the foxling

Style Icon: Marilyn Monroe's Dress in The Misfits

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Mon, 05 Mar 2012 09:00:00 +0000

Suddenly, Last Summer, 1959

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Sun, 04 Mar 2012 12:27:00 +0000

And the award for most misleading poster and tagline goes to...

I have to apologise in advance that this post is a bit rushed and the photos are haphazard and numerous. This is part review, part picspam, part costume design study, so please bear with me.

Suddenly, Last Summer is a typical Tennesse Williams potboiler with a gruesome twist. It features Katharine Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor and Montgomery Clift. While I find Monty lacking in this film (more on that later), Elizabeth and Katharine do a really outstanding job.

Dr. Cukrowicz (Montgomery Clift) works for a dilapidated state asylum in New Orleans where he performs lobotomies. Yes, it's that kind of film. Doctor tells us that "Cukrowicz" is apparently a Polish word for sugar, but that isn't very important. He throws a strop about the conditions he works in and is about to run back to Chicago when his boss tells him about a rich widow called Violet Venable (Katharine Hepburn). She is fascinated by an article about the Doctor's work, and might give them some financial support which would allow for necessary modernisation to the hospital. Monty shoots off to visit Violet, who has interesting taste in interior design and a dislike for herbaceous borders. Her garden, which was designed by her son, is "like the dawn of creation", otherwise known as a jungle with Venus Flytraps which are hand fed with specially imported flies.

Her son, Sebastian, a poet who liked cruises (and cruising), died the previous summer in the company of his cousin, Catherine (Elizabeth Taylor), who has since gone absolutely bonkers. It becomes clear that Violet wants Dr. Cukrowicz to give Catherine a lobotomy in exchange for great wodges of cash for his hospital.

Dr. Cukrowicz: Mrs. Venable, loving your neice as you do, you must know there's great risk in this operation. Whenever you enter the brain with a foreign object... even a needle thin knife in the hands of the most skilled surgeon there is a great deal of risk.

Violet: But it does pacify them, I've read that, it quiets them down. It suddenly makes them peaceful.

Dr. Cukrowicz: Yes that that it does do, but...

Violet: But what?

Dr. Cukrowicz: Well it will be years before we know if the immediate benefits of the operation are lasting or maybe just passing or perhaps... there's a strong possibility that the patient will always be limited. Relieved of acute anxiety yes, but limited.

Violet: But what a blessing Dr. to be just peaceful. To be just suddenly peaceful. After all that horror. After those nightmares. Just to be able to lift up their eyes to a sky not black with savage devouring birds.

He visits Catherine and realises quite quickly that she's not she insane at all. Catherine's mother (played by Mercedes McCambridge, who incidentally dubbed the voice of the demonically possessed Linda Blair in The Exorcist) and her dopey brother have been offered money by Violet if they'll agree to Catherine's lobotomy. As they are greedy little sods, they try to convince Catherine into lying down while thinking of the Confederacy, and let the nice Doctor put a hole in her head. Catherine doesn't really like that idea, strangely enough, and runs amok through the asylum making all the crazies crazier.

Dr Cukrowicz is sure that Catherine is hiding a secret about the death of Sebastian, and forces the family into a confrontation in which Catherine reveals what really happened last summer - and it isn't very pleasant. Violet gets into her cage (some kind of early Stannah stairlift) and ascends to loonyland while Catherine and Dr Cukrowicz gaze into each other's eyes.

Thar she blows!

Highlight below for spoilers:

...................................................................................................................

It turns out, that Sebastian used Catherine to "procure" boys for him on their travels, as he had previously used his mother until she grew too old. In a place called Cabeza de Lobo, Sebastian was killed and cannibalised by street urchins at the ruins of an ancient temple. No one was expecting that.

...................................................................................................................

Suddenly, Last Summer is sometimes criticised for being a bit heavy on Freudian symbolism. Personally, I like it. It might be a bit clunky but there are some very witty lines amid the bleakness. I remember this film as being one that my grandmother would not allow me to watch, although at that age I think that I probably would have mistaken the flashback of the death scene for a rugby tackle and remained psychologically unscathed. Having said that, the scenes in the asylum are quite unnerving and there's a disturbing tone throughout the film. It's very well directed, and the screenplay and acting is wonderful. My one criticism would be that neither Katharine Hepburn or Elizabeth Taylor attempt to put on a Southern accent, when lesser characters do. Elizabeth says "beginning" with an accent once, but that's pretty much it. It's not as if she couldn't put on an accent, as she did a Southern accent in Raintree County for example, so I'm a bit confused. Still, it's a minor gripe.

As I said, I found Montgomery Clift was a little... not wooden, but certainly not his normal, amazing self. He looks dazed and his hands noticeably shake in his first scene, so it's quite sad to see him that way. This film was made three years after the car crash in which he suffered terrible injuries and led to his addiction to drugs and alcohol. Monty found the filming exhausting, particularly the long takes. The director, Joseph Mankiewicz, found it frustrating that he had to shoot Monty's longer scenes in multiple takes, and wanted him replaced. Katharine Hepburn was especially resentful of the treatment Clift received. As soon as Mankiewicz called the final "cut" of the film, she asked him to confirm that her services were no longer required, when he did, she spat in his face.

Elizabeth Taylor's truly wonderful performance when she describes Sebastian's death was the result of Method acting. After filming, she could not be consoled, having drawn from her grief over the death of her husband Mike Todd, the previous year. - Liz fan, Ramon H., disputes this and says that Liz did not use method acting. Please read his comment below for his fascinating insights. The theory that Liz used method for this scene is from a Montgomery Clift biography, so it's obviously not the best source for information on Liz and is perhaps a little biased in favour of method acting.

Now for the costumes. The film is set in 1937, although you wouldn't know if you hadn't been told at the beginning of the film. Little effort was made to make the costumes seem late 30s really, but never mind.

First, Katharine Hepburn.

Katharine on set. I love her dress!

Katharine in her costumed coat and hat, but with her own clothes underneath. :D

Katharine (not in costume) and Monty on set.

