After a long, hard day of skiing or playing at Keystone, there’s nothing like coming back for a quick shower and then heading out for a casually elegant dinner at Bighorn Steakhouse, in the Keystone Lodge, overlooking Keystone Lake. When you make reservations (970.496.4386), ask for one of the tables by the window. You can watch the ice skaters and hockey players, as well as see the mountains beyond.

If it’s the holidays, on your way to the restaurant, check out the fantastic, Christmas chocolate village display, which took 3000 hours to build, utlized 5000 lbs. of chocolate (including a 792 lb. white Belgian chocolate tree) and features a moving gondola and chocolate waterfall. (It’s preserved and will return 2012-2013!)

And downstairs, just outside, by the lake, you can might an impressive ice sculpture display like we did, complete with an ice bar and Santa’s sleigh and reindeer. It made me wish we’d spent Christmas and New Year’s at Keystone!

The Restaurant

But I digress. This is a story about the delicious dinner we had at the Bighorn Steakhouse. As we entered, couples spoke in hushed tones, holding hands. A massive table behind us held a three-generation table of fourteen. Adult friends laughed around a table for four. See it in your mind? It’s a restaurant appropriate for all.

The Children’s Menu at Bighorn Steakhouse

The Bighorn Children’s Menu ($9.95) offers a choice of Chicken, Beef Kabob, Penne Pasta with Tomato Pesto, Cheeseburgers, or Chicken Fingers, and includes soup or salad and a drink. They can score a dessert sundae for an additional $1.95. Screaming. Deal.

The Main Menu at Bighorn Steakhouse

But even my youngest only had eyes for the adult menu. Our waiter—Dominic, a man who came to ski and stayed for nine years—recommended we start with Caramelized Colorado Goat Cheese (Serious Yum) and Crispi Calamari (pretty good). Who were we to argue?

We moved on to the lovely, light Bighorn Salad, with young organic greens, tomatoes and sage vinaigrette; others had the Alpine Salad with butter lettuce, apples, candied walnuts and blue cheese dressing.

On Dom’s suggestion, we picked a Wild Horse cab from Paso Robles (“Delicious”) to go along with Tim’s New York Strip with a cabernet butter and garlic mashed potatoes (“Loved”) and my Filet Oscar with asparagus, lump crab and béarnaise sauce (“Really good”).

The kids chose Fish n’ Chips (“pretty good, but a little bland”), Lobster Mac ‘n’ Cheese (“incredible”—and it was—huge pieces of lobster!), and the Pasta Purse, pockets filled with spinach and ricotta cheese (“good”).

Stuffed, we soldiered on, for you, our readers—what won’t we do for you???—ordering Crème Brulee (“lovely”), a stacked chocolate cake with mousse (“fabulous”) and a trio of sorbets that reminded Emma of Italy (“excellent”).

Totally sated, we chatted with Dom about skiing—his favorites: “Vail for powder, Beaver Creek for powder on the weekend, A-Basin when it’s sunny, and Keystone, always,” and wound our way out of the restaurant as couples kissed, friends laughed, and great-big families toasted to a great day together, regardless of the lack of snow. (That was in early January. Now? They have plenty.)

Bighorn Steakhouse? Definitely recommended.

Full Disclosure: Our dinner at Bighorn was kindly compensated by Keystone Resort. We’d go back on our own dime, next time we’re there. But maybe not for four courses, unless it’s just Tim and me! Or we’ll encourage the kids to order from that fab kids’ menu…

After a while, it takes a bit to differentiate between ski resorts. A vital element, of course, is the number and variety of slopes the slopes and lifts, but the vibe and what we term “extracurriculars”—what a resort offers, beyond skiing—also contribute to a resort’s vibe.

We found Keystone to be laid back and casual, representing well for those of us who are still middle-class skiers, trying to find an affordable vacation for our families. And we absolutely loved the “extras” that Keystone offers, making it uniquely fun. Here are some of them…

Kidtopia

Even my bigger kids adored the massive kidtopia snow fort at the top of the Dercum Mountain at Adventure Point, which took a five-person team ten days to build, using everything from pick axes to chainsaws. The snow fort includes an ice throne, a climbing wall, a tunnel/slide and fortress-like walls. It sits right beside the tubing hill and they usually keep it open into March (with close supervision on structural integrity).

