Thoughts on Cheese

Blu Del Moncenisio

2011-01-08T19:21:00.000-08:00

Blu del Moncenisio is an Italian blue cheese made in the Piedmont region. It is riddled with deep blue veins and has a lovely, rich aroma. The texture reminds me of cambozola in that it is very creamy and doesn't crumble easily like many blue cheeses. It has a lovely velvety mouthfeel and the taste is superb - bright, peppery, assertive, and just "blue" enough.

I'd read recently on various cheese blogs that blue cheese and honey make a great pair, so I decided to try it out on the Blu del Moncenisio. Drizzled with a bit of honey, it is absolutely divine - the sweetness performs an amazing balancing act with the blue cheese's spicy, tangy flavor. This cheese ended up being the stand-out star of my cheese plate and is definitely one of the very best blue cheeses I have ever tried.

Valencay

2010-12-31T16:44:00.000-08:00

Valencay is a storied goat's milk cheese from Valencay, France. It has an aggressive look about it, with its pyramidal shape and intensely moldy rind, but it is really quite a friendly and accessible cheese.

Cutting into that brilliant mold reveals a snow white, thick, sweet-smelling goat cheese paste. I was really struck by the texture of this cheese - it is SO very dense that it has the texture of refrigerated butter, almost. Very smooth, very rich, soft and yet almost firm.

The flavor is a delightful mix of the mildest aspects of goat cheese plus a lemony sweetness that reminds me almost of dessert. This is a real stunner of a cheese that will blow your guests away with its refined taste and bold look.

The story of Valencay cheese, incidentally, is that Napoleon stopped at Valencay Castle on his way back from a failed Egyptian campaign and noticed the pyramid-shaped Valencay cheese. To avoid the painful associations, he lopped off the top of the cheese, making it a topless pyramid.

A delicious cheese with a rich history - you can't beat that. I cannot recommend this cheese enough!

Flada

2010-12-31T16:37:00.000-08:00

Flada is a newer cheese from Switzerland. It is very soft, very ripe, and ready to stink up your entire home.

The aroma of Flada is generally described as "barnyard", which is not, I suppose, too inaccurate - you definitely get a sense of filthy animals and general unwashed reek from this little fellow. But is it lovely! Oh, that reddish, ripply rind, cracking open to reveal a round expanse of yellow, runny goo - it makes a pretty picture, that's for sure.

But what of the taste? I have to say, I wasn't as blown away as I thought I'd be, but it is good and quite interesting. It is salty, meaty, milky, heady, stinky... a cheese only a cheese lover could love. It begs merely to be spooned (yes, a spoon would work better) onto crusty bread. Be sure to bring it to room temperature before eating.

Herbs De Humboldt

2010-12-31T15:51:00.000-08:00

Another instant winner from Cypress Grove Chevre, Herbs De Humboldt hits hard with a bold, exuberant flavor that will light up your mouth. Its flavor is a pure, fresh, super-tangy goat cheese mixed with a subtle combination of mellowing herbs. It is wonderful on its own but be careful of it overwhelming other cheeses on your plate. It will stand out in a salad or used in any recipe calling for fresh goat cheese.

Cablanca

2010-12-31T15:45:00.000-08:00

Cablanca is a lovely Dutch goat cheese with a firm texture and mild, nutty aroma. Much less tangy and pungent than the average goat cheese, Cablanca reminds me of a subtle Spanish cheese like Iberico, but with a touch of goaty flavor added in.

It is semi-firm but will melt well, making it perfect for burgers, pasta or pizza. It is also delicious on its own and pairs very well with softer cheeses. Its brilliant white color makes it an attractive addition to your cheese plate.

Alta Langa La Tur

2010-12-31T15:41:00.000-08:00

La Tur is a lovely, gooey cheese made in Alta Langa, Piedmont, Italy. It is very white and buttery in appearance, and after being left to sit out at room temperature, it begins to get very attractively runny. It has a mild but complex flavor, buttery and purely elegant. Paired with a crispy companion like endive or crusty bread, it will impress your guests.

