tiny girl with big bag

Photo essay: San Isidro and Acasuso

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Tue, 26 Mar 2013 02:00:13 PDT

If we think about Argentina, everyone thinks of Buenos Aires. And not only foreigners see this way, but roughly one quarter of the country concentrates in the capital city. Therefore it is like an owen during summertime, and the porteños can not wait to get out of this concrete jungle for the weekend. Around the city there are many little towns where we can get-away. Like San Isidro and Acasuso.

Farm of Pueyrredon

Ancient trees in the garden of Pueyrredon

Main street of San Isidro

Flee market at the train station of Acasuso

Stand No. 43

River La Plata from Acasuso

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

Long weekend at the Argentine Copacabana - Part 2

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Tue, 19 Mar 2013 02:00:02 PDT

The next morning we drove in the main land, to a little village called Tandil, 170 kilometers away from Mar del Plata. I wanted to see Tandil for two reasons. First of all, because this is a typical town on the Argentine Pampas. Tandil is laying on the sierras of the humid Pampas, and its name in the mapuche language means falling rock.

The mapuche Moving Stone

We can find here the reconstructed copy of that unique moving stone - Piedra Movediza -, which had been balancing long ago on another rock, when it fall down and broke to two parts in 1912. The locals used to put bottles under its base to see them breaking and demonstrate that the stone was moving. One time, however, the stone fall out of its balance because one of the bottles, and fall down. In 2007 a reconstructed copy was collocated to the place of the original, but unfortunately this one does not move.

That is how the moving stone was balancing on the rock for thousands of years

Tandil was populated from 1823 by the Spanish and Italian immigrants, and is still showing the characteristics of the Pampas with its one-stored, colonialist houses. We took a pleasant walk on the cobbled stone streets in the afternoon, when the locals were spending their siesta hidden. We also peeped into that little hut, which used to serve as the resting place of travelers, who were going to the south from Buenos Aires. The authentic building is now a delicacy store, where locals are selling their domestic jams, olive oils, salamis and cheese. I would have loved to spend more time in the cavalcade of savors and smells, but an even bigger temptation was waiting for me.

The smell of the domestic cheese filled the little shop

According to the legend, the famous salami of Tandil is dried with the breeze of the sierras and smells like the Pampas. In Argentina there are only three villages where the salami is celebrated, and one was Tandil.

Mouth-watering salami festival

Being Hungarian, I could not miss this festival. We were waiting for the sunset, when the pieces of salamis and cheese were unloaded on the stands. Hundreds of locals and tourists woke up from the siesta and we sank into the crowd. We hoped to sip in the smell of the countryside and the paprika, which watered our mouth.

We were tasting according to color, shape, smell and size, or just because the seller gave it with a smiling face. Who still had space int he stomach, cold go to the end, where gauchos were preparing the rows of steak and welts.

The wurst and steak is getting ready for the salami festival

The tango of the countryside, the chacarera was played from the background in the coliseum, and I felt like being in the countryside festivals of my childhood. I bought an Argentine hot dog, which was a huge slice of steak inside a bread, which I accompanied with a big mug of local beer. The two-hour long journey back to Mar del Plata flew away fast.

On the last day we tried to think with the head of the porteños, to find out how we could avoid the crowd back to Buenos Aires. We decided to politely let the crowd leave before us, and we stayed for the morning in Mar del Plata. We visited the local aquarium.

Animal show

The aquarium spread the very sympathetic message with the children and their parents, that we can take care of the animals the best if we love them, and we love them the most if we know them. The aim of the aquarium was to get to know the animals, take care of them and protect them. During the show the workers introduced us the everyday life of the animals, and during the show together with the children we were applauding with a big smile if an animal managed to complete an exercise.

Their dream came true

In the afternoon we walked a bit in the port, where we saw the lazy sea lions taking a sunbath in the afternoon sun. I could have stayed on the beach with them, but after the sunset we had to leave for Buenos Aires. We were praying no to get the same crowd with which we arrived. This time the timing was perfect and within four hours we were already in the quiet and sleeping Buenos Aires.

Click here for more pictures.

The original in Hungarian is published here.

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

Long weekend at the Argentine Copacabana - Part 1

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Tue, 12 Mar 2013 04:00:08 PDT

Many people think, that equally to Rio de Janeiro, Buenos Aires has long beaches on the Atlentic coast. True, that the city is at the waterfront, at the golf of the brownly rolling river, the La Plata. But the first real beach on the Atlantic coast can be found 300 kilometres to the south, where the La Plata reaches the ocean. In February, during the long weekend of the carnaval, we also headed for the biggest seaside resort of Argentina, Mar del Plata.

It seems that thousands of porteños - inhabitants of Buenos Aires - had the same idea. Despite we left from the capital in the early morning, we managed to do the 400 kilometres in 12 hours. Spending the whole day in the car, we were laughing on the fact that the porteños travel to Mar del Plata to get rid of the crowded capital, then a few hundred kilometres away they spend the weekend together, again packed. In the evening the Atlantic ocean finally appeared on the horizon, we reached Mar del Plata, and got through the local traffic jam, which reminded us to Buenos Aires.

The beach of Mar del Plata already crowded in the morning

In social realist mood

The main income of Mar del Plata comes from tourism. After its establishment in 1874 it was first dicovered by the nobles. Due to the peronism, which lifted the middle class in the 50s, more and more people could afford spending their holidays here. Trade-unionist hotels appeared one by one along the beach. We also lodged in one of them, which reminded me to the social realist hotels of Hungary with its huge dining halls and minimalist fururniture.

While looking for a tourist map, we discovered the city center the first morning. The fight for the better places on the beach started already in early morning, and soon the whole community was laying under bright and colorful sunshades. Shady parks, stands with chilled drinks, and the monotone singing of the vendors offering corn, all reminded me to the summers at the Hungarian sea, the Balaton.

The center of the city has an L shape along the bay, where the seaside promenade is opened by two huge sea lion sculptures to the two directions. Behind the promenade many hotels and restaurants are waiting for the public. The big sensation of the city was the Libertad frigate, which was waiting for long weeks at the coast of Ghana, waiting for the ransom from the Argentine government. Its return to the home country was celebrated with huge hype, and now everyone wanted to touch this modern heroe. People were queuing in front the whole day to get on the deck.

We sat in the car, and getting rid of the crowd of Mar del Plata, we drove to the north, to the seaside villages. These villages, Mar Chiquita, Mar de las Pampas, Villa Gesell and Carilo were built on sand dunes on the seaside.

The wind frightened a lot of tourists from Mar Chiquita

Underneath the settled pine trees, English style aristocratic villas were hiding. While Mar del Plata is serving the needs of the middle class, these little villages are more prepared for the upper class. Many luxury cars were waiting in the parking slot, while their owners spent time in the open-air shopping malls.

Mush-ice of the lovers

We went to the beach in Mar de las Pampas to dip in the water. Finally we only dipped our feet, because the water was cool. We rather sat on our towel, watching the brave windsurfers a little farther.

When reading about the Argentine beach in the Lonely Planet, many traveller suggested not to be surprised if the Argentines will be running around and will sweep the sand into our eyes without turning a hair. It was true, after a while our conversation became cracky because of the sand stuck in between our teeth. The weather is also windy around Mar del Plata, therefore I only managed to shake out my towel, that some grains landed in the mush-ice of a couple. Fortunately they were occupied with each other.

Mar del Plata is famous for its restaurants offering sea food. In the evening we decided to drive to the best place possible, to a restaurant complex, which was built just in front of the port, waiting for the hungry. We saw here restaurants looking like barks, Spanish seaside bars, seashells and crabs hanging from the walls.

Sea food plate in Chichilo

The first day we chose a classic, called Chichilo, which still had the feeling of a restaurant from the 50s. During the four days we tasted a huge selection of seafoods from polips, fish filled with shrimp, and squids.

In the next part you can read about a gaucho village, a mouth-watering festival, and you can see the animals we met at the seaside.

The original in Hungarian is published here.

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

The Big Blog Exchange Challenge

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Fri, 08 Mar 2013 03:56:10 PST

There is a very sympathetic blogger competition which says that "local knowledge can generate global understanding", and "exchanging cultures can prevent war". 16 bloggers can have the chance to travel to a very different culture from theirs, exchange lives and blogs, and bring their cultures closer to each other.

I created the Tiny Girl With Big Bag to share with you reflections and stories from my travels, through a subjective eye. I have been on four continents and thirty countries, and all these adventures taught me something new. I am constantly working on telling you stories and bringing you far-away cultures.

If you decide to give me the chance to be one of the 16 bloggers who can share their lives and blogs, please do not forget to vote for my blog with your e-mail address HERE.

For more information about the initiative check out the video.

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

Summertime in Mar del Plata and surroundings

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Mon, 25 Feb 2013 19:00:03 PST

In February I checked out the biggest seaside resort of Argentina, Mar del Plata and the surroundings. Mar del Plata is the seventh biggest city of the country, but during summertime the number of its inhabitants bumps up to double, and becomes one of the busiest and craziest city along the Atlantic Ocean. Check out what the Pampa has for you there!

Sunset on the seaside avenue of Mar del Plata

Morning on the beach

A few hours later the beach becomes a colorful resort

On the other side of the bay sea lions are sunbathing quietly

The port is offering fresh sea-food

Their dreams came true in the aquarium

A windy day in Mar Chiquita

How I first saw the sea from Mar de las Pampas

The famous moving rock of Tandil

Memories of a home from the Pampas

The famous cheese of Tandil ripened with the breeze of the mountains

Gauchos preparing the sausage and stake for the Festival of Salami de Tandil

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

Grease-feeling in muu Lechería

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:46:50 PST

The Armenia square is one of the busiest ones in the Palermo neighborhood of Buenos Aires. It is shady with short buildings, and little bars and cafes are waiting for those longing to take a rest. I usually come here in the afternoon or in the evening, when it is not too warm and the lights are turned on. I saw the muu Lechería for the first time at night. It did not really raise my attention, because I could not think of drinking milk at night.

Or at least I thought that in a lechería one can sip milk shakes and can eat porage with milk. On a Sunday in the lunchtime, however, there was no more excuse and we sat in the muu.

What first drew my attention was the decoration, which reminded me to the 50s' of US with all its segments. There were everything from the Grease era from great variety of hamburgers, to milk shakes and waffles. I chose a salmon hamburger with dill sauce, and accompanied it with orange-banana-maracuya turmix. Definitely not a fast-food taste and quality, I can tell.

Orange-banana-maracuya turmix

Salmon hamburger with dill sauce, accompanied by big basket of french fries

muu Lechería
Armenia 1810, Palermo, Buenos Aires
4831-3168

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

My second chance: DF Mexican Restaurant

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:46:37 PST

Throw a stone on me, but I am not much into Mexican kitchen. Maybe, because I have not yet tried a real good one at home. I used to have some hopeful tries, mainly in Budapest, but somehow I was never impressed. A few years ago a friend from Hong Kong commented to me that the Chinese food we eat in Europe has nothing to do with its Chinese counterpart. Hence I got curious that maybe if I try Mexican in South-America, will it take me heaven? So I gave myself a second chance in Argentina.

A few weeks ago I was waiting in a bus stop in the middle of Buenos Aires. When looking aside, I could not believe my eyes. A few meters away way waiting for the same bus Alejandra, an argentine friends of mine, who I met in Hungary. It was totally surreal to see her in the very same bus stop in a large city on the other side of the world. One could see this feeling sitting our our faces. We were quite shocked for a few minutes, but finally on the bus we started a meaning conversation. She told me that a few days ago she celebrated her birthday in the DF Mexican Restaurant, and she highly recommended it.

So that is how it happened, that I also decided to celebrate my birthday in January in DF. It can be found at the riverside of the fancy business quarter, called Puerto Madero. It was already enough to get relaxed with the fresh breeze and the silent whispering of the palm trees, but the restaurant also made everything to get you into the Mexican feeling. Mexican rhythm, sombreros and ponchos on the yellow walls. Soon arrived the inevitable starter, the nacho chips with sauce, whoch was surprisingly good.