Tubing with Lift

Given my hubby’s back issues, we were antsy for him to try this excursion on for size, but the kids (16, 13, 8 ) happily leaped into tubes and got in line for one of the five separate runs. Music loops and the operators seem to really love their job, chatting and joking around with the customers. (One said to my kid: “Last day of Christmas vacation for you, huh? Bummer.” *sent him spinning down hill * Then, to me, “First day of mom vacation comin’ right up for you, huh?”)

In our one-hour allotment, we got plenty of runs in and happily, one run was smooth enough for my husband’s temperamental back to tolerate. I asked if anyone ever tips over—they said only if you drop your heels and dig in (so keep ‘em up!) We had a blast!

Notes:

• Minimum height: 42”
• $31.00/pp
• Make reservations well in advance (they fill up); it’s nice to schedule it at the end of your day of skiing
• Ditch the ski boots at the bottom of the hill, before you ride the gondola up to tube and explore the snow fort. You can’t group-up in 2’s, 3’s, or 4’s if you have ski boots on—plus it just makes it harder/less enjoyable. Trust me; we did it in ski boots so we could ski down afterward, but we regret it. Next time: Uggs.

Snowbiking

I stopped a European couple I’d seen riding these snow bikes all afternoon. They come to Keystone, especially for the $25 rentals, and the freedom to ride them all day (once you’re certified). To their knowledge, no other resort allows you to ride them without escort. My kids were drooling with envy…Check in at the office beside the River Run gondola to find out more. Minimum age: 13

Largest Zamboni-Maintained Outdoor Skating Rink in N. America

Our lodging was right on Keystone Lake, and we loved the people-watching opps provided by the ice outside our window. We awoke to the Zamboni smoothing out the ice, and observed as the last, stalwart hockey players called out their goodnights around 9pm, their breath clouding before their faces. Parents hauled little ones in sleds behind them. Amateurs tried their best at double-axels. Teens laughed and clung to each other. There’s a tremendous spirit of fun about it all.

You check in on the far side of the lake for skate rentals ($11/$9/$7). Wear ski socks and ask about their metal “walkers” that you can take out onto the ice—particularly helpful for parents not too keen on the idea of taking a spill.

Our time on the ice was way more fun than a traditional rink and definitely worth your time. How often do kids get a chance to ice skate outside? Not much, even in my neck of the Colorado woods.

EpicMix

This is super-cool! The EpicMix passes you carry at Keystone (and other Vail Resorts) are in your pocket and lift operators scan your pocket to read them (buh-bye, dangling tickets). But they also track your whereabouts—how many lifts you ride, how many runs you take. In addition, photographers on the mountain snap your pics, and they are automatically added to your “account.” Uber-cutting edge resort technology, in our opinion.

Next Time: Sleigh Ride Dinner

The sleigh ride dinners are supposed to be really fun; next time we go to Keystone, we want to check it out. (This time we were a little lean on snow, so I didn’t think we’d have the full “experience.”) You get a ride to a homestead, where a team makes a traditional “cowboy meal,” complete with a bonfire, live music and sing-alongs.

Disclosure: Our stay and play time at Keystone was graciously covered by the resort, but we’d return on our own dime. It was that great.

When Emma and I checked into our historic district apartment, the manager kindly encouraged us to head over to Campo de’ Fiori to market. We loved our frequent forays over to the quaint piazza, that once was dominated by flower merchants, but now divides space between touristy t-shirts, vast fruit and vegetable stands, spices, pottery, linens and more.

Motorbikes are not allowed in the square, and when they come through, the merchants and people turn as one to shout at them, laughter behind their eyes. Some vendors are ready to negotiate (not the fruit and vegetable stand owners), so slip on your hard-bargainer tunic and be ready to walk away if you have a final price in mind. On the north side, don’t miss the fantastic bakery and sandwich shop–an inexpensive way to eat in expensive Roma. Grab your food and head west, to find a seat in the picturesque (and much quieter) Piazza Farnese, in which you can munch your lunch. Or stock up on produce and head back to your local apartment to cook for yourselves, as we did.

Here are some photos to whet your appetite…

Emma and I loved our stay in “Sinibaldi A,” a 4^th floor apartment of a 15^th century palazzo, in the historic center of Rome.

