thoughts from arealdeal

Forcefield ZEUS knee protector - Review

2012-08-23T19:45:00.001-07:00

Having just purchased a new - used motorcycle, I am working on getting all my safety gear. With the advent of the computer and the internet it sure is easier to find out what is available and what others think of the different options. My AGV sport solare pants came with CE rated knee protectors but having them built into the pants is convenient but not as safe in my opinion. To get the pants to fit on my thighs I had to get a larger size than my waist and lower legs needed. The knee pads tend to sit below my knee. I decided the best and safest option would be to get dedicated knee protection. I looked at several brands from the hard kind to the soft ones.

I have been very impressed with the reviews and reputation of Forcefield armor so I first ordered the Forcefield Limb Tube Knee Protector. It has been around for a while and had many good reviews. The meduim size was sold out so I ordered a large. They were too big on my legs and were a bit loose. They felt pretty comfortable. They were basically a mesh material with slots that hold the CE rated knee protectors. They were a bit hot in the AZ sun and a little bunchy in the back of the knee.

I sent the large back and in the meantime read about a new product from Forcefield, the Zeus Knee Protector. It was a little more expensive than the older model limb tube but seemed to offer more protection and more comfort.

Right off the bat you can see that the Zeus knee protector offers a higher level of protection than the limb tube, It has protection for the front and sides of the knee. The Zeus knee protector is made just for the knee as opposed to the limb tube that can be used on the knee or elbow.

The back is a mesh material and it seems to allow a good amount of air flow and to not bunch up in the back of the knee.

From this side angle you can see the added side protection the Zeus offers. It has encased foam on the inner and outer knee and that is covered with an abrasion resistant material.

The Zeus knee protector is very comfortable. I can say that it is preformed for the seated riding position. So when you are standing it bunches out a bit at the knee. Not a big deal as they are made to protect you when you are on the bike.

It has a removable strap at the top and bottom of the knee protector. After checking the Forcefield website I ordered the small knee protector and I think that is a correct size. The protector seems to stay in place and not fall down when standing.

I found the Zeus to have much better air flow than the limb tube and much better feel on my leg.

Each protector has a tag and is made for the right or left knee.

The Forcefield website says they are coming out with a Zeus Elbow protector. I have not seen it for sale anywhere yet.

I am very happy with my purchased and hope to never find out how good the protection really is with all the safety gear I have purchased.

Update: Aug 31, 2012. I have worn these a few times now and really like them. I have decided to removed the top and bottom straps. They are tight enough without them. I wish I could have tried on a medium to compare but that is the price for internet shopping. I feel the elastic will only get looser over time and I can always put the straps back on. The tag that says left and right is on the straps so I can not use them as I took the straps off. I am not sure the pads really are leg specific. The pads are very comfortable when riding and I feel very protected with them on.

Update Sept 8, 2012

Someone asked my knee joint measurement. I only have a metal tape but it is about 14 1/2" - taken right at the knee bend while standing. The link below is the forcefield sizing chart site. I purchased the small and time will tell as I may have been happier with medium.

http://www.johnsonleather.com/Forcefield%20Size%20Chart_Armour.pdf

Forcefield Pro Back Protector Insert - Review

2012-08-23T19:07:00.003-07:00

I have done a lot of research on the armor available for motorcycle jackets. I recently purchased the Alpinestars Stella T-Dyno Jacket. It is a nice jacket with CE rated shoulder and elbow pads. The back pad is not CE rated. As you can see from the picture below it is just a thin piece of foam. I wanted something better for my back protector.

After much research I decided to try the Forcefield Pro Back Protector Insert. It is CE rated to Level 2 which is the current highest rating and it is supposed to be breathable and flexible. Alpinestars sells it's own replacement back protector and it costs a little less than the Forcefield one, but is only offers CE Level 1 protection. I wanted to highest level of protection and figured for a few dollars more it was worth the expense. Also, several of the motorcycle online stores give Forcefield armor very high ratings. The Forcefield protector is also re-useable which means if you have an accident the back protector does not need to be replaced as is the case with some other brands.

Forcefield has a very good website with lots of information and a sizing chart. I used the site to help me decide which of the 3 shapes I should get for my jacket. They also come in 3 sizes for each shape. I chose the small size as it best matched the protector that was already in my jacket.

I ordered it online and in a few days it was delivered to my door. Just taking it out of the box you can feel how much more it weighs than the foam protector I was replacing.

Above you can read the level B2 rating. More protection is a good thing.

Side by side. The old protector and the new one. The are pretty close in size but the Forcefield protector offers way more protection.

A side view of the 2 protectors. The Forcefield protector is wider than the old one.

A close up of the protector and its triangle design.

It is very easy to change the back prtotector. You unzip the zipper on the back of the jacket, pull the old protector out and insert the new one. My jacket has a slot a few inches up inside the back of the jacket that holds the protector in place. There were no instructions for which way to insert the protector. We decided to put the smooth side of the protector next to our back.

I can feel the added weight, but as you can see in the picture the protector is not really noticeable. I think the added protection this protector offer is worth a slight increase in weight. The Forcefield Pro Back Protector Insert feels very comfortable and I feel more secure that if I do have an accident this protector will give me a better protection.

I hope I never find out how good the protection really is but if I do have an accident I fell I have done my best to be well protected.

Alpinestars Stella T-Dyno Waterproof Jacket - review

2012-08-21T15:31:00.004-07:00

After getting my motorcycle I needed a jacket for the warm AZ desert. I still had my old Hein Gericke leather motorcycle jacket that was about 20 years old and had not been used in many years. It was too hot and heavy for AZ.

As you can see the Hein Gericke jacket is in excellent condition. I thought about selling it but it is too nice to sell. Not sure how good the protection is as compared to the armor available today.

The first jacket I ordered went with the pants I liked by Scorpion. I ordered a XL Scorpion Nip Tuck Jacket.

I liked the jacket but it was too small just like the pants. After giving up on the Scorpion pants I decided to forgo the matching jacket. It was a nice jacket and looked great. It just didn't fit me.

Next I tried a close out Joe Rocket Flame mesh jacket. It was a great price but it just didn't fit that well. As you can see it is a nice looking jacket and it would have gone well with my Yamaha TW200 motorcycle.

On ebay I found the Alpinestars Stella T-Dyno Waterproof Jacket. It was white, blue and black which matched my bike and helmet. I ordered the 2Xl and in the end think I probably should have gotten the XL but the seller had a no return policy so I figured better a little big then too small.

You can see how well the jacket goes with my helmet.

And my Alpinestars gloves.

I think the jacket looks great and with the waist adjustment it isn't too big. The only issue is that the elbow protectors are a bit too low depending on how I am holding my arm. The jacket has a removable liner which I removed as I am too hat as it is and it seldom rains here.

I have added Alpinestars Stella Bionic Chest pads. I found some for half price on ebay. They were new in an open package. They fit into slots in the jacket.

The pads are in the jacket but it you cant really tell in the photo below. At the very least it makes it seem like I have a bigger chest than I really do. I can not feel them when I am riding and with the jacket being a bit too big I am not sure they sit correctly when I am in the riding position. In the end for 15 bucks they are worth the added protection.

