Tip Top Dog School Blog

Coping when your dog gets lost - from the perspective of one owner

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 13:56:00 +0000

SUKI - My beloved Doggie, who was missing for 5 weeks, and is now home

The truth is I don't know how I coped with Suki being missing for five weeks, but somehow I did.

From my brave, but skittish little dog I've learnt so much; that I have inner resilience, that I'm lucky to have a creative life that keeps me going during sad times (and there was MUCH sadness when Suki was missing),that feeling sad is natural sometimes, that dogs have their wildness and sometimes struggle to be pets, that some dogs need to take things very slowly indeed, and so much more.

Suki has had a complex life to date. She was a breeding dog up until May, when I re-homed her. She seemed to love her home straight away, and settled in well. But I didn't realise how much Shiba Inu's bond with just one person(me in this case, because I was caring for her), so when looked after by someone she didn't know that well she ran away on Primrose Hill, and had an accident which involved lots of injuries.

Slowly, gradually, with lots of care she recovered well. And for that I'm deeply thankful to the Well Animal Clinic, my Mum and friends.

All seemed to be going smoothly for Suki this Autumn, but there was more adventure to come. I was directing a play, so was not at home as much as usual, and for two days a week employed a dog walker. Suki seemed to be really coming out of her shell, getting friendlier with other dogs, and generally bolder at this time. Unfortunately she spooked at a loud noise on West Heath and ran away in early October.

The things that kept me going were: My Mum's support and help, the huge efforts the dog-walker put in to try andfind her, my imagination, Steph at Dogs Lost (who gave great advice), Sue at Tip Top who checked in with me,and put the word out to so many people (even though we'd only met her once), and some great friends Yael, Sasha and Andrew who helped me look on the Heath.

Before Suki was found I have to admit I was beginning to give up hope, and wondering whether I should try to move on from the loss, but I resolved to keep going with a few things: to respond to any sightings ASAP and to keep advertising for Suki. I also (probably for myself more than Suki) talked and sang to her which I know sounds a bit mad, but anything that helps I say do it!

I was trying to accept and hope that she was somehow okay, and being looked after, whether that was by me, herself or a stranger.

Myself, Mum and the dog walker did a lot of looking, postering, advertised Suki's loss in the papers, phoned every dog charity, vets, rivers, the railways, police, hampstead heath constabulary - everything we could think of. We did some scenting for a while (see Dogslost website for further details) We even consulted an animal communicator (which I'm still not sure about...) but basically it felt better to do something rather than just wait.

I managed to keep working (only took one day off), directed a successful play and set up another project in that time - which I still find slightly incredible.

The morning I spoke to Terri, who found her, it was like a miracle.I could hear from her voice that she was genuine, and when she said Suki was wearing her collar with her tag with her name on I was pretty sure. She and her lovely rescue dogs had found her in a thicket, near Golders Hill Park, and lured her out with some sausage.

Suki is now safe and well and snoozing on a new blanket.

Thank you to everybody who helped bring her back! My advice to anyone who loses a beloved dog. Do everythingyou can to find them, but be gentle on yourself and try to keep the rest of your life going. If you do find them its a combination of luck and looking, and life is short - so don't drive yourself mad if you don't succeed. Dogs are pets but they also have a wildness - that's just their nature.

Titania Krimpas.November 2011

What do do if you loose your dog -
Go to www.DogLost.co.uk where you will ge all the help you will need.You can organise posters from there but you will need to be signed in.

Contact Dog Wardens', rescues,some contact numbers of London rescues are listed below, vets and leave a poster . For contact details of vets in your area click on the light green logo "Find any UK Vet" on our website.

Dogs can be rehomed after 7 days, try and visit rescues do not rely on phone calls alone. If your dog is Chipped do contact the Chip Co and report him missing and check your details are up to date.

Please update us on who has been contacted i.e. DW's etc and if you have started postering. You can leave a comment by typing in the Comments box.

Posters can be printed by selecting View Poster just below the dog's details (you must be registered and logged in).

Suggestions for places to poster : -

Direct area of loss – veterinary surgeries – local pounds, and rescue centres - dog walking areas – dog bins – park entrances and exits – boarding kennels and catteries - re-cycling areas- petrol stations - pubs, and pub car parks - railway stations – bus stations – bus stops - post offices – newsagents - supermarkets and their car parks – pet shops, and animal food stores - corner shops – off licences – take away food shops – library's – mobile library – schools, inside and out if poss, and school gates – inside rear side windows of car - taxi drivers – taxi offices – garden centres and nurseries – doctors surgeries – clinics – community centres – village halls – telephone boxes – riding centres and stables – dog groomers - town, village, and church notice boards – works notice boards and canteens etc etc .

Flyers :- Hand to dog walkers who will always spread the word – Postmen, plus a poster for the sorting office – bin men – street cleaners – milk men – paperboys - children and parents outside schools – pubs, ask to leave a pile on bar, and place on tables (dogs get sold on in pub car parks) – same with markets, fairs and boot sales, hand out flyers and poster the entrances (dogs get sold here too ) - hand out flyers at gatherings such as sports matches, fetes and concerts - post through letter boxes of neighbouring properties and business's - pay to get flyers into the local newspaper , magazines and free publications.

LONDON RESCUES

Animal Rescue & Care (ARC)

PO Box 46, Twickenham, TW11WG

Tel: 020 8607 9902 Email: arc@animalrescueandcare.org.uk

www.animalrescueandcare.org.uk

Battersea Dogs Home

4 Battersea Park Road, London, SW8 4AA

Tel: 020 7622 3626 Fax: 020 7622 6451.

www.dogshome.org

Battersea at Old Windsor

Priest Hill, Old Windsor, Berks SL4 2JN

Tel: 01784 432929 Fax: 01784 471538.

www.dogshome.org

Dogs Trust - West London

Highway Farm, Harvil Road, Harefield, Uxbridge UB9 6JW

Tel: 0845 076 3647

www.dogstrust.org.uk

Enfield Dog Rescue

Palmers Green, London N13

Tel: 020 8886 4117 (before 8 pm)or 020 8376 2363 (after 8 pm)

Email: maryescully@blueyonder.co.uk

Harmsworth Animal Hospital(RSPCA)

22 Sonderburg Road

Holloway

LONDON

N7 7QD

Telephone: 0300 123 0712

Hounslow Animal Welfare Society

PO Box 234, Hounslow, Middlesex TW3 2QG

Tel: 020 8560 5443

Mayhew Animal Home

Trenmar Gardens, Kensal Green, London NW10 4RE

Tel: 020 8969 0178. Fax: 0208 969 3221

Email: info@mayhewanimalhome.org.uk

www.mayhewanimalhome.org

Peoples Dispensary for Sick Animals

Hendon Veterinary Centre

4 Church Terrace

Church End

Hendon

London NW4 4JU

0208 203 2090

Putney Animal Hospital (RSPCA)

Clarendon Dr, Wandsworth, London SW15 1AA, UK

Phone: 0300 123 0716 24 Hour emergency service

http://www.putneysw15.com/default.asp?sect...&page=rspca.htm

RSPCA Hillingdon, Slough, Windsor and District Branch

Hillingdon Clinic, 123 Uxbridge Road, Hillingdon, Middx, UB10 0LQ

Tel: 01895 833417 Fax: 01895 834461

Email:fundraiser@rspcahillingdonclinic.org.uk

www.rspcahillingdonclinic.org.uk

National Animal Welfare Trust Rescue Centre

Tylers Way, Watford By Pass, Watford, Herts WD25 8HQ

Tel: 020 8950 1320 (10am to 4pm)

Email: reception@nawt.org.uk

www.nawt.org.uk

Steph (Aunt Stef) Volunteer

Area Co-ordinator (West London)

mobile: 07980 387427

Landline: 0208 866 6543

stephtaylor@talktalk.net

Since Dog Lost began in 2003 over 13000 missing and stolen dogs that have been registered on the site have been reunited. Dog Lost is run by volunteers but your donations are essential to keep the web site running.

Help us to help others. Please make a donation today

www.doglost.co.uk

0844 800 3220

Admin 0844 800 3220

admin@doglost.co.uk

Coping with a Tibetan Terrier : Part 2 Going for Gold

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Mon, 24 Oct 2011 13:40:00 +0000

Bobbie is my wonderful but naughty Tibetan Terrier. She is now 3 years old and I can't believe that it was just over 2 years ago that we were introduced to Tip Top Dog Training.

Being my first dog Bobbie was very indulged – in fact she was spoilt rotten. So much so that my sister bought me a sign for my porch saying 'A spoiled Rotten Tibetan Terrier Lives Here'! Our first class with Tip Top Dogs was on the Heath and a nightmare!! Bobbie barked throughout the lesson. Sue kept saying to me 'walk your dog out'. I think we spent the whole lesson walking out - it was like being sent out of class. By week three we were, at least able to participate a bit in the exercises but I still had to keep taking Bobbie out and, worst of all, she loved flirting with all the other dogs. Bobbie has a tendency to suck up to larger male dogs, Trooper to name one, give them loads of kisses and then roll over on to her back with a real 'come hither' expression on her face.

So we persevered. By 21^st October 2009 Bobbie was becoming a bit more disciplined but, trust me, she was still no angel. But as that day was her birthday and it coincided with a Heath Class, I asked Sue and Barbara if we could have a special class to celebrate her first birthday. I made up party boxes for all the class participants and Sue and Barbara put on special games, including recall without pinching the sausages!!! It was great fun and cemented my relationship with Tip Top Training. I now knew that this was the training for me.

Bobbie and I worked really hard and went in for the bronze Good Citizen Dog Scheme run by the Kennel Club. If there is anyone out there wondering whether to go ahead with this test, I say go for it. Bobbie had to be the most difficult dog in the test. When I tried grooming her, she wanted to bite me; when I tried walking her up and down the hall she decided to attach herself to my leg and refusing to let go; playing – she was having none of it. The other dog owners were having a hard time not to laugh. Bobbie's performance was straight out of a comedy! However, Chris, the judge did allow us to redo certain exercises and eventually Bobbie got through with a bare pass – but she got through. Since then we have carried on with the training and sailed through the silver and got through the gold.

So now for some hints on dealing with a Tibetan Terrier. First of all you have to be consistent. If I give in once Bobbie knows and will make the most of it. Secondly I have to keep practising and practice in different places. I am lucky enough to be able to walk my dog on the Heath so have lots of opportunity to do exercises as we walk off lead. Thirdly I have to be one jump ahead. For example to overcome her dislike of grooming, I used to hide treats in a towel in front of her while I was brushing her. She got so busy looking for her treats that she forgot about the brush! Bobbie wouldn't go to her mat when told so every morning after I had finished grooming I would take her to her mat and say 'On your mat' and give her a treat. Now she runs to her mat before I even say anything. And, in the gold test she went straight to her mat and settled down on it like an angel! So my advice is, if the dog doesn't do it then think of interesting ways to entice and go for it.

