Tourdust Blog

Sapa, Mai Chau or Pu Luong

Fri, 31 Jan 2020 15:08:00 +0000

Vietnam's dramatic rural areas with towering mountains, verdant green rice terraces and traditional villages is a highlight of a trip to Vietnam. But from Sapa to Mai Chau to Pu Luong, what is the best way to experience rural Vietnam?

Option 1: Sapa

North of Hanoi and near the border with China, Sapa has long been the big draw for dramatic mountain scenery, rice terraces, traditional tribal villages an treks. Unfortunately, it is has been woefully over-developed over the last 10-15 years and to a greater extent is now best avoided. There is an exception to every rule, and in Sapa that exception is Topas Eco Lodge, a fantastic high-end eco lodge in the most dramatic situation atop a hill and thankfully well away from the excesses of Sapa itself.

Pros: Dramatic Scenery, Ethnic Minority Villages, Great hiking

Cons: Distance from Hanoi, Sapa itself is over-developed (but Topas Ecolodge is remote and excellent), you have to start and finish with overnights in Hanoi

Example Itinerary:
D1: Transfer Hanoi to Sapa (5-6hr drive)
D2: Sapa - Trekking
D3: Transfer to Hanoi an overnight Hanoi OR Overnight Train back to Hanoi

Option 2: Mai Chau and Pu Luong

The Mai Chau and Pu Luong areas lie South West of Hanoi and are a less developed alternative to Sapa. Mai Chau offers slightly less dramatic scenery and is starting to get more touristy, but Pu Luong remains thankfully untouched stunning scenery and great trekking

Pros: Dramatic Scenery, Ethinic minority villages, great trekking (Mai Chau better for gentle walks and cycling, Pu Luong better for dramatic scenery, rice terraces, trekking), you can combine with Ninh Binh and Halong Bay to make a circular trip from Hanoi

Cons: Mai Chau getting over-developed, only basic and mid range accommodation availble.

Example Itinerary:
D1: Transfer Hanoi to Mai Chau or Pu Luong (4hrs drive)
D2: Mai Chau Eco Lodge (cycling and villages) or Pu Luong Retreat (trekking)
D3: Return to Hanoi (4hrs drive)
D4: Transfer to Halong (3hrs drive)

Alternative Itinerary including Ninh Binh:
D1: Transfer Hanoi to Mai Chau or Pu Luong (4hrs drive)
D2: Mai Chau or Pu Luong
D3: Transfer to Ninh Binh (4hrs drive)
D4: Transfer to Halong (3hrs drive)

Option 4: Homestay in Hanoi Countryside

There is pleasant countryside around Hanoi. And whilst it can't compete in terms of dramatic scenery, it does at least give a sense of traditional Vietnamese rural life. This can be done as a day tour from Hanoi or as an overnight in a comfortable homestay.

Pros: Closer to Hanoi

Cons: Not as dramatic scenery

Example Itinerary:
D1: Transfer to Moon Garden (1hr drive)
D2: Moon Garden Homestay
D3: Transfer to Halong Bay 3-4hr drive

Costa Rica: Carribbean or Pacific Coast?

Fri, 31 Jan 2020 14:09:00 +0000

A few days relaxing on the beach is the ideal end to a Costa Rica trip, but which Coast is best to visit, the Caribbean or Pacific?

Generally speaking the Caribbean side is more laid back and low key with small guesthouses only, whilst the Pacific is more built up with larger hotels and resorts. However, behind every general rule are exceptions. Nosara on the Guanacaste Peninsula is a bit of an exception on the Pacific Coast as it is very laid back with a strong surf and yoga vibe and strict controls on development. Likewise the Southern Pacific Coast around the Osa Peninsula and the Gulfo Dulce offers pristine rainforest, remote beaches and a smattering of high-end eco lodges.

Puerto Vieja on the Southern Caribbean Coast is ideal for those wanting a low key beach stay with a bit of wildlife and snorkelling. It is also gets better weather than the Pacific Coast from mid August, September and October. Accommodation options are very limited, so if our pick of the bunch, Hotel Aqua Claras isn't available, then we may need to think again.

Nosara on the Pacific Coast is our favourite destination for an active beach stay, with excellent surfing, yoga and mountain biking, a fantastic low key vibe and couple of great small resorts.

The Osa Peninsula and the Gulfo Dulce is stunning with gorgeous remote eco lodges, pristine forest, wildlife and remote beaches. This area however suffers the worst of the rainy season in July, August, September and October. It can also be very expensive.

Other beach locations to consider include Manuel Antonio, Papagayo, Tamarindo and Santa Teresa. These are all busier, more touristy spots, but each has their own charm.

The Best Family Hotels In Marrakech

Mon, 14 Oct 2019 12:24:00 +0100

Marrakech is famous for its beautiful traditional riads. These tend to be hosted guesthouses with only 4-6 bedrooms with lots of lovely living spaces, courtyards and roof terraces. Set within the heart of the Medina (Marrakech's old town), they offer a secluded respite from the sounds, smells and mania of the souks. Many are owner operated, few have swimming pools, but without doubt they are the best base for exploring the souks and sights of Marrakech. Why? It is all about the location. The sights, sounds and smells of the souks can be a lot to take in, and for families it just works so much better being able to pop into the souks for a couple of hours before retreating to the peace and serenity of your riad as needed. Another hidden benefit of riads is that with all the living spaces, you can put the kids to bed and then relax with a book or a drink in a comfortable lounge area just outside their room. View all of our Morocco Family Holidays

Riads with Family Rooms That Sleep 4 or More

Unfortunately, very few riads have family rooms. Two of the best that do are Riad Dar Hanane, whose Grande Suite comfortably sleeps a young family of 4 or 5 and Riad Dar Housnia whose Douira Suite has two bedrooms and sleeps 4. We often also use Riad Jona when those two aren't available and for an upgrade, El Fenn has superb two bedroom rooms. Although be warned, El Fenn is one of Marrakech's most exclusive riads and not all families will enjoy the rather grown up atmosphere.

Family Friendly Riads with Swimming Pools

Plunge pools and small swimming pools are increasingly common in Marrakech's riads. It is worth noting that these are only really useful from May to September as they tend to be in the shade and not warm enough in spring and autumn. Riad Dar Housnia is lovely choice with its two bedroom douira suite and a refreshing small swimming pool. Riad Up is an excellent affordable mid range option with a small swimming pool. Riad El Arsat is a larger riad which in truth feels a little more like a small hotel, but does benefit from an unusually large garden and swimming pool. The luxurious and uber stylish El Fenn has a good sized pool and some of the family suites have private pools

Riads For Exclusive Rental

It is wonderful to have the run of a riad for your family, you don't need to worry about noise and you still have the staff to take care of breakfast and give you plenty of tips on what to do and where to eat. Riad Tzarra is a lovely 4 bedroom riad we often use for exclusive riad rental.

Larger Hotels in Walking Distance of The Medina

Although not strictly riads, these hotels all have a strong sense of place and are within walking distance of the Medina. La Maison Arabe has a reputation as one of Marrakech's best hotels and deservedly so.

Family-Friendly Resorts in Marrakech

There are plenty of lovely resorts with larger pools and extensive facilities in the broader Marrakech area, but with the exception of the Four Seasons, these are all at least 15 minutes taxi drive from the old town. They are perfect bases for relaxation by the pool and taking advantage of Marrakech's hot and sunny climate, but in our opinion are less useful as a base for exploring the souks. The barrier of havig to get a taxi in, just sets you up on the back foot for a day exploring the souks, you have to deal with negotiating a rate with the drivers and end up feeling like you need to stay out all day. We just find it a more stressful and less successful way to take on the souks.

We often end up booking two centre trips for our clients who are families, with 2-3 nigths in a traditional riad in the old town and then a stay in a relaxing resort hotel with all the pools and facilities to keep the kids happy. That way you get the best of both world.

Whilst other resorts come and go, Les Deux Tours has consistently been one of the best options in the Marrakech countryside with beautiful gardens and large pools. Jnane Tamsna offers a similar proposition with the added benefit of a tennis court. The Royal Palm is one of the best larger family friendly resorts in Marrakech and has always had fantastic feedback from our family clients. For families on a budget, Villa 55 is an excellent mid range option.

Tourdust is a boutique tour operator specialising in luxury and adventure family travel for families of all ages. Our team have all travelled to Marrakech with their own children aged from 1 to 18 and everything in between. So whether you are travelling with young toddlers, teenagers or the whole family with multiple generations of babies, toddlers, teenagers, parents and grandparents, get in touch to start building your Morocco family adventure.

Sri Lanka’s Beaches And When To Go

Thu, 11 Jan 2018 16:46:00 +0000

January to April - Hot and Dry

From January to April, Sri Lanka experiences its peak season, with hot, sunny and dry weather throughout the country. It’s the perfect time of the year for visiting the coast, and the higher altitudes of the hill country offer a cool respite from the heat. April in particular can be very hot.

What’s the climate like in Sri Lanka between January and April?

The climate during these months tends to be quite hot and dry, with plenty of sunshine to bask in. The average day experiences anything from seven to eight hours of sunshine, more than any other time of year. As for the temperature, it’s pleasantly warm, though as it starts getting closer to April, the temperature starts rising. April experiences the warmest weather and the heat between 11am and 3am can sometimes be hard to tolerate, though if you stick to the south and the coast, the cool sea winds should make the hotter weather a lot more bearable. Rainfall is minimal at this time of year.

What beaches are swimmable in Sri Lanka between January and April?

You should find that pretty much every beach is swimmable from January to April. The hot temperatures and dry winds make these months the best time of the year to enjoy beach holidays. April in particular is very good for trips to the beach as the weather is at its peak and the days are sunny, hot and long. Along the south coast, the all-round, tourist friendly Unawatuna is a top choice, whereas Mirissa is particularly good at this time of year for whale watching.

Where not to go in Sri Lanka between January and April

Those with an aversion to particularly high temperatures may want to avoid visiting the Cultural Triangle during April. This is because temperatures there can reach as high as the mid-30°C’s. Those looking to climb Sigiriya Rock may want to avoid doing so during April, again because of the potentially high temperatures. From January to March, there’s really nowhere in particular that you should avoid going, since the weather is both pleasant and bearable throughout the whole country.

