Tori MacLennan

Enjoy The Ride

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:59:00 +0000

Stand-up paddleboarding is making a comeback in a big way. Although not a new sport, it certainly feels like one with a growing number of followers. Some surfers are completely against it, but some love having the option and enjoy both sports equally. Truth be told, it is the opinion of some surfers that there is no place for stand-up paddleboards in the line-up, and that they are just out there taking waves.

The evidence of the increase in popularity of stand-up paddleboarding can be seen on the water, in the stores and in magazine spreads. Surf shops are noticing a decline in surfware sales and a sharp increase in sales of stand-up paddleboards. As one person asked, "Is this what Jennifer Aniston was doing in that magazine photo?" Yeah, something like that.

There is a difference between paddleboarding and stand-up paddleboarding. Stand-up paddleboarding is like combining two water sports: outrigger canoeing and surfing. A Stand-up paddleboard is thicker and wider than a traditional surfboard making it more buoyant and therefore easier to balance on. With your paddle in hand, you can easily take a scenic paddle or use the paddle to propel yourself into the perfect wave. This makes it a versatile sport since you can take it into lakes and rivers.

Laird Hamilton, a pro surfer, big wave rider and a Stand-up paddleboarding pioneer, is being partially blamed for this skyrocketing sport. Laird Hamilton reintroduced and arguably reinvented the sport. Although Laird is an extremely proficient professional surfer, some surfers blamed him for reintroducing the sport and going as far as to print "Blame Laird" bumper stickers. According to his blog, which his wife, professional beach volleyball player Gabby Reece posts on, at first he was offended, but then he embraced it, taking it as a compliment. Laird Hamilton and Gabby Reese have taken it so well, they have started their own "Blame Laird" line of apparel.

Stand-up paddleboarding has become so popular you can now purchase a board and paddle for around $450.00 at Costco. For the more serious athlete, it would be easy to spend about $2000.00 on the board and another $400.00 on the paddle. Of course you will still need a deck pad and a leash, and unless you can carry an awkward 24 pounds for a distance, you may want to invest in a sling board carrier.

Here in the beach cities, stand-up paddleboarding has become the "in" thing to do. It's not unusual to see stand-up paddleboarders in the water off Hermosa, Manhattan and Redondo beaches. That leads me to the question, will this strike up a new "locals only/surfing only" war? I ask this because there is a certain history in the South Bay, with local surfers having the claim on specific locations. In fairness, the dispute between stand-up paddleboarders and surfers has already begun in other locations with surfers calling stand-up paddleboarders "sweepers." Because the stand-up paddleboard is bigger and you are armed with a paddle, it is easy to steal waves from surfers. If you do not follow the rules of the line-up, you could be referred to as a "kook." Of course if you both surf and stand-up paddleboard, you are well aware of the surfing etiquette.

There are always going to be traditional surfers who hate the idea of stand-up paddleboarding. I'm sure both sides can argue their cases. The dangers of an inexperienced Stand-up paddleboarder dropping into a wave at the same time as a surfer is always going to be an issue, as it would be if it were two surfers.

The combination of the stand-up paddleboards buoyancy and the paddle make it easier to balance on and easier to catch waves. Yes, stand-up paddleboards are surf-worthy as well as seaworthy. Which is why as of October, 2008 the United States Coast Guard classified the stand-up paddleboard as a vessel and you will need to have a United States Coast Guard approved Personal Flotation Device, aka PFD and a whistle if you take it out further than the surf break.

Earlier this year a petition went to the United States Coast Guard to request reclassification of stand-up paddleboards. To date, the United States Coast Guard still considers the Stand-up paddleboard a vessel.

Although some may find the thought of wearing a Personal Floatation Device cumbersome, they will be pleased to know that some manufactures make them the size of a fanny pack.

It seems to me that there is a place for both stand-up paddleboarding and surfing. I look at it like this: If there are waves, go surfing, and if not, go stand-up paddleboarding. If you are out on your stand-up paddleboard and an unexpected set comes in, enjoy the ride.

Waiting Room

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:55:00 +0000

I didn't sleep much the night before. I was too anxious.
I walked into a full waiting room and looked around, stunned at what a large waiting room it was. As soon as I walked in, a receptionist caught my attention and had me sign in. She then handed me a clipboard and a stack of papers to fill out. I found an open seat and got started.
For the number of women waiting to be called, the room was awfully silent. Not that I was feeling particularly chatty.
As soon as I finished with my forms, I promptly turned them in and went back to my seat. I took out my book and started to read. Only I wasn't reading at all. I tried to read the same sentence three times and had no idea what I had just read. I tapped, tapped, tapped my fingers on my thigh. Nervous. Yes, that's what it was, I was nervous.
Less than a week before I had been sitting in my primary care doctor's office feeling a similar way. Three weeks earlier, I had discovered a lump in my left breast. It was a painful lump on the side and wasn't showing any signs of going down.
Now I was in the waiting room at the Vasek and Anna Maria Polak Breast Diagnostic Center at Torrance Memorial.
According to center director Mari David, 1 in 10 women nationwide will be called back for more pictures. Three to five women per 1,000 who receive first screening mammograms will be found to have cancer.
For six to 10 women per 1,000, cancer will be found on subsequent screenings. (The American College of Radiology provided the stats, which are from 2003, but per David, hospital radiologists say the stats are still accurate.)
I continued to hold my book open as if I had intentions on reading. Instead I scanned the room. I looked around and saw a variety of women of varying ages. There were a couple of men there too, but I soon figured out that they were there to support the woman in their life.
As I looked at each of the faces, I imagined them in their "real" lives. Mothers, daughters, wives, sisters, grandmas…loved ones. I knew all of these women, myself included, would be getting mammograms today. I also knew that statistically speaking we wouldn't all hear the coveted all-clear, "See ya next year."
Every time the door opened to call in another patient, I watched each woman walk through the door with a similar look on her face.
The Vasek and Anna Maria Polak Breast Diagnostic Center at Torrance Memorial did almost 32,000 screening mammograms within the past year. It sees about 60,000 patients a year. The American Cancer Society encourages women to have a baseline mammogram at age 40, and sooner if they have a family history.
When my name was called, I headed through the doorway. No cancer was found. I was relieved, to say the least. I will go back for my follow-up mammogram next month.
Ed Pilolla contributed to this report.

The Best Gift Ever

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:51:00 +0000

While writing about the perfect gift for the favorite surfer on your holiday list, I began to reminisce about Christmas gifts past. Quickly I came to one of my favorite memories.

I won't ever forget it: My husband and I were dating at the time and this was to be our very first Christmas together. Although we had known each other fairly well, I struggled trying to find the perfect gift. And to be honest, I don't even remember what I bought him, but I remember very well what he bought me.

I drove to his apartment in Hermosa Beach nervously wondering if he would like the gift I bought for him. And I was very curious about what he bought for me. We weren't far enough in the relationship for jewelry, so no pressure there, but I wondered how well he knew me.

