Thinking of Drinking

Sweet 16 of Mixology Wrap Up

2009-12-04T10:00:00.001-06:00

Second Semi-Final Round
Back on October 22nd, the folks at Boka Restaurant Group held the second semi-final of their "Sweet 16 of Mixology," a casual cocktail competition that's been going on all summer and fall. This round saw Zach Friedlander from Relax Lounge (and the coming soon Gilt Bar) against Charles Joly from the Drawing Room.

Both competitors brought their A-games and mixed up great drinks. Bacardi 8 was the sponsoring spirit, so rum drinks were in order.

Zach Liked it Hot
Zach modeled his drink after the classic Hot Buttered Rum, with a few twists. He made his own butter mixture, infused with some wonderful spices, and had homemade marshmallows that he roasted with a handheld torch.

Charles Kept it Cool
Charles used some rich spices as well, including Rosehip Liqueur and Pimento Dram along with fresh juices to create a rich, savory concoction.

Charles served his punch style, while Zach had heated tureens holding his warmed rum mixture.

Both drinks were great, and the vote was close. Zach won the day, and advanced to the finals.

On to the Finals
The final match, between Benjamin Schiller of Boka and Zach Friedlander took place on Wednesday, November 11th. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to attend, but I heard the drinks were fantastic and the crowd was huge. Read more about it here.

Congratulations to Benjamin Schiller, who took top honors!

Repeal Day 2009 in Chicago

2009-12-03T11:02:00.004-06:00

This coming Saturday, December 5th, is the 76th anniversary of the repeal of Prohibition. On December 5, 1933, Utah (yes, Utah) ratified the 21st Amendment to the U.S. Constitution, giving the needed 3/4 majority to end the thirteen year drought of legal spirits in the U.S.

On Saturday, whether you're at home, or out with friends raise a toast to Repeal Day. If you're going out in Chicago, here are a few options that night for celebrations:

The Drawing Room, 937 N. Rush - the Chicago Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails (aka Chicago LUPEC, of which I am President) will be gathering there for classic cocktails in celebration of the day at 7 pm, and all (21+) are welcome to join the informal celebration. Look for special cocktails and more at this great cocktail bar.

Custom House, 500 S. Dearborn - This great restaurant and bar is celebrating the occasion all day (11a-11p) with $5 cocktails honoring the occasion. The cocktails are made with small-batch Midwest spirits, and include choices like the Rock 'n Rye and the "Bathtub" Gin Rickey (made with our No. 11 - can't wait to try it!).

In Fine Spirits Lounge, 5420 N. Clark - Join the folks from Templeton Rye (reputedly Al Capone's favorite) in a period-themed celebration of classic cocktails at this great cocktail lounge in Andersonville.

Sage Grille, 260 Greenbay Road in Highwood - you'll find a menu of classic pre-Prohibition cocktails for the occasion at this great restaurant, and you'll be in a historic neighborhood for restaurants, where many a moonshiner made hooch during Prohibition in the back alleys.

Regardless of where you are, or what you're doing, I hope you'll raise a toast to this most American, most appropriate drinking holiday. Cheers!

Long Time No Write

2009-12-02T12:44:00.002-06:00

Hi there, how are you? Good, I hope. It's been awhile since I've posted anything here. There's been plenty going on, and plenty of great drinks consumed, but I somehow fell off the writing bandwagon for awhile. I think I OD'd on it, actually - I had signed on to be the Chicago Cocktails Examiner, and realized that writing two or three posts a week (they actually want four) was too much for me to handle. After all, I do have a full-time job that pretty much takes up all of my waking time, and I try to have a personal life now and then, and I try to write fun stuff here too.

Well, I've had a month to ponder it all, and am ready to get back to the blogging. I've got some fun updates from events, as well as some new cocktails I've been working on and such. So stay tuned, and thanks for checking in with me now and then!

Cheers.

Fall Cocktail Ideas, Part II

2009-10-14T14:47:00.006-05:00

With the change of seasons, favorite cocktails change as well. Here are a couple that feel like Autumn to me. These both were developed for the Fall Flavor Festival that I wrote about a few weeks ago.

Pomegranate Punch (aka the Fall Fizz)
1½ oz Vodka (I used North Shore, of course)
½ oz Brandy (used Paul Masson Grande Amber)
2½ oz Pomegranate Juice (POM)
½ oz Fresh Orange Juice (used Cara Cara oranges)
½ oz Fresh Grapefruit Juice (yellow grapefruit, not red)
½ oz Ginger Simple Syrup (1:1)
1 oz Club Soda
Combine first six ingredients over ice, stir well. Top with soda and garnish with fresh orange slice.

This one works great as a punch, you can simply change the oz to cups and have servings for 6 people. It's great for football tailgating, you can just mix in the soda right before serving, top the glasses at the event with it, or just leave it out entirely.

Fall of Brazil
My partner in crime, Jessi Brickner, developed this one - it's delicious
1½ oz Cachaça (Leblon)
½ oz Vanilla Liqueur (Navan)
1 Egg White
Sparkling Apple Cider
Lime Wedge
Rim a rocks glass with cinnamon sugar, fill with ice. Shake first three ingredients, plus lime wedge, with ice. Strain into ice-filled glass and top with cider.

When we served this one en masse to our class, I stirred the first three ingredients with a whisk first to emulsify the egg, then poured the mixture into a shaker. It worked really well. This was a great one for introducing people to egg whites in drinks.

Everyone's Gone to Mercadito

2009-09-29T15:00:00.010-05:00

Mercadito, the well-known NYC restaurant group, just opened a branch here in Chicago. I had a chance to visit last night and try a couple of cocktails.

My expectations were high, given that a number of Chicago's most notable mixologists left other gigs to go and work there. I was a little surprised at just how many people went to work there either full or part time (Jen Contraveos, Dan de Oliveira, Maura McGuigan, Casey Sullivan, Daniel Love, Kyle McHugh), especially since the well-known Tippling Bros. had been brought in to do the cocktail menu.

So how was it?
In short, I was impressed. Although all the cocktails and mixed drinks use an agave spirit for the base, they offer a range of options - from the accessible margarita (made the right way, with fresh juices and fruit) to more esoteric offerings with mezcal.

Here are the drinks I tried, both of which had insider-y names (which was entertaining to me, but I wonder if the general public cares and how they respond):

Misty's Sleeve

Named for Misty Kalkofen from Drink in Boston (or more properly, her tattoo). Misty's a fantastic bartender and advocate for the industry, a founder of LUPEC Boston and a heckuva lot of fun too.

Made with Blanco tequila, ginger, hibiscus, fresh valencia orange juice, a touch of serrano chile, and a half rim of hibiscus salt.

It was delicious. Spicy, complex, and fresh - very well balanced. Jen Contraveos, at left, made it for me.

Tres Coops

A salute to three liquor industry folks who have the last name Cooper - Ron Cooper from Del Maguey, Rob Cooper who owns St. Germain, and John Cooper, who owns Domaine de Canton. Rob and John are brothers, from a long family line of liquor industry professionals, but they're not what you'd call close, according to word on the street. Ron is not related to either of them, but is a heckuva fun guy and he imports fantastic mezcals.