May to June - Monsoon Season In the Southwest

The southwest of Sri Lanka, including Colombo, Galle and Tangalle, experiences monsoon season during these months. It’s not as severe as the name suggests, as rainfall tends to be short and heavy and passes through quickly.

What’s the climate like in Sri Lanka in May and June?

If you’re staying in the southwest, the climate will of course be affected by the monsoon season, with frequent heavy showers that actually tend to pass quite quickly. Sri Lanka experiences two annual monsoons: this first one is the southwestern one (its winds blow up from the southwest) and is known as the ‘Yala’ monsoon. In May, the effects of the monsoon are more pronounced, whereas in June, the rains are usually less heavy and the winds less strong. When it’s not raining, it’s quite sunny with favourable temperatures. The northern part of the island doesn’t experience the effects of the monsoon so much, so it’s typically quite hot and dry.

What beaches are swimmable in Sri Lanka in May and June?

Throughout the months of May and June, you may see red flags put out by beachside hotels and resorts advising against swimming in the sea because of the monsoon weather. This tends to happen at beaches along the south and west coasts. However, there are still opportunities for swimming - it just depends on the beach and weather on the day. Generally speaking, June’s weather is more favourable as the effects of the monsoon start to subside, so you’ve got a better chance of finding swimmable beaches then; also in June, water sports and other water-based activities are fairly common. The north and east coasts are perhaps best for swimmable beaches at this time of year because the weather is better and you’ll rarely see signs telling you not to go swimming in the sea - the peaceful Arugam Bay, along with the unspoiled Uppuveli and Nilaveli are good choices at this time of year.

Where not to go in Sri Lanka in May and June

The southwest’s monsoon season is actually quite bearable since winds aren’t too strong and showers tend to be short. Therefore, even areas that experience monsoon weather in May and June, i.e. the west and south coasts, are very much still worth visiting. There’s no particular part of the country that you should outrightly avoid at this time of year. However, if you’re looking to avoid the monsoon and want better weather for guaranteed swimming at beaches, you ought to stick to the north and east coasts.

July to September - Hot and Mostly Dry

Falling between the two monsoon seasons, July and August tend to be hot and dry with the odd shower. It’s the second most popular time of the year to visit Sri Lanka after the January - April period. West and south coast beaches tend in the main to be too rough for swimming at this time of year.

What’s the climate like in Sri Lanka during July, August and September?

July in particular experiences effects of the summer monsoon, though it’s mainly in the south and western parts of the country; any rainfall is likely to be infrequent and minimal. It also experiences the fewest average daily hours of sunshine, with just three hours a day expected. During these three months, the weather tends to be hot and dry, while temperatures are on the whole fairly consistent. Winds and rain start to pick up towards the end of September, with cyclones starting to appear across the country, so August is often considered the best of these three months to visit.

What beaches are swimmable in Sri Lanka during July, August and September?

From July to September, a lot of beaches along both the west and south coasts will be marked as unswimmable. This is largely due to the sea becoming rougher due to the effects of the monsoon. However, that’s not to say there are no opportunities to go swimming in the sea at all: some beaches will be open for swimming, though only if the weather on the day permits it. If you’re visiting the west and south coasts, there’s no guarantee that the beaches will be open for swimming; however, if you stick to the north and east coasts, you should be able to swim the vast majority of the time since these parts of the country don’t experience the effects of the monsoon. Visit the west and south coasts during August - of these three months it has the most favourable weather - for your best chance at finding a beach where you can swim in the sea. Tangalle, backed by lush countryside, is a top choice during August.

Where not to go in Sri Lanka during July, August and September

There’s no particular part of the country that you should avoid visiting in July through to September. If you’re looking to go swimming in the sea, you may want to stick to the north and east coasts, where you’ll rarely find beaches closed off due to bad weather. In all, these few months are among the best for visiting Sri Lanka, though if there’s a time not to visit, it’s late September - choose August instead. This is because the second half of September sees the weather turn inclement due to the country’s second annual monsoon season starting.

October to December - Monsoon Season In the Northeast

The monsoon from the North East affects the whole of Sri Lanka with often heavy rain, albeit rather unpredictable in timing and intensity. It’s the least popular time for visiting Sri Lanka. However, after the monsoons have receded in December, it can actually be a pleasant time of year to visit with sparkling green scenery.

What’s the climate like in Sri Lanka during October, November and December?

With the country’s second annual monsoon, known as ‘Maha’ being in full swing, October tends to be the wettest month of the year across the whole island. Winds are usually quite strong and cyclones can be quite common. The north sees the most rainfall and thunderstorms, with frequent, sporadic showers and fewer storms elsewhere in the country. Favourable weather gradually starts returning throughout November and December, with temperatures increasing and rainfall lessening. Note that in the northern part of the country, the monsoon effects last longer, whereas along the south and western coasts, the monsoon effects don’t last as long and favourable weather returns sooner rather than later.

What beaches are swimmable in Sri Lanka during October, November and December?

Few beaches along the west and south coasts will be swimmable in October due to the increased rainfall and cyclones brought about by the monsoon. You’re more likely to find beaches open for swimming in November and December when the monsoon starts to subside and favourable weather conditions return. There may well be the odd few days where there’s no rainfall predicted and beaches are opened for swimmers. Hikkaduwa has long been a top choice with tourists and remains popular today, especially with surfers.

Where not to go in Sri Lanka during October, November and December

You should perhaps avoid visiting the Northeast during this time of year. This is because the monsoon blows in from the Northeast, so this part of the country experiences significantly heavier rainfall and stronger winds than elsewhere; the effects of the monsoon also last longer here. You may also want to avoid the west and south coasts during the first half of October when the monsoon is at its strongest; it’s by far the strongest of the country’s two annual monsoons.

Yala or Wilpattu National Park?

Thu, 16 Nov 2017 12:05:00 +0000

For a small island, Sri Lanka boasts an impressively diverse terrain and a great variety activities from tropical beach stays and water sports, to cultural temple and tea plantation visits and, to top it all, some superb wildlife experiences. Two of Sri Lanka’s most popular destinations are the Yala and Wilpattu National Parks. Both parks offer striking landscapes and abundant wildlife, but they are located at opposite ends of the island and if you’re under time constraints it may not be practical to visit both during your stay. We’ve put together some highlights and key differences to consider when making a choice between which of the two to visit.

Both parks are fringed by the Indian Ocean; Yala National Park is located in Sri Lanka’s accessible southeast, whilst Wilpattu National Park is tucked away in a more secluded setting on the northwest coast. Stunningly beautiful, Yala is Sri Lanka’s most visited national park, and its landscape is divided into five ‘blocks’. Block 1 has good, easy-to-navigate roads, and this is where safaris most commonly take place. In contrast, Wilpattu is wild and remote – the largest of Sri Lanka’s national parks - and unrestricted game drives can take place anywhere within this vast stretch of land.

Yala’s landscape comprises a mix of open plains, rocky crags, verdant jungle and secluded beaches. Wilpattu offers up huge expanses of forest dotted with waterholes which attract diverse wildlife, particularly during the dry season. Wildlife is plentiful in both parks, although note that more patience will be required in Wilpattu where the animals are more greatly dispersed across a wider area and less accustomed to vehicle traffic. Tented, eco-friendly camps in both parks offer comfortable on-site accommodation combined with game drives and other activities such as cookery classes, archery, photography lessons, birdwatching and nature walks depending on where you stay. These multi-day safari adventures provide the unique opportunity to become fully immersed in the natural surroundings, and families with young children are welcome.

August denotes the beginning of Yala’s dry season when the vegetation dies back and game visibility increases significantly. As the dry season draws to a close later in September, access to water becomes a priority for wildlife and block 1 in Yala might close to visitors for up to six weeks to enable animals to move more freely between the shrinking waterholes. Should block 1 close, safaris will usually continue to take place in alternative sections of the park. Yala’s peak season is during the rainy months of December and January when elephant, buffalo, crocodile and some spectacular, colourful birdlife including parrots and peacocks can be seen. Named after the Sri Lankan leopard, Yala boasts one of the highest densities of leopard on the planet, and the park’s compact size tends to offer higher returns for game viewing, especially as the animals have become used to the presence of vehicles.

Secluded and in many parts unexplored, Wilpattu is also home to abundant wildlife including elephant, crocodile, sloth bear, wild pig and the elusive leopard. Leopard numbers in Wilpattu are significant, but the overall population is not yet known, as the park only reopened in 2009 following the end of civil war. Sloth bears can be viewed in both parks all year round, but are particularly prevalent in Wilpattu. From May to July, these intriguing creatures feast on fruit from the Palu (ironwood) tree, and can often be observed out in the open, enjoying a contented, post-dinner snooze!

The lower visitor numbers and vast wilderness of Wilpattu often guarantee complete privacy when game viewing, whereas the more accessible wildlife sightings in Yala make this park extremely popular with visitors, and so congestion is only to be expected during peak times and public holidays.

Your First Safari

Fri, 10 Feb 2017 16:45:00 +0000

Your First Safari

Explore

Your First Safari

A first safari is a once in a lifetime experience and the choices can be bewildering. Costs vary widely from country to country and safaris can range from the relatively tame to the utterly wild. We've distilled our experience and knowledge on the key factors we use to design safaris, so grab a cup of tea and don't forget, give us a call at any time to start planning your safari.

Where should I go on safari?

How long should I go for?

The different types of safaris

Where is safe to go?

Where Should I go on Safari?

South Africa

South Africa is fantastic for lower cost shorter safaris making for a perfect combination with Cape Town and the Garden Route. The food & wine is invariably world class and there are even Malaria Free Safari options.

South Africa is definitely not as wild as other safari locations and is less suitable for a longer multi habitat safari.

Tanzania

Tanzania boasts an embaressment of riches with Ngorongoro Crater, The Serengeti, Kilimanjaro, superb predator viewing opportunities and the Wildebeest Migration. Zanzibar's sparkling beaches are also in easy reach.

Tanzania's Northern Circuit can involve significant driving times and Tanzania is less suitable for more active adventure safaris than Kenya, Zambia and Zimbabwe

Kenya

Kenya is the original safari destination and is still one of the most popular with its iconic African Savannah grasslands, superb predator viewing, Wildebeest Migration and Northern wilderness areas. Kenya combines well with Indian Ocean beaches.

