If ever there was a depiction of “walking in two worlds” it here.

One world reflects the current pulse of Dublin. Business people, tourists, and cyclists move along this path on the north side of the River Liffey at a quick pace. Their intent is focused. Even those sitting on  benches are texting, or chatting on the phone, or reading. Few take notice the bronze faces and bodies – frozen in place.

The Other world is the world of the famine walkers.  The world of 1845 when Great Hunger began. The walkers move quietly through the chaos of busy Dublin, slowly and deliberately. They plead for help, for food, for shelter from those who have plenty, but are are turned away or ignored…. treat like bothersome pests.

They begged the world to notice them then.  They beg the world to notice them now.

When the world looked away, they lost their homes, their children died, their families crumbled. They starved.

Now they are a memory that moves through the veil of time onto Custom House Quay so that we who have much, might be moved.

One of the first Famine voyages carrying the starving Irish to new lives in America left from the this place. The ship was named Perseverance. It sailed on St. Patrick’s Day in 1846 and landed in New York two months later.

The bronze figures were designed and crafted by Dublin sculptor Rowan Gillespie, and they were presented to to the City of Dublin in 1997.

Our guests on Thin Places tours in 2014 will visit this Memorial and a few others in Dublin.

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Lay Your Troubles Down on the Stone of Sorrows at Lacknacoo

Wouldn’t it be great to dump your sorrows somewhere, or cast your worries off onto a rock you could leave behind?

A flagstone dotted with ancient circular cup markings dating back thousands of years rests, half-buried on a hillside in Lacknacoo, and locals are venerating and laying down their worries still. The stone tops a small mound surrounded by a U-shaped circle of other stones. It is known as the Stone of Sorrows.

Lacknacoo is a small rural townland in Gartan, County Donegal, Ireland, notable for its rich natural beauty and cultural heritage. The area is steeped in history, reflecting the broader historical narrative of County Donegal. Next to the stone is a giant Celtic Cross. Similar juxtapositions of symbols of the “old” and the “new religions appear throughout Ireland.

The stone is obviously ancient, with its carvings and cupmarks dating from the pagan times, and the cross marks the transition to the new religion – Christianity.

Gartan is the birthplace of a prominent Christian and one of Ireland’s most revered patron saints.  St. Columba – aka St. Colmcille- was born in 521 AD, not far from the hillside of the two monuments. Columba founded numerous monasteries – including Iona in Scotland- and is credited with converting the Picts in northern Scotland.

STONE OF WORRIES – STONE OF SORROWS

Many stories are associated with the stone. It is known as the Lead na Cumha – or the Stone of Sorrows. One story states that an old, lonely man who had lost most of his family and friends was so sad that he wanted to take his own life. Seeing this, St. Colmcille led the old man to this flagstone and gave him some water to drink from the stone. After drinking the water, the old man’s sorrows no longer weighed heavily on his heart, and he left cured of his depression. After that, people came from all around to lay their sorrows at the stone and be healed.

People still come today and lay their sorrows, worries, and loneliness on this old flagstone. There is a local tradition of walking clockwise around the circle of stones that elevates the Stone of Sorrows, chanting prayers and meditating on the sorrows you wish to lay down onto the stone.

Many pilgrims will leave tokens – coins, feathers, crosses, crystals, other stones – as mark of devotion and gratitude.

The view from the Stone of Worries is vast. It overlooks the surrounding hills and boglands, which are said to be the dwelling places of the fairy folk (People of the Sí).

Fairy rings—circular formations in grass or mushrooms—were / are believed to be portals to their realm. Disturbing these sites was thought to bring bad luck or even the wrath of the fairies.

Fairy Lights: On rare occasions, locals reported seeing strange, dancing lights in the bogs. These were interpreted as fairy lights, possibly leading travelers astray.

The energy at the site of the Stone of Sorrows is palpable. One loses track of time. It’s a thin place.

The Stone of Worries
(Lacknacoo, County Donegal)

In the wild Donegal wind, the heather bends low,
And the bog holds secrets the rivers still know.
There lies a stone, old as sorrow, they say,
Where hearts come to lighten and leave what won’t stay.

Each hand that has touched it left more than a trace,
A burden unspoken, a sin, or a face.
The hollow is deep from the tears that it’s known—
The grief of a people made part of the stone.

