Using an adjustable hosel driver or simply ordering custom specs from a big golf company are in no way the same type of fitting referred to as FULL SPECIFICATIONS PROFESSIONAL CUSTOM FITTING.  Full specifications custom clubfitting means fitting and custom building each one of the woods, irons and wedges for all 13 of the KEY fitting specifications.  Not 1 or 2 clubs with 2 or 3 of the key fitting specs altered within a very limited range.  Nothing less than full specs fitting will allow a golfer the greatest opportunity to experience measurable game improvement.

How do you find professional custom clubfitter who can fit for all 13 of the key fitting specifications for each club in the bag?  Your odds are very slim in a big retail golf chain store.  It’s not likely to be found in a golf course pro shop either.  And that’s sad to say because of the large number of golfers who frequent big retail golf stores and pro shops.

You’ll find the best custom clubfitters typically working solo in their own small, independent golf shop.  And yes for sure, because professional custom clubfitting is a “cottage industry”, you can also find a very good custom clubfitter working from the basement or garage of their home.  In fact, there have been past winners of the industry’s Clubfitter of the Year award who operate their fitting business from a shop in their home.

If you want to be fit the RIGHT way by a person with real knowledge and skill in professional Clubfitting, there are three places you can go to find out if there is a good, experienced clubfitter in your area.

• www.agcpgolf.com/locator/

This is the Clubmaker locator of the Association of Golf Clubfitting Professionals. The AGCP is one of the two trade organizations of professional custom clubmaker/clubfitters. The AGCP consists of the best of the best of the independent custom clubmakers in the world. In short, if you are fit by an AGCP Clubmaker, you most definitely will have been fit by a very good, very knowledgeable person.

• http://www.clubmakersguild.com/index.php/member-directory

This is the member directory for the International Clubmakers’ Guild, the second of the two trade organizations of professional custom clubmaker/clubfitters. Many of the ICG clubmakers came from the former Professional Clubmakers’ Society and also represent people with a lot of experience in full specifications custom Clubfitting. In addition, the ICG offers accreditation certification so when you find an accredited ICG member, you have found a very good person you can trust to fit you properly.

• http://wishongolf.com/find-a-clubfitter/

This is the link to my company’s Clubmaker Locator. These are clubmakers that we have screened, that we know, and in many cases that I have personally trained in the past to offer golfers a full specifications, professional fitting experience.

Between all three links, most golfers should be able to find a competent clubfitter within a reasonable distance to where they live.  Of course, there will be areas of the country not served by a full specifications custom clubfitter.  But I can tell you if you are interested in having your clubs fit so that you have the most chance of game improvement and the best chance to play to the very best of your given ability, that’s going to happen from a Clubmaker you’ll find through one of these three sources and not through a big retail golf store or pro shop.

-Tom

Related posts:

1. Custom Clubfitting – What Kind of Car Wash Do You Want?
2. Are The Adjustable Drivers The Same As Being Custom Fit?
3. Can My Current Clubs be Custom Fit for Me?

Of the separate pieces which make up the complete clubhead, one is always the clubface. Within such types of driver, fairway wood and hybrid head construction, the face can be formed to be welded to the body in two different ways, one called an EDGE WELDED face and the other referred to as a CUP FACE CONSTRUCTION.

The above illustration shows the more common of the two, an edge welded face. In the edge welded face clubhead, the face is made so that as the term states, the welding line to secure the face piece to the head body is on the very edge of the face. To contrast, the cup face is formed in a manner so the face piece is more like a cup, meaning it could hold water because the edges are angled around the face surface. In a cup face construction, the welding line to secure the cup face to the head body is not on the edge of the face, but is rather some distance back from the edge of the face. Below is an illustration of a cup face construction to contrast against the above edge welded face design.

The purpose of a cup face construction is to improve the amount of face flexing for areas off the center of the face to achieve better distance, performance and feel from off center hits. In modern clubface performance, the more the face flexes inward, the higher the speed of the ball will be coming off the face.

With an edge welded face, a portion of the actual welding bead that secures the face to the body is extends past the actual seam onto the rear surface of the face. This welding bead can extend ¼” onto the back of the face, all 360* around the face. It can act as an additional “stiffener” or “brace” to prevent the face from flexing as much inward for shots hit off the center of the face.