It was a perfect little spot. And since this was my third time in Rome, I adored that it was quiet. Rome is a bustling city, and given Sinibaldi’s location—just a few blocks from Piazza Navona, the Pantheon (above), and Campo de’ Fiori—it’s amazingly quiet. What’s beautiful is that you’re near a convenient taxi stand at Teatro Alexandria (2 minute walk), and within walking distance of so much. So. Much. Right next door is an amazing grocery store. A few blocks away Campo de’ Fiori, so you can go there to market. A highly-rated pizzeria is a ten minute walk away. Gelato abounds (see our Gelato Map)!

Blissfully Quiet, Perfect Location

And yet, even though traffic along Vittorio Emanuele could make it noisy, because the building is tucked around the curve of a side street, and with the apartment’s placement on the 4^th floor, and given how it backs up to form a “courtyard” with three other buildings, it’s blessedly quiet. After a long day of touring, it was bliss to return to such a quiet spot.

Note: Some in the guestbook said they loved sitting on the little deck; we felt it was a little conspicuous. Still, it was fun catching glimpses of nuns working on a vine-covered deck, a Roman enjoying a morning cigarette, a child at play, a woman hanging clothes on a line. It felt very neighborhood-y in the mist of what could otherwise be an Extreme Tourism Zone.

Things to Know

• There is no elevator/lift. Climbing that many stairs at the end of the day was a little taxing. But helped us justify the gelato.
• The kitchen was adequately stocked with utensils and pots. There’s a small refrigerator, dishwasher (bonus!), and a clothes washer too.
• The Internet signal was strong, and we could Skype family at home with ease. When we lost the signal, the manager showed us how to unplug and replug them—just right down the stairs in the hall closet. Since that was our one mode of communication, it was great to have good access.
• The air conditioning units were very efficient.
• The “pull out sofa” was little more than a pretty hard foam mattress; I’d only put a younger child on it.
• The bathroom was spacious, but the shower needed work. It was riddled with mold and had some broken tiles. Prepare yourself for imperfection.
• The master bedroom was a nice size, and the bed was extremely comfortable.
• At the time of reservation, we were lusting after one of the other apartments right beside this one, on the same floor, with a view across the street of an old church, but this was the only one available on our dates. Now, it appears the other two are not even listed at www.rentalinrome.com. When we were there, they were working on the stairwell, refurbishing it; perhaps they’re working on those two too? If they come available when you’re looking, check them out too.

All in all, we’d happily return to this apartment because of its location, price (about $200 a night in high season, $125 in low season).

What about you? Found a place you adore to stay in Rome? Please share in the comments!

I adore graphics-rich guide books for adults. Lots of pictures, lots of quick, intriguing info in bite-sized pieces. And I’m an adult.

I also love books about foreign places for kids. As a traveling mom, I’m constantly on the lookout for ways to get my children thinking about where we’re going—before, during and after we’re there. They get so much more out of our travels when I’m successful on this front.

Enter a lovely solution…Lonely Planet’s Not-for-Parents series. The kind LP folks sent me a copy of ROME: Everything You Ever Wanted to Know, since Emma and I just got back from the Eternal City and I thought it’d be a good one for me to review…to see if I felt like it hit the target. And it did.

This is the PERFECT book for 8-12 year olds, but my teens have been paging through it too. Heck, I read the whole thing last night, cover to cover. And I was delighted. Things I think that will draw in your tween reader:

• Trivia tidbits: Ex. Would you want to go to the bathroom with dozens of other people? And use a sponge on a stick to wipe? (Gross.)
• Engaging, basic info: Ex. Connecting “Trompe l’oeil” (illusionism) to contemporary magic and helping readers identify it in famous locations throughout Rome
• Beautiful, full-color layout: Utilizing classic images, photographs, architectural diagrams, illustration and graphics
• Humor: Cute little cartoons and thought balloons will elicit a chuckle, always a win with kids

Bottom line: If my kids remembered 10% of what’s in this book after a trip to Rome, I’d be happy. And they’d likely learn it in a way that wouldn’t be me, making them do so. I wish we’d had this book pre-trip. I would’ve had Emma read it on the way over  on the plane (it wouldn’t be much of a chore). And then I would’ve had her look up relevant pages prior to the day’s touring and read them to me. It would’ve been awesome. Next time…

Other books in the series: London, New York, Paris and The Travel Book. More are in the works—lucky us!