Did he know I hate glitter? Even cards sprinkled with the stuff, making a mess and somehow ending up on my face. Did he know about my love of books? And how instead of going out to a movie I preferred spending the time in a bookstore?

When I walked in the door there was a large wrapped gift leaning against the wall. I had no idea what he could have bought me that was about 4 feet long, but I couldn't wait to open it. I knew for certain it wasn't a book and I seriously doubted it was covered in glitter.

The package was fairly soft and as I began to slowly tear the wrapping paper, I saw silver. Soon I had the paper off completely, revealing a padded silver Pro-Lite surfboard bag folded in half.

I have an 8'0" longboard and he purchased just the right size to fit my surfboard without having to remove the fins. I didn't know I even needed one, let alone want one, but suddenly I did.

I was so touched by this gift. Not because he purchased such a nice bag, but because he really thought about the perfect gift to get the surfer girl who has all she needs to go surfing…except a board bag.

Years have passed since that wonderful Christmas and I am happy to say my board bag is still in great shape. It has come in handy on numerous occasions and has kept the wax from melting off my board in the summer more that once.

So many people say, "It's not the gift, but the thought that counts." For me, the thought really was the gift.

Dear Santa: Surf WIth Style

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:49:00 +0000

The challenge to find the perfect gift for each and every person on your list may have you in a panic, but I have some ideas to help you find something for the surfer in your life.

Most surfers already have the basics, or the essentials, such as a leash and wax. And surfboards come in such a large variety of shapes, sizes and styles that it may be best left to the rider to decide on the perfect board.

For me, the perfect gift to give is not the typical, but the luxurious, being items most people wouldn't purchase for themselves.

Although there are many surf shops to choose from in the Beach Cities, I went to visit my friend, surfer and stand-up paddleboarder Tamara Lentz, at Spyder Surf on PCH. While I was there, I became the proverbial kid in a candy store.

I walked in with a few ideas of what would make the perfect gift, but it didn't take long to find more than I could have imagined.

Rip Curl E-Bomb Men's Wetsuit ($299.95): This is a performance driven full wetsuit. It also comes in a version for women called the Rip Curl Girls G-Bomb. This may be the nicest way to make the frigid water of winter a little more bearable.
GoPro Hero HD Camera ($269.99): The GoPro Hero HD Camera can be mounted to your surfboard so you can record yourself riding that epic wave. You may recall Chuck Patterson using the GoPro Hero HD Camera mounted on a pole to film his encounter with two great white sharks.
Short Ugg Boots ($140): A classic. You can find these just about everywhere, and for me they are a must-have item to slip on after getting out of the water. Ugg makes these in several colors, but I like them in sand because they remind me of a pair I had in high school.
Future Fins Clay Marzo RTM Fin Set ($69.99): One of the things I like best about my surfboard is my center fin's floral inlay, that is, until I saw this fin set. This set of three fins is so cool. It was hard not to buy this on the spot.
Hooded Changing Towel ($50): When changing your clothes at the beach, there is always the chance that your towel may slip off while you shimmy in or out of your wetsuit. This towel is perfect to use for changing since you slip it over your head, covering you front to back.
Power Balance Band ($29.99): Made of surgical grade silicone, this wristband comes in five different sizes and an array of colors. The hologram on the bracelet is designed to work with your body's natural energy flow and intended to optimize balance.
Innersection DVD ($24.99): Released on Nov. 23 this year, Innersection is a Taylor Steele surf film with 25 directors and 25 surfers including Clay Marzo and Kelly Slater. I have not yet seen the film, but I have seen some of the footage. I hope this one makes it in my stocking. It looks amazing.
Summer of Color 13-Month Calendar ($11.99): This calendar features color photos of the Summer of Color lifeguard towers. (Warning: Supplies may be limited.)

Happy holidays!

Teen Drama Downright Comical About Surfing

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:48:00 +0000

Today I'm going to admit to something publicly that only two people know about me. I am going to admit to a guilty pleasure that I would have preferred to keep secret, but I can no longer hold back.

So, here it goes: I watch 90210! OK, there, I admitted it. I watch a teen show about not-so-teen drama.

I have been watching since it premiered last season and until now, I was able to ignore the absurdity of the show and just watch without opinion. But last week all of that changed.

You may recall reading about 90210 filming at both Torrance and Redondo Beach awhile back. Well, the episode finally aired last week. The location couldn't have been more obvious since you can clearly see Palos Verdes in the background, not to mention the "Color of Summer" lifeguard towers art project.

The filming took place on one of our many gloomy days that we had this year and that, too, is obvious.

In this episode, riddled with surf clichés, Ivy the resident "surfer chick" is entering a surf completion, which (no spoilers here?) she wins. Ivy's friend Naomi, an obnoxious rich girl, eyes a surfer friend of Ivy's named Zach and leads him to believe she is a proficient surfer in order to obtain a surf date.

When Ivy offers to help her prepare for her surf date by giving her some surfing pointers, Naomi declines saying she is just going to paddle out, but has no intention on trying to catch a wave; besides she watched half of Blue Crush.

Naomi thinks all she needs to do to impress Zach is use surf slang and paddle out on a board. Her plan is to avoid the waves so he won't know she doesn't know how to surf.

Although this will be Naomi's first time in the water, she is arrogantly confident she can pull it off looking like a pro.

After breathlessly paddling out, Naomi, who is paying more attention to Zach than the wave headed her way, gets pummeled. Zach saves her after she gets hit in the nose with her board.

With Naomi's secret revealed, she doesn't get a follow-up date with Zach, who is angry that she lied about her experience level. Naomi tries to smooth things out with Zach, explaining that her nose isn't even bad enough to see a plastic surgeon (like, totally).

As if last week's episode wasn't funny enough (was it meant to be funny?), this week's episode picked up where the last one left off. Naomi no longer has a bandage across her nose, and when she is complemented on her "healed" nose, she credits "a boatload of Crème de la Mer" (at $130 for 1 ounce, she may have needed a couple of ounces) for her recovery.

Call me crazy, but as many times as I have gotten bumped and bruised, I have never heard of using $130 face cream to speed up the healing process.

Once I was past all of the obvious contradictions and absurdities, I watched the rest of the comedy, ahem, I mean drama.

And although I find some of the acting a bit (just a bit) over the top and annoying (but just a bit), still I watch.

Now that I have freed myself of this secret and gotten some things off my chest at the same time, I can sit back, relax and enjoy seeing my hometown on TV, knowing that I really have surfed there.

15 Again

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:45:00 +0000

Today I did something I hadn't done in years: I went to the beach to watch surfers surf.

It was different than the days I take my kids to the beach to play in the sand or the days I cram my surfboard into my car to go surfing.