Since the welding line on a cup face construction is well back from any portion of the face, this means the welding bead is nowhere near any portion of the face. In addition, the inside edge of the face is more curved so there is no additional agent causing resistance to the face flexing inward. Below is a photo showing an actual cup face 4-piece driver head on which the pieces of the head and the cup face have just been initially tack welded to position the pieces for full robotic welding.

There is no question maximum ball speed comes only from impact in the center or slightly above the center of the face. But with a cup face construction, and with a variable thickness cup face construction, in contrast with a uniform thickness edge welded face, the off center hit performance can be improved remarkably.

-Tom

Related posts:

1. Driver Clubhead Size and Performance – Who Wins?
2. What’s the Big Deal About a Variable Thickness Face?

Unfortunately, not all of us can master these very precise, simultaneous swing movements to get more spin from our swing technique.

From an equipment standpoint, there most definitely are wedges which are manufactured with differences in the surface of the clubface and differences in the scorelines which can generate more backspin, even in the hands of a less skilled golfer. What actually causes backspin form the standpoint of the clubhead?

First and foremost, anything done to the face of the club that increases the friction between the clubface and the surface of the ball will increase backspin, no matter what your swing technique.

Number one is how rough is the flat area on the clubface in between the scorelines? Wedges made with a milled face create more friction than wedges without face milling. Wedges which are heavily sand blasted will create more friction than wedges with a smoother face treatment or wedges which are old, worn and used. Before 1990, the faces of most irons and wedges were sand blasted with aluminum oxide sand. Since then the industry changed to silicon glass bead blasting because it looked cleaner and more “pretty”. Bead blast faces simply are not as rough as were the old aluminum oxide sand blasted faces. So unless the face is milled, modern irons and wedges with glass bead blasted faces will not spin the ball as much as will wedges blasted with aluminum oxide sand.

If you have cast stainless wedges and you have a friend with sand blast equipment, tape off the areas of the head not to be blasted and have your friend do a fresh blast with aluminum oxide sand. You won’t believe the difference you’ll experience in spin. If you play a lot of golf, get him to re-blast the faces every 4 months because face blasting wears down quickly from hitting balls.

Second to the roughness of the flat area between grooves is the sharpness of the top scoreline edge as well as the number of scorelines on the face. Unfortunately, the USGA/R&A have a rule which limits how sharp the edges of scorelines can be. And clever that they are, this limit for groove edge sharpness has been changed to be very, well, UN sharp. Much more rounded in other words.

But it still is legal in the rules to change the width and the spacing of scorelines so that you can design a wedge with more scorelines on the face. What that can mean is more top edges of more lines in contact with the surface of the ball.

This is precisely why I designed the Micro-Groove™ scorelines for my company’s wedges. Normal scorelines are 0.8mm wide and spaced apart by either 2.6mm or 2.8mm. Do that and you get the edges of 3 scorelines on the surface of the ball at impact. But the rules allow us to make each line more narrow. In addition, the rules say the spacing between lines cannot be less than 3 times the width of the lines.

The Micro-Groove scorelines I designed are 0.6mm wide and spaced 2.1mm apart. What that does is put the edges of 5 lines in contact with the surface of the ball at impact. And that slightly increases the friction between the face and the ball, which in turn means a little more spin.

Bottom line – if you want more spin, use milled face wedges first. Use heavily SAND blasting on the face second, and third, use a more narrow, closer spaced scoreline design. Do that and you will spin the ball to the maximum extent your swing technique will allow.

-Tom

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1. The Wedge – The Scoring Weapon of Tour Players

In a nutshell, if they can be sure it will sell enough to far exceed the cost of development and marketing, you can be absolutely sure the golf companies will make it. They’re all in the business of making money. That’s why if you don’t see any smaller size drivers being offered, the companies are sure the demand is just not going to be significant enough to merit the introduction of a smaller size driver. Period.

Way too many golfers still believe that “bigger is better” when it comes to driver head performance to allow companies to spend the money to develop a smaller size model.

From a pure performance standpoint, the larger the size of a clubhead, the higher its Moment of Inertia could be. In turn that means the larger the head, the better it’s off center hit performance could be. Likewise, the larger the size of the head, the larger the face area could be. Larger size face does not mean a higher COR for more distance because we all know it is eminently possible to reach the USGA’s limit on spring face capability on a face that would be commensurate with a sub 400cc size driver head. But a larger size face can make it easier to design a variable thickness face that could offer a very high level of off center hit performance.