I am very proud of my Bobbie – she has gone from an unruly 10 month old to a reasonably well behaved 3 year old who is a joy to live with. She is gentle, I still have her first ever toy, she is loving and best of all she seems to love people. So I say a big thank you to Barbara and Sue for having the patience to help and encourage me to get Bobbie and me to where we are today. Thank you guys.

Our experience with cruciate injuries

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Mon, 22 Nov 2010 10:46:00 +0000

By Joanne & Andre Gibson, November 2010

Caiti, our Heinz-57 rescue, is a very energetic little dog who loves nothing better than to dash madly after a ball or chase through the woods after squirrels & birds.

About 2 years ago, she showed classic signs of a cruciate injury:

• occasionally refusing to come for a walk;

• hopping intermittently whilst on the trot;

• limping very slightly on her right hind leg when getting up after a sleep

We kept an eye on her, but after a while decided all the symptoms were most probably down to her having strained a muscle on her most recent run in the woods. So we:

• reduced her exercise; and

• had a few sessions with an animal osteopath

Both of which helped, but after a month the symptoms still hadn’t completely disappeared so we took her to our vet, who suspected a cruciate injury straight away, and after x-rays to rule out anything else, confirmed a partial ligament tear of probably about 30%.

There were 2 options:

• drastic rest to give the cruciate a chance to heal naturally with the help of some medication;

• surgery

We tried the first option and things improved a little over about a month, but not enough, so we subsequently opted for surgery - and just as well, as the cruciate had not just torn, but completely ruptured by then.

The surgery went well – for more info on cruciate injury & repairs for dogs please see here.

Recovery was a very difficult time for Caiti as we had to crate her for about 8 weeks in order to ensure she rested her leg - the slightest run or jump would have put her back in hospital:

• For the first few days she was only allowed out for toilet breaks, with no other exercise whatsoever.

• Then she was allowed a slow & gentle 5 minute on-lead walk 3 times a day, but no stairs, slopes or unstable ground.

• This was gradually increased by 5 minutes every two weeks until she got up 45 minutes, 3 times a day on different surfaces and at different speeds.

During this time we also tried some Bach Flower remedies and RRA remedy (Rhus Tox,Ruta Grav and Arnica) to help with swelling and bruising.

We kept her amused with frequent “chats”, stuffed kongs and by moving the crate around the house so she always had company.

Once she was allowed a little more movement we did some limited clicker training with her, a bit of Tellington TTouch, and introduced her to the Nina Ottosson dog brick game, all of which she loved.

We started hydrotherapy after about 4 weeks to help exercise and strengthen both legs without putting weight on the joints. We were also given gentle, progressive physiotherapy exercises to complement the hydrotherapy and walking regime.

She recovered really well, but despite our best efforts, about a year later she tore the cruciate in her other leg and so the whole process had to be repeated. Once again the symptoms were intermittent and incredibly subtle, and in hindsight we realise that she was hiding a lot from us as she is so muscular and stoical.

Although both surgeries were successful and her recovery better than we could have expected, Caiti now has arthritis which is very advanced for her age in both her knee joints. To help her in this regard, we have put her on Hill’s Joint Diet, and she also has a glucosamine tablet once a day. We have also kept up the hydrotherapy, and she goes for a maintenance session fortnightly.

The moral of the story
It sounds obvious, but if you see any of the warning signs, have your dog checked out by your vet. At worst you will have paid for a consultation to give you peace of mind. If there is a cruciate injury, the earlier you identify it the better. Surgery is not always necessary – sometimes a partial tear can be healed with a strict regime of rest. If you leave it too long before getting treatment (like we did), you risk your dog developing arthritis in the joint, as well as there being a good chance that the tear will progress into a full rupture, which apart from being extremely painful for your dog, will require surgery and be extremely painful on your pocket. Also beware that some insurance companies will only cover the 1st cruciate injury, so if the other leg goes in the future (and there’s a 50% chance it will), you will not be covered.

Doggy Alzheimer’s

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Tue, 09 Nov 2010 13:33:00 +0000

It’s hard to imagine but dogs can suffer from a form of Alzheimer’s just like we do. It is called Canine Cognitive Dysfunction or CCD for short.

Dog dementia affects older dogs and can be distressing for not just the dog but the owners as well.

As our dogs get older we may notice signs of aging – a bit of grey round the muzzle, the eyes are more opaque and not as clear at they used to be. Sometimes they find it harder to get up from their bed and may not hear you as well as they used to. This aging process sneaks up on us as we have been spending a lot of time getting the dog to be “good” that we don’t notice that they have slowed down. All of the above are normal signs of getting older. However, you may suddenly notice that your dog is getting confused and this may be the onset of CCD.

CCD is very similar to Alzheimer’s disease and is caused by physical changes in the brain and chemicals. Some studies have shown that some dogs have lesions in the brain similar to the ones found in humans.

Consequently your dog is going to have trouble thinking, remembering and learning which will cause behavioural changes, which will impact upon family life.

So what are the signs of CCD?

Disorientation-

No longer responds to his name, forgets familiar tricks and possibly stops responding to basic commands

Familiar routines may get forgotten

A reluctance to play or go outside for walks and seems to be withdrawn

Gets stuck in corners or behind furniture and not being able to work out how to get round it and stares in to space

Possibly engaging in repetitive and compulsive behaviours e.g walking in circles or pacing or wandering aimlessly from room to room

Getting lost in familiar places e.g the park or even the garden at home

Has a problem finding doors and getting through them and walking up and down stairs

Gets agitated easily and may bark more for no apparent reason

Dogs may exhibit decreased interaction with people -

No longer greets visitors or even family members

Doesn’t ask for attention or petting any more

They may even walk away when being petted

Sleep patterns may alter-

Sleeps more during the day

Sleeps less at night

Possibly wandering aimlessly around instead of sleeping

Dogs with CCD may forget housetraining-

House soiling or incontinence – accidents happen

They can stop asking to go out

When they get outside they can forget why they have gone out there for

Large breeds tend to show more signs of CCD than small dogs. Some giant breeds are technically senior citizens as early as 5 or 6,while some of the smaller breeds show few signs of aging till around age 10.

At age 7,one in five dogs show some sings of CCD. By age 11 about one in three are showing signs. Almost two – thirds of dogs aged 11 to 16 have CDD symptoms.

It is heartbreaking to watch a dog that you love become confused and forgetful. If your dog is displaying any unusual symptoms go to your vet for a full assessment explaining what you have observed as CDD will not show up during a routine physical examination.

Many owners tolerate a variety of senile changes and don’t go to the vet till bladder and bowel control is lost. Sadly there is no cure for CDD but drug treatment can provide a better quality of life and slow the progression of symptoms.

Canine cognitive dysfunction is defined as the occurrence of one or more geriatric onset behaviour problems, which are not sufficiently accounted for by medical conditions. A diagnosis of CDD can only be made after any physical reason for such changes have been ruled out. There is no blood test or scan to diagnose canine cognitive dysfunction. Your veterinarian will probably want to perform a thorough physical exam with blood tests and a urinalysis. Other diagnostic tests might be ordered, and depending on the symptoms.... a neurological exam, cerebrospinal fluid analysis, or possibly a CAT scan.

Dementia and incontinence can be caused by other health problems, from treatable conditions like urinary infections and thyroid disorders, to heart failure, kidney failure, brain tumours and other life-threatening illness. A dog with painful arthritis will no longer be able to run down the stairs to greet you at the door or jump up on your bed at night. An elderly dogwho's lost his hearing may not hear you call his name or know when someone's at the door. Your aging dog might seem disoriented due to loss of vision.

Treatment for Canine Cognitive Dysfunction.
Your vet will discuss various possible drugs to administer and any foods that can help support CDD.

Some veterinarians treat affected dogs with a supplement of omega-3 fatty acids.

New pet foods are being formulated for dogs with Canine Cognitive Dysfunction.

Pet owners who participated in a study using a prescription diet reported that 74% of older dogs with a history of house soiling accidents experienced a reduction in accidents after 30 days. Enthusiasism in greeting family members increased by 61%.

The following solutions can help senior dogs feel better and enjoy a better quality of life whether they are suffering from canine Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome or not.

Provide mental stimulation....
Play with your dogs - Go for short walks - Talk to them - Pet them - hug them!

Prevent wandering away by keeping the dog on a leash or in a fenced area when outdoors.

Attach a bell to the dog's collar to help keep track of him indoors.

Minimize stress and change...

Don't rearrange furniture or change familiar surroundings.

Stick with a daily routine.

Take more frequent potty breaks.

Watch your dog. Remind her why she's outside and tell her what she must do.

Praise good behaviour.

Feed a senior formula pet food that's designed to combat signs of aging.

Provide raised food and water bowls so large dogs won't have to reach down uncomfortably to eat and drink.

Provide a soft, comfortable bed; away from drafts and at a height your dog can easily get in and out of. You might want to place doggy beds or cushions in several rooms of the house to provide comfortable, convenient places to sleep and relax - always near you.

For a dog who has always been allowed on furniture but can no longer jump up, place a ramp or a small set of steps near the bed, sofa, or chair your senior dog is unable to reach.

Some old dogs like some old people, age successfully and continue to function well. They remain bright and mentally alert throughout their natural life span, while there is an accelerated form of dementia in others. This devastating, progressive disease causes behavioural changes that disrupt the lives of dogs and of the people who love them and yearn for their companionship. Timely veterinary treatment plus love and patience, can give an aging dog extra quality time and a fuller, happier life.

Most importantly, keep your patience and compassion. Your dog's world has changed, but every effort should be made to show him that your love, respect, and pride of him past and present abilities has not changed and never will.

http://www.hoppity.co.uk/Homes_gardens/canine_cognitive_dysfunction.htm

http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art25417.asp

Adolescence: The Teenage Dog

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Mon, 08 Nov 2010 14:53:00 +0000

Adolescence: The Teenage Dog
By Kathy Diamond Davis

The adolescent dog, like the adolescent—or teenage—human, has an immature brain in a body that's nearly the size of an adult. The maturing process happening in the dog resembles the human teenager in several ways, and your dog needs similar guidance during this difficult life stage.

The Dog's Experience

Dogs are highly instinctive animals who have difficulty understanding human priorities. Let's take a look at some of the things going on in the adolescent dog's body and mind.

1. The permanent teeth are in or coming in, and the dog needs to chew. This urge can be so strong that the dog will use your possessions for the purpose, particularly when a toy that relieves the jaws is unavailable. Some dogs don't chew much, which can seem like a blessing at the time, but these may be the dogs who have more dental problems later. Having a non-chewing dog can also make you think your next dog is a true fiend, when actually the chewing dog is more normal.

2. Rapid growth may have the dog in mild or even severe pain. Some conditions that occur during this period require medical treatment, while others may be self-limiting. We don't always know how much pain a particular dog may feel from growth. Some dogs require medication and restricted activity for a time. Others may require surgery.