When we found out we were heading to Texas for Thanksgiving, I immediately put this charge to my cousin-in-law: Please find the best place for barbeque in Dallas. Joe is a fabulous BBQ master himself and his standards are high, since he used to compete with his buddies in Memphis. And he did not disappoint me. He asked around and decided to take us to North Main BBQ in Euless, TX. (Thanks, Joe!)

So, the day after Thanksgiving, we headed north, eagerly anticipating melt-in-your-mouth, savory pork and beef options. And boy, did they surpass our expectations. As soon as you enter, you see the cafeteria-style line, where cooks continuously cut ribs, slice brisket and chop pork to make room for more. For $15 adults/$8 kids, you can eat all you wish (“We don’t weigh you comin’ in, and we don’t weigh you going out,” said one as I returned for Round 2). Sandwiches with sides are available too, but really, why? You want to come to this joint hungry. In addition to the fabulous smoked meats, the meal deal includes coleslaw, potato salad, ranch beans, sandwich bread, a soda fountain drink/tea, as well as a soft serve ice cream cone (if you have any room left).

It all started years ago, when the owner’s sons used to BBQ for workers in the auto repair yard out back. “The public started smelling the smoke and following their noses around to us, and it all really began,” says one. We can see why the public found them, and kept hounding them until they opened up a proper restaurant; if I lived nearby, I’d want a monthly dose of these delicious meats, smoked for four to twelve hours.

Nowadays, one brother tours and competes for further fame and prizes in the the BBQ world, hauling along a giant barbeque in the shape of an armadillo, while the other works in the tech industry M-F and swings some shifts here at the restaurant on weekends too. NOTE: North Main is only open Friday-Saturday 11-9, Sunday 11-4.

There’s nothing high-brow about this place. People eat family-style at long, plastic-covered tables with rolls of paper towels between them. It’s BYOB if you’re interested in beer or wine (no corkage) and there are plastic vats of sweet tea for those who don’t imbibe. But we loved the casual, laid-back atmosphere, the insider-feel of finding such fine food in such a ramshackle joint. We could see why other judges had given them the “Best Ribs in the World” moniker and a Food Network Star named their brisket in an episode of “The Best Thing I Ever Ate.” Because just writing this makes me salivate so much, I want to hop in the car and head back south to Texas for just a little more…

North Main BBQ serves pork ribs, beef brisket, pulled pork, chicken and sausage as their meat staples. They get their sausage from a local provider. It’s all delicious, but we thought the first three were the finest contributions to our very full bellies.

So if you’re heading to Dallas, or even just have a long stopover at DFW on a weekend, check out North Main BBQ. It’s located about three miles west of DFW on Hwy 183.

Been there? Or have another favorite BBQ joint in Dallas? Please comment below!

From the constant hum of the cicadas to the swirling strains of country and blues, Nashville has a soundtrack for any experience.

My wife and I decided it was time for a getaway without the kids, and Nashville seemed to be an ideal spot with its mix of history, culture, and excitement. We chose the long Memorial Day weekend for a 4 day stay.

Despite a weather related hold-over in Dallas, we landed in a newly updated Nashville International Airport and found it was easy to navigate. We dropped our luggage off at the hotel and dashed off to make up for lost time.

The first stop was the Hermitage, the home of President Andrew Jackson. The visitor center opens with a short film about his life, and guests are fitted with audio tour headsets for more information throughout the grounds. The grounds are self-guided except the main house. The guides are dressed in period costume, and are very knowledgeable about the former President and his family. He’s a complicated man as many of our early leaders were, and the tour discusses his failings (such as owning slaves) in a fair way.

The grounds also house several other buildings such as a smokehouse and slave quarters, and a lovely garden with the family cemetery. There’s another house nearby of one of Jackson’s relatives that isn’t really worth the extra $5, but was easy enough to add on for a deeper feel of those times.

Nashville is called “Music City” for a reason. There’s a variety for any taste. I encourage travelers to become fans of their favorite Nashville based artists on Facebook. I found out about an intimate concert by a world-renowned guitarist just before leaving, and managed to score tickets to this event. It was held in the quaint little downtown of Franklin, a 15 minute drive from our airport hotel. It was held in a small café called The Franklin Mercantile, but the delicious dinner belied the humble surroundings. The concert was such a cool experience. Only in Nashville!

