The first winning attribute of the Tom Bihn Ristretto was the messenger bag style. When I’m traveling, I like to carry my computer bag across the body for maximum security, as well as keep my hands free.

The second winning attribute was the durability and weight. By the tag, I guess it’s the Dyneema fabric, “the strongest and lightest fiber in the world.” I have no idea if that’s true, but it feels like it’s a contender. And add in the fun/hip color combinations (I got mine in olive/cayenne) and I literally let out an “ohhh,” when I opened the box.

The reason I wasn’t really keen about taking my previous laptop bag on the road, was that there was really very little room for other things besides the laptop and say, a magazine and power cord. Not so, with the Ristretto. I packed it with:
• My MacBook Air
• Mac powercord
• Additional cord for iPod
• iPod and headphones
• Kindle in case
• Kindle powercord
• Magazine
• Small book
• Pens
And I STILL had room for more. This baby could take my passport, and travel notebook too.

But that’s not it. (And yes, Tom Bihn graciously sent me this bag for review, but I love it so much that, shhh, I’m thinking about ordering my teen one for her MacBook 13”—which fits perfectly in it too. She has a birthday coming up.) But anyway, as I was saying, here are some other cool features:
• One zipped exterior pocket with two interior pockets and pen slots
• Exterior zipped pocket has extra security of the outer flap coming over and snapping shut, so it’d be a perfect passport/wallet pocket
• Interior foam guard that folds over top of laptop to keep it from harm (back and bottom are foam-lined)
• Additional room in that main compartment, which is bigger than the laptop
• Two o-rings on which you can attach organizer bags that they (shocker) also sell
• One key-ring/strap
• Open, slanted back pocket for quick-stows
• Waist strap for additional security while running through an airport or on a bike
• Handle at top to grab and go

The Ristretto comes with a traditional messenger bag strap, but please, do yourself a favor and order the Absolute Shoulder Strap. It’s beyond fab. The part that covers your shoulder is in a comfy scuba-suit sort of material that gives and relieves stress, even when your Ristretto is fully loaded. And it’s long enough to work for me—a 5’10”, long-torso-type woman. (But it can be significantly shortened if you’re of the more petite variety.)

If you’re trying to engage your kids in the ancient ruins of Rome, they’ll likely gravitate to the Coliseum over the Forum. It’s simply easier for them to visualize it in antiquity, since more of it remains. In the same way, they’ll likely love the twenty-seat lavatory, fast food restaurant, bakery, theater and marketplace of Ostia Antica.

Given that it was once buried by centuries of mud from the flooding river, Ostia Antica remains one of the best examples of an ancient Roman town, complete with intricate mosaics and the oldest synagogue in Europe. It’s not quite as stunning as Pompeii, given that its demise was more gradual, but it’s still amazing.

Emma (13) and I took the twenty-five minute train ride with our Context guide, the lovely and informative Livia Galante (whose specialty is Roman topography), and three others. Our goal was to see the ancient city port on the Mediterranean, a site that attracts far fewer than its more popular cousin, Pompeii, and with the advantage that it’s much closer (25 minutes vs. 3 hours). Livia utilized the time on the train to give us a little information on what we were about to see. In Imperial times, Ostia had been the principal commercial port and military outpost for Rome. At its peak, it had a population of about 100,000, and survived the competition of another port town (cleverly named Portus) just to the north. But between the gradual silting up of the harbor, endemic malaria, and the waning of trade, the city was eventually abandoned.

Once on site, we spent time exploring the sarcophagi and burial chambers outside of town, then walked along the wide, still-intact Roman road until we could enter the vast Baths of Neptune, with their startling black-and-white mosaics. Down below, Livia led us into what was once the furnaces that heated water for the baths, and we learned that wood was one of the principal imported items through Ostia.

We moved on to the lovely theatre, through big, tufa stone arches. Underneath, there once had been market stalls, taverns and shops. But my favorite stop was just beyond the theater and temple: the Piazzale delle Corporazioni. This market square once represented the various guilds of merchants associated with outfitting ships and handling traded goods. One example was the wood guild—responsible for heating villas throughout the city and the massive Baths of Caracalla—they alone had over 60 ships.