3. Immature growth plates are susceptible to injury, which means that certain recreational activities and careers for dogs need to wait until the dog is more mature.

4. The adolescent dog has to discover and come to terms with limits, both of the world the dog lives in and of the dog's own capabilities within that world.

5. The body of the intact adolescent male dog produces testosterone at a rate several times the adult level of this hormone. As a result, some male-oriented behaviors can become extreme at this stage of life if the dog is not altered. These include urine-marking, roaming, and aggression toward other male dogs.

6. The intact female dog's body prepares for and experiences the first heat cycle. Behaviors you may see around this time include flirty and playful activity toward male dogs, roaming, frequent urination, false pregnancy and aggression toward other female dogs.

7. Defense drives begin to mature in adolescence, and fears the dog developed at a younger age are expressed in either shy or aggressive behaviors.

8. Other dogs begin to hold the adolescent dog more accountable than they did the puppy, with fighting as a possible result. The adolescent dog is beginning to find a place in the pack, and this process doesn't always go smoothly.

What to Do, What to Do

The human family is far from helpless in handling the adolescent dog, and it's a wonderful opportunity to establish a great, lifelong relationship with your canine family member. In some ways you just need to keep doing the same good job you've been doing to raise the younger pup.

The age at which your dog will begin and end adolescence will vary according to the breed, the bloodline, and the individual dog. That makes this stage feel a little bit like the dark side of the moon when you're going through it with your beloved dog! You can't be sure whether a behavior is a "phase" through which the dog can mature and be socialized and trained, or whether it's going to be part of your dog's adult temperament.

It helps if your dog has a responsible breeder who is available to counsel you through adolescence. Your dog's temperament may still be open to shaping during this time, but that shaping can be for the worse without the right handling. Different breeds can need different handling during adolescence, and the bloodline makes a difference, too.

Male and female dogs tend to mature at different rates. Among the large breeds, males may take a year longer to behave in a fairly mature manner than females do. Adolescence doesn't begin or end abruptly. It's an uneven process that can take quite some time, or a dog may go through most of it within several months.

If you got your dog as a puppy and provided good training, you have an advantage when adolescence arrives but your work is not done. The adolescent dog needs training experiences that the puppy was not ready for. The adolescent dog has questions that didn't occur to the puppy.

Best of all, the adolescent dog is ready to begin to bond with you in a whole new way, to form a real bond. Puppies "love everybody," and if you have a puppy who hates everyone but you, beware! That puppy is not likely to have a good adult temperament.

Adolescent dogs are ready to make distinctions about the world and the people and other dogs in it. You become an important person in this dog's life, a beloved partner, if you earn it. This is the time that good leadership with your dog, including good management, good handling and good training, begin to really show results. This is when your dog becomes your dog by the dog's choice.

Stay in training classes with your adolescent dog until at least a year of age. Many dogs will need training classes longer. Attend training class with your dog each week and practice the class homework every day. Apply the training in all possible situations so that it becomes integrated into your life with your dog, keeping communication clear between the two of you. Working with a private trainer is a reasonable alternative to classes, provided you and your dog also work in controlled situations around other dogs as you would in a class.

Be patient with your dog. Don't interpret your dog's error during a training session as deliberate defiance. The dog needs to ask questions, and you will be wisest to answer those questions kindly as well as consistently. The dog won't be any better trained because you get mad in the process.

As a matter of fact, training done in a playful tone is more effective than getting mad, because this is the most receptive state of mind for learning—and that goes for your brain as well as the dog's! Have fun when training, and make it fun for the dog, too. Hold the line on the limits of behavior because the dog needs this from you. But don't fault the dog for having questions. That's the nature of an adolescent.

Opportunity Knocks

Most people don't understand dog adolescence. Sadly, it's a prime time for people to give up on their dogs. You can avoid this terrible loss by realizing what your dog experiences during this time, and being there to help your dog through it. Both of you can come out on the other side of adolescence with an incredible bond and knowledge that will bless the rest of your lives.

If you are looking for a dog to adopt and are offered an adolescent from good genetics with a reasonable life history, consider this youngster carefully. It's not an easy time to start with a dog, and you will need good training help to get through it. But if you have the time, the patience, the resources, and the heart, the adolescent dog you adopt just might turn into the best dog you've ever had.

http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=1701&S=1&SourceID=47

The benefits of joining a good dog training class over training your dog on your own?

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Sat, 06 Nov 2010 20:11:00 +0000

When you get your puppy you will need to teach it right from wrong e.g, not to eat your furniture, where to go to do its business etc. The dog will need to know it's boundaries and it's place within your home as well as learning how to walk nicely on a loose lead, not jumping up at people, how to play properly with other dogs and to come back when you call.

You are going to have to teach this young pup how to be a civilised "person" in today's modern society!

There are television programmes that show you what we call "quick fixes" offering inappropriate advice.

It is sad and unbelievable that some trainers are still using harmful and damaging equipment, for instance, prong, choke and electric collars, along with training techniques such as alpha rolls, lead jerks, kicks and other punishing methods.

The practice of using aversive methods or equipment on fearful and aggressive dogs is detrimental and dangerous and can lead to re-directed aggression and even more problems.

People talk about "dominance", and that the dog needs to be dominated and " have a pack leader" are completely disconnected from the sciences of ethology and animal learning. Yes, a dog does need to know its boundaries and what is expected of it but not by fear and intimidation.

High profile dog trainers have a responsibility to all the people who watch their television programmes, read their books or watch their DVD's. Training techniques must reflect well researched non-aversive methods that will help dog and owner develop an understanding of each other's needs.

Dog owners should not be tricked into thinking that there is a 'quick fix' for every perceived dog behaviour problem - these techniques do not work.

Dogs learn through kindness, consistency and repetition. Also when you are out and about in the park you will meet people who have had dogs all their lives and offer advice that is 30 years out of date!

When you get a puppy you have got a blank piece of paper to work with and it us up to you how this puppy develops

By the 49^th day of its life the brain waves of the puppy are the same as that of a mature dog but the puppy is a clean slate. Between 7 and 12 weeks is the most rapid stage of learning and the greatest impact of his social learning will be shaped by what happens at this point. The window of learning opportunity is closing after this stage although the puppy can still learn it won't be as easy.

Between 12 -16^th weeks of the puppy's life, his basic character is set by what he is taught. This will apply especially to his attitudes toward people and toward his ability to serve them the very best he can.

By the time your puppy is 16 weeks of age he has been with you for approximately 8 weeks and this period is known as "period of cutting teeth and apron strings." Pups will attempt to clarify and resolve question of leadership. Suddenly you notice that they don't come back to you when you call them. They may even develop food-guarding issues.
Dogs don't wake up when they are adolescences and think, " I know! I think I will have a behavioural problem today!" and start flicking through a book to find one to annoy you! These problems have been allowed to happen slowly over a period of weeks and months – we just quite didn't see it coming! This is the time when a lot of owners suddenly notice that their puppy is developing a mind of it's own and get out of their depth and decide that they DO need to go to school! It is easier to put the "right thing" in than take the "wrong thing out". If they had begun to train at 8 weeks of age maybe life would have been easier and less mistakes made but dogs are a work in progress!

Just think – you don't let your child go to junior school and then drop out of education for the rest of its life!

Some owners see training a dog as a "one off process" – a short course and they think that the dog is trained. Or maybe if they have a particular problem they will opt for a 121 session but the process that a dog learns is by repetition and consistency.

These people are to be commended because at least they understand that a dog needs to be trained. Training means being taught to respond to human verbal cues generally by performing certain positions or activities and to follow a human list of expectations for manners and interactions. Dogs don't come that way.

Unfortunately some owners may have unrealistic expectations therefore they are likely to be disappointed either in the training process, the specific trainer, the methodology employed, or all of the above.

Frustration and disappointment can set in and the human – dog relationship can begin to break down.

How often have you heard: "Dogs want to please humans naturally, don't they? Dogs are genetically designed to obey a pack leader, right? He KNOWS what he did wrong!"

The thing is dogs don't speak English; we have to teach them this. They don't abide by the same social rules as we do, don't communicate in the same way we do, and don't come with remote controls or programs like a computer.

This makes them infinitely interesting as a different species with a mind of it's own that mostly lives in harmony with us, especially if we take the time to learn what makes them tick.

Think about it. You wouldn't get a car without learning how to drive it, would you?

If we look at it from this perspective training a dog can easily be seen in entirely new light. Would you be able to master a foreign language or a new skill in only six sessions?

The more you put into your dog the more you get out of it. To teach and train your dog will reap huge benefits – this beautiful creature is part of your family and you want and need to build a relationship together.

The benefits of going to a dog school or club are numerous. You will meet like-minded people, have fun, and learn how to handle your dog in different situations. Your dog will learn how to behave with other dogs, listening to you and not running off doing it's own thing. Up to date and modern methods are kinder – positive reward based training is the way forward and will help to form a wonderful working relationship with your dog. These animals have brains and bodies that need working – mental and physical exercise is needed. You will get advice when things may start to go wrong and you will have support when you need it.

So what do you need to look for in a good dog training school? Recommendations from your vet, pet shop and friends are ideal. Phone the Kennel Club, as they will steer you in the right direction to a listed school in your area.

Call the school and talk to the trainers – ask if you can sit in and watch a class. A good school will be only too happy to let you do that. Ask what methods they use – is it reward based training or is it still the old "check chain" form of training?

To sum up!

Puppies need to be socialised properly – puppy parties are not socialising as they can be a recipe for disaster. Pups need to learn how to behave around other dogs and not play or beat other pups up all of the time. This can lead to a dog being so dog focused it will not pay you any attention.
You need to find a good dog school that uses positive motivational techniques and not check chains, pinch- collars, sprays water at the pups or throws rattle cans at them
Don't listen to everything that people tell you! Good dog trainers use up to date and modern techniques. The old fashioned methods were based on laboratory experiments on rats.
Set your dog boundaries and be realistic with your expectations
Do be consistent with your training – dogs learn by repetition and kindness
Remember that dogs are sentient beings with emotions but they do not misbehave out of spite! Only us humans behave like that!!
Think about how you would feel if you were on the other end of your lead – would your dog jerk you about, speak to you in a strange language and expect you to know what he wanted?
Do no harm!

Does your dog dream?

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Tue, 02 Nov 2010 20:16:00 +0000

Your dog lies asleep at your feet, and suddenly his legs begin to twitch and run. Is he dreaming? Or are you dreaming to think such a thing? Wake up and smell the dog food! Of course he's dreaming. Why would you think otherwise?

Although no one really knows the true function of dreaming it does seem to be necessary for normal data processing and memory storage. Dogs think and they have memory. And their memory banks need period purging and reorganization during sleep just as ours do.