There’s a lot to see within walking distance of Broadway and 4^th, the epicenter of Nashville’s downtown. There’s a row of honky-tonk bars with the newest up-and-coming country singer trying to make their mark. Around the corner and up a few blocks, B. B. Kings’ offers some spectacular blues music, but the food didn’t match up with some of the home-grown venues we tried. We toured Union Station, a 19^th century train station converted into a hotel, and Bicentennial Park, the celebration point for Tennessee’s 200 year birthday party.

Even though we’re not big country music fans, we did enjoy the original location for the Grand Ole Opry – the Ryman Auditorium. Built to accommodate a revivalist preacher at the turn of the century, the acoustics of the place are amazing. One can see why it is such a popular performance destination.

We returned to Franklin to visit some Civil War historical sites. The Carnton Plantation is an antebellum house that witnessed the five bloodiest hours of the Civil War and became a battlefield hospital, popularized in the novel Widow of the South. For the squeamish, there are still some blood stains on the hardwood floors, but it is well worth a visit. There is a Confederate cemetery a short walk away, with mostly unmarked graves from the soldiers who fell in the Battle of Franklin. Nearby, the Carter House is another preserved building with a small visitor’s center and numerous bullet holes from the conflict. If one has to make a choice, Carnton Plantation has more to offer. And if you’re looking for a place to eat, Puckett’s in the historic downtown has great Southern cooking.

Our last day took us to west Nashville. In the morning we went to Cheekwood Botanical Gardens. The large park has many walking trails with different gardens or sculptures featured along the way. The trails lead to the Art Museum, where numerous paintings, sculptures, and historical items like fancy china and silverware are displayed. There was a special display of Faberge Eggs and other jewelry designs. The Cheekwood Estate is worth exploring without the art, and the air-conditioning was a welcome relief to the 90+ degree Fahrenheit temperatures.

Our last major stop was the Belle Meade Plantation. Another antebellum plantation, it is fancier and more authentic than the Carnton Plantation. It was a center of horse breeding, and many of the current Kentucky Derby winners trace their lineage through Belle Meade. The tour again has self-led portions with guides for the main house, and the tour ended with optional wine-tasting from the new Belle Meade vineyard.

My wife and I made the most of our limited time, and found Nashville to be a great destination for art, culture, music, and history. We returned home raving about our experience there. Except for the cicadas, but don’t worry – they only come out every thirteen years. We just had good timing.

Jason Joyner, a physician’s assistant and aspiring writer, is always happy to travel to new places or learn about new ideas. You can find more of his writings at Spoiled For The Ordinary and via Twitter (@JasonCJoyner).

After our visit to Hadrian’s Villa (Villa Adriana), we moved up the hill to the Renaissance estate inspired by the crumbling remains, Villa d’ Este. Here, Cardinal Ippolito d’ Este built one of the finest 16^th century villas and gardens ever created, on the site of a Roman villa and beside a Benedictine monastery. It was—and still is—so awe-inspiring, that many European gardens were modeled after it.

With gray clouds, thick with rain, threatening our Context tour, we hurried to visit the gardens before touring the villa. And as we came across fountain after fountain, I was in semi-shock. Our guide, Francesca, told us that the builders had to construct two aqueducts just to give them the water volume such fountains demanded. And one can see why—there is water literally everywhere.

The Best Fountains in All of Italy

Le Cento Fontane (“Hundred Fountains”) showcases rows of sculpted heads, spitting streams of water. There is water streaming down beside staircases. Into pools. Troughs. Over waterfalls. It is, by far, the most inspiring garden incorporating water I’ve ever seen.

“Are these the best garden fountains in all of Italy?” I ask our guide.

She pauses, considers, then with a smile, “Yes.”

They capture my teen as much as me. A childhood favorite read was Burnett’s The Secret Garden. And people, this was the mother of all secret gardens. From 1655-1920, the estate was largely abandoned (with a brief push-back from Cardinal Gustav von Hohenlohe 1823-1826, which probably saved much of it). Trees and shrubs grew in where they did not belong. Aqueducts failed. The creators wanted to tame nature. But during these years, nature showed who was truly boss. The restoration process took place 1920-1930, and I would pay thousands to time travel back to the day when they turned the water on again. It must’ve been miraculous when water poured and fountains surged…I can almost hear their distant cheers.