No priest hears confession, no psalm needs be read,
The granite remembers the prayers of the dead.
You whisper your troubles, the stone hears it all,
Then carries the weight so you needn’t fall.

When mist curls like smoke on the mountain’s gray crown,
And the lark’s lonely song drifts gently down,
Walk to Lacknacoo with your heart open wide—
The stone will hold sorrow; you’ll leave with your pride.

For long as the wind sings through Donegal’s moor,
The Stone of Worries will carry one more.

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Muckross Abbey is a Thin Place

Muckross Abbey is one of Ireland’s most evocative monastic ruins — a hauntingly beautiful Franciscan friary tucked into a wooded grove in Killarney National Park, County Kerry. Its blend of serene spirituality and weathered stone magnifies its “thinness” of place.

Founded: Around 1448 by Donal McCarthy Mor, a local chieftain of the McCarthy dynasty of Desmond. It was established for the Observantine Franciscans, a reformed branch of the Franciscans known for strict poverty and simplicity.

The above image is taken from the fully restored Cloister Walk that winds around the Cloister Garth (the grassy area in the center.  In Medieval times, when monks occupied the cloister, this square walkway would have marked a border around the center of the complex. From this walk, there would be access to the dormitories,  refectory, the Chapter House (meeting room), and possibly the church.  It was also known to be a place where monks could walk in silent prayer – circling clockwise in the old, ancient tradition.

The Cloister Garth, where this majestic yew now stands, may have contained gardens that grew herbs and vegetables. The garths were often places of spiritual reflection for monks, sometimes places where they could relax, do laundry, and, depending on their Order, communicate with each other.

The Muckross Yew Tree

The great yew tree that grows in the cloister courtyard is at the heart of the abbey’s mystery. Legend says the friars planted it when the abbey was founded — but others believe it was already there, and the abbey was deliberately built around it, honoring the tree as a sacred symbol of eternal life. This puts the Yew tree at an age in excess of 600 years old.

Yews were considered sacred for thousands of years in pre-Christian Ireland. Because they duplicate their trunks during the growth process, they can live hundreds – some say thousands – of years.  In ancient times yew trees were believed to live in both the present world and in the eternal world. Yew branches were often placed in coffins before burial to help the soul across to paradise.

Our Lady of the Angels – Mirros Saint Francis

The abbey was dedicated to Our Lady of the Angels, echoing the name given to the small chapel near Assisi where St. Francis founded his order, prayed, and received his vision of heaven.  He also died there. According to tradition, the chapel was given the name – a tribute to the Virgin Mary – because angels could often beheard singing around the chapel.

From the moment of first glance across the fields  the Abbey exudes spirit – its own spirit. And that rare energy is also felt inside the walls, along the cloister, and among the many old trees in its graveyard. It’s a happy place, and our guests love going there.

The Poet’s Abbey

Muckross Abbey is sometimes called the “Poet’s Abbey”, as it is the resting place of three of Ireland’s greatest Gaelic poets representing the last flowering of the Gaelic literary tradition in Munster before the decline of the old Gaelic order:

Aodhagán Ó Rathaille (Egan O’Rahilly)
Geoffrey O’Donoghue of Glenflesk
Owen Rua O’Sullivan (Eoghan Rua Ó Súilleabháin)

“Under the Yew at Muckross”

Beneath the yew where shadows sleep,
The wind walks slow, the waters weep.
Stone ribs rise where the friars prayed,
And moonlight spills where vows were made.

Their voices drift through roofless air,
Soft echoes of a world laid bare.
A bell long broken calls no more,
Yet peace still hums through every door.

The poets dream in earthen beds,
Their verses whisper to the dead.
Each word, a leaf upon the floor,
That trembles where the roots run sore.

Time bends but never quite forgets
The cloister’s calm, the rain’s duets.
The holy tree still drinks their names,
Its heart aflame with unseen flames.

O Muckross, ruined, yet alive—
In every stone, the saints survive.
Their prayers, like mist from Lough Leane’s shore,
Rise up, and fall, and rise once more.

Blessings to all.

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After reviewing 12 general travel guidebooks on Ireland from publishers that included Insights Guides, Moon Guides, Fodor’s, Frommers, Lonely Planet, National Geographic, DK Eyewitness, Michelin, and Rick Steves our team has come up with our Top 3 General Guidebooks and our #1 pick for specialty guidebooks for Ireland.