I parked my car, paid the meter and walked down to the sand, tossing off my flip-flops before I headed for the water. The surface of the sand was warm, but as my foot sank in, the cool layers reminded me that summer is behind us.

The waves rolled in and out in a hypnotic rhythm, beckoning me to get closer to the waters edge.

I watched each surfer with his or her unique style of surfing. Although like most, I am "regular footed" (left foot forward), I look for someone with a "goofy foot" stance (right foot forward). The water temperature was a cool 51 degrees and everyone in the water was wearing a full wetsuit.

As I watched, I vividly remembered being 15 and going to the beach with my friends. We would do our hair as if we were going to a party, not the beach.

My friends would never go in the ocean, and I had a hard time keeping my feet on dry sand. I didn't want to be the oddball, so I secretly vowed not to go in the water…this time.

We would lie on our towels talking about our secret crushes at school and who we would "like totally" marry. While they went on and on about our high school quarterback, I thought about my secret crush.

I didn't have a crush on just any boy; I had a crush on a surfer. In fact, he was on the surf team. He was 17 and he was very handsome.

I can still see him, with his bleach blond locks dangling in front of his eyes. A flip of his head and his hair would swoosh to the side revealing his golden brown face.

He was just cool.

I could abstain from the water for only so long, hairspray be dammed. I jumped in, swam and dove underwater as if I was in an enormous swimming pool. I frolicked in the ocean without a care in the world.

When I got out of the water and headed toward my towel, I was greeted with stares of shock and disapproval from my friends. I could almost hear their internal thoughts about how my hair was now dripping wet and no longer perfectly coiffed.

I decided I didn't care; the swim in the ocean was worth the stares and the messy hair.

At 15 I was inching my way to adulthood, craving the freedom that in reality was much more than I could handle.

As I headed back to my car before the meter runs out, I thought about how my life turned out, and I was happy.

I headed home with my memories and I wondered, whatever happened to that handsome boy with the perfect hair.

I really don't know for sure, but I bet he still surfs.

Surf Before You Eat

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:44:00 +0000

I love Thanksgiving, I really do. Some of my fondest memories are of spending the day with my family. We would hang out, watch football and relax...all day long. And I always looked forward to the feast for dinner.

I knew with certainty that I would vow to save room for dessert but would over indulge in turkey and about 10 side dishes that looked way too good to pass up. I simply couldn't resist homemade rolls.

By the time the announcement was made that dessert was to be served, I couldn't eat a single bite. Instead, I would save mine to savor later.

I had a dear friend who spent Thanksgiving in a very similar way, with one exception; he went surfing first.

I loved the idea of getting in the water on Thanksgiving, but as great as I thought that would be, the water had dropped in temperature and was much colder than I could handle. I knew if I attempted to surf, I would cramp up in the cold water. But I didn't mind tagging along to watch.

I bundled up in a warm hoodie and Ugg boots and headed out. When we arrived at the beach I was really surprised at how crowded the water was. I guess it stands to reason that if you are not a fair weather surfer (like me), and the surf is breaking, and you have the day off, well then why not surf?

I watched my friend prepare to go out with a pang of jealousy. I wanted to get in the water, I really did, but I was already freezing and I couldn't imagine being wet on top of it. So I stayed on dry land.

I watched as he paddled out.

Soon after he got to the line-up, he skillfully caught his first wave of the day. He maneuvered himself on the wave like a pro. At the end of his ride he literally dove off his board in style. He popped out of the water and used his hand to brush back his wet hair before paddling back out.

If I was feeling the pangs of jealously before, I now felt stabs of jealousy. I am the first to admit that I have a hard time staying dry when the ocean is concerned.

My friend had learned to surf when he was a kid and he never stopped. He was skilled and a blast to watch.

He was not the first person to take me out surfing (that was a disaster), but he taught me how to surf and I will forever be grateful for his patience and watchful eye keeping me safe in the water.

Unfortunately, he died a few years ago. I still miss him.

Although his loss was sudden, I know he lived a great life and incorporated surfing into his life regularly, including Thanksgiving day.

So every Thanksgiving I say a little prayer for him, and I am reminded of how fragile life is.

Today I will toast my family, my friends and give thanks to the many blessings in my life.

And I will always remember watching him surf on Thanksgiving day.

Surfing Looked Easy Enough. It Wasn't.

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:41:00 +0000

For as long as I can remember I wanted to learn how to surf. When I was a small child, I would go to the beach and watch surfers paddle into waves, pop up on their board and ride all the way to shore.

Into my teens, I would go to the beach with friends, and while they worked on their tans or played volleyball, I watched surfers.

I was completely fascinated by how incredibly easy they made surfing look. I mean, how hard can it be? I broke it down in steps.

Step 1. Paddle out.

Step 2. Sit on your board in the ocean and wait for a wave.

Step 3. Turn around when you see a wave and paddle.

Step 4. Stand up.

Easy.

When I finally got someone to take me surfing, I was in for a very rude awakening.

Step 1 seemed like the easiest of all, paddle out. I quickly learned that timing is everything. And I mean everything. So is the art of duck diving, which is when you go under the wave with your board. I had yet to learn how.

I paddled as hard as I could, only to get pummeled by a wave. By the time I recovered and got back on my board, I was worked by another wave. By the time I actually made it out to the line-up, I was exhausted, and if I'm being honest, a little frightened.

Step 2 took a while, which was a good thing since I need to recover from my what I call my tumble in the washing machine. As I sat on my board, I watched wave after wave peak and other surfers ride them to shore. I wasn't ready to try yet; I needed time to rebuild my courage.

Step 3 was soon upon me, and I couldn't put it off any longer. I saw a wave coming, and I had some of my confidence back, so I readied myself. I turned my board around and paddled hard. I felt the wave pick up my board. When I thought that I had the wave, I moved on to the next step.

Step 4 is the best step and I was convinced that I could master this step. As I began to stand up, I saw the nose of my board dip into the water and I unceremoniously tumbled forward. I wiped out, hard. The technical term for what happened to me is called pearling and it can be quite frightening.

Not only did I get worked in the wave, but I was really disoriented underwater. For a second, I had no idea which way was up. When I finally righted myself, I popped up to the surface of the water and took a huge breath of air.

Unfortunately for me there was a wave that was right behind the one I had wiped out on and that wave had my pilotless board heading straight for me. My instincts told me to dive back under the water and shield my head with my arms. I did and narrowly missed getting hit in the head by my wayward board.

When I came back to the surface, I swam to my board and paddled to shore.

I was beaten.

So many times people have told me they tried surfing with almost the exact same results on their first try. They too were frightened and exhausted.

As scary as my first experience was, I vowed not to give up. I knew that I would try again. I knew that I would find someone who could teach me, someone who knew how to teach me.

Eventually, I did. But as for this day, I was done.

Surfing Lost One Of The Best

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:39:00 +0000

Last week, the surfing community around the world was stunned when Andy Irons died suddenly. He was 32.