With our Colombian waiter we choose quesadilla staffed with shrimp stew. This is a kind of tortilla filled with melted cheese, shrimps and coriander, served with two types of sauce and rice. I love cheese and the soft shrimps, so while dipping the little portions into the sour cream sauce, the Mexican kitchen started to move to the positive side in my imaginary balance.

In order to push that balance more to the positive direction, I added a little dessert on top. It had a very saucy name, called horny caramel. It was a golden pudding made of caramel and mascarpone cheese, scattered with pieces of vanilla and almond, decorated with white chocolate bonbons and nuts around, and served with a cup of coffee.

I am not sure if it made me horny, but I think I will give myself a third chance to go back, for sure.

Starting with nachos

Quesadilla staffed with shrimp stew served with two sauces and rice

Swiss enchilada with sour cream and chicken

The horny caramel

DF Restaurante Mexicano
Olga Cossettini 1611, Puerto Madero
5787-4004

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

Getaway from Buenos Aires: La Plata

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:46:20 PST

When I was planning short getaways from Buenos Aires, La Plata never came up to my mind. Maybe because I did not know anything about this city laying only 60 kilometers away from the capital of Argentina. I even confused it with the famous tourist paradise, Mar del Plata. However, later I found out that while Buenos Aires is the capital of the state, La Plata is the capital of the province of Buenos Aires. I also found out that the third largest neo-gothic church can also be found here, and that the plan of the cemetery is the exact copy of the city. You know, that I like cemeteries. La Plata became an exciting destination, and I could not wait to visit it on one weekend, when the dumfounding things continued.

Our first stop was the center of the city, where there was that certain, huge Cathedral of La Plata. It was easy to find it, the 122 meters tall towers were greeting us from far. Oh, and yes, this huge building, which was built in 1884 based on the cathedrals of Amiens (France) and Colon (Germany), was breathtaking. The construction took more than 100 years, and was finished only in 1999. Another interesting fact about the cathedral is that the surface was not covered, therefore it looks like the brick gothic churches in the Balcan. It was time for christening inside, therefore the huge space inside was loud of the excited parents. The quiet melody of the organ got lost amongst the big walls.

Cathedral of La Plata from the main square

Entrance of the Cathedral

Huge inside space up to 122 meters

Getting out of the cathedral we looked for a touristic map, so we stepped inside the sweet shop bizarrely built underneath the steps of the cathedral. However, the shop was not as bizarre as the map that I was holding in my hands. That is where I first saw La Plata from above. One can best imagine it if we try to think with the head of the founder of La Plata, Dardo Rocha. He might have sat down to his desk in 1880 to establish the capital of the province besides the La Plata river. He sat down with a squared paper, drew the streets along the lines, dropped a park into every sixth crossroad, and linked the four corners of the big tetragon with two diagonals. Probably he got tired of this big work, that he did not want to waste time with thinking of street names, so they are numbered until today. According to the locals it is quite practical, because the street number 2 is logically between the streets number 1 and 3. However these many numbers made me quite confused in the first minutes. Let's imagine the question: Where do you live? On street number 5 under 123, between the streets 39 and 40. Who can memorize that many numbers?

Straights and diagonals continued in the cemetery, and the tombs laying on the little streets formed a little village, it looked very similar to the Recoleta cemetery.

A perfectly planned town

At the corner of the avenue number 15 and 53

The cemetery is planned to the map of the city

Masterpieces

The practicality of the town did not end in the cemetery, but the next station of rationality and functionality was the Argentine Theater. We were lucky, as a free guided tour had just kicked off to guide us behind the scenes. The building was not very appealing from outside with its concrete walls, but inside it was full of with interesting stories. Since every important town had its theater, the capital of the province could not be an exception either, therefore the wealthier class of La Plata bought a lot in the center and built up the Argentine Theater in 1890. It was built in neo-classical style, according to the current trends, and had separate entrance for the different social classes, also following the trends. Because of a warm reflector the theater burn down in 1977, and the building could not be saved. A new style, the brutalist was chosen for the new building. This style does not cover the concrete, and with its huge windows it connects the inside and outside spaces. The theater had many functional halls, the biggest was able to host 2000 visitors, equipped with the most modern technology for the best acoustics: walls absorbing the echo, and seats balancing the sound irrespectively of the number of people inside the hall.

We also peeped behind the scenes, where we could see how the decoration was made, moved and prepared. The specialty of the Argentine Theater is that they do not outsource the preparation of decoration, but prepare everything there from the costumes and wig, till the scenery. The only person hired from outside was the scenery designer for a new piece.

The Argentine Theater from outside is not so appealing

The modern, main hall can host 2000 visitors

Scenery behind the scenes

La Plata is different from Buenos Aires in many ways. With its 500.000 inhabitants it is a smaller town compared to the nearby capital. But it is also greener with its parks and forests. The cathedral and the municipality are more precious than the ones in Buenos Aires. However, by the end of the day I saw numbers, straights and perpendiculars, which made the trees as mathematical sequences along the road. It was quite a surreal view for someone used to circle boulevards. But I still want to go back to check out the floating coliseum and the view from the top of the cathedral, and hopefully it will be a strictly number-less tour!

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

Murder in the botanical garden

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:46:04 PST

Spring is the best time for a walk in the flourishing parks. But guided tour in a botanical garden? What can one tell besides introducing the bushes and trees? - I was asking myself. However, later it turned out that our tour guide, Victor, a fanatic biologist and microscope fun had humor, and during the two hours we heard about a lot of stories, and also found out about a mysterious murder.

The botanical garden can be found in the Palermo neighborhood besides the city zoo. Its official name is Carlos Thays Botanical Garden, which it received after the founder. Based on the works of Thays, the 7-hectar garden opened its doors first in 1898, and as normal, it was declared to be National Heritage in 1996. Currently in the garden there are 5,500 species of plants, and an approximately similar number of cats, as this place is the meeting point of those trying to get rid of their pets and those, who feel like feeding such creatures in their free time.

We saw Roman, French and oriental type of gardens with its typical flora. As Thays used to say a botanical garden is an open-air museum of species, and accordingly we saw here corners for pine trees, cactuses, palm trees and ferns.

Interestingly, the park has a corner for blind people, where they can touch the plants, and based on some characteristics they can find out about their family. Victor told us, that despite of their cheeky attitude they did not plant cactuses in here. But out of that we saw evergreen bushes which we can find in the big gardens of palaces; we saw plants without leaves or flowers and fruits capable of reproduction; plants which were used for narcotizing by Indian shamans. We also brought one.

This lantana camara has flowers and fruits at the same time

Our tour guide talks about the grasses with great emphatize

The water lily is the inevitable accessory of the French garden

Besides touching the leaves, we also heard about the giant trees and the law of the jungle. What does a tree do to reach the sun? It has three options: either it grows high, or it grows huge leaves on the ground level to catch as many sunbeams as possible, or lastly it changes its color to yellow or white, which does not need a lot of sunshine. Still, every plant is very thankful if an older tree falls, because then the way is free for the younger generations. That is also another strong law of the jungle that the elder trees have to die, which the younger ones try to supper in all possible ways.

We were also witnesses of such murder. The seed of our good friend, a ficus settled on the trunk of a palm tree and slowly started to grow its roots. Extenuating circumstance that the ficus is not a parasite, because it did not dig the roots into the trunk of the palm tree, but was growing them trying to reach the ground. It was growing slowly for ages when finally the roots hit the ground. The fraud just came now, because when the ficus got stronger and the roots got thicker, they suffocated the trunk of the palm tree. Today we only saw the rotten memories of the palm tree amongst the strong roots of the ficus.

So this is how it happened that during the two hours we walked around in the park, we got to know the names and shapes of the plants, we listened to their stories and how they effected the culture of the humanity. We had some biology, history, humor and excitement not only for plant and cat enthusiasts.

Would you think that this is actually a baby palm tree

The spot, where the ficus killed the palm tree with its roots

The witnesses were watching the murder from the glasshouse

Carlos Thays Botanical Garden
Av. Santa Fe 3951, Buenos Aires
+54 11 4831-4527
Free guided tours: Sat, Sun and holidays - 10:30 and 15:00

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

The horse does not stand the smell of poverty

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:45:46 PST

While the Argentine middle-class is hitting the pots on the streets against the politics of the government, the elite spends the time somewhere else. The polo in Argentina is much more than sport: it is a lifestyle and social status.

Based on its territory, Argentina is the eighth largest country in the world. It is part of the G20, so is one of the wealthiest countries. Despite of the fact that the country has all the conditions to become a stable state, its economy is wobbling constantly. Though it started to increase after the 2001 state bankrupcy, in 2012 we can hear about bankrupcy-like situation again. The population feels the public dept redemption through increasing inflation and mothly expenses, the restriction to dollar, and the import limitations.

Let's get the pans!

After a new restrictions the Argentine people post a note on the nearby bus stop inviting neighbors to the manifestation the next day. Those interested should come and cordon the avenue. An experienced local already calculates around 30 minutes in the travel time, because one can never know where is the next manifestation in Buenos Aires.

One of the biggest from last year's manifestation was the N8, which took place on 8th November 2012. Many hundred thousands of people went to the streets beating the pans - like in 2001 - protesting agains the corruption and the politics of the government.

Tired of corruption

I could not miss this event. Even though I was not in the center of the manifestation, in the downtown, people were beating pans in every neighborhood, and the noise was luring me down to the street. Locals closed one of the crossroads in the late afternoon, and were singing peacefully, beating pans till late at night. The drivers were solidar and patience, and the pans and horns were singing the same rythm.

A solid nodding to the neighbor

While the middle-class and the poor spend their evenings on the streets manifesting, the upper 10,000 meet at other time at a different place. As if they did not even live in this world, but would be watching the happenings from above. They are the polo society of Argentina, who use the tournaments to show themselves for the audience. Since it symbolizes careless life, polo gets high publicity. Of course, nothing can surpass football, but the sport has a small portion here.

Almost exactly two weeks after the N8 national demonstrations started the Argentine Polo Open Championship tournament, which I also visited. It was a beautiful, sunny Saturday afternoon. I managed to find some accessories from the latest fashion taking care not to be over- or underdressed. That day had two matches scheduled, so I had time to learn the rules. I was seated at the right corner of the bleacher. Not much later a young couple sat besides me. Small nodding from both sides, and I almost heard the gears in the head: who can I be, where do I belong to?

The Alegría and Dolfina players are chasing the ball entertaining the audience

The match kicked off, and the 4-4 players of Alegría and Dolfina fighted against each other. The earth was lumbring under the heels, lumps were flying, rockets were smacking. Because of the quickly changing happenings, I enjoyed how the players and horses worked together in harmony.

Contrary to football, in polo not the players are changed during the match, but the horses. A player can have around ten horses, of course the best and most expensive ones. The animals have a whole group of staff, who is responsible to warm them up and help with the quick change.

When a horse is injured, it generates bigger emotions than if it had happened to an average player: whose stomach would not be clutched with the image of a falling, slipping horse, or worse, if a rocket hits them? The audience screams of pain, and the horse-doctor arrives to the field to take away the limping animal. I must admit, I also got frightened when one of the horses somersaulted, but luckily neither the horse, nor the player got injured seriously.

The match is paused while the injured "player" is taken off the field

During the break the players are resting in the tents on the two contrary sides of the field. In the halftime the audience attacks the tents to see their favorites, and if the lucky ones can even touch them or go home with a photo with their loved players. Before the main match would have kicked off, I was already a Adolfo Cambiaso fan, without even knowing him. He is considered to be the best in the world. At the moment there are only ten players in the world with the highest ranking, and of course, all of them is Argentine. That is why Argentina is often called as the paradise of polo. Finally, out of a helmet and a white polo shirt I did not see more from Cambiasso, but of course I also gave him a good hand when he scored a goal. My neighbours also supported Cambiasso's team, and we we shocked together when an opponent player caught the ball from him unfairly.

