Destination Asia

Destination ASIA Has Moved to a New Address

2010-01-15T17:29:00.000-08:00

Pardon the long hiatus. I have been busy with work and I have been working on a new layout for Destination ASIA. I realized that I am definitely not a techy-person. A number of people have been requesting me to continue the blog and for that I am flattered. So here's the new address www.rafignacio.com. Enjoy!

www.rafignacio.com

CHINA: Wandering the Streets of Shanghai

2009-12-03T20:39:00.000-08:00

SHANGHAI, CHINA

Wandering the streets of Shanghai was our introduction to China and, my, what an introduction it was. What stood out the most was how quickly Shanghai was progressing. The city kept growing vertically with buildings soaring to kiss the sky. The public transport system was efficient, on-time and well-placed -- one can reach almost any part of the city by just the subway system. The people, I reckon, found coping with the rapid development a bit challenging. I remember seeing this woman in her 40s hitting the subway turnstile with her umbrella because it wouldn't let her pass. She didn't know that she had to use her subway ticket on the machine! The Chinese in China are totally different from the Chinese here in Manila or in any part of Asia for that matter. They cut in line, shove you off your place, and spit on the marble floor (even inside the subway)! And, boy, do they love to make that throaty gurgling sound before spitting, like cocking a shotgun before firing a full load, or what? The longer and the louder, the better. Most of the Chinese we met were grouchy and unfriendly but I guess it's because of their poor English skills or because they're so used to foreigners already.

Don't even think about it!

The Chinese were suspicious of foreigners especially over internet access. Internet cafes would ask for our passports whenever we wanted to go online. An Ecuadorian friend of ours sent an email to her family in Spanish. In the letter, she ranted about how much she disliked China because of the mean people and the strict authoritarian rules. Her family didn't receive the email at all and my friend's email was blocked from access until she left China. I have heard rumors that their government censors email exchanges by hiring people who can understand different languages to report malicious emails. With all this hoopla about Google succumbing to China's demands regarding censorship, I wouldn't be surprised if this were true.

I was floored! It even used the same font!

Made in China?

They sell soya bean milk and pancakes!

It's based in Singapore.

The sellers in Shanghai are one of the most hardcore salesmen I've seen in all my life, seriously. We went inside a bazaar and, upon seeing that we were tourists, an army of Chinese shopkeepers rushed to us. They carried a menu of their products -- counterfeit Gucci shoes, LV bags and dubious Rolex watches -- and pulled each of us by the arm towards their shop. Little did they know that we were poorer than rats! One time, our Mexican friend named Pollo (/Po-yo/) disappeared in the thick crowd. We had a train to catch so we desperately looked for him by shouting, "Pollo! Pollo! Where are you Pollo?" The shopkeepers heard us and immediately answered in broken English with a thick Chinese accent, "Pollo? Pollo? You want Pollo? I have Pollo in shop! Please come, no need buy Pollo! Just look my Pollo!"

Sample products from the bazaars

That's Pollo in the white jacket

When bargaining, some people follow this rule of thumb: Always bargain 50% off the initial offer then try to meet half-way or 75% of the original price. Jose from Ecuador, however, decided to deviate. He wanted to buy a pair of gloves and the first price offered was 100 yuan (about 14.50 USD). He refused and said, "Give it to me for two yuan (0.30 USD)!" After 20 minutes of bargaining and joking around with the young shopkeeper, what do you know, Jose got the pair for three yuan (0.45 USD). The shopkeeper was even happy about it. I guess it's no holds barred when it comes to bargaining, especially in China!

East Nanjing Road

No. 1 commercial street in China

Bye ship-themed hostel!

Off to Beijing!

CHINA: The Bund

2009-11-30T08:18:00.000-08:00

SHANGHAI, CHINA

Amidst the suffocating smog and the constant honking of motorcycles in its narrow streets, Shanghai stands proud and tall as China's largest city with over 20 million people and as the commercial and financial center of the Middle Kingdom. Shanghai conjured up images of New York City in my head -- the crowded streets, its cosmopolitan population, and its skyscrapers that made me realize how tiny I was. The city was perpetually busy and everyone seemed to be rushing to go from one place to the next. Most of the people I met were unfriendly and snobby which is probably why I didn't like Shanghai as much as Beijing, the next city we visited. Nevertheless, Shanghai is a lovely city -- busy and serious at daylight but hip and chic at night.

Busy Shanghai

Cock

Rice for cash?

Skyscrapers

Shoppin'

No, that's not a spaceship behind me.

(L-R: Raf, Jose, Ayyoub, Nathan)

To tourists, Shanghai is particularly known for The Bund, an area by the Huang Pu river that showcases a number of buildings of various architectural designs -- Baroque and Gothic, to name a few. The skyline at night reminded me of Tsim Shah Tsui in Hong Kong because of the bright lights juxtaposed with quaint buildings that reflected on the river. The temperature was about three degrees when we strolled The Bund that night. At this temperature, you have to wear at least a few layers of shirts, a jacket, a bonnet and a pair of gloves lest you lose your limbs to the cold. In spite of that, we had the smart idea to eat a McDonald's sundae cone for dessert. That was the only time I've seen ice cream stay frozen that long! We ate while watching the choreographed lights show from the gigantic building in front of us. Brrr!

Ice Cream!

Brain freeze galore!

Lights Show

More lights

What next?

Didn't see that coming!

Coolbeans

The spaceship-looking tower is called the Oriental Pearl Tower, completed in 1995. Attracting about three million tourists a year, this tower is actually a television tower with some observation decks at the top. A concert was also held here some time back. It looks like an alien mothership that could take off to space at any moment. Up close, it's candy-like colors and the beams of light from its base made the tower into a contemporary masterpiece on the night sky canvass.

Pudong Skyline

Walking around The Bund

Floating Restaurant

Like Tsim Shah Tsui

The base of the tower

3, 2, 1...Houston we have a problem.

The moon as its spotlight

Drinking a cocktail after a long day of sightseeing while hearing the hustle and bustle of people rushing home never felt as relaxing as the first night we spent in Shanghai. With the Pudong Skyline in view and the rest of China to discover, we raised our glasses for a toast. More stories about Shanghai in the next entry!

CHINA: Forty-Hour Ferry Ride

2009-11-28T05:06:00.000-08:00

SEA OF JAPAN (Between Japan and China)

My friends and I took a forty-hour ferry ride from Osaka, Japan to Shanghai, China. Since we had time to spare, we took the cheapest option available which was to cross the Sea of Japan by boat. Our group was composed of nine people - two Moroccans, three Americans, one Brazilian, one Filipino-American, one Ecuadorian and one Filipino. The ship, named CHINJIF, is actually a cargo ship that links Osaka-Shanghai, its only route. There were only about four private rooms and a common sleeping area for the passengers. I guess the shipbuilders realized they had extra space so they made cabins for low-budget passengers like us. We traveled during the peak of winter with temperatures dropping to as low as five degrees on a sunny day.

China group

Hanging out at the ship lounge

Jose from Ecuador outperforming the Chinese karaoke master

The food they served on-board was crappy. The spring roll was too oily, the dumplings were cold, the vegetables looked rotten and the porridge was thin and tasteless. I almost finished half of the soy sauce into my bowl. Well, we got what we paid for! But at least there was coffee.

