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The wind will naturally ventilate your home or business by entering or leaving windows, depending on their orientation to the wind. When wind blows against your home, air is forced into your windows. Heat accumulates in your building during the day, and the cool night air can flush it out. For drier climates, this will mean ventilating at night, closing doors and windows, and using window coverings during the day. You can use this strategy as long as indoor humidity is not uncomfortably high.

Depending on the building design and wind direction, a windbreak-like a fence, hedge, or row of trees that blocks the wind-can force air either into or away from nearby windows. Wind moving along a wall creates a low-pressure zone that pulls air out of the windows.

The chimney effect occurs when cool air enters a building on the first floor or basement, absorbs heat in the room, rises, and exits through upstairs windows. This creates lower air pressure, which pulls more air in through lower-level windows.

Natural ventilation works best in climates with cool summers or cool nights and regular breezes.

Using Windows and Doors for Cross-Ventilation
You can create natural cross-ventilation by opening your windows and doors, and adjusting the size and location of the openings to ventilate different parts of the building.

Inlets and outlets located directly opposite each other cool only those areas in between, in the direct path of the airflow. You’ll cool more of your home or business if you force the air to take a longer path between the inlet and outlet.

Experiment with different patterns of window venting to move fresh outside air through all of the rooms in your home or business. This may involve leaving some windows closed if they interfere with air moving along a longer path.

Attic Ventilation
Solar heat travels in through the roof and radiates into the attic. Attic ventilation reduces attic temperature 10° to 25°F (5° to 14°C) and slows the transfer of heat into the living space. However, the most effective way to reduce attic heat is to block the heat from entering in the first place with a reflective roof and at least a foot of attic insulation.

The best way to ventilate an attic is with natural ventilation. You need about one square foot of opening for every one hundred square feet of ceiling area. The vents should be split equally between the rooftop and the soffits. A fan is another alternative, but requires electricity to operate.

© 2004 U.S. Department of Energy

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Windows can make or break a building project. Choose wisely and your home will be comfortable, attractive, and easy to maintain. Buy the wrong ones and you can spend more than you need to up front or in higher utility bills for years to come.

Windows should let light in and keep weather out. That’s a tall order, because glass has almost no insulative value and is a poor barrier to radiant energy. So, if you can’t control the way energy passes in and out through your windows, you won’t be comfortable in your home. While some people augment compensate for inadequate windows by using their heating and cooling systems, this doesn’t produce true comfort, and means spending more on utilities.

Cold Climate Design
By design, cold climate windows should help keep heat in a building. U-value is the energy term used to describe a unit’s ability to prevent heat loss through the glazing or glass, sash, or frame. Choosing a unit with the wrong U-value is like wearing a swimsuit in a blizzard: There’s not much keeping the heat in. Heat can also escape through windows as radiant energy. Warm is attracted to cool, so radiant energy from people and objects is drawn out through the glass. You can actually feel this happen when the air temperature is warm, but you feel chilly whenever you approach a window.

Another way to increase efficiency is to use insulated glass units (IGUs), or windows with an air pocket sealed between two layers of glass. The trapped air insulates much like a layer of down in a coat. In gas-filled IGUs, manufacturers use exotic gases like argon or krypton to fill the pocket and achieve lower U-values.

Hot Climate Design
In a hot climate, the goal is to keep heat out. One way heat enters a building is by conduction, when cool inside air comes in contact with warm exterior glazing. Again, the cool air draws in the warmth, defeating the cooling effect indoors. A lower U-value makes this less likely to happen. Solar heat gain happens when radiant energy from direct or reflected sunlight enters through the window glass. High-tech prevention is available in low-e coatings which prevent the passage of radiant energy or solar heat into the home. An easy, low-tech solution is to minimize the amount of sun that hits your windows. Shading the windows with vegetation, awnings, or overhangs such as porches and eaves provides respite from the sun’s burning rays. Another option is to decrease the size and number of windows on the east and west sides of the building.