Here, there were also offices for ship owners (or their representatives), for people from as far away as Tunisia, France, Sardinia and Egypt. If you go, look for the elephant, representative of his N. African roots. Other goods represented among the mosaic symbols are merchants trading rope, grain, timber, corn, and fish. Fascinating!

Livia led us on to explore the neighborhood beyond, from insulae, or apartments, to grand domus, or detached homes, some with their own lovely mosaic floors and baths. We loved the massive grinding stones within the bakery, as well as the buried storage pots. We saw several Mithraic temples, but there is also a Christian basilica and a first century Jewish temple on the site—reportedly, the oldest in Europe.

Note: You can incorporate a visit to the Jewish temple on a private walk, but due to its location, it’s not typically a part of the small group itinerary. (If it’s important to you, let Context know you’d like to see it when you reserve a private tour, so they can alert your guide. Or spend an extra hour after your small group tour ends to go see it on your own).

Will you think me shallow if I tell you the communal toilet was a highlight? Especially if you’re traveling with kids…Emma and I’ll never think of public bathrooms in the same way again. Apparently, it was a place of business, in more ways than one. (Sorry. Couldn’t resist.)

Although the Tiber River’s course has changed considerably since Ostia’s heyday, you can still feel and smell the water on the breeze. Much of the site remains buried beneath the mud, grass, trees and shrubs that have covered it for centuries, awaiting proper funding and excavation. Livia mused that she was glad they remained that way; they’re far more protected under nature’s covering than they are by a strapped Italian budget. The result is a walk back toward the train station through rolling green hills, whispering of tantalizing archeological secrets, just waiting to be discovered.

Tired of the heat, concrete and noise of the city? Ostia Antica is a welcome respite, and the perfect day tour, much like our trip to Tivoli was.

Notes:

• This Context tour is currently 85 Euro pp, plus incidentals like train ride, lunch and tip for the guide
• Bring sun screen/hat
• Wear comfortable shoes and layers of clothing; it can be cold in the morning, warm in the afternoon
• The tour runs from about 7:30am-3:00pm

Ostia Antica

Our tour was kindly sponsored by Context Travel, but we are huge fans of their organization, and have paid for four other tours out of our own pocket. Just this week, we’ve recommended them to friends soon traveling to Rome. They also have tours tailored for families with younger children. Check them out!

When we first encountered an Italian espresso maker, we were a bit befuddled on how to use it. But once we figured it out, we loved it enough to get one for our home in the USA. Here’s how to use an Italian Bialetti espresso pot, whether you’re lucky enough to be experimenting in Italia, or at home in America.   One word of advice: don’t wash your Bialetti pot with soap and water! Allow it to “season” with coffee flavor. Just rinse after use with hot water and allow it to air dry. Don’t put it in the dishwasher! It will oxidize the aluminum…

Start with good water. Bad water makes bad espresso. Look for the line inside and don’t pass it!

Grind your beans to a very fine grind.

Fill the “funnel” cup about 2/3 full with your ground coffee.

Drop the cup into the water filled bottom container.

Turn the stove burner on high.

Screw the top pot onto the base.

I like to keep the pot at the edge of the burner so the handle stays cool.

The espresso will push up through the center spout. Be sure to have the lid down at the very end of the brew time or you’ll have espresso splattering all over the cooking surface.

I pull the pot off the burner as soon as I hear a louder gurgle in the pot. If you leave it on the burner longer, you may taste a “burned” flavor in your espresso.

Pour and enjoy with a nice biscotti.

Buy a Bialetti stove top espresso maker at Amazon.com

Espresso

If you’re in the Highlands of Scotland – the land of romance, storied history, kilts and bagpipes, Glens and Bens – consider Inverness as your home base for 10 days of exploring Scottish culture, arts, nature, food, and great people.

There is something in Inverness for any family – shopping, great food, a thriving music scene, arts events, history, culture – it is truly the capital of the Highlands. There are castles, a beautiful river, gourmet restaurants galore, and Loch Ness itself…truly something for every traveler. And, Inverness is perfectly located to explore the rest of the Highlands – only a short and scenic drive away.