With the boat constantly rocking from side to side, seasickness started to settle in our stomachs. A few hours into the trip, I felt my legs turn into jelly. I couldn't stand straight and my vision started to spin. Almost everyone had it save for Jose from Ecuador who apparently runs a fishing business back home. We felt our stomach constantly turning and vomit trying to break free from our throats. I spent the next 30 hours just lying down on the bed lest I make a regurgitated mess. A group of Chinese ladies suffered the same fate. Some couldn't keep it and just let go in the hallway. The corridor smelled sour.

Dying from seasickness

Cabin talk

How was the beef? It was OK.

Ship food. Not good.

It was chilly outside and the wind was so strong that it was it took all my strength to pry open the door to the main deck. After I let go, the thick metal door instantly slammed shut and banged the door frame. It was like a dynamite explosion that shook the whole boat. The night was terrifying to say the least, like a scene taken straight from Aravind Adiga's The White Tiger. In our room, there was a small window from where we saw the bluish sky which glowed with moonlight and starlight. Midnight struck and the gleam of the sky suddenly whithered into complete darkness. The ferry entered a thunder storm that roused the peaceful ocean into an angry mob of waves. Rain and sea water splashed on our cabin window. Every now and then, a flash of lightning would illuminate the sky. From the window, I saw the horizon wobble from one side to the other with each flash of light. I heard the metal cargo containers slide and hit the walls as the ferry danced with the storm and winds. I grabbed on to the bedpost, closed me eyes and forced myself to sleep. Thirteen hours left before Shanghai.

The following day. Is that land I see?

Heaven's Gates are opening

Shanghai Bay

The Space Needle

We made it!

It had been a grueling forty-hour ride but the sight of Shanghai Bay and the Oriental Pearl Tower made it all worth it. From afar, we saw the thick gray smog that covered Shanghai. Smoke-belching cars and a million motorcycles greeted us as we stepped foot on China. Almost everyone had sea legs -- this makes you feel like your feet aren't actually touching a flat floor but a rounded surface. Just when we thought we've had enough of ferries, the hostel we ended up in was ship-themed! With bunk beds, sailors' uniforms and lifesavers as decorations to match!

Ah, China, at last! And the journey is just about to begin!

Due to popular demand, I will start to include a more "practical" section to each entry. In this new section, I'll include the cost of living in each place and the route I took. More details will be posted as soon as I find them!

For the China trip, the route was:

1. Ferry from Osaka Port to Shanghai (40 hours)

2. Shanghai (two days) then train to Beijing

3. Beijing for (four days) then train to Xian

4. Xian (three days) then train back to Shanghai

5. Shanghai (one day) then ferry back to Osaka

THAILAND: Under the Bodhi Tree

2009-11-23T06:06:00.000-08:00

PHUKET and BANGKOK, THAILAND

Have you noticed that there are so many types of Buddhas all over Asia? I've seen fat and jolly Buddhas in China, thin and semi-serious Buddhas in Thailand, and meditating (in the lotus position) Buddhas in India. I found out that there are three main types of Buddhism -- Mahayana (China, Korea, Japan), Theravada (Sri Lanka, Laos, Cambodia) and Tibetan (Tibet, obviously). Yet, despite the different "sects", all of them believe in Buddha as the teachers, the Four Noble Truths, the Eight Fold Path and Nirvana. There's also a kind of Buddhism that is blended with some Hindu beliefs. I have two Thai Buddhist friends who can't eat beef because the mother of the Hindu god they worship is a cow. I wonder which category of Buddhism that falls into!

Buddha

Long earlobes

Fingers like candle sticks

Gallery of Buddhas in a temple in Phuket

Shiny

Praying

I visited Wat Pho (Wat means "temple" in Thai) in Bangkok which is famous for having the most number of Buddha images and the largest reclining Buddha in the whole of Thailand. The reclining Buddha was huge and its presence was intimidating. The Buddha's eyes were slightly shut but his pupils still peered through his eyelids. As I walked under the Buddha, I felt as if his eyes were following me like how the moon does when you walk on the streets at night. On one side of the hall were small steel pots. Visitors can get some coins at the entrance in exchange for a small donation for the temple. They drop one coin in each pot all the way until the end to get a wish from Buddha.

You can't see me!

Funky Hair

Omniscient

Pattern on the walls

Here's another one

Buddha and I

Start dropping the coins here

Another Thai Buddhist ritual is placing golden leaves on the Buddha. This is considered as a sign of respect and a means to receive merit for requests from Buddha. This gold leaf is actually made out of real gold pounded to a sheet 0.000005 inches thin. When you enter a temple, the caretaker will give you a small square sheet of gold together with some incense and, sometimes, a lotus flower as well. You peel the gold off the sheet and stick in on any part of the icon.

See the healthy Buddha in the background?

Four-cornered jewelry

This entry barely scratched the surface of Buddhism in Thailand. And Buddhism is just one of the many religions in Asia! Undoubtedly, the different beliefs, icons, images, and teachings brewing in the melting pot that is Asia make the experience of traveling a whole lot richer.

THAILAND: Fishing and Island Hopping

2009-11-21T02:26:00.000-08:00

PHUKET, THAILAND

My friend Mon took me fishing with his family when I visited Phuket. His father is a fishing aficionado and so was the rest of the family. We rode their fishing yacht from Ao Chalong (Ao means "bay" in Thai) and spent the morning trying our luck at catching our dinner for that evening. Finding where the fish were was easier than I thought. With just a push of a button, their on-board sonar device that detected how many fish were under the yacht. However, catching the fish was quite a challenge, not to mention a test of patience and timing. Our fishing rods had about 10 hooks so that should have evened out the odds.

Fishing, we go!

Mon

The deck

Enjoying the morning sun

Reeling in

Caught any?

It's not the quantity but the quality

For lunch, we docked at Coral Beach where Mon's family owns a restaurant by the coast. While waiting for lunch to be served, we went snorkeling in the nearby coral reef. The island was totally deserted except for the restaurant staff -- a welcome retreat from all the tacky tourists in Patong Beach. It was as if the whole island was reserved just for us. The view was absolutely picturesque. After eating, we spent the rest of the day just lazing around on the beach. The breeze was gentle and the waves were hushed. With a cold watermelon shake in one hand and sand in between my toes, I was all set to enjoy some peace and quiet.

Fetching us from the yacht

Waiting for the boatman to come back

Chill

It's all ours!

Winding down

We left Coral Beach at dusk. The ride back was shorter than it seemed and the waves were not as roused as they were in the morning. We brought the day's harvest to Mon's other restaurant, Kan Eang @ Pier which was right beside Chalong Bay. This has got to be my most favorite restaurants in Southeast Asia. Not only are their Thai dishes fantastic, but the ambiance -- the view of the calm bay, the fresh air, the austere furniture, the customer service fit for a king -- was absolutely wonderful. At night, they have live jazz music to soothe the soul while sipping a mojito. This place is perfect for a date. The chefs of Kan Eang (which means "at ease" in Thai) prepared half-cooked sashimi out of the fish we caught that day.

It's time to go

Retake

Ao Chalong

The dock

Dinner

THAILAND: Promthep Cape

2009-11-17T07:04:00.000-08:00

PHUKET, THAILAND

Promthep Cape is a small rocky hill in the southern tip of Phuket Island. The locals say that this is the perfect sunset viewpoint in Phuket. I went here with my good friend Mon who is a well-established local and future business tycoon in Thailand. Whenever Mon has guests, he brings them to Promthem Cape to enjoy the relaxing ambiance of the setting sun before having dinner at his place.