Ventilating Windows
Most windows open and close so bring air flow to your home. Operable units open many different ways. Double hung windows slide up and down, while sliding units move from side to side. Casement and European-style windows swing in or out like doors. Hopper and awning units are hinged to tilt in from the bottom or out from the top. Windows and doors are major architectural elements, so be sure to choose those that match the design of your home. For example, a 1920’s bungalow looks utterly ridiculous with modern sliders. Likewise, a 1960’s ranch may look silly with the multi-paned double-hung units commonly found on a colonial.

Material and Design
The material employed for sashes, frames, and doors affects energy efficiency, durability, aesthetics, and cost. Wood is often used for doors and windows. It’s paintable, stainable, and a good thermal insulator. Unfortunately, it rots if you don’t keep paint on it. Steel and aluminum are strong, durable materials for windows, but both have fallen out of favor because of the way they conduct heat and cold. Vinyl is cheap, durable, and relatively energy efficient. You can’t paint it, but it does come in a number of colors. Fiberglass windows, while expensive, are durable, paintable, and strong.Wood windows clad or faced in vinyl or aluminum is another option. The cladding enhances the durability of the window without compromising the thermal performance and design flexibility of wood.

It is critical to keep design and style in mind when selecting windows for your home. Windows are a huge investment and will significantly impact the look, feel, and operation of your home, so take the time before you buy to select a material, style, and model that is right for you.

© 2001 Renovate Your World

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With advances in paint and siding, how to color and protect your home is a many-sided equation. David Lucas, founder and president of Details of Sonoma, Inc., contractors in the northern Bay Area in California, strips it down. “The job of siding is to protect the structure,” Lucas says. “The job of paint and caulk is to protect the siding.”

Types of Siding

Although many homeowners consider paint and siding an either-or consideration, all houses have siding. Some types of siding need paint, others not much or not at all.

Installing wood siding.
Wood siding—planks, shakes, shingles or clapboard—is still the most common type and is generally thought of as the most sophisticated look for higher-end or historic homes. Depending on how it’s forested, wood can be a renewable resource, too, and therefore a good “green” option. But wood is also the most vulnerable to insects, moisture and the elements. Swings in temperature and humidity levels can warp wood, sunlight bakes it and depletes its resins, and water perhaps damages wood the most. Damaged wood leads to bubbling, crumbling and cracking paint, which is why many exterior paint jobs don’t last more than a few years.

Other types of siding include plastic (vinyl or weatherboard), metal (aluminum or steel), masonry (brick, stone, stone veneer and stucco) and fiber cement (a laminate made from a mixture of cement, fiberboard, sand and other materials). The least expensive options, vinyl and aluminum, aren’t as vulnerable to the elements as wood, but their color and condition will deteriorate over time, too, requiring paint or replacement. Vinyl, in particular, tends to bend, crack and fade. Aluminum fares better and has the added advantage of being recyclable.

Many people choose vinyl and aluminum siding to save on painting their homes, however, this siding still needs maintenance—it should be washed once a year with a simple, biodegrable detergent and a power washer or scrub brush, says Bob Manion of Manion Decorating in the Chicago area. And vinyl or aluminum can be painted if the color fades or if an owner wants a fresh look, painters say.

Like laminate flooring, laminate siding and trim provide the look of wood but with more hardiness and longevity. Fiber cement siding is strong as well as insect-, fire-, moisture- and impact-resistant, which allows paint jobs to last as long as 20 years, whether or not the boards are factory painted. Fiber cement siding is an expensive option, although, like other non-wood siding, it saves on maintenance. “It’s immutable; it’s concrete,” Lucas says. “Paint it, and you’re done.”

Fiber cement products are being allowed in historic districts and developments with aesthetic rules and regulations that previously allowed only wood siding.

Paint Options
“Forty years ago, lead-based paints were the ideal,” says James Bucci, of Bucci Painting in Greenville, N.Y. As far as longevity, there was nothing better.” With the discovery that lead is a toxin that damages major bodily systems, including brain and kidney functions, and of paint as the major source of lead poisoning, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) banned lead-based paint in 1978. The CPSC writes regulations to protect people from “unreasonable risk of injury or death” from 15,000 consumer products, including paint and coatings.