When we first see Elizabeth Taylor, she's wearing a truly hideous dress and she's not happy about it.

Elizabeth with Mankiewicz on set

Now, the black dress Elizabeth Taylor wears is really beautiful. I took a lot of screencaptures, and then drew on some of them (very badly - sorry) to figure out the construction of it.

Ignore my doodling about the lapel seam. I found this photo below which shows that it's a dart that curves about halfway down to shape the collar. You can even see where the neckline has been interfaced. The shoulder seam isn't straight out from the neck to the armsyce as is the norm - it curves back from the neck, meeting the armsyce across the shoulders. There's a zip at the centre back, two tucks in the sleeve cap which square off the sleeves. I think I make have a go at drafting this dress for myself. If and when I do, I'll blog about it.

Here are some random screencaptures I took. Click for higher resolution.

This is the blouse and skirt she wears in the final confession scene. Pleats everywhere. You can't tell from these photos, but the skirt is pleated also.

The racy swimsuit that Sebastian made her wear.

The dress and hat she wore in the cafe and a lovely portrait.

The dress she wore when Sebastian died. It's lovely to have some colour photos of these costumes. Also, the photo below shows the construction lines of the bodice very clearly and the skirt had lots of gores to make it flare out like that. Her waist was so tiny!

Elizabeth with Eddie Fisher, who played a "street urchin" *tries not to laugh*

And that's it! I'll sign off with this photo of everyone having a fight. Take care! xxx

Grace Kelly's Wedding

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Fri, 02 Mar 2012 12:22:00 +0000

Another Grace Kelly related post! Faith's fantastic post about the Helen Rose designs for A Date with Judy at Lady Audley's Secret reminded me of some scans and images I've collected of Grace Kelly's wedding dress. It was was also designed by Helen Rose, one of my favourite costume designers, so I thought I'd share them.

Helen Rose designed for Grace Kelly in three of her films - Mogambo, The Swan and High Society. Edith Head, because of her friendship with Grace and their collaboration on several of Grace's film, such as To Catch a Thief and Rear Window, assumed that she would design the dress, however, Helen Rose was chosen and the wedding dress was made as a gift to Grace by MGM. I think the reason Rose was chosen over Edith Head is in no small part due to her design for Elizabeth Taylor both her wedding dress in Father of the Bride (which she co-designed with Walter Plunkett), and the dress for her first wedding to Nicky Hilton in 1950 (which I'll post about another time). It was, like Grace Kelly's dress, a gift to her from MGM. Linking the wedding with the studio, and using Helen Rose as the designer would raise publicity for High Society. Besides, Helen Rose was someone they knew could deliver. Her design for Elizabeth Taylor's dress was raved about at the time.

Grace Kelly had two engagement rings. The first was a temporary, or "friendship" ring of diamonds and rubies while the real one was being made. Her final ring was a 10.47 carat emerald-cut diamond set in platinum. I think it was made by Cartier. She wore it during the filming of High Society and can be seen in the film.

The top photo and the first on the bottom row shows her temporary ring, the last two show her final ring.

Here are some LIFE photos of Grace packing for her wedding and life in Monaco.

I love these photos because they show her with her adored dog, Oliver. Below is a Cartier poodle brooch she owned.

As far as I can remember (because I've stupidly misplaced the book I have about her wedding dress and trousseau), I think Helen Rose made her engagement and civil ceremony outfits also.

The above photos show Grace at the public announcement of her engagement.

The dress was on display at the recent exhibition of Grace Kelly's clothes at the V&A.

It's made from a beautiful fabric in a colour which was a favourite of Grace's.

Grace inspecting her trousseau.

Before the official state wedding, there was a civil wedding ceremony. She wore a beautiful rose pink taffeta suit covered in Alencon lace designed by Helen Rose, white gloves, and a Juliet cap.

Now, the Mass wedding dress is probably my favourite wedding dress of all time. It's timeless, conservative and elegant and suited Grace perfectly. It was the most expensive dress Helen Rose ever made, being valued at more than $7,200 at the time. It took 36 seamstresses 6 weeks to make in secret.

The dress was an ivory, high-necked, long-sleeved gown with a bodice with an attached under bodice and skirt support. There were two petticoats, one being an attached foundation. The fitted bodice was overlaid with 125 year old rose print Brussels lace which was embroidered with seed pearls. The bell skirt was made of silk taffeta, peau de soie, tulle and lace. The circular veil was made of 90 years of tulle, highlighted with seed pearls and lace, and fixed to a small fitted headpiece. 25 yards of silk taffeta and 100 yards of silk net were used in the construction of the dress. The wedding attire also included a lace and pearl encrusted prayer book which she carried down the aisle. After the ceremony, Grace donated the gown to the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Under her wedding gown, Grace's petticoats had tiny blue satin bows.

The book she carried during the cermony was Bride's Manual: A Manual of Catholic Devotion with Mass for the Marriage Ceremony and the Nuptial Blessing which was covered and decorated to match the dress by the MGM wardrobe studio.

Her hair was styled by Sydney Guilaroff, one of Marilyn Monroe's favourite hairdressers and worked with Greta Garbo, Greer Garson, Judy Garland (he styled her hair for The Wizard of Oz), Elizabeth Taylor, Joan Crawford, Norma Shearer, Hedy Lamarr, Ava Gardner, Lana Turner, Lena Horne, Debbie Reynolds, Kathryn Grayson, Ann-Margret among others.

Here is the original design for the wedding dress, and photo of the designer, Helen Rose, working on Grace's mannequin.

Joseph Hong of Neiman Marcus designed the bridesmaids' dresses, and Priscilla of Boston made them.
They were made of yellow silk organdy in a shade called sunlight, which was worn over a yellow silk taffeta underdress.

The shoes were designed by David Evins of New York.
A copper penny was built into the right shoe for good luck.

I hope you enjoyed this dress fest as much as I did in compiling it. I really recommend the books, Grace Kelly Icon of Style to Royal Brid e, and Grace Kelly Style, which accompanied the V&A exhibition. Many thanks to the excellent resource and tribute to Grace - Grace Kelly Online, they have pages and trivia about the wedding. Also this post at Disco Nap for some photos.