Mon trying out his new cam

A small shrine on top of the hill

Tourists from all over

The sun in Promthep Cape is notoriously known for causing sun burns but on the day we went, the sun was mellow and weak. The clouds were thick but, fortunately, there was no rain. In spite of that, I still got to take some lovely photos, thank god. There were couples seated on the ledge of the viewing area at the highest point of the hill. They all seemed lost in each other's presence, making the most of their quality time after a hard day of work. It was obvious, though, that people go there only for the sunset. Everyone seemed to disappear with the sun.

That's where I want to go next...

Take me away!

I'll stop the world and melt with you.

Promthep Cape

THAILAND: The Grand Palace

2009-11-15T07:26:00.000-08:00

BANGKOK, THAILAND

Bangkok has always amazed me for its similarity in appearance with Manila -- the deluge of Japanese cars, huge shopping malls, a "noodle-bowl" of flyovers, rice-based meals, even the kinds of trees we have look similar -- yet, despite looking alike, Krung Thep (Bangkok's Thai name) carries such a strong and unique Asian charm that it has become the most popular jump-off point in the Southeast Asian backpacker circuit.

EDSA?

Local street food shack

Tomyam Rice

Ma Bun Krong mall

(an affordable shopping option)

Inside Siam Paragon

(high-end shopping center)

Siam Paragon food court

Quite appropriately, on my way to the Grand Palace, a policeman stopped me from crossing the street because the car entourage of the royal princess was about to speed by. I said I'll just use the overpass instead but he said that Thais give tremendous importance to one's head. It's considered an insult to whack or to even just touch it. One's feet should never be over another person's head because it's a sign of utmost disrespect. So to walk on the overpass while the princess was passing under it is tantamount to putting my feet over her head. Of course, I wouldn't like that. What a coincidence it was, "meeting" the princess! Because the Grand Palace used to be the residence of the Thai royal family!

The royal princess' car

Outside the Grand Palace gate, I met a friendly tour guide who informed me that the Palace was closed for day because the King was entertaining a royal guest. He suggested that I take a tuk-tuk to this other temple, visit a Thai art exhibit and then make my way to Khaosan Road. I pulled out my map, he scribbled his directions, encircled the landmarks and he even wrote down his name. At the snap of his finger, a tuk-tuk arrived right in front of us. Grateful, I bid him goodbye and left. I went to the temple he suggested but it was small and almost empty. There was a dubious-looking monk inside who taught me how to put golden paper leaves on the Buddha -- a temple ritual. The Thai art exhibit was dark, dusty and the sales ladies were such hard-sells. I felt harassed into buying but I kept my cool and politely declined. When I arrived at my hostel that night, I asked the receptionist who the visitor of the King was. He replied, "The King didn't have any guests. And besides, he doesn't live in the Grand Palace."

The following day, again outside the Grand Palace at the exact same spot, I met the friendly tour guide again. I greeted him, "Hey! The King didn't have any visitors yesterday. What were you talking about?"

"I'm sorry, I don't think we've met," he replied with a certain discomfort.

"We met yesterday. You even wrote on my map!" I pointed at his name on my map.

"I'm sorry, I don't know you. Please leave me alone," and he immediately left.

Apparently, it's a common modus operandi for "friendly tour guides" to mislead innocent tourists into visiting "exhibits" for a commission from the exhibitors. Everyone was an accomplice. The tuk-tuk driver received gas vouchers from the exhibitors for taking me there. The "tour guide" received a small amount from the tuk-tuk driver for making me ride his tuk-tuk. I got punked. Oh well.

I continued on with my plans anyway -- the Grand Palace.

In the Grand Palace Grounds

Around the Palace

Palace Guards

Halt!

Thai Architecture FTW

It was scorching hot that day

Mirrors and Gold

Cooling down with the Palace monks

Inside the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaew -- considered to be the most sacred Buddhist temple in Thailand. Rightly so, this temple houses the Emerald Buddha which is disputed by the Laotians, the Cambodians and the Thais. Each claims that they should keep the Emerald Buddha in their homeland because it was stolen from them. Wars were waged for the possession of this icon. Until today, this is a sensitive issue for the three. When I went inside the main hall where the icon was displayed, I was greeted by men and women of all ages peacefully chanting while seated on the cold marble floor. To show respect, visitors are required to dress conservatively and to remove their shoes. Everyone had to sit in such a way that their soles were not facing the Buddha.

Confronted with a totally foreign experience, I tend to quickly draw my camera to capture it in digital form. But sitting in front of this historic green statue, hearing the rhythmic chanting of Thai prayers and witnessing the possessed expressions of the worshipers, I knew that taking a snapshot would only ruin the encounter. Instead, I kept my camera inside my bag and just relished the moment.

Wat Phra Kaew

Emerald Buddha

A Closer Look

Demons guard the Palace Gates

Giants

Around the Grand Palace

Decorated gate

Monks

THAILAND: Phi Phi Island

2009-11-12T07:50:00.000-08:00

Trust me, it's paradise. This is where the hungry come to feed. For mine is a generation that circles the globe and searches for something we haven't tried before. So never refuse an invitation, never resist the unfamiliar, never fail to be polite and never outstay the welcome. Just keep your mind open and suck in the experience. And if it hurts, you know what? It's probably worth it.

-Richard, The Beach (2000)

Close to Phuket Island (Ko Phuket) in Thailand is the beautiful, almost unreal, Phi Phi Island (Ko Phi Phi). It became famous for being the fantasy-like beach in The Beach, a film that will surely catch the fancy of travelers and adventure-seekers. From Patong Beach in Phuket, I took a short mini-bus ride to the port and rode a speed boat to Phi Phi. It was a bumpy ride so I was glad our tour guide gave us anti-seasickness pills beforehand. Nonetheless, the sight of the blue sea and the green islands from the speedboat was a treat in itself. The scorching sun made the water glisten as we were speeding by.

At the waiting area for the speed boat

Boat men sitting on the motor

And we're off!

Turn left at the second island

Waterworld

As part of the tour, we went to several islands. The first stop was Maya Bay of Ko Phi Phi Leh, otherwise known as The Beach. It was crowded with tourists, mainly Westerners, trying to escape the bitter bite of winter in their part of the world. As expected, the throngs of vacationers disenchanted The Beach of its mystique and intrigue as shown in the movie. I doubt, though, if the island is ever totally empty -- its popularity is both its bane and boon. Fortunately, despite the crowds, I was still managed to snatch some post-worthy photos of the lovely coastline.

Parking Lot

Mountainside

By the shore

Phi Phi

Crowded

Packed

Our tour group snorkeled and fed the fish bread before heading off to the following island. Sadly, the corrals were drab and almost lifeless probably because of unregulated tourist activity and lack of environmental protection measures -- quite precarious for a region that depends greatly on the tourism industry for its income. Up next was was Ko Phi Phi Don where we stopped by to chill under the colorful umbrellas set up by the locals. From above ground, the island is wide on one end then it becomes extremely thin in the middle before it gets wide again towards the end. This was briefly shown in the movie. Our boat stopped at the thin portion of the island. It was a welcome respite from the heat of the sun and perfect time to enjoy fresh coconut juice. It takes only five minutes to cross to the opposite beach of this small island.