“Then came oil-based paint,” Bucci says. “It’s kind of like an Oldsmobile. It’s solid; it runs forever. But because it doesn’t flex and doesn’t breathe so well, it tends to alligator and crack.”

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Left untreated, they will weather to a natural gray, or they can be painted or stained. Cedar shakes and shingles are highly wind and hail resistant roofing choices, and when properly treated have excellent fire resistance. Shingles cut from the heartwood of trees that are naturally decay resistant to decay, such as western red cedar, will last longer and age better than many man-made materials.

Proper fasteners and installation are a must. Because shingles are wood, they will occasionally become wet. Consult a local professional for the appropriate backing materials in your area. Nails or staples must be rust resistant. Use stainless steel of hot-dipped galvanized nails of the appropriate length. Avoid using electroplated galvanized or unfinished nails. They will rust, and at least stain the siding. At worst, they can weaken and lead to expensive repairs. Always remove debris, such as branches, pine needles, and leaves. If they are left to accumulate, they will impede or trap run-off rainwater that then can result in leaks. Clean them by using a stiff broom or brush. Also, remove debris from the gaps between the individual shingles.

Mold and mildew can be removed with a solution of 3 ounces trisodium phosphate (TSP), 1 ounce of liquid laundry detergent, 1 quart of 5 percent sodium hychlorite (household bleach), and 3 quarts of warm water. Apply the solution undiluted and scrub the surface with a soft brush. When clean, rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Avoid getting the mix on surrounding plants; rinse the plants thoroughly with fresh water if you do. Use a 10 percent solution of zinc sulfate to control moss growth. The moss absorbs the zinc oxide and eventually can be swept away. Another remedy is to use a mixture of one part household bleach to four parts water to kill the moss.

© 2001 Renovate Your World

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Asphalt shingles are economical and versatile, which may be why they represent more than 80 percent of the roofing market. They’re relatively inexpensive to buy and install, are suited to roof pitches from 2-in-12 to vertical, and are available across a wide range of quality, cost, and style. Easy to cut, fit, and fasten, asphalt shingles are compatible with many different kinds of flashing and edging products, and don’t require specialized accessories for roof edges, wall terminations, chimney or vent flashings.


Choosing Shingles
There are two kinds of asphalt shingles on the market: Fiberglass shingles and organic-mat shingles. Both are made with asphalt, but fiberglass shingles use a fiberglass reinforcing mat, while the organic kind use a cellulose-fiber mat derived from wood. The organic mat of traditional shingles has to be saturated with soft asphalt, then coated with a harder asphalt for protection; the fiberglass shingles need only the hard asphalt coating. Fiberglass shingles are thinner, lighter, easier to lug around, and carry a better fire rating than organic shingles. Organic shingles used to have the edge over fiberglass on toughness and flexibility in cold weather, but that is no longer the case. “The technology in fiberglass has come very far,” says Paul Batt, Director of Product Marketing for CertainTeed. “It performs well in all climates and it is more dependable.” Where once fiberglass shingles predominated mainly the southern and central regions of the country, it is now widely used all over North America, including Canada, where organic mat used to be almost universal. “Fiberglass shingles make up about 95% of the asphalt shingle market,” adds Batt.


Buying Tips
When it comes to shingles, the drawbacks can often center on service life. While asphalt shingles come with warranties ranging from 20 to as long as limited lifetime, roofers and builders can be skeptical of those warranties. Some view warranties as more of a marketing device, and not a reliable predictor of lifespan. In the past decade, there have been many complaints of asphalt shingle failure long before warranties expired where homeowners have been dissatisfied with warranty payouts that didn’t cover all the costs of repair or replacement.

