THIGHS BIGGER THAN YOUR HEAD

Spring Reds

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Thu, 17 Mar 2011 00:01:00 +0000

I've spoken about my affinity for red before. I'm excited for spring because I can finally start wearing this Gant Rugger cotton "varsity" jacket I picked up last season. It fits me damn near perfectly (an XL), and it's a good weight for chilly spring nights worn over a sweater or just a shirt on a sunny day. Stylistically, I like it because it's kind of a cross between a traditional wool/leather varsity letterman jacket (which is a bit too young for my taste) and a Harrington (which is a bit too old for my taste).

Don't worry, Dragon's got me.

On Beardedness...

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Thu, 17 Feb 2011 17:28:00 +0000

What is this man hiding?

With regard to presenting yourself, the hair on your face is nearly as important as the clothes on your back and the shoes on your feet. I've seen enough terrible facial hair to realize that it is quite noticeable, likely moreso that the clothes you wear. Seriously, there isn't much worse than terrible facial hair (ie. scraggly, flesh-colored, soul patches, line beards, most goatees, etc.). I most highly respect a full beard and I can only support partial styles in special cases.

If you haven't figured it out by now, or haven't seen a recent photo of my face, I currently have a beard. I am a seasonal beard-grower because I enjoy being both bearded and clean-shaven. Also being bearded in hot summer months can sometimes be uncomfortable.

Either way, I'm very much a beard supporter, provided it looks good. Coverage is one of the ultimate qualifiers for how good a beard is. Unfortunately, this is a genetic trait over which man has no control. This is why I believe every man owes it to his ancestors to, at some point in his life, attempt to grow a beard. If you can go days without shaving and nobody can tell, beardedness may not be for you. Still, I implore you to try. If you shave everyday, every other day, or twice a day, you stand a decent chance. Give it four to six weeks, keeping the trimming minimal. For beard growing strategy abound, visit All About Beards (beards.org). This is where I gleaned the knowledge to grow and maintain my first solid beard. It is an excellent resource for anyone thinking of growing a beard and covers topics that you wouldn't really think of. For example, establishing a good neckline (highly underrated). At the very least it has a gallery of user-submitted beard progress (and some pretty epic beards). Don't bother looking for me on it because I've never submitted any photos.

Anyway, for the sake of brevity, I'm not going to delve into the history of beardedness. I think Brent of The Art of Manliness does a pretty good job in this video. Right now, beards seem to be slightly waning in popularity although popularity is still pretty high. Regardless of the fashionably of beards in mainstream popular culture, I still believe that men should grow them (because they can, dammit!). I also think that facial hair can be worn in earnest (as opposed to ironically) and that hipster culture has all but destroyed the image of the modern mustache.

Aside: I used to worry about whether women would be repelled by my beardedness until I realized that it doesn't matter. In my experience, while most women wouldn't prefer their man to be bearded, those who do are way more enthusiastic about it. Plus, if she doesn't like you for you, she's not worth it anyway.

Anyway, I'm not just ramblingly waxing poetic about beards. This has a point, right? I'll stop beating around the bush. I wrote this personal endorsement of beards because of something that's been bothering me for a while now. This:


Who is this guy? Is he a secret agent?

In the most literal sense, I suppose this statement is true. Facial hair usually obscures the skin on the wearer's face. However, it is clear that this is an unsubstantiated slight against facial hair owners. This statement is analogous to saying that men without facial hair have nothing to hide. This is why I will never be buying a book (or anything) from Mr. Lamond (although I may be unknowingly supporting him as he is a television producer and writer). While he is free to one day teach his son to distrust men with facial hair, I will not turn a blind eye to his public recommendation, however indirect, to do the same. Nor will I teach my future unborn son to suspect something of his fellow man based upon appearances. Also, you can argue that based upon the careful wording of his above statement that it isn't expressly negative but Mr. Lamond says in an interview he with did with The Art of Manliness:

"You know, it’s funny when people feel like they are getting criticized for their personal style, it can get a little touchy. I have a thing against facial hair. My dad always taught me that men with facial hair have something to hide." (Source)

From father to son, from father to son, and so on and so on. Is this what we want? Generations of unquestioning beard antagonists? Because of his vast audience due to the popularity of his book and the accompanying Tumblr and Twitter accounts (25K+ and 6.2K+ followers, respectively, at time of publication), Mr. Lamond has a responsibility to to treat men with facial hair with more respect. It is truly a shame that he chose to include this "rule" because I actually think most of the others I've read to be rather clever and quite good.

For the record, I do feel like I am being criticized for my personal style. I might feel differently if the statement against facial hair had been either witty or humorous or both. Instead the claim is admittedly baseless and also insensitive. It only adds insult to injury that the Rules for My Unborn Son logo is a boy preparing to shave...

Man-Sized Jeans, ACL x Telason Denim

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Tue, 01 Feb 2011 21:03:00 +0000

Big dudes rejoice: the One-man Americana Army, Michael Williams of A Continuous Lean has teamed up with Tellason to create an exclusive pair of denim for those of us who, to quote the immortal Jay-Z, "can't wear skinny jeans cause [our] knots don't fit".

Williams's explains the sizing:

The ACL Fit as it became known...has a slightly higher rise in the front, a higher rise in the back, a bit of a wider leg and runs straight from the knee to the leg opening. It is a true straight leg jean...In the true spirit of America we even made sure to run the jeans up to a size 40 — so man-sized MF’ers don’t feel left out.

Although the photos in the ACL webshop make them look enormous, I've compared the size chart to that of my beloved Epaulet Hoyts and in comparison, the ACL x Telason jeans have a more generous waist, a higher total rise by a little more than 0.5", identical thigh measurements, and about 0.75" larger leg opening. They also have a shorter inseam, between 33 and 34" depending on what size you order.

In the typical ACL fashion, everything is made in America, including the leather patch, supplied by Tanner Goods. Denim is sourced from the seemingly now standard Cone Mills. All the standard accoutrements are there too (five pocket design, button fly, etc.).

They retail for $198 in the ACL Shop (which I suppose is a bit steep for American denim but not much comes close in terms of size aside from a repro pair of LVCs).

How to Shrink To Fit (STF) your Levi's

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Fri, 10 Dec 2010 23:06:00 +0000

Being a vocal and ardent supporter of Levi's, particularly the rigid 501 shrink-to-fit model, I get many questions about sizing and methods for shrinkage of said jeans. So many such that I feel it necessary to create a document to point to should anyone else ask.
So here it is, the definitive TBTYH guide to STF Levi's.

What we're workin' with.

A quick disclaimer, this is my proven method for myself. You may find it doesn't work for you because of your body type/size. If you're here because your thighs/butt are big, this should work for you in general. Some of my internet friends have reported to me that they've actually had to size up in 501s to accommodate their thighs!
Before you do anything, if you've never tried on a pair of Levi's or you haven't worn a pair in many years, get to your local Sears (I'm pretty sure most carry the standard indigo rigid 501s). Try a few pairs on to get a feel for how the pre-shrink waist will fit. Levi's recommends this:

If your waist is 27"-36", Increase size by 1"

If your waist is 38"-48", Increase size by 2"

If you want your jeans to still remain fitted after the shrink-stretch cycle, I would recommend subtracting one from each of those 'size-up' numbers. In other words, get your regular Levi's size for waist sizes under 36" and one size up for sizes over 36". If you like your fit a little slouchy after you wear them in, take the Levi's advice.

For the inseam, Levi's recommends this:

If your inseam is 27"-34", Increase size by 3"

If your inseam is 36"- up, Increase size by 4"

Once again, I would alter this advice. I favor a 31.5" or 32" inseam on most of my pants. I find that a sizing up two inches on the inseam of my STFs yields the best results for me. So unless you are freakishly tall or want a crazy tall cuff, I'd say size up two in the inseam. The caveat here is that Levi's only makes even-numbered inseam lengths. You'll have to deal with that fact. I can tell you that via this method, based on actual measurements of my jeans, that are tagged and measured to be a 34" inseam will shrink about 2.5 inches to ~31.5".

Alright, so you've figured out your size...oh great, you got a pair online in a color you like on crazy discount because Levi's has many periodic sales. Now you're ready to shrink them... Aside: right now I am shedding a single tear for the "verde" greencast 501s that are now unavailable (don't worry, I haven't even started on my third and final pair). For this particular demonstration, I'm using a lighter brown pair of 501s. The procedure is the same regardless of color, however.

In order to shrink your jeans, you're going to have to expose them to water and then dry them. There is nothing magical about it, if your unsanforized denim gets wet then dries, the fabric is going to shrink, plain and simple, temperature of soaking and drying be damned. Conventional wisdom says you will get maximum shrinkage via an ultra hot soak and a hot dry.

If you have a bathtub, start filling it with the hottest water your hot water heater can generate (remember to engage the stopper).

Gather your jeans and turn them inside out. This will minimize the amount of dye that leaves the fabric during the soak.

Next, throw them into the tub of hot water. You don't have to wait until the tub is full. As long as the jeans are fully covered in water, you can stop the flow of water and take a break. One hour is usually good enough. If this is your first soak/bath, check the tub periodically to make sure that you aren't losing water due to a leaky stopper. You don't want to come back to a pair of jeans in an empty tub.

Break time. Make yourself a sandwich, grab a beer or two, chill out for a while. After an hour or so, your jeans will be well soaked through with hot water. Fire your hand into the scalding hot tub and grab your soaking denim. Heavy, huh? Get some kind of pants hanger that can support the weight of your 501s + the water they carry. I had to wedge a washcloth in one kind of pants hanger to increase the friction in order to hold the jeans up. Hang the jeans up for twenty or so minutes to drip dry. Essentially, you want to just get rid of the serious moisture on the outside of the garment.