Overcrowding and minibus safaris in the national parks can be an issue, but is easily avoided by sticking to private conservancies.

Botswana

Botswana is the purists choice thanks to its carefully managed low visitor numbers and stunning Okovango Delta. It is one of Africa's safest countries to visit and combines well with Victoria Falls and Cape Town.

Low visitor numbers and exclusive conservancies don't come cheap though, Botswana is easily Africa's most expensive and exclusive safari destination.

Namibia

Namibia boasts arguably the most stunning dramatic landscapes in Africa, fascinating desert adapted wildlife and is relatively safe and easy to self drive.

On the downside, it offers a limited wildlife experience and long driving distances.

Zambia

Zambia is famous for its excellent standard of guiding, owner operated camps, walking safaris and good value for money.

Zambia is definitely best suited to those looking for more of an adventure

How Long Should I go on Safari For?

For a first time safari, we would usually recommend between three days and one week on actual safari with the rest of the trip spent exploring cultural / scenic locations or relaxing at the beach. The reasons for this are twofold. Firstly, the safari tends to be the most expensive part of any trip. Secondly, you don't want to spend all that money and half-way through your trip feel you've had your fill of game drives. We find that whilst some people could happily go on game drives every day of their life and never grow tired, others are happy to move on after 3-4 days.

2-4 Days

Perfect if you want a relaxed holiday combining with beach or Cape Town, Garden Route or Victoria Falls. At the right place you'll see plenty of wildlife and just enough time to catch the safari bug and leave wanting more.

5-7 Days

Our most often recommended option is to combine two contrasting safari locations, staying 2-3 nights in each. This gives a broader diversity of wildlife, habitat and experience (game drives, walking safari, boat safari).

8-14 Days

With longer than a week, you have time to do a country properly. These longer trips make more sense for a seasoned safari-goer or for a once in a lifetime first time safari trip.

14+ Days

We often work on longer 2- 6 week multi-country trips for clients planning a once in a lifetime trip, or just looking to escape winter. Masai Mara, Gorilla Trekking, Vic Falls, Okavango Delta and Namibia is a hard to beat combo but care must be taken to keep budget under control!

The different types of Safari

Broadly speaking there are two types of safari. The two big questions to ask yourself are (1) Is it essential that you see the big five? and (2) How adventurous are you?

Wildlife locations

Predators present in big numbers but the experience is usually limited to game drives (e.g. Masai Mara, Serengeti etc.)

Wilderness locations

Wildlife is present in less density, but walking safaris, riding safaris and fly camping are all possible (e.g. Laikipia, Selous).

We are huge enthusiasts for the more active and adventurous wilderness safaris, however there is no doubting the thrill of a big cat sighting and the importance of big sightings particularly on a first safari. The absolute best option if budget allows is to combine both types of safari in one trip. This is possible in Kenya (Masai Mara & Laikipia), Botswana (Delta & Kalahari) & South Africa (Waterberg + Kruger).

Where is safe to go on Safari?

There are worries inherent in travelling anywhere these days, from crime to terrorism and tropical diseases, however some African destinations definitely feel safer than others. We only travel to countries that are approved for travel by the UK Foreign Office (i.e. there are no advisories against travel), however if you have particular concerns, then countries such as Botswana and Namibia are seen as amongst the safest in Africa and feel very isolated from world events.

If you don't want to have to take anti malarials, then your choice of safari destination is limited to South Africa, where there is a choice of the Eastern Cape (Shamware, Amakhala, Pumba), Madikwe, KwaZulu Natal (Phinda, Thanda and Hluhluwe) and Kalahari (Tswalu)

Family Friendly Safari Camps in Botswana

Thu, 11 Aug 2016 09:58:00 +0100

Family Friendly Safari Camps in Botswana

Long the jewel in Africa's safari crown, renowned for its vast wilderness and exclusive safari experience, Botswana was never really seen as a particularly family friendly destination. This is probably in part due to the high costs, but also because there is a lot of wildlife about and most camps are open to the bush.

In recent times though, many of the best camps have opened up for families, reducing minimum ages, introducing family tents and specialist guides. We've picked out our favourite recommendations here, these aren't necessarily those with formal family programs, but those camps we feel work best for families. Of course family friendliness is all relative. Camps are unfenced and open to the wild. Children will need to be accompanied at all times and easily controllable.

This is by no means an exhaustive list and we would be happy to discuss the pros and cons of the different options with you.

First and foremost, we look for camps with excellent guiding teams who are used to looking after families, in our experience this makes all the difference. The ability of guides to spark a love of the bush in the kids and manage the pace appropriately is crucial.
Family rooms are very important, allowing parents to sleep together in privacy but with the comfort of knowing children are within reach under the same canvas. The prospect of parents splitting across separate tents to accompany kids is fine for a night or two, but probably not what you have in mind for the whole holiday.
Swimming pools can be a welcome relief between game drives. Although not critical, we will always try to make sure at least one of the camps in a family itinerary has a pool (note: swimming pools tend to be small, unfenced and unguarded).
Dedicated family programs are all well and good, but can be gimmicky, so shouldn't be seen as a must have.

Family Friendly Safari Camps in the Okavango Delta

Family Friendly Safari Camps in Chobe Waterfront

Family Friendly Safari Camps in Linyanti Waterfront

Family Friendly Safari Camps in the Kalahari & Makgadikgadi Pans

Family Friendly Safari Camps in the Okavango Delta

The Okavango Delta has not traditionally been a very family friendly place. Camps generally have been pitched at a high end adult audience and activities such as bush walks and mokoro (canoe) trips have been limited to over 16s. There are some real exceptions here though. Young Explorers is one of Africa's finest family safari experiences and there are a fast growing array of camps with a strong family friendly approach.

Young Explorers

Okavango Delta

Family Rating

5/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Ages:

The recommended minimum age for the Young Explorers programme is 7 years

Family Rooms:

No Family Tents. The Camp consists of one triple and two twin/double tents. Parents with 2 or more younger children may feel more comfortable splitting the adults across tents.

Comments:

Ker & Downey's Young Explorers package is the real deal. With superb guides who are well used to working with families and a real adventurous ethos, this is one of the best family safari experiences in Africa. It is a shame there aren't larger family tents on offer, but don't forget the camp is yours in exclusivity and you are here for the adventure, not the luxury experience.

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Camp Okavango

Okavango Delta

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

Minimum age 6 years old. Families with children aged 6-12 must book a private guide and vehicle at extra cost.

Family Rooms:

One two bedroom Family Suite consisting of 1 double bedroom and 1 twin bedroom both with en-suite bathrooms and connecting through inter-leading doors. Can accommodate 2 adults & 4 kids with an additional roll away bed.

Comments:

The Desert&Delta portfolio has been ramping up its family offering recently and with its pool, well thought out family program and lovely 2 bedroom family suite, Camp Okavango is an excellent family option. The only drawback is that you have to pay for a private guide and vehicle, but rates are competitive and most families will be grateful for the flexibility having a private vehilce gives.

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Okuti Camp

Okavango Delta

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

Minimum age 7 years old. Private guide and vehicle optional

Family Rooms:

Two family “Masasas” (each sleeping four people in two bedrooms with shared en-suite bathroom)

Comments:

There is no specific family program at Okuti, but with its large family tents and Ker & Downey's strong guiding team who are usually excellent with children, this is a very strong family friendly safari option in the Delta.

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Shinde Camp

Okavango Delta

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

The minimum age is 7 years when taking Shinda Enclave in exclusivity or minimum age 10 years old in Shinde main camp. Private guide and vehicle optional.

Family Rooms:

No Family Tents. The Camp consists of one triple and two twin/double tents. Parents with 2 or more younger children may feel more comfortable splitting the adults across tents.

Comments:

There is no specific family program at Shinde. However, the three tents that make up Shinde Enclave are available as an upgrade option for the Ker & Downey's excellent Young Explorers program. Another superb family safari offering from Ker & Downey.

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Chief's Camp

Okavango Delta

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

Minimum age 6 years old. Children aged 15 and younger are required to share with their parents.

Family Rooms:

There is no family room at Chief's Camp, although a rollaway bed can be added to create a triple room (max one triple room). Families with two or more children under 15 would need to take two rooms splitting the adults across rooms.

Comments:

Chief's Camp is a superb quality larger lodge and a great choice for families. Larger lodges can often work well for families, with larger pools, more space and greater independence at meal times. Chief's Camp offers an excellent dedicated family program for 6+ and 11+ children. It is just a shame there are no family tents.

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Sandibe Safari Lodge

Okavango Delta

Family rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

Sandibe has no minimum age. Children aged 6-12 are permitted on game drives at the lodge manager’s discretion. Nature walks are limited to those over the age of 16. Childminders can be arranged for under 6s during activities and at meal times at additional cost.

Family Rooms:

Sandibe has one lovely family unit made up of two interconnecting suites, or one additional bed can be set up in a standard room for children 16 years or younger.

Notes:

&Beyond is making real efforts to be more family friendly with its wild child program and new family units. Sandibe will appeal to families looking for a higher end contemporary lodge.

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Nxabega Camp

Okavango Delta

Family rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

Sandibe has no minimum age. Children aged 6-12 are permitted on game drives at the lodge manager’s discretion. Nature walks and mokoro (canoe) trips are limited to over 16s. Childminders can be arranged for under 6s during activities and at meal times at additional cost.

Family Rooms:

Nxabega Camp has one family unit consisting of two interleading luxury tents make up a family tent, or one additional bed can be set up in a standard room for children 16 years or younger.

Comments:

Nxabega benefits from &Beyond's new wild child program and family units. Nxabega is a more traditional safari lodge than Sandibe and unlike Sandibe, offers water based activities (over 16s only).

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Family Friendly Safari Camps in Chobe

Chobe is a good choice for families in Botswana due to its close proximity to Victoria Falls and excellent wildlife. Accommodation costs are lower here than in the exclusive reserves of the Delta and it costs less to get here as you don't need to take a small aircraft flight. The main drawback of the area is that as a National Park it can get very busy with other tourists as well as the huge herds of elephant, buffalo and large prides of lion. Chobe has some excellent family friendly properties; Sanctuary Chobe Chilwere is one of the only fenced properties in Botswana and has an excellent family program, whilst Chobe Game lodge, Elephant Camp and Muchenje are more down to earth options for families.