A mix of cow, goat and sheep's milk, La Tur has a uniquely rich taste and is very intensely creamy. A little goes a long way!

Great Cheeses Revisited

2010-03-30T21:39:00.000-07:00

I had a kind of shocking amount of new visitors to the blog this afternoon. I was very pleased, of course, and I hope that you enjoy reading my cheese reviews!

I went grocery shopping tonight and, since I hadn't eaten dinner, ended up hungrily scouring the cheese section in the hope of picking out something new to write about. However, I noticed that the store I was at carried both Beecher's Flagship and Cypress Grove Purple Haze - two of my very favorite cheeses of all time. I couldn't resist grabbing both of them. So, if you haven't seen them before, check out my entries on these two truly great cheeses:

Beecher's Flagship

Cypress Grove Purple Haze

Please eat them immediately. They'll light up your life.

Barely Buzzed

2010-03-28T15:06:00.000-07:00

The final cheese in my Exotic & Rare cheese collection from Artisancheese.com is Barely Buzzed from Beehive Cheese Co. in Utah.

Barely Buzzed at Beehive Cheese Co. Website

This is a rich, creamy cow cheese rubbed with a mixture of ground espresso and lavender. It's very unusual, and really, really good. The aroma is divine - the espresso they use is of incredible quality. It has a smooth, semi-firm yet melt-in-your-mouth texture, and a flavor of rich, satisfying espresso followed by sweet cream, salty, nutty cheese, and finishes with the light, floral kiss of lavender.

It would go wonderfully with espresso and chocolate as a dessert. Or honey! I drizzled some honey on mine and it was so delicious. The honey really brightened the taste of the cheese and mingled perfectly with the lavender. I was very pleased with this cheese and I plan on trying more Beehive cheeses if I can find them.

RATING: 4 out of 5 stars

Testun Al Barolo

2010-03-26T21:42:00.000-07:00

Testun Al Barolo is a semi-firm goat/cow cheese from the Piedmont region of Italy. It looks luscious, no? Almost like a pie. It is aged under crushed Nebbolio grapes, which are used to make Barolo wine. The grapes impart a very winey flavor to the cheese.

The texture is wet and slightly crumbly, and it has a very sweet and creamy aroma. The taste is smooth and rich - it tastes of fresh milk, grass, and wine. It's tangy and sweet and goes wonderfully with salty foods. Eat it with red wine - Barolo would be the best choice, obviously - mild fruits, olives, and salty cured meats. It's a very classy cheese that will impress you and your friends both with its dramatic appearance and complex, sweet flavor.

RATING: 4 stars

Majorero Pimentón

2010-03-26T21:24:00.000-07:00

My Exotic & Rare cheese collection from Artisancheese.com arrived. I opened the box to find another box:

I opened this attractively designed box to find these inside:

Oh! How lovely. From left to right: Testun Al Barolo, Barely Buzzed, Majorero Pimentón, and Vervacious Cinque Terre Apricot Mostarda. (not pictured: a small package of artisan crackers.)

Well, you can just imagine how excited I was. I was very impressed with the packaging and attention to presentation shown by Artisan Cheese. They also included a pamphlet with detailed descriptions of all of my cheeses, and suggested wine pairings. I definitely got my money's worth, and I'll be ordering from them again in the future. Now, on to the first cheese:

Majorero Pimentón
This is a raw milk goat cheese made in Fuerteventura, one of the Canary Islands. Its rind is liberally coated in pimentón pepper, which is also known as smoked paprika - but the Spanish version seems both smokier and spicier.

Majorero is a hard, dry cheese with a mildly buttery aroma (once you cut past the smoky, spicy rind). The taste is really out of this world. I couldn't get enough. It's salty and vibrantly milky-tasting, but the peppered rind imbues it with a warm, smoky fullness as well. You can really get in touch with the goat's milk used to make it. It's very "natural" tasting. It also looks great, as you can sort-of see in the photo above (phone camera + bad lighting).