Dogs and humans are not as different as some scientists would have us believe. Scientists tend to dwell on the differences between the two species, whereas the sameness is positively compelling. We're 95 percent identical genetically and physically (right down to the iron-containing porphyrin ring our common blood pigment, haemoglobin). Our brains are similar, our neurochemistry is the same, and our reflexes and memory are "wired" in like manner.

Types of Sleep

Like humans, dogs have two main types of sleep: rapid eye movement (REM) sleep and slow wave sleep (SWS). As a dog falls asleep the first stage he enters is SWS, the "sleep of the mind," in which mental processes are muted but muscle tone remains. The next stage is REM sleep, the "sleep of the body," in which the body is fully relaxed but the mind is racing and the dog's eyes are darting rapidly.

In SWS, brain waves are slow, undulating and of high amplitude much like those in a lightly anesthetized animal or person. In this stage, the dog appears calm and at rest. Dogs and humans are more easily aroused from SWS sleep, which appears to be a transitional state with incomplete muscle relaxation.

By contrast, in REM sleep brain waves are rapid and irregular, like those of the awake state. Dogs, like people, display REM sleep, and during REM sleep they show evidence of heightened mental activity – fast electroencephalogram [EEG] (brain wave) pattern. They may move their legs as if they are running, may whine or whimper as if excited, and may breath rapidly or hold their breath for short periods.

When REM sleep is achieved they are at their most relaxed and are most difficult to waken. It is during this more profound physical sleep that their eyes begin to dart and the brain waves pick up pace. Humans awakened from this state report that they have been dreaming; dogs are probably dreaming too when they are in REM sleep, although no dog has ever told anyone about a dream he's had.

Incidentally, adult spend about 10 to 12 percent of their sleeping time in REM sleep. Puppies spend a much greater proportion of their sleep time in REM sleep, no doubt compacting huge quantities of newly acquired data.

And if you've ever wondered whether dogs that seem to be running during sleep are dreaming of catching rabbits or something similar, you can safely say they are.

There's no doubt about it, dogs sure know how to sleep. The amount of time spent napping varies from dog to dog and depends on the dog's age and personality. Counting little naps and longer snoozes; most dogs sleep about fourteen hours a day.

Nobody is sure why dogs sleep so much. The amount of sleep that an animal needs depends upon its species. Horses and cows may sleep only three or four hours daily, because they require long hours of grazing to supply their bodies with sufficient food. Bats and opossums may sleep closer to 20 hours.

The various breeds of dogs also seem to have different sleep requirements. Some very large breeds of dogs, like Newfoundlands, Saint Bernards, and Mastiffs, often spend a great deal of their lives sleeping – perhaps up to sixteen or even eighteen hours a day. For this reason they were often referred to as "mat dogs," because they could always be found lying in front of the fireplace, much like a giant, furry hearth mat.

Dogs sleep more than us, but they wake more frequently than we do. How much and when they sleep depends on the level of activity in their environment as a pet in the home is likely to sleep more than a dog that works for a living, like a search and rescue dog or a dog working on a farm. Dogs are lucky – they are able to adjust their sleep pattern so that they can be awake when there is something to do, and asleep the rest of the time.

Of course, today's modern indoor dog sometimes sleeps out of boredom. You can help your pet by providing plenty of stimulation during the day – this can be in the form of toys, a companion, or plenty of walks and playtime with you. If he has enough to do during the day, he may stay awake when the sun is up and sleep at night when you do.

Sleep Patterns

Dogs have the same sleep patterns as humans. When your dog first goes to sleep, he enters the slow wave or quiet phase of sleep. He lies still and is oblivious to his surroundings. His breathing slows, his blood pressure and body temperature drop, and his heart rate decreases.

After about ten minutes, your dog enters the rapid eye movement (REM) or active stage of sleep. He rolls his eyes under his closed lids, he may bark or whine, or may jerk his legs. During this stage, the brain activity is similar to that seen during the dreaming sleep of humans, and is evidence that dogs have dreams.

Incidentally, adult dogs spend about 10 to 12 percent of their sleeping time in REM sleep. Puppies spend a much greater proportion of their sleep time in this type of sleep, no doubt compacting huge quantities of newly acquired data.

Where dogs sleep.

You may think your dog will sleep anywhere, but some dogs are very particular about where they sleep. In the wild, dogs sleep in dens, and your dog may seek out a sheltered place in your home, such as under a bed or in a closet. You may notice your dog circling or pawing at his sleeping place before he settles. This is to make a comfortable, den-like depression in which to sleep (even though it doesn't have much impact on a short pile rug).

You can make a comfortable bed for your dog or choose from the variety of plush beds at your pet shop. Some people love snuggling up to their dogs at night and there is no question dogs love sharing their owner's bed. Advocates of this method say it strengthens the human-canine bond – not to mention the comfort and warmth your dog can provide for you. However, some animal behaviourists say this can upset the sometimes precarious hierarchy, because the dog may get delusions of grandeur. In other words, he may think he is higher on your household's social scale than some other members of the family. Four-on-the-floor may be the order of the day for some of these characters.

http://www.petplace.com/dogs/do-dogs-dream/page1.aspx

http://www.petplace.com/dogs/sleep-behavior-of-dogs/page1.aspx

If Only It Were That Easy

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Wed, 06 Oct 2010 21:09:00 +0000

January 19th, 2009 by Kelly Gorman Dunbar

Many people see training a dog as a one-time process. They'll take a class or hire a trainer to help them for a while or for a particular problem and once the course is over they think, "Great! The dog is trained now."

On the one hand I commend these people, because at least they understand that a dog needs to be trained. Training meaning taught to respond to human verbal cues generally by performing certain positions or activities and to follow a human list of expectations for manners and interactions. Dogs don't come that way.

However, their expectations are not realistic and therefore they are likely to be disappointed either in the training process, the specific trainer, the methodology employed, or all of the above.

This "take-one-class-and-run" approach used to be common at our puppy school; people would happily register their tiny pup for a puppy class, but not the all-important follow up class that coincided with adolescence. As if any skill can be trained to completion, let alone mastered, in only six one-hour sessions. Not to mention the fact that puppy insecurity and compliance quickly erodes in adolescence without further building on the necessary foundation of a good puppy class. Not to mention that most human students in class are as new to the skill of dog training as their young pup, meaning that rank novices are in the position of teaching rank novices a new skill. Pretty challenging stuff.

Don't get me wrong, a good puppy class is a good thing and provides an excellent launching pad for smooth sailing later in life, but it is only the first step in a lifelong process. This is the part that so many dog owners fail to grasp. This is where disillusionment and frustration begins and where human-dog relations begin to break down. "Dogs want to please humans naturally, don't they? Dogs are genetically designed to obey a pack leader, right? He KNOWS what he did wrong!"

The thing is dogs don't speak human, don't abide by the same social rules as us, don't communicate in the same way we do, and don't come with remote controls or programs that can be installed once, like a computer. This makes them infinitely interesting to me as a different species with a mind of it's own that mostly lives in harmony with us, especially if we take the time to learn what makes them tick.

Think about it. You wouldn't get a car without learning how to drive it, would you?

One way dogs are similar to people is that they generally don't do things that aren't to their benefit somehow. Pretty smart, eh? Especially from the biological viewpoint of survival. In this way they are quite a bit like us.

In other words, they learn the way we learn, even if their idea of what is good or bad or right or wrong is different from ours. So we humans should be able to understand that practice makes perfect, rewards and resource accumulation goes a long way, and punishment and frightening experiences can inhibit behavior or cause superstitious beliefs.

If we look at it from this perspective training a dog can easily be seen in entirely new light. And shedding light on a subject makes it clearer. Would you be able to master tango dancing in only six sessions? (I assure you it hasn't happened for me!) Can you recite the poem you learned in first grade for your first parent day performance, or are you a little rusty without practice? Would you know exactly how to behave socially at an event in a foreign country, or is it possible that you might accidentally offend someone with your actions?

Next time you are training your dog please keep these things in mind and take the time to patiently explain what you'd like them to do and if they get it wrong take sometime to figure out why. It is probably not because they are just being stubborn or are challenging your authority.

The alternative, if you want easy and instantaneous, is to go train this dog instead.

Coping with a Tibetan Terrier by Judy Stapleton.

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 14:27:00 +0000

I have a Tibetan Terrier called Bobbie. She is now 22 months and I love her to bits. She can look like the cutest dog you ever did see, especially when she lies down and puts her head on her paws. She is highly intelligent, learns everything very quickly; is great with children; loves people and other dogs.

So now I've told you why I love my dog to bits. But there is always another side to every good story. Bobbie is very stubborn. There have been times when I have spent over an hour trying to coax her home after a walk. I am lucky enough to be able to walk on Hampstead Heath and when we get near the exit if Bobbie isn't ready to come home she will sit down and there she will stay. No treats, no playthings, nothing will get her to come to me. If I go near her she runs off. So what have I done, well I've just stood or sat it out with my back to her. Eventually she will come around to see what's going on. Now, she will come within a minute or two so my patience has paid off.

Bobbie loves to play with other dogs the problem is she can become over enthusiastic and then things can get a bit out of control. So, I have tried hard to manage her playtime with other dogs. It's OK to let her run around for a few minutes but then I need to step in. I find that getting the dogs to sit and wait for a treat does wonders in quietening the game down. It acts as a sort of interrupt.

For ages I could never get Bobbie to go down. She would sit without any problem at all but she would not lie down. So, I went through a stage of asking her to go down whenever, in the past, I would have asked her to sit. In fact, I stopped asking for the sit and only asked for the down. I made sure I would always give her a treat; in fact I started giving higher value treats for the down than for a sit. After a couple of weeks she was going down without any trouble. Oh, by the way, I always made sure that I treated her if she was down without me asking. Now I can get her to go down even if I am a few feet away from her. Also she will stay down for 3 or 4 minutes when, before, she wouldn't even stay down for a second.

Bobbie, even now, occasionally pees in the house. I have a cat and I think accidents happen when Bobbie wants to let me know that her nose is out of joint because of the cat. The only way I have discovered to get over this is to be aware of Bobbie at all times. I have baby gates to prevent her wandering around the house. Also I need to take her for walks morning, afternoon and last thing at night.

Finally, I have noticed that Tibetans do not like to feel left out. So I have gradually built up the amount of time that I leave Bobbie on her own. To start with I left her for a maximum of 5 minutes and then gradually built that up to an hour, then 2 hours. One thing I never did was go to her when she was crying. I would wait until the crying stopped and then go and give her a treat, pet her and then leave her again for another few minutes. Even now I will leave her in the kitchen and, if she cries, just ignore her until the crying stops. Then I go to her, say hi, and then leave her again for a minute or two. I may have a quick game with her before I leave her again but the important thing for me is that she doesn't feel that she has won!!!

Hope this helps anyone with a Tibetan the best thing that happened to me was meeting the Tip Top Dog trainers. Bobbie and I have not looked back since and I have adapted all the coping ideas above from stuff I learnt in class. So do not despair, keep training, keep at it and love your Tibetan.