Sanctuary Chobe Chilwero

Chobe Waterfront

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

Chobe Chilwero welcomes all ages, Children between the ages of 5 and 11 are permitted to participate on the game drives at the discretion of the lodge manager. Children under 5 require the permission of the lodge manager and is subject to the booking of a private guide and vehicle at extra cost.

Family Rooms:

Surprisingly, Chobe Chilwero does not offer family rooms. Rooms can only take a maximum one extra bed and under 15s must share with parents meaning families with two or more children under 15 will need to split across rooms with one parent in each room.

Comments:

Chobe Chilwero is a great option for families who want a relaxed safari experience. The lodge is fenced, there is a nice pool area and a whole host of children’s programs and activities (adapted game drives and walks, treasure hunts, croquet,...). Given it is such a good family option it is a shame that there are no family rooms.

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Chobe Game Lodge

Chobe Waterfront

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

Chobe Game Lodge has a minimum age of 6. Families with children aged 6-12 must book a private guide and vehicle at extra cost.

Family Rooms:

Chobe Game Lodge has a variety of family friendly room options including 14 Safari family rooms (double and bunk beds), 2 River family rooms (double and twin beds) and 1 family Rondavel (2 bedrooms).

Comments:

Well located in the National Park and with excellent family room options and a nice pool, Chobe Game Lodge is a good option for families. Although there is no dedicated family program, with a private guide and vehicle for every family, you can expect a dedicated experience tailored to the needs of your family.

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Muchenje Safari Lodge

Chobe Waterfront

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

Chobe Game Lodge has a minimum age of 8.

Family Rooms:

Muchenje Safari Lodge has a family suite with a large double in the open main area and 2 single beds on a mezzanine for children. Please note, the stairs upto the mezzanine are a steep ladder and although there is plenty of space there is not privacy between the parents and children's sleeping area.

Comments:

Muchenje is a lovely down to earth option for families. There may not be a specific family program, but staff are great and tailor the experience to all guests, and there is a pool and family suite.

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Chobe Elephant Camp

Chobe Waterfront

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

Chobe Elephant Camp has a minimum age of 2.

Family Rooms:

Chobe Elephant Camp has a 2 bedroom family chalet, both bedrooms with en-suite and situated either side of a lounge area.

Comments:

Chobe Elephant Camp is rustic and friendly and in a great location. With its family unit and small pool it will suit more adventurous families on a more limited budget. There is no specific family program but the Camp welcomes children and looks after them well.

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Family Friendly Safari Camps in the Linyanti

The exclusive Linyanti Marshes area is one of Africa's most prestigious and expensive safari areas featuring some of the finest Camps around. Several of the better Camps have two bedroom family tents and with such an exclusive tailored experience children's needs are easily accommodated. Like the Delta, this is a very wild area and camps are unfenced, so it is critical that children are accompanied by parents at all times and aren't likely to run off. King's Camp is one of the best Camps in the area and has a lovely 2 bedroom tent, however it is only usually for children over 12. Linyanti Ebony, Selinda Camp, Kwando Lagoon and Kwando Lebala all accommodate children 6 plus and have 2 bedroom family tents.

Kwando Lagoon Camp

Linyanti

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Small Plunge Pool

Ages:

Kwando Lagoon Camp has a minimum age of 6.

Family Rooms:

Kwando Lagoon Camp has a two bedroom family tent.

Comments:

Kwando Lagoon is a good option in the Linyanti for families with its beautiful waterfront location, tailored specialist family safari programs and its 2 bedroom family tent. Kwando Lagoon offers a specialist family safari experience with specialist dedicated guide and vehicle for the family, an individually tailored programme and flexible meal times. The experience is an additional cost but strongly recommended.The pool is only a small plunge pool, but that is typical for this region.

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Kwando Lagoon Camp

Linyanti

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Small Plunge Pool

Ages:

Kwando Lagoon Camp has a minimum age of 6.

Family Rooms:

Kwando Lagoon Camp has a two bedroom family tent with rooms either side and inter-connected via the bathroom.

Comments:

Like Kwando Lagoon, Kwando Lebala is a good option in the Linyanti for families. Both Kwando lebala and Lagoon both offer a specialist family safari experience with specialist dedicated guide and vehicle for the family, an individually tailored programme and flexible meal times. The experience is an additional cost but strongly recommended. Again the pool is only a small plunge pool.

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Selinda Camp

Linyanti

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

Selinda Camp has a minimum age of 6, but families with children aged under 15 will need to book a private vehicle and guide at extra cost.

Family Rooms:

Selinda Camp has a two bedroom family tent.

Comments:

Selinda Camp is a real favourite and with its two bedroom family tent and a dedicated guide and vehicle can make for an excellent family safari. There is no specific family program organised, but the experience will be tailored to the needs of your family.

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Family Friendly Safari Camps in the Kalahari

The Makgadikgadi Pans in the Kalahari offer a fascinating counterpoint to a more traditional wildlife based safari that we find works very well for families who can afford it. The Pans cover an area of 10,000m2 with salt pans interspersed with grass lands and islands of trees. Activities range from bush walks with the local San people to ranging over the Pans on quad bikes and interacting with the habituated meerkats (Jack's Camp only). Most families will be visiting in the July / August dry season so would miss the zebra migration. Camp Kalahari is usually our first choice for families in the Kalahari, but all of the fabulous Unchartered Africa properties (Jack's, San and Camp Kalahari) work well.

Camp Kalahari

Kalahari

Family Rating

5/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Small Pool

Ages:

Camp Kalahari has no minimum age. Families with under 8s must take a private guide & vehicle at extra cost. Children are able to do all the activities, but must be over 12 to drive quad bikes (and then at the manager's discretion). Under 12s share a quad bike with an adult driver.

Family Rooms:

Camp Kalahari has a two bedroom family tent.

Comments:

We find Camp Kalahari works very well for families and combines well with a more wildlife centric exprience elsewhere in Botswana. The experience is tailored to each family, there is a family tent and the lower rates and more low key atmosphere is arguably more family friendly than Unchartered Africa's other camps.

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Jack's Camp

Kalahari

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

Like Camp Kalahari, Jack's Camp also has no minimum age. Families with under 8s must take a private guide & vehicle at extra cost. Children are able to do all the activities, but must be over 12 to drive quad bikes (and then at the manager's discretion). Under 12s share a quad bike with an adult driver.

Family Rooms:

Jack's Camp does not have a family tent. Standard tents can take a family of three, whilst a family of four must split with one parent in each tent.

Comments:

Jack's Camp is a good family offering, with a more sophisticated atmosphere than its sister camp, Camp Kalahari. We would usually recommend Camp Kalahari first and foremost for families, defaulting to Jack's or San Camp if availability demands.

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San Camp

Kalahari

Family Rating

4/5

Price guide

Swimming Pool:

Yes

Ages:

Like Camp Kalahari, San Camp also has no minimum age. Families with under 8s must take a private guide & vehicle at extra cost. Children are able to do all the activities, but must be over 12 to drive quad bikes (and then at the manager's discretion). Under 12s share a quad bike with an adult driver.

Family Rooms:

San Camp does not have a family tent. Standard tents can take a family of three, whilst a family of four must split with one parent in each tent.

Comments:

San Camp is a good family offering, with a more sophisticated atmosphere than its sister camp, Camp Kalahari. We would usually recommend Camp Kalahari first and foremost for families, defaulting to Jack's or San Camp if availability demands.

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Online Itineraries and Trip Management

Fri, 05 Aug 2016 18:34:00 +0100

Great news. Our gorgeous online itineraries are now available to all our clients. No more boring pdf documents, our tailor-made itineraries are now live and available on any device, and we think they look great, see for yourself.

Digital Itineraries

Trip Management

After booking, your trip management page allows you to pay your balance online, review insurance detail and of course countdown to your holiday

Family Holidays at Christmas

Thu, 07 Jan 2016 15:05:00 +0000

Christmas and New Year is peak season in Southern and Eastern Africa. South Africa is in the peak of summer and very busy with domestic tourism. Kenya and Tanzania are not quite as busy but peak pricing does kick in. It really is a fantastic time of year to head to this part of the world, but do book early. One country that seems to buck the trend of hyper inflated prices over Christmas and New Year is Morocco, flight prices tend to be lower than usual for school holiday periods, there is usually reasonable availability outside of the best Marrakech riads and there is plenty of winter sunshine to warm even the coldest heart.

Morocco

Temperatures in Morocco over Christmas and New Year tend to hover around 20 Celsius in Marrakech, the Sahara Desert and on the Coast and 5-10 degrees cooler in the Atlas Mountains, depending on altitude. Night time temperatures tend to cool down quickly so you will need to pack a jumper. It isn’t quite sun bathing temperature, but you would swim in a heated pool. A lovely combination for families is to take a whole riad rental for 3-4 days over Christmas, giving you the run of the place for a family house party with staff! Riad Tzarra works really well to this end. From Marrakech you can then either combine with a trip out to the Desert or to the Atlas Mountains.

South Africa

South Africa, and the Cape in particular is in full summer holiday swing over Christmas and New Year. South Africans decamp en-masse to the Coast with a determined party mood. Away from the Coast, things tend to be a little saner and there is no doubt this is a wonderful time to be in South Africa, with fantastic weather, dramatic scenery and incredible wildlife.

Safari

What better way to spend Christmas than to be thoroughly spoiled in a stunning wilderness location on safari. It certainly beats another Christmas of TV, wet weather and over indulgence. We’d recommend safari in a homely owner run camp such as Laikipia Wilderness, Ekorian or El Karama followed by some much needed beach time on Zanzibar or the Kenyan Coast.

Family Holidays in October Half Term

Thu, 07 Jan 2016 13:45:00 +0000

If you are looking for some sunshine in October and November, then you do need to look beyond the Med, which is more often than not subject to stormy, windy and wet spells. Instead, Morocco is the perfect answer and incredibly popular over October Half Term, you will get plenty of sunshine, warm (but not too hot) temperatures, and the opportunity to explore buzzing Marrakech, the tranquil Atlas Mountains and the magnificent Sahara Desert. Further afield, October and November are a great time to visit Southern and Eastern Africa, particularly if you can squeeze in more than a week’s holiday.