Majorero Pimentón is a truly impressive and exotic cheese that is still accessible to anyone's palate. I can't recommend it enough. Serve it with Spanish accompaniments like ham, almonds, fig jam, and such. It'll blow your mind.

RATING: 5 Stars

iPhone App: Fromage

2010-03-25T21:26:00.000-07:00

iPhone/iPod Touch users: There's a really cool app you should get right now. It's called "Fromage". It's a pocket guide to over 750 cheeses from around the world. Each cheese has a photo, brief description, and list of wine pairings. You can also add notes to all the cheeses you have tried, or add your own cheeses and photos. If you want to share the joy of cheese with all your friends, there's a handy option to email-a-cheese. It's fun and useful, and costs $2.99.

Fromage at the App Store

Cheese On the Horizon... Plus, Fontina

2010-03-23T18:05:00.000-07:00

I'm in a celebratory mood, so I bought myself a present: The "Exotic & Rare" cheese collection from ArtisanalCheese.com. I had a terrible time picking out a gift for myself on that site. It reminded me of when I was little and my mom would take me to Toys 'R' Us. As soon as I entered the Barbie aisle, I began to suffer sensory + greed overload and usually had a nervous breakdown because I wanted all of the Barbies in the store and - well, you know how that goes. I feel that way about gourmet cheese shopping now. No wonder I was thinner as a child...

My Exotic & Rare (i.e. probably very stinky) cheeses should arrive later this week. I am very excited, and hungry. Maybe there will be a yak cheese in there? Oh, I dare to dream! Stay tuned for in-depth blogging once cheese is consumed.

And finally, I ate some delicious Fontina cheese over the weekend. You've probably tried Fontina, but maybe it hasn't made a lasting impression on you yet. I know it didn't on me, because I couldn't exactly remember what it tasted like until I bought some a few days ago.

I have to say, I think everyone should eat Fontina on at least a semi-regular basis. It's mild and nutty, as many cheeses are, but what I think sets it apart is its springy, kind-of-soft, melt-in-your-mouth texture. It melts really well - I recommend using it in grilled cheese. Or on pizza, or by itself or with fruit, nuts, olives etc. Yep, it's versatile. I do love a versatile cheese.

(Fontina Rating) 3 out of 5 stars

Cheese News

2010-03-03T12:08:00.000-08:00

For anyone out there who might actually read this blog, I know my cheese posts have been nonexistent lately. I haven't really been trying any new cheeses. I plan on delving into my memory and reviewing cheeses I've eaten in the past, but for now, here is some interesting cheese news for you:

Yak Cheese: Exotic, But Healthy?

It doesn't surprise me a bit that yak cheese could be healthier than cow cheese. It just sounds right, doesn't it? I'd love to try yak cheese sometime. If anyone knows where I can find some, let me know!

Reggianito

2010-02-10T13:36:00.000-08:00

Reggianito at Cheese.com

You know Parmigiano Reggiano, yes? Reggianito is its Argentinian cousin. Its name is a diminutive of the original, because it is made in smaller (much smaller) wheels. The story of Reggianito is simple: From what I have read, Italians living in Argentina invented it in an attempt to recreate the magic of one of their homeland's greatest cheeses.

They did succeed, I think - and Italy must have thought so too, since after World War I, they made some regulatory moves to prevent Reggianito from replacing their famous cheese in the hearts and pantries of pasta-loving cooks everywhere. (Reggianito on Wikipedia)

If you're interested in some more cheese history, further info about the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium can be found here.

And now, on to the eating of the cheese. Reggianito is very similar to Parmigiano Reggiano, very similar indeed. The taste is a bit saltier and a bit milder, which I like very much. The texture, while hard, has more give to it than the Parmigiano as well. Due to its milder flavor, I feel it is a more versatile cheese than Parmigiano, and could be used in many different food applications - even sandwiches. Of course, on pasta it is divine.