After the jeans are no longer dripping, lay a towel on the floor of your bathroom, place the jeans on top, then lay another towel on top of that. A drying Levi's sandwich is what you're going for here. Warning: your towels may pick up dye from the jeans. Don't worry about this, as it washes out fairly readily.

Next, imagine you are squishing grapes between your toes making wine in Italy and step on every square inch of the towel above the jeans, with both your feet, at least twice. This squeezes the extra water out of the jeans and shortens the drying cycle.

Step in the name of love. No, I'm not always wearing denim.

Rip those jeans back right-side-in and repeat the foot-blotting procedure on the exterior of the jeans.

If you're gonna wuss out, hang dry exactly like I described to drip-dry or hang on a hook from the back-most beltloop. About a day should do it depending on relative humidity. If you're planning on truly shrinking-to-fit, strip down to your skivvies, seriously. Or more. You get better heat transfer going commando. Put on your jeans! Wear them proudly while very damp. In the Northern Hemisphere, this (December) is not a very pleasant time to shrink jeans. The best time to do this is late Summer, early Fall, in my opinion. Sometimes you have no choice, however. If you get the chance to shrink in warmer weather, go outside and take a walk or bike ride. This will greatly decrease drying time.

Some tips while wearing your awesome damp Levi's:

Avoid sharply bending your knees. 501s have a serious tendency to stretch out in the knees, especially if you do full, ankles-below-knees squats while the jeans are wet.
If you're working with a darker color (especially indigo), lay towels on any upholstery you sit on. Wet denim is very prone to transfer its dye. Towels are easier to wash than your couch.
If you run up against your bedtime or you're just sick of wearing damp pants, hang them to dry for however long it takes. The parts that take the longest to dry are the hem, the pockets and the fly.

After the jeans are dry, the process is complete. You've done it. Start wearing the hell out of your new Levi's.

Wearing the crispy cardboard jeans for the first time.

November of Dressing Nicely -or- Guys in Chicago Don't Care How They Look

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Wed, 17 Nov 2010 04:16:00 +0000

I've recently had the pleasure of meeting (online but soon to be in person) a writer/social media director for Metromix, which is somehow related to RedEye, which is a faction of the Chicago Tribune essentially concerned with cool stuff for younger adults in the city. Ernest Wilkins could tell you better about what he does than I can.

Anyway, he is someone who has an interest in dressing better and wants to bring as many people as possible along for the ride. Much like Will over at Momentum of Failure with his 100 Days of Ties Project, Ernest has launched his own initiative. Enter November of Dressing Nicely (NoDN). The movement was inspired by a visitor to his office:

A guy from LA came into the office a few months back to take some meetings with my bosses. He was the best-dressed dude I've seen in years. I mean, suit was tailored, shirt had a monogram, sick longwing brogues, and a clean shave. The women went bananas. "Who is that guy?" "Is he working here now?" *wolf whistle*. A comment rang out that stuck with me. Upon finding out the gent was from LA, a co-worker stated, "Oh of course, no guy who lives here would look like that."

One of Ernest's #NoDN photos

Disturbed by this comment, Ernest asked his peers about Chicago men and their apparent disregard for dressing well. The general consensus was that "Guys in Chicago don't care how they look". Hell bent on being the exception rather than the rule, Ernest vowed to dress better for at least an entire month beginning November 1st, 2010. He has posted his photo every work day and has invited any one else to do the same. I've been submitting my self-taken photos and it's really encouraged me to avoid falling victim to laziness when I dress myself in the morning. It has already been a very positive exercise.

As I've stated before, my office environment is very casual and it would be easy to slip into a groove where a t-shirt, jeans, and sneakers become a uniform. I now refuse this possibility and try to look good all the time. However, I still lean toward casual dress (I'm not wearing suits to work) so I'm not scaring my coworkers too badly. In fact, I'm probably wearing jeans more often than not. Even so, the ignorant will still assume I have a job interview if I'm wearing a coat and tie as well. Anyway, it is interesting to see the photos submitted by the others who participate (there's a loyal community of maybe 6 people) because of the range in level of formality and perspective on what "dressing nicely" is to them.

I see NoDN as a continuation of the Tie Tuesdays I've observed since last fall. It serves as a reminder to take extra care in laying out an outfit that I know will look good. I'm not sure how many of you follow my Tumblr but I've been posting most of the photos I submit there along side the ones that end up on the NoDN Gallery that Ernest has set up. Below are some of my better submissions (please excuse myself looking like a complete ass in most of these, it's just the way I am).

If you're a Chicagoan trying to get in on the action, e-mail Ernest with your photo attached and he should post it right up. Prove to the land that you care about what you look like!

Shirts Bigger Than Your Jackets

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Mon, 08 Nov 2010 20:23:00 +0000

Allow me to preface this with saying that I am primarily an online shopper. I mostly hate going to brick and mortar places for a number of reasons I will not explain here. I'm usually pretty good at judging sizes based upon vendor-supplied size charts on websites and have generally been very successful in getting my size right while buying online.

While discussion around these parts seems to settle on pants most of the time, inconsistencies in shirt sizing aggravate me as well. The rest of this ~~rant~~ data-driven study explores just one example of the root cause of this aggravation.

As far as sport shirts in the realm of an everyday essential, I could not stop hearing about how great Brooks Brothers was (most notably the extra slim fit). Sport shirting at Brooks Brothers comes in standard, nonspecific sizing (S, M, L, XL, etc.). Consulting the size chart on the site (scroll down to MEN’S SIZE TRANSLATION CHART) and you'll see that the large (L) would be best for someone between a 42 and 44 inch chest and 35" sleeve. This is nearly perfectly describes my sizing. But ah yes, the cut of the shirt...how is that? Directly above that size translation chart, you'll see a description of all the cuts offered at Brooks Brothers. I've transposed them below (I've omitted the Luxury Fit because it is the same as the Traditional Fit only available in longer sleeve and body lengths).

Traditional Fit

Our fullest cut sport shirt

Slim Fit

Measures 3” slimmer through the chest, 5” slimmer through the waist and 2” slimmer through the seat than our Traditional Fit Sport Shirt.

Extra Slim Fit

Measures 2" slimmer through the chest, 2" slimmer through the waist and 3" slimmer through the seat than our Slim Fit Sport Shirt. Higher arm holes and narrower sleeves complement the trimmer silhouette.

So it would stand to reason that the Extra Slim is 5" slimmer through the chest, 7" slimmer through the waist, and 5" slimmer through the seat than the Traditional Fit (simple addition of SF to ESF reductions). Now, I'm not exactly a slim guy but I'm not cut like an action figure either. I was actually debating originally between the Slim Fit in large and the Extra Slim Fit in large. One of the reasons for this debate was that I saw a friend who had one of these very shirts (Brooks Brothers Extra Slim). He had one in medium and he reported to me that it was very trim through the chest and that he probably should have gotten the Slim Fit in medium on account of him having an unusually large chest for his height (shorter than me). So using this information and the information on the Brooks Brothers site, I ordered an Extra Slim Fit oxford cloth buttondown in large.

Upon receiving the shirt, I was disappointed to say the least. Not because it was too slim through the torso but because it was way, way too full. I'll let the measurements do the talking. I took measurements of the chest pit-to-pit, the waist where it would tuck into pants, and the largest part of the sleeve, pit to outer shoulder.

A: Chest : 23.5"

B: Waist : 22.5"

C: Sleeve: 9.5"

At least for me, wearing this shirt has resulted in considerably annoying bunching around the waist while tucked in and sail-like excess through the sleeves. I never realized just how large it was until I threw a Levi's trucker jacket (size large) over it. This is actually what prompted me to measure the shirt in the first place. For reference, I've included the same measurements for the jacket as well.

A: Chest : 22.5"

B: Waist : 21.5"

C: Sleeve: 8.5"

Thus, the "Extra Slim" shirt (compared to the Levi's jacket) is 2" larger through the chest, 2" larger through the waist, and 2" larger in the sleeves! This shirt is larger than an article of outerwear of the same tagged size! I understand that different brands have different guidelines and that you can't assume that a large is a large is a large, always. Having said that, why on earth is this shirt described as extra slim? It's not even slim by conventional standards. Also, the minuscule collar with rear button that prevents all but the slimmest ties from fitting through is some kind of sick punctuation mark on this bloated, adverb-laden sentence of a shirt.

I am aware that Brooks Brothers is a traditional brand with generally traditional (see: full) sizing. But when heard repeatedly from young people on the Internet championing "BB-ESF" as the gold standard for off the rack sport shirting, I figured that Brooks was trying to target a wider demographic and hey, better for everyone, right?

What is the explanation for my dissatisfaction with this shirt? Is it just me? Do I just have unreasonable standards compared to those of my peers? Did I read the size chart wrong? Is there something wrong with the Large pattern at Brooks Brothers? Did my shirt get tagged wrong at the factory? Either way, this shirt fitting me properly will require it to be entirely recut through the side seam.

Mountain & Sackett Neckwear (a rare product blast)

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Fri, 17 Sep 2010 04:08:00 +0000

Well it's time for my lame, bi-monthly, one-off post on TBTYH and I've decided to switch it up a bit. I'm going to do a SartInc-style brand highlight for ya'll. I'm a pretty big fan of neckwear of all kinds. I wear a tie every Tuesday and sometimes on the weekend when I want to make all my friends think I'm a weirdo. I also nearly exclusively buy neckwear secondhand or new at severe discount. Hell, I've even made my own tie and have loose plans to make more. Anyway, if there was one company to turn me over to the dark side of buying new ties at retail prices, Mountain & Sackett would be the one.

I heard about Mountain & Sackett through The Art of Manliness a couple of years ago. They have done a few promo giveaways with AoM but otherwise have been largely overlooked by the cool-kid blogs. This is likely due to the fact that M&S seems fairly off the grid in terms of social media utilization. Granted, they do have a Facebook page but we all know that Twitter seems to be the most effective way for small companies to communicate directly with niche customers.