Morocco

Come the end of October, the high temperatures of the summer months have subsided to something altogether more civilised with temperatures usually in the high 20s Celsius in Marrakech and the Sahara and low 20s Celsius in the Atlas Mountains. The mountains turn a beautiful orange and gold as the villagers rush to collect their walnut harvest. A relaxing two centre week combining an atmospheric small riad in Marrakech’s old Medina with a beautiful Mountain hotel with stunning views, fresh air and traditional Berber hospitality is the perfect antidote to the onset of winter at home.

South Africa

October brings the onset of spring in the Southern Hemisphere. In South Africa and the Cape, temperatures are perfect for exploring and the dramatic landscapes are bursting with fresh colour, the whale watching season is usually still in full swing and it is a great time to be on safari in the Eastern Cape, Kruger or KwaZulu-Natal.

Kenya & Tanzania

Late October brings the end of the busy summer season, the migration herd has moved on from the Mara back into Tanzania, taking with it the hordes of tourists and peak prices. November is synonymous with the short rains season in Eastern Africa, but as the name suggests, this usually means only a short rainfall each day, with plenty of sunshine to go around.

Family Holidays in May Half Term

Wed, 06 Jan 2016 16:00:00 +0000

With the weather warming up, only a week’s holiday available and exam season kicking into full season, May Half Term can be a hard one to get right. This is, though, a fantastic time to be in the Mediterranean, it is quiet and the weather is barmy. For something further afield, Kenya and Tanzania can offer some superb value green season safari options at the tail end of the long rains.

Croatia

The Adriatic is warming up nicely, the hordes haven’t arrived and temperatures are effortlessly civilised. This is one of our favourite times to be in Dubrovnik. A week’s break at the gorgeous Hotel Bozica or superbly equipped Sun Gardens is the perfect way to start the summer. Our family kayaking week is a fantastic option for more active families.

Turkey

For similar reasons to Croatia, May is a fantastic time to visit Turkey. It isn’t quite as hot as it gets in the summer and there are less crowds. Cappadocia is a beautiful region of Turkey famous for its incredible landscapes and heritage with some fantastic walking and ancient cave monasteries to explore. Cappadocia combines perfectly with a couple of nights in Istanbul.

Morocco

From May to September, temperatures in Morocco tend to be around 30 Celsius inland and closer to 20-25 Celsius in the Mountains and on the Atlantic Coast. May tends to be a lot quieter than Easter, so is a nice time to experience the Atlas Mountains and to hit the beaches. For luxury lovers, Kasbah Tamadot is hard to beat, with a stunning Mountain location, swimming pools and tennis courts, whilst at the other end of the spectrum, the new Ouirgane EcoLodge is a fantastic find, with gorgeous views, a lovely pool area and a genuinely local feel. On the Coast, you’ll need to get in early for Rebali Riads, a lovely small collection of villas near the wild beach at Sidi Kaouki, whilst Paradis Plage is a great option for a more traditional beach resort.

Kenya and Tanzania

May Half Term usually coincides with tail end of the long rains in Kenya and Tanzania, and on the face of it, this isn’t a place we would usually recommend you visit at this time of the year. However, if you are on the lookout for a deal, we have managed to source some incredible value safaris for families in Kenya and Tanzania during the May Half Term, and the rains, although daily, tend to be short and clear up for some sunshine each day.

Easter Family Holidays

Wed, 06 Jan 2016 14:47:00 +0000

Easter Holidays are a great time of year to get away and with two weeks to play with, the sky is the limit. What’s more there are public holidays a plenty to save on precious days off work. Our favourite picks for Easter include South Africa, Yosemite, Morocco, Peru and Namibia.

South Africa in the Easter Holidays

Easter is one of our favourite times to visit South Africa. You catch the lovely early Autumn season in the Cape, and can take plenty of time to explore this magnificent country. The Kruger and KwazuluNatal are also good at this time of year with temperatures more manageable than over their summer. If you are thinking of doing Cape Town and the Garden Route, then this is the time.

California & Yosemite in the Easter Holidays

Yosemite is simply out of this world, but during summer it is fair to say the Park can be a little over-run. Easter is a great time to visit, with those magnificent waterfalls thundering away with meltwater and the pick of the accommodation in the Valley usually still available. The Pacific Coast Highway comes into its element with plenty of sunshine and temperatures in the high teens and early 20s Celsius, perfect weather for exploring. International flights are usually cheaper than the summer too.

Morocco in the Easter Holidays

Easter is peak season in Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains. Balmy sunny weather is the norm, the Mountains are green and snow-capped and temperatures are warm enough to laze by the pool. Book early as flight prices for the Easter Holidays often double if you leave it too late.

Namibia in the Easter Holidays

With the hot season over, Easter is a great time to be in Namibia with less chance of rain and more benign temperatures. Two weeks is really a necessity for Namibia making this a perfect window to visit this magnificent country.

Peru in the Easter Holidays

Another country demanding a two week trip, Peru is really only an option for families in the Summer and Easter holidays. The big advantage of Easter is that flights tend to be cheaper than August.

Family Holidays in February Half Term

Tue, 05 Jan 2016 18:12:00 +0000

With Christmas past, it can be a fair old slog through January and February, so getting away somewhere warm and sunny for February Half Term is a very pleasant way to go about things. Most of us have only a week's holiday to play with, but with inset days and weekends, you can squeeze a 9 or 10 day holiday into February Half Term.

Morocco in February Half Term

One of our favourite spots in February is Morocco (budget £500 - £1000 per family member including flights for one week) - a fantastic choice for families. Flight prices are very reasonable (usually in the £150 - £250 per person mark) and the weather is usually sunny and warm with temperatures around 20 Celsius in Marrakech and the Sahara and 15-18 Celsius in the Mountains (albeit with chilly nights). For relaxed winter sun Paradis Plage, Rebali Riads, Les Deux Tours and The Fellah Hotel all work wonderfully for families. One of our favourite holidays at this time of year is a fantastic but simple week combining a lovely atmospheric riad in Marrakech (think breakfast on the roof terrace with distant views of snow-capped mountains) with a mule supported trek in the Atlas Mountains amidst snow-capped peaks and traditional mud built Berber Villages (Family Atlas Mountain Trek & Marrakech Holiday). And of course the Sahara comes into its own with manageable temperatures, historic crumbling Kasbahs, camel rides into the sunset and camping under the stars (Luxury Family Desert Holiday).

South Africa for February Half Term

Whilst South Africa (budget £1500 - £3000 per family member including flights for one to two weeks) easily demands 2 or more weeks of your time, Cape Town is an easy overnight flight from London if you are just looking to splurge on a wonderful February Half Term week. In addition to the cosmopolitan City there are gorgeous winelands and beaches nearby and some superb family friendly accommodation such as Hog Hollow and Grootbos .

Safari & Beach for February Half Term

February is peak season for safari in Kenya and Tanzania with fantastic weather and excellent wildlife (budget £1700-£3000 per family member including flights for one week). A week is more than ample for a first time or repeat safari. In Kenya, our Maasai Family Adventure fits perfectly into one week or you can combine 3 nights safari at the wonderful Laikipia Wilderness Camp with some beach & pool time on the Indian Ocean (Laikipia Wilderness Safari and Beach Holiday). On the Tanzanian Coast, spend a week at Sanctuary Saadani Safari Lodge which offers safari and snorkelling from an idyllic beach location.

KwaZulu Natal Beach Lodges & Hotels

Mon, 29 Jun 2015 14:49:00 +0100

KwaZuluNatal is rare in South Africa for offering high quality safari with a tropical coastline nearby so is perfect for safari and beach holidays with minimal transfers between. The Coast stretches North from Durban towards the Mozambique border and gets wilder the further North you head. Along the whole Coast there is strong surf, sheltered beaches are few and far between, only the resort towns such as Ballito and Umhlanga have life guards on duty in designated areas.

Heading North out of Durban, The Canelands beach hotel in Ballito is an excellent small boutique guesthouse where you can relax around the pool, enjoy tidal pools and surf on the beach, and explore the local shops and restaurants. If you are feeling active there is a good surf school nearby and in season it is possible to organise seafari boat tours out into the bay to see Humpback Whales. Ballito is also a good base for a day tip into Durban where you can explore the bustling Indian Market or head to the uShaka Marine World Ocean theme park, which boasts the highest water slide in the Southern hemisphere. This property has an excellent location and for children they will add a good quality inflatable mattresses with proper bedding in the evenings for the children. For older children, it may be worth taking two rooms which are in close proximity but they do not have inter-connecting rooms.

Still in Ballito is the prestigious golfing complex of Fairmont Zimbali which has an 18-hole golf course, separate upmarket homes and two properties on site. Zimbali Lodge is set back and has 76 rooms, one swimming pool and 3 dining options but you will have full access to the resort facilities. Zimbali Resort has 154 rooms, 2 swimming pools, access to the non-swimming beach and weekend children’s club. The Ballito beaches are a few minutes away, there is tennis and squash on site and full concierge facilities. This is a good choice for those who want more of a resort set up.

Umhlanga Rocks is another favoured South African holiday town which is closer to Durban and has a great beach. The Oyster Box is a five star hotel with 86 rooms with some lovely touches.The hotel offers beach service, a holiday children’s club, cinema and fitness centre. For children they offer a welcome backpack, child-friendly turn-downs, essential popcorn, sweets, soft drinks and the DVD library for in-room viewing, child-friendly menus and a baby-sitting service.

Heading further North, The Elephant Coast and Kosi Bay area has some superb beach and forest lodges, with the more remote location, options here tend towards the eco lodge principals rather than big resorts with lots of facilities. At the top end of the scale, Thonga Beach Lodge is one of favourite beach recommendations in South Africa, Rocktail Bay offers a great range of guided activities, whilst Amangwane is a fabulous rustic option with simple accommodation, community involvement, kayaking and excellent snorkelling.

Family Holidays in August

Wed, 13 May 2015 16:10:00 +0100

July and August brings the school summer holidays, peak prices and crowds, but there are ways to beat the system. Flight prices tend to be cheaper for the last two weeks of August and it always pays to book early, with cheaper air fares and better availability if you book as early as December, January or February.