I won't say that Reggianito has replaced Parmigiano Reggiano in my heart and pantry, for P.R. is much harder and therefore easier to grate finely upon a pasta, pizza, etc. But where flavor is concerned, I think the diminutive Argentinian cousin is a clear winner. Give it a try sometime.

RATING: 4 out of 5 stars

VOD Gourmet Maple Blue

2009-12-27T20:05:00.000-08:00

Recently I shared my thoughts on VOD Gourmet's Whiskey Blue cheese. While I wasn't too fond of the cheese, I was impressed by the idea, so I went back for more in the form of VOD Maple Blue.

http://www.vodkacheese.com/wisconsincheeses.html

Rich blue cheese paired with sweet maple syrup; it sounds promising, no? Unfortunately I found it similar to Whiskey Blue in that it was just too strong. The maple, rather than being a delicate kiss, is a salacious grope, hitting your mouth and throat in full force, as if you were eating a stack of pancakes rather than sampling a subtle gourmet cheese.

I give it two stars for overwhelming me with maple-y sweetness, but I can see potential for Maple Blue in cooking and/or salads/salad dressings.

RATING: 2 out of 5 stars

Sage Derby

2009-12-21T22:20:00.000-08:00

Like a froggy, ferny cabbage, Sage Derby is unnaturally...

Sage Derby is an English cheese that originated in the seventeenth century. It is flavored with sage, as its name and appearance might suggest. It has quite a striking look and bright color to it - if you haven't seen it in person before, it's much brighter than the picture above shows.

But the important thing is, how does it taste? In my opinion, only so-so. The thing is, there's only so much sage I can take in my cheese. I had thought that Grafton Village Sage Cheddar was extremely sage-y, but I didn't know from sage-y until I tried Sage Derby. It crosses the line from sage-y all the way into minty, which, I think, is bad. It has the flavor of a minty herbal tincture more than anything else.

It settles down a bit when you eat it with strong accompaniments, like salty meats for example, but I still found myself thinking that it was nicer to look at than to taste. If you're okay with idea of a minty cheese, though, you might want to give Sage Derby a try.

Rating: 2 out of 5 stars

Cypress Grove Chevre: Purple Haze

2009-12-07T12:40:00.000-08:00

Purple Haze at the Cypress Grove Website

Purple Haze is a fresh goat cheese flavored with Lavender and Fennel Pollen. Now generally speaking, I don't like things that are flavored with Lavender. Lavender is a soap-category herb, for me. I always feel like I'm eating soap.

This fantastic little goaty cheese certainly changed my mind where Lavender is concerned. The flavor is absolutely divine. Slightly otherworldly, even. The mixture of lavender, fennel pollen and fresh, creamy, tangy, sweet goat cheese cannot even be properly described until you taste it, so go and taste it and then get back to me. It's like goat cheese that has been sprinkled with magic fairy dust, by a real live fairy. Dark and mysterious, yet fresh, bright, and sparkly - all at once!

Purple Haze will naturally make you think of using it in a salad, but I think it can really be used anywhere and everywhere you would use a goat cheese. Salad, cheese plate, pizza, pasta, you name it, this cheese will take it to the next level.

RATING: 5 out of 5 stars

Etorki

2009-12-07T12:33:00.000-08:00

Etorki at the Food Network Store

"Etorki", the name, apparently comes from the Basque word for "origin". I think it would make a good name for a sheep. Perhaps Etorki was the name of the very first sheep whose milk was used to make Etorki cheese. But I digress.

Etorki is a sheep's milk cheese, and quite a fine one at that. It is new, having been invented in the 1970s. Its flavor is somewhat similar to a nutty Spanish cheese, like an Iberico for example, but the texture is semi-soft, creamy and buttery. It also has not a small amount of that elusive flavor component that I like to call "sheepiness". And the only way to experience sheepiness, aside from drinking sheep's milk, is to eat a sheep's cheese.