Bottom line though is that it very definitely is possible to make a driver head with a volume of 380cc to 400cc that would perform every bit as well for distance and off center hit performance as any of the 460cc heads currently on the market. Yes, the 460cc head’s MOI would likely be higher, but not by so much that it could bring about a noticeable improvement in off center hit performance. MOI modeling studies for TWGT have shown that a difference of 1400 g/cm2 in the MOI of a driver head, basically the difference between a 360cc and 460cc volume head, offers only a difference of ¼ of 1 degree in resistance to off center hit head twisting. And that’s for a golfer with a 109mph clubhead speed. For golfers with a 100mph and lower swing, the additional off center hit improvement from a 1400 g/cm2 difference in MOI is even less.

Hence if all the golf companies could be convinced enough golfers would buy the smaller size driver to make it worth the expense to develop and introduce it, golfers would not skip a beat in terms of the performance they could achieve with a smaller size head. It’s all a matter of supply and demand – and right now there is just not enough demand to generate a supply.

-Tom

Related posts:

1. 3 Key Specifications of Driver Fitting
2. 3 Critical Keys to Increasing Driver Distance

But playing smart golf isn’t always about studying each hole to know which club to hit when and where to aim it.  It’s also about what complement of clubs you choose to play, something in the world of custom clubfitting which is called being custom fit with the right “Set Makeup.”

Remember, the Rules of Golf say you can only carry 14 “weapons of grass destruction.”  Fortunately they don’t tell you WHAT 14 clubs you can put in your golf bag.  That’s where smart golfers who avail themselves of professional custom clubfitting can gain a lot of game improvement assistance to give themselves a little better shot in their battle against par.

Set Makeup starts with a couple of common sense principles. . .

• Make it a goal to not put any club in your bag that you cannot hit solid, on-center and in play less than 80% of the time.
• Make sure each of the 13 tee to green clubs hits the ball a distinctively different distance with reasonably even gaps in distance between.

Now, for more specifics.  What makes any club hard to hit solid, on-center and in play 80% or more of the time?  Please remember this old and true statement about golf clubs; “the longer the length, the less the loft, the heavier the weight and the stiffer the shaft, the harder the club will be to hit.”

Driver:  The driver is the lightest club in your bag.  But it is also the longest and typically has the lowest loft.  If you’re not at the 80%+ level with your driver, go get custom fit for a shorter length and second, go with a little more loft.  If you do, you’ll be knocking at the door of that >80% level for good shots sooner than you think.

Fairway Woods:  Smart golf says the main purpose of the fairway woods is to be your next longest hitting clubs after the driver.  If you are not at the 80% level with your fairway woods, go shorter in length and do not keep trying to hit the low loft of the 3-wood.  Use more loft, like a 4 or 5-wood to become your second longest hitting wood after the driver.

Long and Middle Irons:  It’s great that the golf industry has given us three different options here to find that >80% hitting success level?  But first, throw out your conventional 3-iron, 4-iron and yes, your 5-iron too.  For some of you, add the 6-iron to that list as well.  Modern low lofts on these irons has made them very difficult for the majority of golfers to hit consistently well.  Next, figure out whether you hit a high lofted wood or a hybrid the same distance as if you could hit that conventional 3-, 4-, 5-, and 6-iron perfectly, and go with that as your lower loft iron replacement clubs.

Short Irons:  We’ll hope since these are the shortest and most lofted of the full swing clubs, you are not in a conundrum of less than 80% success with these clubs.  If so, you might want to think about changing away from swingweight matching of your irons to MOI matching.  A whole lot of golfers have reported an improvement in accuracy and consistency with their MOI matched sets.

Wedges:  The key to the right wedge set makeup is to first pick the complement of wedges to match best with your type of grass along with the green and sand trap design of your golf course.  The smaller, faster, firmer, higher and more undulating the greens on your course, the more wedges you might want to use.  In addition, choose the sole width and sole bounce angle that best matches the grass and sand conditions on your course.  Longer grass, more moist lush turf, fluffier, loose sand = more bounce sole angle and/or a wider sole.  Thin grass, hardpan, tight packed heavy sand = more narrow sole and or less bounce sole angle.