Irons was in Puerto Rico for the Rip Curl Pro Search when he dropped out and decided to fly home to Kauai, Hawaii. There are several versions of what happened next; one thing that seems to be consistent is that Andy had a layover in Dallas and checked into a hotel.

The next morning, Andy did not respond to his wake up call and was found at 10 a.m. Andy Irons was dead.

Although there are countless reports that Andy was fighting dengue fever, a virus contracted from an infected mosquito, reports have also surfaced that prescription drugs found in his hotel room may have contributed to his death. An autopsy will provide the official cause of death.

As these reports continue to circulate, I can't help but think about Lyndie, Andy's wife, who is pregnant with their unborn son.

As a wife and a mother of two, I can only imagine how devastated Lyndie must have been when she got the fateful news. I can't imagine how she must be feeling at this moment knowing that Andy will not be there for the birth of their son in December.

I think about my husband going on a business trip and not coming home. I think about my kids and how different their lives would be if they never knew their father. And I hope this baby boy grows up finding some peace in the stories and photos of his.

In a Billabong video short film series called I Surf Because, Andy described the first wave he ever caught and how his love for surfing began at that moment. He truly had a natural talent and the gift was that he loved it.

For all of the questions swirling around about Andy, one thing is certain; he was admired by many and was well respected by fellow surfers whether they knew him personally or not. There have beenseveral paddle-outs to honor Andy, including one that took place in Manhattan Beach.

Before Andy died, I watched in awe of his talent, amazed at how effortless he made surfing look. Now I watch and mourn one of the best there ever was.

On Nov. 6, Kelly Slater clinched his 10^th World Surfing Championship, which he dedicated to Andy. They were once bitter rivals, but worked out their differences, and had a mutual respect and admiration for each other.

Andy had an incredible career; he was an incredible surfer and a charismatic soul. Surfing is a better sport because he was in it.

At the end of the Billabong video short, Andy said, "I surf because, I'm always a better person when I come in."

I couldn't agree more.

Glass Off

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:37:00 +0000

The wind dies down, leaving the ocean and waves looking like glass. I wax my board.

We stand at the top of the cliff. I see the signs of what will be a powerful sunset.

I begin walking down the wooden stairs with my board safely tucked under my arm. The handrail is worn from salt and wind. The wood grain is split, revealing the aging lines of what was once a tree.

We love a good reef break. Instead of sand, there are pebbles of all shapes and sizes, in shades of grey, green and brown.

Waves roll in at a mellow pace and there is a small break between sets. Nice.

We are alone. People are gone for the day. Parents and children are home preparing for dinner. This is primetime.

We wait for the break in sets and paddle out. I push the water behind me, propelling myself forward. The paddle out is longer than most beach breaks, and I welcome it, knowing the ride will be longer too. We find the perfect spot and sit up on our boards.

The water sparkles as though someone has showered the surface with glitter. Even the best artist in the world couldn't recreate this scene, and I take a moment to admire the beauty.

We see the water beginning to peak. I spin myself around to take the first wave. I paddle as hard as I can, keeping up in hopes of catching the wave and riding it to shore. My board rises, and I begin to accelerate. I have it. All I need to do is stand up.

I pop up, and smile.

The sun has begun its slow descend, but still warms my face. The bellies of the clouds are pink now.

This is the first of many waves that I catch, and there is no shortage today. We take turns catching waves, watching the other ride off in the distance. Between sets, we sit side-by-side, telling each other what the last ride was like.

As sun moves and the air cools, I know its time to go, but not quite yet. There is still time for one more. As I see a wave beginning to form, we spin ourselves around under the blushing red sky and catch a wave home.

He Didn't Even See It Coming

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:35:00 +0000

A few weeks ago I wrote about recent shark sightings along the coast of Southern California. I pointed out that shark attacks are rare and shark attack fatalities rarer. But no matter how rare they are, when an attack happens, I can't help but take pause.

Last week 19-year-old Lucas Ransom lost his life in a fatal shark attack.

Ransom, a UC Santa Barbara student and his roommate, 20-year-old Matt Garcia, went body boarding and surfing at Surf Beach, about 130 miles north of Los Angeles at Vandenberg AFB.

Lucas and Matt got in the water hoping to catch some of the rumored "big surf." At 8:50 a.m. Lucas was on his body board when he was suddenly attacked. Although Matt tried to help him, Lucas lost his left leg. His femoral artery was severed and he could not be saved.

Experts believe that an 18-20 foot adult great white shark is responsible for the attack. The severe damage done to Lucas's leg and the 13 inch bite taken out of his body board could only have been done by a large shark. Experts are also quick to point out that this was likely a case of mistaken identity and the shark was looking for a seal.

Lucas was a trained lifeguard and an experienced swimmer and surfer. This shark attack was in no way provoked, and in fact, Lucas never saw it coming.

It is difficult to make sense of this tragedy. Some may even blame the shark. We readily and willingly go into the territory of these ocean animals for the sake of our enjoyment. And for the most part we can do that without incident.

As I think about this young man who is described by friends and family as a wonderful soul, my heart breaks. The mother in me aches for this boy, this boy with a bright future and a big heart, this boy who loved his life and lost it too soon. The mother in me wants to make him safe.

I think about Lucas's friend Matt who was 2 feet away from him when he was attacked and how Matt tried to save his life despite his dire condition.

I watched his family speak about him and how much he loved the ocean and I cried. They went on to describe a smart, thoughtful and kind young man whose life was over too soon.

I have always loved the ocean and seeing wildlife in their natural environment but this is one that I hope I never experience for myself.

As a surfer, sharks may be in the back of your mind at one time or another, but when you are riding waves, you enjoy life, and nothing else matters.

I'm sure that is how Lucas felt that morning.

Look But Don't touch

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:34:00 +0000

When people think of California, two things come to mind—Hollywood and the beach. When out-of-towners that hear the word "Bay," they automatically think you are referring to San Francisco Bay.

The San Francisco Bay is great, but there is something about the effortless beauty of the South Bay.

On any given day (even if the clouds are blocking the sun) you can find children playing in the sand and surf. You can see adults doing everything from surfing to running on the sand to taking a stroll with their dog on the Strand.

Any given day, you may see dolphins surf with the surfers. The whales paddle with the paddlers. And the seals, well, they are our keenest observers, often taking a fish right off a fisherman's hook. Or you may find them in the kelp beds just watching someone give stand-up paddleboarding a try for the first time.

Even the California spiny lobsters seem to know when lobster fishing season starts they and are no longer safe in the open. Between early October and mid-March, the lobsters run and hide, backwards. But, until then, they hang out in the reefs seemingly knowing they are safe from divers.

If you do have the good fortune to be with one of natures amazing creatures in the wild, always use common sense. The wildlife may not seem to mind that you are there, but remember they are still wild and you are in their territory.