INVEST IN A GOOD GUIDEBOOK  – If you think about how much a guidebook costs- $20-$25, that’s the cost of a nice lunch in Ireland. One guidebook can make such a difference in planning your tour and enriching the experience once you’re at a sight. Do yourself a favor and pick up a guidebook or two before you take your trip.  We’ve also got links for Books to read before you go to Ireland and Best recommendations for maps and apps.

Top 3 Ireland Guidebooks

#1 Rick Steves Ireland 2023
Rick is still our #1 choice and it’s not surprising that he is the #1 guidebook author in the world. His Ireland guide is the #1 best-selling guide on Ireland listed by AmazonWe like Rick’s Ireland guide because it’s the best book about general Ireland stuff with in-depth information on the sites covered. Because Rick Steves is a historian, his commentary on sites that he does cover is so thorough and rich, which makes the visiting experience so much more meaningful. His commentary on Dingle alone is worth the price of the book. He writes as if he is right there with the visitor, leading and guiding the tour. He also offers excellent commentary on the Burren, Galway, and a near 40-page chapter on Irish history, language, and slang. All of Rick’s guidebooks are updated every single year.

We’re also excited that our friends – and favorite guides Dingle – Kevin O’Shea and Claire Galvin of Celtic Nature Walking Tours – are featured in Rick’s Dingle section.  Kevin is also featured in episode 5 of our Thin Places Travel Podcast

Another perk of this book is that there is a pull-out map in the back. Several guidebooks have maps included but this book has the country map on one side and then a blow-up of 5 cities including Galway, Dublin, Belfast, Derry, and Dingle, AND the map can be used while still attached to the book, so it can be kept with the guidebook and not lost.

What we don’t like is that if Rick doesn’t like the site, he doesn’t include it. So you may want to look up a particular site and find that it’s not included. But the quality of what he does include is too good to not have the book.  So a second guidebook that is more like an encyclopedia (covers almost all of the sites) is needed, which is why we recommend the next two books from Frommers and Lonely Planet.

#2 Lonely Planet’s Ireland Guide
I love Lonely Planet’s publications and Fionn Davenport (one of their Ireland writers)  even more. This guide is included in our Top 3 not because it’s more comprehensive than any other guide, but because of the uncluttered, organized, and casual layout Lonely Planet guides offer. Their books are simple and easy to use. This book also features a Top 21 site list and a First Time in Ireland section, maps,  suggested itineraries, and a section on The Great Outdoors. In years past, Fionn Davenport offered such a unique, casual style – a great storyteller.  Though the editors have tightened up on his entertaining, casual commentary, Fionn’s style still shines through.  This is still the first guidebook I reach for when looking up sites in Ireland.

#3 Frommer’s Guide to Ireland 2022
Before this year, we weren’t big fans of Frommer’s. But they’ve outdone themselves with this year’s guide to Ireland. There’s great information about the country, the culture, and what to expect as well as a comprehensive listing of the most interesting general sites throughout Ireland and Northern Ireland. It’s both comprehensive and diverse with suggested itineraries, maps, and a whole section with the “Best of…” lists including Best Castle, Best Natural Wonders, Best Literary sites, and Best Museums. This guidebook has a serious “personal” appeal. It seems they’ve written it from a “peer perspective” rather than an authoritative perspective.  It’s what people want these days .. the personal recommendation of peers. The book also has a compact, tear-out map that has a “town key” so you can easily locate the region of most towns. This would be our #2 recommendation for a comprehensive (all-inclusive guide) to Ireland.

#1 Specialty Guidebook – Thin Places Focus

#1 Specialty Guide – Sacred Ireland, by Cary Meehan  (out of print – but available on Amazon from Used book dealers –  sometimes pricey but worth it)
It’s not often that we highly recommend an out-of-print book, but this year a buyer can at least obtain a used copy from book dealers out there.  Even though the copies run $60 and above, this is the best resource for thin places and sacred sites of high energy. Last year there were none to be had. It reads like a guidebook with the sites grouped in counties and provinces with a map for each county showing the approximate location of the sacred sites. Even the smallest stone circles, standing stones, and holy wells are mentioned. It was in this book that we found The Giant’s Ring in Belfast (not mentioned in any guidebooks I’ve seen), and it’s an amazing site – a large dolmen set into an earth-work ring that now serves as a public park just outside the city center. The majority of the sacred sites and megaliths in this book are not listed in any guidebooks or on maps.  It would take someone years to pull together a list like this. Cary Meehan also writes from a mystical perspective so those seeking the thin places will greatly appreciate her commentary and includes directions (I never depend on these, but they’re a good estimation). If you love thin places, this guidebook is a gold mine. Grab a copy while you can. 