The Argentine dream

After the game I was thinking what the secret could be behind the huge popularity and media turnout of the polo. I even thought that it was maybe the horses and the sport itself. I try to be benevolent, but following a little ball on a field of 274 x 182 meters (300 x 160 yards) is quite difficult particularly if the direction of attacks changes all the time. However, the applause and the shouting on the bleachers showed that some managed to follow the little ball.

This small ball has to be followed during the match

The key to the success is that the polo players embody the luxury lifestyle: everyone would like to get close to them, be a little like them. The society is curious about them and about all the events around them. As locals say, there are two types of people: the Argentine and the Argentine, who is inside the polo circle. The polo tournaments are social events, where the cream of the cream gathers together to show themselves posing with the horses instead of the red carpet. Once I heard this snappy saying: the horse does not stand the smell of poverty.

Since the players are rarely injured and stay on the field the whole time, therefore they are like riding Gods. There is a big cult around them, they are the celebrities of our everyday life, who are sporty, successful, wealthy, handsome, has hell expensive horses, and they forgivingly let us adore them.

After the match the celebration continues under the bleachers in Chandon Bar

The polo is a lifestyle and social status: it has its own fashion, newspaper, VIP events, and of course, luxury is all around. In the emblematic fashion shop of the polo, the La Martina, suntanned Argentine boys offer clothing. In fashion the absolute crucial accessories are the Argentine leather bags, the moccasins, the cowboy hat and cashmere scarf, but the luxury global brands are also permitted.

The polo embodies the Argentine dream. Until the country is getting stronger, and the economy is weltering, the society will need these everyday Gods to give hope and let them forget about the difficulties. If the country finally recovers, hopefully the audience will also pay attention to the ball, the horses and the sport itself.

What connects Argentine people

After all there is something common in the manifesting middle-class and the polo society. This is the Falkland Islands, or Las Malvinas: after mentioning this name, the eyebrow of both groups starts to move. Losing this territory is a painful momentum for all Argentines, regardless of the social level. I also had to learn that here I should call the island Las Malvinas, and I should better not start a conversation about the United Kingdom.

The original in Hungarian is published here.

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

We peeped into the volcano

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 06 Jan 2013 06:18:21 PST

I have been working in Manila, the Philippines already for a few weeks, when with my colleagues on one of the weekends we managed to organize a trip to the lowest active volcano of the world, the Taal, which is only 50 km south from the capital, in a relatively highly populated area, the Batangas. The timing was exciting, because increased volcanic activities were measured during those days.

The Philippines lays on the western part of a fire ring, which is running around the coastline of the Pacific Ocean. 75% of the active volcanos and the majority of the earthquakes can be found on this ring. One of the most interesting active volcanos of the world is the Taal, a volcano complex, which has two rings because of multiple explosions, and the crater is filled with water.

This is the view on Taal volcano from the cliffs of Tagaytay

Organizing the journey seemed to be easy, until I started it. If a European toursist would not like to use tour agencies, which usually apply Western prices, then either we can use public transportation or rent a car. Our local friends talked us off from public transportation, because they circulate differently from what we were used to. Renting a car is not easy either if we consider the local driving habits, where keeping in line is not common, and where daily car accidents are usual. Finally we rented a van with a choffeur, and the tour kicked off on a Sunday morning. It was the first time that we got out of noisy and dusty Manila, and it was a true relief to see green palm forests. After one hour driving, we finally saw the lake and the Taal volcano from the cliffs of Tagaytay. The active volcano lays in a caldera with an average diamater of 15 km. This is filled with water, and in the middle of it emerges the volcano-island with a diameter of 5 km.

Prohibitions do not work

From the cliffs we drove down to the shore of the lake, where our next project was to pick a finishing boat with a fisherman and a good price. After a short bargain and a satisfied hand shake, our finishing boat departed. This boat was already a great experience, until now I only saw them on pictures. The narrow hulk of the bangka was kept in balance with wooden poles on the sides, like a hidroplane.

We traveled with these bangka boats

As soon as the inhabitants of the volcanic island saw the approaching boat full of with tourists, they ran to help us get out, and lead us in a shady place where they offered drinks and souvenirs. Despite the fact that the Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology, the PHILVOLCS marked the island dangerous, and prohibits to settle down here, there are many poor families living on the land, who make their living from fishing, cultivating the good quality volcanic soil, and tourism. Such touristic service, for example, that the visitors are taken up to the cliffs of the volcano by horse. Because of the heat and the 'I-rode-up-by-horse' feeling, we could not miss this opportunity.

Riding up on the hill with my guide, Carlos

Everyone got a horse and a guide behind the back to share the saddle. While my guide, Carlos, drove the horse he told me that they do not care about the prohibitions and they are not afraid of an erruption. What is more, they have a mission, which is protecting the Goddess of the volcano from the bad vibes.

The Goddess is unquiet

There is a lot to protect, because the Taal is one of the most active volcanos of the Philippines, though the Goddess has been sleeping for almost 30 years. Since the 16th century the volcano had more than 30 erruptions. One of them happened in 1911, which took the lives of 2000 habitants. That is also the date when the little lake in the middle was born. According to earlier records, the erruption could be heard from 1000 km, and the ash clouds were visible also from Manila. After this the activitiy of the volcano changed radically, and during the next erruption in 1965 the ask clouds did not only sperad upwards but also sidelong, which meant another 200 victims. Till 1977 some firework-type lava erruptions followed, then the volcano fall asleep. A few days before our visit, however, the PHILVOLCS raised the alarm level to 2, because the temperature of the inner lake and the quantity of the carbon-dioxide effusion increased, which meant the rising of magma.

Releasing steam heated the air

I did not see the signs of anxiety on Carlos, so I kept listening to his stories. During our tour we passed by their village, where I saw some wooden huts. Carlos showed me one by one his family: that was his wife, and the other was his cousin. In a little while I was not able to follow the family tree, because everyone connected to someone someway. Of course, I bought a bottle of water for Carlos from his wife, which, as he said, he will not drink, but will again offer to the next tourist to buy. We went on leaving the family behind. While slaloming up in the steep and dry pit, Carlos started to talk about the work affairs. He told me that every member of the family does something. The youngsters, like him, is in charge of the horses, the women sell drinks and souvenirs or cultivate the soil, and the men do fishing in the outside lake.

Boys saddling the horses waiting for the next tourists

Arriving to the top we left the sweaty horses and ran to the fence which surrounded the inner crater. We had a breathtaking view over the bubbling lake, the crater and the outside lake. Steam was leaving constantly from the rocks around, which increased the felt air temperature. When we spent enough time delectating the panorama, we went to look for tailing paps, where the steam released. After a successful mission we were waving for the rest of the group about the discovery. During the one hour spent on the volcano I never felt in danger. The place looked very calm, so it was difficult to imagine those huge forces hiding underneath the quiet lake.

View on the inner lake, on the left releasing carbon-dioxide stirs up the water

We left late in the afternoon. I said good-bye to Carlos, who answered to my silly questions all the way down from the hill. We crossed the water again with our fishing boat, and drove back to the loud capital. The boiling volcano stayed calm this time, we were only burned by the sun. We could get off with it, wishing the same to the next visitors and the inhabitants.

The original in Hungarian is published here.

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

My Best 10 Travels in 2012

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:45:03 PST

When it is year end, with my friends we look back in the year behind us. Our mouths fall and we shout with a surprised face: "Oh My Gosh, so many things happened to us! What a year!" It is amazing while we are walking on the imaginary string of the year from the start to the end, and how we shout out one by one the stories. "And do you remember when we did this?", "Yeah, it was loads of fun! And when we went there?" And we can keep telling out the anecdotes for long minutes, jumping between the months and seasons, being in a nostalgic mood. Just like now I am. So let me jump through 2012 and show you my most memorable travels in 2012!

1. The most historical travel - Rome, Italy (April 2012)

Before the high season, when the tickets are still low we decided to spend a long weekend in Rome after Easter. We did not only visit the historical places, like the Colosseum, the Pantheon or the Vatican, but also dipped into the culinary world of the Italian capital, and tried out a great variety of pizzas, pastas, ice-creams and wines. Yummeee!

2. The driest travel - Atacama desert, Chile (May 2012)

For one month I was working only a stone's throw from the driest desert of the planet. So why not visit it and see the dead lands where NASA is testing the Mars orbiters, the salty and extremely still lagoons, and the geysers of this breathtaking land. It was truly a lifelong experience.

3. The highest travel - Potosi, Bolivia (June 2012)

One of the highest cities of the world at an elevation of 4,090 meters! I could not miss it. And I am happy I did not. This colonial town is a gem in the mountains with an exciting history, and a sad mining fate, which I experienced on my own climbing down in an active, dirty-dusty-dark silver mine.

4. The saltiest travel - Uyuni, Bolivia (June 2012)

What I remember from this three-day tour is the beautiful, ever-changing and untouched landscapes, the constant cold and wind, the snow-flakes and salt-flakes, the flamingos and a funny and great company, seven strangers from seven different places squeezed into a Jeep like herrings, big laughters, Annie's first meeting with the snow, and a sad farewell.

5. The craziest travel - Zamárdi, Hungary (July 2012)

If July, then Balaton Sound, the biggest electronic festival of Central-Europe at the Lake of Balaton. Sunshine, water, music and beer. There is no better start for a crazy long weekend where prepare make-up in the car, eat lángos, jump for music with thousands of strangers, chill out at the Balaton sunrise and we sleep in the grass.

6. The best friends' travel - Salzburg, Austria (Aug 2012)

For long-long years every summer with five friends from college we pick a new destination, get into the cars and discover the place. This summer we picked the Salzburg region of Austria, where we spent almost a week. I am honest if I say that I fall in love with this land. Green fields, snow-capped mountains, tricky fountains, castles, Salzburg and friendly people. When people travel together, it requires huge organization when to eat, when to have a break, when to visit washrooms, as of course, everyone has a different needs. But we know each other by heart, thanks God! :)

7. The most fabled travel - Hallstatt, Austria (Aug 2012)

This UNESCO site was one of the cutest, loveliest, fable place we visited in Austria this summer. No wonder that China copied this village for their people far-far away. Walking on the cobbled streets among the tiny, colorful, wooden houses at the bank of the lake took us back to the times when Hallstatt was one of the busiest salt trader towns.

8. The longest travel - Buenos Aires, Argentina (Sep 2012)

Hard decision, but in September I moved from Hungary to Argentina and I am currently staying here. I learned that in our lives there is a point when we want a change. So I made a decision, packed my suitcase and took a flight to Buenos Aires. Career break? Long vacation? New life? I do not exactly know yet, but it is December, and I am enjoying my second summer this year, with a big smile on my face.

9. The best solo travel - Santiago de Chile, Chile (Oct 2012)

Why I love to travel alone? Because it gives me the chance to meet locals and other travelers, and I can get to know other cultures better through their eyes. I picked Santiago, because it was close and because it was recommended by the New York Times as a top destination. This was the first time I tried CouchSurfing, and so I met wonderful Chilean people, went to crazy parties, discovered Santiago with locals, and survived an earthquake. I still save good memories about this sparkling city.

10. The most colorful travel - Valparaíso, Chile (Oct 2012)

An absolute positive surprise! It started with two consequently raining days, a little sickness, but despite of all this, on the third day finally the city, declared as a UNESCO site, showed its face, which was extremely bohemian, colorful, humorous and full of with hidden stories. I will never forget that old lady on top of a hill. She was looking down on the valley, pointed on to a red house and told me that this beautiful, bright one was her home for forty years. I saw that sparkling pride in her eyes as she pointed there. Then we watched the sunset together, silently.