My Mum is a bit poorly at the moment with respiratory problems so I'm not sure if and when I'll be able to post again for the next week or so, depending on how she is.

Instagraming around Cornwall

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Thu, 01 Mar 2012 11:38:00 +0000

I took my dogs to the beach yesterday and ended up making a spontaneous visit to Porthcurno, Porthgwarra and St Levan, partly as research for the book that my Mum and I are trying to put together. Without my camera, I took some hipster photos on my phone. I love Instagram far too much. One of my favourite places was a little cave at Porthgwarra which looked like a face from the outside. It reminded me of the Gnome King in Return to Oz, only less scary. I just about managed to climb inside while wearing dress and heels, which was slightly awkward. Next time I really should plan ahead. There was a tiny window inside the tiny cave and now I'm desperate to find out what the cave's purpose was. Maybe a shelter for fishermen or smugglers?

The cove at Porthgwarra (shown in the photos above) is famous for a rather sad ghost story, posted here courtesy of Haunted Britain.

A small path ascends from the tiny hamlet of Porthgwarra, and twists through the bracken to arrive at the windswept cliff top of Hella Point where the bleak desolation of the surroundings set the brooding backdrop for a tragic tale.

A local farmers daughter named Nancy fell in love with sailor called William. The relationship, however, was frowned upon by the girls parents and they forbade her to meet with him again.

But, shortly before her lover was due to rejoin his ship, the two managed a clandestine meeting in the pretty weave lashed cove at Porthgwarra, which ever after became known as "Sweethearts Cove." There the lovers pledged their undying love and vowed to meet again when William returned from his voyage.

Following their tearful farewell, Nancy would pace the headland around Hella Point gazing out across the wild ocean watching and waiting for her lovers return. But as the months rolled by their came no word of him and the poor girl sank into a deep depression. Day after day she would stand on the windswept and rugged cliff top looking seaward, and her parents and neighbours could only watch helplessly unable to help in any way.

Then, one stormy night, an old woman walking along the cliff top glanced down to the cove and saw Nancy sitting on a rock in the cove, the foaming waves breaking around her. She rushed down to warn her of the rising tide but was surprised as she approached to see a sailor sitting on the rock alongside her. As she watched, the waves lifted the tow from the rock and carried them out to sea. Nancy was never seen again and, soon after, word came that at the time the old woman had witnessed the lovers together William's ship had sunk and all on board had drowned.

It IS a sad story. The farm where Nancy lived is in Porthgwarra somewhere but with two bouncy dogs in tow, I couldn't go off wandering on the cliffs to find it. Maybe next time, without the kamikaze dogs. It's a lovely cove and though it's privately owned, there is parking nearby and the cove is open for people to swim and have picnics.

Afterwards, I went off to St Levan then which has an amazing medieval church with some rather strange stories. St Levan's Stone in the churchyard is a large stone which is split into two separate pieces. According to legend, when a pack horse can ride through St Levan’s Stone, then the world will end. Now, it's a sizeable gap, but I doubt anyone is going to fit a horse through it any time soon.

I was looking for the grave of Captain Richard Wetheral(l?) of Scilly who drowned in the shipwreck of the Aurora at Land’s End on December 18th 1811. There is a legend that those who are doomed to die within a year can hear the sound of a ship’s bell from his grave. In a way, I'm glad I didn't find it but I know I'll have to at some point as research for the book. *frightened face*

There's a photo up there somewhere of the Telegraph Museum at Porthcurno where Britain was linked with the rest of the world through the submarine communications cables in the 19th century.

So, pretty nice day really and a bit of a history lesson. The weather was lovely but it's still freezing here and I have chilblains on my toes at the moment. Keep wearing those thick socks, everyone! Learn from my mistakes.

Teatotal

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Thu, 23 Feb 2012 11:00:00 +0000

I have swapped a terrible addiction for coffee for a terrible addiction to herbal teas at the moment, especially ones with pretty packaging.

Style Icons - The GTOs

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:06:00 +0000

The GTOs (standing for "Girls Together Outrageously") were a group in the late 60s consisting of Miss Pamela (Pamela Ann Miller, later Pamela Des Barres), Miss Sparky (Linda Sue Parker), Miss Lucy (Lucy Offerall, later Lucy McLaren), Miss Christine (Christine Frka), Miss Sandra (Sandra Lynn Rowe, later Sandra Leano), Miss Mercy (Mercy Fontenot, aka Judith Edra Peters) and Miss Cynderella (Cynthia Wells, later Cynthia Cale-Binion).

I love how imaginative and unique they are. I found some quotes from them about their style in an old magazine article. I think it's very inspiring, especially given the current "make and mend" philosophy online. The craft and DIY blogs around are so inspiring.

"Miss Christine sews most of her clothes, including the basic silver-with-glitter number (see photo below with pink velvet overcoat). 'The way people dress is too plain, too simple.' The GTOs do not dress plainly or simply. Obviously."

"Miss Cynderella - 'We were all weird in high school. We first got together and became friends because of the way we dressed.' GTO clothes are found in thrift shops, antique stores, and Good Will boutiques, then put together with maximum imagination. Their favourite clothes supplier is the Glass Farmhouse in Los Angeles, where items range from fifty cents to five dollars (some things are higher) and where the girls found most of the sartorial splendour."

"Miss Sandra spends 'a while' on her eye and navel makeup. The first GTO album will materialize any day now, with the probable title of Permanent Damage. Sandra's baby will materialize later. It probably won't be called Permanent Damage. (If it's a boy it will be Crayon, if it's a girl, Crayola.)" - I found out that she called her baby girl, Raven in the end. *breathes a sigh of relief* :)

Favourite things since my last post

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 04:33:00 +0000

1. Dyeing my hair. (This photo was taken a few months ago during my "blue period" but this is a regular occurrence. :D) Might stick with blonde for now though.