Chill Spot

Less crowded than Maya Bay

The opposite beach

Coconut-nut

The whole Phi Phi Island tour lasted until about 4PM. I have finally ticked another destination on my "Places to See" list. Admittedly, if it weren't for the movie that made Phi Phi famous, I don't think I would have found myself there. Nonetheless, Ko Phi Phi definitely deserves a visit especially for nature-lovers out there.

INDONESIA: Temple Hopping

2009-11-07T11:27:00.000-08:00

If Cambodia has Angkor Wat, Malaysia has the Petronas Towers and Thailand has the Grand Palace, then Indonesia has Borobudur and Prambanan - the two main tourist attractions and UNESCO World Heritage sites in the Yogyakarta region. Kurt and I spent a day for each temple for a leisurely pace but it's also possible to do both in one day. We first went to Prambanan, the largest Hindu temple in Indonesia. The towering temples reminded me of the Hindu temples in India which were laden with finely crafted images of Hindu gods. The details and intricacy of each sculpture was superbly done.

Prambanan

One of the towering temples

Notice the small images on the walls

The devil is in the details

The god is wearing a bindi

(forehead decoration)

Around the compound

A view of the top

Right before closing time

The following day we went to the famous Borobudur which is located between twin volcanoes and two rivers. Whereas Prambanan is Hindu, Borobudur is a Buddhist temple and also a popular pilgrimage site for Buddhists. This temple houses 504 Buddha statues and about 2,500 images of Buddhist teachings such as karma and suffering to name a few. It was a treat to walk around the temple, sit on the uneven temple blocks and admire the surrounding mountains and greenery curtained by a mysterious fog. Certain parts of the temple are damaged so let your imagination conjure up the grandeur of Borobudur. This will enrich the experience ten-fold.

Borobudur

Stupa-fied

Stupa

Also famous to the locals

Making offerings

Gargoyle head is a water drain

Head was stolen and brought to Western museums

Stupas and headless Buddhas

Ohm

Prambanan and Borobudur are testaments to the presence of Hinduism and Buddhism in ancient Indonesia (Java Island). Later on, there was a Indonesian (Javanese) conversion to Islam which was brought by the maritime traders of the time. These two temples are perfect day trips while in Yogya especially for the culture-vultures and history buffs. Prepare for an impromptu photo session while you're there, the locals get a kick out of posing with foreigners.

INDONESIA: Strolling Yogya

2009-11-04T06:20:00.000-08:00

Yogyakarta (derived from Dutch, pronounced as Jogjakarta; "Y" is pronounced as a "J") is small artistic town more popularly known for the nearby Borobudur, an ancient Buddhist temple and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Unknown to many, this town has more to offer than old temples. The city of Yogyakarta is simple yet artistic, busy yet full-of-heart. The main avenue is littered with shops that sell hand-made batik printed shirts in all hues and patterns -- quite an eye-candy for the color-hungry. Though the streets were filled with cars, there weren't any traffic jams or devil-drivers to complain about. At night, acoustic bands, complete with make-shift percussion instruments, play on the streets to serenade lovers walking hand in hand or families eating in the sidewalk restaurants. Later into the night, their songs turn into lullabies that cradle the city to sleep.

The main avenue

Malioboro Street

Your shirt is my canvass!

This is just wrong!

Catching the last bus

Another treat that Yogya had to offer was an organized bus transportation system complete with time schedule for the day. This is a rarity in Southeast Asia; usually it's just "hop-on / hop-off" when the bus comes. This made going to the nearby sights a breeze. Some say that by 2016, the small town of Yogya will have its own monorail and aerobus. Take that, Southeast Asia!

Buses come every 5-minutes (Can you believe it?)

A bus schedule, God's gift to mankind

Bintang Bar is small and cozy beer shack on Sosrowijayan Street - a street popular for backpacker-friendly hostels. Bintang Bar regularly features indie bands of different genres each night -- a tell-tale sign how the arts thrive in this city -- to play music and promote their albums. On the night we went, a ska band called The Brown Sugar gave a fantastic performance. They are extremely popular with the locals. About 30 minutes before their first set started, the house was already jam-packed. Though nights usually end early (12MN), the people still lingered to chit-chat with the band and continue drinking by the convenience store right across the street. I congratulated them after their set and the vocalist gave me a free copy of their album to share with my friends.

The Brown Sugar

Star of the night

For all its simplicity and artsy-ness, Yogyakarta has become my favorite city in all of Southeast Asia. If you're into traditional Indonesian paintings, contemporary visual art and indie music, then Yogya is definitely worth a visit. If you're into history and culture, Prambanan and Borobudur are just around the corner so Yogya would be a convenient place to stay.

INDONESIA: Sanur Beach and Ulu Watu Temple

2009-11-03T07:21:00.000-08:00

After a hard night in Kuta Beach, we set off for Sanur Beach, a few kilometers to the east Kuta. Sanur Beach is a quiet and calm beach town, an apt contrast to the riot of a night we just had. There, time felt like it passed slower than usual. The sound of the waves was soothing. "If you go to a beach and listen to your iPod, then you're missing the point." -- this quote made much more sense after spending an afternoon in Sanur Beach.

Off to Sanur

Blue is the color of the sky

Afternoon companions

For the rough day ahead

The following day, we went to Ulu Watu, a Hindu temple complex by a cliff down in South Bali. They made us wear funny-colored costumes before we entered as a sign of respect. Knees are supposed to be covered. Walking around inside didn't feel like being in a temple at all. The actual temples were separated by wide gardens. If it wasn't for the heat, the whole complex would have made for a relaxing stroll in a dainty park-by-a-cliff. The view of the ocean was spectacular to say the least.

Ulu Watu

By the cliff

Temple Ruins (Photo by Kurt)

The view below

Blue-green (Photo by Kurt)

Vastness

The monkeys playing in the temple served as clowns for entertainment with their adorable antics on trees and in their swimming pool. But they were also pickpockets who'd steal your camera, hat, or in my case, key chains if you're careless.

Porn (He's chewing on my key chain.)

MTV Cribs (Primate Version)

Both Sanur Beach and Ulu Watu are good choices for a laid-back, easygoing plan to spend a day in Bali. I'd recommend these two as a "chaser" to a night of clubbing, perfect for some moments of quiet before heading off to the next destination.

INDONESIA: Clubbing in Kuta Beach, Bali Island

2009-11-02T09:22:00.000-08:00

Kurt and I arrived in Kuta Beach, Bali Island after a 12-hour bus ride from Probolinggo, the jump-off point for Mount Bromo. We spent a good part of our night searching for a reasonably-priced hostel; it wasn't peak season but the whole beach was packed. The following day, we took our time and just relaxed on the beach. Just to keep you in the know, though Indonesia is predominantly Muslim, Bali Island is predominantly Hindu. It is also the largest tourist destination in the country.

At a local eatery

The narrow streets of Kuta Beach

The view from our hotel window

Afternoon beer on Kuta Beach

Kuta Beach was dirty. I don't think I'm alone in saying this because all the other backpackers I met before and after going to Kuta said the same thing. I didn't feel welcome to take a dip because I'd be swimming with plastic bags and beer bottles. I was surprised that some surfers still took the plunge despite the filth. The waves were perfect for beginners, perhaps that's why.

Stoked

Kuta Beach

Kuta is the most touristy beach in Bali. Here you won't have trouble exchanging money or eating Western food, which could be a welcome respite after eating too much satay or nasi goreng. The clubbing is scene in Kuta is also the liveliest in all of Bali. Probably, though, not exactly the island's strongest asset. Clubs are usually filled with thirsty Australians (because they're nearby) and Dutch (because of historical links).