Made with the Del Maguey Chichicapa mezcal, St. Germain, Domaine de Canton, Averna amaro, egg white and grapefruit. Casey Sullivan, pictured at left, made mine.

Apparently this drink is polarizing among the staff, some love it, some think it's a bit too dry and a bit forced - trying too hard to make the three Coopers idea work. I thought it worked really well, and the drink was delicious. It was also well balanced, with the creamy texture from the egg and deep complexity. It was drier than the first, but I like 'em dry so I enjoyed it very much.

One other thing I thought was great at Mercadito was the lineup of flavored salts and spices for the glasses. Rather than the stacking trays that could have been there for months with who knows what in them, they have small dishes out for each options that they clean & refill often.

MxMo XLII: Dairy

2009-09-28T11:08:00.013-05:00

It's time again for Mixology Monday, the monthly celebration of cocktails on blogs around the world. This month, our hosts are the fine folks over at eGullet, led by group manager Chris Amirault. Here was the instruction for this month's theme:

"Any drink using a dairy product is fair game: milk, cream, eggs, butter, cheese, yogurt, curds, you name it. Given the importance of dairy products in drinks dating back centuries, there are lots of opportunities for digging through vintage receipts for a taste of the past, and as always innovation is highly encouraged."

I've recently written about another drink that calls for cream, the Smashing Pumpkin. In addition, I give you the Jasmine Orchid.

I am enamored with jasmine these days, although have set it aside for the last month or so. This drink calls for both jasmine syrup as the sweetener, and jasmine tea to enhance the jasmine further. It's definitely a dessert-style drink, and I served it alongside apple pie at a pairing dinner - it was a nice pairing. Of course, since it requires a lot of shaking, I made the guests who wanted refills shake their own!

Jasmine Orchid
2 oz Vanilla Vodka (see note below)
1 oz Jasmine Tea Syrup (see note below)
1 oz Cream or Half & Half
1 large egg white
1/2 oz Jasmine Tea (see note below)
1 oz Club Soda

Combine vanilla vodka, syrup, cream, egg white and tea in shaker; shake well without ice. Add ice, and shake vigorously, longer than you think you might need to. Strain into champagne flute or coupe glass; top with soda. If desired, garnish with a few jasmine tea leaves or a jasmine pearl.

For vodka: I used our Tahitian Vanilla, which is getting rather hard to find since we suspended production. I imagine others made with real vanilla will work too, such as Tru.

For syrup: heat 1 cup of water, steep one tea bag (or equivalent) in water for 45 secs. Remove tea bag, add one cup sugar, and stir well to dissolve. Cool completely, and refrigerate.

For tea: steep 1 tea bag in 1 cup water for 45 seconds, then remove tea. Cool completely, then chill.

I used Republic of Tea Asian Jasmine White Tea for this drink, so the advice above is for their tea bags. As with any tea, you may need to adjust based on the strength and potency of the tea you use.

Thanks to the folks over at eGullet for hosting this month!

Note: photo is from istockphoto.com.

Cocktails from the Fall Flavor Festival

2009-09-18T14:57:00.008-05:00

Last night I teamed up with mixologist Jessi Brickner and Chef Adam Grandt from Sage Grille in Highwood on a Fall Flavor Festival. We led students through six cocktail ideas for fall parties and three appetizers. The cocktails included two for Halloween, two for Football Parties, and two inspired by the season. We had a lot of fun coming up with new recipes, and I wanted to share some of them here.

GPR Sparkler
- refreshing and savory, perfect for a cheese course or with a lighter herbed, roasted meat.
¾ oz Gin (used Distiller’s Gin No. 6)
1½ oz Pear Puree (used Perfect Puree for class, also good with Ceres)
Sparkling Wine (used Saint Hilaire Limoux Blanc de Blanc Brut 2005)
Fresh Rosemary

Shake gin, puree, and sprig of rosemary with ice, strain into champagne flute. Top with sparkling wine, garnish with rosemary sprig.

Smashing Pumpkin
- not-to-sweet dessert style drink, with hearty fresh pumpkin and spice flavors and rum undertones
2 oz White Rum (used Ron Matusalem Platino)
1 oz Cream or Half & Half
3/4 oz Pumpkin Puree (fresh is best, but it's a little early for pumpkin in Chicago yet)
1/2 oz Ginger Simple Syrup
Dash Cinnamon & Allspice

Shake ingredients with ice, strain into cocktail glass. Top with additional dash of cinnamon, and garnish with candy pumpkin or black plastic spider.

Sweet 16 of Mixology, Elite 8 Round 2

2009-09-10T15:42:00.007-05:00

Last night saw another great cocktail competition as part of Boka Restaurant Group's Sweet Sixteen of Mixology. The field was narrowed to eight competitors in the last round, and we're on our way to the final four. Despite the competition, this event is full of laughs and fun, as you can see from the pictures.

This match featured Charles Joly of the Drawing Room vs. Maura McGuigan of the soon-to-open Mercadito (and formerly of Graham Elliot). This was a tough match, both drinks were delicious. The sponsor was Bacardi, so Bacardi Silver was used in both cocktails.

Charles used fresh canteloupe puree, lemon balm, and spearmint, and garnished with mini melon balls and herbs.

Maura added Rittenhouse rye, fresh grapes, ice seasoned with Herbsaint, fresh citrus and a fresh mint sprig garnish.

The guest judge this week was R.J. Melman from Hub 51.

In the end, Charles emerged victorious, and will advance to the final four in a few weeks. He joins Benjamin Schiller, newly of BOKA (formerly of In Fine Spirits), who won last week's match.

Illinois Liquor Tax Saga Continues

2009-08-25T19:21:00.005-05:00

This could get really interesting - today the Chicago Tribune is reporting that Rocky Wirtz and his family-owned Wirtz Beverage (2nd largest liquor wholesaler in Illinois, and operating in several other states) have filed a lawsuit challenging the constitutionality of the Illinois law that included the huge liquor tax increases I've written about recently. Stay tuned, we'll see if there's even a hearing before the law takes effect next week.

If Life is a Bowl of Cherries...

2009-08-25T11:00:00.002-05:00

Ever since I got my handy-dandy cherry pitter, I love cherries. So much easier, and more fun, than pitting with a knife. Sour cherry season is pretty much over, and I had one quart left. So, seeing as I had some time on my hands this past weekend, and some sweet cherries too, I made rummed cherries (using sour cherries) and brandied cherries (with sweet cherries). I started with some recipes from reliable sources, and tweaked here and there. Here are the recipes I used, with citations:

Brandied Cherries
from the Art of the Bar by Hollinger & Schwartz, and recommended by Bobby at Drink Dogma and Marleigh at Sloshed! (adjusted proportions to match what I had on hand):

2 pounds dark, sweet cherries
1/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup water
2/3 oz fresh lemon juice
1 small cinnamon stick (used Mexican stick cinnamon)
3 1/2 oz brandy (Paul Masson Grande Amber)

Combine the sugar, water, lemon juice, and cinnamon in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the cherries and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, remove the cinnamon sticks, and stir in the brandy. Yummy, and I'm going to try with a cocktail tonight.