100% Handmade

Mountain & Sackett is a New York based company that has been around since 1957. Their ties are all handmade in New York from fabric from European mills and are sold direct from the factory. I wanted to bring them to your attention because they seem like a legitimate family business putting out a high quality product for a reasonable price (most of the ties are betwee $60 and $74 with the more expensive ones topping out at $105). They have an amazing selection of not only colors and patterns, but of sizes too. Most of the ties are a pretty classic 3.5" in width and 58" in length but for some styles you have the option of a slimmer or bolder width (2.75" and 3.75", respectively) and/or a longer length (62"). Being of above average height, I appreciate the 62" option.

If it wasn't enough to make a high quality, sharp-looking product in the States, the good folks at Mountain & Hackett have their hearts in the right place by producing a line of neckwear and accessories adorned with the puzzlepiece logo of Autistm Speaks, a charity dedicated to changing "the future for all who struggle with autism spectrum disorders." Sixty percent of sales of these pieces go to the charity.

Anyway, let's hit some highlights:

REGIMENTAL STRIPE

Stylistically, the regimental stripe seem to be M&S's bread and butter. With 22 different variations, you're bound to find something you like. Made of English silk, these ties come in the standard 3.5" width and the standard 58" length. M&S also claims that these are the "World's Only 100% Handmade Regimental Tie(s)". Believe that claim or not, handmaking a tie is a real craft. It is a time-consuming and tedious procedure that should not be taken for granted in the eyes of quality.

Royal Marines Sherwood Foresters Ocassionals Hockey

KNIT

If a traditionally stripped regimental tie is not your thing, maybe you want to stunt like Kanye at New York Fashion Week (I thought every week Fashion Week?) and you don't want to go as bold as J.Press would like you to. Mountain & Sackett have quite an array of silk ($60) and wool ($74) knit ties at a 2.5" width, as compared to the 3" J.Press numbers. Also, it is worth noting that these are NOT handmade in the US, rather in Italy.

CASHMERE

Or maybe you'd care to get crazy-luxe-Italian and opt for a fine cashmere tie. A bit more pricey at $105, this ultra-soft tie is cut from fabric from Lanificio Cesare Gatti, a leading Italian textile manufacturer specializing in wool and cashmere. These ties only come in 3.5" widths and both standard and long lengths.

PAISLEY

You know paisley stuff is gonna be the next it thing, right? Mark my words. These are pretty beautiful, traditional 3.5" width, regular and long lengths. Not much else to say.

PLAID

You can't go wrong with a wool tartan tie in the fall and winter. There are several patterns to choose from, some actual Scottish family tartans (any MacDonalds, Sinclairs, Stewarts, Thompsons, or Kerrs around here?) which is cool, as well as a few glenplaids. The black/white glenplaid pictured below is definitely my favorite tie offered by M&S and the one I'm currently talking myself into buying. This particular tie can be cut into any of the widths or lengths previously mentioned so you can customize to your heart's content.

Pro Footwear Tip: Use Tongue Pads

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 02:06:00 +0000

It is well documented that I am a shoe junkie. I have many pairs, some of which that do not fit me perfectly. I blame it on an awkward foot size. Technically I should be a US size 12.5 M based on actual foot measurements. Since 12.5 is not a common shoe size (most shoe makers will do half sizes through 12 then skip directly to 13), and size 12s are nearly always too small I'm left with sizing up to a 13. For the most part, this isn't a problem and I have many size 13 shoes that fit me pretty well. However, it is not unusual for me to buy a pair of shoes that are just a tad too large. The consequences are usually heel slippage and what ShoeMD diagnoses as CSS (Clown Shoe Syndrome). Heel slippage is treatable whereas there is currently no known cure for CSS but patients diagnosed with it have been known to live long and happy lives.

This is a typical tongue pad.

For the cure to heel slippage, enter the tongue pad. The concept is simple enough: shim up the shoe to accommodate a smaller foot. The modern tongue pad takes the form of a 1/4" thick felt patch with adhesive on one side. The pad is stuck, via the adhesive, to the inside of the vamp on the shoe's tongue. This pushes the foot back into the heel Truth be told, I had no idea that these little guys existed until I bought a pair of lightly used shoes on eBay that had them already installed. I didn't know what they were but they felt nice against my foot and the shoe fit perfectly because of it. I Googled "tongue pad" and low and behold, that's what they're called. I immediately ordered seven pair. I've put a few into some of my not-so-snug-fitting shoes and I now have shoes that fit! As an added bonus, if you're a trend-hopper like me and you sometimes wear your dress shoes sans socks, a tongue pad is a comfortable buffer between the top of your foot and bare leather.

I know the shoe snobs will deride the use of tongue pads and be all "ALWAYS try on shoes before buying" or "only buy shoes that fit perfectly" and "take out a second mortgage on your house and buy made-to-measure shoes". But for me, they work. They're a simple, inexpensive alternative to selling or returning shoes that are only slightly too large. A particular pair of chocolate brown suede loafers I thought I would have to sell on eBay wound up fitting after popping in a pair of tongue pads. Hey, that's worth it to me.

The Groomsman's Dilemma

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 04:24:00 +0000

This is a joke.

At some point in a young man's life, it is likely that he will be asked to stand up at a friend or relative's wedding. The day of his wedding is quite possibly the most important day in a man's life and he and his wedding party usually dress accordingly. Clearly the groom and groomsmen want to look good and especially for a religious ceremony will err on the side of formality in terms of dress. I won't delve into the details of types of wedding dress. It's all been said before (by the way, I can't agree with this advice more). Truthfully, I didn't know much at all about formal dress before reading these articles.

Anyway, last spring I was asked to be in my best friend's wedding. This was the first wedding I was actually to be a part of and I really had no idea of what to expect. It was decided by the bride and groom that the men of the wedding party would be dressed in tuxedos (even though the ceremony was to be held during the day). There was no argument from me and not much time passed before I found myself in a Men's Wearhouse Tux getting measured for a slick Calvin Klein two-button number, the best option available (if you've ever been to a MWT you've probably seen the ridiculous and insane zootsuit nonsense they have available for attention-seeking prom-goers). From what I ascertained from the measurements and the subsequent first and only fitting was that essentially they take an off the rack tuxedo jacket in your general size (in my case 42L) and simply alter the sleeve to the appropriate length. The pants are even easier: side tabs accommodate a range of waist sizes and the leg is cut full and flowing for all. The pant length is hemmed to taste.

This is me in a rental tuxedo.

To the right is a photo of what I looked like on the day. Forgive that my expression makes me look like a total dork and that my jacket is unbuttoned. I was taken by surprise. Even so, you can see that the jacket falls fairly straight down my sides and does little to flatter my body shape. It is difficult to see in this photo but the most bothering part of this outfit was the pants. They were just too big through the thigh and lower leg (something very difficult to do with me). I felt like I was wearing Hammer Pants. In fairness, I don't think I looked completely horrible. My experience just left a bit to be desired. This article will give you more of what to expect if you're going the MW route. All complaining aside, the ceremony and reception were truly beautiful and I would never, ever hold anything against the bride and groom because they are my de facto family. This is simply a case study in trying to dress one's self without the assistance of someone who sells you the use of a garment for 24 hours for $150. To me this is a waste. This is akin to paying rent and living in an apartment for your entire life. You get to park your body in it for a little while but own nothing at the end of the lease. You can also do nothing to customize it because you don't own it. Anyway, here's to investing in ~~real estate~~ formal clothing.

So, another friend is getting married late this fall and has asked me to be a part of his wedding party. I have refused to make the same mistake of renting a schlubby tuxedo for nearly half the cost of one that fit me that I could own for as long as the seams held up. The groom-to-be has chosen the same suit from the Men's Wearhouse as my good friend last year. And after looking at a bunch of tuxes I have concluded that a two-button, notch lapel jacket is a two-button, notch lapel jacket. There's a reason why its design has changed so little in the past few generations.

P.S. - I hope Idris Elba is the next Bond.

So for this wedding, I have resigned myself to acquiring my own tuxedo (I may have to rent some accessories from MW to be in the cool kids club but I'm fine with that). I looked up the same CK two-button that MW rents for $150: it retails for $350. Granted, there are extras included in that $150 but those are extras you can use over and over again (shirt, tie, waistcoat, studs, links, shoes, etc.). Still, I'm thinking the cost of getting that suit altered is gonna push the total cost higher than I'm comfortable with. Another idea: Internet made-to-measure. Enter Indochino. You may have heard of them before. They offer custom suiting based upon user-submitted measurements. They also offer a classic tuxedo for $359. They offer a ton of extras (lapel style, vents, ticket pocket, your choice of lining color), the sizing is based on your own measurements and the fit is guaranteed (they give you a $75 alterations credit to use with your local tailor if the garment doesn't fit you at first). I'm giving them a whirl for this upcoming wedding and hoping to look like James Bond (as the product description explains). They're also having a promotion right now with tuxedos where you get a shirt and two accessories free with code "TUXEDOPROMO".

From what I've read online on people's experiences with Indochino, reviews have been pretty good. Most agree that the fabric quality is not phenomenal but pretty good for what you're paying. Most people have to use the $75 credit and take a trip to the tailor at least once. This is simply the nature of the beast. You shouldn't expect a bespoke quality fit based on no actual fittings of the suit. Anyway, if the tailor can't do anything to make it fit you for $75, Indochino will cut you a new suit. Read this guide before you start anything.

Anyway, I'll be sure to let you guys know how it works out. I'm excited.

Aside: Don't Indochino's trenches look awesome?

The Long and Short / Big and Small of It

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 05:25:00 +0000

WARNING: This post contains personal history, shoddy statistical analysis, and old images of United States Presidents (one of whom got stuck in a bathtub).