2. My studio space being reasonably tidy.

3. Gregory Peck on the warpath.

4. Working! My sketch of the Vogue UK cover for March. (link)

5. Lomography!

6. This photo of one of my dogs, Pook!

7. Driving at night.

8. Truro Cathedral and the surrounding mish-mash of architecture.

9. Caving in and buying an iPhone.

It's been a while since I last posted but I've had a lot of unblogworthy things going on lately. In a fit of organisation, I've decided to move posts on my own illustration work to another blog - http://lauraloveday.blogspot.com/. I've also been busy with work and sorting a new site for my portfolio using Behance Pro. It's much cleaner and easier to update and I highly recommend it for anyone with an online portfolio. It's as painless as it gets and very reasonable.

Finally, it's been html a go-go on all fronts as I've also had a tweak of this blog to try and pretty it up a bit. Seeing all the beautiful, inspiring blogs on the interwebz has made me think that I should make more of an effort with mine and give it more direction. I'd like to have more dressmaking and crafting posts on here so hopefully that will show in upcoming posts.

The other exciting thing is that I'm writing a book with my mum! No, really! It's a collection of ghost stories from the area I live in so we're busy compiling, researching, writing, visiting places, taking photos and illustrating. We have a really clear idea in our heads of what we would like the book to be like and it's something a bit different to the norm, I think, and in a good way! My mum brought me up on ghost stories (which explains a lot of my general weirdness) so it's really lovely to be creating my own book as a joint effort with her.

Hope you're all keeping well. Take care. xxx

Enid Coleslaw

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 15:25:00 +0000

"I can't relate to 99% of humanity."

Really quick sketch of Enid Coleslaw from Ghost World for Bearded Eloise. The sketch got wrecked by my insane dog who trampled all over it with muddy paws. I don't think it's a tragedy of the modern age, it just means I have to draw another Enid.

The Scarlet Empress Costume Designs

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Sun, 29 Jan 2012 22:29:00 +0000

I found some costume designs by Travis Banton for Marlene Dietrich's Catherine the Great in The Scarlet Empress. I watched the film again a few weeks ago but unfortunately my copy is not good enough to take screencaps from. It's a wonderful film - historically a bit suspect, but it's beautifully shot by Josef von Sternberg and it has some of the greatest props and sets I've ever seen. There are looming grotesque figures all over the place. It's enough to put you off your dinner.

{via Innergenre}

The film itself reminds me of the Garbo vehicle, Queen Christina, which came out in 1933, a year before The Scarlet Empress was made. So (I'm speculating here) perhaps The Scarlet Empress was a further attempt by Paramount's to make Dietrich their own version of MGM's Garbo?

Speaking of the costumes, one in particular is also very similar to Adrian's designs for Queen Christina. I'll put photos of each for you to compare. I just find it quite interesting.

Adrian's Design for Greta Garbo in Queen Christina, 1933.

{via Doctor Macro}

Finally this costume for Marlene Dietrich is rather iconic. Dietrich mentions it in her biography:

The younger generation raves about The Scarlet Empress. Young people write to me, and talk about the costumes - particularly about my boots which, moreover, were white! – and other impressive details of the work they seem to understand thoroughly ... much more than the public of that time.

{via freiheitskrieg.com}

Now, I wouldn't compare it to Adrian's design for Queen Christina. The only similarity between these two designs is that they are both military-esque affairs with trousers and boots.

I very much recommend this blog post by Innergenre for screencaptures, and Criterion Collection for an excellent review of the film.

RIP Etta James

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Fri, 20 Jan 2012 17:10:00 +0000

Rest in peace, Etta, and thank you.

{'Sweet Etta James' by Bluemovers}

{via: oldhandbills}

Style Icon: Tippi Hedren

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Fri, 20 Jan 2012 01:41:00 +0000

I meant to post this yesterday but here is a little Happy Birthday post for Tippi Hedren, who was 82 yesterday. I managed to do a quick sketch in my moleskine of her in The Birds just in time in celebration of a lovely lady whose work in philanthropy and animal rescue and preservation is truly inspiring. For some reason I drew her being attacked by a crow. Never mind.

{via: digitalhuckle]

{via: digitalhuckle}

{via: music2myears]

{via: humanesocietyoftheunitedstates}

Sherlock - Irene Adler's Costumes

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 09:00:00 +0000

Like many people, I'm a bit Sherlock mad at the moment. The second series of the BBC series has just started here in the UK (well, the final episode airs on Sunday), so I thought I'd do a post on Irene Adler's character from episode one, "A Scandal in Belgravia". Irene had a femme fatale style, so I couldn't resist.

Thankfully I found a site called Wear Sherlock which is dedicated to identifying all costumes and props shown in the series, so here I am, shamelessly stealing their information. I hope they don't mind. Their site is a fantastic treasure trove and I highly recommend that you visit it.

Going by the prices of Irene's clothes and bits and bobs, like all the other characters in the series, she obviously has very deep pockets, especially for her phone. These things ain't cheap, but would we expect any less?

Phone: Vertu Constellation Quest smart phone £17,300 / $26,835 (LINK)

Shoes: Christian Louboutin Big Stack 120 pumps £495 / $763 (LINK)

Dress: Alexander McQueen 'Illusion' Sheath Dress £1,112 / $1,725 (LINK)

I love this dress. I'm not the biggest fan of Sarah Burton's work but this is gorgeous, sophisticated choice by the costume designer. The faux bolero adds a military and slightlyVictorian feel while still being very contemporary.

I was quite taken by Irene's make up so I took a few screencaps. It's a bit of a modern film noir look - foundation, blusher, a very subtle sweep of grey eyeshadow through the socket and winging under her eyes, mascara, aqua eyeliner instead of typical black, and red lips.

These make up suggestions are just what I would choose to get this sort of look. The BBC make up team probably used liquid eyeliner but ho hum. This eyeliner looks very like liquid eyeliner, but has the bonus of being a pencil. Happy days.

The eyes reminded me of Mermaiden's recent tutorial for Anna Karina's make up in Une Femme est une Femme, 1961.

Milani's Liquif-Eye Metallic Eye Liner in 'Aqua'.

