The.Diy.expert

HOW TO MAKE TRELLIS FENCE

2012-05-16T16:21:00.001-07:00



How to Make Trellis You can buy ready made trellis , but you may want to make your own to get the look that's just right for your garden. You need to use pressure treated timber. For trellis panels, tiling battens or roofing laths are ideal. You'll find these at builders' merchants and timber yards. Paint or stain the timber to match other timber in your garden. Paint pads and sprays give better results. Either use an outdoor paint, wood stain, or dilute an interior paint in a 1 : 3 mix with white spirit or water, according to the type of paint. Diluted interior paint will not hold its colour outside as long as specialist exterior materials. Sketch out your design and work out what quantities of materials you'll need. The size of openings or gauge will depend on the amount of privacy or screening you need.

Level space to work; lengths of 38 mm x 18 mm tiling batten; galvanized nails or staples; saw; hammer; a spacer - a piece of timber the same width as the spaces you want to make your trellis. Optional: paint or stain; plastic sheet to cover ground; treated timber to make a frame for a more substantial trellis panel - 25 mm x 75 mm, 25 x 50 mm, or to suit finished size of trellis. You will need a double frame to 'sandwich' the trellis, metal corner fixings, nails or screws.

Frame - optional: make two rectangular frames the size you need using the large treated timber. Cut the corners at 45°, to give a neater finish, and fix pieces together using metal brackets. Lay one frame on the ground and make up the trellis as shown below, securing the battens to the framework. Trellis - cut the vertical battens to length and lay them out on the ground. Space them uniformly to your gauge, using the timber spacer.

Cut the horizontal battens to the size you need. Put the first one in position on top of the taller pieces using the spacer. Use nails or staples to attach the top batten to the bottom pieces at every intersection. Continue with the other pieces until you have built up your trellis.

Frame option: place the finished trellis panel on top of one of the frames. Lay the other frame on top to complete the double frame. Fix the frame to the trellis. Use either nails as before, or for a more decorative effect use brass screws with cups. You may need to drill holes for these. For taller framed trellis, you may want to add a bracing bar across the middle of the panel to strengthen the structure.

Fix finished panels to the posts you have positioned.

Fix the battens together to make panels

Fix the finished panels to the upright posts

Make sure the panels are

HOW TO BUILD A RAISED VEGETABLE BED

2012-05-16T16:19:00.001-07:00

How to build a raised vegetable bed

You will need

3.9m scaffolding planks, 3.7cm thick, x 2
Soil
Organic matter
Pliers
Hand saw
Jigsaw
Tape measure
Ruler

Do it: autumn - winter

Overview

Raised beds are ideal for vegetable growing - maintenance is easier, as you don't need to dig, and the soil doesn't get walked on and compacted. A robust raised bed can be constructed from interlocking scaffolding boards, which look attractive and are inexpensive.

How to do it

1Remove the metal banding from the ends of the planks with pliers.

2Using a hand saw, cut each board in two to give one 2.3m and one 1.6m length. This is about the maximum width of bed that can be easily tended, but the dimensions can be altered to fit your site.

3Mark out the vertical slots. On the long edge, measure 8cm from the end and draw a line down to the exact centre of the plank, parallel to the short edge. Draw a second parallel line a further 3.7cm (the thickness of the board) from the first, and join up the two lines. Repeat this step at the opposite end, along the same edge, on each plank.

4Using a hand saw, cut along the two parallel lines the centre line. Then get the jigsaw and position it two-thirds of the way along the first cut and saw diagonally towards the centre line, turning the jigsaw as you go. Once the main portion of wood has been removed, go back and straighten up the shorter line.

5Slot the planks together to form the bed. This is easier to do with two pairs of hands, as you need to keep the boards level so that they drop into place. Fill the bed with soil and organic matter, ready for early-spring planting.

HOW TO MAKE A WOODEN PLANTER

2012-05-16T16:17:00.004-07:00

How to make a wooden planter

You will need

5cm x 5cm pressure-treated timber in these lengths: 9 x 100cm, 7 x 60cm, 23 x 40cm, 1 x 45cm
3.45m length of 15cm x 1cm gravel board
Saw, drill, 3mm wood drill bit
Screwdriver, try square, pencil, tape measure
75 x 7.5cm and 20 x 5cm zinc-plated screws

Do it: spring - autumn

Takes just: one weekend

Overview

A wooden planter is a great way of creating a bed to grow plants and vegetables in if you are short of space. Your wooden planter can be adapted to fit any corner, depending on your needs. And as it's made of pressure-treated timber it can be stained in any colour and won't rot.

How to do it

1Mark and cut all the pieces of timber to the correct lengths, cutting the ends as squarely as possible for a smooth finish. Using a 3mm drill bit, make a hole around 2.5cm from the end of every length to stop the wood splitting when you put in the screws.

2Lay out two 100cm, 60cm and 40cm lengths to form the frame. Butt one end of each length up to the next with the drilled holes on the side. Check the angles with the try square before fitting a screwdriver attachment and fixing the frame together with 7.5cm screws.

3Cut treated gravel board to the appropriate lengths for the planter bottom. Place the bottom boards on the frame. Don't worry if there are gaps up to 5cm wide between the boards as the planter will be lined. Pre-drill the bottom boards, check the frame is square again, then attach the boards to the frame using 5cm screws.

4Flip the frame over onto the other side so the bottom boards sit on the ground. Lay the next course and alternate the corner joins. Check all ends are flush and fix with 7.5cm screws.

5Build up four layers in this way. Instead of a final 60cm piece, lay a 100cm length across the gap to support the raised square.

6For the perfect fit, measure the cross-bar piece when it's in position across the frame and cut it in situ.