You can see in the above picture the extra room in the waist. I have the waist adjusted to as small as possible. The jacket is only a little too big and if I end up getting the Forcefield Body armor it will probably be just right.

I would really like to get the Forcefield Pro Armor but it retails for about 270.00.

Below you can see the back protector that came with my jacket.

The big negative with most motorcycle jackets is the back protectors. They are usually not CE rated. This one looks a little better than foam padding. It is not very think and I am doubtful that it offers much protection.

Below is the Forcefield back protector that is made to replace the one that came with my jacket. It offers CE level 2 protection and I plan to upgrade to this soon. It retails for about $100.00.

With shipping I paid $95.00 for the jacket which supposedly retailed for about $200. The jacket matches my gloves, helmet and bike perfectly. It is very comfortable. I have not tested in the rain and hope to never do so.

Alpinestars Stella T-Dyno Waterproof Jacket technical information.

600 denier fabric with PU coating.
Women specific fit.
Adjustable waist and sleeve cuffs.
Removable thermal liner.
Chest pad compartments with PE protection padding.
Soft micro-fiber collar and cuffs for superior comfort.
Reflective piping and logos for increased night time visibility.

I would like to say how happy I was with 99% of the online stores I dealt with. Shopping for clothing online is very hard and not being familiar with motorcycle clothing sizing it was extra hard. We live out in the boonies so mail order was our only option. Mail order is a slow process as you order, wait for it to come and if you need to exchange or return that takes more time. It has taken me a month to get my basic outfit together.

AGV Sport Solare Pants - review

2012-08-21T14:25:00.001-07:00

After purchasing my used 2000 Yamaha TW200 motorcycle I needed to get the proper safety gear. That includes pants. As I looked online for women's pants I was dismayed at the lack of selection and choices. I do not like pink and I am not small and petit. I am 5'9" and weight 155 pounds. I have an athletic build and have large thighs. Living in AZ I also have to deal with heat. My preferred pants are actually shorts and it has to get below zero to get me to wear pants.

After searching I ordered the Scorpion’s Savannah Pants. They look cool and I hoped would fit. I ordered the XL and was a bit concerned as most reviews said the pants ran small. They were correct.

Though they fit perfect in the low rise waist, they were very tight in the thighs. I sent the XL back and tried the 2XL (though it still seems wrong to get 2XL) The new pants fit well in the thighs but were way too big in the low rise waist and with my jacket on left a gap on my back of unprotected skin. I did not have my Sidi boots at the time so I do not know how they would have worked with the boots. Reluctantly I returned them and kept looking.

Next I tried the AGV Sport Solare Pants. They are supposed to be good in hot weather and offer built in padding and adjustability. I ordered the XL after finding the Large a bit to hard to get over my Sidi boots and a little snug in the thighs.

As you can see they are a bit big in the waist but are a good fit in the thighs. They are not as stylish as the Scorpion pants but then they only cost $100 as opposed to $170.

The pants make it look like I have no rear end. But the padding will hopefully protect me in the event of an accident. The AGV pants have a very high waist, too high for my taste but that will give me more protection in case of an accident.

As you can see the pants run big in the waist but they are adjustable and I can snug them up. I can also wear my Knox armored shorts underneath as well as regular shorts.

For around a hundred dollars these are good pants for street riding in hot weather. They are well vented and have lots of adjustability in the waist and are large enough that I can wear shorts underneath. I plan on wearing the Forcefield Zeus knee protectors under the pants as I find the built in knee protectors do not line up properly with my knee and I think you get better protection with a dedicated knee protector.

For off road riding I am getting a pair of motocross pants.I will still be able to use my Knox armored shorts and Forcefield Zeus knee protectors.

Here is the technical information on the AGV Sport Solare Pants.

100% 600-D polyester strengthened woven textile and mesh pant for durability and comfort

Full mesh lining

CE approved knee pads

10mm thick memory foam hips and lower back pad

Mesh panels on the front and rear of the upper leg for maximum cooling on hot days

Reflective piping is used on the outside of each leg for safety

Heavy duty seam construction for maximum tear resistance

World famous YKK zippers

Zip open lower legs

Extra long zipper pulls are used on all zippers

Velcro secured flap over the fly

Two front hand warmer pockets

Adjustable Velcro waist tabs

Waist connection zipper for jacket attachment

Sidi Crossfire SRS Motorcycle Boots - review

2012-08-21T11:04:00.002-07:00

My niece an avid motorcyclist told me to spend the most money on my helmet and my boots for my new motorcycle. I chose a Shoei helmet and Sidi for the boots. As we live 2 miles down an unmaintained dirt road I wanted boots that were good for off road. I wanted a lot of protection and quality. After much searching online I found a closeout deal on blue and black Sidi Crossfire SRS boots. Are the boots overkill, probably - but not overprotection. I am not a hard core motocross person, but all my riding if I leave from home will start off road. Also in AZ there are lots and lots of trails. I hope to take advantage of them and have some fun.

Retail on the boots is $525.00. They are not cheep. On closeout I saved almost $200. These boots are very well made and have replaceable parts. I like the idea of replacing the broken parts and not having to replace the whole boot.

To choose the proper size I traced my foot on a sheet of paper. In tennis shoes I wear are mens 9 or a womens 10. The sidi boots go from 8 1/2 to 9 1/2. They were sold out of the 9 1/2 so I went with the 8 1/2 which is size 42 for Sidi. They fit perfect. As these boots are not made for walking I have not had any size issues. I do have some walking issues as they are very stiff and it is a new challenge getting on and off the bike. I wore them to the post office and it was a bit clunky walking from the parking lot to our PO box. These boots are for riding and for that they are perfect.

The replaceable sole. Just take off the screws and you can out a new sole on. Mine are not worn down at all yet.

So far my only issue with the boots is how catchy the velcro is on the boots. The first time I tried on the boots with my new Sidi socks I caught the one sock while taking my foot out of the boot. I try to be very careful but it is very hard to not get the sock caught on the velcro.

I have only worn these socks a few times and look at the damage from the velcro. Not a huge issue and I may be able to find a way to get the boots off without catching my socks in the velcro. At least the velcro is strong.

The socks are also very long and go way up over my knees. I am 5'9" tall.

Wearing the boots. In the beginning the biggest challenge was walking down the basement steps to get outside. The boots are braking in and it is getting a bit easier to walk and go down and up steps.

It is nice how the boots are hinged and can bend forward easily.

This is how the boots fit me. The buckles are easy to change and as long as you wear the same gear each time you would not have to adjust them. It is very nice how each person can adjust the buckles to get the perfect fit for themselves.

Lots of protection and most of the parts are replaceable. You can even change the color of some of the parts if you were so inclined.

A fuller view where you can see how far up the Sidi socks go on my leg.

Coming form wearing tennis shoes on the motorcycle (a big safety no no) the biggest change wearing the Sidi boots is not being able to feel the shifter. With tennis shoes I could feel the upshift. With the hard Sidi boots you can't feel anything. Not bad just something I am getting used to. You know real quick if you have not shifted properly.