There’s the Fontana dell’ Ovato: a grotto with statues representing the rivers of Tivoli and a sculpture of Pegasus, cupped by an overgrown arcade with greens that makes you feel like you’ve stumbled into a secret world. I fantasize about walking under the arcade, behind the fountains, as visitors to the villa once did; it must’ve been amazing!

And then there’s the 16th century “water organ” that features a hydraulic-pneumatic technology that might have originated in 1st century Alexandria. We navigate around a fifty-member tour group as they wait for the top of the hour. But the clouds are growing darker, and we move on (glad to not be trapped in a larger group, detained by the Set Schedule); we’re eager to see all we can of the gardens, before we’re driven indoors.

We move down the stairs, past the spectacular Fountain of Neptune, with massive jets shooting water fourteen meters high, bookending a waterfall.

Then we see Rometta (“little Rome”), my favorite because it features a replica of Rome, back in the 16^th Century. Francesca shows us a sketch of what it once looked like, and though only a portion remains, I get another little time-traveler glimpse. Once, there was even a triumphal arch and Hadrian’s Column, in miniature, as well as twice the number of buildings we see now.

Rain comes then, with a fury that makes us think we might be swept on a flood wave, into the fountains. Armed with umbrellas, we make our way in to the café for some lunch, and opt to eat outside under an arched portico alongside other intrepid tourists. People in our party speak of amazing eating establishments in Rome, and rare, coveted bottles of wine. I think about this place where we now sit, the home of rich cardinals who lobbied to be pope, entertaining others—and most likely, with the finest wine available.

We finish our lunch and begin a brief exploration of the palazzo. The exterior is unassuming, at the end of a little piazza, and juts up against the far side of a church. There are grand bedrooms with amazing views of the garden and beyond, the Grand Sala, a public room that features portraits and lush landscapes beyond faux columns. Bedrooms, a chapel and a secret staircase…

If you’re interested in history and would like to see in 3D how those of the Renaissance grabbed hold of the Classical, this is the perfect tour for you.

If you’d like to poke around two thousand year old ruins (Hadrian’s Villa), this is the tour for you.

If the noise and crowds and busyness of Rome is getting to you, this is the tour for you.

Hey, if you just love pretty gardens and amazing fountains, this is the tour for you.

Go and enjoy. You’ll thank me later.

While Context Travel kindly sponsored our day in Tivoli, we’d do it again on our own dime, so that the rest of our family could see it. It was that amazing. Note: Unless you’re hiring a private family guide, I’d recommend this for families with kids 13 and up. Because it’s a day-long tour to both sites, it adds up to a lot of hours of concentration for younger children (but ending in the gardens with the fountains helps them re-engage).

Been to Tivoli or on another Context Tour? Please comment!

Looking for the best gelato in Rome? Ask anyone who’s been to the city and they’ll talk about the historical sites, the wondrous sculpture, the amazing art, the delicious wine and pasta. And then they’ll mention gelato. “The gelato…you gotta have the gelato.” And then they’ll tell you which gelaterie you need to go to…and believe me, they’ll all have different suggestions.

The first couple of times we went to Rome, we stopped at any gelaterie that looked good. The mounds of colorful, icy confections drew us first, like little kids with sticky fingers at the candy shop window. It was like entering a fantasy world of icy deliciousness. But before we went again, we learned that there is good gelato…and then there is fabulous gelato. Given that we had ten days in Rome, we were determined to find some of the best.

Gelato vs. Ice Cream

Gelato is richer and smoother than American ice cream, partially because it’s churned, not whipped, allowing it to remain more dense. And because it’s not as heavy on the sugar and cream, it allows the flavors to dominate. Gelaterie also offer sherbets (sorbetto), just like any ice cream shop in the States, and flavored ices called granite.

But here’s the insider scoop: If a gelaterie advertises they’re a “Gelaterie Artigianale,” they’re probably more dedicated to the craft of making excellent gelato, on the premises. If you’re not near a gelaterie on our TWIC Gelato Map, look for this designation on the shop’s signs. Those who tout the coveted “Associazione Italiana Gelatieri” moniker take it up a notch, and are a part of a strictly regulated and approved group of artisans, creating their delicious dessert using the freshest ingredients possible, and never using artificial colors, flavors or thickeners. So while their shops may not be as visually exciting as their technicolor competitors (some may even be hidden beneath metal covers!), trust me, your taste buds will know the artigianale difference.