Rum-med Cherries
Posted on the Chanticleer Society by user Evo-lution, apparently for a competition.
½ cup soft demerara sugar (used brown sugar, but will try again with demerara)
½ cup water
1-2/3 oz fresh lemon juice
1 cinnamon stick (Mexican cinnamon again, all I had)
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Half a scored vanilla pod (used a dash of vanilla extract, didn't have any beans on hand)
1 pound sweet pitted cherries (Bing)
1 cup aged rum (Cubaney 5 Anejo)

Wash and pit cherries. In a saucepan, combine all ingredients except the cherries and rum and bring to the boil. When liquid begins to boil, reduce heat to a light simmer, add cherries and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add rum and cool immediately. Transfer cooled cherries and liquid to clean glass jars and refrigerate.

What am I Doing in the Pits?
After these adventures, I found myself with extra cherries (mostly sour), and I found myself with a bunch of cherry pits. Thought it might be interesting to see whether they have any flavor to them on their own, so I made some cherry pit syrup, and stuck some pits into some high-proof spirit to infuse. Still waiting on the infusion, but the syrup is pretty mellow.

Used 1 cup sugar, 1 cup water, and a pound's worth of cherry pits. Simmered 10 minutes, then cooled completely. It's a lovely pink color, from the bits of cherry still left on the pits, with hints of cherry flavor and nuttiness. Not as much flavor as I would have liked, unfortunately. I did make a couple of cocktails with it, but the flavor was too light to come through much.

Thanks to Erik Ellestad over at Underhill Lounge, I later learned that I could have made Ratafia, or perhaps Cherry Pit Ice Cream. Next time, I have to smash up the pits, and give one of those recipes a try. I should've known that a quick blog search would turn up some great experiments already run by trusted bloggers! Next time, I'll do that first.

The Rest of the Cherries
went into this delicious sour cherry streusel pie. YUM.

Jenever Juniper

2009-08-20T11:49:00.001-05:00

Thank you Donovan for the title (sort of). Darn it, now I'm hearing that song in my head.

What with the Chicago launch of Bols Genever this week and my attendance at the Low Country Libations seminar at Tales of the Cocktail last month, I've had a lot of genever lately. It's high time I wrote something about this most interesting spirit.

First, a brief background and introduction:

Pronunciation and Spelling: They tell me it's pronounced "Jen-eee-vur" in English, "Yeh-nay-vur" in Dutch.You can spell it genever, jenever, jeniever, or even Hollands Gin if you like.

General History: Genever is the precursor to traditional dry gin (which was the English's attempt at copying genever). It has been made in the Benelux region (Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg, as well as parts of France and Germany) for centuries - the first recorded mention of the word is from 1623 in The Duke of Milan by Philip Massinger. Like so many spirits, it started as a medicinal tonic, but gradually became more popular for it's flavor.

US History - in the 1860's, genever was very popular in the US - it was 5 to 6 times more prevalent than English dry gin, and made several appearances in cocktail books from that time. Hence why we're seeing it now again - it's an essential part of exploring this country's cocktail history.

Production: Genever is traditionally made with a malt wine base. Typical grains used include corn, rye, barley and wheat. The grain is fermented, and then distilled, into something that resembles unaged (white) whiskey. It is then infused with herbs and/or flavored with herb distillates/flavorings to give it some herb notes, and might be distilled again. The only required herb is juniper, and it does not have to be discernible in the spirit.

In short, genever is all about the grain distillate, with hints of herbs (maybe), whereas dry gin is all about the herbs alone.

Oude vs. Jonge
These are the two main categories of genevers. The words mean "old" and "young" but the terms don't relate to the age of the spirit. Instead, they relate to the production process and makeup of the spirit.

Oude - the base spirit must be at least 15% malt wine, it must be at least 70° proof (35% alcohol), and can have no more than 20 grams per liter of sugar (the best have none). Aging is optional, but if you do it you must age it for at least one year. Most genevers are aged in used American whiskey barrels.

Jonge - base must be no more than 15% malt wine, it must be at least 70° proof (35% alcohol), and can have no more than 10 grams per liter of sugar (the best have none). Jonge is often very light in flavor, some have described is as essentially vodka (highly refined distilled grain) with a tiny bit of malt flavor.

Genever in Chicago
There are a few products labeled "genever" available in Chicago now, and one that is coming very, very soon.

Bols Genever - I attended a launch party for this one this week here in Chicago, and came home with a bottle autographed by their distiller. It should start showing up very soon in these parts - it's been in SF and NYC for almost a year now. They say it's lighter in flavor than the original genevers (and former versions of itself - they say this current recipe dates to 1820). It still has lots of character, with rich malty/yeasty flavors.

Boomsma Oude and Jonge Genevers - I've only had the Oude, and not since I've tried so many others. I need to revisit this one.

Anchor Genevieve - this one has rich, strong malty notes with hints of herbs. It is higher in proof than the others I've tried, and definitely makes itself known in cocktails.

Zuidam Genever - more herbal than some of the others, this one has hints of malt with a variety of herb notes. I haven't had this one in awhile either, so I'll have to revisit.

Genevers Not Available in the US
This is a much, much longer list. Here are a few of the great ones I got to try that you can't get here:

Oude Schiedam - (pronounced Skee-dam). 100% malt wine base - made with 2/3 barley, 1/3 rye, distilled twice and infused with only one herb - juniper. Bottled at 80 proof. This was the most authentic genever we tried, true to the old tradition of genever production made with 100% malt wine, not blended. It was incredibly malty and rich.

Rutte & Zn Oude Simon - 70 proof, and a blend of malt wine and neutral grain spirit. It was softer and lighter, and more herbal than the Oude Schiedam.

Rutte Paradyswijn - this is reportedly the most expensive genever in Holland, it is aged in Bordeaux casks for 8 years. Eminently sippable, it has soft malt, floral and fruit notes. Delicious.

Other Lowlands Beverages

Old Schiedam Liqueur - Mandarijnen Moutwijn Likeur - At the Tales seminar, we also tasted this fantastic liqueur. Made with a malt wine base blended with neutral spirit, it has rich fruit flavors (from hand-grated mandarin oranges) blended with hints of malt. Apparently this has been discontinued and is quite rare now - I was delighted to get a taste.

Els La Vera - a malt wine liqueur infused with herbs. The dominant flavor is grand worwmood (Els = alsem = artemisia absinthium), so it reminded me a great deal of Jeppson's Malort. Apparently, "Els" is a style of spirit and this "La Vera" was but one version of it.

Local Cocktail and Food Pairings

2009-08-18T10:37:00.013-05:00

We get invited to participate in some pretty cool events. One of the most fun in recent memory was billed as a Pottery Barn Dinner. We teamed up with our new friend, potter Melissa Monroe, as well as Chef Efrain Cuevas from Clandestino, to design a five-course dinner with cocktail pairings.

As many as possible of our ingredients were fresh and local, including our spirits. Melissa made all the dishes for the meal in her pottery studio, and hosted the dinner in her barn/studio. Chef Efrain and I pulled many ingredients from her fantastic garden for the food and cocktails. She even has some roosters running around in the garden - see pic below.