So rather than just compare warranties, it’s wise to demand shingles that meet industry manufacturing standards. Fiberglass asphalt shingles are covered by a standard called ASTM D-3462, which requires products to pass tear-strength and nail-withdrawal tests. Until recently, few shingles on the market actually passed the tests. But codes have been upgraded to permit only fiberglass shingles labeled as complying with this standard to be installed. Today some manufacturers even have the independent Underwriters Laboratory certify that they measure up. To check for compliance, look for the familiar UL logo on the label next to the ASTM D-3462 certification.
 Organic-mat shingles are covered by their own standard, ASTM D-225. In the past, organic shingles had much higher tear strength and nail-pull resistance than fiberglass shingles, but advances in the fiberglass technology have all but eliminated this distinction. Generally speaking, the heavier shingles that use more material will have the higher warranty. “A heavier weight shingle will have greater weather-ability and durability,” says Batt. “The better warranty is a reflection of that.”

Shingles that pass the standards cost more than low-grade shingles. However, installation is a big factor in total roof cost and, since it costs just as much to nail on poor shingles as first-rate ones, cheap shingles are rarely worth it.

The Importance of Installation
As with many products in the home, the effectiveness of the roof will depend largely on the quality of the installation. With over 20,000 roofing contractors in the US alone, homeowners will do well to remember that not all contractors are created equal. Everything from failure to match the correct fastener with the roofing product to installing in too-low temperatures can reduce the lifespan of a roof. Homeowners should be engaged in the process of selecting a contractor and determining that a selected contractor is taking all the appropriate steps to ensure proper installation of the roof. Some steps to take include:

• Find out if the contractor is a part of a Manufacturer’s Program. Are they qualified to install the product that you have selected?

• Find out how long the contractor has been in business in your area. Make sure the contractor is licensed and insured.

• Ask how the contractor will deal with ventilation and flashing areas.

• Learn about your roof and its particular needs and unique qualities.


Shingle Appearance
Asphalt shingles now come in all kinds of colors and profiles. The old 3-tab shingles are still around, but a wide range of “architectural” shingles, whose profiles suggest the random shadows and patterns of slate, wood shingles, or ceramic tile, are readily available. These specialty shingles often carry a longer warranty but, once again, beware: Check to see that the shingle actually has two full layers, not a half-width of lower lamination. Also, make sure the package is labeled as complying with ASTM D-3462 or ASTM D-225. Some architectural shingles—like CertainTeed’s “Presidential” line—are actually triple laminate, comprised of three layers. Made to imitate the look of cedar shake, the triple laminate shingle gives the roof an even greater three dimensional look, not to mention durability.


Architectural shingles have a random pattern and, as a result, can be easier to lay out than the standard 3-tab kind. With a traditional shingle, you have to line up the tabs properly, or the roof will have a haphazard, wavy appearance. The surface pattern of the architectural shingles, on the other hand, obscures the shape of the shingles themselves, and provides the desired appearance while saving effort on the layout. This savings in installation time may actually help offset the sticker price associated with specialty shingles

Reflecting Rays
Signaling an effort to keep up with the green movement, a few of the major manufacturers of asphalt shingles have introduced some form of reflective shingle onto the market. Designed to reduce cooling costs, these shingles contain granules that reflect infrared light. This reduces solar heat gain, which keeps both the roof—and the home’s interior—cooler on those bright, hot sunny days. Homeowners living in hot and sunny climates should consider a reflective asphalt shingle roofing solution to help curb cooling costs.

© 2009 Renovate Your World

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Roofing underlayment was originally used for temporary protection against the elements but is now an integral part of a home’s overall roof system. Underlayment provides a vital second layer of protection on top of the sheathing to help keep moisture out. It is necessary for roofing manufacturers’ warranties and is now considered a necessary piece of the roofing puzzle. State and municipal codes require roofing underlayment for the system to meet standards like fire resistance, wind uplift resistance, puncture resistance, and resistance to wind-driven rain.

The choice of one underlayment over another depends on a number of conditions, including its application, whether it will be used on a steep or low-slope roof, the fire code requirements in place, and in what region the structure is located. Fortunately for consumers and roofing contractors, there are many underlayment manufacturers on the market. Underlayments fall under three basic categories: felts, synthetics, and self-adhering ice-and-water barriers.