These are really nice boots and offer a great amount of protection. They feel comfortable to wear and come in several varieties of color combinations. I purchased a close out black and blue combination and am very pleased with my selection.

For trips to town where walking will be involved I have picked up a pair of slightly used Sidi Vertigo boots.

More detailed info on the boots.

Lorica is used as the base material.

SR sole disperses loads better than any other sole system on the market.

SR sole can be replaced using a standard screwdriver.

Sidi's Supermoto SMS soles can be fitted.

Fully adjustable calf area.

Composite insole.

Inner heat shield.

Removable arch support.

Toe area covered in protective plastic.

Rigid, shock resistant, anatomically shaped heel for maximum protection.

Cam-lock buckle system.

Cambrelle lining

All bolt-on parts are replaceable.

Malleolus external guard to enhance protection of those tender small foot bones.

Slim, cool non-bootie design.

Dual Flex System upper.

Replaceable inner kickstart/footpeg guard on both boots.

vvv

Canyon Gore-Tex Street Cruiser Boots - SIDI-CANYON-GORE-TEX (Google Affiliate Ad)

Alpinestars SMX-2 Air Carbon Gloves - review

2012-08-21T10:05:00.002-07:00

Gloves, often overlooked but on a motorcycle a very important safety accessory. If you go down on your bike you will invariably put your hand out. If you do not have a glove on you will get road rash or worse. 20 years ago when I got my first bike there was no internet. I went to a bike shop and purchased a helmet and jacket. I thought I had done more than enough. Now I know much better. Back then I wore and old leather pair of horseback riding gloves, jeans and tennis shoes. I am very lucky to have never hard an accident. I am now older and hopefully wiser.

I spent some time researching gloves. I wanted protection but I also was worried about the heat living in AZ. I was looking at Aplinestars as they had gloves that matched my bike colors and my new helmet colors and they have a good reputation. Their gloves also offered a lot of protection.

You can find them for sale at many online stores. Most online have video reviews from the store with detailed information about the products and they also have customer reviews which I found very helpful. The downside of customer reviews is there are always some very negative ones. It seems someone has always received a product that fell apart or didn't work. You have to take an overall impression of the reviews and then just take a chance.

The Alpinestars SMX-2 Air Carbon Gloves combine leather and mesh to offer a good level of protection as well as relief from your hands getting too hot. I also like the carbon fiber knuckle protectors. They feel very sturdy and appear to offer good protection to your knuckles.

So here are a picture of the gloves. I have worn them on several rides and find them very comfortable. The palm has a nice padded area to offer extra protection if you go down and the knuckles are covered with the hard protection but do not affect riding the bike in any way.

Sizing can always be tricky. I sure wish we could have standard sizing on all clothing especially. But alas we do not. I purchased these in large and they fit great. I based that on the sizing chart on the Alpinestars website and also that my garden work gloves from Menards are large and fit good. Tracing my hand on a piece of paper the longest point is 7 5/8" and the widest part of my palm is 3 7/8".

Here you can see how the gloves fit my hand and a closer shot of the carbon fiver knuckle protector.

These gloves retail for $69.95. I found a new pair on auction on ebay and got them for half price. They still had the tags attached. You can find some really good deals on ebay as people buy items and then decide they don't fit or they don't like them. If you know what you want and are patient and or lucky you can save a lot of money.

I like my new gloves and feel they will provide good protection in case of accident. With off road riding you can easily go down on unknown terrain and these will give a good level of protection. I chose the short cuff vs the gauntlet ones because I am worried about heat living in AZ. I am sure the gauntlet gloves offer more protection. That is a decision each rider must make for themselves.

Here is the info on the gloves:

Lightweight hybrid leather and mesh upper construction offers the ideal combination of durability, abrasion resistance and comfort.
Synthetic leather palm construction with Clarino® reinforcements provides extra durability and protection where it is needed most.
Exceptional impact protection afforded by Carbon Fiber knuckle protectors.
TPR finger reinforcements.
Thumb foam padding.
Reinforced landing zone with built in foam padding offers additional impact protection.
Airprene cuff with TPR Velcro® flap closure for secure, comfortable

Shoei RF-1000 Helmet - review

2012-08-21T09:31:00.003-07:00

After purchasing my used 2000 Yamaha TW200 I needed to get all the proper safety gear. I still had my old Shoei helmet from years ago. Some research online turned up a helmet safety site that suggests a new helmet every 5 years. Well my old helmet was closer to 20 years old. My niece who also rides suggested I spend the most on a good helmet and good boots. As we live out in the boonies all my shopping will be done online.

Since my new bike is white and blue I wanted a helmet to match (I am a girl after all) I checked out many sites online and found a closeout deal on the the Shoei RF-100 Seilon Helmet in white, blue and black. I wanted to make sure I purchased a helmet that was Snell rated. The DOT rating is pretty meaningless in my opinion and to be really safe you should get a Snell rated helmet. As it is an independent rating.

My old helmet was a small and after using a metal tape measure to measure my head (they suggest a cloth tape measure but I don't have one) I decided to get a small based on the size charts. I am close to the xsmall - small size and get lots of headaches so I went a bit bigger than smaller.

There are many good sites online that sell all accessories for motorcycling. Most have closeout deals and specials. With some time and a research you can find what you like at a good price. Most online stores I found offer free shipping and allow returns for exchange for a full refund. That is important as it is hard to be sure of correct fit when you can't try it on before purchasing.

The helmet fits good and feels very comfortable. I do think you have a slightly wider field of view vs my old helmet. The visor opens and closes easily. The helmet has air vents that also are easy to open and close. I can say that when driving slowly on the dirt roads I often have the visor open as it is too hot. On blacktop more than enough airflow is created and keeps you from getting too hot in the AZ sun.

My only issue has to do with my small head. The strap that connects under your chin has soft cloth on either side to protect your chin from the strap. For me, unless I am in front of a mirror the protection cloths are too big and do not fit easily under the straps. One of the cloth pieces usually goes way off to one side. I do not think this is an issue of you have large heads. For me the 2 cloth pieces overlap a lot and then as I tighten the strap one slides off to the side. Not a huge deal but a bit annoying.

Overall I really like my new Shoei helmet. I feel it is well built and comfortable and hope that if ever needed it will provide the protection desired.

Here are the details on the helmet.

RF1100 Helmet Product Details

Highly Advanced Aerodynamic Design

Shell integrated spoiler and vents

Revolutionary new shape with advanced dual liner

High performance ventilation system

The industries most effective ventilation channels

New Larger High performance QRSA shield CW-1 system

Ability to add the Fog Free pinlock system

New fully removable interior with optional cheek pads

New enlarged space around the mouth

Enlarged chin vent

4 Adjustable rear vents

Snell 2010 and DOT safety rating

Palram HG4008 Multi Line 6 ft. x 8 ft. Greenhouse

2011-09-27T15:11:00.000-07:00

We just finished assembling our Palram HG4008 Multi Line 6ft x 8ft Greenhouse and thought we would share our experience.