Here's a rundown of the menu, with the drink pairings. Unfortunately, I don't have photos of the food & drink - we were so busy making them I didn't take pictures! You can find some more photos of the event here and here (in an article about the dinner).

First Course:
Food: Caprese lollipop amuse, then summer gazpacho with shrimp in prosciutto jackets

Drink: Cucumber Caipiroska - posted on my blog last week.

Notes: I was really happy with the garnish for this one, I used a cucumber wheel with a sprig of oregano flowers in it. It was a great starter drink, and the cucumber and herbs played nicely with the gazpacho.

Second Course:
Food: Squash blossoms filled with local cheese, dipped in egg batter and pan fried, served on a bed of fresh greens with vinaigrette

Drink: Muddled Mary

1½ oz Aquavit Private Reserve
½ oz Fresh Lemon Juice
¼ oz Simple Syrup (1:1)
3 Cherry Tomatoes
Few Sprigs of Fresh Herbs (Basil, Oregano, Thyme, etc.)
Muddle tomatoes, simple, herbs and lemon. Add aquavit and ice, shake well. Strain into cocktail glass, garnish with cherry tomato on rim.

Notes: This one was a bit harder to pair with - salads are tough. I aimed more at the blossoms and cheese, and to integrate the flavors of the drink with the vinaigrette. It wasn't my favorite of the set, but I think it worked relatively well, especially with the cheese-stuffed blossoms.

Third Course:
Food: Housemade fettucini with zucchini buttons and wild mushrooms, in a vodka cream sauce

Drink: Grapefruit Basil Fizz
2 oz Distiller’s Gin No. 11
¾ oz Fresh Grapefruit Juice
½ oz Simple Syrup (1:1)
1 oz Club Soda
Large Basil Leaf + Sprig
Combine gin, juice, simple and basil leaf in shaker. Shake well with ice, strain into glass filled with ice. Top with soda, garnish with sprig.

Notes: In this one, I tried to provide a nice foil for the rich cream sauce with some citrus and a hint of bitter from the grapefruit, along with some fresh herb notes from the basil.

Fourth Course:
Food: Grilled (local) chicken with herbs and a maple glaze, pole beans, potato terrine

Drink: Apricot Thyme
2 oz North Shore Vodka
1½ oz Apricot Puree/Juice
½ oz Aperol
1 oz Club Soda
2 sprigs fresh Thyme
Shake vodka, puree, Aperol and one sprig of thyme with ice. Strain into ice-filled glass, top with soda. Garnish with fresh apricot
slice and thyme sprig.

Notes: I was a little worried here too, since chicken is so lean. We went lighter on the drink, and pulled in the Aperol for depth and balance. This drink worked especially well with the maple glaze, it was really spectacular.

Fifth Course:
Food: Olive oil almond cake, grilled peaches, homemade peach ice cream

Drink: Ginger Gimlet
2 oz Distiller’s Gin No. 6
1 oz Fresh Lime Juice
¾ oz Ginger Simple Syrup (1:1)
2 sprigs Fresh Mint
Shake gin, lime, ginger syrup and one sprig of mint with ice. Strain into cocktail glass. Garnish with 2nd sprig.

Notes: This dessert was rich, so I went up a little in alcohol to balance out the fat and intensity of the flavors. The drink worked especially well with the ice cream, the mint and ginger played very nicely with the peach and helped cleanse the palate after the rich ice cream.

All in all, a fantastic evening of food, drink, pottery and conversation.

Illinois Liquor Taxes - Highest in the Nation

2009-08-12T11:38:00.017-05:00

Recently I wrote about the liquor tax increase taking effect on September 1, 2009 in Illinois (link to .pdf from IL Dept of Revenue).

BIG PICTURE
The increase was included in the "Illinois Jobs Now!" act, which is a $31 billion capital improvement bill - lots of road, bridge and transit expenditures, as well as some money for schools and community development. To pay for it, there are lots of new taxes and fees, including an increased sales tax on candy (which has it's own headaches), sweetened tea & coffee drinks, increase title, registration and drivers license fees, taxes on grooming & hygiene products, and the controversial introduction of video gambling.

The increased beer, wine and spirits taxes are only expected to raise $119 million, so they're really a small part of this massive spending bill. However, the increases leave Illinois with the highest liquor taxes in the nation. That's right, the HIGHEST in the nation among non-control states, by a factor of 31% over the next highest state.

COMPARISON TO OTHER STATES
One of our customers (thanks Adam!) gave me a handy-dandy chart today that shows all the tax rates in all the states in the US that are not control states (meaning the state governments do not run the liquor stores and/or act as the distributor - they are traditional three-tier states, so we're comparing apples to apples).

Top Ten States
Although the Marin Institute says this is good news, this is really unfortunate for our industry and the consumer who imbibes. Here's the ranking by state liquor tax rates.

1. Illinois, as of 9/1/09 - $8.55 per gallon
2. Florida - $6.50
3. New York - $6.43
4. Hawaii - $5.98
5. New Mexico - $5.68
6. Alaska - $5.60
7. Minnesota - $5.03
8. Oklahoma - $4.56
9. Connecticut - $4.50 (Illinois would have been tied for 8th before)
10. New Jersey - $4.40

WHO GETS HURT

Consumers who Drink. In most cases, a 750 ml bottle of spirits is going to cost at least $2 more, perhaps $3, regardless of the bottle's pricepoint, and before sales taxes. In Chicago, for example, once you factor in the federal, state, county and city manufacturing taxes, as well as sales taxes, more than 25% of the cost of a $30 bottle of spirits is tax - not money to the manufacturer, distributor, or retailer - taxes.

Liquor stores near the border with another state that has lower taxes. Wisconsin is $3.25 per gallon, Indiana is $2.68 per gallon. Illinois is $8.55. The difference translates to a few dollars per bottle - in each case, it's over $1 per 750 ml bottle in tax, before markups. People near borders will cross them and stock up, even if doing so is technically illegal. So we're sending business to our neighboring states.

The Little Stores. The single, independently owned liquor stores will probably suffer. They often don't have the resources and clout to buy huge quantities and stock up before the increase, or negotiate with the powerful distributors, so they'll be hit with the increase (and price increases) sooner. And little producers, like us, don't have a lot of wiggle room on pricing to absorb the tax, so our prices will go up, despite the tough economy.

Bars and Restaurants. Bars and restaurants are already suffering in this economy, and now they'll be forced to either raise drink prices or work on a slimmer margin, neither of which is particularly appealing. Once you break the tax increase down to a per-ounce count, in theory it would be about 5¢ per ounce. In reality, after distributor markups, it will be more like 8¢ an ounce in additional tax per ounce, or around 25¢ per cocktail (assuming about 3 oz of taxed liquid total). It may not sound like a lot, but that 25¢ per drink will add up quickly. And it doesn't matter what caliber of spirits you're using, if it's over 20% alcohol, it's the same tax regardless of price.