Chanel Rouge Allure lipstick in 'Passion' is a appropriately siren-esque colour. A bit of a darker and blue-ish shade than this red shown above and a much closer to whatever was used in the series.

I've since spoken to the wonderful Megan Cumberwire (for that is her name) and she suggested Mac liquid or gel eyeliner in 'Aqualine' and an alternative by GOSH which is a bit cheaper - Extreme Art Eyeliner in 11 Aqua which "is identical".Thanks Megan!

Oh, and the Irene's riding crop is apparently the same one used by Sherlock in the mortuary in series 1.

Mark Todd Braided Leather Riding Crop £33 / $51 (LINK)

At last! Something affordable and useful!

Thanks again to Wear Sherlock. Bookmark/follow that site!

Rear Window Costume Designs

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 16:11:00 +0000

Today I have a quick post of some costume designs by Edith Head for Grace Kelly's character in Hitchcock's Rear Window with some accompanying photos of the finished costumes. I took the scans unless stated otherwise.

Hopefully I'll have time soon to do a more in-depth look into the costumes and take screencaps, do proper research, etc. I have a stash of Edith Head books hidden away somewhere...

I truly can't remember where I found this photo. I didn't scan it. If the person who did wants credit then please let me know.

{Photo via Doctor Macro}

{Photo via Forever Classics}

{Photo via The Hollywood Revue}

{Photo via Doctor Macro}

On my travels around the internet I came across this special edition Barbie doll of Grace in Rear Window. Now, I'm no doll collector but this has inspired some serious doll lust in my tired, battered heart.

{via the Mattel website]

Book Review - Dressing Marilyn

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Tue, 10 Jan 2012 13:46:00 +0000

Dressing Marilyn: How a Hollywood icon was styled by William Travilla

- Andrew Hansford with Karen Homer

As a collector of Hollywood related books, especially those on Marilyn Monroe, I was excited to hear that there would be a book published to coincide with recent tour of Travilla's costumes. Travilla is most famous for being Marilyn Monroe's (and many other leading ladies') favourite costume designer.

He was responsible for some of the most famous dresses of all time including the pink dress worn during "Diamonds are a Girl's Best Friend" routine in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, and the white dress which was caught by a gust of wind by the subway in The Seven Year Itch. I received this book as soon as it was published but have only just had time to review it now and give my unbiased opinion as a fashion history and Marilyn nerd.

Firstly, the book itself is a lovely addition to any bookshelf. It's a hardback and the design is based on the pink dress from Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, the design of which features on the cover. Under the jacket, the book is bound in a lace print and is pink inside.

The text is lovingly written, first as an account of the life and career of William Travilla which include some interesting accompanying photos, such as a telegram from Errol Flynn thanking Travilla and congratulating him on his Oscar for his costume design work on Don Juan. It offers insight into the workings of the costume department in the studios in the golden era and reads very nicely. Of course, the focus of the book is Travilla's designs for Marilyn Monroe and their relationship is comprehensively covered. They were obviously very close, having worked together on eight of her films. She wrote a note to him which read - "Billy Dear, please dress me forever. I love you, Marilyn."

The book is, of course, beautifully illustrated with his superb costume designs, which are rather reminiscent of Rene Gruau's fashion illustrations. Along with these are photos of the original dress patterns which have survived fire and flooding over the years, and photographs of the dresses themselves. I think all the gowns featured are the original dresses, or prototypes, worn by Marilyn. I know that for the tour, some of the gowns were remade from his original patterns for display as the originals are now much too fragile and precious for a tour. Also, most of them are in various collections around the world. Thankfully, the owners allowed the authors to have photographs taken for the purpose of this book.

Cut for length. Click on the "read more" below for the whole post.

Marilyn Monroe's mannequin alongside others in Travilla's studio in the 50s.

Travilla's design for the "Two Little Girls from Little Rock" routine in "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes".

Costume design for the "Sunburst" dress, originally designed for a scene in "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes" but was deigned too risque for the screen. You see it briefly in a scene when she's dancing, from memory, I think with Piggy.

The dress did however become famous after being featured in a photoshoot by Gene Kornman. Some of the most iconic images of Marilyn.

She also wore it for the Photoplay Awards in 1953 and incurred the wrath of Joan Crawford (for stealing her limelight). This caused a bit of a media storm at the time. The following year, Marilyn wore another version of this dress in silver lamé. Take that, Joan. I love you but jealousy is a terrible thing. The following photos are from my personal collection although the silver dress is covered in the book.

Marilyn at the 1954 Photoplay Awards in a silver lamé dress designed by Travilla.

There were a few version of the gold dress made. This one was worn by Ginger Rogers and is similar if not identical to a dress originally designed for Marilyn.

The original design for the dress above.

And another version was worn by Jayne Mansfield. I think this is probably the same dress worn by Marilyn in the Kornman shoot and for the '53 Photoplay Awards, only heavily altered.

The pattern for the "Sunburst" dress, the original illustration having later replaced by a photocopied photo. The book details how the fabric used is unavailable now and much care is needed when dealing with the dresses now. In my experience, lamé is a bitch of a material and frays terribly although it seems to hold the pleats in this dress well, even after all this time.

The dress featured in the book has a bow detail and the book says that this version of the dress was the one favoured by Marilyn and Travilla.

Costume design by Travilla for the "Diamonds are a Girl's Best Friend" routine in "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes". This design replaced one that was discarded by the studio, again for being too risque. I was pleased to see this discarded design covered in the book, and to hear of what became of it. At some point it was taken apart, the top used for a costume on another film. The bottom part still exists and there are photographs of it in the book.

The original costume for the "Diamonds are a Girl's Best Friend" routine.

The dress pattern for the pink dress. This dress is another feat of engineering. I remember reading somewhere how the pink satin fabric was interlined in something similar to the felt used for snooker tables and literally folded into shape.

This detail photo shows how the bow is held in place by transparent thread.

The belt is leather, covered with the pink fabric. These kinds of photos are invaluable. For years I've been studying this dress, pausing the film and staring at it trying to figure out how it was constructed. Again, I have to thank the authors for such a fantastic job on this book.