Honorable Mention

Ireland Travel 101 by Pat Preston
If you ever wanted to pick the brain of an expert on travel to Ireland, you’ll enjoy this book by Pat Preston. For years she worked for the Irish Tourist Board and later had her own tour operation bringing visitors from America to Ireland. Sadly, Pat has passed away, but she left a worthy legacy in this guidebook. She begins the book with all the tips and information people want to know – how electricity works, how to get around, how to plan your trip, what to take… then she highlights various regions offering her personal recommendations for attractions, accommodations and food based on years of experience. I love the sections “If You Have More Time” as options for attractions and sites that are somewhat off the radar.  I could do a whole trip with just those recommendations.  A very worthy book to have in any travel library.

Ireland from the Mysterious World series, by Ian Middleton
This book is similar to Cary Meehan’s Sacred Ireland in that he lists megaliths and places of mystery. Ian Middleton is a great historian and has laid out the book well. There are also color photographs of the sites which are fabulous. The sites are laid out according to counties so it’s easy to pick add-on sites in an area based on what the inventory is. This book offers a good inventory of mystical places. Where Cary Meehan focuses on the mystical nature of a site, Ian Middleton (in this book) focuses on the site’s connection to Ireland’s legendary past.

Read other posts in this series on books
 Books to Read Before You Travel to Ireland
More Books to Read for Travel to Ireland 

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Treat Yourself to One of the Most Scenic Drives in Ireland – Slea Head

One of the most scenic drives in Europe is the Dingle drive around Slea Head – the western tip of the Dingle Peninsula where glimpses of Slea Head and the Blasket Islands provide stunning sea views.

The Dingle Peninsula was once referred to by National Geographic as “the most beautiful place on earth.”  Dingle never disappoints – and Slea Head is stunning.

Slea Head is a stunning coastal drive located on the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland. This scenic route offers breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean, dramatic cliffs, and picturesque landscapes. There are many stopping places to get out and absorb the magical landscape where you’ll find azure seas, wild tides, expansive sky (or foggy mist), cliff faces, famine hut ruins, Mount Brandon, hills that are your “40 shades of green,” megalithic ruins, mystical off-shore islands, and SHEEP.

Along Slea Head, you’ll find several notable sights and points of interest.  One of the most iconic stopping places is the larger-than-life-size crucifixion sculpture inserted a the cliff face. It is bright white and was erected as a landmark for fishermen to see through the fog and mist when returning home from the sea.

Some of the other interesting places along the Slea Head Drive are:

Gallarus Oratory: A well-preserved early Christian church, Gallarus Oratory is a stone structure dating back to the 6th to 9th centuries. It is an iconic example of dry-stone corbelling and is located near Slea Head. The parking lot requires a paid entry – but it’s worth it to go into the center and watch the film before venturing out to this 7th-century prayer cell.

Dunquin Harbor: This picturesque harbor offers stunning views of the Blasket Islands. The area around Dunquin is known for its rugged beauty and is a great spot for photography.

Blasket Islands: While not directly visible from Slea Head, the Blasket Islands are located just off the coast. They were inhabited until the mid-20th century and are known for their literary and cultural significance. Learn more about this at the Great Blasket Center.  The most often photographed Blasket Island is The Sleeping Giant – an island that resembles a giant taking a nap on the Atlantic tide.

Ceann Sibeal (Sybil Head): This headland offers panoramic views of the Atlantic coastline and is known for its distinctive jagged cliffs. This is also where several scenes from Star Wars: The Last Jedi were filmed in 2016.

Dunmore Head: The westernmost point of the Dingle Peninsula, Dunmore Head provides stunning views of the Atlantic and the nearby Blasket Islands.

Fahan Beehive Huts: Ancient stone huts, known as beehive huts, are located near Slea Head and offer a glimpse into early Christian or prehistoric habitation.

Coumeenoole Beach: A beautiful, secluded beach with golden sands and breathtaking views of the rugged coastline.

Ballyferriter Village: A charming village with traditional Irish architecture, pubs, and shops. It provides a glimpse into local life on the Dingle Peninsula.