Where to Stay

For lodging, I’d suggest either renting a home or staying at a B&B. We rented a home on Loch Ness, Inverfarigaig Cottage. It is located about 20 minutes southwest of Inverness – a beautiful location, with a private beach on the southern side Loch Ness and a great yard for playing (that is, if it isn’t raining). If you’d like to stay in a B&B, I’d suggest the B&B run by George and Ishbel Strachan. It’s located in Glen Affric, an extremely scenic location and 40 minute drive from Inverness (on the northern side of Loch Ness). We first learned about George and Ishbel from Scottish Musician Sarah-Jane Summers, who shared her top tips for the Inverness area with us!

Things to Do Near Inverness

Inverness is located in the Highlands of Scotland, on the eastern side of the country.  It is located on the water, and also boasts a river, which connects the ocean with Loch Ness.  Here are my top tips for exploring the area around Loch Ness:

HISTORY: Any visit to the highlands is not complete without going to the Culloden Visitor Centre.  Culloden is the site of the battle that changed the course of Scottish, British – well, truly, world history. On April 16, 1746, the Jacobite army fought the British army to reclaim the throne of Britain for Bonnie Prince Charlie. It was an incredibly uneven battle, in which the Jacobites weren’t fully prepared, and were starving and cold. A surprise night attack plan failed, and in the day, the exhausted Jacobite soldiers surged to their death.

In 2007, the National Trust for Scotland opened the Culloden Battlefield Visitor Centre – an extraordinary multimedia experience about the battle.  This was the most powerful thing we did or learned in Scotland. Our 8-year-old daughter didn’t want to leave – we closed the place down.

Just down the road, check out Clava Cairns – bronze age stone burial chambers, where you can clamber about on the stones and BE in history.

CASTLES: Besides Inverness Castle and the aforementioned Urquhart Castle, head to Cawdor Castle. It’s one of the most visited castles in Scotland, because of the Shakespeare connection (MacBeth – I mean, The Scottish Play). And, the Cawdor family still calls it home.

DOLPHIN WATCHING: Definitely a hidden treasure! The Wildlife and Conservation Society’s Dolphin and Seal Centre is located across the bridge, in North Kessock. You can watch for dolphins, learn about dolphins, follow the dolphin trail, and even hear whistles and clicks through their underwater microphones. It is FREE! We also drove out to Chanonry Point, across from Fort George, for dolphin watching. There’s a lighthouse, a beautiful stone beach, and dolphins cavorting!

HILL WALKING: Scotland is famous for hill walking (hiking). There are survey maps available, plenty of resources online, and the best views in the world. Also make time to see the Falls of Foyers, a huge waterfall located on the southwest shore of Loch Ness.

MUSIC: So vital in Scottish culture! Head to Hootenanny’s for a rollicking good time. Drive to Cromarty on the Black Isle, and catch some music at The Old Brewery.

FOOD: Gourmet food abounds in Inverness. On the shores of Loch Ness, the Dores Inn has good food and great views. In Inverness, we loved the Steak Academy, the Mustard Seed, and the highly recommended River House. I also shopped at Tesco (YUM!) and we cooked many meals at home, exploring Scottish home cuisine and trying new beverages, meat (haggis!), bread, jam, and more.

When to Go

Of course, Scotland is most tourist-friendly in the summer, when the days are longer and the weather is warmer – and there are more events happening. However, you could certainly head there at any time of year – there’s something to enjoy in any season, and it’s always beautiful.

The Perfect 10-Day Itinerary (of course, it all depends on the weather):

Day 1: Explore downtown Inverness, possibly taking in Inverness Castle, but definitely shopping, eating well, and exploring the city.  Did I mention shopping?

Day 2: Head to Culloden. There is a café there, so you can spend as much time as you’d like in the centre and on the battlefield. After you’re finished, head a few miles down the road to Clava Cairns – even with kids running and playing, you probably won’t spend more than 30 minutes there, so it’s a good add-on to Culloden.

Day 3: Drive to Chanonry Point and plan on spending the day at the beach. Bring a picnic, practice throwing rocks (it’s a stone beach), watch for dolphins, and enjoy being outside in such a glorious location!

Day 4: More water goodness – book a boat tour on Loch Ness. Add in a visit to the Loch Ness Exhibition Centre. If there is time, tour Urquhart Castle. Be sure to be on the lookout for Nessie!

Day 5: Free day to explore (or stay home). There’s nothing like reading local papers and watching local tv shows to get a true glimpse of local culture, politics, and more.