Blue green algae

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Sun, 27 Jun 2010 19:35:00 +0000

Blue Green Algae Toxicity in Dogs

This is a warning about another Summer Hazard which can make your dog very seriously ill. Blue Green Algae tends to flourish slightly later on in the Season - but it will affect many ponds.
You can ask any park keepers/rangers what the situation is. On the Heath they usually post warning notices. If in doubt - keep your dog out of the water.

Dog owners are warned to steer well clear of stagnant ponds when catching some late summer sun with their pet. According to a leading veterinary charity, this is ideal weather for highly toxic 'blue-green algae' to bloom. This can kill if dogs drink contaminated water or swim in it and then groom themselves.

Senior Veterinary Surgeon at PDSA, Elaine Pendlebury, said: "Toxins produced by, or contained within, some types of algae are extremely poisonous and death is common and rapid – symptoms occur within 15 minutes to one hour of exposure. Death can happen within 10 to 30 minutes of this and usually within 24 hours of swallowing the toxin."

Algae can be more concentrated at water edges and even small amounts of water can contain lethal doses. In some instances, dogs have been found dead at the edge of the water.

The first signs of a problem include severe vomiting which may contain blood which then can lead to more serious symptoms. With the more toxic algae, breathing difficulties, collapse and death can develop within 15 minutes of exposure to the toxin. Although affected dogs can survive if treated quickly, clinical effects may show over a longer period of time and they may develop kidney or liver failure.

Elaine concludes: "Blue-green algae is particularly prevalent at this time of year, especially with this late summer sun we are currently enjoying. So we want dog owners to be aware of just how dangerous it can be. Dogs are particularly at risk when they drink from watering holes like ponds where the algae has spread rapidly, usually when it is sunny and the water has a high temperature."

Owners should beware of any stagnant pools. Algae can live on the surface or the bottom of the water, so the pond won't always have a scum on the surface.

Though known as blue-green algae, it can vary in colour – some are red and some are black as well as blue-green.

First Aid For Your Dog

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Thu, 28 Jan 2010 15:42:00 +0000

Here is a link to an excellent website with lots of information about how to administer first aid to your dog. It deals with burns,bloats,broken legs,poisoning and much more.

Knowledge of basic first aid may well help to save your dog's life but it is imperative that you seek emergency veterinary advice/treatment as quickly as possible.
In fact the Veterinary Act 1966 was only amended in 1988 to allow anyone other than a vet to take first aid measures in an emergency to save life or relieve pain.
Needless to say you should always take your dog for veterinary care but in some instances knowledge of basic first aid may well help save your dogs life.............

http://animals.howstuffworks.com/pets/how-to-give-first-aid-to-your-dog.htm

A New Puppy

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Sat, 16 Jan 2010 16:39:00 +0000

Great Expectations!

An excellent article on getting the "ups and downs" of having a new puppy in your life by Gillian Ridgeway

http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogger/723

You think you are alone. Everyone else sees your new little bundle of fluff as fun and exciting. As the neighbours ooh and aah in delight over Oscar's antics, you heart starts to sink. What have you done? How did you ever think that getting this puppy would add delight to your life?
It all starts with an image. The image that we focus in our heads is one of the loyal, faithful companion. The companion that is willing to dole out unconditional love to us after a hard day at the office. We visualize ourselves tossing a stick on a beach just as the sunset is approaching. We visualize ourselves sipping coffee at an outdoor café with our dogs patiently waiting at our sides and we visualize just how cool this dog will be as he lopes around the dog park, with only eyes for you.

And your journey begins. You start to look for the breed of dog you think will suit your lifestyle. You search for breeders and you comb the local pound in search of the ideal dog. You decide on a set of criteria and you are determined to stick to it. After all, if you stick to your criteria, the outcome should be great. You hunt around for information at every place you stop. The other dog owners are thrilled for you and more than happy to give out the name of their Veterinarian and trainer and your sense of elation gets even higher.

You are prepared, so this venture should be perfect.

The big day arrives and Oscar comes home. You have done your homework, you feed him the best foods, you exercise and train him. You are consistent with the house rules and whamit hits you! This wasn't what you had visualized at all.
The initial honeymoon stage is over, the novelty has worn thin and Oscar becomes more of a nuisance than a companion. He doesn't seem to take to toilet training as quickly as your cousin's dog. He jumps more, chews more, barks more and digs more than you ever expected and now sometimes you wonder if you even like him anymore.
The fact is that almost everyone feels this same sense of doubt. We worry about the choice we made, not the choice of dog but the actual choice to add a dog to our family.

Taking a closer look at the rest of our lives, all the big events in life seem to go through the same initial stages. Not that comparing a new car is like the arrival of a puppy, but the stages are similar.
When I made up my mind to switch vehicles, the process was exciting. I went to the car lots and got all the brochures. I did my research and invested in the lemon-aid book, a guide to used cars. All this preparation was part of the fun. After laying out my criteria it seemed that I would never find a vehicle that had everything on my list. Finally, the perfect vehicle was sitting on the lot, at the right price! It was so perfect that it was difficult to say no. After all, if I said no to this vehicle, then what was I looking for? I signed on the dotted line and once again became excited by the prospect of my new van. Upon picking it up, it was a delight. It was peppy and had a great stereo system. As I do a lot of traveling with my dogs, one of my main criteria was that the van had to have rear air conditioning. Well, it did have that, but when I started to move the seats around to accommodate the dogs, I noticed a small glitch. It was a bit more difficult to arrange them in the configuration that was originally planned. This was a source of distress for me for a month or so. I lamented over the fact that my old vehicle was perfect for the crate set up. Eventually, I got used to the new van and I wouldn't have traded it for anything else.

As previously stated, comparing dog ownership to van ownership is not the issue here. The issue is that all big events have stages. If the facts were told, most new moms face certain doubts, coupled with feelings of joy and all the ups and downs that are left in the middle. While most new mothers know that this is normal during the adjustment stage, others need help during this difficult time.
Death causes stages of emotions and grieving. This situation is so "normal" that these stages are documented. It is a sense of comfort to people to know that their reaction during this process is considered normal.
It seems then, that it would be considered normal to experience some kind of emotional upheaval when a dog is suddenly living in your house.

The great news is that this is just what we thought it would bea phase. This phase seems to start at the beginning of the second month after getting your dog and lasting, on average, about one month. While weathering out this storm, many dog owners feel stressed and then add guilt onto the stress. As their relationship grows and changes, a routine starts to take place. They may not be living with the dog they thought they would have, but they are living with the dog they now love and wouldn't change their experience. As time goes on, the memory fades and before long it is inconceivable that any other dog would be as perfect as Oscar.
"At first, I wanted to send her back. I thought I had made a mistake. After ten months, nothing and nobody could make me give her up."

Taking care of your dog's paws in the snow

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Thu, 17 Dec 2009 22:50:00 +0000

Snow, slush, ice and cold weather all take their toll on your dog's paws. In addition, rock salt and other sidewalk treatments can leave your dog with painful, sore feet. During the winter, you'll need to take extra steps to prevent problems like cuts, infections, sores and painful paws.

Instructions

Step 1

Ice balls can form between toes very quickly in snow and your dog will go lame.If this happens wash the paws with warm water after going for a walk or play time outside. You want to wash off harmful irritants like salt and prevent your dog from ingesting any of the chemical de-icers by licking their feet. This also eliminates any ice or snow that has built up between your dog's toes that could make walking painful.

Step 2

Inspect your dog's paws after every walk,particularly when you have walked in areas treated with salt or another de- icer.Be sure to check between the toes and look at the pads for any cracks or sore spots.

Step 3

Cut your dog's nails and trim the hair on his feet regularly. Hair that is too long attracts snow and slush which can cause problems. Keep from cutting the fur too short, however, as it offers protection for your dog's feet.

Step 4
Apply petroleum jelly,baby oil to your dog's paws to soothe irritated feet.Be careful not to apply too much ot too often as pads that are too soft can also lead to irritation.You can also apply just before going outside as it can help protect your dog's feet but take it off again when you get back inside.Pet store's also sell special wax or other products that work in the same way.

Step 5

Treat any cuts, sores or infections that develop according to your vet's instructions. If you notice that your dog seems to have painful feet even without sores, take a day or two off from walking in the snow.

Rawhide chews

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Tue, 15 Dec 2009 06:35:00 +0000

Rawhide dog chews and rawhide dog bones are commonly used treats for dogs and many dogs enjoy them tremendously. But are there dangers involved with these products?

Many dog owners give their dogs rawhide dog chews or rawhide dog bones as treats and many dogs seem to enjoy these rawhide treats. However, there are some concerns surrounding rawhide bones and chews which pet owners should be aware of and attempt to address if electing to give these rawhide bones and chews to their dogs.

Advantages of Rawhide Chews and Rawhide Bones for Dogs

Many people feel that rawhide chews and bones can help improve the dental status of dogs allowed to chew them regularly.

In addition, for many dogs, spending time chewing a rawhide bone or chew helps to break up the boredom of the day. Many dogs truly seem to enjoy the experience and look forward to rawhide chews and bones.

Concerns Involving Rawhide Chews and Rawhide Bones for Dogs

There are several concerns which rawhide chews and rawhide bones raise when used as treats for dogs. These concerns include:

the possibility of a dog developing a dietary intolerance to rawhide chews and rawhide bones.
the possibility of food allergies occurring in individual dogs in response to rawhide chews and rawhide bones.
the possibility of broken teeth occurring when dogs chew on rawhide chews and rawhide bones. This is more common with the rolled varieties of rawhide treats than with the flat varieties.
the possibility of chunks of the rawhide chew or rawhide bone breaking off while the dog is chewing on the treat and causing the dog to choke on the piece of rawhide.
the possibility that part or all of the rawhide chew or rawhide bone could be swallowed by the dog and be unable to pass through the intestinal tract, causing an intestinal obstruction which may require surgical removal.
the possibility of bacterial contamination of rawhide chews and rawhide bones with salmonella and other contaminants. These contaminants may cause disease not only for dogs, but for dog owners as well.

Minimizing Risks Associated with Rawhide Dog Bones and Rawhide Dog Chews

While electing not to feed rawhide bones and rawhide chews to dogs is the only completely guaranteed way to remove any risks associated with them, many dog owners may prefer not to stop offering these rawhide treats to their dogs.

If electing to continue to feed rawhide chews and rawhide bones to a dog, there are a few things that a dog owner can do to decrease the risk for their dog.