One of the greatest challenges facing families is the search for a holiday that makes mum and dad happy as well as the children. In any given family, somebody will want to be out surfing, another exploring cultural sites and the kids would be happy hanging by the pool all day, and of course you’ll want something that you can all do happily together.

In Croatia, the Dubrovnik Sun Gardens Hotel offers superb sporting facilities, pools and activities for the kids, a 10 minute boat transfer into beautiful Dubrovnik old town and the opportunity to explore the nearby Elaphiti Islands by Sea Kayak and snorkel. In Morocco, Rebali Riads offers the privacy of a villa, with on-site spa, a wild Atlantic beach, surfing lessons for the more active members of the family and one of Morocco’s most beautiful, charismatic and relaxed Cities, Essaouira, just 20 minutes’ drive away. Also in Morocco, Paradis Plage offers a more traditional beach resort but with a modern twist, with a superb surf school and yoga studio on site, beach cinema and atmospheric fire-pit.

Summer is the perfect time tackle a family adventure, with two or three weeks away, you can easily fit in two or three different sections, with time for adventure, relaxing and exploring.

Get a ring side seat for the Great Wildebeest Migration in the Masai Mara

Discover your inner bushman on an Out Of Africa adventure

Walk the Inca Trail and explore the Amazon Jungle

Paddle the crystal clear waters of the sparkling Adriatic Sea

Raft the Colorado River, clamber through slot canyons and witness some epic landscapes on a Grand American Adventure

More Ideas for 2 Week Summer Holidays

More Ideas for 1 Week Summer Holidays

Beach extensions for your safari

Thu, 05 Mar 2015 11:01:00 +0000

Safari Holidays are, without doubt, a once in a life time experience. However (now don’t laugh at us please) they can also be quite hard work at times. Routine at the camps is fairly structured and rigid; rise at dawn (first call at 0400am), 4 hour game drive, followed by breakfast, relaxation time and then another 4 hour game drive late afternoon. Dinner is usually served at around 7.30pm. After a few days on safari your children (and you) will be ready for a change of pace and it can be very welcoming to kick back and relax. The question is, where to go and what to combine your safari with. Many people’s first choice is to request a beach resort where they can enjoy golden sand, snorkelling and a gentle pace of life. Here are our suggestions for the optimum beach extension for your holiday.

Zanzibar

The exotic tropical island of Zanzibar lies in the Indian Ocean and enjoys miles of palm-fringed golden sandy beaches and beautiful clear waters. With a range of accommodation from simple beach lodges to private beach villas to five star resorts, this is the perfect place to relax, sun-bathe and snorkel. Diving is also excellent here, with some excellent coral formations. Other activities on offer include ocean excursions, spice farm tours, the Jozani Forest with a variety of primates and exploring the narrow cobbled streets of Stone Town, the capital, which is a UNESCO world heritage site.

Getting there & away

- From Northern, Southern and Western Tanzania there are regular well timed scheduled light aircraft flights.
- Kenya Airways has a number of daily scheduled flights from Nairobi.
- From South Africa, there is a low cost airline which flies from from Johannesburg to Zanzibar direct a couple of times a week.

Our Favourite Zanzibar guest houses & lodges

Kenya and Tanzania Coast

The South Kenyan coast does have more development on it in the Mombasa area, but there are some hidden out of the way smaller gems, up in Lamu, for example. Access is frequent with scheduled light aircraft flights and airlines from all safari options, some via Nairobi.

The Tanzania coast is less developed with some great barefoot options; this is perfect for a couple of night’s pure relaxation with a few activities on offer. Access is frequent with scheduled light aircraft flights from all safari options, some via Dar es Salaam.

Our Favourite Kenya & Tanzania Coastal guest houses & lodges

Mozambique

Mozambique has really only started to come back onto the map in the last 15 years with development starting in the south and growing from there. These lodges have a very similar operation to safari in some respects. It is generally simple to barefoot luxury lodges, with well-spaced individual ‘rooms’ onto the beach. One dining area with sometimes gathering in the evenings for cocktails and social meals. Diving is excellent and unspoilt. The focus is water sports and depending on the location some nearby historical visits particularly in the north or simple fishing villages. Generally these are quiet and relaxing resorts. There are two mid-size resorts which have more hotel style accommodations, one in the north and the other in the south.

Getting there & away

Southern Mozambique has an excellent service from Johannesburg to Maputo, Vilanculos and Imhambane. In addition to this there is a flight from the Kruger to Vilanculos a couple of times a week. The capital Maputo is only a 3 hour drive from Kruger which is another gateway to a variety of beach destinations.

For Northern Mozambique, from Johannesburg there are regular flights to Pemba and Nampula. There are however excellent scheduled light aircraft connection from Tanzania and Kenya, enabling you to combine an East Africa safari with this.

Our Favourite Mozambique Coastal guest houses & lodges

Mauritius

Mauritius has a good selection of beach hotels but generally with a variety of pools and sun lounging spots on the properties. There are often good children’s clubs, tennis courts, spa facilities and wide variety of water sports. Usually a choice of dinning locations, beach and room service and evening entertainment. Focus here is really being in resort and just sitting back and relaxing, you can do a day trip into town and visit a nature reserve or take a day cruise.

Getting there & away

From Kenya, there are 3 flights a week with good timings but you would need the night before in Nairobi which is no great hardship as there are many great things to do such as the Giraffe Sanctuary and Elephant Orphanage which gives great interaction.

From Johannesburg, there are 3 flights a weeks, again with good timings. There are very good value hotels in the airport complex, so you can make the most of the final day of your safari without having to rush to catch a flight.

Our Favourite Mauritius Coastal guest houses & lodges

Seychelles

Seychelles has a wonderful collection of granite and volcanic islands, great for staying at just one place but lends itself particularly well to island hopping. Accommodation ranges from simple Seychellois guest houses, medium-size hotels to five star resorts.

Getting there & away

Sadly there are only flights from Johannesburg a couple of times a week which would work well with Southern African safaris.

There are many of the Middle Eastern airlines who are now flying in, and in some respects with the island hopping this would be a lovely two week holiday on its own.

Our Favourite Seychelles Coastal guest houses & lodges

KwaZulu Natal

KwaZulu Natal, on South Africa's Indian Ocean coastline has some wild stretches of beaches. We have a couple of lodges on the beach, offering a mixture of relaxation and safari-style activities. We can also arrange guest houses in close proximity to the beach and large resort hotels. The one thing to bear in mind with all South African beaches is that they are for the most part relatively strong currents but beautiful stretches of coast line.

Getting there & away

This area is best reached by self-drive exploration of the surrounding area. The scheduled flights come in from Durban or Richards Bay from Johannesburg, plus connections into Durban from Cape Town, Port Elizabeth and even the Kruger.

Our Favourite KwaZulu-Natal guest houses & lodges

Cape Town

Cape Town is not a ‘traditional’ beach consideration as accommodation on the beach is non-existent but due to the weather and variety of activities and lovely restaurants this can provide a lovely down time ending to a trip. Camps Bay has a lovely beach with trendy restaurants nearby but it is Atlantic Ocean. The Southern suburbs of Cape Town from Noordhoek to Muizenburg is Indian Ocean, St James beach even has a tidal pool, these beaches are more popular with locals and dining options although good, not as 'trendy' as Camps Bay for example. Guest houses, small boutique hotels and variety of larger hotels available. The one thing to bear in mind with all South African beaches is that they are for the most part relatively strong currents but beautiful stretches of coast line.

Getting there & away

With regular Johannesburg flights this is easily accessed from Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia. Same for the rest of South Africa such as Port Elizabeth, Durban and Kruger.

Our Favourite Cape Town guest houses & lodges

Garden Route

The Garden Route has lovely beaches all the way from Wilderness to Port Elizabeth, which is effectively the length of the route. Tends to be long stretches of coast line of Indian Ocean. No properties with direct access to the beach but lovely guest houses and hotels al along mostly with pools. The one thing to bear in mind with all South African beaches is that they are for the most part relatively strong currents but beautiful stretches of coast line.

Getting there & away

Access from Cape Town, George and Port Elizabeth with an excellent domestic flight routing around South Africa.

Our Favourite Garden Route guest houses & lodges near the coast

Victoria Falls

Ok this is not the beach but after an intensive South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia safari it is perfect stop to relax but still have lots to do. Brilliant safari style lodges generally on the Zambezi River with swimming pool and central dinning or a couple of hotel style resort.

Getting there & away

Road and light aircraft flights off safari. Scheduled flights from Johannesburg, Namibia, Kenya and more coming in with the planned airport improvements.

Our Favourite Victoria Falls guest houses & lodges

Our Trademark Cape Town Experiences

Wed, 28 Jan 2015 11:23:00 +0000

It can be a bit over-whelming knowing where to start when visiting a city like Cape Town - there is just so much to see. We pride ourselves on having a truly unique offering in Cape Town, which we couple with lovingly hand-picked accommodation. There are so many different ways of getting under the skin of Cape Town and we have taken great pride in selecting some of the best experiences with the best guides. There is no real substitute for spending a day with a local guide. Not only are you helping to support the local economy, but you are also getting a chance to speak to someone who has grown up in South Africa during a most turbulent time who will be able to add some genuine insights into the country, which will help to set the scene once you head off on the rest of your holiday. With the lack of jet lag and the prospect of a good night's sleep on the plane on the way over, there is no reason why you can't get out and about on your first afternoon, discovering the best of what Cape Town has to offer. Please have a browse through some of our favourite experiences and let us know which ones you would like us to include in your itinerary.

Guided Cycling Tour (Suitable for adults & children)

A short guided cycle tour is a lovely way to see the waterfront and stretch your legs after a long flight, recommended for a first afternoon in Cape Town. The pace is gentle and is a lovely introduction to what the waterfront area has to offer. Cycling is mainly on the flat and is suitable for all ages.(Children's seats & bikes available for all ages and abilities)

Robben Island Visit (Suitable for adults & children)

Robben Island, the prison where Nelson Mandela was held, is on many wishlists for visitors to Cape Town. However, we offer our own twist on this as our guide is Lionel Davies, who was himself in Robben Island at the same time as Mandela. Lionel will take you around the island and will give you a deep insight into what it was like being imprisoned there and will also share stories of the part he played in the anti-apartheid movement.