Mixology Monday: Vodka, Vodka, Vodka

2009-08-10T20:57:00.011-05:00

After a brief break (for Tales of the Cocktail), MxMo is upon us again. Our hostess Amelia over at Felicia's Speakeasy has chosen "Vodka is Your Friend" as the topic for this month. She posed some questions along the way, such as "what do YOU like about vodka? Why do you keep that bottle of [brand] on your shelf? What vodka-based drink has stayed in your personal book of beloved cocktails? ‘Fess up."

Vodka Still Rules
Despite what many of my cocktail-loving friends wish was the case, vodka is still the most popular spirit in the US. I spend lots of time in liquor stores, bars and restaurants, talking to people about spirits, and vodka is undoubtedly still at the top. Many, many people are afraid of gin, whisk(e)y and other categories, and unfortunately many people out there like a sweet cocktail where you can't really taste the liquor. So whether we like it or not, vodka ain't goin' anywhere anytime soon.

I Like Vodka
There, I said it. We make vodka (and it's really good, if I do say so myself). When I have it, it's usually over ice with a lime wedge or twist of lemon. I'm a simple girl when it comes to vodka. Sometimes I order a vodka-based cocktail too, but that's usually only if it's made with our vodka. And sometimes I make cocktails with our vodka, usually for an event, or cocktail pairing dinner.

Here's a cocktail we served last week at an event (more on the event later), and have been enjoying ever since our garden cucumbers and herbs started growing en masse.

Cucumber Caipiroska
Inspired by a recipe by one of my friends and mentors, Bridget Albert in her book Market Fresh Mixology

2 oz Vodka (used North Shore, no surprise there)
3/4 oz Simple Syrup (1:1)
4-5 lime wedges
4 cucumber wheels
2 sprigs Oregano

Muddle lime, 3 cucumber wheels, one sprig of oregano and syrup. Add vodka, then add ice and shake with ice. Pour shaker contents into glass, garnish with remaining cucumber wheel and sprig.

FYI, for any who might not know - a Caipiroska is simply a Caipirinha made with vodka rather than cachaça.

Enjoy! Happy MxMo and thanks to Amelia for hosting!

Sweet 16 of Mixology, Round 6

2009-08-07T10:00:00.003-05:00

Perennial is hosting a good-spirited mixology competition among Chicago-area bartenders, and this week I was finally able to attend one of the head-to-head matchups.

This round, it was Adam Seger from Nacional 27 versus Tim Lacey from the Drawing Room. Both used Bacardi 8 as their base, with a variety of juices, fruits, liqueurs and bitters. Tim even brought his lovely wife Lisa, to play along with his Tiki-inspired drink on her ukelele.

It was a close, close match. The guest judge, Lin Brehmer from WXRT deemed it too close to call, and deferred to the popular vote among the audience. Once the ballots were counted, the tally was 49 to 47. Adam Seger won the nail-biter. Congrats to Adam, and well done, Tim!

Here are some photos from the night.

The Nose, 50 Year Old Scotch and Layoffs

2009-08-06T12:57:00.018-05:00

50 Year Old Scotch, and The Nose
Last week, I had the pleasure of attending a small luncheon with Richard Paterson (aka The Nose), the Master Blender for Whyte & Mackay. We were there to talk about and taste Scotch whisky from The Dalmore, which is owned by Whyte & Mackay.

I don't usually go to these things, but my friend Lori invited me and I've been meaning to learn a bit more about Scotch, so I went. It was a lot of fun, and The Nose is a very entertaining host.

Here are some highlights:

What we tried - The Dalmore 12, the Gran Reserva, The Dalmore 15, and King Alexander III. Interestingly, all of these are made from the same distillate - the variations come from the duration of aging and type of wood used, and in the blending, which The Nose oversees. The Nose favors a wide range of casks - across these whiskys, they use sherry casks (and butts), used Madeira, marsala, bourbon, wine and other barrels, as well as first-fill oak . Someone in the know once said that 70% of a whisk(e)y's flavor comes from the wood, so these choices obviously have a big impact on the flavors.

What I tried - I (and only I, at this lunch anyway), got to try the Dalmore 50, aged 50 years. It supposedly retails for $1,500 for 100 ml, so it was a rare treat indeed. Despite it's age, it was not overly woody - it had great depth and complexity, and a very long, rich finish. Loved it. Not sure I'd pay $1,500 for 100 ml, but was grateful to get to try it and won't soon forget it. Interestingly, the next day, I got a notice that Glenfiddich is also releasing a50-year old Scotch for $16,000 a bottle (not sure what size of bottle). Guess super-aged spirits are the new thing in the Scotch world.

Tasting Technique - The Nose's tasting technique is completely different from the other whisky expert with whom I have sampled. In fact, I think the two might come to blows over it if they were to talk about it in person. The Nose does NOT want you to warm up the spirit, and is open to adding a few drops of water where appropriate. They agree on nosing with each nostril, and moving the spirit around, but have different approaches about what to do with the spirit in your mouth as well. This sounds like a great opportunity for me to practice my technique at home, me thinks.

The Nose showed us a cool trick that I hadn't seen before. Fill a glass 2/3 with water. Then put a handkerchief or napkin (clean, please) on top of the glass. Poke your finger through a couple of times, to get the napkin wet. Then, pour whisky on top, slowly. Pull the napkin out quickly, like you would for that trick when you remove the tablecloth and leave the dishes behind. The whisky will be left floating on top. The Nose said you could even insert a straw and drink the water first, and it would stay separated. I'm sure this is just a trick with the densities, but it was cool nonetheless. I'm totally going to use that one.

Scotch Industry Layoffs
I used to be in HR, so I always keep an eye out for labor/employment stuff in the liquor industry. Lately, the ongoing recession is being blamed for significant cuts at some of the world's largest Scotch producers. At the Dalmore lunch, one of the topics that came up was the plant closures and resulting layoffs that Diageo (owner of Johnnie Walker, among others) is implementing. The decision has been covered widely in the drinks press, and there have been a number of protests against the actions, as well as analyst reports that it's not really due to the recession (the whisky industry has continued growing, after all). It's a tough situation, because the Scotch industry is so entrenched in some of the small towns where the plants are located, in both the history and the economy. However, with the consolidation in the liquor industry, most of the brands are owned by a global conglomerate like Diageo, which will continually seek to streamline, optimize and consolidate it's operations across business groups and brands, especially in a tough economy.

At the time, Whyte & Mackay had not yet announced their own layoffs, which were announced this week. Interestingly, they made a profit last year, and not an insubstantial one (£25.6m pretax profits over 18 months). Yet they are still being hit with cuts. Sounds a little like big-firm politics to me - sometimes the big conglomerates have to offset losses in another area with costs from a profitable business unit, which is especially frustrating to the individuals in that unit.

From the scuttlebutt following these announcements, additional layoffs and closures may happen in the Scotch world. Guess we'll just have to wait and see, and sip, in the meantime.

Mixologist Lynn House

2009-07-16T12:00:00.003-05:00

From the beginning, Lynn House struck me as a great bartender and avid cocktail historian. She has a true passion for sharing the history and preparation of great cocktails. When we met, I was at the Drawing Room with some friends, and Lynn made drinks for our group (most of whom were not then as nerdy about cocktails as me). My friends were completely enraptured with Lynn’s presentation, in a way I had never seen before. In fact, I still hear stories about that night from time to time, she made such an impression.