Asphalt-Saturated Felt—The Grandaddy of Underlayments
Also called builder’s felt or felt paper, asphalt-saturated felt has been covering roofs for more than 50 years. The felt is made of a paper base that is impregnated or saturated with asphalt to make it more resistant to the elements. Some papers are actually coated in asphalt, while others are truly saturated. Roofing paper or felt is rolled across a roof deck and stapled or nailed in place. Builder’s felt differs by weight and may be No. 30 or No. 15 felt, a reference to the original weights of each underlayment. “The name changed because today’s 15 lb. felt is actually lighter than it used to be, because of modern technology and production,” says Joan Crowe, technical manager of the National Roofing Contractors Association in Illinois. Although inexpensive and fairly easy to install, felt paper can be susceptible to tearing, especially in hot temperatures, and makes for a slippery surface to walk on while installing the roof covering. Asphalt felt also tends to trap moisture within the roofing system since it does not breathe.

Synthetic Underlayment—A Growing Trend
Much newer to the market are the polypropylene underlayments that are making waves in the roofing world. Made of synthetic polymers, the exact composition of these underlayments varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and remains strictly proprietary. These synthetic underlayments are marketed as wrinkle-free, tear resistant, and safer for workers to walk on during installation. “Synthetic underlayments are generally more durable than asphalt-saturated felt,” explains Crowe. They are more expensive than felt, but it may be that you get what you pay for.

“Synthetic underlayments are more breathable,” says Tom Jones of Stevens Roofing Corp. in Norfolk, Virginia. “They are waterproof, but they also allow moisture to pass out of the system.” As a result, synthetic underlayments are mold resistant. They are lighter weight than felt papers, are lighter in color for a cooler roof, and are typically sold in greater widths and lengths. This translates into labor and time savings for roofing contractors.

Self-Adhering Underlayment
Self-adhering underlayments were initially used primarily in New England, where ice damming threatens roof integrity. These self-adhering ice-and-water barriers were installed mainly in the valleys and eaves of the roof, where ice damming tends to occur. An ice-and-water barrier is significantly thicker than felt or synthetic underlayments, is seamless, provides top-rate water protection, and requires no fasteners for installation. When an ice-and-water barrier is used in a roofing system, it is applied as a first layer, with the felt paper or synthetic underlayment applied on top, across the entire roof deck. These self-adhering underlayments are designed to seal up around any nails or staples used to install the felt paper, synthetic underlayment, or roof shingles. “Self-adhering underlayment works great on low-slope applications where water tends to pool up, says Jones.” The underlayment does not allow the water to seep through.”

Complete Systems—A Growing Trend
Warranty is a key word when it comes to roofs. Depending on location, a high-end slate or metal roof might cost as much as $400 per square (10 feet by 10 feet) to install. This is a hefty chunk of change to dish out at one time. Homeowners want to know that a manufacturer will back up the product with a warranty and that a roof said to last for 30 years will actually do so or be replaced. Manufacturers are now marketing complete roofing systems, which allows them to offer longer and more-comprehensive warranties. “Manufacturers want you to buy their whole package, including weather barrier, underlayment, and shingles,” Crowe says. “If you use the whole package, you’ll get the total warranty.”

While the definition of total warranty will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, the phrase is enough to convince most roofing contractors to buy into it. “When we do a roof, we tend to go by the manufacturer’s recommendations and use their complete system,” Jones says. “That way we know we can go back to the manufacturer if there is a problem with the roof later on, because they’ve provided a bit more extended warranty.”

Marketing trends aside, the advancements being made in roofing systems and roofing underlayments are leading to stronger, longer-lasting roofs that hold up better against the worst that nature has to offer. “The new technologies have solved a lot of problems,” Jones says. “These advancements are good for the industry.”

Text by Benjamin Hardy
© 2004 Renovate Your World

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The weak link in most existing houses is in the connection of the roof sheathing to the rafters or roof trusses. There are several ways to strengthen this attachment. The cheapest and easiest is to renail or, better yet, screw down the sheathing when you replace your roof covering. This should only cost you an extra $200 to $300 for a typical house. Refastening your sheathing and undertaking the following extra measures willl provide you with significant reduction in the vulnerability of your roof to wind damage.