We purchased the greenhouse from Menards last year. Actually I called my parents in Illinois and asked them to buy it for us and we picked it up over the holidays. It was on sale for $300 which is a good price for a hobby greenhouse. (I do wish Menards was out west as it is such a better store than the other big box chains - better selection and much lower prices)

The Multi Line greenhouse description - Strong, bolt-together aluminum frame: Corrosion resistant aluminum frame features strong bolt-together connections that go together quickly and easily. Twin-wall polycarbonate panels: Clear, 4mm UV stabilized twin-wall polycarbonate panels provide excellent heat retention and diffused, even light that your plants will love. Includes galvanized base kit: Heavy-duty galvanized base kit will provide an easy way to anchor your greenhouse to your wood or concrete foundation. Adjustable Ventilation: An adjustable, roof vent and sliding door provide excellent ventilation. Width: 6'-4". Length: 8'-4". Frame spacing: 2'. Height at apex: 6'-8". Glazing: 4mm clear, twin-wall polycarbonate panels. Frame: aluminum with galvanized steel base.

****
The big consideration when purchasing this greenhouse is that the height is only 6 '5" tall and that is right in the middle of the greenhouse. We decided to put our greenhouse on a wood frame, thus raising it 12 inches. Of course that creates another problem as now it is a huge step up and over to get into the greenhouse.

I am 5'9" tall and I have to watch my head when entering the greenhouse as the door is not very tall or very wide. All the pictures online of this greenhouse do not show a person next to the door. The pictures are just of the greenhouse and some small flowers inside.

The greenhouse has a metal base that is like 6" tall that you have to step over. With our 12" added to that is an extra big step. We will build steps to get into and out of the greenhouse and are so very happy that we raised the greenhouse up otherwise I would hit my head on the lower parts of the roof.

Out of the box the side walls including the metal base are 51" tall and the peak height is 77". We spent part of 2 days assembling the greenhouse.

Since we live on a hill we had to get a load of fill to make some level ground.

For the added 12" base I used 2x4s attached to landscape timbers. We used landscape timers for the floor so we could move the greenhouse if we decide on another location.

Here is the base for the greenhouse.

Held together with 2 pieces of threaded rod.

I covered the 12" base with heavy plastic. I can always cover it with wood later one but figure that the plastic will allow the light and head to pass through. It is 4 layers thick and then I used a roll of clear packing tape on the outside wall and went round and round to cover over the plastic. Hopefully this will help the plastic last longer.

The hubby was in charge of assembling the greenhouse. The instructions are 29 pages long and mostly pictures that you have to interpret. He is more patient than I am.

Rowdy our new kitten was on hand to help out.

and not to be left out, Wiley joined in.

The greenhouse does not weigh a lot, so we decided to assemble the frame under the carport.

Lots of time trying to decipher the directions.

On a trip to the shed I saw this small snake next to the steps. Hope he does not get into my greenhouse.

Almost finished with the frame. The Hubby did that all on a Saturday. We put some boards on the frame in case of wind and finished assembly the next day.

Sunday morning we picked up the frame and moved it to the final location. It was not very heavy and was very easy to move. We did tighten the screws to move it and then had to loosen them again to install the panels.

I used our trusty Craftsman professional cordless drill to screw the base of the greenhouse to our frame. It was mostly level but not as level as we would have liked. Between the new fill, rain and the old wood we did our best.

The hubby working on the vented roof panel. We ordered the automatic vent opener for $60.00 as we felt this would be very handy as opposed having to manually open and close the vent.

After reading some reviews and blogs we decided to add a little silicone before installing the panels. We live in a very high wind area and I worry that the whole greenhouse will blow away. We had a few problems with the roof panels on one side. They did not fit into the groove at the bottom of the roof frame. One problem with using silicone as the panels do not slide as easily as one would like. I just used extra silicone to fill in any spaces where the panels did not fit as well as they should.

One strange problem was the opening vent panel. You slide it on from the back end of the greenhouse. It slid on easily, but after installing the rest of the roof panels the vent would not close all the way. We also could not move it and ended up using a hammerwould close better.

The door is a bit wanky. It does not open and close very easily and some kind of handle would be nice. We used silicone spry to lubricate the track and it works ok for now. If you are inside and want to close the door, it is very hard to open - as there is nothing to grip. Also the door does not seal very well. We have a pretty big gap on one side. We will find a way to seal it better for the winter.

Lastly we used 1/4" aircraft cable to attach the greenhouse frame to the ground. Again my fear is the very high winds, 75mph at times.

We just ordered some bubble wrap to install on the inside of the greenhouse in an attempt to keep it from freezing inside. We also filled several 5 gallon pails with water as they will help keep the greenhouse warm on winter nights.

We made our own self watering planter boxes from Wal-Mart 18 gallon containers. They sit on top of the water filled 5 gallon pails.

All finished. Now we will see if we can grow over winter in the high desert All in all for the price it is a good value. We have a lot to learn about growing in the high desert and are happy not to have a huge amount of money invested in the greenhouse.

Home made Earthbox

2011-09-27T13:12:00.000-07:00

How I made my own earthbox self watering planters for my new greenhouse.

We just assembled our 6x8 Multi Line Greenhouse and we were trying to decide what kind of planter boxes we wanted. Our hope is to be able to grow vegetables over the winter. We live in the high desert at about 5000 feet. It freezes at night but gets warm during the day.

I looked into the Earthboxes online and they seem very nice and have good reviews. If money were no object I would have bought 5 or 6 of them.

After doing more research online I decided I could make my own Earthboxes. I purchased 8 - 18 gallon round tubs from Wal-Mart at about $6.00 each. They come in several colors.

Once I had the tubs chosen I needed to decide how I was going to make the water reservoir. Several other sites talk about using 2 Rubbermaid tubs. They cut the bottom portion of tub and turn it upside down to make the chamber for the water, that sounds good and I am sure it works. For me that was too expensive. Rubbermaid tubs are not cheap and using 2 for each Earthbox would cost too much.

I decided to just use some old plywood to make my chamber and to hold it up with 2" plastic tubing that we had lying around.

First I made a template (from the box the greenhouse came in) that was the size the wood would need to be for my chamber. I made the chamber to correspond to the first ring on the tub. The template was made out of a plastic material and it was easy to cut. Easier than cardboard I found.

Once I was happy with my template I cut one out of the plywood. I just used old scraps we had around and some we had received from our neighbor as he always checks with me before throwing away any lumber. As you can see I did not put the hole in the middle right in the middle. I wanted to leave a little extra room on one side for the watering tube.

I know the wood looks a little beat up but I figure it will last as long as my $6.00 tub.

Several sites mention using pond baskets for the wicking of the water to the soil. I bought some at Home Depot for about $2.50 each. I then went to the dollar store and found these plastic baskets for a dollar. I cut out the bottom of the basket and will install them upside down as I feel the top of the basket has more support.

I used a Dremel to cut out the bottom of the basket. It was easy to cut though the plastic did wrap around the Dremel cutter.