Nearby on the hilly ground on the land-side of the road are abandoned potato farms, left when the blight hit, never to be reclaimed.  One can still see the potato ridges in the ground. Whether sunny, cloudy, or pouring rain, the Slea Head drive offers the traveler or pilgrim a peaceful, scenic look that has been relatively unchanged for centuries.

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The Art of Pilgrimage

The Seeker’s Guide to Making Travel Sacred
by Phil Cousineau

Phil Cousineau’s “The Art of Pilgrimage” is a masterpiece that combines poetic prose, spiritual wisdom, and practical guidance. It is a transformative read that encourages readers to embark on a pilgrimage, not only to distant places but also within themselves.

The book explores the transformative nature of pilgrimage and the deep, personal significance it holds for individuals seeking spiritual, cultural, or personal growth. Cousineau draws on his own experiences and the stories of various pilgrims throughout history to guide readers on a metaphorical journey.

One of the book’s strengths lies in Cousineau’s ability to blend the spiritual with the practical. He offers invaluable advice on how to prepare for a pilgrimage, emphasizing the significance of research, contemplation, and embracing the unexpected. His insights into the art of paying attention, being present, and finding the sacred in the ordinary are particularly enlightening. Readers are encouraged to view every step of their journey as a potential moment of revelation, fostering a sense of gratitude and reverence for the world.

The book delves into the idea that a pilgrimage is not just a physical journey to a sacred place but also a symbolic and inner journey that can lead to self-discovery and transformation. Cousineau discusses the importance of preparation, mindfulness, and openness to the unexpected during a pilgrimage, emphasizing that the true value lies in the process rather than the destination.

Through its timeless insights and eloquent storytelling, The Art of Pilgrimage has the power to awaken the pilgrim spirit in all who turn its pages, making it a must-read for anyone on a quest for deeper meaning and connection in life.

If we really want to know the secret to soulful travel, we need to believe that there is something sacred waiting to be discovered in virtually every journey.
― Phil Cousineau, The Art of Pilgrimage

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The Spiritual Power of the Stonehenge Preseli Bluestone

Deep within the heart of the Preseli Hills in Pembrokeshire, Wales, lies a source of mystical energy that has captivated spiritual seekers and curious minds alike for centuries. This sacred stone, known as Preseli Bluestone, has long been revered for its potent spiritual properties and enigmatic origins. As we delve into the heart of this ancient mystery, we discover the profound and transformative power that the Preseli Bluestone is believed to possess.

Stonehenge – a prehistoric, megalithic monument on the Salisbury Plain in England, has long been known for its mystical energy AND the standing stone alignments. The smaller stones on the inner circle are known as the “blue stones” likely because they take on a blue tint when wet. They are not native to the area, and one must wonder why with so many stones available close by, the builders of Stonehenge sought to bring in these blue stones from the Preseli Hills in Wales.

Preseli Bluestone, scientifically categorized as dolerite, is a unique and rare rock formation distinguished by its striking blue-gray hue. Geologically, it dates back over 450 million years and is renowned for its durability and strength. However, it is not merely its geological composition that makes this stone special; it is the spiritual resonance that emanates from its core.

According to ancient British and Druidic mythology, the Preseli Bluestones are said to be the same stones used in the construction of Stonehenge, the iconic prehistoric monument in England. The mystical aura surrounding Stonehenge is believed to be amplified by the spiritual energy of these bluestones, connecting the monument to the spiritual realms and cosmic energies.

Harnessing Earth’s Energies:

There’s an excellent book about the Preseli blues –Preseli Bluestone: Medicine Stone of the Ancestors by Sue Lilly and Simon Lilly. At this time it looks like it’s only available in Kindle. 

Spiritualists and energy workers are drawn to the Preseli Bluestone for its ability to enhance intuition, psychic abilities, and spiritual insight. It is often used in meditation practices and energy healing therapies to align and balance the chakras, promoting a sense of inner peace and spiritual harmony. Many believe that the stone’s grounding energy helps individuals connect with the Earth’s natural vibrations, facilitating a profound spiritual experience.