Growing up, I was always fairly big. In fact, I was pretty chubby for the first 20 years of my life (I distinctly remember my mother taking me to the department store to buy "husky" jeans). I now lift weights to convert some of the junk I eat into muscle. This leaves me with an above average mass for my height (albeit slightly less insulated).


Willam Howard Taft: 6'0", 340 lbs.

When I first started caring about how I presented myself to the world, I was convinced that only slender people could look good. Hey, I never claimed to be insightful or intelligent. Since then, through research and experience, I've realized that anyone can look like a million dollars if they just wear clothes that fit their bodies and their personalities (easier said that done, apparently). I also realized that this is true for that of people on the opposite end of the spectrum as well. Small and skinny or tall and lanky guys can often have trouble finding clothes that flatter their body types.

James Madison: 5'4", 100lbs.

Since being larger than average is kind of my angle (and reality), I am constantly thinking about how different pieces of clothing will fit me. Most of the times, at least when it comes to pants, even trying stuff on is out of the question. But more generally, this got me thinking about variation in mens sizing and it's relation to access to good-looking, well-made stuff. My left brain took over and I started wondering if there was a typical male body size with regard to who is "into" looking good or not. I basically wanted to characterize who I'm constantly talking to all the time about clothes in terms of height and weight. Now, I'll be the first one to tell you how little credence I put in simple height and weight figures (don't get me started on the use of BMI as an indicator of health) but for raw data like this, it will do for now. So I basically asked every dude who I've spoken with via Twitter their info. This data includes some of your favorite bloggers and in general, just style enthusiasts (I've also included myself). This is the data I got:

For reference, 72 inches is 6 feet

The output graph of height vs. weight kind of surprised me. First of all, there is a lot more variation than I expected. On the other hand, there are no extreme outliers. The data does not follow a very clear trend (obviously in general, the taller one is, the more likely one is to weight more). One fact that is easily noticable is the cluster of points toward the middle-left of the graph. The cluster contains people who stand between 5'9" and 6'0" and weigh between 150 and 170 lbs. This group would be at the top of your standard bell curve (the normal distribution) and would generally be considered "average" for the age group surveyed (to my knowledge: 18-35 year old males). In this data set, 11 of 27 (40.6%) people are within this window. The points above and below this cluster represent the outlier combination of height and weight that are sometimes more difficult to fit off the rack. [Aside: What is also interesting is that the median weight for those taller than 6 ft. jumps disproportionally compared to those shorter than 6 ft. There is a hole in the graph in the 5'11"-6'3" / 170-190lbs. block. This is likely explained by a limited data set (only 27 data points).]

When a clothing designer makes a pattern for anything off the rack that will have more than one size, they usually try to do so such that the garment will fit the most number of people within their target audience of customers (most likely the top of the bell curve of body measurements). Outliers are often left out, especially in a company that makes high-quality products in limited runs. But hey, that's business. I know I'm really oversimplifying/over-complicating this but I hope it isn't too difficult to understand. My findings were overly simple because I didn't take body type into account; perhaps fodder for a future investigation.

Buttoned-Up

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 17:52:00 +0000

If you wear collared shirts without a tie, I'd venture to guess that you don't button all of your buttons. Not to say that it can't look good, I think you just have to have a certain panache to pull it off.

Sidebar: Once I was on my way to a circus-themed party dressed as an old-tyme magician. I buttoned the top button of the white shirt I was wearing on the car ride over so that the pinpoint collar wouldn't be less splayed out to the sides when I arrived. I unknowingly left the top button done upon entering the party and with the suspenders and beard I was wearing everyone thought I had come dressed as an Amish man.

Anyway, it seems almost second nature to undo the top button of a casual shirt while not wearing a tie. But what if the second button is a bit high? You don't want to look like you live with your mother, do you? Depending on the shirt (naturally), I find myself more often than not in the summer undoing the top two buttons on my shirts. It may seem like a minor detail or some kind of contrivance but I always say that the devil is in the details.

Reasons for leaving two buttons undone are plentiful:

The more pronounced "V" formed by the two halves of the shirt better frames the face in lieu of a tie and jacket.
The larger opening allows for more airflow and better cooling properties.
It is an excuse to be manly and show more chest hair (if you have it).

So how do you wear your buttons? Rico Suave vs. Poindexter. Is it even worth talking about?

Levi's Fall Outerwear: Beyond Denim

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 04:34:00 +0000

(In the northern hemisphere) I know it's a strange time to be thinking about outerwear. At least where I'm at, we're all trying to wear as few layers as is socially acceptable. However, you must realize that before you know it, it's gonna get cooler and you're gonna need some kind of jacket to throw over the shoulders of your lady friend when she gets chilly (why do women get so cold?).

If for some reason, you're not down with denim jackets or if you're looking for something fresh when temperatures drop, Levi's has you covered. Enter the Cord Trucker Jacket.

These corduroy jackets in khaki and red are a "slim-fitting update to the 1967 Standard Trucker" and feature a "close and tapered cut". For $70, that is more than good enough for me. And unlike a denim jacket, you'll never have to worry about contrasting with what you're wearing on your lower half. Either of these would work with just about any kind of pants you tend to wear in the fall. Both soft and warm, these will be tough to pass up.

Aside: I can only imagine how excellently the khaki version will pull together your look when you're wearing some dark denim, a crispy white shirt, and a dark knit tie.

*Edit - I pulled the trigger on this jacket and can tell you that it fits very much the same as Levi's slim trucker denim jacket. Check the size chart if you're not familiar because these run pretty slim.

Levi's New Releases: Selvedge 201 and 501

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Fri, 02 Jul 2010 04:13:00 +0000

Hot on the heels of their end-of-the-spring sale, Levi's has stocked their web site with some of the new offerings for the colder half of this year. The most compelling items in my eyes are the selvage update of the 501 and the newly re-introduced, non-LVC version of the 201. And more good news: they're both available for the very non-LVC price of $98.00.

Firstly a short history lesson: Way back in the 1870s, after hearing of miners complain of pockets ripping off of their pants in rough working conditions, Loeb (Levi) Strauss, the brains of the operation, and Jacob Davis, the money man, got a patent for using rivets to secure pockets to clothing. The American blue jean is born. The Number One overall was the first model introduced by LS&Co. This later became known as the 501 model and featured a leather patch. Shortly thereafter, a second, budget-type model, known as the Number Two overall was introduced (later known as the 201) and featured a linen patch to differentiate it from the higher-end Number One. The primary difference between the two is that the Number Two had a lighter weight fabric than the original Number One.

Levi's has essentially offered the 501 since day one in one form or another but the 201 has seen a wax and wane phenomenon, being released maybe two times in the past ten years under Levi's LVC (Levi's Vintage Clothing) line. The current model isn't exactly faithful to the original model, featuring five pockets instead of four (the originals only had one rear pocket) but it is a nice nod to a bygone era and the history of Levi's as a brand.

In these two first photos, you can clearly see the differences between the modern 201 "Workwear Jeans" and what we've become accustomed to with the 501 and every iteration thereafter (510, 511, 514, etc.). The 201s feature a functional cinch back, suspender (aka brace) buttons and back pocket rivets. The fit appears to be even more generous than that of the 501s although I cannot confirm this fact. It isn't even apparent whether or not the selvedge denim is sanforized or not. I will inquire at Levi's HQ to find out more details. The Levi's site seems a bit reluctant to divulge details concerning the origins/quality/weight of it's denim. I would guess that the 201 is of the same weight as the 501 based upon the pictures but you never can tell for sure. The fact that the 201s are only available in a 30 or 32 inch inseam suggest that they don't shrink very much (although this is purely conjecture).

The selvedge 501s appear to be everything you've come to expect only Levi's is jumping on the 'All-Selvedge-Everything' bandwagon (which certainly makes everything better). In all seriousness though, if you are a large-thighed man, this is about the best pair of sub-100 doll-hair selvedge denim you could hope for in my (admittedly Levi's fanboy) humble opinion. Or hell, if you a regularly-sized-thigh person with a reverence for Levi's and don't mind a bit of extra fabric, these are your high-quality, raw denim heritage jeans.

As a freak of a fan of 501s, I might have to buy this pair even though I have way too much denim already. Maybe after I get a little more info on the fabric. It is already clear that they are not constructed in the U.S. ($98 price tag) and the obligatory "Imported" listed as the country of origin on the website supports this.

Hopefully more info to follow. It'd be nice if the new 501s and 201s were cut from selvedge denim from the infamous Cone Mills of North Carolina...

*Edit - Levi's has updated the site to include a few more details about these two pairs of denim. The 201's rise is 1.25" bigger than that of the 501. (12.5" vs. 11.25") and the circumference of the leg opening on the 201 is a half inch larger than on the 501. The 501s are also shrink-to-fit but the 201 is not specified as such so I have to assume that they will not shrink much (they're Sanforized). The message I got back from Levi's when I inquired originally about all the details was painfully general and didn't answer any of my questions. I'll keep pressing to see what I can find out.

Red Dead Revolution

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 01:47:00 +0000

I've spoke of the power of bright color (red) before. Since then, the weather has warmed and red has become my go-to color for accenting and bold statements, threads-wise. When wearing a color as bold as red, it would be wise to take care in not overdoing it. I generally adhere to the rule of having one brightly colored item in an outfit or two if one of them is smaller (like a watchstrap or pocket square). But hey, if you're a boss, try more. The problem is that having two many items of matching color make you look a bit clown-like. Try varying the colors or use different shades of the same color.

Anyway, I've put together five spring/summer looks, each incorporating something red to give you a feel of how I get down with red.

*Edit* In response to numerous requests, I've added where all the stuff I'm wearing came from. Yes, I do have an unhealthy amount of M+O. Their mediums fit me perfectly and they're constantly having crazy sales because they're closing up shop soon.