Day 6: Time to drive! Head north of Loch Ness and tour Glen Affric. It is FULL of natural beauty.

Day 7: Drive southeast, past Culloden, and tour Cawdor Castle. On your way back into town, stop at Hootenanny’s for some local music.

Day 8: Hike! Be sure to get a good local map (or find a guide), and head out on your own hill walking tour.

Day 9: Drive on the south side of Loch Ness. Dine at the Dores Inn (great fish and chips!). Head further southwest,  and park by the little café/store and hike down to the Falls of Foyers. Incredible views, beautiful waterfall from the River Foyers to Loch Ness. Keep on driving southwest, and head to Fort Augustus. You’ll see the Caledonian Canal – a 60 mile canal which divides the town in half, provides a means for boats to head to Loch Ness, and links Fort William to Inverness.

Day 10: relax, enjoy Inverness, and find some local attractions or restaurants you’ve missed!

Dr. Jessie Voigts is constantly looking for ways to increase intercultural understanding and exploring the world, especially with kids (it’s never too young to start!). She has lived and worked in Japan and London, and traveled around the world. Jessie is the publisher of Wandering Educators, a travel site for global educators. An international community of traveling educators, WanderingEducators.com is a resource for discovering extraordinary travel destinations, fascinating people, and global artists and photographers.

Heading to Rome with kids? Weary of the traffic and crowds? One of the best hours we had in Rome was the hour we rented a riscio in the Borghese Gardens. It truly was one of my teen’s top 3 favorite excursions.

Designed in 1605 for a wealthy cardinal, the Borghese Gardens were the first of its kind in Rome, and remain a public treasure today. We were eager to explore the gardens, but they cover over four square miles (6-km)! There are all kinds of options: The Galleria Borghese, zoo, kiddie rides for small children, hidden temples, an aviary and more.

Canvassing the park, getting a feel for her and what she offers, is a great way to begin your afternoon. And the best way to do that is exploring with the aid of a rented bike or riscio. We found a place to rent bikes in the area called Il Pincio, shown above.

What’s cool about these little trolleys is that they have a winding function, making it easy and fast to move about. It’s far easier than walking! Circumvent the park, then cross it, back and forth, deciding where you’ll return afterward.

From one side, there are terrific views across the city; here, we’re near the Spanish Steps and Via Veneto.

The Gardens: A Welcome Escape

This is one of the places Romans go to escape (think Central Park in NYC). Tons of people head out to stroll and enjoy the kiddie rides, trails, or sunshine filtered by massive trees. And for tourists, it’s a marvelous break from the busyness and noise of the city, as well as a way to fall into the cadence of normal Roman life.

It’s truly a family-oriented park. Teens race in little go-carts, couples make out on the grass, parents chase toddlers, friends stroll and chat. Children weep over lost balloons, sailing into the sky. Others laugh at their friends or stare in amazement at in-line skaters doing tricks. Everyone celebrates being outdoors, free from the confines of the city.

And When You’re Through…

When you’ve returned your riscio, you can walk across this wide, broad, peaceful avenue and visit the Borghese Museum. Parents can hope that after all that good exercise and fresh air, kids just may pay attention to some of the artistic treasures found inside. Mine did.

Things to know:

• Be aware that taxis and buses drop you off in central areas and you have to walk the rest of the way. There is no “direct to the bike rental” stop.
• An hour’s rental gave us enough time to get a feel for the park, but with no long stops. If you want a more leisurely visit, rent it for two.
• Riscios are officially for two or four people (“posti”), but we saw families of 6 with little ones perched in the front! The rules, at least when we were there, were fairly lax.
• The wind-up function is a little wild. It really makes you GO! To avoid accidents, practice peddling, relaxing and braking in a non-crowded area.
• Even with teens along, have Mom or Dad try it first so you know the control you’re handing over.
• The park is huge; keep an eye on your watch when you sign out the riscio and make sure you can get back in time.
• I didn’t see a way to “lock up” your bikes, so you pretty much have to have someone stay with it at all times. It feels like the kind of place a prankster-teen might choose to take your rental for a joy ride.

Been to the Borghese Gardens? What was your favorite part?