Guided Table Mountain Hike - (Suitable for adults & children)

There is no better place to get a sense of Cape Town than from the top of Table mountain amidst the lush fynbos, indigenous to the region. Most tourists venture no more than 5 minutes from the Cableway, however we recommend getting away from the crowds. There are several options to choose between, depending on how active you want to be. For those wanting a gentle guided walk, there is a lovely 2 hour circular walk on the plateau to Maclears Beacon, the highest point on Table Mountain. The trail passes stunning viewpoints and marsh and fynbos bush. For the more adventurous, we recommend a more challenging trek climbing Table Mountain via Skeleton Gorge or from the Twelve Apostles (around 6 hours) and taking the Cableway down. And if you want something challenging and want to really get away from everyone, then we suggest our three day Table Mountain hike, camping along the way.

Private Wine Tours (Suitable for adults & children)

If you like wine and the finer things of life, then we suggest spending a day visiting vineyards and artisanal producers with our guide Pamela, a passionate foodie and local resident. You can get stuck into some fine wines and enjoy delicious great food in incredibly beautiful surroundings. Pamela knows the vineyards inside out and, for our family visitors, has picked out those with space for the kids to run around; from the jungle gym and famous hot chocolate at Warwick Estate to the gorgeous gardens and fruit orchards (where the children can help themselves to fruit) at Babylonstoren. Pam does all the driving, so you can just sit back and enjoy yourself.

Guided Township Tours (Suitable for adults & children)

It is all too easy to travel through the Cape region in comfortable lodges and not have any sense of how the majority of the country lives. On the basis that exposure breeds understanding and awareness, we think it is a good thing to learn about this magnificent country's turbulent past and present and fascinating culture. If this is done sensitively, it can hugely beneficial to both the township residents and also the visitor. We work with a couple of fantastic projects in the townships, a gentle bike tour through the township of Masiphumelele and a township cooking class, where you learn to cook local staples such as Pap, chakalaka, samp and African stew in an inspiring cooking school that is teaching the catering trade to locals in the townships.

Cape Town Foodie Experience (Suitable for adults only)

For those interested in food and cooking, we recommend spending a day with our resident Capetonian foodie, Pamela who will take you on a tour of her favourite eateries in town. South Africa is a melting pot of numerous cultures and her tour will give you an insight into all of these and will also explore you to their different cuisines. You will walk the streets of Cape Town together, stopping to taste a mixture of traditional food, South African street food and to visit some artisan foodie and coffee shops. If you prefer something more hands on, then we can arrange a cookery course for you with a local chef who will teach you all about Cape Malay food.

And for the more adventurous.......

Guided Kayaking trip to Boulders Beach (Suitable for adults & children aged 10+)

At Boulder's Beach on the Cape Peninsula, there is a colony of penguins that you can go and visit. However, rather than waiting on the beach to spot these creatures, we suggest taking to the seas and viewing them from the comfort of your own kayak. Heading away from the beach past the harbour, you will paddle to Boulder’s Beach. If you’re lucky, you may see the penguins swimming alongside you in the water, or hopping on to the beach. The double kayaks are very stable and perfect for those with no paddling experience. After viewing the penguins, you will stop on the beach for refreshments and a swim before heading back.

Mountain Biking tour (Suitable for adults only)

If you really want to let off some steam, then we suggest spending a day off the beaten track with one of our mountain biking guides. There is a variety of rides on offer, depending on your level of experience and how adventurous you are feeling. We guarantee excellent views, great climbs and beautiful surroundings. You can choose between an epic ride up the lower slopes of Table Mountain, leg busting climbs through Tokai forest and free-spirited off road riding in Silvermine Nature Reserve. These are private departures, so you can go at your own pace, but you do need to be experienced to take part.

The Best Safari Camps in Africa for Families

Wed, 17 Dec 2014 11:14:00 +0000

Many lodges and safari camps claim to be family friendly, but few actually are. We are all parents ourselves and take pride in visiting and selecting safari camps and lodges which are genuinely family friendly, but also offer something unique for parents as well. Read on to discover our favourites.

1) LAIKIPIA WILDERNESS CAMP, KENYA

Our favourite family friendly camp in Kenya, if not the whole of Africa, Laikipia offers an off the beaten track intimate wilderness safari experience. The camp is ideal for families, children can go on adventure walks, swim, raft and fish in the river and scramble and climb on nearby outcrops and, of course, game drives are also available. If your family is active and likes to get out and experience the wilderness, then this is the perfect place for you.

2) ANTS COLLECTION, SOUTH AFRICA

A fantastic malaria-free safari option, 2 1/2 hours norht of Jo'burg. No Big 5 here, but there are giraffe, buffalo, rhino and over 40 species of antelope. Accommodation is is boutique cottages with magnificient views, this is the ultimate place to come to unwind and reconnect with nature. The speiclaity here is horse riding and they have over 90 horses in their herd which are suitable for beginners right through to experienced riders. For non-riders, there are game drives, walking or simply relaxing and enjoying the views.

3) MARA BUSH HOUSES, KENYA

A collection of three beautiful bush houses within private reserves adjoining the Masai Mara. The sense of privacy, wilderness, variety of activities and the tailored daily itineraries mean these houses are perfect for families. Each house is self-contained and has its own dedicated guide who, as well as taking clients on game drives, will teach you ho to shoot a bow and arrow Maasai style and will give you some insight into the Maasai culture.

4) LAKE MANZE TENTED CAMP, SOUTHERN TANZANIA

A great value wilderness safari camp in the heart of the Selous Game Reserve in Southern Tanzania, this lake side camp offers tented, rustic accommodation with vehicle & boat safaris available. With few neighbouring camps, you are unlikely to see other safari vehicles, so this is a chance to be far away from the crowds. If you are looking for a wlid adventure for your family, then this is absolutely the camp for you.

5) GIBB'S FARM, NORTHERN TANZANIA

Located half way between the Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara, Gibb's Farm offers beautiful famliy friendly accommodation in a tranquil and rural setting. Set within some lovely gardens and with views of coffee plantations, this is a peaceful slice of rural Africa, the perfect accommodation to complement a safari itinerary.

6) THANDA, KWA-ZULU NATAL SOUTH AFRICA

If you want an exclusive, yet family friendly safari getaway, then look no further than Thanda. Offering luxurious family friendly accommodation, complete with private infinity plunge pool, outdoor shower and private sun deck and outstanding communal areas, Thanda does come with a high price tag, but is worth every penny. Fussy eaters and early dining times can be catered for and the guides and staff go out of their way to bring the safari to life for the younger audience.

7) SIMBAVATI RIVER LODGE, GREATER KRUGER SOUTH AFRICA

Lots of lodges in the Kruger area claim to be family friendly, but we love Simbavati because it genuinely is. The lodge offers fantastic family accommodation; the family chalets offer privacy to parents with two bedrooms and also have a private deck overlooking the river bed. Communal areas include a large lounge area, kids room and a small outside play area, which is a rarity in Kruger lodges and allows children to let off a bit of steam between game drives. Add to this family friendly menus, enthusiatic guides and excellent game and you have a very good value family safari option.

8) HILLSNEK, EASTERN CAPE SOUTH AFRICA

A lovely small tented camp located in the Amakhala Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape. This is the ideal location for families looking for malaria-free safari. The contemporary and comfortable tents can sleep up to four people and there is a small pool as well. Amakhala is home to the Big Five and is a convenient safari destination after exploring the Garden Route. A genuinely intimate and boutique option, for families who want to enjoy the great outdoors, but not at the expense of their creature comforts.

9) SANCTUARY SAADANI, TANZANIA

Unique camp offering safari, beach relaxation and snorkelling from one location. For many families not keen on lots of transfers and moving about this makes for the perfect relaxing safari and beach holiday, just fly in and enjoy!

10) MARA INTREPIDS, MASAI MARA KENYA

Yes it is big and commercial, but we've yet to find a camp in the whole of Africa that can match Mara Intrepids superb children's program. Mara Intrepids is located bang in the heart of the Masai Mara and guides are superb with kids. If you prefer to have organised activities for the children, then this is hands down the best choice. Heavily reduced prices are available in off peak periods (February half term, Easter, May half term holidays)

Unmissable Road Trip Adventures

Thu, 11 Dec 2014 14:40:00 +0000

We believe that time spent in a car on a road trip is a means to an end. What you really should be doing, is getting out there and experiencing the landscape and breathing in the fresh air. Most National Parks have a road infrastructure that means that you can drive to the view points and tick them off, without getting a sense of the place. So we say, ditch the car and go exploring. Where you rest your weary head at the end of the day is just as important, so we have paired each of our favourite adventures with some of our favourite places to stay, where you can sit back and relax together after a fun-filled day out. The options are endless, but here are some of our favourites:

1) Singletrack & Laid Back Relaxation

One of the best ways to experience the mountains has to be riding single track. The Sierra Nevada mountains at Lake Tahoe are one of the best places to do this, with awesome views, exhilarating downhills and tracks for all levels of availability. You can choose to ride from ½ day to a full on 3 day tour. If you are travelling with a non-rider, then there is plenty for them to do in the area, from stand up paddle boarding to relaxing on the beach, or a beginners trip can be arranged. In the evening, we suggest you stay at the independent Basecamp Hotel, a hub for adventure travellers, where you can sit in the roof top hot tub and rest your tired limbs whilst watching the stars coming out, or sit in the cosy communal lounge and share tales of your day with like-minded travellers.

2) White Water Rafting & Swing Benches

Nothing quits beats the thrill of rafting down a river swimming and playing one minute and then, with a quickening heart, approaching some mighty rapids and riding them, paddling as if your life depended on it. The best rafting that we have done is in Utah, based from the independent town of Moab. You can choose between anything from a 1 day rafting trip to 5 days on the river, camping on the sandy banks each night. With the multi-day trip, you get further away from other people and also have a chance to do some walking and nothing quite beats sitting by the river, toasting marshmallows on a campfire, watching the stars coming out overhead. After roughing it on the river, we suggest a splurge by spending a couple of nights at the exclusive Sorrel River Ranch. Here, you can visit the spa, releax around the pool, or watch the river running past you from the comfort of your swing bench. If some members of your party don’t fancy the rafting, this makes a perfect base for them while you hit the water.