7Attach one end of the length with a 7.5cm screw from above, as shown. Fix the other by screwing into it from the outside of the frame.

8Lay the 45cm length across the other gap, lining it up with the adjacent side to make a rectangle (see picture). Check the angles and screw it into place.

9Finish this layer by placing two 40cm lengths at right angles to the 45cm piece, then cut the final length to fit the remaining gap. Continue adding courses of 40cm lengths of timber, with alternating joints, until the raised section of the planter is four layers deep.

HOW TO INSTALL OUTDOOR LIGHTING

2012-05-16T16:15:00.005-07:00

How to Install Outdoor Lighting

Skill Level: Beginner

Highlight your home with outdoor lighting.

Looking to make a dramatic change to your landscape without a dramatic change to your budget? You can provide safety, security and curb appeal to your home by installing decorative outdoor lighting. We'll show you how to create highlights and shadows with some strategically placed lamps. It's a fairly simple project that you can easily complete in a weekend.

Tools and Materials

Lawn Edger

Wire Cutters

Tape Measure

Light Kit

Lighting Your Yard

Low-voltage outdoor lighting systems are inexpensive to operate, easy to install, safe and movable. Installation is truly a do-it-yourself project. Low-voltage lighting is shock-free and safe. The hardest part is choosing from the wide assortment of styles.

Outdoor lighting around your home will make it a safer place to walk after dark, helping to deter crime. Reports show that a well-lit home discourages criminal trespassing. On the practical side, well-designed exterior lighting extends the evenings for outdoor activities.

To make it easier for guests and emergency vehicles to locate your house, light your house numbers. You can place them so your porch light shines on them, or just direct a small spotlight up from the ground to illuminate the address.

What to Buy

Outdoor wiring must always be grounded. It must also be rated as water-resistant-U.L. approved for outdoor use (U.L. stands for Underwriters Laboratories). Fixtures rated for interior use should never be used outdoors. For pool and fountain lights, use only fixtures that are especially labeled for use in these areas.

Sets — Prepackaged light sets offer the most convenient way to purchase complete, low-voltage outdoor lighting systems.

Separately — Mixing and matching light fixtures allows different lighting effects to be produced. Create a custom light set of any size. A complete line of accessories and components are available — power packs, cable connectors, bulbs, etc. — for completing custom lighting projects.

Architectural Grade — Fixtures are made of high-quality die-cast aluminum or industrial polymers that feature commercial durability and brightness.

Landscape Lighting Designs

Take a tour around your yard. One way to determine what areas you want to accent with lighting is to observe the effects created by the sun and moon on your home and yard.

Select a focal point or main element to build your lighting plan around. Elements to consider are large trees, the main entrance, a front walk or a specially landscaped portion of your yard.

Look for dark spots in corners and behind large bushes. Look for potentially hazardous steps and curbs. Light these areas for safety and security.

Combine lighting techniques (see Lighting Techniques) for interest and appeal. For example, backlight a row of bushes along a wall, uplight a nearby tree while bordering a pathway with soft downlighting.

Sketch out your yard and home on graph paper. Be sure to include landscaping and walkways. Next, sketch in the locations where you wish to install the fixtures and light patterns. After installation, test your plan. Rearrange or add to the plan as necessary to achieve the look and feel you want.

Be sure to check local codes when planning your lighting scheme. Outdoor electrical work sometimes requires a permit from your town or county before you begin installation. Also check for the location of easements. An easement is an area on your property where the city, town or county is authorized at any time to build a road, lay sewer, run wires, etc. If you don't have a site plan with this information, check with town hall.

Next, check for underground gas lines, plumbing or cabling. Most areas are served by a dig safe service. This service is free and includes an inspector coming to your home to locate any underground lines. A quick and easy solution is to plug into an existing grounded outlet, on a deck for instance.

Soft lighting is the best for creating effects. The most common form of outdoor lighting is holiday lighting. Ordinary Christmas tree lights use less power than you might think: one-kilowatt hour for nine hours of light, which is about the same amount a small kitchen appliance would use in an average month.

When designing your outdoor lighting system, give thought to the most convenient locations for installing switches. You may wish to have them indoors so you can turn everything on or off from inside.

Special photocells attached to your lighting system will automatically turn the lights on. You can also equip your outdoor lighting with a programmable control system.

Plot Plans

Get a quality measuring tape. The longer the tape, the easier it will be to measure long distances accurately, with minimal use of stakes or other items to mark your place.

Measure the outline (border) of your property first, and then measure the distance from the property line to the house and other structures. Show all the walls, masonry and all the flower beds.

Be sure to write down all the measurements you make on your grid.

Add the shape of trees, shrubs and flower beds last and label them appropriately. Place a cross where the center of the tree trunk is located. (All trees over 6 inches in diameter should be drawn to scale.)

Now you can accurately plot where you'll place your outdoor lights.

Lighting Techniques

To make choosing a little simpler, first determine what lighting effect you're trying to achieve. Safety and security are both an apparent benefit when lighting up the dark however you choose to do it. Tier lights on steps and walkways create safer passage. Floodlights are a good choice for eliminating dark areas around windows and doors. With little effort, you can bring out the colors and shadows of foliage and the many textures your landscaping has to offer.

For further enhancement, consider adding more color to your outdoor lighting. Accessory items are available in red, green, blue and amber for creating just the right mood. Consider using one color scheme, such as blue, for a cooling effect, and amber for warmth. A mixture of colors will add drama to your outdoor lighting.

Consider the following techniques:

Downlighting — Lights are mounted high up in a tree or arbor and aimed downward for a soft and romantic feeling. Use spots, floods and spreads.