Preseli Bluestone is known as the “Stone of Ancient Mystery and Transformation”. It is said to have powerful energy that can help you connect with ancient wisdom and unlock your inner potential. This stone is also believed to have strong protective properties, helping to shield you from negative energy and harmful influences. Preseli Bluestone is said to resonate with the throat chakra, helping to enhance communication and self-expression. It is also associated with the solar plexus chakra, which is linked to personal power and self-confidence. This stone is said to help you tap into your inner strength and find the courage to pursue your dreams. ~ The Healing Pear

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Hand-Crafted Little Doors for the Fairy Folk in your Home

Fairy doors are charming and whimsical additions to any home or garden. They are small decorative doors that are often placed low on a wall, tree, or in a garden, with the belief that they provide an entrance for fairies or other magical creatures to enter and exit.

I’ve seen fairy doors at the bases of trees in decorative gardens. I’ve seen them in public forests where visitors have randomly added them… and subsequent visitors added crystals, small figurines, herbs, tiny toys. Random people participate in the belief of elemental beings that react to our gestures – our gifts back to nature.

Some of the most beautiful Fairy entrances I’ve seen are on Doon Hill in Aberfoyle, Scotland where local minister, Robert Kirk met with the fairies and wrote a book on their secret language (shortly thereafter he was kidnapped by them and disappeared only to later turn up dead at the top of the hill).

We featured Doon Hill and fairy forts on our Thin Places Travel Podcast (Ep 8) where we spoke to Spiritual kinesiologist, Carmel Costello and learned that the special “energy” or sense of place one feels in a particular place could be the presence of elemental beings we commonly call “fairies.”

My niece, Sarah was an amazing artist. She passed away at age 38 this past May. My son and I cleaned out her apartment and found that Sarah had a fairy door just above the baseboard in every room. She had painted and decorated each one – and even placed little furniture and tokens on the floor just below the door. We also found these intricately styled fairy doors she had created to be sold on her Etsy site. Three of them are pictured above.

The fairy doors in a room or garden are not just decorative. They are sweet reminders that elemental beings are among us. If the idea of fairies scares you … think of them as “angel doors.”

If you’re interested in adding a fairy door to your home, here is a page that has some ideas and tips to consider.

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60 Kings Are Buried in the Iona Abbey Burial Grounds

Legend states that there are forty Scottish Kings including Kenneth I, Kin of Dál Riata, founder of Medieval Scotland is buried there, as is his son Constantine I who died in battle – beheaded by the Vikings. Macbeth and Duncan – famous subjects of Shakespeare are also said to be buried there as are four Irish Kings and eight Norwegian kings. The abbey graveyard was a royal burial ground in the ninth, tenth, and eleventh centuries.

The old Medieval Street of the Dead is still visible as a wide, grassy path dotted with cobblestones that mark the path walked by the pallbearers of the kings who carried the royal dead on their last journey – from the Sound of Iona into the harbor at Martyrs Bay, then on up the hill and on to the Abbey burial grounds.

St. Oran’s Oratory – a restored 12th-century building – presumably for meditation was named for one of the twelve original monks who accompanied St. Columba on his last journey from Ireland. Oran is said to have been the first of the twelve to die. The graveyard grew up around his burial site. It is possible that the orator was erected over his gravesite. St. Columbia surely would have been buried here as well but his grave is unmarked. The common belief is that his remains are now under a small oratory adjacent to the abbey.

How Did Iona Come to Be?

Iona is an island in the Inner Hebrides off the west coast of Scotland. Iona was gifted to Saint Columba (Colm Cille) in 563 by King Conall of the Dál Riata clan which occupied the western coast of Scotland (what is now known as Argyle), and parts of what is now County Antrim in Northern Ireland.

Columba was a high-born Irishman from the north of Ireland who was well-connected in ecclesiastical and political circles. He founded many monastic settlements in Ireland that became large schools of learning, but in the mid-sixth century, he was exiled from Ireland due to a disagreement with another monk that spiraled out of control.

St. Columba Lands on Iona with twelve followers

Being forced to leave Ireland, Columba sought a new home in nearby Scotland. He negotiated a piece of land (which was the island of Iona) from King Conall in exchange for the promise to build a school of learning there  – and perhaps many schools throughout the kingdom as he had in Ireland. This could provide an education to the people of King Conall’s kingdom, and hopefully tame some of his uncivilized subjects.

According to legend, Columba left the north shore of Ireland by boat with 12 followers and sailed to Iona where he founded the first monastic settlement in Scotland – starting the spread of Christianity in that country.

The abbey on Iona thrived and many subsequent monastic settlements were spun off helping to spread Christianity – and education throughout Scotland. Iona grew in legend and lore, and it became associated with the highest form of sanctity. To be buried on Iona was a privilege granted to the greatest of men – Kings, Chieftains, Warriors, holy men.