Always supervise a dog when allowing a dog to chew on a rawhide dog chew or rawhide dog bone.
Always remove the rawhide dog chew or rawhide dog bone from a dog's possession when the chew or bone becomes small enough for the dog to swallow.
Purchase top quality rawhide dog chews and rawhide dog bones produced within your country of origin to reduce the possibility of contamination.
Offer rawhide dog bones and rawhide dog chews which are appropriate for the individual dog's size and weight.
If a dog shows evidence of skin or gastrointestinal problems after chewing on rawhide chews or rawhide bones, consider discontinuing the rawhide product until the skin or gastrointestinal problems clear up.
If you wish to determine whether the rawhide bone or chew was the cause of the skin or gastrointestinal disease, reintroduce the rawhide bone or rawhide chew to the dog once healthy and observe for recurrence of medical issues. If skin or gastrointestinal problems repeat, this is strong evidence that the dog suffers from food intolerance or allergies related to the rawhide product and discontinuing the product permanently should be considered. This should only be attempted if the original complaint was mild and not life-threatening.

By taking some precautions when offering rawhide dog chews and rawhide dog bones, dog owners can considerably decrease the risk associated with feeding rawhide products to their dog.

However, dog owners should be aware that risks can never be completely eliminated when choosing to offer these rawhide chews and bones to a dog.

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Fri, 11 Dec 2009 17:40:00 +0000

Christmas is fast approaching and we need to take care of our four legged friends. Watch out that he doesn’t get in to harm with the Christmas tree and all of the sparkly decorations and beware of the little toys that come out of crackers.

Chocolate is a big ‘No No’! It is toxic so if you want to give your dog chocolate buy the doggy chocs from the pet shop.

Grapes and raisins contain an unknown toxin, which can damage the kidneys.

Turkey bones will do your dog a lot of harm and please make sure that the string round the turkey or joint is well out of harms way! It will smell and taste good but will do him serious harm.

If ingested, holly (leaves and berries) causes stomach upset and can be potentially fatal to both dogs and cats.

Mistletoe upsets stomachs and can cause heart collapse, while hibiscus may cause diarrhoea. Poinsettias have an irritating sap that can cause blistering in the mouth and stomach upset. So when you brighten up your home, place these plants well out of your dogs reach, or use imitation holiday plants.

Watch out for visiting toddlers who may not know how to behave around a dog.If you are having lots of visitors around respect the fact that he might not appreciate being mauled by all and sundry. Make sure he’s got somewhere to disappear to. Allow your dog to get out of the way if he wants to.

With all the other stresses going on think about preparing a treat for your dog a day or two before hand and pop it into the fridge/freezer so you’ve got it handy when you need it.

After that massive meal, leave someone else to do the washing up and take your dog for a walk. The fresh air will do you good and you and he will feel a lot better for it!

All the best from TTDS!

Christmas tree safety

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Wed, 02 Dec 2009 16:11:00 +0000

Many of you will decorate your homes with real or fake Christmas trees –Before you put the tree up, take a few moments to go over some safety precautions to ensure that your beautiful tree does not pose a danger to your pets.

1. Choose the Right Spot. Pick an area where the tree can be enjoyed by the family but not so much in the center of activity so that it can be easily knocked over. An area by the wall or in a corner is ideal and out of the traffic flow pattern of the house. Try to place the tree near an outlet so you don't have to run electrical cords long distances.

2. Prepare the Area. Lay down plastic sheeting. It will help you catch the falling pine needles when the season is over and you are removing the tree.

3. Secure the Tree. Many trees have been sent swaying by a rambunctious pup.

Dogs can knock over a tree by rubbing against or playing under it. Pets can be injured if the trees or ornaments fall and break. You can place the tree in a corner and secure it from two sides to small hooks in the walls. Another trick is to place a small hook in the ceiling above the tree and use clear fishing line from the top of the tree to the hook. Apply gentle tension and tie. The clear line is invisible.

4. Hide the Cords. We all love twinkling fairy lights on our trees, but electrical cords are a grave danger to pets – especially puppies who tend to chew on anything. Cords can cause electrocution and serious injury or even death. Secure the cords by positioning them higher than the pet can reach or hiding them with special covers. Don't put lights on lower branches where your puppy could reach them.

5. No Hooks. Check your ornaments and replace hooks with a loop of string tied in a knot. Ornaments often fall from the tree and pets may catch their mouths on or swallow the hooks.

6. Choose Safe Ornaments. There is no perfectly pet-safe bauble, as any ornament can be ingested and cause an intestinal obstruction. Glass baubles on the lower limbs can be especially dangerous. If broken, pets can step on them and cut their feet or worse yet – treat the ornament like a ball and chew on it causing it to break, resulting in mouth or throat trauma and bleeding. Many pet owners have learned the hard way not to place any ornaments on the lower limbs. Ornaments made of food may be especially attractive to pets. DO NOT PUT CHOCOLATE ORNAMENTS ON YOUR TREE – Chocolate is highly toxic to dogs.

7. Tinsel. Use ribbons to replace tinsel which if eaten by dogs may get caught in their intestine. Ingestion of this material can cause intestinal obstruction that may require surgery.

8. Presents. Dogs love to investigate and most don't understand that the presents are not meant to be opened before Christmas Day. Decorative ribbons and string can be ingested, and gifts can be destroyed by a playful pet. Consider storing the presents in a safe area until right before the holiday or make sure your pet is always supervised while investigating and searching for his special gift.

9. Sweep and Water. Sweep up the pine needles. Swallowing pine needles can cause vomiting and gastric irritation. Keep the tree watered and only turn the lights on when you are at home. Risk of fire is always there with a live tree. Do not allow your pet to drink the tree water

10. Supervise. The safest thing to do is to allow your pet access to the tree only when supervised. Pets that continue to want to bother the tree should be encouraged – using positive reinforcement – to leave it alone!

Dr Jon @ PetPLace.com

'People foods' that can harm or kill your pet

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 05:55:00 +0000

It feels good to treat your pet to human food every once in a while. Those puppy-dog eyes are hard to resist as they watch you eat and try to convince you that they are starving! It makes you want to give them a taste of everything you eat. But beware: Giving in to those eyes and giving dogs human foods can actually harm them.

Many foods we enjoy can be dangerous to animals. It's best to stick to pet food and a diet recommended by your vet. Here are a few of the most toxic foods that can harm your pet:

Bad news foods
Avocados

They contain a toxic component called persin, which can damage heart, lung and other tissue in many animals. This fruit is very toxic to dogs, cats and most animals.

Beer

Alcoholic beverages can cause the same damage to an animal's liver and brain as they cause in humans. But the effects can be deadly on animals since they are much smaller than us. The smaller the animal, the more deadly the effects can be. Even a small amount of alcohol may cause vomiting and damage the liver and brain.

Nuts

Walnuts and macadamia nuts are especially toxic. Effects can be anything from vomiting to paralysis to death. Within 12 hours of eating the nuts, pets start to develop symptoms such as an inability to stand or walk, vomiting, hyperthermia (elevated body temperature), weakness, and an elevated heart rate. These symptoms can be even worse if your dog eats some chocolate with the nuts. The effect can cause kidney failure, often leading to death.

Chocolate

Chocolate contains theobromine, which can kill your pet if eaten in large quantities. Dark and unsweetened baking chocolates are especially dangerous. Giving your pup a piece of chocolate cake or even letting him lick the chocolate icing on the cake could cause him to become ill. Theobromine can also cause a dog or cat's heart to beat very rapidly or irregularly, which could result in death if the pet is exercising or overly active. Please see "What is so bad about chocolate?" on the Tips page

Sweets

Sweets or anything containing artificial sweeteners as this can cause a sudden drop in an animal's blood sugar, loss of coordination and seizures. If left untreated, the animal could die.

Caffeine

Coffee, tea or any product that contains caffeine stimulates an animal's central nervous and cardiac systems. This can lead to restlessness, heart palpitations and death, depending on how much the animal consumes.

Grapes and raisins

Grapes and raisins can lead to kidney failure in dogs. As little as a single serving of raisins can kill them.

And the effects are cumulative, which means that even if a dog eats just one or two grapes or raisins regularly, the toxin that builds in his system will eventually kill him.

Onions

Onions are another common food that can be highly toxic to pets. They can destroy an animal's red blood cells and lead to anaemia, weakness and breathing difficulties. Their effects are also cumulative over time.

Medicine

Hide medicine from your pets just like you would from your children. The most common cause of pet poisoning is from animals ingesting a medicine or drug normally prescribed for humans.

And this is not just because furry pals are getting into their pet parent's medicine cabinets. In many cases, pet owners give their feline and canine friends an over-the-counter medication to ease an animal's pain. But acetaminophen and ibuprofen, the active ingredients in many common pain relievers, are extremely toxic to dogs and cats. They can cause gastric ulcers, liver damage, kidney failure and sometimes death.

Good news foods
There are a few things that you CAN give to your furry pal. However, you should always consult a veterinarian before introducing a new food item to your pet.

Although these foods are normally harmless, some animals have sensitive gastrointestinal tracts. So even these healthy treats should be avoided if they cause gastrointestinal upset for your pet. Keep in mind that these and other "extras" should not make up more than 5 to 10 percent of the pet's daily caloric intake.

Lean meats
Any cooked lean meat should be fine for most dogs. High-fat meats, chicken skin and fat from steaks or roasts are not recommended. Ingestion may lead to gastrointestinal upset or even pancreatitis. This can be a very painful condition for dogs. In addition, most companion animals do not need extra fat in their diets. Never give your pet meat with the bone in it. Animals can choke on the bones, and they can splinter as well.

Vegetables

Carrot sticks, green beans, cucumber slices and zucchini slices are all OK.

Fruit

Apple slices, orange slices,bananas and watermelon are all OK. Make sure the seeds have been taken out; seeds are not good for your pet!

Baked potatoes

Plain baked potatoes are fine, but make sure they are cooked — no unripe potatoes or potato plants.

Bread

Plain cooked bread is fine; just make sure there are no nuts or raisins added.

Rice and pasta

Plain, cooked pasta and white rice are OK. Often veterinarians recommend plain rice with some boiled chicken when gastrointestinal upset is present.

In case of emergency
Despite all the precautions you take to keep your pet pals safe, accidents do happen. Common signs of poisoning include muscle tremors or seizures; vomiting and diarrhoea; drooling; redness of skin, ears and eyes; and swelling and bleeding. If you suspect your pet has consumed, inhaled or come in contact with a toxic substance, stay calm and call for help immediately. If you see your pet consuming anything you think might be toxic, seek emergency help immediately from your vet even if she or he is not exhibiting any symptoms.It is better to be safe than sorry.

Kennel cough is doing the rounds again

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 08:53:00 +0000

There have been several cases of Kennel cough locally.

Kennel cough is a bronchitis characterized by a harsh, hacking cough which most people describe as sounding like "something stuck in my dog's throat." It is similar to a chest cold for humans and some strains are worse than others ( just like different flu viruses)

It is very contagious and is spread by droplet infection.Incubation is between 2 and 14 days.