Here you can seen the difference Technicolor had on the intensity of the pink dress. These effects had to be taken into consideration by Travilla when picking out the fabrics.

This dress is from "How to Marry a Millionaire".

Costume design for one of the more glamourous scenes in "River of No Return". For the majority of the film, Marilyn wears jeans and a shirt.

Probably one of the most famous dresses of all time and one that Travilla described as "That silly little dress".

The shooting of this scene, with the dress blowing up over Marilyn's head and exposing her underwear was cause of a big rift between Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn as it was filmed infront of hundreds of onlookers. Joe stormed off the set.

The original pattern for the dress. It was reused by Travilla for some of his later fashion shows. The original dress, because it was pleated, was not cut on the bias as this pattern suggests.

This is the original dress worn by Marilyn in that scene. The fabric is more of a bone colour than white. Debbie Reynolds bought this dress after filming and sadly had to sell her collection of film memorabilia last year. This dress sold for $4,600,000 at auction.

A costume test of Marilyn in a dress from The Seven Year Itch. Another clever design, being innocent and erotic at the same time which shows what a fantastic designer Travilla was in designing for Marilyn.

The back of the "Tiger" dress from "The Seven Year Itch". This is a new photo for me and wonderful to see the back of this dress.

The costume for "Bus Stop"minus the tail, which Cherie would not be pleased about.

Unfortunately the costume is damaged. As you can see in the picture above, the original had obvious repairs figured into the design and these and some of the beading has been lost in the costume as it is today.

Milton Greene took many beautiful photos of Marilyn during the filming of "Bus Stop". This is one of my favourites.

This is a design for Marilyn who was to star in a film called "The Stripper". The designs are lovely and many more are included in the book. Marilyn didn't take part in the end. Although the film was thought up with her in mind, the studios obviously hadn't understood how Marilyn was trying to take roles which showed her as a serious actress. The film was made in 1963, renamed "Woman of Summer" starring Joanne Woodward.

Also featured in the book are photos of Marilyn in borrowed clothes from Travilla. While entertaining the troops in Korea (at the same time as being on Honeymoon with Joe DiMaggio) Marilyn took a few costumes with her as part of her personal wardrobe.

This Marilyn in Korea wearing a costume from "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes" as seen in a costume test below.

There's a lovely part in the book which shows a dress she brought back from a night out which is still marked by her lipstick and a dirt stain from when she brushed up against a car.

My views on the book is that it's an absolute joy. Both an interesting read, a wonderful tribute to Travilla and to Marilyn and I highly recommend it. It's very reasonable, being 20 pounds in the UK and when it's released in the US, the price will be 30 dollars.

Photos Over Christmas

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Mon, 09 Jan 2012 20:34:00 +0000

Some late photos from the Christmas period. First, our super skinny Christmas tree. The fairy on the top is from the 50s, I think. It was my Nan's and sadly lost her original skirt so I made her a new one for decencies sake out of some vintage fabric I had.

Then Christmas lights and St Ives in January! Mousehole in Cornwall have some of the best light displays in the country. Sadly my camera doesn't like taking night shots. More under the cut >>

This is Newlyn in Cornwall. I really loved the mermaid that winked at you. :)

Mousehole. Blast my camera but I hope you get the idea of how amazing the display was.

A lovely shop display in St Ives.

Yes, I think that's a camilla flowering. In January.

This gravestone had a beautiful dedication which I've attempted to decipher. It just shows how loved this lady was in life.

"Sleep well, sweet Maid! whom as black winter stole the fragrant bud of Spring, too Early (?) blown, untimely Death has nipped. Here take thy rose, inviolable here! While we than thou less favoured through the irksome vale of life toil on in tears without thee. Yet not long shall Death divide us! Rapid is the flight of life more rapid than the turtle's (dove) wings. And soon our bones shall meet. Here may we Sleep. Here wake together! and by his Dear might Who conquered Death for sinful man ascend. Forever hence to an Eternal home."

Thanks to Pugly Pixels for the scalloped clipping masks

Louise Brooks Greeting Card

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Mon, 09 Jan 2012 00:43:00 +0000

Finally got my new scanner working. I wonder why they have to make these things so complicated. Then again, a 5 year old could probably have figured it out within a few minutes but never mind.

Just to prove that I have been working, this is a rough of the first of a set of greeting cards featuring cinematic icons which are going to be added to my new shop soon, complete with glitter.

The Ghost and Mrs Muir Costume Design

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Sun, 08 Jan 2012 10:55:00 +0000

For those lucky enough to have seen it, The Ghost and Mrs Muir is gentle comedy classic of the forties. It's often compared to Pandora and the Flying Dutchman although the latter is a much darker film and practically devoid of humour. The two films do, however, share similar elements plot-wise; mainly that one of the leads is alive and one is dead. :)

It's a story with some Wildean or Shaw-esque moments concerning a young widow who takes a house on the coast with her daughter and servant despite being warned against the property by the estate agent. Desperate to start a new life for herself without repression, she soon learns that the place is haunted by the previous owner; a sea captain who is initially none to pleased to find her in his house. Eventually they befriend each other and when Mrs Muir encounters some financial difficulties, they write a book together - a biography of his life.

I don't want to say any more incase I spoil it for anyone who hasn't seen it yet, but it has many wonderful attributes - Gene Tierney, Rex Harrison and George Sanders are wonderful in it, and a very young Natalie Wood acts as Mrs Muir's daughter. There is also a beautiful score by Bernard Herrmann which is worth watching the film for all in itself.

Anyway, to the costumes. I'll just do a really quick overview notes on most of the costumes with some screencaptures I took from a (pretty rubbishy quality) print I have of the film. The costumes are a lovely blend of turn of the century and forties fashion which are cleverly integrated so the overall effect is of period dress. The official costume designer on the film was Eleanor Behm but the costume designer for Gene Tierney's wardrobe was Oleg Cassini, who happened to be her husband at the time. There might have been a collaboration between the two designers, although somehow I doubt it.

Click on any of the pictures for larger versions.