Some good slammin' around town weekend gear.
Shirt: Gap
Shorts: Gap
Watch: Darch
Shoes: Nunn Bush

Dressing it down a bit more.
Shirt: Martin+Osa
Shorts: Gap
Shoes: Converse Jack Purcell

Something I'd wear going out on a cold spring evening.
Shirt: Martin+Osa
Sweatshirt: Martin+Osa
Jeans: Epaulet Hoyt
Shoes: Sperry Top-Sider

Pretty sure I've worn this to work. *Bonus: red brick soles
Shirt: Martin+Osa
Jacket: J. Crew
Jeans: Epaulet Hoyt
Shoes: Tricker's

Barbecue or picnic threads
Shirt: Land's End
Pants: Kenneth Cole
Shoes: Sperry Top-Sider

Who wears short shorts?

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Sun, 06 Jun 2010 23:53:00 +0000

I guess I do.

Summer is pretty much in full swing, at least in my neck of the woods. And here in Chicago, there are days that are unbearably hot in long pants. Shorts are necessary for a man living in a climate capable of generating upwards of 90 degrees Fahrenheit of temperature on a regular basis in the summertime. When you are a gentleman possessing thighs with large mass, the last thing you should do is completely cover your legs' upper half.

If you've worked to have muscular legs, I implore you to consider a short that ends substantially above the knee. Now I'm not advising that you sport briefs in public, just something that will flatter your legs and not remind me of the billowing, below-the-knee shorts trend of the past decade. It highly depends on the *length* of your thigh but generally, a single-digit inseam (in inches) will get you there. Personally, this translates to a 7-inch inseam (I am 6'2" with a comparatively long torso). For you it may be different. Five, six, seven, nine, and eleven inch inseam shorts are all readily available.

The good thing about shorts from all the major players is that they're usually cut pretty full and almost never "slim" (unless otherwise specified). If possible, get to a store to try them on to be sure. Assuming you fit into them, a pair of shorts is gonna look better on you than on a dude with peg legs. Also, if you have a pair of old pants that fit you well through the thigh, another option is to make your own shorts. I've done so with an old pair of navy corduroy pants to great success.

Although photos of me in shorts are in short supply (I should be able to find some daylight soon to snap a few and show ya'll), I've hunted down a few commercially available (and affordable) options and will list them here. Seriously, if you're paying over $100 for shorts (such nonsense does exist) you may need to rethink a few things.

Land's End

The shortest, at a 6" inseam, and also the least expensive, at $29.50, this short from Land's End has a traditional fit, "roomy" and is available in seven colors. Go with the pictured light khaki, stone, navy, gray, granite, commando green, or satisfy your inner prep with Nantucket red.

J. Crew

J. Crew also has you covered with a pair of 7" inseam shorts available in a variety of earthtones as well as blue and Nantucket red. They're made of two-ply cotton twill and are broken in so you don't have to worry about stiff chino fabric in the hot summer months.

Rugby

For you lankier gents, Rugby's University Chino short has a longer 9" inseam with the typical plethora of color options (ultra-prep included). You do get a nice little button-down flap change pocket in addition to a hook and bar-tab front closure.

Patagonia

If you prefer a more rugged option, Patagonia has a great pair of 7 inch inseam shorts with a regular fit. Made of 10oz. organic cotton twill, these shorts were designed with the rock climber in mind. If you value durability and don't mind the heavier weight, the Stand Up shorts are right up your alley.

These are just a few affordable options I could scrounge up, many other options are abound. Get yourself some shorts, then get out and give your pegs some sun. Also, if you have a minute, read the Wikipedia article on shorts, it is hilarious.

Epaulet Hoyt: Delivered

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Thu, 13 May 2010 02:52:00 +0000

Well, they've arrived. If you missed it, I profiled them last week to whet your appetite and now I have the goods to evaluate. My initial impressions are very good. I've only worn them for a few hours total around the house to break them in and these jeans fit me wonderfully.

First wear, as compared to my A.P.C. Rescues, the Hoyts fit way less like jeggings and more like actually-fitting jeans. They were a bit tight at first but they've since relaxed a bit, as expected with any denim.

The difference in the weight of the fabric is quite noticeable (12.25oz. vs. 14oz. for the Rescues). They are lighter but don't give me the feeling that they're going to fall apart. Construction seems well executed and it really shows in the details: There are gunmetal rivets and donut buttons (four total buttons if you're wondering), a solid diagonal bar tack on each corners of the back pockets, and a handsome embossed leather patch above the rear right pocket (all pictured below).

I am quite satisfied with the fit and quality of this denim. Epaulet gets the TBTYH stamp of approval. And also, considering that they are made in the US with materials of US origin, $145 is a pretty good value.

I apologize for the quality of the fit photo. There really isn't much light in my kitchen at 8:00pm.

Epaulet Hoyt: Here Comes A New Challenger!

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Wed, 05 May 2010 04:44:00 +0000

I've talked about my challenges fitting into denim before. But that long wait has Epaulet has completed their new cut of jean, the Hoyt. They've updated their beautiful Smith model to include more room in the seat and thighs (exactly what I need), expressly designed for men who are "into things like cycling, rowing, crossfit, etc." I'm going to do a paper comparison to the only other pair of selvage denim I own, A.P.C. Rescues (that is until my Hoyts are delivered).

Pictured on the left (A.P.C. Rescues on the right), the Hoyt is cut from a 12.25oz. natural line selvage from the Cone Mills White Oak plant in North Carolina. By comparison, the A.P.C.s feature 14oz. red line selvage denim from (I don't actually know). Both have contrast stitching, five pockets, and rivets in all the usual places. I think the kicker is that the Epaulet jeans are manufactured in the United States, whereas the A.P.C.s are manufactured in Macau, a territory of China. While this shouldn't really say much in terms of comparative quality (a debate for another time), as an American, I feel great supporting workers here in the US, both in the textile plant the denim was produced and also in the shop the full product was constructed in.

But enough of the details, what of the fit? Certainly the most important part of the modern jean should not be neglected. Well, I can speak to the fit of the A.P.C.s, which are 'vanity sized'. This is the annoying part of buying A.P.C. denim. Maybe it has to do with the fact that they are generally unisex jeans but the general rule is to size down two to three from your normal size. For me this meant a size 30 in A.P.C. Any larger and I run the risk of the waistband stretching to an abnormal proportions. Denim is generally known to stretch out or relax after wear but it seems A.P.C. is especially known for this. Seriously, when I first tried my Rescues on, I could not physically button the top two buttons. Now, one year later, the waistband is about one inch too big (while the thighs remain pretty tight). This is my dilemma. On paper, let's compare the A.P.C. Rescue's sizing to the Epaulet Hoyt's (which Epaulet recommends you buy true-to-size, in my case a 33):

*Total rise on the Hoyts were calculated from an average of the front and rear rise, which was specified on the product page.

As you can see, the Hoyts have a bit more room in the upper legs than the Rescues. I am quite interested in the full extra inch in the thigh and the higher rise. We'll see how it works out when I get my hands on the EPs. Expect a full write-up with fit pics and comparison to the A.P.C.s. I know from experience that men with larger legs have very limited options when it comes to quality denim and I am happy to share my experience for the betterment of my large-thighed brethren.

Fresh White Summer Sneaks

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Thu, 22 Apr 2010 05:34:00 +0000

I've been on the prowl for some clean white canvas sneakers for this summer and my oh my, there are many options. I spent a little time today perusing Zappos for some good choice footwear. This is what I came up with. For the purposes of this post, I'm just rounding up the whitest, simplest shoes under $60. You can get pretty nutty with white sneakers upwards of $300 but I hardly find value in a canvas shoe you're going to trash anyway. Also, this is by no means an exhaustive list, only what I found during a quick glance at Zappos. In no particular order:

Vans Authentic Core Classics - $42.00

The gold standard according to some of the cool blogs and skater kids. This shoe, in 'True White', features a flexible canvas upper with a gum rubber sole and one of the simplest designs you'll see. The price is always right as well.

Vans Authentic Organic - $39.90

Just in time for Earth Day, feel good about the enivronment by getting a version of the before mentioned Authentic. The upper is made of 100% organic canvas and the sole is made from 20% recycled rubber. I actually really just love the colorway. They're on sale at Zappos but there are limited sizes available.

Converse Chuck Taylor All Star Slim Ox - $50.00

A lower-profile version of the classic Chucks, this sneak has a canvas upper and liner with a lightly padded footbed. The standard rubber sole keeps you planted to the street and the red pinstripe sets you out from the crowd.

Tretorn Krona Linen - $58.50

While not canvas, I figure linen is close enough in line with a summer shoe material that it can be reasonably included. This shoe is pretty low, almost slipper-like. The colorway may seem a bit subdued at first glance but make sure you check out the other side (WARNING: splash of wacky color). The Swedes did right by me with this one.

Adidas Originals P-Sole - $39.95

This offering from Adidas is low profile and lightweight (9.0 oz. per sz 8.5 shoe). It features a vulcanized canvas upper, rubber sole, and a design based on the Eberhard Schöller table tennis shoe of old. The association with Adidas and the three stripe detail makes this a bit of a sportier option.

Converse Jack Purcell CP - $55.00

A slightly modified version of the 1930's badminton classic, the Jack Purcell CP has got everything you need and more. Canvas upper and rubber sole come standard along with Jack Purcell's signature on the heel and the signature "smile" on the toe.

Sperry Top-Sider Striper Lace - $59.95

This Sperry sneaker is like a luxury version of the Vans Authentic; it has more padding and cushioning than it's bare-bones younger brother. It retains the razor-cut tread on the sole just like Sperry's deck shoes, for wet and dry traction.

Supra Thunder Lo - $52.00

I haven't even heard of Supra until yesterday, in fact, although they seem to have some nice footwear. Direct from the product description, this is a "classic low top design". No bones about this shoe, it is clean and simple and doesn't mess around with any adornments.