After a long, hard day of skiing or playing at Keystone, there’s nothing like coming back for a quick shower and then heading out for a casually elegant dinner at Bighorn Steakhouse, in the Keystone Lodge, overlooking Keystone Lake. When you make reservations (970.496.4386), ask for one of the tables by the window. You can watch the ice skaters and hockey players, as well as see the mountains beyond.

If it’s the holidays, on your way to the restaurant, check out the fantastic, Christmas chocolate village display, which took 3000 hours to build, utlized 5000 lbs. of chocolate (including a 792 lb. white Belgian chocolate tree) and features a moving gondola and chocolate waterfall. (It’s preserved and will return 2012-2013!)

And downstairs, just outside, by the lake, you can might an impressive ice sculpture display like we did, complete with an ice bar and Santa’s sleigh and reindeer. It made me wish we’d spent Christmas and New Year’s at Keystone!

The Restaurant

But I digress. This is a story about the delicious dinner we had at the Bighorn Steakhouse. As we entered, couples spoke in hushed tones, holding hands. A massive table behind us held a three-generation table of fourteen. Adult friends laughed around a table for four. See it in your mind? It’s a restaurant appropriate for all.

The Children’s Menu at Bighorn Steakhouse

The Bighorn Children’s Menu ($9.95) offers a choice of Chicken, Beef Kabob, Penne Pasta with Tomato Pesto, Cheeseburgers, or Chicken Fingers, and includes soup or salad and a drink. They can score a dessert sundae for an additional $1.95. Screaming. Deal.

The Main Menu at Bighorn Steakhouse

But even my youngest only had eyes for the adult menu. Our waiter—Dominic, a man who came to ski and stayed for nine years—recommended we start with Caramelized Colorado Goat Cheese (Serious Yum) and Crispi Calamari (pretty good). Who were we to argue?

We moved on to the lovely, light Bighorn Salad, with young organic greens, tomatoes and sage vinaigrette; others had the Alpine Salad with butter lettuce, apples, candied walnuts and blue cheese dressing.

On Dom’s suggestion, we picked a Wild Horse cab from Paso Robles (“Delicious”) to go along with Tim’s New York Strip with a cabernet butter and garlic mashed potatoes (“Loved”) and my Filet Oscar with asparagus, lump crab and béarnaise sauce (“Really good”).

The kids chose Fish n’ Chips (“pretty good, but a little bland”), Lobster Mac ‘n’ Cheese (“incredible”—and it was—huge pieces of lobster!), and the Pasta Purse, pockets filled with spinach and ricotta cheese (“good”).

Stuffed, we soldiered on, for you, our readers—what won’t we do for you???—ordering Crème Brulee (“lovely”), a stacked chocolate cake with mousse (“fabulous”) and a trio of sorbets that reminded Emma of Italy (“excellent”).

Totally sated, we chatted with Dom about skiing—his favorites: “Vail for powder, Beaver Creek for powder on the weekend, A-Basin when it’s sunny, and Keystone, always,” and wound our way out of the restaurant as couples kissed, friends laughed, and great-big families toasted to a great day together, regardless of the lack of snow. (That was in early January. Now? They have plenty.)

Bighorn Steakhouse? Definitely recommended.

Full Disclosure: Our dinner at Bighorn was kindly compensated by Keystone Resort. We’d go back on our own dime, next time we’re there. But maybe not for four courses, unless it’s just Tim and me! Or we’ll encourage the kids to order from that fab kids’ menu…

After a while, it takes a bit to differentiate between ski resorts. A vital element, of course, is the number and variety of slopes the slopes and lifts, but the vibe and what we term “extracurriculars”—what a resort offers, beyond skiing—also contribute to a resort’s vibe.

We found Keystone to be laid back and casual, representing well for those of us who are still middle-class skiers, trying to find an affordable vacation for our families. And we absolutely loved the “extras” that Keystone offers, making it uniquely fun. Here are some of them…

Kidtopia

Even my bigger kids adored the massive kidtopia snow fort at the top of the Dercum Mountain at Adventure Point, which took a five-person team ten days to build, using everything from pick axes to chainsaws. The snow fort includes an ice throne, a climbing wall, a tunnel/slide and fortress-like walls. It sits right beside the tubing hill and they usually keep it open into March (with close supervision on structural integrity).