Gene Tierney in her mourning clothes. This is a boned bodice and skirt. It's very harsh, restraining and stiff design, almost armour-like in its fit which fits in with Mrs Muir's feeling of oppression at this point.

A long cape with slit sleeves which are edged in pom pom braid over a black travelling suit with braid on the lapels. The hat is so sweet and quirky while still having the pretensions of being a mourning hat with a veil. I don't know why it makes me laugh. It suits Mrs Muir - it's so perky. There's something humourous about it. Many mourning hats look quite terrifying.

This is a costume I couldn't get very good captures of. It's a plain mourning dress with a lace collar and cuffs.

She's ditched her widow's weeds now and is wearing a blouse with a lace collar and a high waisted plaid skirt. The skirt is interestingly cut at the back and seems to be piped at each seam.

A lovely suit with jet buttons. The skirt is cut in a similar if not the same way as the plaid skirt above.

Another nice blouse with some frou frou going on. That is a technical term. Yes.

This is probably the most famous costume as there were lots of stills taken of Gene wearing this suit. It's a wool with a small check and pom pom braid edging. The cut around the shoulders is reminiscent of both the wide forties shoulder and the cut of a Victorian cape so it's a very clever design. There is a comment in the film about the impracticability of her hat.

A light cotton summer dress with gorgeous tucks at the back which ease out to a wide, floaty skirt. Again, the design is both forties and Victorian/Edwardian with the fullness at the bust and sleeves and a closely fitting waist so it has that S-shape while still being something that viewers of the forties would think of as being a romantic dress.

This dress has an interesting texture to the sleeves if you can see the slightly corrugated look to it. A pretty lacework yoke keeps the design very conservative and true to a typical period day dress. In fact it's really only the undergarments that make the bodice of this dress look forties.

Appliqued suit of a bolero jacket and matching skirt with a silk blouse. The shoulders are emphasised slightly more than would be period but that's the forties influence.

I love this dress. It reminds me of a chemise à la reine as it's so light and pretty. It looks like a sheer silk with some stiffness so it will hold that sleeve shape.

That plaid skirt earlier on in the film has a matching jacket! It's really beautifully tailored and it could easily have fit in with forties fashions. It's only the skirt shape and length which ties it down to the turn of the century. The contrast velvet lapel is a nice touch as is the mixing of fabrics - plaid, lace and velvet.

While researching for this post I found a moan on IMDB about how the costumes late on in the film don't look like the teens/twenties clothes of when it was set, but look like forties fashions. This isn't necessarily true. You have to watch these films bearing in mind that authenticity wasn't a major concern at the time. The suit in question had a dropped waist, so it referenced the twenties. People had a visual trigger to let them know that a considerable amount of time had passed. Her daughter's suit is very forties looking, but again, there's a reason for that. I think it's to make her look much younger than her mother.

You had designers like Adrian who would go out of their way and fight with Studio Heads to make the costumes look period, but overall it was fairly rare and costume designers were encouraged to design clothes which would be attractive to the general population. Most viewers were content with designs that referenced the period, but for instance the corseted shapes of the Victorian era were not considered attractive and this was figured into designs.

You can't overestimate the importance of fashion in films during this period. Costume designs often set a trend. These films weren't historical documentaries, they were stories from the Dream Factory leading right into the 60s and beyond. Just look at Elizabeth Taylors costumes in Cleopatra in 1963 - never have there been such un-Egyptian looking clothes. The original designs were scrapped and redesigned for costumes that were not as historically accurate.

We shouldn't watch old films with an overly critical and scrutinising eye. I liken it to when a candle is lit in a dark room in old films and it's like ten 60 watt bulbs have been turned on. It's so we can see what's going on. The storytelling is the important thing. The fact that the costumes are inaccurate says a lot about the film industry at the time and the psychology and needs of the film going public.

End rant. :) Hope you enjoyed the post.

Thanks to Doctor Macro, AlloCiné and Tumblr for some of the stills.

Eve Arnold

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Sat, 07 Jan 2012 09:01:00 +0000

Very sad to hear of the death of Eve Arnold yesterday. A photographer with Magnum, she had the rare ability to capture humanity and vulnerability, even beneath the glamour of Hollywood stars. Her photographs are poignant and beautiful, whatever the subject. I thought I'd post a kind of small retrospective in her memory as one of the greatest photographers whose work means a great deal to me.

Eve Arnold with Joan Crawford

Joan Crawford

Gloria Swanson

Paul Newman

Marlene Dietrich

Richard Burton & Elizabeth Taylor

Marilyn Monroe & Clark Gable

Marilyn Monroe during a John Houston led Casino game

Joan Crawford

Harlem Fashion Show, 1963

Terrence Stamp

Marlene Dietrich

Eve Arnold

Hang the DJ: Born to Die - Lana Del Rey

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 09:31:00 +0000

Really beautiful video to go with a lovely song.

Interview with the Vampire Mixtape

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Sat, 31 Dec 2011 18:25:00 +0000

Scary cover. Yes.

I've been reading Anne Rice's Vampire Chronicles again lately. Very Christmassy, I know. I remember it being a bit of a revelation for me when I was at school so rereading them has been wonderful. Lestat is one of the greatest characters in modern fiction in my opinion (although I think he becomes a bit of a drip further into the series) and Tom Cruise plays him perfectly in the film of Interview with a Vampire. Let's not mention the film of Queen of the Damned. Good grief. Let's just pretend that didn't happen. Anyway, my point is, Rice's vampires are proper vampires and they DON'T SPARKLE! Ahem.

The film of Interview with a Vampire made me obsessive about costume design, which led into fashion design, so it's been quite formative in retrospect. Lestat is a bit of a style icon for me. He's wonderful. In the books, he suddenly forgets about the plot in favour of a long description of what he's wearing.

So, over Christmas, my Mum and I decided that instead of playing charades, we should make a mixtape for the first book as she's also been reading them. There's hardly any gothic music on it, so there's a plus. No apologies for the inclusion of a Queen song because no one should ever have to apologise for using a Queen song on a mixtape.