The famous Book of Kells – now on display at Trinity College in Dublin, Ireland was penned at Iona in the 8th Century. Monks removed it from the Abbey during the Viking invasions so as to keep it preserved. It ended up in a monastery in Kells Ireland, from where it took its name.

Some Humble Graves

None of the Medieval markers stand on the graves anymore, making it impossible to tell the exact locations of the royal burials. Some of the original markers are in the Abbey museum, but names were not memorialized on markers in those days.

Though it’s known as a royal burial ground, the graveyard was also the final resting place for the local island community. Some graves are marked with names and others marked only by a stone.

One particularly moving grave marker reads:

A Sailor
OF THE
1939-1945
WAR
MERCHANT NAVY
Found 23RD SEPTEMBER 1940
Known Unto God

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Downpatrick Head in Ireland is on the north coast of County Mayo. It was named for St. Patrick because he is believed to have built a church there, and there still are remains of an old church and a stone marker that supposedly shows where St. Patrick’s original church stood.

Downpatrick Head Ireland

As you approach Downpatrick Head the land opens up in a vast plateau overlooking the wild Atlantic Ocean. You are walking into one of the many “wild places” in Ireland. Even the most boisterous of travel groups will become quiet as they approach the cliffs. The landscape pulls each person into a walking meditation.  It almost demands silence.

There’s a lovely cliff walk where one can survey the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean against the patterned cliffs while hundreds of birds roost in the crevices and swoop and dive all around the cliffs. We were there in May when the “sea pinks” were in bloom and we couldn’t resist taking pictures of them on the cliff tops.

We spent the morning in this magical thin place never noticing the passing of time.

There is also a holy well and a memorial to 25 Irishmen who fled from British Redcoats during a 1795 uprising. They hid in the caves at Downpatrick Head, but couldn’t get back out before the tide came in and flooded the cavern. They all perished.

But Downpatrick Head is best known for Dún Briste (Broken Fort) or “the sea stack” which is an outlying stone stack just off the cliff face. The landscape there defines “wild” which is so common to the West of Ireland.

Dún Briste – (broken fort) the sea stack is the landmark most associated with Downpatrick Head in Ireland on the north coast of County Mayo.

My mind frequently wanders to Ireland. In those rare, still, moments when I can close my eyes and imagine certain places, I almost always go to Ireland. In my imagination, I often place myself at Downpatrick Head. I contemplate the time change – Is it daylight or night time?  Where is the moon (or sun)? Is it raining, cold, warm? Are the flowers peeking through the grass?  I hear the sound of the waves, the wind, the birds. I feel the damp air. In my mind, I notice all of the details.

Once I settle into that landscape in my mind, the colors take over, then the sounds, then finally — the wind.  It seems there’s always wind blowing in Ireland.

I’m reading a fantastic new book by Robert Macfarlane entitled Landmarks, which is about the language that developed around elements of the landscape in the UK and Ireland, and the power of “landscape language.”  McFarlane comments in the very first chapter about language shifts that move away from nature and toward technology.

“…Under pressure, Oxford University Press revealed a list of the entries [in the new Oxford Junior Dictionary] it no longer felt to be relevant to modern-day childhood. The deletions included acorn, adder, ash, beech, bluebell, buttercup, catkin, conker, cowslip, cygnet, dandelion, fern, hazel, heather, heron, ivy, kingfisher, lark, mistletoe, nectar, newt, otter, pasture and willow. The words introduced to the new edition included attachment, block-graph, blog, broadband, bullet-point, celebrity, chatroom, committee, cut-and-paste, MP3 player and voice-mail.”

I plead guilty to loving technology, gadgets and the amazing world of telecommunication, but I’ve never embraced it at the expense of stopping and noticing the details in nature.

Sheep roam all over the cliffs at Downpatrick Head … just as they’ve been roaming for centuries.  I wonder if they notice the details.  Probably not.

Here’s to March … and here’s to Spring … and here’s to noticing the details. Those details – the things we only notice when we stand still and look – are the things that connect me to the thin places.

We explore Downpatrick Head is on some of our Thin Places Tours of the Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland.

Photos by Dan and me (Mindie Burgoyne).  Special thanks to Joe McGowan and John Willmott who helped identify “sea pinks” and their healing properties. 

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