Regrets? None! Resolutions? Loads! I wish you a Very Happy 2013 and more travels for the new year! :)

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

Big Christmas Culinary World Tour

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:44:04 PST

We long for it. We wait for it. We talk about it. Then we feel guilty when we enjoy it. This is the Christmas food, a special and delicious food which millions of people enjoy on a special day. Forget about counting the kilos, and let your senses enjoy this Christmas culinary world tour prepared for your taste, hosted by my friends from all over the world. Enjoy! :)

Ayn, blogger Nurse-issistic Travels, The Philippines

Philippines is a country molded from different influences from Spanish to American or Japanese. All those years of foreign occupation made our culture seem like a mix of countries. Look no further than a Filipino's dining table. Our menus would have a scoop of Chinese, a teaspoon of American and a pinch of European, but of course it is 100% Filipino.
Exactly at midnight on the 25th of December the whole family gathers around the table for a “Noche Buena” (Christmas Eve feast). The menu would usually include sweet ham, fruits and noodles (pancit) among others. We are Asians, and Asians love rice. So also expect a lot of dishes with rice as an ingredient. Oh, and by the way, I am “Cebuano”, I live on an island right in the middle of the Philippines, and we have typical dishes which you will not find at other parts of the country. Here are the typical ones. Puto is sticky rice cooked with coconut milk, a little sugar and ginger, always served with hot chocolate (sikwate) and sweet ripe mangoes. Bud-bud – Again, cooked with sticky rice, coconut milk, sugar and a little salt and wrapped in banana leaves, served with hot chocolate and mango. Keso or Keseo comes from the spanish word “Queso” which means cheese. Here in Cebu, Keso can only mean 1 thing, cheese made from salted water buffalo milk. It is salty and a bit sour with the consistency of cream cheese. You can eat it straight up, with rice or even use it as a spread for your bread. Either way, you'll love it! The difference between Keso and Keseo is that you can fry the Keseo whereas frying will melt the Keso but out of the banana-leaf packaging, they look exactly alike. Maayo'ng Pasko! (Merry Christmas)

.
.
Nora, flight attendant in UAE, South-Africa

Christmas in South-Africa is a little different from the majority of the countries, as it is part of the summer holiday. On the 24th of December people gather together around 8pm and the start to celebrate the birth of Jesus. Because of the warm weather Christmas dinners are being prepared in front of the houses in open-air. The South-African kitchen is traditionally very similar to the British, which means roast turkey, lamb or beef with gravy potatoes and vegetables. The desert is malva or plum pudding. In the hot weather ice-cream can also be served.

Andrew, accountant, Egypt

In Egypt Christians are Coptic Orthodox. We start fasting on the 7th of November, 45 days before Christmas. This means that we cannot eat anything that has to do with animals such as milk, yogurt, eggs, cheese, pork, chicken, butter, and of course we cannot eat meat. Fish and sea food, however, are allowed. So basically we eat everything using oil. We end fasting on the 6th of January with a mass, that starts at 7pm and ends at 12am. We can only eat after the mass, and when all the family gathers in the house of the grandfather (usually father's father).
Very typical food on Christmas Eve - after the mass - is fried poached eggs, Fatta (it’s a mix of rice, local bread, garlic, chicken soap), stew meat, ribs, Kofta (type of meat that is a mix of minced meat with onion and spices) and stuffed grape leaves. To drink we consume all the time red wine. Then comes the dessert that can be a cake. Then on Christmas day, the 7th of January, we have a hell of a lunch, preparing more typical kinds of food, the Molokheya (which is a type of vegetables which we cut into tiny pieces and we make a soup using the soup of chicken or meat), rice, fried chicken or a turkey, steaks and types of pasta like canelones. As for dessert we eat eastern sweets. Not to freak you out this food usually lasts for 3 days because it is impossible to finish it in one day :)

.
Ele, blogger Kūtvėlos kelionės ir klajonės, Lithuania

In Lithuania we have 12 dishes for Christmas. Some say it’s for 12 apostles, some say it’s for 12 months, but nobody knows for sure. We also have a tradition of putting hay under the table-cloth. This represents the fact that Jesus was born in the cattle-shed. Before the meal people draw one stick of hay. The one with the shortest stick is going to die next. Needless to say, this tradition is dying in the modern day, being the one with the shortest stick of hay is not cool. And 12 dishes do not just mean we have a good appetite (though we do, we do!). They come after a long period of Lent. It’s a time people have to abstain from pleasures like food and fun and to prepare spiritually for the birth of the Saviour, and at the end of this period of being serious in work and food people are really hungry (I mean those who observe the Lent, of course). However, certain countries could indulge in seafood during the Lent because this was not the forbidden food from meat. In Poland, they would even proclaim beaver to be fish and eat it. Fact. Well, it can swim, right? Definitely fish. Good news is drink also counts as food.
There are no fixed rules as what dishes should be present on the Christmas table and it can be region specific but my Mom makes (or has me and my sister help make it, rather, because this isn’t a job for a single person) a couple of salads, herring, a couple of cold fish dishes, different pickles, meat in the jelly, and bakes a piece of white bread. We usually have duck as the main meal the other day. But the one food that is traditional and must be present on the table is “kūčiukai“. „Kūčios“ means Christmas Eve in Lithuanian. These are small roundish oven-baked pieces made from yeast dough, sometimes with poppy seed, that are traditionally eaten with milk.

.
Mariann, blogger, Hungary

Christmas Eve in Hungary is celebrated almost the same way as in many of the European countries, however there are some interesting differences in the traditions. The family gathers together in the evening of 24th December for a huge dinner. Firstly, we do not eat turkey, but we eat fish. This can be the famous Hungarian fish soup or fried fish with potato or vegetables. Then, for the dessert we have something with poppy seed, either the poppy-seed roll (Bejgli) or the poppy-seed dessert made of bread rolls (Mákos guba). We do not forget about the Christmas tree, as we decorate it with szaloncukor, chocolate wrapped in shiny foil. Interesting to know that every dish is a symbol. While fish and poppy-seed means wealth, fish is also a typical food during Lent. An even bigger difference, which makes the Hungarian Christmas unique is that when we finish dinner, we do not wait for Santa Claus to bring the presents. No! He already brought us some sweets into our winter boots on the night of 6th December. Who brings the presents during Christmas night in Hungary is the little Jesus. The next two days are about family and friend gatherings and big lunches and dinners, to make sure that one of our oaths for the New Year will be to lose that weight.

.
Bram, blogger Travel. Experience. Live., Belgium

Oh, how I love Christmas food. A typical Christmas Eve dinner at my grandmother’s house consists of at least four courses. Traditionally the women of the family cook the Christmas dinner. My grandmother, two aunts and mother each cook one of those four courses. In the late afternoon, after everyone has arrived and has found a seat in the living room, sparkling wine is served, among other alcoholic beverages, water and juices. Appetizers are enjoyed while opening the Christmas presents. Those appetizers usually are little snacks, such as cheeses, sausages, small fried snacks and stuffed mushrooms. Opening presents used to be my favorite part of the night when I was a kid. That has changed a little bit since I grew up. Now, I just prefer eating as much as I possibly can!
After all the presents have been given and opened, it will be time to move towards the dining room for our traditional Christmas meal. We start off with a small salad, usually with shrimp or fish. The second course is soup. The kind of soup depends on who makes it, but it always is some kind of vegetable soup, with bread rolls. My favorite course is the main course. Of course, the main ingredient is turkey! It comes with lots of different vegetables, again depending on who cooks, but usually there always are peas, carrots and asparagus. And potato croquettes. Croquettes are possibly my favorite kind of food! Normally there also is a choice of fish. Desserts are eaten at a much later time, when everybody is getting hungry again. A wide range of dessert is served. There is ice cream, fruit salads, chocolate mousse, various fruit mousses and the traditional rice pudding with sugar.

.
Felipe, Musician & guitarist Valladares, Chile

When summer starts and the temperature reaches 30 degrees in Santiago, when the days are getting the longest this time of the year, and when you feel like spending the afternoons besides the pool, that is the moment when Christmas time starts on the southern hemisphere. Christmas Eve is a special moment when most of the families gather together for dinner and children are excited about the arrival of Viejito Pascuero (Santa Claus). A typical dinner is a huge roasted turkey, decorated and served with various types of vegetables, accompanied with a good wine. A traditional alcoholic drink in Chile is the Cola de Mono (Monkey Tail), a home-made aperitif, typically made of brandy, coffee, sugar and cinnamon, to celebrate year-end events, such as Christmas or New Year or the days in between.
Another classic is the Pan de Pascua (Easter bread), which is a type of cake with lots of candied or dried fruits and nuts inside the dough. You will find this popular Christmas food filling the shelves of supermarkets, however other times of the year it is impossible to find it. Christmas in Chile has a Catholic origin. Nowadays it turned out to be more of a celebration for children, who enjoy these days the most. Adults are mainly satisfied by making their little ones happy, to gather together, and of course, to sip from the Monkey Tail.

.
Ximena, economist from Colombia, Japan

Spending my first Christmas in Japan was an interesting and unique experience, the country, its culture, traditions, people and food never stop surprising me. The main religion in Japan is Buddhism and Shintoism so there are no major celebrations for Christmas, in fact one of the surprising things for me was to see that people like to have Kentucky Fried Chicken on Christmas day, and it is common to find long queues in front of KFC.
New year on the other hand has many traditions and rituals full of different meanings. People eat soba, which is a kind of thin noodles with brown colour, and it implies a wish for a long life, and I guess it works because Japan has one of the longest life expectancy rates in the world! At the beginning of the year, what people eat is Osechi ryori, this is referred as on of the "most Japanese" of celebrations. The food is prepared several days in advance and the idea is to have osechi dishes for a couple of days. Everything is carefully packed in lacquered boxes, placing a lot of importance in the balance of colours and shapes. Many of the food items represent health, happiness, abundance, sunny days and fortune. Yellow coloured dishes represent prosperity, black beans imply a wish for good health and red, pink and white dishes represent celebrations colours. Nowadays people buy ready-made Osechi dishes with prices that start under ¥10,000 ($120) and some department stores start taking orders from October, and the most popular varieties sell out within a few days.

.

I would like to thank to my friends for sharing their Christmas traditions and that through their dishes we could peep into their homes and have a taste of their Christmas Eve. I wish all of you a Merry Christmas!
Kellemes Karácsonyi Ünnepeket! :)

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email
Subscribe in a reader

Meeting Evita and a girl buried alive

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:42:25 PST

According to an old Argentine saying, the death costs more than the whole life. Knowing this, we can imagine what an importance death has, which is well represented by the masterpieces of tombs in the cemeteries. No doubt, that tourists will discover these places, since one can find here so many artistic works next to each other, with which an entire city could attract visitors. Such attraction is the Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, and by the way, Evita is also buried here.

It is spring in Buenos Aires. No more big showers and cold weather, I can go out to the nature, which is a great opportunity to practice photography. Since my current knowledge is limited to static objects, on a sunny Sunday afternoon I decided to hunt down the sculptures of the Recoleta Cemetery. To my greatest surprise, at the entrance a big board announced that every Tuesday free guided tour started at 11am. I was already taking notes about my next Tuesday agenda, when I caught some words in the air, that within a few minutes, at 4pm, the Spanish guided tour was just about to begin. For some reason I did not look for the Spanish tours on the board, but if I was so lucky to arrive punctually, I signed up for the Spanish group.

Strictly controlled ring tone

As our tour guide arrived, he told us that the originally assigned guide could not come today, therefore, as the director of the cemetery he will lead the tour. He turned out to be a great tour guide talking through the next two hours. Surprisingly, the tour was neither sad nor elevated. Our guide welcomed us with the phrase, that one day all of us will end up here. At every stop he stood on the thumb to oversee the group of thirty people, and told the story about the dead body underneath. Despite of all the looseness he told us, that the ring tone of every employee was controlled by internal regulations, since it can turn out quite unpleasant if an elevated service is interrupted by a joyful song.