Things to Know Before Approaching Your First Gelaterie

• Some gelaterie ask you to pay first, then choose your flavors; watch and see what the other customers are doing
• You choose either copetta (cup) or cona (cone) and size; pointing is okay—they’re used to customers with limited Italian
• Some gelaterie don’t offer cones because they feel it interferes with the flavors (yeah, they can be that fussy); some might refuse to combine certain flavors if they think they won’t go together well—be ready to flex
• They cram as much as they can in the cup; you pay by size, not scoops
• You can choose multiple flavors; up to three is okay; beyond that, you’ll try their patience; warn them how many flavors you want up front if you want equal portions of each one: “Tre gusti” means three flavors.
• “Poi?” Means Next? asking which flavor you want next
• “Con panna?” Means Do you want whipped cream? Warning: It’s rich and delicious, but often unsweetened.

Some of the Best Gelaterie in Rome

Okay, there are hundreds of gelaterie, so this list is by no means exhaustive. Been to one you’d highly recommend or have an update to my list? PLEASE add in the comments at the bottom of this post. Next time I’m in Roma, I’ll check it out! Those we personally visited have an * by their name.

CENTRO STORICO (historic center):

*Frigidarium Gelateria Artigianale (Gelato Map I) Via del Governo Vecchio 112

This was our #1 favorite of all those we tried. They’re famous for their fruit and nut gelatos and we tried both. It was the perfect combination of fresh/icy and rich/creamy. Their signature flavors are the Crema Florentine and the Mukkota. They’ll also dip your cone in chocolate and add cream to your cup, if that’s what you fancy.

*Gelateria del Teatro (Gelato Map F) Via di San Simone, 70, just off the pedestrianized Via dei Coronari, on a tiny dead-end street—look for the sign on Coronari

This was our #2 favorite gelato stop in Rome. The Roman owner offers extremely funky flavors like vino w basilio (wine with basil); sesame; pera e caramel (pear with caramel and dash of clove); tiramisu; ricotta-fig-almond, as well as gluten-free cones and non-dairy options for vegans.

He brings in almonds from Bari, pistachios from Sicily, and offers my favorite chocolate in Rome, Puro, that tastes like a rich, dark candy bar.

Emma had passion fruit, mango and peach—she liked the passion fruit—sparkling, closest-to-the-fruit flavor she’d sampled in Rome, but was disappointed she couldn’t try ananas here (wasn’t offered the day we were there). I adored my puro, and paired it with the lovely tiramisu.

*Giolitti (Gelato Map G) Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40, close to Pantheon and Palazzo Montecitorio

This place opened in 1900 and holds on to its old-fashioned, classic feel. The Obamas came here during a G8 Summit and the crema marrone (chestnut) was reportedly a favorite of Pope John Paul II. We tried the coconut and stracciatella.

*Grom (Gelato Map K) On Piazza Navona and elsewhere (even Venice and New York City)

This chain has taken artigianale to a new level—they insist on locally grown, responsibly harvested ingredients. Frankly, we’re not quite that picky about our gelato, but hey, we loved their green apple, cassis, and pineapple flavors. Yummo.

Alberto Pico (Gelato Map L) Via della Seggiola 12, on the edge of the Ghetto not far from Torre Argentina and Campo de’ Fiori

As president of the Associazione Italiana Gelatieri—an organization which certifies gelaterie as “artigianale”—Signore Pico’s shop reportedly has some of the best of the best; sadly we weren’t near here and hungry at the same time. Friends say the fruit flavors are especially delicious.

*Il Gelato di San Crispino (Gelato Map H) Via della Panetteria 42, very close to Trevi Fountain (but they have multiple locations in the city)

Do a Google search, and you’re very likely to come across mentions of San Crispino, and for good reason. This is one that offers no cones, and their servings are small, but be sure to check out their signature flavor—miela (cream with honey)—or the amazing chocolate-orange, or the tongue-tantalizing sage-raspberry. Others rave about the zabione, made with aged Marsala wine.