Night life in Kuta

Bounty Bar

The night would not have been complete without Bintang Beer, the "national" beer of Indonesia. The maker is a subsidiary of Heineken, a Dutch beer. (Makes me wonder, was San Miguel a subsidiary of a Spanish beer?) It tastes pretty much like water so before you know it, you've already had one too many. Each big bottle went for about 2 USD inside the club. Thanks to Bintang Beer, we met some "characters" in Bountry Bar. Let me introduce you to some of them.

Definitely High
(She robot-danced the whole night.)

BINTANG!

Best dressed

(He had this wicked piercing through his nose)

The Asian Tupac

Initially a girl was dancing inside this neon cage. The people around her egged her to dance more. This random Australian (I think) guy sneaks inside the cage and dry humped the girl from behind. She didn't notice it at the beginning but when she did, she played along! The crowd cheered louder and they just kept going at each other.

RELAX, PEOPLE!

Wow

Boom boom pow

That's a taste of what clubbing in Kuta Beach is. Bounty Bar was definitely one of the more popular clubs in Kuta. Most of the people we randomly met on the streets ended up there even though they had other plans at the beginning. Don't be surprised to see prostitutes offering you innocent smiles. After four bottles of Bintang, one is sure to be in Happy Land. It was pretty good for a first night in Bali. Good times!

INDONESIA: Mount Bromo (Gunung Bromo)

2009-11-02T03:47:00.000-08:00

This marks the beginning the Indonesia travel series which will be featured in the next few entries. The Indonesia trip is divided into three legs and Mount Bromo is the first leg and first installment. The next two will feature Bali and Jogjakarta. For more details on the route and costs, check below.

Kurt, my friend from Switzerland, and I went back packing in East Java, Indonesia. Our plane landed in Solo and from there we took a grueling 12-hour bus ride to Probolinggo, the jump-off point to Gunung Bromo. By this time, we were tired, sleepless and hungry. Our facial expressions started to look like a crumpled piece of paper.

In the bus to Surabaya

Kurt

Yours Truly

Night fell. We met a smooth-talking travel agent in Probolinggo. He did his usual sales talk, pulled out maps, showed us photos of white people smiling on a trek up the mountain, the works. Noticing that we were desperate for a clean bed and warm shower, he talked us into paying the fees up front by offering a big discount. We had no Indonesian rupiah left. With a grin on his face, he bid us goodbye and led us to the mini-bus that will take us up. Perfect.

Boycott this travel agency

We arrived the hotel close to midnight already. The plan was set. First, check-in and exchange money. Second, grab something to eat, take a warm shower and rest before the 3AM trek. As always, things did not fall into plan. We went in the hotel lobby to check-in when the receptionist said in a hard Indonesian accent, "Soreh sir, no rum! (Sorry sir, no room!)" Kurt and I exchanged amused looks and said, "Yeah, funny joke, man. We'd like to check in." The receptionist repeated, "No room," and showed us the rack where all the rooms keys were placed. It was empty. "Maybe you can try the other hotels," he continued.

Three-layers of clothes on

(Photo by Kurt)

Perfect weather for Swiss Kurt

We looked outside the hotel window only to see a small mountain town blanketed in darkness. We stepped outside to find a place to stay but to no avail. All the hotels were fully booked. The hotels didn't allow backpackers to sleep in the lobby. The temperature was ten degrees and smoke started to come out of our mouths when we spoke. We wanted to exchange money to buy at least a hot drink to thaw our frozen limbs and spirits but the only the man who would buy our USD offered us 50% of the actual exchange rate. Holding tightly on our principles, we refused his offer even if meant going hungry for the next 12 hours. The locals said the temperature will dip to zero degrees by 3AM. The cold bites harder when you have an empty stomach.

(No photos at this point. Too annoyed and hungry.)

Aimlessly wandering, I suddenly stopped and stood in front of a house with some Indonesian students inside. I caught myself staring at the bowl of warm soup each had in their hands. Their couch looked so soft and inviting., almost seductive. Out of pity, I presume, one of the students invited Kurt and I to come inside. They offered us a bowl of soup. With broken bahasa Indonesia, I explained that we had no room to stay and they offered us their couch for the rest of the night. We eventually broke the ice and played cards.

Indonesians are warm people

(Never found out their names.)

We woke up by 3AM to start our morning trek to Mount Penanjakan, the sunrise viewing point. A small jeep brought us close to the top then we continued by foot. There were about 200 people already there at such an early hour! Everyone was clad in thick clothes and a camera in hand to document the slow rise of that yellow ball of warmth. At one point, there were even fireworks for the tourists.

Our Gay Jeep

There were about 200 people waiting

Do you think he's a robber?

Sunrise

Sunrise from Bromo

When the sun completely rose, I was surprised to see Mount Bromo in its full glory. I didn't realize how high above ground we were. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking. It seemed like looking at one huge front-cover photo from National Geographic crossed over my image of Jurassic Park. Where are the dinosaurs?

Welcome to Jurassic Park

Spot the T-Rex!

From the mountain top, we took the same jeep and headed down to the plain by the foot of the volcano. Here you can take the easy way up Mount Bromo by mule or horse. Or you can do it by foot. This will take about 1.5 hours, two-way. This was extremely tiring but as you go higher, the view from the volcano gets better. It's also quite an achievement to reach the mouth of the crater after a sleepless night, a dry throat and an empty stomach. At the top, the sulfur smelled like rotten eggs. It was suffocating so we quickly went down after taking a few photos.

At the base of Bromo

The Easy Way Up

Long walk before the volcano

This ain't a joke!

One step at a time

No turning back now!

Half-dead (Photo by Kurt)

Stinky Crater (Photo by Kurt)

View from Cemoro Lawan

The Mount Bromo trip is a perfect rest point in between a long haul trip from Bali to East Java. There's no need to stay longer than one day and night here. The volcano is the main attraction. The travel agencies offer an alternative trip which takes you on the other mountains surrounding Bromo. I think it's essentially the same though. At any rate, we went back to town and waited for the shuttle which took us to Denpasar, Bali.

------

TRIP DETAILS:

Date: March 8-15, 2009
Main stops: Gunung Bromo, Bali and Jogjakarta (Indonesia)

The Route:

Kuala Lumpur to Solo by plane, 2 hours

Solo to Surabaya by bus, 8 hours

Surabaya to Probolinggo by bus, 4 hours

Probolinggo to Denpasar, Bali by bus, 11 hours

Denpasar to Jogjakarta by plane, 1 hour

Jogjakarta to Solo by bus, 2 hours

INDIA: Stray Cows and a Monkey in Transit

2009-10-28T07:37:00.000-07:00

In the Philippines, we have lots of stray dogs. In India, they have stray cows.

You will literally see cows scattered all over the road. Some are just sitting under the shade, cooling off from the searing heat. Others are at the garbage heap searching for lunch. Generally these bovine gods are slow and dormant, but occasionally they can get violent. A French backpacker I met got rammed by those mighty horns while crossing a narrow street. The cows freely roam anywhere and it made me wonder if anyone owned them.

Main intersection in Udaipur

Illegal Parking

Bakery?

Dung Cakes

(a.k.a. Pastries)

Love me or leave me!