If you think about professional custom clubfitting for your equipment needs, then you have taken the first step toward playing smart golf!   Hesitate no longer… go and find yourself a custom Clubmaker, and knock on the door of that 80+% level for your shots!

-Tom

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1. Just How DOES Professional Clubfitting Allow a Golfer to Play Better?

I also believe the latest entry on such a list should include hybrid clubs, but only if the hybrids are correctly fit to golfers for the purpose of truly taking their place as a part of each golfer’s iron set, rather than to simply be an alternative to a fairway wood or a club which still leaves distances on the course for which the golfer has no easy to hit club.

What do I mean?

The golf industry’s practice of ever decreasing the loft of irons over the past thirty years has gotten to the point that the vast majority of golfers do not possess the ability to hit the 3-, 4- and even the 5-iron consistently enough to even merit having the clubs in their bag.

This condition of “shrinking loft disease” in the irons most certainly is what has opened the door to allow hybrid clubs to step in to offer a truly positive solution for golfers who find the modern #3, 4 and 5 irons more difficult to hit consistently well.  Unfortunately, because hybrid clubs sold off the shelf run the gauntlet in terms of lengths and lofts, simply buying hybrid clubs off the shelf will not bring about the best possible results for all golfers.  Some hybrids are built the same length as fairway woods.  Most are made to lengths in between those of the longer irons and fairway woods, while few are offered in the same lengths as the low loft conventional irons that need to be replaced.

The most effective way to custom fit every golfer for hybrid clubs is to start by fitting the golfer for hybrids with the same length and the same loft as the irons the golfer finds difficult to hit consistently well.  Most golfers will find it very helpful to replace the 5-iron with a hybrid as well.  By custom fitting the hybrids to the same length and loft as the irons being replaced, not only will the golfer have a club for each shot distance they may encounter, they will also have clubs that truly will eliminate the problems caused by “shrinking loft disease” in the irons.

-Tom

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1. Putter Fitting – The Most Important Club to Custom Fit
2. Iron Fitting – Iron Out The Details
3. Why Can I Hit This Club But Not That Club?

The R flex from one company may have the same stiffness as the S flex from another company, or the A flex from yet some other company.   The result is a lot of golfers walk away from their club buying experience without the right fit for the shafts in their new clubs.

Accurate shaft fitting has to consist of four important steps:

1. Measure the driver and middle-iron swing speeds of the golfer.  The golfer’s swing speed measurements must then be compared not to letter codes for flexes, but to a technically accurate list of swing speed ratings of many different shafts.
2. Fit the weight of the shaft to the physical strength and aggressiveness of the golfer’s downswing move at the ball.  Strong golfer + aggressive downswing transition + fast downswing tempo = heaver shaft weight (>85g woods, >115g irons).  Less strong golfer + more passive downswing transition force and smooth tempo = very light shaft weight (<65g woods, <65-75g irons).  In between these extremes for the golfer strength and downswing tempo = medium shaft weight (70-80g woods, 75-85g irons).
3. Adjust the swing speed rating of the shaft to the intensity of the golfer’s downswing transition move.  Very aggressive transition move to start the downswing = choosing a shaft with a swing speed rating slightly higher than the golfer’s swing speed measurement.  Very smooth and easy transition to the downswing = a shaft with a swing speed rating slightly lower than the golfer’s swing speed.
4. Choose the shaft’s Bend Profile Design (distribution of stiffness over the length of the shaft) to match the golfer’s unhinging of the wrist-cock angle on the downswing, also called the release.  The bend profile of a shaft is how its stiffness can be distributed over the length of the shaft.  For golfers with a late release, shafts with a tip firm bend profile (the tip end is the smaller end of the shaft) are a better fit.  Golfers who release the wrist cock angle early in the downswing need shafts with more flexibility in the tip design.  In between with the release means a tip medium bend profile.

One last point to guide your shaft fitting; the later the wrist cock release and more aggressive the downswing, the more the shaft becomes a vital component of performance in the club.  The earlier the release and less aggressive the swing tempo, the weight of the shaft becomes far more important for the golfer than the stiffness design for shot performance.  The only way for all golfers to find the best shaft for their swing is through professional custom clubfitting.   Be sure to FIND A CLUBFITTER that incorporates extensive shaft fitting into their overall clubfitting service.