The director of the cemetery tells about Recoleta while sitting on a tomb

The shady Recoleta is separated by parcels, and on each of them there is a huge mausoleum or tomb. Because of these tall constructions the cemetery looks like a small town with stoned streets wimpling like labyrinths. If we do not go with a tour guide, maybe we do not even pay attention to important figures or masterpieces. Currently Recoleta has 4691 tombs, and 94 is declared by the Argentine state as national monument. We can find here pieces of Art Deco, Art Nouveau, baroque and neo-gothic. Till the beginning of the 20th century, many times the blocks of stone were transported directly from Paris or Milan.

Recoleta was founded in 1822 by the monks of Recoleto because there was not enough place to bury inside the church. Before there was a monastery on this land, and the cemetery was established on the soil used by their domestic animals. Recoleta is the first public cemetery of Buenos Aires. Until today anyone can be buried here irrespectively of social level, position or fortune, of course, if he finds an empty place in the labyrinth of the tombs.

Coffin behind a family mausoleum

Burying happens downwards, under the ground. It does not seem to be a novelty until we do not find out that the coffins are not buried under soil, but are placed on the shelves of the mausoleum. Walking by these monuments it gives a bizarre impression to see the wooden coffins hanging on the wall up till the ceiling. If there is no more place left, burying continues on the shelves of the basement. When I asked the director about the hygienic circumstances, he ensured me that within the wooden coffin the dead body is closed hermetically in a zinc coffin.

Celebrities and monstrosities

Through the politicians and soldiers laying here, I got to know the important points of the Argentine history. I heard about many ministers, the founder of the Argentine fleet, a granddaughter of Napoleon, but of course, the apex and final destination of every visit is the tomb of Eva Perón. The Evita cult is still significant, and the not so significant and hidden tomb is always full of with flowers left by the pilgrims. Interesting fact that Eva is not laying next to her husband, Juan Perón, but is 8 meters under the ground in her family tomb, the Duartes'. The director told us that it is a common question by the visitors why they are not next to each other, but as he said, it is the absolute authority of the family to decide.

Evita's tomb in a narrow street

Like every cemetery, this one also has legends. It happened during the turn of the century that a 19-year-old girl was preparing to theater when she suddenly fall. After stating her death she was immediately transported and buried in Recoleta. The next morning the security guard reported to the direction that the new coffin with the body of the girl was found in a different position. Since there was no earthquake the last night everyone was surprised. By all means they ordered to open the coffin. When they looked into it they saw, that the hands of the girl were not laying on her chest, but were frozen into a scratching position. According to the legend, most probably, she was buried alive, she woke up inside the coffin and drowned. One can always guess who wanted to kill her this way, but the director told us again that he can never take sides.

Walking among the tombs, sometimes in very narrow streets

Recoleta is the most well-known cemetery of Buenos Aires, however not many knows that it is far not the biggest. While Recoleta lays on five acres, the Chacarita, which was established because of the huge number of dead people after the yellow fewer epidemic in 1871, is laying on 95 acres, which makes it the biggest cemetery of Argentina. The body of Juan Perón was laying here until 2006.

According to the director, maybe because of its small size, the Recoleta is very much attached to its surrounding. For example, there are two shopping malls a few meters away, and many buildings have the pleasant view on the streets of the cemetery. Another example for the personal touch is that a separate employee is responsible to feed the abandoned cats around the cemetery. The reason for that is that the visitors should not touch sick or scabby cats, but rather healthy and well-fed ones.

Cat feeding

A more important job, however, is the continuous restoration of the sculptures. That is for sure that there is work to do, as there are hundreds of masterpieces. I saw obelisks, condors, tombs of bronze, big and even bigger carvings, of course a lot of saints and angels in all sizes and composition. During the two hours we only visited the most popular places, but I heard lots of stories. I also had the chance to take many pictures, because the cemetery continuously changed its face with the sunset. The white sculptures first dressed yellow, then red, and when the cemetery closed, with the sated cats sitting on their stairs, they said good-bye and went to sleep.

The original in Hungarian is published here.

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email

The 16th floor started to swing under me

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:42:00 PST

Before traveling to Chile I totally disregarded the fact that this country registered the biggest earthquake of all times. I did not really pay attention to the fact either that smaller shakes are normal here. Nor I connected it with the fact that one of the most popular drinks of Chile was called the terremoto, which meant earthquake. One tends to ignore little signs until becoming part of it.

Chile lays on the meeting point of two large tectonic plates. The Nazca-plate is pushing under the South-American plate with a high speed of 7-8 centimeters per year, which causes continuous earthquakes and tsunamis in the region. Since our planet consists of such tectonic plates, similar activities can be observed across the Chile-Alaska and the Japan-New-Zealand lines. Chile, however, recorded the biggest earthquake of all times on 22th May 1960, which had a magnitude of 9,5 on the Richter-scale.

Depressing memories

One day after my arrival I participated on a city tour, where our tour guide talked about the last super-earthquake of Chile. It happened on 27th February 2010, and had a magnitude of 8,8. This was the 6th biggest earthquake of all times, and lasted for 3 long minutes. People thought that it was the end of the world. Interesting fact, that while the 2010 Haiti earthquake had around 200 thousand registered victims, the 500 times bigger Chilean earthquake had around 800 in total. All the same, the reconstructions added up to one fifth of the yearly GDP of Chile, and thousands of people lost their homes. The reconstructions are still ongoing. As I saw almost no sign of damage, I was only listening to the story as a painful paragraph of the Chilean history. I never thought that soon I would be part of this never ending story.

The sculpture of Virgin Mary from the facade was damaged in 2010, now it is inside the Cathedral

Two days later I was sitting in a flat on the 16th floor when the ground started to move under my feet. I was alone and could not ask anyone if it was that. Then it started to shake stronger, and I was scared to death. I felt powerless while I was grabbing the table. The whole thing lasted for about 20 seconds, but for me it felt like long minutes. Then it stopped. The second shaking wave was smaller, so I took all my courage and went to the balcony. I remembered that one friend told me that in 2010 his sister looked out of the window and saw the high buildings swinging. I was expecting something similar. Unluckily or luckily I did not see anything similar so I calmed down and knew that it was not a super earthquake. Later I found out that I should not have gone to the balcony, because in 2010 another friend almost fell out of it during the earthquake.

This chapel was also damaged in 2010.

My friend called me to make sure that I was okay. While I was telling him excitedly what a shake it was, he calmed me down saying that they do not even call it as an earthquake, but rather a tembloncito (small shaking). Earthquakes are so common in Chile that locals do not consider any shaking below the magnitude of 7. They also know that an earthquake similar to the one in 2010 happens in every 15-20 years. This, however, is not written in stone, and since an earthquake can not be predicted, this time many people ran out to the streets panicking. Later they were just smiling on it.

The security triangle

In the evening I proudly told to my friend that in Hungary we were taught that during an earthquake one should hide under the table. He smiled at me and explained me where was the security triangle and why I had to hide there if the ground started to shake. The security triangle is the narrow line in front of the longer side of a sofa or a bed. If a wall or the cieling falls, it closes a triangle with the bed and the floor. That is the triangle where one can be safe.

The next day I saw in the news that the earthquake had a magnitude of 5,7 on the Richter-scale. I called my family to tell them how much the building was swinging on the 16th floor and Hungary had bigger earthquake only 150 years ago. Later, my story about swinging buildings fall down when I found out that most of the earthquake resistant buildings were constructed in a way, that the waves coming from the ground can not make them swing, but are running upwards on the walls. That is why while in some flats one can not feel the shaking - because they are on the lower band of the wave - in other flats it feels like swinging.

Only the bar of the roof survived the earthquake.

Earthquake resistant buildings

These buildings are reliable and can resist the biggest, recorded earthquakes. Thanks to this, during the 2010 earthquakes only a few collapsed from the hundreds of similar constructions. The majority of the death was caused by the running and panicking people on the streets and the collapse of old buildings. I heard that during an earthquake people automatically want to run out to the streets, however those who could save their sang-froid should try to keep them inside the building. The ones staying inside usually all survive the catastrophe.

Chileans in general are not not afraid of the earthquakes. They got used to it, it is part of their lives. They compare it with having a child: this is a natural thing, but one can not be prepared until experiencing it. The fact that the highest building of Latin-America, the 300-meter high Gran Torre Santiago is in Chile, shows their self-confidence.

On the right side is the highest building of Latin-America.

During the next days I was asking everyone where they were in 2010. Surprisingly, everyone knew what I meant by 2010. One was in a bar, one was in a skyscraper, other was hosting visitors, or giving singing lesson to pupils. They all told me different stories, but they all talked about it as a part of their lives. While listening to them, this sense of security and calmness started to dominate me. I already knew what to expect, where to hide and what not to do. All the same, we all agreed that we would not be on top of Gran Torre Santiago during the next super earthquake.

The original in Hungarian is published here.

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email
Subscribe in a reader

Leo Silva: "We become these local friends of our visitors"

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:41:42 PST

When planning my trip to Chile, I got in touch with Leo, the owner and tour guide of Ruta Valparaíso. We were emailing, preparing my trip to the city, and finally on a sunny October morning we had the chance to meet in person and do a full-day city tour. Leo is not a usual tour guide. This guy in leather jacket is open for pop music, reads Carl Jung, speaks four languages, and is extremely passionate about Valparaíso, which makes his guided tours special, surprising and rich. I was asking Leo to tell about the Ruta Valparaíso concept, a new way of guided tours.

1. What does your work as tourist guide at Ruta Valparaiso involve?
Like for any tour guide, my job is to show around the place. However, I always want to go further, trying to translate the city and my identity, so the traveler can approach our culture while discovering charming and mysterious places. This also means to constantly stay updated with the information, discover new places, investigate and create the story to be told. A good local guide should be intellectually restless, should love his city and understand it, and constantly study it to deepen his knowledge. He should be involved in the local life and be proactive. I do love my identity, my place and my people.

2. Could you tell us a little bit about yourself - your education, interests, past work experiences.
Originally I am a graphic designer. I worked in advertising for quite a long time. When I started to work in tourism with no experience, I applied my observation skills gained as graphic designer to create my own concept and my own tours. I am interested in many things: I love music, and as a designer I'm interested in pop culture. I like literature and psychology, and I am a follower of Carl Gustav Jung. I recently finished reading "The dance of the reality" from the Chilean Alejandro Jodorowsky and now I'm reading about Tarot cards. I am also fond of learning languages. I speak Portuguese, English, French and Spanish. I also love going out with my friends, or ride a bike along the coast.

3. What made you get into the tourism industry?
I wanted to change my life and return to my city. I used to work in the capital, Santiago de Chile, a fascinating but exhausting city. I decided to try something independently, which would give me more freedom and the chance to spend more time with my family, and see my daughter grow up. I used to walk around Valparaíso and showed the city to my friends, which was always a big success, so I decided to get into tourism. In the beginning I was not well known, but I felt free and had more time to play with my daughter. Back then I used to say that 'my poverty is part of my wealth'.

4. What is a typical day at work like?
Phew! If I could define it with three words, it would be coffee, computer, guiding. Guiding, however, is only the last part of a long chain. I manage online marketing (social media, personal blog, tour photos), the particular logistics of each tour to make sure that everything goes well, I reply to the emails related to tours and handle reservations, I review the seasonal policies, establish new contacts in order to get more market share. Lately I also have a partner, a great guide and tourism specialist. We work hard together to manage the company and its administration. At the same time we are training new tour guides according to the Ruta Valparaíso concept. Finally, if I am not doing all this, I am guiding tours in the city the whole day. This is the funniest and most passionate part of my job. So I do quite a few things. I did not even know that I was that occupied.