I knew immediately that I wanted to write about Lynn here, but didn’t get around to asking her or actually setting up an interview for entirely too long. A few things have changed for Lynn since that first encounter. She’s now running the drink program at Graham Elliot, a truly innovative restaurant here in Chicago, and she just won a prestigious cocktail competition. She also just recently started living on her own again, after her daughter got her own apartment nearby.

Life on the Stage, a Little Work on the Side
Lynn grew up in Columbus, OH (I still like her, even though she’s a die-hard Buckeye). She studied theatre in college, and studied at the British American Drama Academy after graduating from Miami University of Ohio with a BFA in Theatre.

She spent many years as a professional actor and writer, primarily in live theater. She won acclaim for many roles, including a 2000 Best Actress award for her portrayal of Ruth in The Gift Horse at the Goodman Theater. She worked with many accomplished directors, writers and performers, including one of her mentors, Regina Taylor. I wish I could have seen her on stage – I am sure she'd be fantastic, and it comes through in her work now.

Like many of us, Lynn worked at a restaurant during college. She continued working in the restaurant business after college as well, to supplement her pursuit of acting. She mostly waited tables, and became a head trainer at Spring. She became more interested in beverages there, and started researching wines, beers and spirits, and teaching classes to the staff about them.

A Fork in the Road
About three years ago, Lynn found herself at a crossroads. A seven-year relationship was ending, and she enrolled in Bridget Albert’s Academy of Spirits and Fine Service (the same class that has been so influential for others in Chicago). She was so inspired by Bridget, and by the class, that she dug much deeper into cocktails and beverages. She was waiting tables at Chalkboard at the time, and created her first original cocktail – the Chalkboard 75, which is reportedly still on the menu.

Dreams, Cooking, Music
It’s been 2½ years since she stepped behind the bar full-time, and she hasn’t looked back. After leaving Chalkboard, Lynn honed her skills at the Drawing Room, which is where we first met. She later joined the opening team at Graham Elliot, which just celebrated its first anniversary. Lynn runs the beverage program at GE, and these days finds her greatest inspiration in her dreams, in cooking and in music. Those seem like natural inspirations, especially at Graham Elliot. One of Lynn’s favorite cocktails, London Calling, was inspired by the song and became enduringly popular – it will be included in Gary Regan’s upcoming book, The Bartender's Gin Compendium.

In Lynn’s cocktails, you won’t find a ton of extravagant, unusual ingredients – she favors balance first, and a rationale and purpose for each ingredient in the drink. She takes influence from classic cocktails, but aims to put her own distinctive spin on them. One of her other favorites was the Blueberry Hill, a gin-based variation on the classic frappe with crushed ice, but served in a cocktail glass.

Creating Her Own Work
Regina Taylor gave Lynn a pivotal piece of advice – to “create your own work.” In the theater, it meant writing and collaborating with others to create meaningful roles and characters, and Lynn pursued those paths in the theater. She continues to write now, when she has time and inspiration. She finds that the advice is even more meaningful to her at GE, though - she is creating her own work in a different medium, and she is loving the opportunity to create great cocktails and share them.

Cocktail Champion
Although she doesn’t live for competition, Lynn has entered a couple of cocktail competitions recently. In her latest outing, she won the Illinois round of the GQ/Bombay Sapphire competition last month, and will soon be going to Las Vegas for the national competition! Here’s her winning cocktail:

Summer Siesta
1½ oz Bombay Sapphire
¾ oz Thatcher's Cucumber liqueur
¼ oz fresh lemon juice
¼ oz simple syrup
2 diced strawberries

Muddle the berries and syrup, add other ingredients and stir. Serve over crushed ice and garnish with strawberries and cucumber.

Fast Facts

Find her: at Graham Elliot on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, or Saturday – guaranteed to be there between 5 and 8 pm, and often there later, but she might be behind the scenes

What to order at her bar: Rites of Spring was a recent favorite, it’s one of her most creative drinks to date. However, she’ll likely have some fantastic summer drinks on the menu now, so I recommend going over to check it out.

Hobbies: When she’s not at GE, she can often be found in her home garden. She is an avid gardener, growing tomatoes, herbs, asparagus, onions, and more – some of it for use at the restaurant in her cocktails. She’s an avid cook as well, and sometimes puts her homemade ingredients into beverages as well- such as the homemade apple butter she used in the London Calling.

Hangouts: She loves Kuma’s Corner for burgers, Bar Louie for beers, and her back porch for most everything else.

Test Drink: If she has confidence in the bartender, she might order a Mojito or Manhattan. If not, a beer. Her favorite cocktail, when made well, is the Margarita.

On a Deserted Island: she’d want pictures of her family, guacamole, and chilled Champagne (preferably Egly-Oruriet)

Personal Life: Lynn is single.

Something you probably don't know: She definitely doesn’t look it, but Lynn is a grandmother! Her beautiful daughter Lexi (short for Alexia) was named after Alexander the Great, and Lexi has two beautiful daughters of her own– Leilani and Aaliyah. Lynn dotes on her granddaughters, and loves spending as much time with them as possible.

Photo credits: first photo is by Jim Columbo, second photo is mine, third is by Carlos Cuarta.

Tales of the Cocktail - Days 3 and 4

2009-07-15T20:15:00.006-05:00

On Thursday night, after the spirited dinners, most of the Chicago contingent got together for a toast outside the Old Absinthe House. Like last year, it was one of my favorite nights - we had a great time, just hanging out and talking with everyone.

Some Highlights from Days 3 and 4 Sessions

Low Country Libations - I had the opportunity to taste some really interesting aged genevers from the Low Country, namely Belgium, Luxembourg and Holland, and learn more about the spirit. We also tried some whiskey, and some wine, made in the region.

Sugar: The Science of Sweet - we tried a variety of types of sweeteners, talked about a few more, and got a scientific explanation of them as well. It was fascinating. I hope to play around with some additional options in the near future.

Hollywood Cocktails - in the most entertaining session I attended, we learned about some famous cocktails from the golden age of Hollywood - who drank them, how they became popular, etc.

I'll likely be writing more about all of these topics in future posts.

Other Highlights

Our friends Tim Lacey and Cristi DeLucca from the Drawing Room competed in the Leblon Caipirinha competition on Friday night. Unfortunately they didn't win, but they put on a good show and represented Chicago well.

The Bartender's Breakfast on Saturday night followed the funeral procession for a bad drink (this year, the Red Headed Slut was buried), and it was a blast - good drinks, music, and a great crowd - it was must better orchestrated than last year (when we gave up on getting in, despite being on the list). For those who haven't attended, this one starts at midnight and goes as long as you do. I got home around 4 am.

Alcohol Taxes Going Up in Illinois

2009-07-14T12:08:00.012-05:00

Despite statements that he wasn't sure he supported an alcohol tax increase, and despite the fact that we already had the highest liquor taxes in the Midwest among non-control states, Governor Pat Quinn signed a bill (now Public Act 096-0038, starts p. 117) yesterday that will increase the taxes on alcoholic beverages effective September 1, 2009. It's part of a big public works package intended to stimulate our local economy, with some significant tax increases thrown in to fund it ($109 million from alcohol taxes).