For me, being close to nature is like being in a museum, I don't need to touch. I'm happy just being a guest.

Fun With No Sun

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:32:00 +0000

According to the calendar, summer is over. According to most beach city residents, summer never began, or maybe began late.

As a South Bay resident I couldn't help but feel a little cheated this year. Don't we pay a premium to live here partially due to the great beach weather?

A bunch of our friends decided to plan a beach day before fall kicks into high gear. With the weather being fickle lately, we were not exactly sure what we would wake up to. We have witnessed Mother Nature at her finest in recent weeks.

June gloom has been here for most of the summer so I wasn't surprised when I looked outside. The kids didn't care what the weather was going to be; they were going to the beach, so we stayed the course and packed our gear.

We were the first family to arrive at the beach, and although we are not fair weather beach goers, I began to wonder if the other families would show up. Our fears were put to rest when we saw another family arrive, then another, then another.

I got comfy in my beach chair and watched the kids dig a hole in the sand for their "pool." They worked and worked with very little progress. Eventually, they employed one of the dads to chip in and help get the job done.

Once the hole was wide and deep enough for their liking, buckets of water were filled. As the water was poured into the hole and disappeared, so did the hope of sitting in a "pool." Recovering quickly as kids often do, the hole was then used to jump in and out of.

The waves were small but harsh as the tide was low causing the waves to break on the sand. A lone surfer paddled out into what I call "board breaking surf." He stayed out for about an hour, but didn't catch anything. Some days are like that, and just getting in the water can be somewhat satisfying.

Much further out in the water there was a lone stand-up paddleboarder cruising along the surface of the water. Not long after I spotted this stand-up paddleboarder, I noticed this lucky person had company in the form of a pod of dolphins. I could only imagine how exciting this was.

As I sat in my chair watching the wonderful layers of this day overlap, I was reminded that it's not the weather that keeps me rooted in the South Bay; it's the unplanned beauty in days like this. And it didn't hurt when the sun finally made an appearance.

Rain Changes Everything

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:30:00 +0000

All summer people talked about the weather. Some felt that we had a total of two weeks of summer weather, while others were happy to see the gloomy days and hoped the sun didn't come out in full force.

Last week it seemed like the Weather Gods were making up for lost time with 103-degree heat in Redondo Beach. I had a rough week and not just because of the heat, so I made plans to go surfing or stand-up paddleboarding or both. I had my heart set on going to The Cove, "locals" be dammed.

Unfortunately for me when I woke up Monday morning, it was raining. The forecast called for rain on Tuesday and Wednesday as well. This meant bad water quality.

In fact, Heal The Bay posted a Water Quality Alert on their website Monday morning cautioning beach goers to stay out of the water for a full 72 hours (3 days) after the rainfall has stopped.

Although gastrointestinal illness and upper respiratory infections are the most common illnesses associated with bacteria in the water, there are other disease-causing pathogens in the water that can make you sick.

Hepatitis A can survive long periods of time in salt water. Unfortunately, Hepatitis A is more common among surfers—some studies have found it to be three times more likely in a surfer than in average beach goers.

Bacteria and viruses commonly enter through the mouth, nose, eyes and ears, but can also enter through a small cut. You don't plan on swallowing water when you're surfing, but it does happens from time to time.

The best way to protect yourself from contracting hepatitis A is to stay out of the water for the full three days after the rain has stopped. The surf may be fantastic during a storm and you may be tempted, but you will also be taking unnecessary risk. The second way is to go to your doctor and get vaccinated for hepatitis A. You will receive two injections six months apart, which should protect you for approximately 20 years. Not a bad investment, I say.

Just for the record, I did get vaccinated for hepatitis A. I have another 10 years or so before I need to worry about it again.

You still won't catch me in the water for at least three more days.

It's A Big Ocean

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:25:00 +0000

As a surfer, it's common knowledge there are areas that are considered "locals only." In the South Bay, Lunada Bay is one of those places.

The Bay has epic waves, but it also has "The Bay Boys," a group notorious for harassing surfers who don't live in the area. One incident came to blows, followed by a lawsuit.

Just down the way from Lunada Bay is The Cove. The Cove is another beautiful location that has its fair share of big waves in the winter months. The Cove hasn't been plagued by tensions between wave riders. At least it wasn't until a week ago.

A surfer friend who is also a stand-up paddleboarder took his paddleboard out to The Cove in hopes of catching a couple of small waves. Being a courteous surfer and stand-up paddleboarder, he stayed at the end of the line-up and never paddled into the peak, allowing plenty of space between people.

With only six people in the water, this wasn't a difficult task.

He wasn't in the water very long when an older surfer verbally lashed out at him for being on a stand-up paddleboard. The older surfer continued to verbally harass him.

When my friend mentioned that he also surfed, the older surfer calmed down a little but then told him not to bring the stand-up paddleboard back into the water. He also told him to "tell his friends" the same.

The surfer went on to threaten bodily injury, suggesting that someone could kick their surfboard in his direction causing him to get hurt, and "that would be a shame." Both went on their separate ways without further incident.

When my friend came out of the water, another surfer who had witnessed some of the exchange mentioned that he has seen this surfer behave this way before.

Has this sport become so rigid that there isn't any room for anything or anyone else in the water? Is there any wonder why surfers are so often portrayed in an unflattering light?

What really saddens me about this behavior is it makes those of us who just want to have a good time look bad, and even worse, uncomfortable. I love The Cove and it would be a shame if I no longer felt safe surfing or stand-up paddleboarding there.

So, I wonder, is this what I have to look forward to the next time I want to stand-up paddleboard at The Cove?

Just A Number

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:23:00 +0000

Every year someone asks me what my New Years resolution is, and every year I have the same response: I don't make New Year's resolutions for the New Year; I make them for my birthday.

Today is a special day for me. Today I turn 40. I'm not ashamed to admit my age—it is what it is. There is no sense in fretting about it; I can't stop time. Besides, I knew this day would come…someday.

Is turning 40 that different than turning 30? Does turning 40 limit me in any way? Nah, I don't think so. Plus, I don't feel 40…whatever that is supposed to feel like.

In my twenties, I was going to school and working full-time. I was in great shape, running 4 miles a day and surfing regularly through the summer months. I would take weekend surf trips to San Diego County, and although I was busy with everyday life, I had no idea the true busyness to come.

In my thirties, I was newly married. We really wanted to start a family but we wanted to get some traveling in before hand, so we went to Canada and attended the Formula 1 Canadian Grand Prix, a highlight for us as avid F1 fans. We also traveled to Finland and were fortunate to have tickets to the Finnish Rally.

I think my forties will be every bit as exciting and fulfilling as my twenties and thirties were. We are busier than ever and have two amazing kids, which I am incredibly grateful for. I absolutely love being their mom.