5. You talked about a new concept in your tours. So what makes Valparaiso city tour different from other tours?

The big difference is that we walk and use public transportation during our tours. Can there be anything nicer than playing to get lost in a place we do not know? During my travels I was always thinking how great it would be to know someone in every city, who could show me around like a local, and to go out and drink a beer where only locals go. That is how this whole concept started, where we became these local friends of our visitors, who had the chance to walk side by side with local tour guides for a half day or an entire day. We show not only the tourist sites, but also where local people live. We believe that each identity related experience enriches tourism, and this type of experience will become a major touristic attraction, and so is also part of our marketing. The tour is built up to flow, from one place to another, preferably always downhill. We pick those hidden and fascinating places which only locals know how to reach and discover.

6. In 2003 a part of Valparaiso was declared to be UNESCO World Heritage. Based on your opinion how did this change tourism?
The appointment of UNESCO gave a great push for the city's marketing. It brought back the name of Valparaíso to the conscience of people, especially to Europeans, who already knew this city from the times when sailors arrived here after crossing the Cape of Good Hope. It helped to reposition the city on the touristic map of Chile and South-America.

7. Nowadays there are debates about how Valparaíso should protect its patrimony: restoration or reconstruction. What is your point in this debate?
From the very beginning my view is restoration, and not renovation or reconstruction. Valparíso has an architectural, historical and identical patrimony, and has received the World Heritage nomination because of this complex set. It means that the city has a very interesting mixture of culture and outstanding atmosphere, and by renovation or reconstruction the places will immediately lose this historical value which gives a particular charm to the city. Finally, we should not forget about the identity of the inhabitants, who are the ones giving character to the city at the end. Restoration, however, is a delicate job. The place has to be studied carefully in order to replace, restore and repair the damaged parts, making sure to preserve the history and character. Unfortunately, Chilean authorities still think that something new is much nicer, and they prefer to renew instead of maintain.

8. UNESCO has a List of World Heritages in Danger. In your opinion is Valparaiso in a risk to get onto this list?
When UNESCO declared the city as World Heritage, it also lifted Valparaíso to a global level. Since then the authorities have double responsibility. First of all, to fix the local problems such as repair the roads, introduce electricity everywhere and to improve the living conditions. Secondly, it is also their responsibility to maintain Valparaíso's patrimony. If those, who are in charge of maintaining the patrimony, do not understand this message, and only promote modernization and not restoration, sadly we are risking to get onto the List of World Heritages in Danger.

9. You also write a blog where you publish articles about your thoughts and observations in Valparaíso. What do you want to achieve with your blog?
On the one hand writing a blog and having a point of view is almost like being a local politician. It demonstrates a way of seeing and understanding the place. With my writings I establish a point of view in the unconscious collective of the city. Someone reads me and can connect with my opinion. In the future, maybe he will share this opinion with others without even remembering my article. With this I can change opinions and actions, as well as promote ideas, generate debates, unite point of views and reaffirm identity. On the other hand, these writings are just stories of a local who loves his city, his identity, and who loves to write in his own style.

10. You know Valparaiso by heart. You were born and grew up here, and you are constantly searching for new places and stories. Which is your favorite site in Valparaiso, and why?
Wow, this is a hard question, however I already have an answer. My favorite place is the Polanco elevator on the Polanco hill. For me this is far the most surrealistic place in town. In Valparaíso, we are proud of our elevators, which are cable cars pulled up and down diagonally on a hill. The Polanco elevator is the only vertical one in the city, far from the patrimonial and touristic sites. Hidden at the end of a street, you arrive to the entrance of a tunnel, which looks like the entrance of a mine. You enter the tunnel and walk until you arrive to a small station which looks like the inside of a wet cave where ground water flows constantly on the walls. Then you go up with the elevator to a lookout of 80 meters high, from where you can see part of the city and the hills. The tower also connects to the hill with a bridge. If it sounds bizarre, it is because this is totally surreal. When walking down on the hill, you will enter a typical, beautiful and mysterious neighborhood, where the tourism is still not commercial, where people spend their days according to different timetable, calmly and peacefully. It is necessary to go with a guide there, who knows these people. This is the place which defines me, here I can be myself.

11. What does the future hold for you - any exciting plans, developments?
We dream on. Before I dreamed alone, now I have a partner who shares my dreams and we plan for long term. We want to have new and interesting clients, and we plan to create new tours and projects, which will engage us more with this city, and makes it possible to extend our concept to the entire central region of Chile. We also think of the possibility to reach these sites by boat. We dream about new Valparíso tours, which show our identity, which promote our food and customs.

Did you know that during Holy Week we burn a doll which represents Judas? Children prepare the dolls of waste and ask the adults to put coins into its pockets. Then they burn it on Holy Friday in front of the neighbors, and when the hot and burnt coins fall out of the pocket, they quickly pick them up. According to the locals, these burnt and picked coins bring good luck. I dream of tours which gives the opportunity for travelers to enjoy this weird, Spanish tradition, and to bring this and other Chilean or local traditions alive. I have this and many more ideas, which I can not yet talk about, because it needs to be developed further.

I am a creative in advertisement, who works in tourism. I am a designer, who draws new ways and tours, and of course I am a dreamer, a little rebellious, who always wants to go his own way.

Thank you Leo! I am confident that more and more travelers are looking for such trips, which Ruta Valparaíso represents. I am happy that I was guided by you and got to know a beautiful city through your eyes and stories. :)

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email
Subscribe in a reader

Providencia Hostel - I liked this stylish, budget-friendly hostel

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:41:22 PST

Before my travel to Santiago I was looking for a hostel which fulfills all my requirements. Believe me, there are many good ones, so I decided to be a little picky and check out one of the highest rated hostels. My choice was the Providencia Hostel, where I spent one night.

First of all, when I chose a hostel, it has to fulfill at least the following points:
1. Situated in the center, easy access to the main sites
2. Professional staff
3. Cozy and clean
4. Budget friendly
5. Fast Wifi access
6. Hot water

It was easy to find this building with its authentic facade, as Hostal Providencia is located on the eastern edge of the city center, just three blocks from Baquedano, where the two central metro lines connect. Point #1 completed.

I am very critical about customer care in general. When I arrived, my first visit led me to the reception to check in. This is the point when you get the first impression about the staff and the full service provided by the hostel. I got a freindly briefing about the basic rules, one of the staff politely showed me arround, and took me to my room taking my luggage. Good start. Point #2 completed.
Later Mario, the owner told me, that they pay special attention to train the English-Spanish-Portuguese speaking staff on how to treat visitors, which I agree, is a very important component in turism.

My Deluxe Double Bed Private room was cozy, with LCD TV and spacious cupboard, and it costed 35 USD/night, however dorms can be booked from already 16 USD (2012 prices). I had wifi in the room and all around the building, and I enjoyed a hot water shower in the evening. The bathroom was clean, and was cleared more times a day. Points #3, 4, 5 and 6 completed.

I was sleeping in this Deluxe Double Bed Private room with LCD TV

Besides the above points I collected my absolute favourites about Providencia Hostel, which probably makes it as one of the highest rated hostels in Santiago:

Big black board in front of the entrance, full of with tips for every day: where to eat on Monday morning, where is the best party on Tuesday, what tours are leaving on Thursday, etc. You can stand in front of this board for minutes and wander around the so many suggestions by the local staff, and your day gets filled instantly with interesting events.

This is the board welcoming every visitor at the entrance door.

Spacious common rooms with a warm atmosphere and decoration.

Open-air yard.

Camera system in the common areas to ensure full security, which I found especially useful. I also checked for cameras in my room, fortunately there was none.

Social gatherings, such as BBQ every Friday in the open-air yard of the hostel, organized going out parties. The hostel also offers a wide range of tours inside and outside of Santiago.

I liked all the details of the decoration.

One of the common areas. Isn't it like being at home?

I was spending some time in the shady yard.

Breakfast included. My favorite was the little jar of 'dulce de leche' on every table. And the kitchen staff, who frightened me to death when she shouted at me from behind not to wash the plates, as she would do that :)

Equipped and spacy kitchen for cooking.

Towels included.

Stylish dining room

My stay was sponsored by Providencia Hostal (Av. Vicuña Mackenna 92, Providencia, Santiago, Chile). If you would like more information or do a reservation, visit their website, or contact them via email on reservas@hostalprovidencia.com, or phone (+56-2-635 25 36) in English, Spanish or Portuguese. I would like to thank to Mario Hermosilla for all the help and coordination. As always the thoughts in this article are all mine.

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email
Subscribe in a reader

For one day I became a local in Valparaíso

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:40:59 PST

Let's take a port at the ocean, which is declared to be patrimony of the UNESCO World Heritage. Let's color this city so that it makes you smile wherever you look. Let's add to this a tour guide who grew up here and whom everyone knows. Let's stir a bit of a coolness and craziness into this, and you will get a guided tour which you will never forget.

The center of Valparaiso was declared to be patrimony of world heritage in 2003 because of its colorful, bohemian little houses looking at the port, the cobbled labyrinth streets and its unique, urban wall paintings. The name of Valparaiso comes from 'Valle Paraiso', which means Paradise Valley. It is not a coinsidence either that the city is called the 'Gem of the Pacific Ocean' and some European songs from the last centuries also mention its name as a dream destination.

After two rainy days, on the first sunny morning finally the city tour kicked off. It started at 9.30am and officially it was supposed to end at 7pm, so I was a little worried how I would manage this long tour, and how I am going to get on with Leo, my tour guide. Valparaiso is a port, however behind the little city center on the beach, the majority of the houses are built on the hills behind. When Leo arrived to pick me up, he immediately ensured me that we would never walk uphill, only horizontally or downhill. This leather-jacket, motor-cyclist style fellow became sympathetic instantly.

Port of Valparaíso, protagonist of many old sailor songs.

Snapshot about the hills of the city.

Which way to choose?

During the tour we traveled around Valparaiso, we walked on the cozy, little streets and we strictly took only local transportation: one of the oldest but still circulating trolleys of the world; the local buses which climbed up on those steep streets, and the inevitable cable cars. Fortunately the morning welcomed us with sunshine, so from the hills we had a breathtaking view on the port and the ocean. To my great surprise in the port we even jumped on a fishing boat to go for a ride and to see Valparaiso from the ocean. The next big surprise for me was when we visited sea lion colonies behind the docks. Those huge animals were peacefully sunbathing only one meter far from me. I wanted to shout in my happiness though I'd have better not. The highlight of the boat tour was when Leo improvidently put me behind the steering-wheel, and from then I was the captain of the little boat. I was rushing in the waves with around 8 km/h and successfully passed by a giant cargo ship.

We came up here by a local bus.

We traveled with one of the oldest, still circulating trolleys of the world.

Then we walked down from that yellow look out.

The king of the port.

Captain Mariann. Even if only for 5 minutes.

After the long walk and big excitement I got really hungry. Leo told me that, unlike their Argentine and Brazilian neighbors who live their lives on the streets, Chilean people are rather reserved, and prefer staying at home or in the backyard. Therefore if one would like to find real good food, should not look for it on the main street. We went for lunch to one of the most exciting places, the J. Cruz, which was named after a local policeman, Jose Cruz. This restaurant was the birthplace of one of the national meals of Chile, the 'chorillana', which is made of the mix of French fries, onion rings, beef and egg on the top. I have always liked these mixtures. The J. Cruz opens from a backstreet, no flashing lights, no luxury, from outside it rather looked like a local pub. When entering I was amazed. I saw cabinets at the walls, China and crystal collections inside and all around the walls. What was more surprising, however, is that short messages were written all around: on the walls, the tablecloths, and on the door frames. If there was no place left, little posts were left behind the windows of the cabinets for lovers, family members or for friends. Lately ID photos were also posted on the walls, making this little restaurant a cozy and personal place. It was a real haunt. Of course the chorillana was great, there is no space for errors here.