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1. What Shaft is the Best for Me?
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Iron Lengths and Length Increments

The starting length of the combined hybrid/iron set starts with a measurement of the golfer’s wrist to floor dimension.  Final length is then a process of swing evaluation to determine the maximum length each golfer can control while still being able to address and swing at the ball with complete comfort.

Once the starting length is determined, there is no rule that says all the irons have to be made in the usual half-inch increments seen on all irons sold off the shelf.  Most golfers who measure for longer length irons can find much better iron consistency and maintain the most consistent swing posture when the iron length increments are altered to 3/8”.

Iron Shaft Fitting

Golfers of average to below average strength or golfers with a smoother swing tempo who have always played heavier weight steel iron shafts (110-130g) can find more comfort as well as a few more yards in distance from switching to a much lighter weight graphite iron shaft (60-85g).  Measuring the golfer’s swing speed and observing their downswing force and point of wrist cock release allows the golfer to find the best performing shaft flex and bend profile (distribution of stiffness) in the shafts.

Iron Swingweight (Iron to Iron Weight Matching)

All golfers need to find the right headweight feel to match to their sense of swing timing, rhythm and tempo to be able to achieve the highest level of on centre hit consistency.  But let me clue you into a totally new replacement for conventional swingweight matching that is proving itself to be a better way to make all the clubs swing with the same feel and effort – MOI Matching.

Unlike swingweight matching, making the irons to each have the same exact Moment of Inertia will make each club so it requires the same effort to swing.  If you’d like to experience what MOI matching can do for your or any golfer’s shot consistency, use lead tape to make your irons follow a progressive, half-swingweight point increase per club down through the set.  Interested professionals can read more about MOI matching as a replacement for swingweight matching.

Iron Lie Fitting

What more be said?  Every golfer must have the lie angles of their irons dynamically fit and adjusted to ensure the centre of the sole is the point of contact with the ground.  Not static lie fitting, but dynamic lie fitting so every variable from the swing is accounted for to ensure the proper lie angle for each iron.  Failure to do so is a ticket to missing more greens.

Overall, the proper custom Iron fitting analysis can make a big difference for golfers and can bring about more greens hit in regulation as well as a lower score.

-Tom

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1. Putter Fitting – The Most Important Club to Custom Fit
2. 3 Key Specifications of Driver Fitting
3. Who Benefits the Most from Professional Custom Fitting?

Because of their superior athletic and kinetic skills, low handicap golfers could play almost as well with quite a wide variety of different golf club specifications.  Middle and high handicap golfers do not have the same level of athletic coordination or control over their swing motions, so custom fitting stands as a way for average golfers to,  1) gain immediate benefit in their shotmaking performance,  2) benefit more from swing coaching advice because clubs which are better fit to the golfer can make it easier for the golfer to make swing changes advised in a lesson.

Following is a list of the custom fitting parameters that are extremely important for middle to high handicap players to investigate to get the most out of their games:

1. Club Length

The length of your clubs is one of the most critical fitting parameters that can mean success or failure in hitting the ball solid and on center.  Being able to successfully hit longer length clubs requires a very high level of athletic and swing ability.  It is of UTMOST IMPORTANCE that middle and high handicap players be properly fit for the right length which will result in their ability to control the clubs more easily, and from that, increase their percentage of solid, on-center hits.

2. Iron Lie Angles

If all golfers were the same height, had the same arm length and swung the club the same way, the standard lie angles designed on the clubs bought “off the shelf” would be fine.  But golfers are very different in their size, strength, athletic ability and swing characteristics.  If golfers want to eliminate the inevitability of an improperly fit lie angle causing off-line shots, every golfer must be custom fit for the lie angle of the irons and wedges.  Every golfer.

3. Woodhead Face Angle

Middle and high handicap golfers typically cannot deliver the clubface square to the ball as often as can a low handicap player.  Custom fitting the face angle of the woods will reduce a mis-direction tendency and definitely allow the middle to high handicap golfer to keep the ball more in play a much higher percentage of the time.