Download link, photos (gory and otherwise so don't say I didn't warn you), lyrics and all kinds of rubbish under the cut. Some of the images are spoiler-ish if you haven't seen the film.

So now my holidays have ended so I'll stop making mixtapes and get back to drawing and exciting things again.

Happy New Year everyone! I hope 2012 is a good one for you. xxx

From the dawn of time to the end of days

I will have to run away

I want to feel the pain and the bitter taste

Of the blood on my lips again

- Iron ~ Woodkid

Quietly he laughs, and shaking his head

Creeps closer now, closer to the foot of the bed

And softer than shadow and quicker than flies

his arms are all around me and his tongue in my eyes

"Be still, be calm, be quiet now, my precious boy.

Don't struggle like that or I will only love you more.

For it's much too late to get away or turn on the light.

The spider man is having you for dinner tonight."

- Lullaby ~ The Cure

2046 Main Theme ~ Peer Raben and Shigeru Umebayashi (instrumental)

I'm the fury in your head

I'm the fury in your bed

I'm the ghost in the back of your head

Forget the horror here

Leave it all down here

It's future rust and it's future dust

- Spanish Sahara ~ Foals

So, choose your last words

This is the last time

'Cause you and I

We were born to die

- Born to Die ~Lana Del Rey

'Cos life is long and it's tremendous

And we're glad that you're here with us

And since we know an end will come

It makes our living

fun

- Death to Everyone ~ Bonnie "Prince" Charlie

The blood has run out

Fangs ruin any cute pout

- Transylvanian Concubine ~ Rasputina

'Death and the Maiden' (II) [String Quartet in D Minor] - Schubert

Did the Devil make the world when God was sleeping?

She always had that little drop of poison

- Little Drop of Poison ~ Tom Waits

Blood roses, blood roses back on the street now
Can't forget the things you never said
And on days like these it starts me thinking
When the chickens get a taste of your meat, girl
You gave him your blood and your warm little diamond
He likes killing you after you're dead
God knows I've thrown away those graces

- Blood Roses ~ Tori Amos

I want you to know
He's not coming back
Look into my eyes
It's the only way you'll know I'm telling the truth
So knives out
Cut him up

- Knives out ~ Radiohead

[I want to believe that the anamatronic Dead!Lestat is out there somewhere. Preferably in a restaurant or a supermarket or in Brooke Shields' house.]

Lacrimosa (instrumental) ~ Kalafina

But touch my tears with your lips

Touch my world with your fingertips

And we can have forever

- Who Wants to Live Forever ~ Queen

I'm living in an age that calls darkness light
Though my language is dead still the shapes fill my head
I'm living in an age whose name I don't know
Though the fear keeps me moving
Still my heart beats so slow

- My Body is a Cage ~ Arcade Fire

Piano Sonata no.59 in E Flat
HOB.XVI:49, II. Adagio e cantabile
~ Haydn

(Lestat's little ditty from the film starts at 3:38.)

Download link - http://www.megaupload.com/?d=PZSD8EWS (zip 121MB)

Don't Go to Strangers...

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Fri, 23 Dec 2011 03:50:00 +0000

Miscellaneous recent-ish photos. I really should take more photos but since we seem to get about half an hour of daylight at the moment (I might be exaggerating) I just haven't gotten around to it. I'm hoping to take some photos of the Mousehole Christmas lights and post them before Christmas. Until then, I hope you're looking forward to the holiday. xxx

Vintage Knitters

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Thu, 08 Dec 2011 23:05:00 +0000

Every December I start knitting again. It's not something I feel like doing during the summer months but a resolution for the new year is to finish at least one pair of the dozens of half-made socks and gloves I have lying around. I found some photos of famous knitters to inspire me.

These photos came from flickr, onesheepishgirl.blogspot.com, pinetrest, thisismarilyn, selfish-company and corbis.

Paloma Faith Sketch

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Sun, 20 Nov 2011 08:49:00 +0000

Two posts in one day - oh no! I'm not sure whether to open another blog for my sketches. Am I spamming anyone? Anyway, a friend on Twitter suggested Paloma Faith as a good person to draw. This is the final sketch done, I just need to colour it in now and jazz it up an' that. I'm always worried about ruining the sketch through colouring.

(click for higher-res)

Laura xxx

Hang the DJ: This Boy (remastered) The Beatles

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Sun, 20 Nov 2011 08:00:00 +0000

This is one of my favourite songs. Some days I find that I've just had this on repeat for hours. It's a great way to start the day. Enjoy your Sunday!

Wishlist Weekend! Smoking Lips

noreply@blogger.com (Laura) — Sat, 19 Nov 2011 10:00:00 +0000

1. Black Swarovski Crystallised Lips Clutch, Lulu Guinness, £650.00
2. Anne Taintor 2012 Engagement Diary, (amazon.co,uk), £7.35
2.Smoking Lip Jacket, Holly Fulton (at matchesfashion.com), £400.00
3. Black Peep Toe Stud Ankle Boots, River Island, £70.00
5. PU panel leggings, River Island (at ASOS) £25.00
6. Crystal Lips ring, st8tement.co.uk, £16.00
7. Beauté Weightless Lip Crème in 'Masochist' (at love-makeup.co.uk), £19.00
8. EyeStudio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner in 01 Black, Maybellene (at Boots), £7.99
9. Hamster Racer Set, Firebox.com, £18.99-£31.99

This was based around the Holly Fulton jacket. She's one of my favourite designers at the moment. This jacket was inspired by the romance between Coco Chanel and Hugh Grosvenor, the Duke of Westminster. The A/W collection is gorgeous. I wish I had the money to invest in a piece. The 'smoking gun' dress is fantastic! (link)

As a vegetarian, I try to avoid leather shoes but I couldn't find any in the limited time I had for a search. Still, these are lovely shoes. I think Louboutin shoes would be perfect with the red sole.

And aaagh! I couldn't resist the hamster car, it just made me laugh so much. You can buy a racing track for it like scaletrix. I don't have a hamster or gerbil but being in a racing car must be a pretty amazing experience for them. It still fits in with the Rock 'n' Roll theme I suppose. :)