Notes, messages and photos all around the walls of J. Cruz

The famous chorillana accompanied by local beer

The best part of the city tour was that during our walks we suddenly popped into locals, who all greeted Leo warmly and started a talk with us spontaneously. Once we dropped by an handicraft shop, where the craftsman told us that his aunt was married to a Hungarian in Valparaiso (such a small world!). He told us anecdotes with this uncle, how he arrived to the end of the world, and how he lived there. In another shop a woman told us excitedly that graffiti artists would arrive to the Polanco district from all over the world, and everyone can enter with his house wall for this big event. When walking on the street, an old lady greeted Leo and asked why there was a bandage on his finger. Leo complained her that he cut it in the morning when peeling his orange. The lady suggested him a healing, which was new to me, to put sugar on the wound. Leo talked a lot about Valparaíso: how people live here, and how the city became so colorful. When I asked him, he did not know the scientific answers for my questions. As he said, he knows everything based on the stories of locals. He talked the whole day as every street had a story.

Handicraft shop in a non-touristic neighborhood.

A quiet afternoon on the Polanco hill.

Abandoned building on a backstreet.

During the day we walked on the biggest hills, we were in the city center and we saw the port. We also saw the crazy house of Ricardo Eliecer Neftalí Reyes Basoalto, better known as Pablo Neruda. For the evening I got a cold because of the wind, but when Leo left me at my accommodation I was still in a good mood. When closing the door behind me, I felt that if only for one day, but I became a local in Valparaiso.

With Leo, my favorite tour guide from Valparaíso

This tour was organized and sponsored by Ruta Valparaíso. If you would like to participate on this or on other tours, drop an email to info@rutavalparaiso.cl with your name, the title of the chosen tour, the date, the number of the participants and the preferred language (English, Spanish, Portuguese or French). I would like to thank to Leo Silva for all the help and this great tour. As always the thoughts in this article are all mine.

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email
Subscribe in a reader

Ancient-modern city - Santiago de Chile

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:40:36 PST

In 2010 Santiago was shaken by a 8.9-magnitude earthquake. It lasted for 3 entire minutes and many people thought that it was the end. Since then the city recovered. New, earthquake-resistant buildings were constructed, parks were established and restaurants opened. In 2011 the New York Times also selected Santiago as the top touristic destination for the year. This great improvement and the ranking made me curious to visit the city, and see how does it look like after an earthquake and the reconstructions.

Before my travel I asked Chilean friends about the must-see sights of Santiago. Finally the list became so long, and the sights were in a whirl in my head, that I decided to plan a city tour for the first day, which would visit the most important places. I chose the city tour of Go Chile, and I was hoping that after this tour I would see things clearly, and would be able to walk around the city the next days without any rush.

A bit sleepy after last night's party and a bit straggly after the rush-hour traffic, I arrived to the meeting point of the city tour. After seeing the smiling face of our tour guide, Sergio, I felt that I had arrived and I was fine. A big, blue luxury bus waited for us on the corner. Sergio greeted us in three languages - English, Spanish and Portuguese - on the board. Later he kept changing these languages with such a talent, that I did not even realize that he was talking in another language. While the bus was slowly flowing with the morning traffic, Sergio started to talk about the city and its history.

The first stop was the oldest square of the city, the Plaza de Armas. Its colonial-style cathedral with the palm trees around suddenly reminded me to the Spanish era. After stepping out of the bus in the chilly morning, Sergio talked about the establishment of the city in 1541, its war for independence against the Spanish, the huge growth in the beginning of the 20th century, and the big earthquake of 2010.

Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago

The Silver Altar of the Cathedral

Virgin Maria's sculpture was damaged during the 2010 earthquake

During the 30-minute-long free time I walked around the square quickly because it was full of with suspicious faces. I had an 'italiano' (hot dog) for breakfast, and was also sunbathing a bit on the benches. I kept thinking about this earthquake. It should have caused such a shock that people still talk a lot about it. Apart from some roofless houses or plinths without statues, I saw almost nothing from this tragedy. Still, it was scary to think about how long those 3 minutes were.

The next stop should have been a green hill inside the city, the Santa Lucia, if it was not closed because of a governmental delegation. First I was angry as we had to miss the so called 'park of lovers', but then I thought that probably things were like this here. Though we missed the delegation at the hill, we caught them at our next destination, which was the Casa de la Moneda.

Sergio stood silent because of the loud trumpets and drums, but as soon as the ceremony finished he continued talking about Santiago. Today the Casa de Moneda is the government's residence, which was already functioning during the Spanish empire as a mint. I was surprised to hear that Santiago was still one of the biggest financial centers of Latin-America along with Sao Paolo and Buenos Aires.

Entrance of the Santa Lucia Park

Ceremony in front of the Casa de Moneda

Here I did not yet know that I made a shot about the Chilean president

While we went around in the city by bus, and saw the most significant park of Santiago, the Forestal Park, and the less significant Mapocho River, as well as the cozy streets of some districts: the Bellavista, the Providencia, the Lastarria, Sergio talked about the damages caused by the 2010 earthquake which cost one third of Chile's GDP. During the reconstruction new and modern earthquake-resistant buildings are being designed, that is why one can see ancient and modern architecture peacefully standing next to each other.

Damaged roof on the right, also from 2010

Besides the ongoing reconstructions, Santiago has another pain point. Our tour guide told us that the city is struggling with the high smog concentration. Santiago is surrounded by the Andes on the east and the Chilean Coastal Range on the west, therefore there is not enough wind. The situation is especially bad during wintertime when the snow-capped mountains are almost invisible. For those who would like to get the best pictures about Santiago with the 6000 meter high Andes mountains in the background, it is best to climb up on one of the hills after a rain shower. The view is really breathtaking! Nowadays Santiago is establishing more green area to balance the bad air.

The last stop was an artisan shop, where we saw masterpieces from Lapis Pazuli, the most famous mineral of Chile, while we were invited to try another typical Chilean drink, the Pisco Sour. I usually do not like these commercial parts of the tour, but many tourists, who did not stay long in Santiago, bought their souvenirs here.

During the tour, while looking out of the bus, I saw neoclassical buildings besides modern skyscrapers, and it was good to see that neat and tawdry can peacefully exist next to each other. The colonial Cathedral and the modern crystal office modestly grew side by side. The architecture of the past, the modern technology of the present, and the consciously expanded parks for a greener future exist together in Santiago. There is still way to go, a little dusty, a little disordered, but the result is a very exciting city which everyone can enjoy.

The Metropolitan Cathedral besides a crystal office building

The Santiago City Tour is 3 and a half hour long, therefore it shows the most important sights. I got exactly what I expected: lot of stories, history, data and tips for the upcoming days. The tour was professional and smooth. It is prefect for those who are in a rush and can not spend more than a day in Santiago. Or for those, who would like to see the sights in a structured way, to have more time later to wander around aimlessly. The tour is not enough to decide whether the New York Times was right by ranking Santiago as the top tourist destination, but I heard so many stories and data which helped me get the initial picture about the city.

The Santiago City Tour was organized and sponsored by GoChile.cl. If you have one full day in Santiago, and want to take a peek into the famous Chilean wine culture and to visit one of Pablo Neruda's houses you can also try the Wine, Isla Negra Beach and Neruda full-day trip. You can reserve these or other daily tours on their website or sending an email to tours@gochile.cl. I would like to thank for Alvaro Rojas for all the help and coordination. As always, all the thoughts are mine in the article.

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email
Subscribe in a reader

Sleeping with a stranger?

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:40:16 PST

Recently I read many articles about CouchSurfing (CS) experiences. They were mostly bad experiences. The excuse is always the same: you can not know if the person is okay until you meet him. I think that to a certain extend it is possible to know how the person is. Come on, use your senses. Women! We have a sixth sense, right? Do not tell me that you did not know that this guy, who was smiling so charmingly in a swim suit on his CS profile, would not hit on you!?

Right, if you wanna know how I filter, I collected 7 + 1 points to help you. These are my subjective filters, some might not apply to you, but can definitely help to have a better experience with CS. This post is for you, who is new to CS and heard many negative stories so far, AND also for you, who is hosting travelers. Please make the CouchSurfing experience a nice one for the both of you. You can all win at the end.

When traveling I have two columns: those who I consider for surfing, and those who I fancy going for a drink with. So first let's see what I consider when choosing the best CS host in town.

1. I study the profile.
I only stay at the place of hosts who has more good references from girls as well as from boys. I prefer if the person has hosted both genders. This shows to me that the person is not a hunter. I carefully read the feedbacks. If someone is also Verified, that’s a plus.

With one of my CS friends we had a conversation about hosting the same gender. This is a sensitive topic, many bad experiences regarding gay stories, so I am not so strict about this part. :)

2. Attraction vs. sympathy.
I do not go for people who are attractive for me. I go for people who are sympathetic. I think it does not need explication, I do not go for sex.

3. I need privacy.
I only stay at places where I can have my own room/ or living. I like to have my privacy after a long day without people stepping over my head.

4. Let's chat.
After studying the profile, chatting is the second very important filter, so I start a chat. What I am checking through an email? Are you responsible? Do you answer me back in reasonable time? Are you staying cool or are you over-excited when I accept your couch request? (I can still back off if you are already too much at this point.) Are you funny and interesting? Will I have spare keys to your flat? Will you trust me and treat me equally?

5. Single bachelors.
Men who could be my father by age, living alone and offering a couch for a solo girl in her twenties? Seriously? (I underlined where I put the emphasis, no offense.) I find it kind of weird. I am happy to go for a drink if the person is interesting, but they are also on my black list for surfing.

6. Pain in the neck.
I ignore people who are too much. When someone insists that I choose his place, wants to take holiday when I am there, and writes me even when I have not answered, that is when I back off. I find it aggressive and it is already too much.

7. The Narcissistic.
Egoist, frustrated, touchy and depressed people are also out. I do not have time and energy to heal their hearts during my travels. I can not define how to recognize them. Personally I do not like CS profiles where every photo is about „how sexy, cool and fashionable I am, oh, and look how the sunshine reflects on my muscles.” Okay, this is quite subjective, but everyone has his thing. Guys with such portfolio, please back off, I just want a couch!

+1. I do not challenge the situation.
I do not even give the slight chance for my host to think that he can hit on me. I hope you know what I mean. If not, better you ask your friends about your behavior whether it is provoking or rather modest.

After I found the best couch in town I also try to meet other locals to have a chat with, to have fun or have a nice walk. If I had not do so, I would not have been able to write the 5 things I have learned about Bolivia, I would not have had one of my craziest 'after office' parties in Santiago, or I would not have found out in a Spanish tapas bar with a Chilean guy that we had a common friend from Mauritius.

To sum it up, I tried CS, slept at places of strangers, and also met up many people for a drink. I have never ever had any bad experience. Was I lucky? I do not know. Will I meet assholes in the future who try to hit on me during CS? Probably yes. But with the above points I can at least sort out the majority of these people and hope for another good experience with another lovely host. Thans to all my CS hosts for the great times! :)

What experience do you have with CouchSurfing?

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email
Subscribe in a reader

Get lost in the Sunday bazaar of San Telmo

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 17:49:55 PST

One of the things I like in Buenos Aires is that here people always find the time, the reason and the place to open a bazaar, or as it is called in Argentina, a "feria". Everything is closed on Sunday? No problem at all, let's get down to the bazaar and let's get lost amongst all the traditional handicrafts and antiquities. But the most famous - and turistic - from all bazaars is the traditional Sunday bazaar of San Telmo, in the historical center of Buenos Aires. The bazaar is throughout the whole length of the Defensa street up to Dorrego Square.

I will write about San Telmo in a later post, but until then a photo essay teaser about the bazaar and its feeling.

Let's start the bazaar!

Just a usual Sunday on the Defense Street

There is everything! Posters, ...

... tin tango dancers, ...

... mate tea pots, ...

... antiquities, ...

... more antiquity, ...

... design, ...

... music, ...

... and lots of tango!

And if we would like to take some rest, ...

... there is always a place for us.

Welcome to San Telmo Holeevood!

Tips:

The bazaar is open between 10am - 17pm every Sunday. Who wants to avoid the crowd, should arrive in the early hours.

The best is to start the walk from Plaza de Mayo (the city's main square) and walk along the Defensa Street from there.