There is a bit of sweetness in this cheese, and also a grassy, fresh, flowery sunny taste that will make you feel like you've landed in a meadow in springtime. Surrounded by cute little sheep named Etorki.

It's another versatile cheese that will make you happy on a cheese plate, or in your cooking, but it is rich and shouldn't be overused.

RATING: 4 out of 5 stars

Sottocenere

2009-12-07T12:24:00.000-08:00

Sottocenere at Cowgirl Creamery's Library of Cheese

You really can't go wrong by adding truffles to cheese. They are the perfect pair and will shine no matter what you do with them. That said, there are several varieties of truffled cheese out there and they do have some differences between them.

Sottocenere is a new cheese. It was invented about eight years ago by some guy in Venice who decided that truffles and cheese might age together beautifully when preserved in ash. (And that's what "sottocenere" means, apparently - "under the ash".)

He was right. Sottocenere is a lovely cheese. The truffle flavor is stronger than some other truffle cheeses I've tried, but not so rich as to overwhelm you. The cheese is both laden with truffle bits AND rubbed with truffle oil, talk about your dream come true, right? It also has a hint of spiciness that I cannot quite trace, but I'm assuming it comes from the ash coating, which is infused with various herbs and spices.

All in all, this is by far the best truffled cheese I have ever tasted. It also melts beautifully and therefore would make a flashy addition to your next brunch.

RATING: 4 out of 5 stars

Alouette Hickory Smoked Baby Brie

2009-11-30T12:40:00.000-08:00

Alouette Hickory Smoked Baby Brie

Alouette is the French word for a Skylark. A Skylark is a cute little bird; Alouette makes cute little cheeses. I guess it works.

I have never been a huge fan of Alouette Brie, as it never seems to age to that perfect gooey consistency that I expect of my softer French cheeses. It works fine in a pinch, though. Now, smoked brie, though? This is another issue entirely.

I had never tried smoked brie before. What could possibly be the point? The beauty of a brie lies in its simplicity, its mildness, its innocent maiden-like charm that conceals a richness so deep that it needs no accompaniment. Remember the scene in Twin Peaks when Jerry and Ben Horne nearly go mad over the beautiful simplicity of brie and butter, spread on a baguette? That is the magic of this cheese. To cover it in hickory smoke seems, well.... misguided.

And after tasting it, I believe it really is. The smoking does nothing to the brie except add a slight harshness to its aftertaste, and a slight firmness to its texture. The last thing a brie needs is to be firmer, even if this is a "baby" brie. It wasn't terrible, but it wasn't good either.

If you really must add some sort of pizazz to your brie for your next party, such as baking it en croute or some such thing, I merely entreat you to keep it as simple as possible. The best bries need no help being delicious.

Rating: 2 out of 5 stars

Yancey's Fancy Fire Roasted Tomato Cheddar

2009-11-30T12:34:00.000-08:00

Yancey's Fancy Flavored Cheeses

Yancey's Fancy Fire Roasted Tomato Cheddar is a mild but robust cheddar chock-full of red, smoky, flavorful tomatoes. This cheese surprised me - I wasn't really expecting much of it, but it really is very flavorful and rich. The tomato flavor is perfect - not too smoky or tangy, just warm and tomatoey enough to really enhance the cheddar experience. I plated it with some cured meats and banana peppers, it was a winning combination.

I can think of some other cool uses for this cheese, too - try melting it all down with refried beans and peppers and a bit of salsa in a crockpot for a killer dip. Or use it to make nachos, or throw it on a pizza crust for your next homemade pizza. This is a great party cheese.

Rating: 3 out of 5 stars

New Holland Havarti with Dill

2009-11-30T12:07:00.000-08:00

Christmas (or whatever) is coming up, which means it's cheese plate season! My family never had a big Christmas dinner when I was growing up, we just spent the holiday week snacking on cheeses, cured meats, and whatever was around, Roman-style. So for me, the month of December is a non-stop orgy of chips, dips, breads, crackers, and cheese. It's a great time.