The basket in the tub before assembly

This is how it looks in the template. The basket also provides some support to the wood.

side angle

Once I got the wood and the basket I needed to cut some holes into the wood to allow water to drain. I also added some holes to the bottom of my blue basket.

Now I needed to make supports to hold my wood up and keep it above the water chamber. I again used my 2" plastic and cut 3 support legs for each tub. I cut the legs to be 5 1/2" each, or as close as I could get as our small chop saw could not cut the 2" pipe in one try and I had to turn it so not all the cuts are straight, but the bottom of the tub has a ring so nothing will be level anyway.

The water chamber holds 5 gallons of water.

My tub filled with all my support legs.

Here is a close up of the support leg. I also cut some holes into each leg using our small table drill press. This way the water will not get trapped in the legs. At least I hope the water will not get trapped.

Before installing each leg I added a few dabs of silicone on the top and bottom to help hold them in place.

I cut the water tube to be 20" long and made a angle cut with the hacksaw on the bottom to make it easier for the water to drain into the tub. Here you can see the wood, with water holes and the blue wicking basket all in place.

I added some cheap landscape fabric on top of the wood to help keep the soil from falling into the water reservoir and to help protect the wood at least a little bit. I also used landscape fabric inside the blue basket to keep the soil inside the basket. The water should wick up to the main area of the planter box through the blue basket. I filled it up with soil and packed it tightly.

I made 8 - 18QT tubs for my 6x8 greenhouse. I used the Miracle Grow Moisture Control Pottting mix in the 64QT bags. 1 bag will almost fill 2 pots.

I left a little room for the 3 planters on my deck. I hope they will over winter in the greenhouse and not freeze. I am also going to add 1/2" bubble wrap to the inside of the greenhouse to help insulate it. As you can see I also have 5 gallon tubs filled with water. They raise my tubs and also will provide heat during the night.

Paddle Cactus

2011-06-26T19:37:00.000-07:00

A few shots of the paddle cactus in our yard with lots of flowers in bloom.

this is the most flowers we have seen on this cactus since we moved in

notice the bee inside the center of the flower

Germany & Belgium May 3-17, 2011 Part 1 Bamberg

2011-06-25T14:02:00.000-07:00

So after five years of marriage we finally went on our honeymoon. We saved airlines miles so the flight only cost $300 for both of us. Those United Airlines free tickets sure ain't what they used to be. Two friends came along for part of the trip. Their son is stationed in Wiesbaden, Germany. This helped us decide where to fly into, Frankfurt, which is close to Wiesbaden.

We checked the exchange rates before we left and this was the most painful part of the trip, it varied from .65 cents to .70 cents to the dollar. So if you went to the ATM and took out 300 euro it cost you about 450 US dollars and that is before ATM fees on both sides and the bank exchange fees of 3%. We tried to use our credit card whenever possible, we have one that does not charge to exchange Euro transactions to US dollars.

The flight was actually on Lufthansa on a 747. The plane was old and the seats very uncomfortable. About 3 hours in I though my rear end was going to kill me. I used 2 pillows to help. No internet or seat tv's only the old school ones every ten feet or so along the aisles. So my husband along the window could not really see the tv.

(Here we are waiting to board the plane)

We left Chicago O'Hare at 3:30 PM on May 3rd and arrived in Frankfurt on May 4th at 6:50AM. No one managed much sleep on the flight and since it was already morning we had decided to forgo sleep and start our adventure. Our friends son, the Marine was waiting for us at the airport. After a brief wait for our checked bags (Lufthansa allows one free checked bag each) we headed for the train and our first destination, Bamberg. We had purchased the Eurail passes back in the states and could use most trains for a certain amount of days. We tried to pack light for lots of travel, but still found lugging the suitcases on the crowded trains a bit of an ordeal.

(Steve at the airport - a little piece of home)

(The train station in Frankfurt)

(The train station main entrance in Frankfurt)

(Waiting with the luggage while the boys ask which train we should take. We were lucky to travel with mean who were not afraid to ask questions)

(Our ICE train to Bamberg)

In a few hours we arrived in Bamberg. We choose Bamberg for two reasons. The first and most important to my husband was smoked beers. Bamberg is famous for smoked beers and he wanted to try them. The 2nd reason was that Bamberg was not destroyed in WW2, so they have a very large Old Town section that dates to the middle ages.

So our first stop, luggage in tow, was at Schlenkerla. Their specialty is a dark, bottom fermented smoked beer, and tapped from a gravity fed oak wood cask. For my first lunch I had Schnitzel wiener art with pomme fries - which is breaded fried pork and french fries. Very good. I am not much of a drinker so I ordered water. Our friends son told us that they do not serve tap water and the bottled water tastes weird. He was correct, it tasted bad and it was just plain water. The smoked beer on the other hand was very good and my husband was very happy.

(Outside Schlenkerla - since 1405)

(The sixpointed star is the traditional guild sign of the franconian brewers - it is called the beerstar or brewstar)

After lunch we headed to the hotel to get rid of the luggage. It was a short bus ride out of the main part of town.

We stayed at the Hotel Buger Hof, which has been owned by the same family since 1898 and is being run by the 4th generation. It also is a beer garden and restaurant. A very nice, quiet place to stay. The staff was friendly, the room nice and clean and the meals very good.

(Steve in front of the hotel)

(The phone booth - and it still works)

(Across the street from the hotel)

(Walking towards town from the hotel)

(At breakfast - what a fantastic room)

We Stopped at the Tourist office and purchased the Bamberg City Card. It was good for 3 days and gets you into many attractions for free as well as allows you to use the bus. As our hotel was a bus ride out of town, we decided it was a good deal

(Cigarette vending machines)

(The bike paths - watch out and listen for the bells which are your last warning that a biker is coming)

(The old Town Hall of Bamberg, built in 1386 in the middle of the river. Rebuilt in 1744-56)

(Inside the old Town Hall is a museum)

(A staircase inside the old Town hall, it is made from marble or cement, not wood that's for sure)

(A closer look at the design, it is in sections, so it might be cast from a mold or cut from marble)

(Statue of St or Queen Kunigunde - the walking tour we took said there used to be several more statues located along the Regnitz River, but they were destroyed by ice flows)

(Cool blue building that the walking tour said something about but we can't remember. Kunigunde is in the foreground)

(Queen Kunigunde with the old slaughterhouse in the background across the river)

(statues behind the town hall)

(across from the statue above)

(an old crane in town next to the ancient slaughterhouse)

(Little Venice of Bamberg)

(A Chinese restaurant with the Madonna and Child Statue above)

(The Bamberg Cathedral dates back to 1002. It was completed in 1012)

(old lion statue at the entrance to the cathedral)

(A side entrance to the Cathedral)

(notice the statues at the side entrance, people standing on top of other people)

(The Alte Hofhaltung, residence of the bishops in the 16th and 17th centuries)

(The inner courtyard of the Alte Hofhaltung)

(The New Residence of the Bamberg Prince-Bishops was begun in 1613)

(close up of the New Residence)

(the rose garden of the New Residence)

(another angle of the rose garden, you can see the Michaelsberg Abby)

(picture taken from the rose garden of the New Residence and showing Michaelsberg Abby in the distance)

(shot of Michaelsberg Abby from town)

(Steve checking out the sites with Michaelsberg behind him)

(The view from the rose garden without the telescope)

(Michaelsberg Abby - the 1st church built around 1015 was destroyed by an earthquake around 117. The new church was finished in 1121 and damaged by fire in 1610)

The church is still in use. They used to brew beer in the Abby in the brew house from 1122 until 1969. Now it is a museum. This was quite a walk from town as the Abby is located on one of Bamberg's "Seven Hills" - it was well worth the walk. It is a very large museum with lots of cool old equipment and tolls.