Uplighting — Fixtures are surface- or ground-mounted and angled upward to highlight a key object. Use spots, floods or in-ground fixtures.

Cross Lighting — Lights are mounted on either side of a tree, gate or arbor to reveal detail and soften shadows. Use spots or floods.

Shadowing — A light is placed at ground level to throw an object's shadow on a surface behind it. Use spots, floods or in-ground fixtures.

Silhouetting — The surface behind an object is lit for a striking effect. Use spots, floods, or in-ground fixtures.

Accent Lighting — Intense light is focused on a specific object to contrast it against a dark background. Use spots or minispreads.

Spread Lighting — Circular patterns of light illuminate flowers and low shrubs from above. Use spread fixtures.

Grazing Light — A beam of light just grazes the surface of an object to reveal its texture. Use spots, floods or in-ground fixtures.

Transformers

You'll need to compute the total wattage of your outdoor fixtures to determine the necessary transformer.

Compute the Total System Wattage

Multiply the quantity of each fixture by the watts for each fixture, to determine the total wattage necessary to power them. Then add all total fixture wattages together to determine the total system wattage needed.

Determine the Right Transformer

Now that you've determined the total wattage necessary to power your lighting plan, you must select a transformer to handle the total wattage. Divide the total wattage by the transformer wattage to determine the number of transformers needed. Then select the control option (timer, photo control, manual on / off) you desire to control your lighting plan.

Estimating Your Cable Lengths

Determine the length of your individual runs, the distance from the last light to the closest outlet (transformer).

Select the gauge wire you need, which will be determined by the length of the run.

Installation

Connect the transformer (follow the instructions included with the transformer).

Lay the cable. Low-voltage cable can be covered with wood chips or decorative stones, or simply hidden under bushes or foliage.

A lawn edger cuts just the right depth in the ground to bury your cable. Or you may prefer to make a cut in the yard surface at a 45-degree angle, pry up the sod, drop in the cable and press the sod back into place.

Place the fixtures where you want them, adjusting for the desired lighting effect.

If the system has an automatic timer, set it to the desired on / off times.

BUILDING A TIMBER CUPBOARD

2012-05-16T14:12:00.000-07:00

WELCOME TO OUR BUILDING A TIMBER CUPBOARD PROJECT

Summary: Building a cupboard. Timber frames for storage units

This project contains basic principles for building a frame for a basic cupboard. It can be expanded on by using different designs, the struts can be moved to accommodate shelves or simply left open plan. It will give you the idea of building storage space onto your home and can even be adapted to make a corner cupboard. The timber sizes can be changed and more struts can be put in to ensure greater strength if you feel you need it. The structure can be fixed to any wall, ceiling or floor using our guides to fixing. Check the wall, floor and ceiling area for pipes and cables before you drill anything.

Tools you will need. Most of these can be found at the bottom of this page, the rest can be found by clicking on the toolstore link at the bottom of the page.

We suggest for this simple cupboard you use 50 x 50mm PSE timber. This stands for Planed, Squared Edge and simply means prepared for joinery, as opposed to the "sawn" state timber is in when it leaves the timber mill. It is also called, in its prepared state, PAR which is Planed All Round.
With the number of different door designs available from kitchen and DIY stores these days we suggest it may be a good idea for you to find the doors (if you intend to have them) first. The frame can easily be built around the door size and you will have guaranteed matching your existing decor.
We have deliberately not given any dimensions in the project. Even when planed timber can vary by a mm or so and ceiling heights can vary considerably. Measure your own timber and other dimensions carefully and remember.>Measure twice-Cut once
Use a carpenters square to make all cuts. Neat joints are impossible without a completely square face to begin with. Also if the timber is not square at the end, a measurement to the other end will vary, depending on which side you measure from. This can make it impossible to get a decent finish.

A variety of joints can be seen in our timber joints projects and some special joints are shown here. The principle of cutting them is exactly the same as shown in the timber joints projects. Please remember it takes many years to become a carpenter or joiner. If this is your first project, or you have not done much carpentry, buy an additional length of timber and practice your joints before embarking on a project which will become a feature in your home. An 8 foot length of sawn timber to practice on will cost pennies compared to the waste of materials if you mess up with the real thing.
Check your walls are square to each other using our 3, 4 5 method shown below.
HOW DO I CHECK MY ROOM IS SQUARE (click on link for more tips and tricks)

Floor tiling, carpets, any number of things around the home require a degree of setting out. Remember a quarter of an inch out at one end of a 12 foot room, means about 2 inches out at the other end. It is important to start any appropriate projects with straight and square lines and it is very easy to accomplish. The method is called 3,4,5 and for the technically minded is based on Pythagoras's theorem which we won't go into now ! Suffice to say that if you measure along one wall 3 feet (or metres or any other unit), and along the other wall 4 of the same unit, the diagonal line in between the points should measure 5 units. If it does your walls are square, if it doesn't, you need to mark some points that are square to start your work.

Draw your plan before you start.

All joints need to be "made" before any of the frame is fixed to the wall, floor or ceiling. Once cut, fix the two uprights absolutely vertically on the walls using the struts as spacers to get them in the right position. Fix the struts and the centre upright together using glue and screws. Make sure the screw heads are counter sunk into the timber or they will push the cladding out. Use a tenon saw to cut the skirting back if your prefer that to cutting the frame around the skirting. Frame can be fixed to the wall using a 7mm masonry bit with red wall plugs and (for 50mm timber) 3 inch, number 8 screws. For fixings to plasterboard use our guide. Also fixing to lathe and plaster.