Tubing with Lift

Given my hubby’s back issues, we were antsy for him to try this excursion on for size, but the kids (16, 13, 8 ) happily leaped into tubes and got in line for one of the five separate runs. Music loops and the operators seem to really love their job, chatting and joking around with the customers. (One said to my kid: “Last day of Christmas vacation for you, huh? Bummer.” *sent him spinning down hill * Then, to me, “First day of mom vacation comin’ right up for you, huh?”)

In our one-hour allotment, we got plenty of runs in and happily, one run was smooth enough for my husband’s temperamental back to tolerate. I asked if anyone ever tips over—they said only if you drop your heels and dig in (so keep ‘em up!) We had a blast!

Notes:

• Minimum height: 42”
• $31.00/pp
• Make reservations well in advance (they fill up); it’s nice to schedule it at the end of your day of skiing
• Ditch the ski boots at the bottom of the hill, before you ride the gondola up to tube and explore the snow fort. You can’t group-up in 2’s, 3’s, or 4’s if you have ski boots on—plus it just makes it harder/less enjoyable. Trust me; we did it in ski boots so we could ski down afterward, but we regret it. Next time: Uggs.

Snowbiking

I stopped a European couple I’d seen riding these snow bikes all afternoon. They come to Keystone, especially for the $25 rentals, and the freedom to ride them all day (once you’re certified). To their knowledge, no other resort allows you to ride them without escort. My kids were drooling with envy…Check in at the office beside the River Run gondola to find out more. Minimum age: 13

Largest Zamboni-Maintained Outdoor Skating Rink in N. America

Our lodging was right on Keystone Lake, and we loved the people-watching opps provided by the ice outside our window. We awoke to the Zamboni smoothing out the ice, and observed as the last, stalwart hockey players called out their goodnights around 9pm, their breath clouding before their faces. Parents hauled little ones in sleds behind them. Amateurs tried their best at double-axels. Teens laughed and clung to each other. There’s a tremendous spirit of fun about it all.

You check in on the far side of the lake for skate rentals ($11/$9/$7). Wear ski socks and ask about their metal “walkers” that you can take out onto the ice—particularly helpful for parents not too keen on the idea of taking a spill.

Our time on the ice was way more fun than a traditional rink and definitely worth your time. How often do kids get a chance to ice skate outside? Not much, even in my neck of the Colorado woods.

EpicMix

This is super-cool! The EpicMix passes you carry at Keystone (and other Vail Resorts) are in your pocket and lift operators scan your pocket to read them (buh-bye, dangling tickets). But they also track your whereabouts—how many lifts you ride, how many runs you take. In addition, photographers on the mountain snap your pics, and they are automatically added to your “account.” Uber-cutting edge resort technology, in our opinion.

Next Time: Sleigh Ride Dinner

The sleigh ride dinners are supposed to be really fun; next time we go to Keystone, we want to check it out. (This time we were a little lean on snow, so I didn’t think we’d have the full “experience.”) You get a ride to a homestead, where a team makes a traditional “cowboy meal,” complete with a bonfire, live music and sing-alongs.

Disclosure: Our stay and play time at Keystone was graciously covered by the resort, but we’d return on our own dime. It was that great.

When Emma and I checked into our historic district apartment, the manager kindly encouraged us to head over to Campo de’ Fiori to market. We loved our frequent forays over to the quaint piazza, that once was dominated by flower merchants, but now divides space between touristy t-shirts, vast fruit and vegetable stands, spices, pottery, linens and more.

Motorbikes are not allowed in the square, and when they come through, the merchants and people turn as one to shout at them, laughter behind their eyes. Some vendors are ready to negotiate (not the fruit and vegetable stand owners), so slip on your hard-bargainer tunic and be ready to walk away if you have a final price in mind. On the north side, don’t miss the fantastic bakery and sandwich shop–an inexpensive way to eat in expensive Roma. Grab your food and head west, to find a seat in the picturesque (and much quieter) Piazza Farnese, in which you can munch your lunch. Or stock up on produce and head back to your local apartment to cook for yourselves, as we did.

Here are some photos to whet your appetite…

Emma and I loved our stay in “Sinibaldi A,” a 4^th floor apartment of a 15^th century palazzo, in the historic center of Rome.