(Frankisches brauereimuseum Museum entrance sign)

(Steve checking out the museum. he loves anything to do with beer)

(Steve looks inside the beer barrel)

(inside the beer barrel)

(cool display of making barrels)

We really enjoyed the beer museum. if you like walking you can see most of the sites on foot. Gives you a good workout but then you don't have to feel bad about drinking the beer.

(On our way to get drinks one night we saw this in the hallway of a local bar - The Simpsons are universal)

(The pumps at a local gas station)

(One of the narrow old streets through town)

Saturday May 7th, we head to the Bamberg Train Station (built between 1846-1848) and head to Mittenwald.

Building an 8x12 shed

2011-06-25T07:12:00.000-07:00

Started writing this in January and it is now June - time gets away -

For our new years first project we have decided to build an 8x12 shed. In our old house in South Dakota we bought a really nice pre-built shed built by the local Mennonites. Unfortunately when we moved we had to leave it behind. So we are going to try and build it ourselves this time.

The shed going to be 8x12 and 10 foot high.

Materials list (will update as we go along) we built with 2x4's but many people use 2x6's - we are not putting any heavy equipment like riding lawn mower in the shed so we think 2x4 will be fine.

4 - treated 4x4
2 - treated 2x4x12
12 - treated 2z4x8
3 - treated 3/4" 4x8 sheets of plywood
42 - 2x4x10 (10 foot tall wall uses 14 2x4x10's
2- 2x4x10 for the top plates
1 - 36" steel door
15 - 4x8 3/8' OSB primed panel siding
1 - wall vent
26 - 2x4-8 for the roof rafters - we did spaced them at 16" as opposed to 24" -
2 - 2x4 x8 for the top plate
1 - 2x6x12 roof ridge beam
many tubes of silicone

Tools

miter saw
circular saw
square
level
snap line
screw gun
hammer
ladder

wood screws - we use the star bit outdoor screws. You can use nails as well but we prefer the screws and love the star bit ones as they almost never strip out.

First we assembled the floor frame, partially so we would know where to put the blocks for leveling. It also helps in deciding location of the shed.

A note on lumber. It is almost always a bit long, so you should square the ends and make sure it is the exact length you desire.

Always wear hearing protection

We carried around the partial floor frame to pick the perfect location for our shed.

We cut the treated 2x4x12's to exactly 12 foot long. Then you can lay the boards on edge together and mark the floor joist locations for both boards at the same time. Then you cut the floor joists to be exactly 8 foot. You need to minus the width of the 2 - 2x4x12's to get the correct length. We set the 2x4x12's on the ground at 8 foot apart and measured the distance from the inside of the boards. Cut one treated 2x4x8 and then set it in pace and measure to see if it is correct. Then use that board as a template to measure the rest of the floor joist boards. You need 12 for this project. We will use 2 treated 2x4x8's on both ends.

Then we need to level the ground where the shed will live. That was a lot of work for the hubby as we live on a hill and don't have any ground that is close to level.

We built our floor frame out of treated 2x4x12's and 2x4x8's - we will be using 4 treated 4x4's under the frame, in case we ever decide to move the shed.

Once we decided on the location of the shed it was time for leveling. A pick, shovel and a lot of hard work. You can buy gravel for a base, but we are cheep and just used the available soil. I would suggest using solid cement blocks for leveling the shed. We had the other kind sitting around so we used them. The one side of the shed needed 3 blocks to be level. We had 3 that were already cemented together.

the 3 blocks seen here are cemented together and solid


we added supports on the ends and in the middle

Once we got the blocks level we set the 4 - treated 4x4's on the blocks and then put the floor frame down. Then we installed the rest of the floor joists. We used 2 - 3" screws on the end of each board.

you can see the marks we made for board location 16" on center

Then measure from the corner of the frame crosswise to the other corner. Then do the opposite corners. They should measure the same length. If not try and adjust to get them the same as this will mean your frame is square.

you can see the 4 - treated 4x4's under the floor frame

Then we used 3 1/2" screws to attach the frame to the 4x4's. We also used some 4" screws to attach the fame edges to the 4x4's. This is where you can have some trouble as it is hard to get 4x4's that length that are straight. Ours had a bit of a curl to them. We did our best to square everything.

Now it is time for the treated 3/4" 4x8 sheets of plywood. Ours weights 110 pounds each. We used a dolly to move them around. We did one at a time starting from one end. Lay the sheet down and make sure it fits squarely on your frame. We put a screw in the corners. Then we ran a chalk line to mark the location for the screws. We put our 2" outdoor screws every foot.

one sheet pf plywood on with one ready. Marking the board locations

we marked to floor board location on the side boards

after snapping a line - we put in the screws

We had to trim a little off the 3rd sheet of plywood. After we put it on, it was a little long, so we used our battery powered circular saw and cut it even with the end of the frame.

Now it is time to make the walls. Our will be ten foot high. We started with the 12' side walls. We cut 4 - 2x4x12's to exactly 12 foot long. Then just to be more safe we checked the length to the frame to make sure they were correct. We did this after we cut the first 2x4x12. Then you can use it as a template for the other 3. Remember to cut a little off one end of each board and then measure for your final length cut. That way the boards are square.

Then we took 2 - 2x4x12's and set them down on our work space and measured the 10 foot length minus the width of the 2 -2x12's. Grab a 2x4x10 and trim one end. Then cut it to the measured length and set in down into the frame and measure. If it is the correct length, then you can cut the rest of the boards using that board as your template.

We took our stack of 2x4x10's and first trimmed all the ends square. Then we cut the other ends to length using our template. We know we need 28 2x4x10's for the side walls and at last 12 for the ends walls.

For the 12' side walls we start with 3 - 2x4x10's on each end. Then from the middle of the inside 3rd 2x4x10 we measured 16" and marked where each board will go. We like to take the top and bottom board and mark the 16" location at the same time on both boards. In fact we did 4 boards for the 2 walls. That way they will all be exactly the same.

Since our shed is located a bit away from the house, we only partially assembled the wall and then carried it over to the shed location. If you are building your shed near a power source then you can build the walls right on the floor of the shed. We set the partially assembled wall on the floor of the shed and then screwed in the rest of the wall boards, again using two 2" outdoor screws in each board end.

Time to add the 4x8 sheets of siding. We started each sheet about 4" below the wall. I had intended it to cover the treated 2x4 floor frame, but I did not take into account the 3/4" floor, so it is a little short for covering the floor frame. Live and learn.