4. Driver and Wood Loft

It is estimated that at least 90% of all middle and high handicap golfers are not playing with enough loft on their driver to fully maximize their distance off the tee.  If your driver swing speed is 90mph or lower, 90% of you are going to need a driver loft of 12, 13 or 14 degrees to be able to achieve the launch angle that will keep the ball in the air long enough to carry the ball as far as your swing speed will allow.  See the accompanying chart for a very general recommendation of driver loft vs swing speed.

Driver Swing Speed                Driver Loft

50 mph                                    15 – 17 degs

60mph                                     14-16 degs

70mph                                     13 – 15 degs

80mph                                     12 – 14 degs

90 mph                                    11-13 degs

100mph                                   9.5 – 11.5 degs

110 mph                                  8 – 10 degs

Ranges are offered because of differences in the angle of attack with the clubhead into the ball.  When the angle of attack is downward, more loft is required.  When the angle of attack is upward, less loft is needed.

5. Swingweight and Total Weight

If all golfers had the same physical strength and swung with the same tempo, rhythm and sense of swing timing, then all golfers could play with one standard swingweight and total weight.  No middle or high handicap golfer can hope to develop any level of consistency in their swing unless the total weight and the swingweight of their clubs are properly matched to their individual strength and swing tempo tendencies.

6. Shaft Flex andBendProfile

If any golfer uses a shaft that is too stiff for their swing speed and swing mechanics, they will suffer from a lower launch angle, loss of distance, and a poor feeling of impact.  Thus, it is very important for middle and high handicap golfers to be properly fit to the correct shaft weight and shaft bend profile (overall flex design).

7. Grip Size

No golfer can hope to achieve a level of swing repeatability unless their hands and forearms are secure to the grip but yet still relaxed when they begin the swing.  The grip size is a key element in allowing all golfers to be able to feel as comfortable as possible holding on to the club, and from that, to be able to keep the tension in the hands and the forearms at a bare minimum from the address position to the execution of the swing.

If you are a middle to high handicap golfer and want desperately to take your game to the next level, don’t hesitate one more year, go and FIND A CLUBFITTER and you will see dramatic improvements in your game!

Enter our book drawing held on on February 29th, 2012.  We will be giving away 25 of Tom Wishon’s best seller and highly acclaimed book, “The Search for the Perfect Driver.” 

-Tom

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Granted, it’s a fact – if the golfer isn’t confident with the look of the putter behind the ball, they won’t have the confidence or the ability to accurately line up the putt.  On the other hand, if the putter’s Length, Loft, Lie and overall weight balance are not matched to each golfer’s style of putting, there is little chance the putter will lower your score.

Putter Length

When you think that golfers are so different in their height, arm length and putting posture, it’s logical to think that the length of the putter must be custom fit to ensure a smooth putting stroke.  Arms scrunched up into the body or stretched out to the point of tension while stroking the putt are not conducive to putting consistency.

Putter Loft 

The loft of the putter must be matched to the golfer’s hand position at impact to ensure the ball rolls smoothly.  Does the golfer forward press to start their stroke or position the ball back of center in their stance?  If so, they need more loft.  Is the golfer a wristy putter or do they position the ball ahead of the center to front of their stance?  If so, they may need less loft.

Putter Lie Angle

Since putters do have loft, that means if the toe or the heel of the putter is off the ground at impact, the face is pointing somewhere other than the intended target line.  For consistent accuracy, the putter’s lie angle must be adjusted for each golfer so the putter sits perfectly in the center of the sole from heel to toe.

Putter Weight Balance

There is a weight balance for putters that will allow every golfer to be more consistent.  One of the most interesting developments in modern putter fitting is to add weight in the grip end of the putter.  Counterweighting, as it is called, with a 60 to 100 gram weight installed in the grip end of the shaft is proving to allow many golfers to develop a smoother stroke which results in more on center hits with the putter and more consistent distance control of the putt.

When you think about custom fit golf clubs or when you act to book a custom Clubfitting appointment, be sure you talk to your custom Clubmaker about fitting for the putter too.  If you do, your handicap index will be on its way to heading south on a permanent basis.  So don’t hesitate, go and FIND A CLUBFITTER and you will most definitely see dramatic improvements in your putting this year!

-Tom

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1. Is There Something to the Increase in Long Putter Use?
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