• When you undertake a re-roofing project, have your roofing contractor remove all of the roof covering materials, down to the sheathing. In strong wind areas, you should never add a second layer of shingles over an existing layer.

• Have the sheathing inspected for damage or decay. Replace any weak material with sheathing rated for your truss or rafter spacing (16 or 24 inch).

• Have the sheathing refastened using either 8d ring-shank nails or #8 screws 2 inches long. The nails or screws should be installed between the existing fasteners and at a spacing of not more than 6 inches between the old and new fasteners. A smaller spacing (4 to 5 inches) is recommended if the ring shank nails are used. Also, if your roof has gable end overhangs, you should have nails or screws installed at 4 inches on center on the last truss or rafter.

• Provide a backup level of water protection by installing self-adhesive roof or window flashing tape over the joints between the sheathing. Four or six-inch wide strips are readily available in 100-foot rolls for about $20 per roll. Have your roofer seal around roof deck penetrations with roof tape, sealant or asphalt roof cement. Replace boots around pipes and flashing at wall or chimney intersections as needed.

• Specify as a minimum, ASTM D 226 Type 1 (#15) asphalt impregnated felt paper underlayment with a 19 inch overlap. The felt paper should be attached using low profile capped head nails or thin metal tins and roofing nails. The tins or caps should have a minimum diameter of 1 inch. Fasteners should be installed at no more than 6 inch intervals along all seams or laps and at 12 inch spacing in the field. Off set any vertical laps 12 inches. Have metal drip flashing installed along roof edges, nailed at a minimum spacing of 10 inches on center. If your house is within 3,000 feet of salt-water, use hot-dipped galvanized fasteners for the underlayment attachment.

• Install shingles with 6 nails per shingle or as recommended by the manufacturer. Consider specifying a Dade County, Florida approved shingle. Check out BuildingCodeOnline.com for a comprehensive listing of Dade County approved building products. Use a starter course at the bottom of each slope and consider specifying hand tabbing shingles within 3 feet of roof edges. Shingles should not extend more than 1/4 to 1/2 inch beyond the edge of the roof deck.

© 2001 Renovate Your World

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Your roof is critical to basic house performance. It gives your house identity, shelters you from the weather, withstands sun, wind, rain, sleet, hail, and snow, and works 24 hours a day to protect the rest of your home from the relentless forces of nature.

A Look at Roof Design
Good roof design is as much art as science. A roof has to seem a natural part of the building, one that helps the building relate visually to its environment. Consequently, the best roof designs spring from the shape of the house and mesh with the overall style of the building. That is why certain roof shapes and roof coverings are associated with particular historical periods and designs, and even the most creative modern architecture selects a roof to harmonize with the overall structure. When modifying a house or adding on, it’s important to be sensitive to the way the new roof fits into the existing design.

Function
Roof design must also work on a practical level: The structure needs to anticipate and support expected loads, the water-shedding details have to work, and the covering must suit the slope and climate. Roof coverings, like roof shapes, serve double duty because their appearance and their function are intertwined. Slate, tile, metal roofing, wood shakes, and asphalt shingles are all associated with certain periods and styles of home. The color and texture of the roof, its patterns of tone and shadow, lend character and personality to the home. On a practical level, some roof coverings are better suited to various slopes and weather conditions than others, and some may be more cost effective in terms of installation and service life.

Maintenance
Even with a perfect installation, no roof lasts forever. Wind, sun, rain, and hail will take their toll, and sooner or later your roof will have to be replaced. You can postpone that day of reckoning for many years by taking good care of your roof. Pay attention to roof modifications: Any change, patch, or alteration, be it for vent pipe, skylights, satellite dishes, or repair, requires attention to detail. Waterproofing new joints, matching the look of the existing roof, and using proper detailing are all critical to the success and life expectancy of your roof. Inspect the roof routinely, clean it periodically as needed, and make minor repairs in a timely way, and you can greatly extend the roof’s lifespan. Most roof coverings allow you to replace single tiles or pieces of flashing. In the long run, doing these occasional small repairs will cost less than waiting for extensive failure and subsequent roof replacement.

© 2001 Renovate Your World

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