Before the Increases
Here's where we stood before the increase on Illinois taxes (these are just for the state, not the feds):
Beer and Cider up to 7% Alcohol - $0.185 per gallon
Wine and others under 20% Alcohol - $0.73 per gallon
Spirits and anything else 20% Alcohol or more - $4.50 per gallon

Just for comparison, the state tax rate on spirits in neighboring states are:
Indiana: $2.68 per gallon
Missouri: $2.00 per gallon
Wisconsin: $3.25 per gallon

So we were already significantly higher than the three states near us with similar alcohol regulatory schemes.

After the Increases, Effective September 1, 2009
Here's where we stand after the increase:
Beer & Cider up to 7% Alcohol - $0.231 per gallon ($0.046, or 25% increase)
Wine & Others under 20% Alcohol - $1.39 per gallon ($0.66, or 90% increase)
Spirits & anything 20% Alcohol or more - $8.55 per gallon ($4.05, or 90% increase)

The power of the beer lobby is apparent - they typically spend significantly more in lobbying efforts in Illinois than the wine or spirits lobby.

How it Plays Out - Who Gets Hurt
It remains to be seen how this will play out exactly - it was difficult to even find the legislation through the major media outlets covering the news. It's safe to say that many prices will rise in response.

A $4.05 per gallon increase translates to $.80 per 750 ml bottle in additional tax. However, the tax is assessed at the distributor level of the three-tier system, which means both the distributor and retailer markups will be applied before it gets to the consumer. So that $.80 may be $1.60 or more in increases at the liquor store.

Here are some of the likely outcomes from where I'm sitting:

Costs will be higher to restaurants and bars, who are already hurting and preferring not to raise drink prices. They'll either have to raise prices or shift to lower-priced spirits.

Value-priced spirits will be hit the hardest, because they have the same increase as higher-priced items - it's not tied to price but to alcohol level and volume.

As usual, the little guys will suffer the most across all three tiers (manufacturer, distributor, retailer). Small companies like ours don't have the leverage with our partners to insist that they share in the increase. Either we have to eat it and reduce our prices, or we have to live with a price increase. Neither sounds particularly appealing in these tough economic times.

Once it shakes out a bit more, I'll try to post a further update on how the industry responds to the increase.

Tales of the Cocktail - Days 1 and 2

2009-07-09T16:53:00.005-05:00

We're officially in the thick of it here in NOLA for the Tales of the Cocktail. Yesterday, I went to some great industry-focused seminars - one on managing costs in a bar while maintaining quality, and another on building strong partnerships among bar/restaurant owners, brand representatives, consultants and others in the industry. They were educational, more for when I have my distillery hat on, than for when I'm writing about cocktails, so I'll keep that stuff to myself for now.

Then we had the big opening reception last night. I saw a few more Chicago friends, as well as some folks from other places, and had a great time trying the cocktails and enjoying the atmosphere. Later, I headed back over to the "Mixo House Bar" to hang out for awhile.

Today I've been to a few seminars, and have written a few posts for the Tales Blog - you can find all my posts here. There will soon be one explaining these pictures.

Tonight it's the Spirited Dinners, and I'm headed to Maximo's. I waited too long to book a seat, so I didn't get into my first two choices, but I'm excited about this one too. I'll report back soon.

Cocktail Bloggers all Around

2009-07-08T10:11:00.018-05:00

Like many of my cocktail-minded friends, I am in New Orleans for the seventh annual Tales of the Cocktail. The official kick-off toast is but a few hours away, and this year's agenda is packed full of great seminars and events.

I came down a couple of days early to attend most of the Drink.Write 2009 event. The folks at the Cocktail & Spirit Online Wri ters Group did an amazing job of pulling together seminars and events for the group, and I got a lot out of it. Yesterday, we spent a couple of hours discussing garnishes, and a couple of hours on cocktail photography. I hope to improve in both those areas going forward, although you'll be the judge on that.

Here are a few pictures (and descriptions) from some of my adventures so far. Next year, you really should try to come if you're not already on the way - it's a lot of fun, the people are fantastic, the drinks are great, and the opportunities for learning and making new friends are plentiful.

CSOWG Events
These first two are from some of the CSOWG events. We had a wonderful dinner at Rambla on Monday night, sponsored by Leblon. The food and drinks were fantastic, and the company was great too. On Tuesday, we had a nice lunch at On Tuesday, we had lunch at Wolfe's restaurant, hosted by Zwack, and along the way we all had a shot of Zwack.

Zwack has an interesting history, it's the official spirit of Hungary, and they sell 6 million bottles in Hungary to the 10 million residents each year. Wow.

I was really impressed (and dismayed, since we can't really compete with all of this) at the level of sponsorship and donations the group received from the big liquor companies. It's great because it enables them to have these kinds of events, but it makes it really hard for us little guys to compete.

The Mixo House
The CSOWG have a great house with a communal bar for the group, and a kitchen. They have a variety of spirits, fruits and mixers available for their members and guests - it's really an incredible setup.

Here's Matt Robold the RumDood with his before & after pictures tasting Jeppson's Malort, which I've written about a few times. I think I might have to submit this to Malort Face on Flickr.

Sazerac Bar
On Monday night, we went to the newly reopened Sazerac Bar in the Roosevelt Hotel, and had the namesake drink. A Sazerac. Here's the legendary Chuck Taggart and his partner Wes, as well as a picture of my Sazerac. I've been following Chuck's recommendations for eating and drinking in New Orleans religiously, and it was a delight to spend a little time with him in person.

Along with the Fairmont Hotel folks, the folks at Sazerac made a big investment here too - glassware, exclusively made with Sazerac Rye, etc. It was a nice cocktail - it was about #10 that day, so can't really judge it too harshly.

Secrets of Benedictine
Last night, I went to an event hosted by the folks at Benedictine, called "Secrets of Benedictine." I was hoping to learn a bit more about it, but that wasn't the focus of the event - it was a big cocktail party with Benedictine-based cocktails. There were moving "statues," lots of guys in robes, and some cocktails and snacks to try. They also had stations where you could have your fortune told and be awarded a glass reflecting your social status (I was a "knight" and got a silver goblet), which you then had filed in the alchemy room.

Proper Independence Day Cocktails

2009-07-02T14:01:00.015-05:00

In my last post, I promised to suggest some proper cocktails for this upcoming July 4th holiday weekend. I got some great comments from visitors, and some cocktail suggestions too. Then I promptly got busy with a bunch of stuff and didn't post anything else. Before the holiday passes me by entirely, here are a few ideas.

Guiding Principle: Drink American
In these tough economic times, on this most patriotic of holidays, you should support American-owned and run companies with your Independence Day libations. Maybe that small craft distillery in your area, or that craft brewery or winery. If you don't have those, or don't want/like those, then stick with American-made, traditionally American spirits & beverages.