Pro-Keds Royal Lo Canvas - $44.95

If you're looking for a similar shoe to the Supra with a splash of color, the Pro-Keds are for you. They have a rubber toe and sole with the requisite canvas upper. They also feature a removable padded footbed, which is kind of nice. ~~I just wish Pro-Keds made their Royal CVO in white, but alas~~. *Edit - They do! Although they don't appear to be in production anymore. Thanks, Lawrence!

Have you got a go-to fresh white sneak that you want to share? Drop me a line in the comments below.

Gym Style

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 02:41:00 +0000

Hey ya'll, sorry I've been off the radar for a while. I took a much needed vacation.

One way to curse one's self with the affliction of thighs bigger than one's head is to exercise. Cycling, rowing, and weightlifting (among other activities) will all make the muscles in your legs hypertrophy. I happen to lift weights regularly (I am a follower of Stronglifts). Since most discussion about style addresses times when you're out and about (work, school, weekend, beach, etc...), I wanted to see if you're on your game in the gym too.

I know that you're thinking, "Why should I care what I look like in the gym? I'm gonna be all sweaty anyway and plus you're there to put in work, not look good." If you think about it, the gym is no different than any other place you might visit during the day. There is a chance you'll meet a new friend and you don't want to risk looking like a bum and blowing a first impression out of the water. Looking sharp while wearing functional clothing for exercise is not difficult to do, either. My only bit of advice is to keep it simple.

For weightlifting, to the right is what I wear almost every day. Nautica white cotton undershirt, Mizuno polyester volleyball shorts, low profile Nike Dri-fit socks (days when I deadlift I substitute Adidas knee-high soccer socks), and Adidas Sambas. The whole outfit is simple and classic whilst retaining functionality. The cotton t-shirt is what you want between a barbell and your skin while backsquating because it provides enough friction so that the bar doesn't slide. Something like Under Armor will give you problems with slipping bars. The above-the-knee polyester shorts are nice and breathable and don't get in the way of lifts where your knees are bending. The Sambas are actually excellent weight lifting shoes due to their flat and incompressible sole, providing pure power transfer during squats and deadlifts.

Granted, this isn't anything fancy. But I don't want it to be. Obviously you may need different threads for different activities. Just keep it similar, classic, and functional and you'll look solid. You know those cardio bunnies are watching; just stay away from the ones wearing makeup.

Chino Blazer Roundup

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Thu, 25 Mar 2010 04:25:00 +0000

If you've been keeping up, I recently did a profile on L.L. Bean Signature and Land's End Canvas. The first match-up I covered was the chino blazer that both offered. Scroll down to the previous post or click here to read it. As I became more interested in the idea of a khaki blazer for spring (now a definite must in my eyes), I began to explore other options as well. This is what I came up with. I tried to keep it within the realm of financial possibility for the average gentleman. All the reasonably stylish and available options I came across fell within the 140-250 dollar range (although the Land's End Canvas jacket was only $70 and the L.L. Bean offering was $135).

Martin+Osa

Broken-In Chino Blazer

This simple three-button jacket from Martin+Osa could be just what you need for this spring and summer. It features a slimmer modern cut, two working button holes on the cuffs, a half-lining patterned in what appears to be a white/green/red/black tartan. The shell is 100% twill cotton and the lining is 100% cotton poplin. This jacket has the fairly requisite front flap pockets, welted slash front breast pocket, and single back vent. Not a bad pick for $140, especially when M+O is currently closing a bunch of stores and having sales nearly every other day. Get into your local store to try one on if you can before they're gone. I'd also bet you a beer that this is Paul's (of Components of Enthusiasm [on hiatus for now]) jam for sure.

Ralph Lauren Rugby

Newbury Chino Jacket

This slightly more keyed-up 3 roll 2 jacket from Rugby may be more up your alley. It is fitted with what Rugby calls its "vintage style shorter and skinnier Newbury silhouette", featuring four working buttons on its cuff. If you unbutton these buttons, you unveil one of the edgy details of this jacket: the lettering "Rugby A Game of Gentlemen" inside the cuff. The other Rugby choice detail is the skull and bones logo on the underside of the collar. Patch pockets all around and you've got yourself a solid chino option for this spring. It's something I imagine young Angelo of Class Act sporting from time to time in the coming months.

Ralph Lauren Polo

Maidstone Chino Sport Coat

Hey, this looks suspiciously similar to the last jacket! Well, it's made by the same parent company, Ralph Lauren, and on the surface it appears to be just a more mature version of the previously badass jacket profiled above. In fact, it has most of the same features, including the four working cuff buttons. Look a bit closer though and you'll see that this coat has genuine mother of pearl buttons, no flaps on the pockets, or any of the "edgy" details, as with the Rugby. However, in a perfectly understated way, the detail that makes this particular jacket stand out is the strawberry red undercollar. All signs point to L.A.S. of Sartorially Inclined most likely to rock this armor.

J. Crew

Italian Chino Ludlow

While this jacket is definitely on the higher end, considering the quality it seems a good bet for under 250 dollars. This two-button jacket is woven from cotton twill from the Crespi Mill in Italy. The Ludlow cut is the most modern silhouette J. Crew offers, featuring a narrow lapel and a shorter cut. Standard flap front pockets and flap front pockets but this joint is fully lined with what looks like *gasp* silk. It has felt under the collar and non-functioning button holes on the cuffs (way to suck all the fun out of it, J. Crew). But seriously, although it is sold as a separate, this is more of a *real* suit jacket than the others. The matching pant is sold on the same page. If Will from Momentum of Failure doesn't already have this on his back, it's probably in a UPS truck headed for Denver.

Outro: As for this roundup, along with the L.L. Bean Signature and Land's End Canvas options outlined previously, these are probably your best bets for chino blazers for this spring and summer. Something of note concerning sizing: the Polo and J. Crew jackets are available in traditional suit jacket sizes (ie. 42R) whereas the lower-end pieces are a little more unpredictable with label-specific sizes (S, M, L, XL). Cheers.

My apologies to any high-profile bloggers whose sensibilities may have been offended by this post; I'm just having fun.

Premium Heritage Showdown: Land's End Canvas vs. L.L. Bean Signature

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 00:05:00 +0000

The closing months of this winter marked the release of two heritage lines from the well known American catalog brands, Land's End and L.L. Bean; Canvas and Signature respectively. Both brands are known for being a bit anti-fit, but both of these collections are perfect for bigger guys; they are apparently a bit more trim and tailored than any of their previous offerings, whilst retaining the legacy of a more relaxed fit.

There are actually some pieces in each collection that are nearly identical. I'm going show each and list some distinguishing characteristics of some of these spring staples. I'll also touch on some of the highlights of each collection. All product shots will be presented with LL Bean on the left and Land's End on the right (until Blogger allows me to easily add captions to photos). This choice was completely arbitrary.

Fits you'll have to ascertain for yourself but it is not going to be easy to try these or any of the pieces on in-store. You'll likely have more luck with the Land's end clothing, as the line is carried in some Sears department stores. Check for yourself here. As far as the L.L. Bean Signature line, L.L. Bean public relations has confirmed that it will only be in-store at the Tyson's Corner, VA location. Otherwise, you'll have to roll the dice and buy online. But if you have to return something, no sweat. L.L. Bean has a fantastic return policy and your satisfaction is guaranteed (you have their word).

Jacket

First up is the khaki jacket. Look at that, the model is even standing in the exact same position and the coats are positioned in almost the same way! L.L. Bean's New Traditional Blazer and Land's End's Chino Blazer are clearly poised against each other.

Similarities:

Half-lining
Single back vent
Working sleeve button holes

Differences:

Buttons: the Bean version has two whereas the Land's version is a 3 roll 2.
Pockets: the Bean version has flaps.
Color: the khaki on the Bean version is darker (its listed color is "Moss Khaki") than that of the Land's.
Fit (?) of the LL Bean version appears a bit trimmer and possibly longer but that could be the fact that the pictures are cropped a bit differently.
Cost: the Bean jacket lists at $135.00 whereas the Land's End jacket is only $69.50.

Workshirt

Next up is the chambray workshirt. You have to have a chambray workshirt in your collection, it's what all the kids are wearing! L.L Bean's Chambray Workshirt and Land's End's Heritage Chambray Workshirt look pretty similar. Let's break it down.

Similarities:

Chambray (duh)
Pin point collar
Buttons on the pockets

Differences:

Pockets: flaps on the Bean
Buttons: large dark buttons on the Bean, smaller white buttons on the Land's
Color: The Land's version appears to be more green and the Bean version is washed indigo.
Price: L.L. Bean shirt is $69.00 and the Land's End shirt is $39.50

Gingham Button-down Shirt

As far as spring patterns go, gingham is about as standard as it gets. I've chosen to show only the navy versions of each shirt because the color was common in both lines. The Bean version is known as the Washed Oxford Cloth Gingham Shirt and the Land's version is known as the Heritage Poplin Shirt.

Similarities:

Button-down collar
Single breast pocket

Differences:

Color choices:

L.L. Bean

Land's End

Price: The L.L. Bean shirt is $49.00 and the Land's End shirt is $34.50.

Relaxed Chino

A solid pair of chinos is an excellent anchor to a smart-looking casual spring wardrobe. Roll them up, turn them up, leave them alone; whatever floats your boat. Both brands have some good offerings. Here we'll look at the L.L. Bean's Sportsman's Chino Pant compared to Land's End's Heritage Chino.

Similarities:

100% cotton
Side-seam front pockets
Rear welt pockets
Flat front
Watch/coin pocket

Differences:

Fit: The L.L. Bean chino has a relaxed fit and is fuller through the leg and the Land's End chino is a straight fit.
Fly: The L.L. Bean version has a button fly. I must assume that the Land's End version is a zipper fly (If someone owns these pants, I would appreciate any confirmation of this).
Price: The L.L. Bean chinos are $59.00 and the Land's End chinos are $39.50.