Young,old and ailing dogs and dogs who may be under stress ( e.g in kennels or away from home) are particularly vulnerable.Most dogs get over it very quickly but sometimes older dogs,or dogs with weakened immune systems may get secondary infections ( just like humans can with colds developing in to bronchitis)

If you are unsure if your dog has contracted Kennel cough we would recommend that you seek veterinary treatment as soon as possible but please do advise the receptionist your suspicions as they may not want you in a busy waiting room with other dogs who may then contract it.

You will be advised to not allow your dog to mix freely with other dogs for anything up to 10 days.

The vaccine is administered up the nose as against injection but is quick and totally painless.

Note:Any vaccine takes days for immunity to develop.
Vaccinating on the day the dog is exposed may not be protective.Try to plan vaccination a few weeks before you need to put your dog in kennels to allow full immunity protection.

He's only playing - or is he?

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 15:27:00 +0000

Greetings Tip Toppers!
We found this article by Danielle Dickinson and Dee Scott which is very interesting and may help you understand dog body language a little more..........
(http://peticious.com/hes-only-playing-or-is-he-a-4939.html)

"He's only playing" - Or is he?

We've all seen it, Buster, the 18 month old Labrador. He's on his way to the park dragging his owner who can barely keep up, behind him on a lead. He's so excited that when he reaches the gate his owner can hardly get the lead off him. The second the lead is removed he races off, breaking a land speed record, straight into a group of dogs bowling them and their owners over. Another group of dogs capture Buster's attention and he dashes off to another area of the park leaving the bewildered dogs and owners in his wake. It seems Buster is on a mission to meet everyone at the park as quickly as possible.

He grabs dog's toys, taunts them, body slams and jumps all over his new found "friends", some who turn and growl or snap at him. He's oblivious to it all. Dog owners look anxiously over at Busters parents who simply smile and say "It's OK, he's only playing, he's just so happy to meet with other dogs". He may be only playing but a rude obnoxious dog only alienates those around him, human and canine. Now that's no way to make good friends

Buster's brand of play is unpleasant for most dogs. His hyperactivity and steamrolling gets him into trouble, and if he makes a new found friend he can't calm himself down enough to play nicely, so he bites chases and body slams, over and over again. This makes his friend nervous and he tries to tone Buster down a notch with submissive body language such as rolling on his side or back, tucking his tail underneath him or licking at Buster's mouth. When this fails Buster's friend becomes even more nervous and resorts, in self-defense, to threats such as growling, baring teeth or snapping the air. When Buster fails to recognize or simply ignores these cues a fight is sure to break out.

Buster has poor social skills and comes on way too strong. He is often unable to read the subtleties of dog body language much less deliver appropriate body language himself. Dogs, like humans, need to get to know one another before engaging in rough play. Buster would do well to engage in little precursory bum sniffing and play bowing before releasing his onslaught onto some poor, non-consenting dog.

When dogs play normally their body language includes play bows, happy faces, paw raises and clumsy, bouncy style movements. There are also frequent role reversals during fair play, play biting one and chasing another, just to name a few.

When observing dogs play, watch their body language and ask yourself the following questions:

1. Is my dog over-excited and/or annoying other dogs?

2. Is my dog the target of over-excited and/or annoying dogs?

3. Does my dog look scared or intimidated?

4. Does my dog's 'playmate' look scared or intimidated?

If you answer yes to any of the questions above, act swiftly to avoid the play spilling over into a fight. Remove your dog from the situation. If your dog is on the receiving end talk to the owner of the other dog, politely of course, and explain that your dog is uncomfortable or scared. If your dog is the perpetrator try removing him from the situation, distracting him, giving him a time out or, when all else fails, take him home.

Help is here NOW for dogs like Buster. Talk to your trainers today and get the support you need to make Buster a happy comfortable dog around the home and one who fits into the community.

Using a long line on your dog

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 14:34:00 +0000

Greetings Tip Toppers!

There maybe times we may need to use a "long line" on our dogs for all sorts of reasons.Maybe the recall has become a bit rusty - let's face it,they are only human after all and all sorts of environmental factors can sabotage even the best "come when called responses"

Possibly your dog has started being a bit "rude" and rushing up to other dogs or taken to saying "hello" to pushchairs!

What ever the reason here are a few do's and don'ts!

1/Get yourself a good quality long line about 30 foot in length,preferably with a comfortable handle.Long lines are usually lighter than the usual leashes.

2/ NEVER attach a long line to your dogs collar.This will cause jarring of your dogs neck if you suddenly pull or stand on the long line.

3/ NEVER attach it to a check/choke chain ( please note,Tip Top Dog School does not permit the use of these - but also note,if you are using one on your dog that there is a right and a wrong way to put them on your dog.The wrong way and you will choke your dog causing irreparable damage to your dogs neck and larynx)

4/ NEVER attach it to a head bridle,halti,gentle leader etc.If you do and you pull hard on the long line you will give your dog whip lash.

5/ Attach the long line to a good quality soft harness with a fastening on the back not the front.

6/Do not use the long line to "reel" the dog back in to you - this is not teaching him anything.Go and get him. Then make up your mind to actually decide to teach a proper recall - consider getting some professional help.

7/If the long line is dragging on the ground and the dog is running don't pick it up or else you will get rope burns.Instead tie some knots in the line so that you can step on it and you will then have a few gripping spots for your foot.

8/Do not use the long line to get your dog back to you to punish him.

9/ If you are letting the long line drag on the ground tie a bright piece of ribbon etc to the end so as that make is easier to see where the end is.

10/ The long line is not to be used for tethering your dog in the garden when unsupervised.

If things seem to be getting out of hand do not despair! Get some professional help to get things back on an even keel.The relationship that you have with your dog is so important and both of you deserve to have a good quality walks together.

Halloween safety tips

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 10:23:00 +0000

Greetings Tip Toppers!

Halloween is almost upon us! Just a few tips to keep your dog safe and happy over this busy time.

A lot of you have young dogs who have never experienced this time of year.The door bell will be ringing a lot more than usual so here are a few reminders.

1/ Get your dog out for a walk before the Trick or Treaters start knocking.Your dog may get frightened by the strange costumes and we don't want them feeling threatened and stressed and then barking at children.

Don't forget the kids are up to mischief and over excited.

If you are going Trick or Treating with the kids PLEASE leave the dog at home!

Any small objects or toys could get swallowed,cause choking or a blockage and the next thing we know is your dog has to go to the vet for an operation to remove the object.

3/ Make sure that every member of the family knows where the dog is before the front door is opened! The last thing we want is for your dog to rush out of the front door and end up under the wheels of a car.If you have a baby gate to keep your dog away from the door please use it - the same as if you have a hall with a door you can shut so that the front door can be opened with safety.

When you open the front door please do not have your dog with you.

Make it a rule of the house - " If you don't know where the dog is don't open the front door".

Enjoy your Halloween Festivities!

Sue and Barbara

Prepare your dog for fireworks

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 16:16:00 +0000

Greetings Tip Toppers!

We are approaching that time of the year again when dogs are exposed to the unpredictable loud bangs and flashes of fireworks. They simply don't understand what's going on and some are really scared. Unfortunately, they are now subjected to this on a more frequent basis – it's no longer a once a year event.

Many of your dogs and puppies will have no problems BUT your attitude WILL affect their future reactions and can make slight nervousness much more serious. If your dog/puppy shows any signs of fear:

Do NOT try to pat and stroke him in an attempt to soothe him if he is showing signs of stress. This simply rewards how he is behaving and teaches him that he's right to be scared. Don't let him know that you're concerned. In fact simply try to act as if nothing unusual or untoward is happening.

Safety Precautions for ALL dogs – even the most bomb-proof CAN panic

· Take the time to do a house safety check and keep all doors and windows closed.

· Make sure that there is no access to potentially dangerous items around the house, such as open fires or glass doors.

· Choose safe times for exercise and elimination - don’t walk your dog or allow them in the garden when fireworks are likely to go off. If he really has to go outside – make sure that he is kept safely on the lead, DON'T JUST LET HIM OUT IN THE GARDEN ON HIS OWN.

· Don’t go out and leave him alone if you can possibly avoid it.

· Just in case your dog escapes make sure he is wearing a collar at all times with an up to date ID tag

If you know that your dog is scared of fireworks, or you have a new dog who is sound sensitive

NOW IS THE TIME TO PREPARE!

Here are a few things you can try:

Desensitisation

A CD is now available, which simulates the noise of fireworks. It should be played several weeks prior to the fireworks season, slowly building up the volume and length of time it is played. Your dog may then gradually become used to the noises and begin to ignore them, but unfortunately some dogs completely discriminate between live fireworks and a CD.

Distraction

Whilst playing the CD, try to distract your dog. Either play with him, or give him some training lessons, or give him his favourite toy/kong/chew. This will increase the effect of the desensitisation program by making your dog think about something else pleasurable whilst the background noise is going on.

Also allow your pet some time without this distraction to hear the CD.

Den

Create a safe, comfortable and quiet den area for him. Ideally, this should be in a place which is furthest from the fireworks, and where he is used to resting. The curtains should be closed to hide the firework flashes.

Prepare the area in advance, with lots of comfy blankets for him to burrow into if he wants to, and take him there several times before the event, allowing him to settle there with a chew or toy or a delicious stuffed Kong for a while, and feed him there a few times too.

Make sure however, that he is free to come and go to this area, taking care not to lock him in the room alone.

Some dogs find the most unusual place to seek comfort. It has been known for them to hide under desks, in kitchen cabinets and even in the bath!.

So, really take some time to think about this – from your pet's point of view - and set up the area where they are most happy. Let him get used to his den for a few weeks before the fireworks start.

DAP

If you already know that your dog is scared and that he needs some further help then using a DAP Diffuser along with the CD could be very useful. DAP stands for Dog Appeasing Pheromone. It's a plug in device, similar to an air freshener, which releases calming pheromones into the air. It should be plugged in, in the room where the pet spends most time and switched on 24 hours a day for about 2 weeks prior to the fireworks.

T-Shirts

This may seem strange but Tellington-Touch practitioners recommend that a fearful dog can be helped by wearing a stretchy T-shirt, available from Equafleece. Presumably the swaddling effect is comforting.

D-Day

· Check that the den area is accessible, and prepared.

· Take your dog for an early walk to make sure he has been to the toilet before the fireworks start.

· Feed him an hour before the event, adding some potato or white pasta to fill him up and make him sleepy

· Play some music in the room. This can help to mask out the noise, so turn it up to a moderate level. Check during the weeks running up to firework season what sort of music he likes – most dogs are happy with tuneful Classical but yours might be more keen on Hard Rock!

· When the fireworks start, take your dog to his den area and encourage him to settle there.

· If he's not settling in his den, try to distract him with a game or an easy training session, but don't force him to play.

· You may even want to consider setting up a TV in the "safe" room and simply sitting in there with him. Normal quiet, family company may help to calm him – if he takes comfort from cuddling up close to you - don't push him away but DON'T sympathise or pet him. YOU have to be the strong, brave leader who sees/hears nothing to worry about – including him. It's hard to ignore a frightened, trembling creature BUT YOU HAVE TO, or you will make things worse.