For the first wall we put up, one of the long 12 foot walls, we attached the 4x8 siding before we put up the wall. This is where I went wrong with trying to cover the floor framing 2x4. Since we attached the siding on the wall before putting the wall up. Too late - or too much trouble to change. We braced the wall with 2 braces, one on each side and used a level and once happy with the level screwed in the braces.

With the wall braces screwed into the floor of the shed, we could not build the remaining walls on the shed floor. We partially built them on our concrete pad and then carried them over the the shed and put the remaining boards in. We next attached the 2nd 12' long wall. We decided not to atatch the 4x8 sheets of siding as it makes the wall heavy. After leveling and bracing the 2nd wall, we built the end wall. We measured the space left between the side walls and cut 2 - 2x4x8s to length for the top and bottom wall boards and then added in the 2x10's for the walls. This was the easiest wall to attach as it was smaller. Again for this wall we did not put the siding on ahead of time.

We framed the front wall in place as we had to account for the door and window and figured we could do that easier on the spot. We measured the door frame and left a space for that. We ended up doing the door header wrong, as we put up the 10 foot wall boards and just left the exact space for the door frame. Again, another learning experience for us. Since it is only a shed, we added support inside the shed for the door frame as we did not want to take the wall down and start over.

Then we added the top plate, making sure the boards overlapped the seams of the wall boards. For extra support, we took 2 2x4x8 boards and screwed them across the shed - top plate to top plate.

Then we installed the 4x8 sheets of siding to the other 12' wall and the back wall. We had to trim a little off the end pieces but all in all the siding went up pretty easily. We did add a coat of primer to the ends and any cuts of the siding,. It already comes primed, but we wanted to protect the ends as much as possible as once installed several can't be accessed to be painted.

We did not side the front as we need to install the door and window first.

This step is not necessary, but we liked to have plywood on the inside of the shed. In South Dakota I even added insulation. We used 4x8x 7/16 osb plywood. I installed the sheets the tall way on the insulate of the shed walls, except for the front wall which is not finished. Then I cut pieces to fill in the remaining 2 feet to cover the full ten foot walls. Then, since we will be using the shed for storage, at 7' we added a row of 2x4's to create a frame for the attic floor. I then used 2x4x8's to support the floor of the attic. I am creating two attic spaces at both ends of the shed with an open sot in the middle of the shed for access. Each side will be 4' wide and a little less than 8' long as one looses the width of the walls. It should give us lots of space for storage and a nice platform for installing the roof.

I screwed up here again. for the attic floor on the front side of the shed, I did not put in the final board as the door needed to be installed first. I installed the door (this was when I realized we did the header board wrong) and the I also realized the attic floor needed to move up at least an inch to allow the door to open. So much to consider. I decided to move the attic floor on the front side of the shed up 4" so it will not be a problem. The other attic floor in the back of the shed I left at 7'.

Materials list for the attic floor –

2 sheets 4x8x 7/16” plywood

11- 2x4x8 6 along the walls, 4 floor joists – I spaced the floor joists at 2’

1 – cut and screwed between the floor joists for more support – 2 supports for each joist

We installed the plywood on the roof as well before installing the metal. We had our house roof replaced the previous fall and used some of the leftover pieces on the shed. I had to paint some of the metal roof to match as they had used some green metal roofing to protect the red in transport. I used automotive paint on the green metal.

My husband just picked a height for the roof (not very scientific I know) and we then made the trusses to fit that. We used a 2x6 and cut the 2x4's to attach to it from both sides. It was very steep, especially when you ahd to be on the roof as I was to attach the top cap and roofing sheets. We were somewhat limited as to having an overhand as we only had some much roof material and did not want to buy any. He made a template for the side supports and then cut the rest to match. We did ours 16" on center as we have high winds and want lots of support. WE do not have much rain so we are not as worried about leaks.

We installed the plywood in sections so we could access the roof from my attic space inside. It made it easier and safer. I am a big fan of silicone. When in doubt I use it. It is supposed to last for years and is an extra safety precaution for not a lot of money.

With the roof on and the door and window installed it is time to paint. On the corners we used hardiboard trim. Should last forever and it looks great. Along the back wall of the shed we added a vent.

It looks pretty nice and has lots of storage. I have since sealed up the bottom with aluminum and wire to try and keep pack rats from nesting. I also added a ramp to the front door. Makes it easy to get the garden cart in and out.

We finished the shed in February and I made the ramp in March. Still getting the inside organized.

Invasion of the Wasps

2010-10-15T06:00:00.000-07:00

So what if it this fall. We have been inundated with wasps. They swarm all around the house and yard. It does not feel safe to enjoy the nice fall weather. The wasps are in the landscape blocks looking for hoes to get inside and build nests. I used mortar mix in the tube and tried to seal up as many of the holes as I can find. The wasps are determined and manage to reopen some of the holes.

S.S. was stung twice last month as he inadvertently went too close to a wasp next in some cement blocks. I have been lucky and they have not stung me, yet. I try and do my hole sealing in the morning before the sun hits the hole. The wasps are sleepy and not active.

I am not talking about a few wasps, we have hundreds that buzz around the house all day looking for holes I guess. I even had to use silicone between some deck boards as they seemed to have built a nest somewhere between the boards. Probably in the dry rotten wood. I will say that the wasp spray works great and from far away.

I have just finished painting the exterior of our house and I had to really think about how and when to paint to try and cut down the the wasp issue. Early morning was best as they are not active yet. Boy when the sun hits where they are, they just start their buzzing all around. Nothing like being up on a ladder, holding your paint try and trying to dodge a wasp.

S.S. thought it was funny the way I painted. Of course he is afraid of heights. The other side of the house is even taller as the previous owner dug for a new basement but never finished it, so we just have a big hole and a living room door with one big step to the ground.
.

S.S. took this picture and wrote a funny caption...

Is your ladder TOO SHORT for those hard-to-reach paint jobs? Don’t stand on that unsafe top step! But don’t spend $$$$ on a bigger ladder! Get the new Laddr-Xtender! Yes, Laddr-Xtender increases ANY ladders height nearly three full feet.

Stable, safe and secure! Less than one fifth the cost of a clumsy, hard-to-store bigger ladder. Get one today! (OSHA approval pending.) (Auxiliary ladder for climbing up to Xtender-ed ladder not included.)

You have to admit he's a good writer.

Oh, but I digress from the wasps.

One problem I know is that the previous owner set up an automatic water system for the birds and animals. It too is surrounded by wasps all day all summer. I feel bad for the birds and animals like the bunnies, though they do not seem to have been stung. Still not fun to have to worry about that while trying to get some water. Have not figured out a way to discourage the wasps from the water and I hate to take it away from all the critters.

The bobcat does not come by very often and if you are not looking outside at the right moment you will miss his visit.

With the good comes the bad I guess.