I predict, considering their more generous fits, that either of these pants would be a good go for a fellow tree-trunk-legged gentleman.

Trench Coat

A cotton trench is one of those classically under-rated spring outer garments. Nobody's going to notice or care that you don't have one, but people will definitely will notice you if you're wearing one. Both L.L. Bean and Land's End have coats to fill this void in your wardrobe; L.L. Bean with it's Trench and Land's End with it's Heritage Cotton Coat.

Similarities:

100% cotton
Water-repellent
Button-tab cuffs
Back vent
Side pockets

Differences:

Lining: The Bean trench is half lined with fabric in a tattersall pattern. There is no picture of this but I imagine it is a nice detail. I have to assume that the Land's coat is unlined.
Collar closure: The L.L. Bean version has a storm flap and the Land's End does not.
Interior pockets: The Land's coat has three interior pockets that close with buttons (see right). The item description says that they will fit a phone, mp3 player, and passport. The Bean version must have some plain-jane interior pockets or none at all because there is no mention of them in the product description.
Price: The L.L. Bean trench is $185.00 and the Land's End trench is $79.50.

Shifting gears, I'm now going to highlight some of the best pieces in each collection (in my most humble opinion).

Big Wins for L.L. Bean Signature

Waxed Canvas Maine Hunting Shoe

You really cannot talk about L.L. Bean Signature without mentioning the Waxed Canvas Maine Hunting Shoe ($129.00). I really can't get around how great looking these boots are. The contrast of the canvas on the leather trim, the green/brown laces, it just gets me. The only reason I, myself do not have a pair is that I just bought a pair of 8 inch leather Bean boots and I'd feel bad if they were neglected.

Corduroy Short

L.L. Bean really hit a home run with this Corduroy Short ($49.00). Available in navy and taupe, I think it is one of the most novel and interesting pieces in this collection. They have a nice length and the snap pockets on the front are a nice touch. I just wonder if they'd fit.

Madras Plaid Short Sleeve Shirt

I might be alone on this but I tend to think short sleeved shirts don't get enough love. If they're done right, they're wonderful in the summer, especially paired with jeans or chinos. This shirt would pair particularly well with the corduroy shorts, above, in taupe.

The Madras Plaid Short Sleeve Shirt ($55.00) one is done right; it has a button-down collar and the sleeves are actually short enough to look attractive. Also, take a look at the detail at the end of the sleeve; they added separate little cuff with a different piece of fabric. This is my favorite part of the shirt.

Big Wins for Land's End Canvas

Pocket Square

The pocket square is an underutilized and often forgotten accessory in America. Pocket squares of the hand-rolled silk variety can many times be prohibitively expensive for the average gentlemen. Cue Land's End's sueded cotton poplin squares (only $9.50!). They're available in several attractive gingham and plaid patterns, are 14 by 14 inches, and are the perfect way to add a pop of color to your outfit.

Rugby Shirt

I've never owned a rugby shirt but this one is making me consider it. I particularly enjoy the lack of embellishment on this rugby (no numbers or logos). It's got authentic details like rubber buttons, a covered placket, and tennis tails. This shirt in either navy (pictured) or the lighter, river blue would look killer paired with some nice rigid denim. While it might not be ideal for wear in sweltering heat, it would be the perfect shirt for cool spring days and nights.

Denim Jacket

This denim jacket ($69.00) is a piece of outerwear that most people slept on upon the release of Land's End Canvas. With my affinity for anything denim, this jacket really jives with me. I know it isn't the first denim jacket of it's kind or anything but it appears to be an affordable, solidly constructed garment. I'd prefer it to have two lower pockets as well but hey, you win some and lose some. It's got a nice deep indigo color that would go together well with your favorite chinos and a button-down.

And now for my sleeper favorites. Out of all the blogs I follow, I have seen little mention of these two pieces.

L.L. Bean Signature: Maine Standard Moc

Although the Ranger and Blucher mocs stole all the attention away from it, this is just a beautiful shoe. The Maine Standard Moc ($119.00) is leather-soled with a full grain leather upper. Pictured is the Chocolate Brown colorway, which I think is the choice option. Although the Canyon colorway look great too, for whatever reason, LLB decided to lacquer over the cut edges of the leather sole, making them much darker than that of its brother, Chocolate Brown. I really like the contrast of the dark brown and the lighter soles.

Land's End Canvas: Scorpion Necktie

Lately, there's be a revival of interest for old school, prep-inspired animal print ties. I think this one might be the most badass one I've seen. Scorpion tie ($39.50). 'Nuff said. Keep an eye out for a bat print tie. I'd be all over that one too. Anyway, this tie seems of some pretty exacting quality for a very affordable price. It is made of 100% silk, hand-sewn, and pleasantly slim at 2.75 inches in width. A white oxford and navy tie combo will always look great (especially when the tie has frickin' scorpions on it).

Overall, both L.L. Bean Signature and Land's End Canvas each have many great pieces to look at for the coming spring and beyond. Canvas is far less expensive but may not demonstrate the same quality that the Signature line seems to evoke. I would love to hear any feedback on the fit and quality any items you've bought from either of these collections.

Old Standbys: Docker's

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 03:46:00 +0000

I'm willing to bet that at least among my American readers that everyone has worn a pair of Docker's at some point in their life. Docker's are a brand so synonymous with the khaki twill cotton trouser that (in the US) it's name is frequently substituted when referring to such clothing.

When you think Docker's you might think of a schlubby desk jockey in pleated tent pants who obviously has now idea how to dress himself properly. I challenge you to think again. Over the recent years, semi-unbeknown to me, Docker's has released several cuts of their iconic trousers (see below graphic).

Maybe we can ignore the D4 for now, as they appear to be mimicking the profile of Hammer Pants. Even if you have thighs much larger than your head, I guarantee that you'll fit into at least the D3, classic fit. You probably want to look more toward the D2, however. The straight fit is my jam. The leg opening is a bit large but I live with it (remember what Hardy Aimes said about Trousers). I don't want to look like a top. I tried on a pair of pants with the D1 slim fit this weekend and it would never fly with my TBTYH. If you're familiar with Levi's, the D2 is to the 501 as the D1 is to the 514. Regular and small-sized bretheren, the D1 is your best bet.

The key advantage to Docker's is the price. Most of their line retails around $50.00 (usualy less) per pair. Most of their online stuff is actually on sale right now.

I already have a pair of standard flat front straight fit Docker's pants right now but what recently caught my eye was their new K1s.

The K1 is a 3-ply 100% cotton trouser inspired by the old military models, featuring a hook and latch closure and button fly (maybe it's because I am a Levi's 501 fiend but I love anything with a button fly). It is only available in the D2 straight fit. For $68.00, it's not going to break the bank and will most certainly last quite a while.

I'm thinking of picking up a pair for the spring. I'll be sure to take some fit pics for ya'll if I do.

Bonus:

This "Pantsformation" page on the Docker's site features a quotation from good old Mr. Mort!

"Khaki is like a fine bottle of brandy. You can never have enough, and they get even better with age."

It also features the "I Wear No Pants" Super Bowl ad...if you're into that...

Eyewear On the Cheap

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 05:26:00 +0000

If you are one of those who requires corrective vision and forgoes contact lenses, you know that prescription vision is EXPENSIVE. A visit to Lenscrafters with a pair of designer frames and prescriptions lenses can easily cost you $300-500. I predict that if you've ever done the Lenscrafters dance, you have certainly thought to yourself, "This is a scam." Thankfully, several options have sprung up online that are able to alleviate the economic burden of wearing some nice eyewear.

Preface: Before shopping online for eyeglasses, you'll need to get your prescription in each eye (which you probably already know via your optometrist) and your pupilary distance (which you probably don't know). Your pupilary distance is, as it might sound, the distance (in millimeters) between the centers of your pupils. Don't worry, your optometrist can accurately measure your PD or you can approximate it yourself via a mirror and a ruler. Once you've got these numbers, you're about ready to do some shopping for glasses on the internet.

One of the most recent players to this cheap, independent eyewear game is Warby Parker.

I've only just started to take a look at Warby Parker and I've been extremely impressed. They are definitely the most polished of the online prescription eyewear vendors (also the most expensive). Admittedly, Warby has some of the more attractive frames on the web. One of the best parts of the Warby catalog is that you can choose any frame in either black, light or dark tortoiseshell colors. There are other color schemes but most frames follow that pattern. Some examples:

Elbridge in Revolver Black - $95

Fillmore in Sandlewood Matte - $95

Miles in Amber - $95

These are just a few of my favorites on the men's side. I forgot to mention that every pair is $95.00 (with prescription) and free shipping to anywhere in the continental US. Warby Parker also has a fitting program where you can get up to five sets of frames delivered to your home for free to see how they fit. You just send them back in a prepaid envelope when you're done trying them on: pretty cool stuff. Oh yeah, they sell a prescription monocle too.

Now I'm not saying you shouldn't consider giving Warby Parker's a try. You really have nothing to lose anyway. I'm actually seriously considering giving some of these pairs a whirl with that fantastic trial policy they've got. At least to me, however, at the rate I loose and break glasses, I usually prefer the lowest cost option. And trough my extensive research, I have arrived at the conclusion that this option is Zenni Optical. Your most basic pair of frames with standard prescription lenses cost $8.00. However, in this case, lowest cost doesn't have to mean low quality. I have had several pairs, some for years, and they've held up reasonably well.

Alright, analogy time. Likening your options for eyewear to clothing:

Moscot : Ralph Lauren Purple Label :: Warby Parker : Ralph Lauren Polo :: Zenni : Thrift store

I liken Zenni to a thrift store because you can find really cool stuff there for extremely cheap but you need to root through a lot of garbage first. Zenni has many many frames and most are pretty insane (wacky patterns, colors, and unconventional frame shapes). Most are not for me but hey, if you find something quirky that works for you, excellent. The website is also pretty terribly designed but that's part of the fun!