Floor/ceiling + cross rail joints

Cross rail to post joints

Mark the position of the struts lightly on the walls when your frame is in place. You will not be able to see them when you are attaching the cladding, making fixing to them a bit of a lottery. The pencil marks can be rubbed out later.
Next, cut and fix the shelf or shelves. This can be done more easily when you can get to all sides. The side rails which support the cladding should be fixed at no less than 600mm centres for 12.5mm cladding and if your cladding is thinner than that, they should be spaced at 450mm centres.
The shelves and cladding material we have left up to you.

We always prefer to use screws to fix the cladding to the frame even if we are using plasterboard. Sink screw heads into the cladding and fill over them to get a flush face on which to decorate.
The joints between the cupboard and the wall/ceiling can easily be filled with flexible filler or decorators caulk using an sealant or "applicator" gun as shown below. Alternatively you may like to fix some coving or a shaped timber moulding.

HOW TO BUILD A BIRDBOX

2012-05-16T14:10:00.002-07:00

Building a Bird Box

Summary: Information and advice on the materials you need and how to go about building your own wooden bird box for your garden to attract nesting birds.

If you want to encourage birds to come into your garden, a good way to start is to put up a bird box. A bird nesting box is easy to make, and building your own means that you can tailor it to the types of bird you want to encourage.

Measurements

There are no exact measurements for the bird box, except for the hole in the front – this needs to be cut according to what type of birds you want to nest in the box. A 25mm hole is suitable for blue tits, coal tits and marsh tits; 28mm for great tits, tree sparrows and pied flycatchers; a 38mm hole will allow house sparrows and nuthatches in.

You can make your bird box out of any spare scraps of timber or plywood you have lying around, or buy a plank of wood about 150mm wide and 15mm thick – you’ll need a total of around 1500mm in length if you are using one piece.

Measure and mark out the following sizes on the piece of wood, to form the sides, base, front and top of the bird box:

Sides: the side panels will be slanted, 150mm wide by 200mm high at the front and 250mm high at the back.
Base: 150mm by 120mm
Back: 150mm by 460mm
Front: 150mm by 200mm
Top: 150mm by 220mm

Putting the box together

Cut out the pieces using a wood saw (see our cutting and sawing timber project), and sand the sawn edges to make them smooth. Use a flat wood drill bit to drill the hole in the front panel – the hole must be at least 125mm from the base of the box, so that small nestlings can’t fall out.

Using wood nails that are long enough to go through the thickness of the wood and into the second piece of wood, nail one of the sides to the base, then nail both pieces to the back of the bird box – align the base on the back piece so that you have enough space at the top to drill a hole for fixing your bird box in place. Put three nails in each side to ensure your joints are secure. Turn the half-built box over, and nail on the other side, then turn onto the back and nail on the front panel.

To fix on the top, find a piece of rubber or leather (an old bicycle inner-tube is perfect) and cut it to the width of the box to form a flat hinge. Place the top piece of wood in place, and tack the rubber to the back and the top pieces of wood (galvanised felt nails would be ideal for this). This should enable the top to be lifted up so that you can clean the bird box out each year. If you can’t find any rubber, screw the top into place with self-tapping screws so that it can be removed.

Drill a hole in the top of the back piece of wood, and fix your completed bird box to a wall, tree, fence or post. Ideally the bird box should be positioned in a sheltered, north-east facing spot, 2-5 metres above the ground. Try not to place it too near other bird boxes or feeding tables.

ADDING A SPUR TO AN EXISTING CIRCUIT

2012-05-16T14:08:00.003-07:00

ADDING A SPUR TO AN EXISTING CIRCUIT

TURN ALL POWER OFF AND ISOLATE ANY CIRCUITS YOU MAY BE WORKING ON.

Part P of the new building regulations could involve a check on any additional circuitry by qualified electricians when you sell your home. This can affect your sale, you could be breaking the law and your house insurance may not be valid. Please be absolutely sure you know what you are doing and get all of your work checked by a qualified electrician
Very often we find we do not have enough sockets at home. It is not a difficult job to add another but there are certain rules to follow.
A spur can be connected to an existing socket, on either a ring main or a radial circuit, providing that socket does not already have a spur. That is only one spur per socket is allowed and the number of spurs must not exceed the number of sockets. If this is necessary in any part of your home the only way you can do this is by adding another ring main or by extending one of the ring mains you have.
The spur must be connected to the existing circuit using the same cable as used in the main circuit. You can see how to wire a spur to an existing socket from the images below. The first image is how the back of your double socket should look and the second is the wiring for a spur. A general rule for a ring main is that if you only have two cables in the back of an existing socket then it is ok to spur...However, if you have a radial circuit with two cables coming in and out, this may be the last socket on that circuit and already has a spur. Please check with a qualified electrician if you are not sure and read our section on electrical safety and Part P Building Regulations (linked above).

If there are 3 cables coming out of any socket then it is not ok to spur.

A spur can be added to any part of the circuit providing the rules above are followed. If there is not an existing socket near enough, you can connect into the cable by means of a junction box for your new spur.

The wiring for a junction box can be seen here. Junction boxes come rated for different uses by the amps they are allowed to carry. A 30amp junction box should be used on a ring or radial circuit feeding sockets only. The junction box must be fixed solidly to a suitable surface and must not just "float around suspended by the cables it joins.
The cables to and from any spurs you connect must be protected by a conduit of some kind; be it on the surface or buried in the wall. If you bury cables in the wall they must only run vertically, not horizontally. Cables may be placed in floor or ceiling voids but not amidst, or wrapped in, insulation where they may become too hot.
Please also check the rules very carefully for ring mains and radial circuits. You are limited in the length of cable you are allowed to use in both circuits and long spurs could make you exceed the limit. If this is the case you are asking the circuit to use much more energy than the circuit is designed for. More energy = more heat and cables can catch fire. Part P of the new building regulations could involve a check on any additional circuitry by qualified electricians when you sell your home. This can affect your sale, you could be breaking the law and your house insurance may not be valid. Please be absolutely sure you know what you are doing and get all of your work checked by a qualified electrician.