It was a perfect little spot. And since this was my third time in Rome, I adored that it was quiet. Rome is a bustling city, and given Sinibaldi’s location—just a few blocks from Piazza Navona, the Pantheon (above), and Campo de’ Fiori—it’s amazingly quiet. What’s beautiful is that you’re near a convenient taxi stand at Teatro Alexandria (2 minute walk), and within walking distance of so much. So. Much. Right next door is an amazing grocery store. A few blocks away Campo de’ Fiori, so you can go there to market. A highly-rated pizzeria is a ten minute walk away. Gelato abounds (see our Gelato Map)!

Blissfully Quiet, Perfect Location

And yet, even though traffic along Vittorio Emanuele could make it noisy, because the building is tucked around the curve of a side street, and with the apartment’s placement on the 4^th floor, and given how it backs up to form a “courtyard” with three other buildings, it’s blessedly quiet. After a long day of touring, it was bliss to return to such a quiet spot.

Note: Some in the guestbook said they loved sitting on the little deck; we felt it was a little conspicuous. Still, it was fun catching glimpses of nuns working on a vine-covered deck, a Roman enjoying a morning cigarette, a child at play, a woman hanging clothes on a line. It felt very neighborhood-y in the mist of what could otherwise be an Extreme Tourism Zone.

Things to Know

• There is no elevator/lift. Climbing that many stairs at the end of the day was a little taxing. But helped us justify the gelato.
• The kitchen was adequately stocked with utensils and pots. There’s a small refrigerator, dishwasher (bonus!), and a clothes washer too.
• The Internet signal was strong, and we could Skype family at home with ease. When we lost the signal, the manager showed us how to unplug and replug them—just right down the stairs in the hall closet. Since that was our one mode of communication, it was great to have good access.
• The air conditioning units were very efficient.
• The “pull out sofa” was little more than a pretty hard foam mattress; I’d only put a younger child on it.
• The bathroom was spacious, but the shower needed work. It was riddled with mold and had some broken tiles. Prepare yourself for imperfection.
• The master bedroom was a nice size, and the bed was extremely comfortable.
• At the time of reservation, we were lusting after one of the other apartments right beside this one, on the same floor, with a view across the street of an old church, but this was the only one available on our dates. Now, it appears the other two are not even listed at www.rentalinrome.com. When we were there, they were working on the stairwell, refurbishing it; perhaps they’re working on those two too? If they come available when you’re looking, check them out too.

All in all, we’d happily return to this apartment because of its location, price (about $200 a night in high season, $125 in low season).

What about you? Found a place you adore to stay in Rome? Please share in the comments!

I adore graphics-rich guide books for adults. Lots of pictures, lots of quick, intriguing info in bite-sized pieces. And I’m an adult.

I also love books about foreign places for kids. As a traveling mom, I’m constantly on the lookout for ways to get my children thinking about where we’re going—before, during and after we’re there. They get so much more out of our travels when I’m successful on this front.

Enter a lovely solution…Lonely Planet’s Not-for-Parents series. The kind LP folks sent me a copy of ROME: Everything You Ever Wanted to Know, since Emma and I just got back from the Eternal City and I thought it’d be a good one for me to review…to see if I felt like it hit the target. And it did.

This is the PERFECT book for 8-12 year olds, but my teens have been paging through it too. Heck, I read the whole thing last night, cover to cover. And I was delighted. Things I think that will draw in your tween reader:

• Trivia tidbits: Ex. Would you want to go to the bathroom with dozens of other people? And use a sponge on a stick to wipe? (Gross.)
• Engaging, basic info: Ex. Connecting “Trompe l’oeil” (illusionism) to contemporary magic and helping readers identify it in famous locations throughout Rome
• Beautiful, full-color layout: Utilizing classic images, photographs, architectural diagrams, illustration and graphics
• Humor: Cute little cartoons and thought balloons will elicit a chuckle, always a win with kids

Bottom line: If my kids remembered 10% of what’s in this book after a trip to Rome, I’d be happy. And they’d likely learn it in a way that wouldn’t be me, making them do so. I wish we’d had this book pre-trip. I would’ve had Emma read it on the way over  on the plane (it wouldn’t be much of a chore). And then I would’ve had her look up relevant pages prior to the day’s touring and read them to me. It would’ve been awesome. Next time…

Other books in the series: London, New York, Paris and The Travel Book. More are in the works—lucky us!