My husband and I kicked off cheese plate season last night with a rather lovely assortment, the first of which was New Holland Snacking Havarti with Dill. New Holland doesn't seem to have a web presence, but you can find their "snacking havartis" at most grocery stores. I'm not sure what distinguishes a "snacking havarti" from a full-on "eating havarti", perhaps someone will know the answer. Havarti pretty much always works, though, as a soft, mild cheese that will be palatable to anyone.

The Havarti with Dill was very nice, if you like dill of course. There's quite a bit of dill in it, and it's very spreadable. It goes well with cured meats and any pickle product of your choice - cornichons, chopped dills, pickled onions, et cetera.

Rating: 3 out of 5 stars

Beemster With Mustard

2009-11-22T19:06:00.000-08:00

Beemster with Mustard at the Beemster Website

Beemster is a line of Dutch cheeses, of which I am quite fond. Their cheeses tend to be mild and creamy, yet flavorful and enticing. Beemster with Mustard is no exception.

This is a variety of cheese from Beemster's "Royal Garden Selection", which makes me feel pretty fancy. It's just a nice, creamy, mildly yellow Dutch cheese with a lot of mustard seeds in it. The mustard flavor is not overpowering or out of place, and the seeds give the cheese an extra layer of texture that makes it quite a pleasure to eat.

This is definitely a versatile cheese that would perform wonderfully on a burger, in a grilled cheese sandwich, on a cheese plate, in a salad, I mean wherever really. Nothing goes better with mustard than onions, so if you're cheese plating this one, I recommend surrounding it with some yummy little cocktail onions - or just drinking a Gibson while you eat it.

RATING: 3 out of 5 stars

VOD Gourmet Whiskey Blue

2009-11-22T18:53:00.000-08:00

Whiskey Blue at iGourmet

VOD Gourmet Home Page

VOD Gourmet cheeses are the brainchild of Swedish cheese visionary Ulla Nylin. She decided that it would be a great idea to make Swedish-style cheeses infused with Vodka, and has built her cheese company around that idea. I haven't tried her vodka cheeses but it sounds like a great idea to me.

Nylin expanded the VOD Gourmet line of cheeses to include whiskey- and wine-infused varieties, and that's where VOD Whiskey Blue comes in. It is a very high-quality, strongly flavored blue cheese that has been aged in delicious bourbon.

After my previous success with whiskey cheeses in the form of Kerrygold Aged Cheddar with Irish Whiskey, I was excited to give Whiskey Blue a try. Honestly, it was good enough, but I think that whiskey works MUCH better with cheddar than it does with blue. I got the feeling that two very strong flavors were having it out for domination in my mouth, and it wasn't a cohesive flavor experience at all.

That said, it is a very nice, creamy, strong blue cheese, and the bourbon could be tempered a bit, I think, with the right accompaniments. Any blue cheese goes great with Branston Pickle, I think that and a strong ale (or whiskey, duh) would give you the flavor mix that you deserve from an interesting cheese like this one.

RATING: 2 out of 5 stars

Woolwich Dairy Triple Creme Goat Brie

2009-08-31T16:16:00.000-07:00

http://www.woolwichdairy.com/products.aspx?x=lwikHt29djFe7s8764t6fWk7Zrf%2f1MBI0aMDI11dZ2Y%3d

Soft goat cheese is certainly common enough, but it's not every day that you eat Goat Brie. I love it, and this Woolwich Dairy variety that I picked up the other day was particularly delicious.

Goat Brie is pretty similar to Cow Brie, except that it is a little less rich (even in triple-creme form), and it of course has the distinctive flavor of goat milk that comes with any goat cheese. It adds a subtle interest to the creamy, melty cheese, and is a refreshing alternative to your usual brie experience. I highly recommend it.

RATING: 3 out of 5 stars