On to the frames!

#4352 in Tortoise - $19.00

#2308 in Brown Tortoise - $8.00

#3379 in Black/Clear - $12.95

The prices listed are are for the base model, which includes only a standard mid-index lens include (I can't find it after their recent site redesign but I seem to remember that all the standard lenses had UV protection). You can get pretty crazy with the add-ons at Zenni Optical: Bifocals, Progressive bifocals, anti-reflective coating, different indexes (thinner lenses), even Transitions lenses if you're into that.

I think the best add on is tinting the lenses. For an extra $4.95, you can tint your lenses in three degrees (10%, 50%, and 80%) and seven colors (gray, green, amber, blue, purple, pink and yellow). This option effectively transforms any glasses into sunglasses.

Sunglasses example:

#2284 in Black - $8.00

***EDIT-EDIT: This model in black ~~has sold out~~ is back in stock! They're also available in brown and a zainy brown/clear tortoise shell pattern in a smaller and larger frame size. Also, there is another model that is similar and still available in black as well as brown/clear:

#3666 in Black - $15.95

Slap the $4.95 80% gray or green tinting on these mothers and boom, instant Wayfarer copy for the cost of a case of beer. You can't beat that with a stick.

As with most online shopping, you're going to have to carefully examine the sizing information (all frames have listed dimensions in millimeters for overall frame width, lens height and width, bridge width, and arm length) and make a best guess as to what will fit your face based upon your pupillary distance. A good practice I've found is to measure a pair of glasses you already have and compare the measurements to ones listed on the Zenni site.

In closing, as always the choice is yours. As far as service goes, Warby has the advantage with fitting policy but Zenni has the advantage for choice (in terms of number of frames). Warby Parker has some excellent offerings for a fraction of what you would pay for designer frames with lenses and Zenni has some real bargain basement eyewear that you probably wouldn't look half-bad in either. At least with this knowledge you won't be forced into a Lenscrafters paying $500 out the door.

Profile: Sir Hardy Amies, Sartorial Legend

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 04:38:00 +0000

A man should look as if he had bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care, and then forgotten all about them.

I stumbled upon this quotation today again and it got me thinking about Hardy Amies, the source.

Sir Edwin Hardy Amies was a British men's and women's wear designer, probably most famously the official dressmaker for Queen Elizabeth II. In his early adulthood, he lived in both France and Germany, learning the languages of both countries. Because of his language skills, he served Britain in the Second World War as a part of the Special Operations Executive, which was a secret group of unconventional warriors which specialized in espionage behind enemy lines.

After the war, in 1946, Amies opened a boutique on Savile Row, offering clothes for both men and women (unusual at the time, as Savile Row was nearly a center exclusively for bespoke men's suiting and shirting). He wrote a regular column in Esquire for quite some time and also wrote several books pertaining to Men's style. One of which was ABC of Men's Fashion. It is written in the style of a dictionary, from A to Z, defining elements of the male "costume" as Sir Amies would describe it. The above quotation is the first text disclosed. Although the author is essentially writing a series of definitions, his own opinion about the defined is often and liberally applied. Literally every kind of clothing, color, type of fabric, accessory, pattern you can imagine are described. Since the book was originally published in 1965, some of the prevailing opinions have changed regarding certain men's dress. However, you would not look at all ridiculous even today if you followed this book to the letter. To the contrary, the styles that he describes in the book very frequently mirror those that are popular today (fitted trousers and jackets, narrow ties, boots, etc.). Amies's predictions for the future of menswear are interesting in that they don't predict the cycle that we've observed to be true, rather, he envisions a progression or evolution toward a horizon point.

I received this book as a gift a few years back and I think reading it made me want to dress better and define my personal style. It is an entertaining, quick read and I highly recommend getting yourself a copy. Amies's writing is witty and funny. He is hilariously disdainful of American and cautiously respectful of Italian sensibilities when it comes to dressing oneself; obviously preferring the customs of his own country to that of any other. You wouldn't expect it from this type of book but there are several laugh-out-loud funny moments. Below, I will share some of my favorite excerpts, some funny, some otherwise.

Bowler Hat: The only truly smart headgear for a man, but it can only be worn in London or at a race-meeting. It should be worn either square on top of the head or tilted forward on to the nose. It should never be worn abroad, never by foreigners, and Americans who attempt to do so should be fined.

Deerstalker: An entirely functional cap designed to keep your ears warm and your neck dry while stalking deer. Sherlock Holmes wore one. You need not.

Fat Man: If you are vain enough, as I hope you are, to read this book, surely you can be vain enough to want to make yourself less fat. I am sure that all hints on dieting add up to the simple suggestion "eat less". If, however, you are one of the unfortunate who have a faulty metabolism, or want some help from me while you are slimming, then I can only offer one general word of advice: be sure to wear clothes that are too large for you and never those that are too small. You will then achieve one of the first rules of good dressing: you will look relaxed.

Italian Style: It is sometimes said that the French spend all their money on their food, the English on their gardens, and the Italians on their clothes. I think there is some truth in this...Finally, we must agree that the Italian style of dressing and above all their attitude to clothes and the wearing of them have a certain predatoriness, an air of masculine superiority softened with an almost feminine grace that intrigues women and has proved successful in the great game of sexual attraction.

Purple: I can see no use of this handsome, not unmasculine color except for ties, socks, and handkerchiefs. If you know how to wear them, you don't need my help. If you don't, don't.

Smartness: Smartness is more a matter of the appearance of you clothes rather than their style. Shoes polished, trousers pressed, and tie properly tied, are necessary factors in a smart appearance, whether your clothes are fashionable or not. If they are, then your smartness increases proportionally.

Style: The Oxford Dictionary has two long columns of definitions for this word...The second definition is as follows: "a person's characteristic bearing, demeanor or manner especially as conduction to beauty or striking appearance." I do not think any man aims at beauty or striking appearance, but he can certainly aim at style that is something more than being stylish. It means a harmonious and individual interpretation of current fashions, and even sometimes a demonstration of a wish not to abandon an old style too quickly, if at all...

Tie: ...A tie is more than the finishing touch to the costume: it is an integral part of it. You should never choose the cloth for a suit without considering what tie you are going to wear with it.

Trousers: ...You will not need pleats at the waist unless you have an important tummy...Prominent calves, the prerogative of he-men, should not bulge through the trousers. The width of the bottoms should be ordained by the size of your thighs. If these are large, too narrow bottoms will make you look like a top. See guys, us big-thigh-types had issues in 1965 and we're still at risk of looking like tops!

Walking Stick: An excellent and elegant accessory when you've broken your leg.

Wardrobe: To discuss a man's wardrobe is really to discuss a man's life. For the kind of clothes he has in it reveals his way of life; and their condition and degree of fashionableness will show his character...It is a good thing, on occasion, to think of your clothes as a wardrobe: a complete unit. You should plan to have an efficient one, rather like a tool kit for a car, to get you through any situation or emergency...A man should aim at building a wardrobe to help him to be efficient at his job and able to enjoy his leisure.

Young Man: Today a boy becomes a young man at fourteen: and remains one at forty. He is therefore a very important customer, especially as he insists on having the right to spend a large part of his money on clothes. He feels this is the easiest way available to him to expressing himself. It is sometimes more than vanity: it can be a demonstration of revolt: revolt against traditions and habits, the subservience to which he feels he has not made the world the happy place he thinks it should be. In the nineteenth century the young man openly copied the clothes of his elders. In the twenties he grew a mustache in an attempt to look mature as quickly as possible. Today, from the cut and length of his hair down to his narrow trousers and boots he wants to look as young as he can: and starts at twenty-five to feel the first pangs of depression at bing middle-aged. The young man thus rules the man's fashion realm. A newly launched fashion has no chance of success unless he accepts it. his desires dominate all trends. Thus the mature man will also reject all styles that do not help him to feel young. In fashion today there are no old men; only the young and the dead.

NOTE: If I get access to a scanner, I will scan in the images in the center of the book accompanying Amies's predictions for the future of menswear.

Finding Color

noreply@blogger.com (Tommy V.) — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 05:49:00 +0000

I love a monochromatic outfit as much as the next gentlemen. Black, white and gray can craft a powerful statement. Since the dawn of time, the palette of popular menswear has been heavy with neutral colors/shades: grays, white, dark blues and black. But to keep things interesting, color is a pleasant departure from a monochromatic wardrobe. Right now, in my sartorial journey, I feel comfortable introducing one, maybe two pieces of vibrant color into my outfits; a shirt and an accessory, a tie and an accessory, etc.

A colorful accessory is an excellent way to introduce color into your wardrobe. I've recently been turned back on to watches. I was as recently as last year a certified watch hater, as I had a cell phone that could tell time perfectly and carrying a watch just seemed redundant. After traveling to Europe and relinquishing my phone to the horrors of international roaming, I re-evaluated the usefulness of the watch. I picked up a very cheap but very simple Timex Classic Camper in black and have been using it with purpose ever since. Since, I've noticed how nondescript the watch actually is (which, incidentally is the reason I wanted it).

So I was in J. Crew today. They were selling 18mm watch bands for $15 in store (two for $30 online). I couldn't resist. There were several regimental styles. I debated internally for several minutes until deciding that I didn't have enough color in my palette and chose a pure red band. Despite the terrible service at this particular store, I walked out of there with a red NATO style watch band. Upon my arrival home, I put it on my Timex and this is what I saw:

If nothing else, I have a watch to match the team colors of both the notorious Chicago Blackhawks and Chicago Bulls. If you are truly a hater an have no respect after that, I can tell you that the band and second hand perfectly match my Marty McFly vest.