HOW TO BUILD A GREENHOUSE

2012-05-16T14:03:00.003-07:00

How to build a greenhouse

This page shows a unique and cheap method of how to build a greenhouse. The method used is author Mike Gilmore’s own design and came about because he needed a cheap DIY greenhouse build solution for his extensive alpine plant collection – an alpine house.
Introduction
The construction details for this greenhouse build can be used for any size of greenhouse. The greenhouse plans for this particular greenhouse were used to build the all-important glazed section that was built over the existing base which we wanted to make use of because of its fantastic rare floor. But any Self Builder simply needs to extend the sides down to the floor for his own use. It’s that simple. But first let me explain how we got there by way of introduction.
My family took over the restoration of a large overgrown and derelict walled garden in 1999, among the items we uncovered beneath the overgrown jungle was the brick base of a 60ft of what was once a very exotic heated cucumber/marrow house. The first photo gives you an idea of what we found after we had removed the overgrowth! The new greenhouse was to remain like this for 2 years before we got around to clearing it properly.

We discovered that the original greenhouse was smashed by the previous owner and all the glazing was left on the growing beds or swept under the floor out of sight. Walls were damaged and needed rebuilding, but eventually, after several bloodied fingers the job was done and we could consider building the greenhouse.

Greenhouse Build

The first job in constructing a new greenhouse is to build a level concrete base. Anyone debating with themselves about its cost should kick the idea into touch and get on with it. A concrete greenhouse base is THAT important.
Building the walls
It makes the build easier and more accurate. Once finished a concrete base is easier to walk on, easier to clean and helps maintain a cleaner, healthier plant environment. The next job is the 2×4 base plate that runs around the floor perimeter. On my greenhouse its on the wall, but for you its on the floor, for both its a base plate. The important thing here and now is to mark it out and get it ready.
If your greenhouse is as long as mine you will need to make the necessary scarf joints using the single halving technique. Basically, at each end of timber that you’re joining together, cut a half-deep section of timber out that’s about 8″ long. Match both halves of each timber together. Easy. But DO NOT fix the floor/wall plate to the concrete base.
Now mark and cut your vertical ‘wall’ timbers. It’s easier to do this on the ground. Align them at regular intervals and fix them to your base plate by knocking 6″ nails through the base plate and into the verticals.
Do the same for an identical wall plate that will run around the top of your greenhouse, which you will attach the roof to.
You should have now completed a simple wall framework on the floor.
Now, turn it upright. You will need an extra pair of hands to align it to the base plate where you want it, while you now secure it to the floor.
Repeat for each wall. Your greenhouse should now look like this.
In the picture three walls are up and so is part of the roof ridge in the centre. The diagonal lightweight timbers are roofing lathes which were used to brace the structure and ensure everything was square and upright. Use the 3-4-5 triangle technique from your school days to check everything is SQUARE and a level that everything is UPRIGHT.
The picture is very self-explanatory and clearly shows the construction of the central roof ridge.
Please note the ridge is a DOUBLE RIDGE. Slightly more difficult to build, but it makes for easier maintenance.
Plastic corrugated roof panels were used in this greenhouse build example because the greenhouse is located beneath Larch trees which drop branches as a matter of habit through the winter.
Although none have needed to be replaced yet, this is only due to the improved resilience of the plastic. Glass here would be a different story.
This next photo shows my economical screen material – ordinary windbreak. The trick to making this more permanent is to thread galvanised wire through the windbreak material along the edge you need to secure. It takes time. Once stretched over the framework hammer U-nails across the threaded wire. The result is most unlikely to rip.
Windbreak fabric makes a cheap greenhouse. It makes an excellent shade house for anyone living in sunnier climes. In this case I was building an alpine house, these diminutive plants are not keen on wet UK winters but they relish plenty of airflow all year-round. This design provides them with the best of both worlds. Plus, there’s no risk of me leaving the windows closed accidentally on a sunnier day and losing my stock!
The completed greenhouse build viewed from inside.
This greenhouse has extensive roof overhangs to prevent wind-blown rain entering. The roof sections are ten feet long and the extra overhang means I don’t need to cut them.
So why the double ridge construction you may well ask? The roof span is pretty extensive because of those uncut roof panels described above. Each springtime the roof can be easily cleaned with a power washer when I walk along the ridge and spray downwards on to the roof. Much easier and more effective than if I tried cleaning the roof from ground level.

Here’s the shading effect.
Again the shading is simple and effective. Windbreak material is threaded through with wire once more and the shades are pulled open or closed at will.

HOW TO INSTALL A GARDEN FISHPOND

2012-05-16T14:01:00.004-07:00

How to Plan an Outdoor Fish Pond

Measuring Tapes
Pond Filters
Pond Liners

Instructions

- 1
  
  Consider the following before starting construction: Where will the pond go? You don't want to locate it under trees where you'll have leaves constantly falling in it, and worse, clogging the filter.
- 2
  
  Make sure power and water sources are available.
- 3
  
  Don't position your pond where it will be exposed to flooding. Be sure the area you choose is level and the soil has good drainage.
- 4
  
  Keep in mind where tree roots will be in respect to your pond.
- 5
  
  Know how big you want it to be. The smaller the pond, the more the outside temperature and weather conditions will affect it. Take advantage of the sun as much as possible to keep the pond warm. A stable pond in generally no less than 50 square surface feet. The depth should range between 18 and 24 inches. You'll have more maintenance issues with a pond more than 3 feet in depth.
- 6
  
  Decide what shape you like. Your options are limited only by your imagination and budget. Look through some home and yard magazines for ideas.
- 7
  
  Check the local building codes regarding ponds in your area. Some places require a fence to be constructed around ponds of certain depths. You may also need a building permit. Ask your dealer about the requirements in your community.
- 8
  
  Be familiar with the electrical codes governing outdoor use of electricity and fixtures if you plan to have lighting.
- 9
  
  Consider how long you want the pond to last, how much you want to spend on it, how good your installation resources are, and how available replacement materials are.
- 10
  
  Remember that if you want to have fish, you'll need a mechanical filter to remove debris particles from the water, and a biological filter to help control nitrogen levels.