OPTION ONE: Rye Whiskey
A spirit similar to the rye whiskeys you find in liquor stores today was popular in the US early on in the colonies - immigrants came here and brought grain distilling traditions with them, which they applied to the grains they found here. Rye was common, so rye-based whiskey was common too. It was popular enough that when the government tried to tax it to pay off the national debt in the1790's, we had the Whiskey Rebellion.

Whiskey Smash
(Adapted from this one on the Rye Whiskey is for Patriots blog)
2 oz Rye (Rittenhouse 100)
1 oz Fresh Lemon Juice
1 oz Simple Syrup (1:1 ratio)
2 sprigs of mint
Add ingredients to shaker, including one sprig; shake well with ice. Strain into ice-filled old-fashioned glass, and garnish with additional sprig of mint.

As far as I know, this drink originated in the US, and derives from the julep - a faster version, really, without all the pomp & circumstance. Some recipes leave out the lemon juice (and have less sugar), but I like that bit of citrus to lighten it up a little for the summer.

Or Try Rock & Rye
This is another interesting rye whiskey-based option, that I must admit I've not yet tried. Rock & Rye was created in the US, and was one of the few US-made spirits poured at the World's Columbian Exposition in 1893 according to Eric Felten's recent article. It was originally a medicinal tonic, thought to help colds and other illnesses.

I've never bought a bottle of the pre-mixed product labeled "Rock & Rye" at the liquor store. I imagine, like so many things, it won't taste like what it's trying to be. So I'll be trying this recipe, by the legendary LeNell Smothers:

LeNell's Homemade Rock & Rye
1 750-ml bottle rye whiskey (I prefer Rittenhouse 100 proof)
1 6-inch string rock candy (add more according to your sweetness preference)
2 orange slices
2 lemon slices
2 fresh cherries pitted or perhaps brandied or whiskied cherries (not the fake red maraschino, please)
2 dried apricots
1 pineapple slice
Tea bag full of dried horehound (optional)

Put all ingredients in a large jar and cover. You can start enjoying after one day; however, the flavor will change as rock candy dissolves with time. As you deplete the supply, add more whiskey and candy as needed. If the fruit slices show signs of breaking down, replace. Always keep fruit covered with alcohol; this stores indefinitely as long as the fruit is submerged. Of course, like all alcohol it will oxidize after a really, really long time.

Note: Horehound adds an extra bitterness to balance the sweetness and also acts as a cough suppressant. If you do use horehound, only steep for a couple of hours, then remove to prevent overly bitter flavors.

While some drink Rock & Rye on it's own over ice, I would recommend trying LeNell's Rock and Rye Cooler, or perhaps some other concoction with it. I better start mine tonight so I can have it on the 4th, assuming I can find or make some rock candy!

OPTION TWO: Bourbon
Bourbon is another distinctly American creation, and there are many fine brands available. With bourbon, I am inclined to either try one of the recipes that Alex Smith suggested in the comments (in the spirit of the great melting pot, using a few accents from other places) or do something with the fresh berries coming out in the farmers markets near me, such as:

Blackberry Julep v3.0 (adapted from v2.0)
1 1/2 oz Bourbon
1/2 oz Blackberry Liqueur
1/2 oz Simple Syrup (1:1 ratio)
3/4 oz Fresh Lemon Juice
4 fresh blackberries
6 Mint Leaves + One Mint Sprig
Muddle the mint, blackberries and simple syrup in a mixing glass. Add the liqueur and bourbon. Strain into a highball (or julep) glass filled with crushed or shaved ice. Swirl with a bar spoon until the outside of the glass frosts up. Garnish with a sprig of mint and a fresh blackberry.

OPTION THREE: TIKI
The whole concept of Tiki culture in restaurants/drinks is a distinctly American creation as well, and most of the drinks use rum, which was popular back in the 1700's. So there are lots of options - I'd recommend consulting one of the great tiki bloggers, or try this one from the legendary Kahiki restaurant:

Polynesian Spell
1½ oz Gin (we used Distiller’s Gin No. 6, are you shocked?)
1 oz Grape Juice
¼ oz Triple Sec
¼ oz Brandy
1 tsp Simple Syrup
¾ oz Fresh Lemon Juice
Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Whatever you drink this Independence Day, enjoy it and have fun with your friends & family!

Note: pictures in this post are from istockphoto.com.

Cocktails for Independence Day

2009-06-19T13:18:00.011-05:00

You Must be Joking
One of the consequences of being a cocktail blogger is that I receive press releases from PR people for lots of other spirit companies - several a week. And often they are for companies that only make products in the same categories that we do. It's not like I hide who I am or what I do for a living. Do they really think I'm going to write about that Russian vodka? At least I know what they're up to, I guess.

This week, I've received several with ridiculous suggestions for cocktails for the 4th of July holiday. In every single case, they suggest that we use an imported spirit for the cocktail. Really, for the celebration of American Independence? We should use imported vodka (from Poland, or even (gasp) England?), tequila, gin (from England again), or absinthe (France)?

What to Do, What to Do
I think a proper 4th of July cocktail should be made with an American-made spirit, perhaps influenced by what was popular back then. For what was popular back in the day, I'd go with RUM. A great American-made rum. I'm reading And a Bottle of Rum right now, so I've definitely got rum on the brain - and I know it was quite popular in that era, although it became scarcer once Britain stopped letting us import molasses from the islands.

As for other ingredients, I'll probably use what's in season, and what is common to the USA. Or maybe I'll go Tiki - an American phenomenon, after all. Or maybe back to cocktails from the 1770's, or with an American whiskey drink? Next week I'll report with some recipes for 4th of July.

In the meantime, anyone have any suggestions or ideas of what you'll be drinking on the 4th of July? Please share - as long as it doesn't call for tequila or imported vodka.

Blogging Tales of the Cocktail

2009-06-17T11:56:00.003-05:00

I'm participating in the group blog for all things Tales of the Cocktail again this year, and my first post, about Mixologists and their Toys, is up on the blog. Be sure to keep an eye on the group blog for the lowdown on this year's festivities!

And for anyone who doesn't know, Tales is happening in New Orleans from July 8 - 12, and all the cool cocktail aficionados are going to be there. Won't you join us?

Note: photo is from New York Times

New Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails

2009-06-16T15:51:00.004-05:00

I got a very exciting email yesterday from none other than Dr. Cocktail himself, Ted Haigh. His 2004 book, Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails, was one of my primary inspirations for getting into cocktails and a frequent reference source for me. I've made almost every drink in that book, and have recommended it to many people.

Unfortunately, it's been out of print for awhile now, and copies were going for a pretty penny on eBay and Amazon. Well guess what? An updated version is coming out on July 1st! And Dr. C was kind enough to include some notes about a bunch of us cocktail bloggers in the new edition, so yours truly will be mentioned in the book. This is much cooler than being immortalized in a hypothetical in a law school textbook, which is my only other known appearance in a book.

I haven't seen it yet, but I would highly recommend checking it out - I will be! You can pre-order it on Amazon here: htt p://www.amazon.com/Vintage-Spirits-Forgotten-Cocktails-Alamagoozlum/dp/1592535615/ or ask for it at your favorite book store in a couple of weeks.

Perhaps I'll have to make an Alamagoozlum Cocktail tonight after dinner...