According to one Indian I asked, cows are on the streets because their owners have abandoned them. The cows are taken cared of as pets because of their divine stature in Indian society. However, when the cow stops producing milk, the owner ditches them to fend for themselves. Another Indian said that these allegedly stray cows do have owners. The cows spend the day grazing with their "friends" and then come home for supper. Come to think of, yeah, I never saw a cow walking around at night.

In other news in the animal kingdom, I thought I was dreaming when I saw a full-grown monkey riding behind a bicycle. Apparently, the campus dorm I was staying in was surrounded by small monkeys. To keep the primates away, the school officials "hired" an alpha male monkey to guard the dormitory. He's tied to a huge tree in the dorm lawn and has kept the hall monkey-free. I guess he's having a day off?

Tightrope?

"My tail is itchy." -Monkey

Cool kids sit at the back of the bike

CAUTION: Monkey Crossing

Graveyard Shift

INDIA: Monuments

2009-10-28T03:48:00.000-07:00

Today, let me take you to two monuments in New Delhi. The first is called Qutb Minar, a minaret (tower) that showcases Indo-Islamic architecture. Around this tower is a small dainty park where families go for a picnic or an afternoon stroll. There are also some old Hindu temples and ruins which made up the whole complex.

Lazy Sunday afternoon

Columns and ruins

Around the tower

Ruins

My guide told me that the tower gradually become thinner towards the top. The base is 14.3 meters wide while the top is 2.75 meters wide only. The tower is also divided into five levels and at each level the design changes. Notice how at one level the design is shaped like a cube while in another level the design is round. He said that, because of that design, if you look at the tower from above, it's actually shaped like a lotus flower, India's national flower.

See the shapes in each level?

Hand-carved designs

on the gate wall

Qutb Minar

In the complex, I entered one temple and saw an old lady crouched on the floor. Seeing that I was a lone traveler, she offered to take my photo for me inside that temple. Once I gave her my camera, she suddenly became bossy and strict. She ordered me to pose in front of an undecorated wall. Then she forcefully made me sit on top of a tomb-like stone block. I thanked her for her kindness and asked for my camera back but she stepped back and insisted she takes another photo of me and the stone block, but now from another angle. I forced a smile to conceal my irritation; she was wasting my time. Finally she gave my camera back, stretched her hand to ask for a small fee. Now that was totally subtle! Don't you just love unrequested service?

Take one!

The other angle
(Wow, it looks so different!)

The other monument is called the India Gate. It's one of my favorite spots in the madness of New Delhi. The monument is located in a huge park with wide gardens perfect for lounging around with friends or family. It's actually a war memorial and India's national monument. It was built for the Indian soldiers who fought for the British Army in WW 1. The name of the valiant heroes are inscribed on the walls of the gate.

Street scene before the monument

India Gate

Heroes' names inscribed on the wall

As the sun set, more and more people came. Families taking an evening stroll, lovers stealing a moment to hold hands before another day of work, and groups friends cracking foolish jokes on one another filled the park as night drew on. The gate was majestic and picturesque especially with the klieg lights beaming from below. It looked like a star had fallen from the heavens and landed in the middle of a park.

Silhouette

Beauty

It looks like the Arc de Triomphe on Champs Elysee, doesn't it? I've never been there though. The India Gate is lit up every night so make sure to visit when you're in town. To enter is totally free. There are hundreds of vendors that sell ice cream, Indian snacks and flying toys all over the place. The best time to go is during sunset so you can see the monument transform. Bring someone with you!

INDIA: Lunch Time

2009-10-27T13:48:00.000-07:00

During lunch hour, my officemates and I would walk down to good ol' Verma's Kitchen. It's the closest and cheapest food joint around India Habitat Center. Three USD for a meal for five people. Not bad at all! Our other officemates warned us that if we don't want stomach problems, we better stay away from Verma's. I never got sick from eating there though! The usual lunch cast is Shraman, Anubhab, Shekhar, Shatish (not in photo) and myself.

"With one Indian, it's contemplation...

With two Indians, it's argumentation...

With three Indians, it's a revolution!"

Right off the pan

Hardcore

Before

Spoils of war

After this particular lunch, the guys made me try sweet paan, an Indian breath freshener / after mint. It's made from betel leaves, betel nut, areca nut and other dubious substances like rose-syrup, rose leaves and some colorful spices of different shapes and sizes. They ordered three pieces; the mysterious sidewalk vendor took some leaves submerged in a pail of water. He carefully cut the discolored parts of the foliage and used a small brush to spread the ingredients stored in the tin cups onto the green wrapper. He looked as though he was preparing poison or some voodoo ritual!

What can I do for you?

Pick your poison!

A closer look

Still alive!

I look excited but I was actually scared of getting wild diarrhea. As expected, the paan tasted like herbal mint candy. While chewing on it, the rose-syrup leaked from the leaf and I felt like I was eating a valentine's gift I'd give my mom or girlfriend. It was refreshing to the mouth but when the menthol worked its way up to my nose I just had to spit it out. The flavor and aroma lingered for the next half-hour so it still felt like it was inside my mouth. No more paan for me! Ever!

INDIA: Train Stations

2009-10-27T13:00:00.000-07:00

When I was in India, the scenes from Slumdog Millionaire kept replaying in my head. Admittedly, Slumdog Millionaire subconsciously became my "guide" to present India. (The only other movie I've seen about India was Gandhi and that was set in the first half of the 20th century.) I understand why some Indians were upset that Slumdog Millionaire was such a celebrated movie when it portrayed a destitute and dangerous India to the whole world. It really gets to you; well, it did to me at least. More details in another entry.

On the flip side though, compared to what was shown in the movie, actual Indian train stations are worlds apart from what was shown on the silver screen. Remember the scene where Jamal looks for Latika and sees her gazing up from the platform? That scene was filled multi-colored saris and the atmosphere was pretty festive, I'd say. Remember the Bollywood-style dance sequence that was shot in a train station towards the end credits? Compare it to these photos of Old Delhi Railway Station.

Old Delhi Railway Station

Dots

Anubhab, my friend,

making a phone call by a book kiosk

Chance passengers

Train delayed

Tick-tock-tick-tock

Waiting it out

The line didn't move

Well, that's the reality. Amazingly, though, despite the apparent disorder, everyone still got on their trains and reached their destinations. Method in madness, the Indian way. The movie didn't prepare me for the train stations but, I must say, I was pleasantly surprised to see how it really is. Wild.

INDIA: Karim's Hotel

2009-10-26T22:57:00.000-07:00

A short tribute to my favorite restaurant in New Delhi. Karim's Hotel is located in downtown Delhi close to Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India.

Welcome!

They built several branches

in the same location due to popular demand

For one, I liked the location of the place. It's not exactly the most accessible spot in town but I think the journey getting there adds to the restaurant's charm. From the closest Metro station, you'd still need a short rickshaw trip or a 15-minute walk through thronged streets of the local market. To find the restaurant, you have to ask around for directions until the locals point you to a small dark alley-way.

Please Wait to be Seated

Bring it on!

Inside Karim's, the walls are sparsely decorated yet they bear the essentials. The interior doesn't look contrived or staged, unlike the tourist trap restaurants included in package tours; just plain, simple and honest. Well, there's no need for an elaborate display, I guess. The long history behind Karim's, for which the restaurant is famous for (and its food, of course) makes for a good story. In a nutshell, the techniques used in cooking their dishes were handed down from the family's ancestors who cooked for the Mughals. So, in a sense, you get to taste what the Mughals ate when you eat in Karim's.