N.B If your dog shows signs of severe stress in spite of all your preparation PLEASE SEEK VETERINARY ADVICE – there are medications which can help.

All the best from TTDS!

The Country Code

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 15:02:00 +0000

Dog Walkers Warned to Clue Up on Countryside Code

Dog owners have been warned by the Kennel Club to get clued up on the Countryside Code, in a bid to prevent more tragic deaths occurring over the summer months in the countryside.

Dog owners have a responsibility under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act to keep their dogs on a lead in the vicinity of livestock. The Kennel Club is concerned that the recent incidents involving stampeding cattle, which have been spooked by dogs and walkers, will increase unless dog owners get to grips with what is expected of them in the countryside.

Legally, dog owners are not required to use a lead on public paths as long as the dog is under close control, but the Kennel Club advises that dog owners always clip on the lead if they cannot rely on their dog's obedience since a barking or running dog will attract the attention of livestock.

Owners should never let a dog approach or chase wildlife and farm animals – there is a serious possibility of getting kicked or trampled, and in extreme cases dogs may be shot by landowners for chasing livestock. At certain times, dogs are not allowed in some areas to protect sensitive breeding sites – dog-owners should follow the signs.

Kennel Club Communications Director Caroline Kisko said: "More and more people are venturing out into the countryside with their dogs over the summer months, but those who live in urban areas might have a potentially dangerous lack of knowledge about what they need to do to keep both them and their dog safe.

"Just as you would take precautions around busy roads and crowds of people in towns, dog owners also have a responsibility under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act to keep their dogs on a lead in the vicinity of livestock. The countryside is for all to enjoy but dog owners must be respectful of this issue when walking their dog. Young cattle are naturally curious and are particularly interested in dogs so avoiding fields with cattle grazing is a sensible precaution.

"If cattle turn on your dog, the best advice is to follow the Countryside Code - do not risk getting hurt by trying to protect you dog. Unclip its lead and get out of the field as quickly as possible – most dogs can run faster than their owner and will get out of harm's way – then call your dog as soon as you are out of danger."

Earlier this year, the Kennel Club teamed up with Peak District National Park rangers and rural police to remind pet owners that, by law, they must keep their dogs under control so that they do not scare farm animals and wildlife. It is also important to leave gates as you find them when walking through the countryside.

For more information on the countryside code and access visit http://www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk/

Giardia and your dog and other causes of diarrhea

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Sun, 19 Jul 2009 11:28:00 +0000

There are many reasons that your dog may develop sickness and diarrhea - sometimes it may be that your dog has been scavenging to some underlying infection.Never let a bout of diarrhea go on for too long - especially in puppies.Any sign of lethargy get your pup or dog to the vet immediately for treatment and diagnosis - it may well save it's life.Puppies can get dehydrated very quickly.

Giardia is a protozoan parasite found all over the world. It infects humans, many domestic animals and birds. Giardia lives in the intestinal tract and infection may be asymptomatic or can result in gastrointestinal symptoms.

Giardia infections (called Giardiasis) show no gender or breed predilection but are most common in young animals and in animals under close confinement, such as those in kennels, animal shelters and pet stores.

Most cases of Giardia infection in humans arise from person-to-person contact or from contaminated water, but animals do harbor strains of Giardia that are infectious to humans and animal-to-human transmission theoretically is possible.

What to Watch For

Diarrhea

Vomiting

Weight loss

Flatulence (excessive gas)

Diagnosis

Veterinary care should include diagnostic tests and subsequent recommendations.

Direct fecal smears to look for two different stages of the Giardia organism called "cysts" or "trophozoites." A positive direct smear results in a conclusive diagnosis of Giardiasis, but direct fecal smears may be negative in infected animals.

A zinc sulfate concentration test to identify Giardia cysts.

An enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) test to identify Giardia antigens in the stool.

Direct immunofluoresence test to identify Giardia cysts in feces.

Collection of samples from the duodenum (first part of the small intestine) during endoscopy and examination for Giardia trophozoites.

Treatment

Treatment for pets with Giardia infection may include one or more of the following drugs:

Metronidazole

Fenbendazole

A combination of praziquantel, pyrantel and febantel

Home Care and Prevention

Administer as directed all medications prescribed by your veterinarian. All of the prescribed medication should be given to insure elimination of the infection. A high-fiber diet may improve stool consistency in pets with diarrhea associated with Giardia infection.

Decontamination of the environment is an important part of preventing infection. In multiple-dog households and in situations in which animals are under close confinement (e.g. kennels, animal shelters, pet stores), proper sanitation is crucial to prevent cross-contamination from one animal to another. All fecal material must be removed from cages, runs and yards. Kennels must be cleaned with appropriate disinfectants and totally dried before allowing pets access to them.

All animals should be treated with appropriate medication before being introduced into a multiple-animal environment.

Bathing animals before introducing them into an uncontaminated environment allows for removal of feces and infective cysts from the hair coat.

Pet owners should remove feces from the yard, avoid allowing their dog to drink from streams and lakes, and regularly bath the animal to remove any feces from the hair coat.

A vaccine designed to aid in the prevention of disease caused by Giardia recently has been developed (GiardiaVax®).

The protozoan parasite Giardia occurs in two forms. The active (motile) form that lives and multiplies in the intestinal tract is called a "trophozoite." It can be recognized under the microscope by its characteristic appearance, which looks somewhat like a monkey face with two eyes and a nose. The trophozoite only lives in the intestine and cannot survive in the environment for any significant length of time. The other form is called a cyst and is the infective form of the parasite. Each cyst contains two completely formed trophozoites inside of it. Cysts can remain viable in the environment for many months and can cause infection if conditions are cool and moist.

Dogs are infected by ingesting cysts in the environment. Most infections arise from contaminated water, such as puddles, streams, lakes, shallow wells and water contaminated by feces.

Giardia causes disease by damaging the small intestine, which leads to maldigestion (inability to break down nutrients properly) and malabsorption (inability to properly absorb digested nutrients). Giardia also increases intestinal motility, thus decreasing the amount of time the intestine can digest and absorb nutrients. Increased intestinal motility may be manifested by flatulence and diarrhea.

The most common symptom of Giardia infection is diarrhea but there are many other causes of diarrhea. Some examples include:

Dietary disturbances: sudden changes in diet, overfeeding, dietary indiscretion, like getting into the garbage and eating too many table scraps.

Drugs: aspirin and similar non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs such as ibuprofen; many antibiotics; anti-cancer drugs; heavy metals (lead, arsenic) and insecticides.

Other parasites including worms (hookworms, roundworms, whipworms, tapeworms) and protozoa (coccidia, Entamoeba, Trichomonas, Balantidium)

Viruses: parvovirus, coronavirus

Bacteria: Salmonella, Campylobacter, Clostridium, E.coli

Obstruction of the intestinal tract by foreign bodies

Tumors of the intestinal tract

Mechanical obstruction of the intestinal tract caused by volvulus (twisting of the intestine) or intususception (telescoping of the intestine on itself)

Metabolic disorders such as kidney failure, liver failure and hypoadrenocorticism

Diagnostic tests are needed to identify giardiasis and exclude other diseases. Tests may include:A complete medical history and a thorough physical examination. Specific diagnostic tests will be needed for your veterinarian to diagnose giardiasis in your pet.

Direct examination of a fecal smear under the microscope. The trophozoites are more likely to be seen in diarrhea and the parasite can be recognized by its rapid forward motion. Cysts are more likely to be found in semi-formed feces. It takes considerable expertise to be able to recognize cysts.

Fecal enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) test to detect substances given off by the trophozoites in feces. Your veterinarian may be able to perform the test in the office or may send a fecal sample to a laboratory that conducts the test.

Zinc sulfate concentration test.

A fecal sample is mixed with a zinc sulfate solution in a test tube and, after a few minutes of processing, Giardia cysts (if present) will float to the top of the solution where they can be collected and identified under the microscope. If this test is performed on three separate fecal samples from the same dog, it will detect Giardia more than 96 percent of the time in infected animals.

Treatment In-depth

Several drugs have been used to treat Giardia infections in pets. Anti-parasitic drugs are the most important part of treatment, but additional measures such as adding fiber to the diet can improve stool consistency and hasten your pet's recovery. Specific treatments include:

Metronidazole is an antibiotic that has been widely used to treat Giardia in dogs as well as in people. This drug has reasonable efficacy against Giardia and has the added advantage of being effective against other parasitic protozoa and some bacteria that may also have contributed to the diarrhea. Adverse effects on the nervous system have occurred with high doses.

Fenbendazole is a de-worming medication that kills common parasitic worms such as hookworms, roundworms and whipworms. When given at the usual dosage, fenbendazole is also very effective against Giardia. Fenbendazole is very safe and fairly inexpensive.

The combination of praziquantel, pyrantel and febantel is another de-worming medication used against parasitic worms, such as hookworms, roundworms, whipworms and tapeworms. Recent studies show that it also is effective against Giardia. Treatment only has to be given for three consecutive days. The drug, however, is a somewhat expensive.

Source http://www.petplace.com/dogs/giardia-in-dogs/page1.aspx

Using "Dominance" to explain dog behaviour is old hat

noreply@blogger.com (Tip Top Dog School) — Sun, 05 Jul 2009 17:17:00 +0000

A new study shows how the behaviour of dogs has been misunderstood for generations.

The findings challenge many of the dominance related interpretations of behaviour and training techniques suggested by current TV dog trainers.

According to research published by academics at the University of Bristol's Department of Clinical Veterinary Sciences,contrary to popular belief, aggressive dogs are NOT trying to assert their dominance over their canine or human pack.

The researchers spent six months studying dogs freely interacting at a Dogs Trust rehoming centre,and reanalysing data from studies of feral dogs,before concluding that individual relationships between dogs are learnt through experience rather than motivated by a desire to assert dominance.

The academics are saying that training approaches aimed at dominance reduction vary from being worthless to being actually dangerous and likely to make behaviours worse.

Instructing owners to eat before their dog or go through doors first will not influence the dog's overall perception of the relationship and merely teach them what to expect in these specific situations.

Please note - we teach "door manners", as in, dog waits at the front door until told to go through, as a safety measure - it can stop a dog getting run over.

Much worse,techniques such as pinning the dog to the floor,grabbing jowls, blasting hooters and throwing things will make dogs anxious,often about their owner,and potentially lead to an escalation of aggression.

Dr Rachel Casey,Senior Lecturer in Companion Animal Behaviour and Welfare, said "The blanket assumption that every dog is motivated by some inane desire to control people and other dogs is frankly ridiculous.It hugely underestimates the complex communicative and learning abilities of dogs.It also leads to the use of coercive training techniques,which compromise welfare,and actually cause problem behaviours".