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email
Subscribe in a reader

Pizza-culture in Argentina

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:39:24 PST

Why am I writing about the pizza culture? Firstly, because I love Italian cuisine and I have tried out almost all the significant Italian restaurants in Budapest. At the same time us, Europeans have a different view on the pizza culture than what Argentinian think about it. The best is that the Argentinians confidently state that their pizza is even better than the Italian one. So what do Italians say about it? Who is right?

The dominance of the Italian kitchen in Buenos Aires is due to the high number of Italian emigrants from the beginning of the last century. During the past 120 years, however, a new Argentine pizza culture developed, which is worth a post.

First of all, as mentioned in my post about 7 food to try in Argentina, a pizzeria and an Italian restaurant are two different things, and it should not be confused. While in an Italian restaurant you only get pasta with the variation of thousands of sauces; in a pizzeria you have the same variety of pizzas. But the two meals are well separated in different places. So when entering a pizzeria in Buenos Aires and grabbing the menu, I was a bit confused, because I found all kinds of pizzas from tomato and creamy bases through the different toppings, till the great variety of shapes.

It is good to know that the outlook of an Argentine pizza is a little different from its Italian friends. While Italians swear on the combination of ’thin dough – thick topping’, their Argentine descendants complemented it, and here you can expect a portion of a ’thick dough with an even thicker topping’ on it. Do not be surprised if you ridicule a small-looking pizza, but after a few minutes you start begging to your neighbor to help you out with eating up the rest.

First I was also offended when we ordered a pizza to share it. But the custom here is that people order one pizza to share and if there is still space for another one, then the next can be ordered. No question that these pizzas are quite stodgy, but they are just perfect if you drop in from the street to grab something fast and delicious.

What can you choose from?

There is the classic pizza with tomato base and various toppings. We all know these ones. But then there is the „fugazetta”, which is made of a dough base and on top there is onion and cheese hills melt together. The first fugazetta was made by a Genovian emigrant in the beginning of the last century and is still very popular. For meat-lovers here is the „milanesa”, - which is not really a pizza, but can be found in all pizzerias. It has a wiener schnitzel base which gets the topping. Not recommended for those on diet :)

In a pizzeria you can sit, stand or take away the food. So far I had no courage to stand in the crowd of pizza eaters on the ground floor, this is my next mission. Until then I stay at the little tables observing the pizzerias of Buenos Aires, sending over my observations.

THE pizza

Milanesa. Eaten with no side dish.

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email
Subscribe in a reader

Budapest - Lisbon - Sao Paolo - Buenos Aires: Another day of adventures

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:38:40 PST

On Saturday night I successfully arrived in Buenos Aires after a flitting 24-hour-long journey. I adore these travels because there is always something happening to me, just like during my trip from Budapest to Antofagasta. What is more, a one day of travel would be hell boring if nothing would happen, right? Therefore, let’s have a few words about my journey between Budapest and Buenos Aires.

The first flight took off at 6am from Budapest to Lisbon. It started slowly as it was so early and I was just super tired. My motivation did not raise either when the stewardess told me that the orange juice was out and I should pick something instead. Anyways. However, when my neighbor was also rejected the wine – for which he was preparing the whole morning, and after having had been the witness of my orange juise rejection -, his nerves could not make it and he bursted out in imprecating the whole airlines company. So I decided to sleep back. I only started to become a bit nervous when we had already been making the second round over Lisbon. While my neighbor was worried whether there was enough kerosene, I was more interested whether I would catch my flight to Sao Paolo, for which I only had 15 mins.

After landing I realized that of course the gate to the Sao Paolo flight was at the other corner of the terminal, so I had to reduce the projected 13 mins of walk to 5 mins of running. A bit warmed out, but I fall into my seat in the aircraft in relief. That’s when I realized that there was no TV screen in the seat. I was condemned for a 10-hour-long flight with no TV and no films! What the hell can one do for 10 hours without films? There was one option left, sleeping. Then a new shock for me was to see that the button, which bends the squab, was missing. Superb! In the next 5 mins I mobilized most of the stewardesses – who only spoke Portugese - to find me a proper seat, and changed place before take off.

I think I managed to get the coolest neighbors. A Chilean guy, who is doing business with Swiss watches, and who finally did speak other langauge than Portugese. His mission was to justify me that Antofagasta was one of the ugliest cities of Chile. On the other side an unknown man who was snoring in my face throughout the 10 hours. The Chilean first thought that this noise came from me. (Thanks Javier for this nice assumption!) Other than talking through the whole flight, with Javier we tried to get some wine for better sleep, but we were rejected again (like was my neghbor on the previous flight).

Between Sao Paolo and Buenos Aires the 3,5 hours literally flew rapidly. Except from those 30 mins when we got in a turbulence and I got a heart attack. Fortunately the couple next to me started to play Sudoku to keep me busy.

Another day with flying, lots of fun, and more to come :)

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email
Subscribe in a reader

Tips for solo travelers - Getting started!

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:38:15 PST

During the years it happened many times that I traveled as a solo female. Looking back in time it was maybe hard sometimes, but the fact that I still do travel proves that altogether it went well. You ask me many times how did I start traveling and what tips can I give if you want to travel alone. I collected some first-hand tips about what to consider before traveling alone.

Let's start with my parameters: I am a young and blond girl, I come from Europe and I speak English and Spanish. I find these things important to mention because they all have an effect on my travel experiences. They can either help me, or they are obstacles. The important thing is to use them according to the culture in which I am visiting. So who are you? What makes you different?

With Raqy and Blanky, my Philippine friends in a taxi

1. Know yourself.
Firstly think about the following before you travel. Are you open to new cultures? Are you flexible enough? Are you ready to make quick decisions? Do not worry if you do not answer yes to all. But be ready to face these questions during your trip. It's a life-time experience!
It is also an advantage if you know your strengths. Are you a master of communication? Do you have an adorable smile? Do you give the first impression to others as a super friendly person? Can you make a Plan B easily and quickly? You will get over difficulties with such skills :)

2. Know your destination.
When I travel to a new culture I tend to find out about the traditions and the culture of the country. Not only to survive culture shock, but also to create the ground for communication with local people. For example peopleappreciate if you know something about their history or their celebrity famous football player. Every culture has something special, for example the 5 things I've learned about Philippine people was totally different from what I've learned about Bolivia.

With my tour guide, Carlos, at Lake Titicaca

3. Plan flexibly.
It means that having plans give the feeling of safety. When I travel I plan how many days I would roughly stay at one place, and what are the top things I would like to visit. Though during traveling I also meet other travelers or locals, and it happened many times that I changed plans based on their recommendations. Once I even had to enter Peru instead of Bolivia because of football. Have plans, but leave space for changes.

4. Be as cautious as you would be at home.
Before traveling to faraway places many times I was frightened by rumors about the safety of the country. My family was freaking out. However and fortunately, these rumors proved to be false when I saw the place with my own eyes. Still! When I travel somewhere I respect the other culture and tend not to shine out from the crowd and show off to be a tourist. I act like as if I was at my own place. What it means? Stay modest. Stay at public places. Do not sit in the car of strangers. Be cautious about your belongings. Avoid being in abandoned places at night. Normally we do the same at home, right?

With Mona in a bazaar in Cairo

5. Be open.
I know it's a cliché but I tell you what I mean. Sometimes I don't understand how people can stay in a hostel the whole day not talking with anyone. Of course, when I travel alone I am more cautious about who I talk with. It is fine to a certain extend. But there are always other travelers who are in the same shoes like me, who would be happy if they had someone to talk to. So I am always the one who takes the first step and initiate a talk. During a travel you can meet so many interesting people, exchange useful information, like how it happened to me during my flight from Hungary to Chile.

With all this in mind you can start training yourself for your travels. As you see from the pictures I always found "angels" who cared about me and helped me on the spot. Every adventure is different, though, and hopefully you can add some more tips to this list from your future experiences :)

Subscribe to tiny girl with big bag by Email
Subscribe in a reader

Salzburg in one day - a time travel through the day

noreply@blogger.com (Tiny Girl with Big Bag) — Sun, 24 Feb 2013 07:37:48 PST

One of the highlights of our road trip was the visit to Salzburg. I have heard so much about this city, maybe because it is considered as the second capital of Austria? Still, if I need to name a few things which 'sell' Salzburg for tourism, these would be Mozart, who was born and lived here; the von Trapp Family - from the 'The Sound of Music'; and the Edelweiss, a flower (no, not the beer) which you only find in the mountains around. Salzburg does not let you forget about them, though it gives you much more than that. So what else is there for you in Salzburg?

The morning started with a visit to the nearby Hellbrunn Castle and its tricky fountains. After getting properly wet, the plan was to start our Salzburg city tour from the north, going to the south. The first destination was the large and colorful Mirabell Park. This time of the year this beautiful park was spouting the fragrance of roses and all kinds of flowers. If you remember the scene from the musical 'The Sound of Music' where the nun is dancing with the kids around a fountain, this was filmed in this very park.

Just at the exit of the park stands the house of Mozart, which documents the life of the composer and his family. From the audio guide I found out that Mozart liked darts and was shooting in the butt of ugly peoples' paintings on the wall. :)

Entrance to the Mirabell Park

The famous fountain from 'The Sound of Music'

Mirabell Palace

Summer is all around

House of Mozart in front of the Mirabell Park

We crossed the Salzach River on the Makartsteg bridge which, like in many other cities, was full of with locks with the name of couples on it. These locks and the view on the Castle of Salzburg gave a romantic impression. Unfortunately, because of starting hunger we were not much in a romantic mood, so we quickly dropped by the Getreidegasse walking street looking for some food. This street is one of the symbols of the city because of its cute wrought iron signs above the shops. This was my favourite street in Salzburg! (No, not only because of shopping, but also because of the special atmosphere of the last centuries.)

View of the Castle of Salzburg from the Makartsteg Bridge

The Makartsteg Bridge

Getreidegasse street with the wrought iron signs

At the end of the street there is the elevator which took us up to the Mönschberg lookout, from where we had a full view on Salzburg. Surprisingly the city is tiny, its fame seems to be much bigger than its size. Good for us as we walked around on foot :) Our way led us through the Universitätsplatz, the Domplatz up till the St. Peter's Cemetery. As mentioned in my post about Buenos Aires, I try to check out the cemeteries of different cities because of the beauty and calmness of the place. I was happy I did it again, this little cemetery was worth a visit because of its special wrought iron tombs and the catacomb in the mountain.

View from the Mönschberg lookout

Universitätsplatz

Food market on Universitätsplatz - free try!

Residenzplatz

Resting place on Residenzplatz

Cathedral from inside

Catacomb of St. Peter's cemetery inside the mountain

St. Peter's cemetery

The last destination of the day was the Castle of Salzburg which had a huge exhibition about the history, the furniture, weapons and dresses of last centuries. Not to mention the breathtaking view on the city of Salzburg. We liked to bend on the handrail of the lookout, not only because of the view but because of this long-long day. We sailed back in the time of Mozart, then to the 1930s' with the von Trapp family, and we finished in the present when we were just watching the life of this beautiful city from a bird's view.

Tower of the Castle

Inside the Castle, walking through the exhibition

Ceiling of the hall

View on Salzburg from the Castle

... and a last view to the other side.

Have you been to Salzburg?

Tips:

The best time to visit Salzburg is from late spring to early autumn. In other times of the year the weather is humid and cool.

All the places we visited, plus the local public transportation were covered with the Salburgerland Card. The card costs 46 Euros (in 2012) and one can freely travel inside the city for 24 hours after validation.

There are more exhibitions dedicated to the life of Mozart. If you have one day, it is more than sufficient if you pick one, as you will not lose much if you do not check them all.

This entry is dedicated to the October edition of the Carnival of Europe hosted by DJ Yabis at Dream Euro Trip.

Receive The Latest Posts Directly To Your Email - It's Free:

Enter Your Email And Click Submit