Slow-cooking

I especially love the badam pasanda - a sumptuous combination of mutton and almond sauce. I like how this dish has fused the mutton taste with the almonds to come up with a flavor that will make you say, "Yeah, that hit the spot." Fulfilling. The badam pasanda blends perfectly with their plain naan which was soft yet chewy, a tad sweet and could be eaten by itself. I almost forgot; the shish kabab was a welcome appetizer. It whets your appetite for the main course with the richness of the herbs and spices used to marinade it.

Freshly tandoori-ed naan

The Real Mr. Kabab

Kababs

For 3-7 USD, Karim's packs a lot of value for your money and is definitely worth a visit while you're in town. Popular with foreigners and locals alike, Karim's will not disappoint your taste buds. Just make sure to order the right dishes. If unsure, ask the waiter! After eating, you can head off to nearby Jama Masjid and the Muslim market for shopping and people-watching.

INDIA: Public Display of Affection

2009-10-26T07:53:00.000-07:00

I was walking down Chawri Bazaar one day when I saw two youngsters holding hands while walking. Initially, I was surprised and I instinctively took photos of them. This wasn't the first time for me to see man-to-man action in India but this is the first that I was able to document it. See for yourself.

The Subjects

I tried to get closer

Wop, there's another one!

I think I was too obvious

Upon asking my Indian friends what that was all about, I learned that that's just really how some Indian boys show affection to their comrades. It's actually very rare to see boy-and-girl holding hands because of the relatively conservative social norms but boy-and-boy is acceptable. I have also seen grown up men (about 40 years old) holding hands and swaying them while walking. And, in a separate instance, I saw two men resting their whole arm over the other's shoulder while looking each other eye-to-eye. There's totally nothing homosexual in holding hands; that's just how they do it on that side of the world.

INDIA: The Streets of Kolkata

2009-10-26T06:14:00.000-07:00

My good friend Anubhab invited me to visit Kolkata, the capital of West Bengal and former capital of India. To begin with, I have never seen a city as crowded as Kolkata. Where did all those people come from? At the break of rush hour, you'd see thousands of Bengalis appear from every nook and cranny of the city. The sight was like a colony of ants scampering away from their anthill because of impending danger. It was choreographed chaos, a rehearsed madness.

At Howrah Station

Colors

The bridge to cross Hooghly River

(final portion of the Ganges River

before the Bay of Bengal)

Vintage Cabs

I particularly liked walking the busy streets and admiring the colonial buildings of its British past. It reminded me of the old buildings in Hong Kong which shares the same colonial experience. Though not exactly a stroll in the park because of humidity and traffic, meandering about in the streets of the fabled Kolkata has its unique appeal to the intrepid traveler. Ladies and gentlemen, the streets of Kolakata.

Day's almost over

Yellow Cab

Shinkansen?

The Goods

Not what you think it is

Taxi Driver

We met up with our officemate Souvik in College Street where the famous Indian Coffee House stands. Bustling with students, professors and other intellectuals, the ICH is known, not so much for its coffee, but for its visitors. The long list of famous personalities who were regular visitors include R. Tagore, Amartya Sen, and Subhas Chandra Bose. The ICH is also known for being the seedbed of the literary and cultural movements in the 1960s. A lot of people visit this place for "adda," long intellectual discussions on various topics such as politics, literature, current affairs or just about anything.

Rabindranath Tagore was a frequent visitor
(photo on wall)

Indian Coffee House

Rickshaw

(allegedly banned in Kolkata but they are still around)

Book store on College Street

INDIA: Taj Mahal

2009-10-26T02:48:00.000-07:00

"Like a solitary tear suspended on the cheek of time.”

-Rabindranath Tagore, on the Taj Mahal

I remember my Indian friend telling me that if her boyfriend would propose marriage to her, she would like him to say it in front of the Taj Mahal; the greatest monument of love, as she put it. I have heard a dearth of legends and myths about this monument-cum-mausoleum from friends and travel books. Legend has it that, devastated by his wife's death Shah Jahan's hair turned gray over night. He built the Taj Mahal to house the remains of his beloved. He did not want the architect to build anything as beautiful as the Taj Mahal so he ordered for the architect's hands to be chopped off.

On the train to Agra, 4 hours

(no AC = torture)

These stories subconsciously stoked my expectations and I was preparing myself for a letdown once I see it. Yet, in spite of the hype, I remember shivers running down through my spine as I saw the effervescent white glow of the marble monument peer through the arched gateway before it. It's one of those places that hold a palpable aura, like meeting the star of the show entitled Indian civilization.

The Taj Mahal

Chillin'

Spot Jamal from Slumdog Millionaire

Brimming with people in spite of the heat

It was extremely hot when I was there. The 47 degree temperature wore me out sooner that I expected. In spite of the heat, more and more people still came. I heard that if you visit the Taj at dawn you would see the monument change color and hues as the sun sets. That means spending the night in Agra though because the last train leaves at around 5PM. Nevertheless, walking around the Taj at the peak of heat was still enchanting to say the least.

Seeking refuge from the scorching sun

Mughal marble art

I also went to nearby Agra Fort which, with all due respect, was quite empty and boring. Diminishing marginal returns, I guess, since I have been to the Red Fort in New Delhi. After some time, forts seem to look the same (save for some in Rajasthan) and if you frequent them too much you'll soon be "fort-ed out." Agra Fort's saving grace though was the story of the traitor prince Akbar and Shah Jahan's prison cell. Akbar betrayed his father, Shah Jahan, in his lust for power and the throne. When Akbar ordered for his incarceration, Shah Jahan requested for a prison cell from which the Taj can be seen in full-view. He wanted this to keep his loving's wife memory alive with until his death.

Around Agra Fort

The throne, the prison cell and the Taj

Around Agra you will see a number of shops that sell Mughal-style marble carvings. I wouldn't advise you to buy there though because Agra is known for being a tourist trap (not to foreigners but even to the locals). Most probably the carving would be a fake, overpriced or both. The artisans at work outside their shops provide entertainment while you drink a bottle of cold water.

Artisan at work

The devil is in the details

The way back to New Delhi was quite an experience. I was a good 30-minutes early for my train. I patiently waited on the platform and I tried to amuse myself by people-watching. The platform was teeming with people as it was the last train to Delhi for the day. From afar, I saw the train chugging closer and closer. As if avoiding a tidal wave, the people rushed to the coach door as the train came to a complete stop. They forced themselves inside even though the train was already jam-packed. Trying to remain calm, I looked for my coach and, like the others, pushed as hard as I could to enter it. I waved my ticket, a reserved seat, to one of the standing passengers by the door and urged him to let me through. He looked at me with rabid eyes and spat insults and curses at my face. At this point, I thought that it's impossible to get on this train.

No vacancy

The train was like a can of sardines. Seats that were meant for three people had six people seated on them. Passengers were standing in the aisles and it made the heat inside unbearable. No wonder some people have died from suffocation while riding Indian trains. As the train left, the people inside cheered like barbarians, rejoicing over the sight of other passengers being left behind.

Some persevered while others lost hope

Indignant

Luckily, I met a group of Thai tourists and we managed to hire a taxi to take us back. The sinister taxi man fleeced each one of us 16 USD for the ride. It was a total rip-off. It took us ten hours to get back while it was only supposed to be four hours. The driver bluffed and said that there was a big festival so it was better to stop first and wait for the roads to ease up. Little did we know, he just wanted to sleep! After the intersection a few hundred meters from where we stopped, the road was virtually empty!