In addition to surfing and learning how to stand-up paddleboard, I would love to get back into running. Physically, I know 40 feels nothing like 20 or 30. This is to be expected and shouldn't be surprising, but somehow still is. The last time I went surfing, I felt great out in the water but was tired later in the day.

I don't remember that in my twenties.

Do I miss my twenties and thirties? Maybe a little, but I know those days aren't coming back. So, to ring in my new year, I think I will start with a huge helping of gratitude with a side of life and end with a nice glass of wine.

Superwoman

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:22:00 +0000

It was a beautiful California day when I met Tamara Lentz for the first time. The sun had finally broken through the fog on her last wave of the day.

When I arrived, she was just finishing up a stand-up paddleboarding lesson with Michelle Hadidi of Manhattan Beach.

Tamara, a Redondo mom like me, carried her 9'0" C4 Waterman stand-up paddleboard out of the water with ease. I was surprised to see how short and narrow her board was, but she quickly pointed out that she rides a high-performance board made to surf and not just paddle around. She works part-time at Spyder Surf Shop in Hermosa Beach where she is having a board custom shaped just for her.

Before learning to stand-up paddleboard, Tamara surfed for two years. Then one day she and a friend decided to rent stand-up paddleboards and give it a try. She caught a wave on her first day and had been paddling into waves ever since. That was two-and-a-half years ago.

Tamara has become so passionate about stand-up paddleboarding she participated in two races this year. She finished fourth out of 12 women at the Santa Monica Pier Paddleboard race in June, and sixth out of 9 women in Hennessey's U.S. Paddling Championship in July.

Tamara, 36, is one of the fittest women I know. In addition to surfing and stand-up paddleboarding, she plays volleyball and is a personal trainer. She teaches spin classes four days a week and works in some Pilates classes, too. She does all of this and is also the mother of a 7-year-old boy whom she has already begun teaching how to surf.

Even with all the training and activity that she does, she pointed out that her best workout is on the stand-up paddleboard. "This is the best workout for your core muscles." Tamara said.

"I love it, it's my passion right now," she added.

Tamara said that it is really hard to explain how peaceful it is to cruise around out there. It wasn't long ago that she paddled a couple of miles out and saw whales. Her only wish was that she had brought her waterproof camera.

After spending a little time with Tamara Lentz, I couldn't help but feel her passion for living an active lifestyle. She is a woman to be admired and I for one am happy to see more women in the water.

And I think I'll take her up on her offer for a lesson or two.

On Second Thought, Don't Stand Up Straight

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:14:00 +0000

My husband, the thorough investigator, did extensive research before buying a stand-up paddleboard. I must admit, both the board and the paddle are beautiful and I wanted to try them out.

I just needed the opportunity.

When he told me that he was bringing his stand-up paddleboard on our surf date, I was excited. We planned on trading off my surfboard and his stand-up paddleboard. Perfect.

The tide was high and without a swell, our non-super secret location was a bust for surfing. After trying unsuccessfully to catch a couple of waves, we switched boards. The conditions were perfect for me to try my hand at stand-up paddleboarding.

My husband makes riding a stand-up paddleboard look incredibly easy. To say I was confident that I, too, would paddle with ease was an understatement. I mean, how hard can it be? After he gave me a few simple tips, I was eager to try.

My first mistake was overconfidence. My second mistake was trying to stand up too quickly. As I stood up the board began to wobble back and forth. In about five seconds, I landed into the cold ocean with a huge SPLASH.

I wasn't ready to give up.

On my second try, I was much less confident and much more hesitant. I took my time plotting how I would place my feet and keep a low center of gravity with my body before standing up. Although the deck pad is softer than a surfboard, my knees began to hurt, and I needed to stand up.

Slowly I rose, keeping my knees bent, raising my body inch by inch. I was finally upright. It lasted only seconds and I once again landed in the ocean with a resounding PLOP.

I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. My husband sat on my surfboard watching the comical sight.

On my next try, I followed his instructions, taking my time and once again keeping a low center of gravity. By the time I stood up, the tell-tell wobble-wobble of the board was a dead giveaway that I was going down. This time I tried to land on the board but only ended up hitting my knee before I landed in the ocean.

I couldn't have felt clumsier.

As I paddled around to get comfortable with the feel of the board, I reflected on the parallels to my life: Overconfidence, wobble-wobble, big splash, get back up and try again. Oh, the irony.

When I had my fill, we swapped our boards again. Much to my frustration, he effortlessly stood up and paddled away.

On the drive home I wanted to know what I had done wrong. My husband reiterated his tips, but basically I stood up too straight. Which is the complete opposite of what I do naturally.

Then he told me his board isn't stable and is narrower and shorter than an average board. His board is made for surfing, not just cruising around.

Next time, I may get a rental.

Sharks Are Swimming Nearby

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:05:00 +0000

As a surfer I'm asked many different questions. I'm often asked if I have a long board or short board. (For the record, I have an 8-0 long board, which means my board is 8 feet and 0 inches long.)

I am also asked about my favorite location and how many different places I have surfed. But by far, my favorite question is about sharks.

People love a good shark story.

As many times as I have been in the water and as many places I have been, you would think that by now I would have seen one while surfing. But the only sharks I have seen in the wild were reef sharks while I was snorkeling in Hawaii. They didn't show any curiosity and they weren't very big.

Lately, there have been a lot of reports of great white sharks in Southern California. A group called Shark Research Committee reported numerous recent sightings on the California coast, mostly at San Onofre State Beach in San Clemente, approximately 65 miles south of Redondo Beach and Sunset Beach near Malibu, approximately 40 miles north of Redondo Beach.

Chuck Patterson, a professional surfer and stand-up paddleboarder, recently filmed two great white sharks at San Onofre created a video called "Me, My Shark and I" that went viral online within 24 hours. Last week, a local news reporter and cameraman filmed a short video of a great white shark feeding on something in the water off Sunset Beach.

The last two reported shark sightings in the South Bay, by the way, were on April 16, 2010 and April 17, 2010. Both sightings were near Flat Rock in Palos Verdes. Both witnesses were spear fishing at the time they saw a shark.

Will all this local shark activity keep me out of the water? No.

When I am out in the ocean sitting on my board watching for waves, I really don't think about sharks. That isn't to say I wouldn't be scared if I encountered one, I just don't think about them when I'm in the water.

Sharks are always out there even if you don't see or hear about them. Adolescent great white sharks are known to feed on fish in this area every summer. As winter approaches and the waters become colder, the sharks head for Mexico where the waters are warmer.

There hasn't been a fatal shark attack in California since April 25, 2008. A great white fatally attacked a swimmer at Fletcher Cove in Solana Beach, located approximately 99 miles south of Redondo Beach.

If I do become a little nervous the next time I go surfing, I will keep in mind that shark-related fatalities are rare in California and an attack is usually a case of mistaken identity.

But, I will keep my eye out for a triangular dorsal fin, just in case.