*Tre Scalini (Gelato Map J) Piazza Navona 28

Behind the restaurant of the same name on the Piazza Navona, you’ll find this shop. Order your gelato to go here, for half the table price, because this is an awesome place to stroll, checking out the various street performers and watercolor artists. I went specifically for the tartufo, their famed chocolate ice cream roll (5 Euro)—and thought it was delicious. But it was also so rich, I wished my daughter had opted to share it with me rather than have her mango, pineapple (her favorite) and coconut. The tartufo features that kind of deep, dark chocolate that stains, rolled in chocolate chips, with a cherry in the middle; I could only eat half.

Il Gelato di Claudio Torce (Gelato Map E) Piazza Monte d’Oro 91/92; one of several locations

Around the corner from Palazzo Borghese is a current favorite among foodie bloggers, a shop which features over 100 flavors, set up in two rooms—one for the chocolate/cream fanatics and the other for the fruity fanatics. They even offer celery and carrot flavors, in case you’re not getting enough veggies in your Roman diet.

TRASTEVERE (across the Tiber from Centro Storico)

Fior di Luna (Gelato Map N) Via della Lungaretta, 96

This shop is all about the fresh, seasonal fruits (berries only in Summer, for example) and good chocolate. They also offer gelati without added sugar, sorbets, frozen yogurt, and granite.

Da Checco (Gelato Map M) Via Benedetta 7, behind Piazza Trilussa; Note: Map is approximate location; Via Benedetta not listed but it’s either close or been renamed as Dorotea

This is another ristorante/gelaterie combo. The Porcellis have been in business with their restaurant next door, Checco er Carettiere, for generations. And here, if you’re looking for something more icy/refreshing, their granite di caffe is supposed to be superior.

VATICAN AREA and north into Prati shopping district

Gelarmony (Gelato Map D) Via Marcantonio Colonna, 34 (just north of Piazza Cola di Rienzo)

Specializing in Sicilian gelato, this place features outstanding coconut and mandoria (almond). They even serve your gelato in the Sicilian tradition—in a warm brioche bun. If you’re gelatoed-out, they also offer pastries such as cannoli or cassata siciliana (ricotta cake).

Al Settimo Gelo (Gelatto Map B: partial; just a block away) Via Vodice 21A, in Piazza Mazzini neighborhood N of Prati

This shop has been singled out for honors among foodies and food critics alike. Many consider it the best gelato in Rome, but it was just too far out of the way for us to sample their visciole (sour cherry); iraniano (rose water, almonds and saffron); Greco (yogurt, honey and pine nuts) & several varieties of chocolate including one with pepperoncini (hot peppers—I love spicy/sweet combos). If you’re staying in the Vaticana area, however, let me know what you thought of it!

Antonini (Gelatto Map A) Via Sabotino 21-29

This is a local favorite. If you go, try the zabaione (eggs, cream, sweet Marsala wine). It’s supposed to be grand.

Gelateria di Gracchi (Gelato Map C) Via dei Gracchi 272, one block from the Piazza Cola di Rienzo, right around the corner from Gelarmony; one of multiple locations

When I get to this one, I’ll try the dark chocolate with Grand Marnier, ricotta and pear, or pine nut.

Other Recommendations via the Net (NOT on our GELATO MAP):

FLAMINIO: (north of Historical Center)

Neve di Latte Via Luigi Poletti, 6 in the Maxxi/Auditorium neighborhood

Their Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee flavor, or the vanilla with a 1957 vintage cognac, or one of their fine chocolates, all would reel me into this one.

SOUTHEAST of Historical Center

Mela e Cannella Via Oderisis de Gubbio, 71 in the Marconi neighborhood

Given that it was October when we went last, their namesake flavor (apple and cinnamon) almost made me willing to hop a metro and bus to get there. Almost. Next time! They also have other autumnal deliciousness like crema al vino porto (cream with port wine) and malaga (rum and raisin).

Fatmorgana Via di Lago di Lesina 9/11 (in Nemorense); Via G. Bettolo 7 (Prati)

Their Kentucky flavor (chocolate with tobacco) sounds intriguing enough to make me want to taste it (okay, but maybe not order a whole cup of it), but I’m also called by the estasi (chocolate with hazelnut and rum) flavor as well as the fennel, licorice and honey. Mmm. Adore grilled fennel. Would I like it in gelato? I’m curious enough to experiment, next time I’m in Roma.

What’s YOUR favorite gelateria in Rome? Please comment below! Favorite flavors, updates…all welcome.

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