Tips & Warnings

A fish pond is very much like an aquarium. It requires a container and a filter, and you must treat the water before you add fish.
Install your pond in the spring to give the plants the optimum time to adjust to their new conditions.
When you bring your new fish home, wrap the plastic bag in something opaque, like a paper bag. This will reduce stress on the fish. Introduce the fish to its new environment slowly.
Equalize the water temperature by floating the fish in its bag in the pond. Add ½ cup of pond water to the bag water every half hour for an hour.

HOW TO ERECT A GARDEN FENCE

2012-05-16T13:58:00.003-07:00

Erecting a Fence

Erecting a fence is a job that requires a lot of planning and organising. Decide on the type of fence you want and work out the number of poste, panels that will be needed.

	Work out what needs to be cleared and arrange for skips etc before hand. This will allow the work area to be kept clean, making the job easier and safer.
	Remove the old fencing or obstacles and prepare the area ready for new fence.
	Measure where the new posts will be. In some instances you may be able to stagger the new posts by starting with a half fence first, this may save digging out old posts. Simply cut the old post as near to the floor as possible.
	Back breaking work but dig out the old posts and concrete base where necessary. With really large concrete bases, it may pay to hire a jack hammer.
	Measure the location of the post and dig a hole deep enough for the post to be supported. A 9 foot post needs approx 2 foot below ground level for stability. Make sure the hole is wide enough to allow the post to be positioned accurately.
	Place the posts in the hole and use a concrete base for getting the correct distance between posts. Push the post hard up to the edge of the concrete base panel.
	Line the posts up using a string line, along the length of the job. Use a spirit level to position the post upright and wedge in position using old bricks or rocks. Level the concrete base panels and pack with pieces of wood or stones.
	Continue until the posts and base panels are in position.
	Place a fence panel in position and make sure the posts are vertical and tight up against both the concrete base and the fence panel. Fill the hole with concrete using a mix ratio of 3 grit sand to 1 cement.
	Work along the fence filling each hole using the same procedure.
	When the posts are all cemented in, fill below the base panels with small stone chipping's or concrete. If using concrete, create a slight slope so any water runs away from the fence.
	Continue filling below the fence panels to give a professional finish.

HOW TO FIX A DRIPPING TAP

2012-05-16T13:56:00.001-07:00

Repairing a dripping tap is generally a very simple job and one that anyone can do as long as they apply a little common sense. This guide covers replacing the washer in a fairly standard tap design, the pillar tap, and gives a little other advice as well. Mixer taps, where there are two taps, are a little different but the general principal is the same except you normally have to remove the plastic handle (this bit you turn) first to get at the valve. To remove the handle you normally have to lever off a cover to expose a screw which holds it in place.
The first thing to do is turn off the water supply. If you are really lucky you will have isolating valves under the taps which will isolate the tap or room. If you are unlucky you will have to turn off the water at the main stopcock. In this guide I am fixing the hot taps so I only need to turn off the hot water. Locate the hot water stopcock (probably in the airing cupboard) and turn clockwise until it stops. Don't force it or you may break the valve.
If you live in a hard water area and you don't work your stopcocks two or three times a year chances are it is jammed. Ours hadn't been turned for 10 years I would guess and jammed about 90% of the way closed. If this happens don't force the tap. Apply a good squirt of WD40 or other penetrating oil and wait for 10 to 15 minutes and try again. If it moves and then sticks again repeat the oiling. Some taps, unfortunately, just get jammed open and there is not much you can do about it and it is a much more difficult job to replace them.
The tap I am repairing here is a particularly simple pillar style tap as it doesn't have a cover like most so the nuts are easily accessible. There are two nuts that can be undone. The one we are currently interested in is that main valve nut marked A the nut marked B is the gland nut and at present we aren't interested in this one (I have actually undone both in the photo but you only need undo A).
If you have tap like the one shown with the main valve nut on display you probably want to protect it when you remove it. The best way to do this is to slide a cloth in between the nut and the spanner as shown in the photo below. It makes undoing the nut (and tightening it again) a bit more awkward but it does prevent scratches.
Notice that I am holding onto the spout of the tap while I am undoing it. It is important that you do this or there is a danger you will turn the body of the tap rather than the nut. This can lead to all sorts of problems not least leaks in the pipe work under the skin / bath and a cracked basin.
Now there the valve is out check the washer. If it looks old and squashed and a bit rough then there is every likelihood that it is the cause of the leak. If it looks in tip top condition then the leak may be caused by damage to the valve seat which is the bit in the tap body that the washer presses on to. The valve seat is shown in the out of focus photo below. This is looking straight down into the tap. The seat should be shiny, smooth and free from scratches. Scratches are caused by little bits of lime scale that get trapped between the washer and the seat and grind away at it. If the seat is damaged it needs to be reground which is not a difficult job.
Since washers are very cheap it is worth replacing it even if it looks fine. The picture below shows a newly replaced washer. Washers are held on in one of two ways. Either by a small nut (which is invariably stuck due to lime scale) or a fixed pin. I'm not sure which is worse. If you can get the nut free replacing the washer is trivial if the nut is stuck though it's really hard. The pin system on the other hand might have less to go wrong but replacing the washer can be a challenge. The problem is that in order to hold the washer tightly the hole in the centre of the washer appears to be to small to go over the pin. The best advice I can offer is get someone strong in to help you and put some soap on the pin. I ended up using two grips to force the washer over the pin.
Now that the washer is replaced its time to reassemble the parts. Grab your spanner and set to work. Don't forget to hold onto the spout of the tap while tightening the valve. Once the valve is tight and the tap is in place turn on the water supply again. I suggest that at first you turn it on just a quarter or half turn and then go and check for leaks. If you don't see any turn it on full and then back half a turn. The half turn closed helps stop the stopcock from freezing (sticking).