Surf Date: A Swell Outing

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 01:01:00 +0000

We stand at the top of the cliff looking down at our non-super secret location. I have seen this view many times, but it's been 13 years since I have seen this view with the intention of surfing here.

My husband brought his stand-up paddleboard and I brought my surfboard. "It's a lake," he announces. "Yeah it is, but never underestimate my ability to catch a cheater wave," I said, smiling at him. He knows my confidence is overstated because it truly looks like a lake and we have yet to see any white water that can be surfed. "Let's do this," I said, knowing I have a better chance catching a cold than a wave.

I grab some board wax and begin to apply it to the sweet spot on my surfboard. Then I work some onto the rails and on the nose of my board. My husband laughs, "Way up there, huh?" he said, making reference to my application of wax to the very front of my board. "Hey, what if I catch a perfect little wave and decide to ride toes on the nose? I need to be prepared."

At first glance on the hike down, everything looks the same. Except for one thing: The kelp beds are overgrown.

Some people find the kelp annoying, and sure, it can be when your leash is caught, or slows you down as you paddle out. But for me, the kelp is a pleasant reminder that there is life here.

Ever the planner, I discover that I have not thought of everything. I didn't bring my booties and this is a place where booties are essential. I take my chances with my bare feet. I slowly and cautiously walk over loose rocks of all shapes and sizes until the water is deep enough for me to hop on my board.

The paddle out is long and I definitely feel my arms getting fatigued. My leash is caught in the kelp and is causing some drag, but I power through.

I paddle by my husband, who informs me that my leash is broken. The strap is still attached to my ankle, but the cord is no longer attached to the strap. Well, that explains how I suddenly got through the kelp with ease.

Now I have something to worry about: Wiping out and possibly hitting someone with my wayward board (mainly my husband) or having my board wash ashore and get damaged on the rocks. Neither scenario is good, but I won't let that stop me. I will be extra careful.

We are alone in the line-up therefore my only competition for a wave is my husband. He selflessly lets me take what I want.

I see a set coming so I turn myself around and begin to paddle. As much as I feel like I have this one, the wave never forms. As it turns out, there is such a thing as too small when it comes to waves.

But I am stubborn and I decide to try again on the next set. Once again I have a similar result. My husband, on the other hand, uses his paddle and effortlessly catches the smallest of waves. Sweepers, they can catch anything.

A slight ocean breeze chills my skin and I love the contrast of the warmth from the sun. Most couples on a date sit across from each other. We are side by side in the ocean and I can't imagine being happier at this moment.

As I look across a kelp bed I see we have company. "Hey, look over there," I call to my husband. "Shark bait," we say in unison, laughing. The seal's shinny little head pokes out of the kelp just feet away from us. He watches us as intently as we watch him.

"Shark Bait," as we have affectionately named him, hangs out with us, going from kelp bed to kelp bed, watching me paddle into waves that literally reform under my board and never come to fruition.

Instead of worrying about what I do or don't catch, I relax and enjoy myself. I'm on a date.

In the end, the day wasn't a loss. I did try my husband's stand-up paddleboard, and I made a friend. I had a great time.

And I know we'll go out again.

Catching Waves While Worrying About The Kids

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 00:57:00 +0000

Surfing is proving to be way more challenging than I thought it would be. The waves in the water aren't stopping me, the waves in my life are.

There will always be the challenge of time, or school, or someone that is sick. Those things come up on a regular basis. I'm used to that. What has me stalled is the challenge of balance within myself.

Times have changed and now I'm a mom. Having children has changed more than just my waistline. I view myself differently. I am a mother and I am responsible for someone other than just myself.

Of course, part of my job as a mother is to take good care of myself for the sake of our girls. There are days this is my most difficult task.

A few days ago, I was planning to go surfing by myself when something came over me. As the day I planned to go approached, I became increasingly nervous about going out alone.

I've been nervous before, but this time was different. This time, I felt irresponsible. This time, I thought about taking care of our children's mother.

When I was in my twenties, I was responsible only for myself. That combined with stamina and confidence made me a little more daring. Now I'm a little more cautious.

I don't claim to be supermom, but I am and want to be 100 percent present in our kids' lives. Being careless and getting hurt won't accomplish that.

The last time I went surfing I had concerns about being alone, but the excitement of getting back into the water kept other fears at bay.

I was anxious, but in a good way.

I am well aware that as I get older my stamina and physical shape changes, but I refuse to let any of that hold me back. Which is why this week I am once again excited. And I have a date.

My husband and I have planned a surf date. We are going to go to our non-super secret location. I haven't been there in years and have been looking forward to going with him.

Too much time has passed since we last surfed together and a long time coming for us to go again. I have every detail worked out. All I need now is a healthy coat of board wax and I am good to go.

The forecast for the day: Excitement with a chance of wave riding.

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 00:54:00 +0000

There is something about the ocean that has always fascinated me. I grew up wishing I were a mermaid long before Ariel made her big screen debut and was popular among young girls.

For me, it isn't just an enchantment with water, it is with the ocean itself, and all that's in it. I had this feeling so young, I can't remember a time that I didn't feel it.

Loving the ocean is such a big part of my life. I was thrilled when I met my husband and found out that we had this is common. Our mutual love of the ocean and water sports was a huge plus, and an important element in our relationship.

When we met, I was surfing regularly and he was on an outrigger canoe team. He wanted to learn how to surf and was pretty determined to learn, just like I once was.

Years have passed, and now he goes surfing and stand-up paddleboarding regularly. And he has surpassed my skill level.

When we married, we wanted to live near the ocean. It just wouldn't work for us any other way. We also knew we wanted to have children, two to be exact. We never cared if we had boys or girls or one of each. For the record, we have two beautiful girls.

We are raising our girls to believe they can do and be anything in life. I once heard our oldest say that she couldn't do something because she isn't a boy. My heart stopped.

I explained to her that the only limitations she has in this life are the ones she put on herself. She warmed up really quickly to the idea of trying anything that interests her.

When you have two people who enjoy the ocean, shouldn't any offspring from that union have a similar feeling? Yeah, not so much.

My girls love the beach, but not the ocean. It baffles me. How it is possible that not one, but both of our girls don't like to go into the ocean. They love swimming in pools, even lakes, but not the ocean. I realize the waves can be a little scary for them and the water a little cold at times.

Once on a family vacation in Hawaii, I actually got them in the water, briefly. I'm not entirely proud of how I accomplished this. Actually, the bribe was shaved ice. I told myself I would never resort to bribing my kids, but there I was, desperate for them to know they would be safe. Plus, 80-degree water didn't hurt. And they were safe. They were with me.

I haven't given up hope. Our oldest daughter is getting curious about surfing, so I will be encouraging the curiosity. It can only help that both of her parents surf.

As they become stronger swimmers and develop their ocean sense, I hope that in time they too will love the water and not just the sand.