So tonight the hubby was out putting the glass bottles in the back of the vehicle to take to the recycling center - the plastic garbage can had split and as he moved a bag to remove it - you guessed it wasps attacked - they were making a nest inside the can - as he flailed his hands to protect himself (you remember he was stung twice last month) his wedding ring flew off. He could not find it - but like a good wife I found it - he was very relieved - I was happy he was not stung.

S.S. Wilson - LA Book Signing - Saturday Oct 16th

2010-10-13T18:21:00.000-07:00

S.S. Wilson will be doing a book signing for his action adventure novel Tucker's Monster on Saturday October 16th at 2:00 PM. Stop by and say hi.

In his first novel, veteran screenwriter S. S. Wilson (Tremors, Short Circuit, The Wild Wild West) offers up a rollicking adventure in which wide-eyed Whitney learns about werewolves, mummies, ghosts, and even meets a mad scientist. On a more subtle level, Wilson also pokes ample fun at classic horror movie clichés as he careens toward an unexpected (and Hollywood sized) climax.

The store is: BOOKFELLOWS / MYSTERY AND IMAGINATION

The book store is located at 236 N Brand Blvd. in Glendale, CA. 91203 (818) 545-0206
www.mysteryandimagination.com/

S.S. Wilson Takes His Novel Tucker’s Monster to a Halloween Party at Poisoned Pen Book Store in Scottsdale, AZ

S.S. Wilson (known for the such popular movies as Short Circuit, Tremors and The Wild Wild West) joins a ghoulish gallery of noted fantasy authors signing their works at The Poisoned Pen book store in Scottsdale, AZ. The authors are James A Owen (The Dragon's Apprentice), Weston Ochse (Empire of Salt & Scarecrow Gods) , Sam Sykes (Tome of the Undergates) and Larry Corriea (Monster Hunter: Vendetta). Wilson will be signing his new action adventure novel, Tucker’s Monster.

The store, specializing in mysteries and thrillers, will host its “Halloween Party” event Sunday October 24th from 2 to 4 PM at its location on 4014 N Goldwater Blvd. Suite 101 Scottsdale, AZ 85251. For more information call the The Poisoned Pen book store at (480) 947-2974 or visit their website: www.poisonedpen.com.

The Poisoned Pen
4014 N Goldwater Blvd. Suite 101
Scottsdale, AZ 85251
(480) 947-2974

http://www.poisonedpen.com

If you can not make the book signings and want a copy of the book it can easily be ordered from Amazon or Barnes & Noble. Autographed copies and copies signed and personalized by the author are available from arealdealproductions

The site also sells autographed 8x10 photos from Tremors and Short Circuit.

S.S. is currently working on his 2nd novel Fraiday Cats. I have read the book and it is a lot of fun. Another period piece. This one seeks to tell the real story of what really happened in Dr. Frankenstein’s lab. Another page turner from a master writer.

Tremors Blu-ray release date November 9, 2010

2010-10-07T06:27:00.000-07:00

Some Tremors news today. Universal has finally gotten around to putting Tremors on Bu-ray. It is set to be released on November 9th. So far I have found no news on the release dates of the other Tremors films, but hopefully they are in the pipeline.

According to Amazon the extra features include a making-of documentary, a video showing the creation of the worm-creatures, outtakes from the film, the original ending not shown in theaters, original theatrical trailers, and production photographs.

Hope the Blu-ray and extras are worth the price of admission. Amazon lists the film for $24.49 which is .51 cents under the free shipping offered when you spend 25 bucks.

Here is a link to a youtube video S.S. Wilson made describing how he got the idea for Tremors years before he wrote the script with his writing partner Brent Maddock.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyYH2WUDx1w

S.S. Wilson also has a facebook page: facebook.com/SSWilson.movieguy

Why did the Bears have to loose when I finally got to watch the game?

2010-10-06T20:07:00.000-07:00

So of course this past Sunday night I finally got to see the Chicago Bears game.

We have lived for several years without any tv, only dvd's and netflix, then my folks came to visit and they needed tv so we bought an antenna. Luckily for us it is only 60 miles to the nearest tv station.

The Spanish station comes in the best and is in HD. Go figure. NBC has the best reception of the network stations. (I won't go into all the religious stations & infomercial stations) The antenna is outside on a pole and has a remote that will move it from side to side up to 90 degrees. It helped some with the tuning but would be a pain to have to do that all the time. Luckily I don't watch much tv, so not a big deal.

As a lifelong Chicago Bears fan, I decided to take advantage of our new antenna and watch the game. I only made it to half time as I knew it was going bad and was too depressing to watch. After 3 weeks of split second, game ending wins, I was hoping for some good action.

Oh, well. I feel Like Bing Crosby, who left the country during the 1960 World Series and had his people film the game off the tv. He knew if he watched it would be bad luck. Of course that ended up being great luck for his team and for fans now that that film has been found.

I was sure expecting some offense from the Bears, especially after all the glowing stories of the new offensive coordinator Mike Martz. Didn't see any of that on Sunday night against the Giants. Of course Jay spent most of the first half on his butt. Well any team can have a bad week.

Funny how many new names are on the team. Walter Payton will always be my favorite player - he had class and was a great player.

This brings me to the point of the blog, a picture from the past - when I worked on the Jamie Kennedy Experiment, Season 3. We filmed in New York and did a segment with Tiki Barber and Amani Toomer.

Of course I had to wear my Bears shirt that day. One must always show their true colors.

They were great guys and it was fun nice to meet them. Later on in the season on the Jamie Kennedy Experiment we filmed in Chicago and had Da Coach on. That will be another post.

Tucker's Monster - a new action adventure novel by S.S. Wilson

2010-10-06T19:22:00.000-07:00

Real Deal Productions is proud to announce that S. S. Wilson’s novel, Tucker’s Monster, won the prestigious Bill Fisher Award for Best First Book - Fiction, presented at the 2011 Benjamin Franklin Awards, May 23 in New York.

The best action adventure novel I have read this year (of course it may be the only one as well).

Finished reading this book a few months ago. It is a fun fast read. S.S. Wilson is a screenwriter. He has written such films as Tremors and Short Circuit. He also wrote Ghost Dad but I have never seen that film. I have also never seen the film Heart and Souls either which stars Robert Downey,Jr.

This is his first novel. It is a period piece that takes place in the early 1900's. It follows a cattle rancher who searches the world trying to find a living dinosaur. It has lots of the fun elements that I enjoyed in the Tremors movies. The book is a page turner that makes it hard to put down. It goes from one adventure to the next and he really captures the time period with lots of details.

The book follows Harold B Tucker, kinda a Burt Gummer type(if you know Tremors and If you don't what is wrong with you) at least as far as guns go. He's a man who knows what he wants and isn't afraid to go after it. Of course his obsession in trying to find a living dinosaur leads him to make some questionable decisions, but then flawed characters are the most interesting.

I'll stop there. No spoilers!

If you are looking for a fun, fiction book I recommend Tucker's Monster.

I should put in the disclaimer that I know S.S. Wilson. We met on the set of Tremors 4. He is a great guy, who I ended up marrying. Well he has been a great guy so far.

Oh, and if you want to be considered arealdeal,you must have been born a "Deal"