HOW TO BUILD A SHED PART 4-6

2012-05-16T13:52:00.000-07:00

Page 4: Instructions 1

The FloorCut the Floor Frame members (skids and joists) from the 'Materials List', to the measurements shown in the 'Skid and Joist Outlay' plan. On level ground, make up the Floor Frame, also as per the 'Skid and Joist Outlay' plan.

Cover the floor with 20mm (3/4) inch plywood, nailing a maximum of 200 (8") apart on all joists.

Alternative flooring can be used such as 20mm (3/4") thick boards, or other suitable sheet.

The Wall FramesCut the Wall Frame members from the 'Materials List' to the measurements as shown in the 'Wall Frame and Stud Placement' and Cross Section Plans. Cut the longest members first.

Make the Wall Frames up on even ground, referring to the 'Wall Frame and Stud Placement' Plan which shows the placement of the studs from a bird's eye-view. In this particular plan, the Studs are spaced at 600 [2ft] crs or o.c.(which means "at centers" or "on center"). This means the Studs are spaced apart 600 (2ft) from the center of one Stud, to the center of the adjoining Stud (where possible).

Studs spaced at 600 [2ft] crs/o.c. are also placed appropriately to accommodate standard width 1200 [4ft] Cladding or Lining, either exterior and interior.

Wall Frame Nogging Fix four rows of Noggings, evenly spaced between all the Studs. This is best done while the Wall Frame is still laid on the ground. The Noggings give the exterior vertical Boards something substantial to be nailed to.

Lift and Fix the Wall Frames in Place Nail the Wall Frames together at the corners so the outside edges of the corner Studs are flush.

Ensure the Bottom Plate is straight and that the outside edge is flush with the edge of the floor and then nail in place. Make the walls plumb (vertical) and temporarily brace on the inside of the walls.

The Roof BeamCut and fix the two Beam Supports on top of (and in the middle of) the front and rear Wall Frame Top Plates. The Roof Beam can then be cut to length and fixed in place on top of the two Beam Supports.
Cut four end rafters as per the 'Rafter Detail' drawing and fix in place. Plumb and temporarily brace.

Page 5: Instructions 2

	6.	The Roof Rafters Cut the remaining eight intermediate rafters (see 'Rafter Detail' drawing) and fix in place, four each side. Spacings are shown in 'The Roof Plan'.
	7.	Roof Noggings Measure and cut four rows of Noggings that will fit between the Rafters. Place the rows each side of the Side Wall's top plates (see Picture). This is so the exterior Boards and Battens will have a straight edge at the top to butt into. The same applies to any likely interior lining, should you choose to use it.
	8.	Roof Sheathing Cover the floor with 12mm (1/2) inch plywood, nailing a maximum of 200 (8") apart on all Rafters. Run the sheets from the Roof Beam to the ends of the Rafters. The sheets will need trimming. All joins running parallel with the Rafters, must be on a Rafter. Any necessary join running parallel with the Roof Beam, must be under a Purlin.
	9.	The Purlins Nail three rows of Purlins to each plane (side) of the roof, overhanging each side of the gables by 25mm (1") or the thickness of the exterior vertical Boards. Fix the top row about 75 (3") down from the apex (this measurement will depend upon the width of the Ridge Capping, as the Ridge Capping is fixed to the top purlin), the bottom row vertically flush with the end of the Rafter and another row in the middle. Nail the ends of the Roof Sheathing (from the underside) to the bottom purlins.
	10.	Fascia, Barge and Roof Underlay Nail the Barge Board to the end of the Purlins up along each rake of the gable and flush with the top of the Purlins. Join the Barge Boards at the apex (vertical cut) and cut the other (lower) end vertically, 175mm (6") past the rafter (lower) ends. Cut and fix the fascia Board in between the Barge Boards and to the Rafter ends. The top edge of the Fascia Board should be flush with the top of the bottom Purlin. Cover the roof with a self-supporting Underlay prior to the Corrugated Roofing Iron going on.

Page 6: Instructions 3

11.

The RoofFix the Roofing Iron to the Purlins with appropriate roofing nails/screws. Fix to the top and bottom Purlins at every second corrugation and fix to the intermediate Purlins at every 3rd or 4th corrugation. Fix through the high side of the corrugation.

Overhang the roofing approx 65 (2 1/2") past the Fascia Board or 50 (2") past the back of the gutter.

12.

Ridge Capping and Barge FlashingStandard Ridge Capping is about 130 (5") each side of the apex, but can vary and any size can be made to order. Have the Ridge Flashing in mind when positioning the top Purlin. Fix to the Purlin at every second corrugation.

The Barge Flashing goes under the Ridge Capping at the top. Fix to each purlin (through two corrugations) and also to the barge board.

13.

Cladding UnderlayA Cladding Underlay should envelop the exterior walls prior to the cladding being fixed.

14.