Surfing Is All About Location

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 00:47:00 +0000

I've never put much thought into how many different places I have surfed. I really don't have a number, but I have only surfed in two states, California and Hawaii. Although, I've surfed at many locations along the coast of California, I'm a creature of habit and tend to go back to what I know.

When people discover that I surf, one of the first things they want to know is where I like to surf. Of course, I divulge this information without hesitation, but I am the exception, not the rule. There are plenty of surfers who would rather not name their favorite spot in an effort to keep out crowds. This is different than localism, or those who feel they own specific locations.

On one occasion in Hawaii on the island of Kauai, the person I was on vacation with learned first hand that some surfing locations are for "locals only." He was hassled in the water and out. We left without incident, but it was unnerving.

Of course, this kind of behavior isn't isolated to one surf spot and Hawaii is by no means unusual. Southern California's coast has not been immune to certain threatening behaviors from territorial surfers.

There is a place that I surfed only a couple of times that happens to be one of my husband's favorite places. It's not a super secret location and if you don't mind hiking to it, it is open to the public.

My husband and I have been planning a day to go there for nearly two weeks. We have been looking forward to surfing together for the first time in eight years at our non-super secret location. I actually thought: Who needs date nights when we can have surf dates.

The plan was set. He had the day off from work and we had the kids taken care of for the day. The surf and weather conditions were forecasted to be ideal and I couldn't wait for the day to come. I looked forward to the long paddle out to the line up. I couldn't wait to feel the morning sun warming my face and the fresh air filling my lungs. It was to be the perfect day, that is until I woke up.

My throat was on fire and my head was pounding. I was sick.

As I turned over, there was a little cherub face in my face that had the agonizing look of how I felt.

"Good morning, Sweetie," I said. "Mommy, my throat hurts," my four year old said before starting to cough.

And just like that our well laid out plan was sidelined indefinitely.

My husband reported that the day was indeed beautiful and he caught several waves. The morning sun warmed his face and he got his fair share of fresh air. And he wished I were there.

Worth The Risk

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 00:43:00 +0000

When I was a kid my family along with several other families would go camping on the beach in Ventura County. This was by far my favorite place to camp. To this day, I have never seen better tide pools. It was here I saw the only baby octopus I have ever seen in nature. It was also here that I saw the aftermath of a surfing accident.

I was playing in the sand with my friends, getting buckets of water for the moat we built around our sand castle. Two surfers walked by with their boards and went into the water. I watched them paddle out, but they went to a point that was out of sight. I got back to working on the castle.

I don't know how much time passed, but I remember hearing the sirens growing louder as the ambulance got closer. One of the two guys that paddled out was pulled out of the water with blood on his face and head. I was in shock. Later, I learned he wiped out on a wave and his board popped out of the water and hit him in the head, knocking him out cold.

I remember being afraid of surfing after what I saw. To this day, I still have a fear of getting hit in the head by my board.

After growing out of building sand castles, I used to lie back on my towel and prop myself up on my elbows so I could watch the surfers. I loved the way they would use their upper arm and back muscles to propel themselves and their board forward in the water. From the shore, their energy seemed boundless.

I would daydream about sitting on a surfboard out in the surf line, squinting in the sun as I watched and waited for the perfect set.

I don't recall seeing any girls surfing, but that didn't stop me from wanting to. I knew I wasn't ready for a surfboard, so I decided to try the next best thing, a bodyboard. I begged my mom for a Morey body board. It seemed like such a logical place to start. Looked easy enough, plus I considered that I was a small kid and I just might be able to stand up on it. Don't try that one at home, kids. They don't call them bodyboards for nothing.

I paddled my new bodyboard into a wave. I got tumbled. I stood up, feeling my head. I had a fair amount of sand pasted in my hair and a permanent crease in my body board, but no blood anywhere.

Getting in the ocean with a body board was great practice for what was eventually to come. There is something truly motivating about fear, and something truly exhilarating about conquering it.

Back In the Water

noreply@blogger.com (Tori MacLennan) — Sat, 25 Dec 2010 00:39:00 +0000

Today I went surfing after an eight-year hiatus. I never meant to wait that long, but two kids later here I was, going back in as a mom.

I woke up early, a little anxious to get ready for today's adventure. I even woke the kids up a little early. The sooner I got them out the door to summer camp and preschool, the sooner I could head down to the beach. Surfboard? Check. Wetsuit? Check. All I needed now was a healthy coat of sunscreen and I'd be ready to go.

My husband, who is a surfer and stand-up paddleboarder, has been trying to get me to surf again for years. He is so happy I'm getting back in the water, he offered to drive the kids to their respective destinations before work this morning. I took him up on the offer and prepared to head out.

It was the middle of the week, so I was half expecting to be the only person in the water, which made me nervous. I mentioned this to my husband who promptly responded, "Surf near a lifeguard tower." Okay, but I know that surfing is not like riding a bike-- I will be starting all over again, a newbie. Add to that I'm not in the same shape I was in ten years ago. But my husband reminded me of one very important fact: I will still have my ocean sense. That won't be gone.

I knew he was right, and I felt better hearing it. When I was learning to surf, I really didn't know how to paddle out and not get tumbled. I didn't know that waves come in, in repetitive sets, and you can usually find a small break every few minutes so you don't get worked trying to paddle out. My timing will be off, but not my ocean sense.

I drove to the beach and looked for parking. The fact that I had to drive around to find parking didn't surprise me. When I finally parked, it hit me: I'm doing this, by myself. I just may be crazy. A friend of mine was so concerned about me going out on my own she made me promise to call before I got in the water and as soon as I got out. Girlfriends are great like that.

With my wetsuit half on, I carried my 8'0" tri fin longboard to the beach. My board was heavier and more awkward than I remembered. As the surfline came into view, I saw that the water was crowded with surfers and the surf was about 2-3 feet, not the 1-2 feet I was expecting. It might not sound like much of a difference, but I would have been happy with ankle-high surf. I was secretly hoping for a lake. I thought my problem would be surfing alone, but I had the opposite problem: Too many surfers. I looked around for a place to be by myself so I didn't accidently run into anyone.

I spotted the perfect place with a left surf break, away from the crowds. As I zipped up my wetsuit and attached my leash, I watched the sets come in, looked for the break I needed and paddled out. I started to wonder, will the ocean taste the same after all this time, and will the experience feel the same as it once did?

I paddled out with one goal in mind: Don't get caught in breaking waves. I kept paddling to the spot I picked from the shoreline. When I reached it, I inhaled the fresh air deeply, sat up on my board and caught my breath. The last time I surfed here, the dolphins were swimming next to me. It was an amazing experience.

As I looked around hoping to see them again, I was reminded how peaceful the ocean is. How the sun casts its light, making every ripple in the water sparkle. I've missed out on more than just waves over the past eight years, a lot more. Just being out there is what I missed. I didn't catch a single wave that day, but it didn't matter. I was out there, and I was happy just being out there.