Did they miss the train too?

Sleeping Beauty

INDIA: Shopping at Dilli Haat

2009-10-24T18:40:00.000-07:00

Shopping in India can sometimes be a hassle especially for foreigners. A typical shopping experience would include being badgered by a number of auto-rickshaw drivers and over-friendly shop owners. Everyone's just trying to make a living and that's the way they do it in India. However, if you're in the mood for a more relaxed shopping stroll, head off to Dilli Haat (Opposite INA Market in New Delhi). My friend, Preeti, and I went there after work for shopping and dinner.

Preeti, my friend

Dilli Haat is a food and shopping plaza that sells mainly arts and crafts from all the states of India. There is a small entrance fee but think of it as "paying for convenience." Inside, the sellers are not as hard-sell as the ones outside. The shops change every two weeks but the whole bazaar is a staple The slots are raffled off to artisans so that each would have a chance to sell in this coveted area.

The prices of goods are definitely more expensive than buying them in the local markets. However, the quality is better and you get to converse with the artist who made the artwork. I bargained for a Madhubani painting for 50% less than the initial offer. Dilli Haat is replete with paintings, crafts, curios, garments and wooden sculptures making it an apt "sample platter" of Indian art.

After shopping, we went to the food complex for a Rajasthani Thali (set plate). But there was a myriad of cuisines to choose from - Punjabi, Bihari, Bengali cuisine, etc. We ate in Paamna Restaurant which had friendly waiters whom I took a photo with. Definitely spicier than the north Indian dishes I have tasted, the Rajasthani thali was superb and authentic (as I soon found out when I backpacked through Rajasthan). On another occasion, I also tried the Kulfi, ice-cream made with pistachio, saffron and nuts, and I crave for them until today.

The Food Area

Rajasthani Thali

Sweat-drenched Turban

Didn't like this one, whatever it is.

Spacious, peaceful and relaxed, Dilli Haat is a suitable place for an evening stroll capped off by a sumptuous dinner. Ethics-wise, shopping there allows you to support the actual artisan who made the product. You're assured that the money you spend goes directly to him.

INDIA: Indian Wedding

2009-10-23T09:59:00.000-07:00

The Indian wedding is one of the most important ceremonies in one's life. It symbolizes not merely a union of two hearts but of two families.

My friend and officemate, Shekhar, invited me to his relative's wedding in his hometown which was 2.5 hours away from New Delhi. We left work early and made our way to the bus terminal. It was a long and literally bumpy ride to his place. Whenever the bus ran over potholes, we would be thrown off our seats. Amazingly, Shekhar still managed to snatch some sleep despite the ride.

Shekhar on my shoulder (No homo)

On the way to his place

It was a huge celebration. I estimate that there were about 1000 guests that came and went. While we were socializing, Shekhar kept introducing me to his relatives - an uncle, a nephew, a niece, a cousin, an uncle's cousin, a cousin's uncle, a nephew's niece, a niece's nephew - you get the idea. In spite of that, he didn't know half of the people who were present. Apparently, the bride and groom didn't know everyone too. It wasn't just a family affair, the whole town was invited.

Colors

Early in to the night

There was a wide array of North Indian dishes served and I had to take little of each otherwise I wouldn't be able to taste them all. Unlike dishes and drinks served in Filipino weddings, we feasted on vegetarian food and non-alcoholic beverages. Just imagine!

"North India is all about sweets!" -Shekhar

Indians say that Indian weddings last for a whole week. True enough, I found out that this was only the third day of celebrations and after the wedding itself the celebrations will still continue. The drums were beating non-stop and the speakers were on full blast. There was an explosion of colors, dance and songs. The relatives of the couple brought out bills and twirled it on top of them, as if blessing them for a bountiful conjugal life. The party lasted until the wee hours of the morning with the wedding vows as the peak of the event.

Mehendi for the women

"When in India, do as Indians do." -Raf

"We Indians love to dance but we don't know how!" -Shekhar

"Shake that moneymaker!"

Partying until the moon sets and the sun rises

The groom arrived accompanied by the passionate drummers and wild dancing relatives. His traditional Indian wedding dress was superbly done. The amount of detail and hard work put in sewing the outfit must have made him feel like a king for a day. Then the bride came dressed with a gown that would not be outshone by her partner's ensemble. The intricate bead work of the gown complemented the sophisticated facial adornments she wore so gracefully.

The groom with his cousins assisting him in a ritual

"If you like it then you shoulda put ring on it!"

The ceremony was filled with rituals and traditions. One such tradition was for the couple to take turns in putting a necklace of flowers on each other. As per tradition, the groom went first. When it was the bride's turn, the groom's relatives lifted him as high as they could that he almost hit his head on the ceiling. Determined to complete the ritual, the bride's relatives had to lift her as high as the groom.

Raise me up!

Waiting in anticipation

Exhausted from dancing and merry-making, we headed to Shekhar's aunt's place to crash for the night. The first floor was a barn where they kept their cows and cow dung which was all over the place. The second floor had some rooms, the living room and the kitchen. The third floor was the rooftop which, little did I know, would be our place for the night! We hoisted wooden beds to the top and off to sleep we went! There was no electricity in the entire village. Our only night light was the moon and the stars that seemed to shine brighter than anywhere else I've been to.

Rooftop accommodations

View from their rooftop: Other rooftops

The next morning, they served me a traditional Indian breakfast with sugar from their farm and a glass of warm milk taken from the cows right below us.

Pancakes, Indian version (Chapati with sugar)

Now, that's what I call fresh milk!

INDIA: Camel Safari in Jaisalmer

2009-10-23T03:32:00.000-07:00

That night I slept on bed made of sand

with my backpack for a pillow
and the starry night sky as my blanket.

For 550 rupees a day, you can go on a camel safari in Jaisalmer. That includes the camel ride, food and water (don't expect too much and better bring your own), and a bonfire. One night is enough, actually. After a few hours of camel riding, your groin and rear will begin to hurt, especially when the camel starts galloping. The Thar Desert didn't look like a desert at all. There were desert plants, clay houses and wind farms all over.

At the end of the day's camel trek, sitting on the sand dunes while watching the sun set made the entire bumpy ordeal worth it.

The wind was strong all day long and I soon found sand in my ear, inside my shirt and even in the places where the sun don't shine. I had to cover my face lest the sand in the wind would prick my cheeks.

I was on my camel when it started sniffing as if there was something inside its nostril that was bothering it. Next thing I knew, its neck arched back and it vigorously rubbed its nose on my knee. It left slobber all over my pants. All in a day's work I guess?

In the middle of the nowhere, nature called on me. After dropping the bomb, lo and behold, a dung beetle immediately appeared to steal my goods. They're all yours, buddy (No photos for this one). Our pack was composed of a bunch of French medicine students and two Koreans making their way from India to Tibet (not in the photo).

The camel safari is definitely a must-try experience if you're in Rajasthan. Aside from Jaisalmer, there are other cities where you can join one. A word of caution though. My butt and back hurt and I had an upset stomach the following day. After returning to town, the cold shower in the hotel felt heavenly. I can't imagine how the others managed to do it for a whole week! According to our guide, the longest trip he had was for 21 days with two Italian women.