Exterior Vertical BoardsCommence fixing the Boards to the Wall Frames, beginning from one corner. Cut the Boards long enough so that they will touch the underside of the Rafter at the top and run at least 50mm (2") below the floor.

Nail the Boards to the Noggings with nails approximately 75mm (3") apart (including the nail that will be going through the Batten). Leave a gap between each board.

15.

The BattensFix the Battens 75x25 (1x3) over each join. Preferably, the battens should have a groove each side of the join to stop water being drawn up by capillary action.

Nail on the center line of the Batten, through the gap between the Boards and into the Noggings. Overlap on corners (see picture).

16.

Done!Install the Door, install the Window and you're done!

HOW TO BUILD A SHED PART 1-3

2012-05-16T13:48:00.003-07:00

Page 1: Introduction and Contents

This detailed shed plan-set is in both Standard and metric dimensions. It is built on skids, meaning that there are no footings or foundations and that the finished shed is able to be moved. The side cladding is board and batten and the roof cladding is corrugated roofing iron over plywood sheathing.

Simply go to any page listed below. The plans in the 'Plans' page can be viewed with the step by step instructions.

Page 2: Materials List

Stock sizes are nominal sizes (see glossary)
Excludes hardware such as nails and other fixing or fastening components.

Material	Used For	Amount
100x100 (4x4) Natural decay-resistant lumber or treated for in-ground applications	Skids	6m (20ft)
150x50 (2x6) Natural decay-resistant lumber or treated for in-ground applications	Floor Joists	26m (86ft)
20 (3/4") plywood 2400x1200 (4'x8') sheets	Flooring	3 of
100x50(2x4) Framing Lumber	Plates; Studs; Cripple Studs; Trimmer Studs; Headers; Noggings; Blockings; Beam supports; Rafters	175m (575ft)
12 (1/2") plywood 2400x1200 (4'x8') sheets	Roof Sheathing	4 of
75x50 (2x3)	Roof Purlins	20m (60ft)
150x25 (1x6) Natural decay-resistant lumber or treated for exterior use.	Barge Board and Fascia Board	14m (46ft)
Roof Underlay	Vapor and Wind Barrier	10sq M (108sq ft)
Corrugated Roofing Iron	Roof Cladding	10sq M (108sq ft)
Ridge Capping	Covers the apex of the roof	6.3m (21ft)
Barge Flashing	Covers the gable ends of the roof	6.5m (22ft)
Cladding Underlay	Vapor and Wind Barrier	28sq m (300sq ft)
200x25 (1x8) Natural decay-resistant lumber or treated for exterior use	Vertical Cladding Boards	130m (426ft)
75x25 (1x3) Natural decay-resistant lumber or treated for exterior use	Vertical Cladding Battens	150m (492ft)
760 (30") Pre-Hung Door	See NOTE 1 below	1 of
1200 (4ft) wide x 600 (2ft) high complete window	See NOTE 2 below	1 of

Door. Any size door can be used. Just make the trim size in the frame (rough opening) accordingly, noting that it should be at least 10mm (3/8") wider and 10mm (3/8") higher than the overall size of the complete pre-hung door (which includes door, jambs and sill).

Window. The trim size in the frame (rough opening) should be at least 10mm (3/8") wider and 10mm (3/8") higher than the overall size of the complete window (box size).

Page 3: Plans

Skid and Joist Outlay

Skid Detail

Page 1: Introduction and Contents

Page 2: Materials List

Page 3: Plans

Page 4: Instructions part one

Page 5: Instructions part two

Page 6: Instructions part three

Page 7: Glossary of terms

Wall Frame and Stud Placement

Roof Plan & Rafter Outlay

Cross Section Detail

Rafter Detail

HOW TO LAY GARDEN DECKING

2012-05-16T13:45:00.000-07:00

How To Lay Garden Decking

Putting a deck in your garden will make it look smarter, neater - and make it easier to care for. It will also give you loads of new space for a dining area, space for seating or for kids to play.

Tape measure
Wooden pegs and string
Spade
Weedproof membrane
Gravel
Deck boards and joists
Saw
Wood preservative
Drill
Stainless steel or galvanised countersunk screws
Electric screwdriver
Spirit level

Budget

From around £200 for a DIY store kit; less if you buy components to your chosen size.

Time

A small deck will probably take a weekend - but if you're working on your own, if your deck is large or if you're new to DIY, it will take longer.

Skill

It's best for a competent DIYer to tackle this task, but there's no reason that a patient, careful beginner shouldn't give it a go.

Step One: Mark Out The Deck Area
Mark out the position of the deck using pegs and string. Clear the site of grass and weeds; and level it with a spade. Lay a weedproof membrane and cover it with gravel. If you are laying your deck over an existing patio area you won’t need to do this

Step Two: Cut And Place The Joists
Create the frame by cutting joists to the required size. The frame will be filled with floor joists; which should be 400mm apart at the centres. Mark their positions on the frame; and cut the floor joists to size. Place the side and floor joists in position in the garden.

Step Three: Construct The Frame
Make up the deck bearer of frame and floor joists. Use 70mm countersunk screws in pre-drilled holes; with three screws at each joist end. Use a spirit level to ensure all joists are level as you work.

Step Four: Lay The Deck Boards
Lay the deck boards. These run at right angles to the floor joists. Cut each board to the length required. Start with the first board at the front of the deck; ensuring it is flush with the outside edge of the frame. Use two 50mm countersunk screws in pre-drilled holes to secure the deck board to the deck bearer at each joist. Secure the remaining boards in the same way; leaving a 3-5mm gap between each board.

Step Five: Finishing
Use extra deck boards to face the exposed cut ends. Seal any cut ends of joists or boards with wood preservative to avoid rot.