3) Slot Canyoning & Mountain Retreat

Utah is famous for its slot canyons, formed by powerful flash flooding and stretching for miles. The only way to experience them is to rappel, squeeze and shuffle through. Because of the ever-changing weather and desolation of the desert, we recommend you only explore the canyons with a guide. Exploring these deep red rocks is not for the faint hearted, however, there are exhilarating 50 foot plus rappels and tight spaces to squeeze through. You are rewarded at the end of the day, however, with a huge sense of achievement and the pleasure of spending a day without seeing any other humans. Escalante, where there are some excellent examples of slot canyons, is a small town with not much in the way of inspiring accommodation options. After a day canyoning, we strongly advise that you stay at the nearby Boulder Mountain Lodge to be rewarded with lovely views, a welcoming hot tub and delicious steak. If some members of your party don’t fancy a day out in the canyons, there is plenty to keep them occupied at the lodge.

4) Wilderness Trekking & Boutique Hotel

The Ansel Adams wilderness area in the Sierra Nevada adjacent to Yosemite National Park has some of the most out-standing views in the USA and the best part is that you are sharing them with no one. If you like the idea of going off the grid and enjoy hiking and camping, then we recommend spending 4 days walking, wild swimming and breathing in the fresh mountain air. You can keep the price down and carry your own gear, or you can have it transported by mules. Hiking up to the remote mountain lakes, you will be roughing it, camping with no facilities, no bathrooms in sight. After a few days out on the wilds, we recommend you spoil yourself with some creature comforts, staying in a boutique hotel with all of the bells and whistles which you can use as a base for visiting the more popular of Yosemite’s attractions, or you can simply lie back and relax around the pool.

5) Surf and Sun-bathe

Vast Pacific rollers, sun-kissed sandy beaches and the Beach Boys, nothing speaks surfing more than California. You don’t need to be a professional to have a go; it’s just you and the waves. The best way to approach surfing is time; one day doesn’t cut it, especially if you’re a beginner. You need a good teacher, good equipment and lots of patience. For newbies, nothing beats the feeling of managing to stand up for the first time, whilst experienced surfers will just love the chance to be in surfing’s spiritual home. It is an exhausting sport, however, so you will need somewhere comfortable to rest afterwards. If you are travelling with a non-surfer, then we suggest the Dream Inn at Santa Cruz. While you are out surfing, your other half can watch from the balcony, or catch some rays and relax at the hotel swimming pool which over-looks the beach.

Our Top 5 Family Friendly Hotels in the USA

Wed, 10 Dec 2014 13:28:00 +0000

Travelling together as a family can be an immensely bonding experience, full of quality time and a chance to reconnect as a unit. Where you sleep at night and relax after a day out exploring can have a major impact on the enjoyment of your holiday. The majority of hotel accommodation in the USA is in large hotels, which tick all of the boxes for facilities, but can leave you feeling less than inspired about sleeping arrangements - you either all have to cram in one room together sharing beds, or you have to split across rooms. We have chosen our five favourite hotels that offer something a little different for families; giving everyone a little more space to spread out and giving parents some privacy.

1) Red Cliffs Lodge, Moab

Located on the banks of the Colorado River, this lodge has some fantastic 2 bedroom cabins with river frontage. The cabin accommodation is self contained, there are two bedrooms a kitchen / lounge area with sofa bed and then also a private outside deck which gives adults somewhere nice to sit and relax once the children are in bed. The property also has a pool and tennis court and there are horses on site, so riders can head off and explore for a few hours.

2) The Platinum Hotel & Spa, Las Vegas

Las Vegas doesn't stand out as a family friendly destination, but this non-gaming hotel makes a fantastic base for families visiting the city. This is an all suite hotel, meaning that every room has a kitchenette, large bathroom, bedroom and lounge area with a sofa bed. Families can spread out here and parents can have their own room. There is a good sized pool on the property, which is surrounded with sun loungers, so parents can lie back and sun bathe while the children swim.

3) The Beach Street Inn

We love the family suites at the Beach Street Inn. Located in the heart of Santa Cruz just across the road from the beach, this is not the most expensive option in town, but it is a friendly motel with beach chic decor. The family suites have one or two bedrooms with a large kitchen / lounge with two sofa beds, so there is ample room for families to spread out. Outside the room, there is a verandah with seating area, so there is somewhere for parents to sit outside while the children are in bed. The beaches in the town are ideal for beginner surfers / body boarders and you can rent gear on the beach.

4) The Resort at Squaw Creek, Lake Tahoe

This is a high end option, for families wanting more of a resort style stay. Located in the north of Lake Tahoe in the Squaw Valley which was home to the 1960 Winter Olympics, the resort has mountain views and is the perfect base for mountain biking, stand up paddle boarding, or simply just relaxing. Family suites in the hotel offer a bedroom for parents and then a kitchen / lounge area with sofa bed. The resort has four hot tubs (which are especially magnificent under the stars at night) and three swimming pools, one of which has a water slide, which will keep children entertained for hours. Some of our guests have enjoyed a lovely stay here with one parent heading off to go mountain biking whilst the rest of the family relaxes around the pool.

5) Hyatt Grand, Los Angeles

It is unlikely that anyone visiting Los Angeles with their family is going to avoid a visit to the theme parks. There are Disney resort hotels, but we love the Hyatt Grand in Anaheim, 10 minutes down the road from Disneyland. The family suites are not only exceptionally good value, but they are cleverly designed with a family friendly lay out. Children sleep at one end of the room in bunk beds and then there is room divider giving parents that extra space and privacy for the evenings. The hotel has two pools, a basket ball court and giant board games outside. This is a very family friendly hotel, so you can lie back on the sun lounger not worrying if your child is splashing around too much in the water.

The Ultimate Family Walking Safari

Mon, 01 Dec 2014 16:09:00 +0000

I woke in the early hours, accustomed now to the baboons, the new acoustic was more impressive and significantly closer to home. The distinctive laugh of the hyena shot through the night and it was very close. Thankful for the thin canvas walls, I slowly drifted off back to sleep glad I had taken it easy on the beer at sunset and I wouldn’t need to brave a visit to the loo.

I’ve always been attracted to wild spaces and heading out on foot into the bush has been high on my bucket list for some time. I like luxury as much as the next person, but more than luxury, I crave wild places. On a safari, in a way, the wilderness and lack of other tourists is the one true luxury above all others. To walk the land, camp in wild places and share the bush only with the wildlife is a visceral experience, completely without pretension, that puts you at the very heart of the experience, rather than merely an observer.

A walking safari requires patience, but when you do finally spot wildlife, it is infinitely more rewarding than on a game drive. In a honeypot such as Ngorongoro Crater or the Masai Mara, your driver need only lend his ear to his 2 way radio, and he’ll whizz you to the latest big cat sighting, jostling you for position with the other drivers beckoned by the call of the radio. Here things happen much slower, but when they do, wow. You’ll cautiously track, carefully staying downwind, analysing spoor – and then finally, peaceful watchful observation, just you and your vastly experienced Samburu guide whispering in your ear, no one else around for miles. You are very much in their environment and the wildlife are very much in yours.

Before we go too Ray Mears, I need to admit that this is an undertaking not without its comforts. Mattresses, bucket showers, superb bush meals in artfully chosen lookout spots, cold beer sundowners and even private toilet tents are the order of the day. This isn’t exactly camping light, but still, this is as close as you need or probably want to get. With 8 year old in tow we weren’t keen on mega miles and the route was in keeping with that. 4-5 hours gentle walking through the bush, stopping frequently to inspect spore and pull out the binoculars to identify mostly fairly skittish wildlife. We were experts by the end of the 4 days, and could easily identify zebra poo from giraffe poo, hell we would even pick out a Grevy’s zebras’ footprint from your more common Plains zebra. Camels are on hand for the children to ride should they tire and they don’t half provide a good vantage point high up there. The 8 year old though was keen to prove her mettle and make it all the way on foot.

After breakfast we’d set out through the bush, taking time to detour whenever we saw anything of interest. We saw giraffe and zebra, a tortoise crossed our path, but for the most part the wildlife is very shy of humans on foot. We followed the tracks of hyena which had passed through only moments before and eventually we saw them dart off through the bushes. We stumbled upon wild hunting dog – a real treat in this part of Kenya, the adults were out hunting, leaving behind the young with a ‘babysitter’ who understandably was very wary of our presence, we swiftly backed away so as not to disturb. Finally we passed downwind of a small herd of elephant, being careful to stay well clear.

After the walk we passed a slow relaxing afternoon at our next camp, before heading out for a sundowner. They say the beer tastes better the better the view and the harder to reach, and I’d find it hard to disagree with them.

We partner with Karisia Walking Safaris, who operate on the Laikipia Plateau in Northern Kenya. Run by experienced explorers Kerry & James, this is the ultimate safari adventure, with exceptionally experienced walking guides. Treks are tailored, with easier or more challenging routes depending on whether it is an adult or family group. Karisia’s Samburu guides are exceptional, some of the best we have experienced in Kenya. An advantage of walking safaris over game drives is in the quality of the guides. To confidently take guests out into the bush with all the dangers that represents, you need a guide who has not only studied the wildlife, but who knows how to read the bush.

Tourdust Recommends: Combine with some pool time and a game drive at El Karama. If budget allows, combine with the Mara and Coast (Kenya or Zanzibar)

Need to know: Walking safaris operate year round, although expect there to be some rain during the long rains in April / May and short rains in November.

For Families: Families in particular are well looked after. Kerry & Glen the owners live themselves under canvas out in the bush with their own children and tweak the walking safaris to suit families. Having the camels to ride is a major advantage for children who don’t always have the same enthusiasm for covering miles underfoot and the guides are well used to dealing with children. For a family of four the rate works out roughly equivalent to that at a good mid-range safari camp and is surprisingly affordable (as far as safaris go). This is arguably the ultimate family adventure, guaranteeing bragging rights for your kids, an experience that will undoubtedly have all members of the families away from their devices. Because the experience is so tailored and always private there are few restrictions on ages. The minimum age for children is 4 years old, but this is something we would usually recommend for families with slightly children older than 7 and is ideal for families with teenagers.

Safety: Karissia don’t operate in an area heaving with predators, so walking here is much safer than in a densely populated wildlife area such as the Masai Mara. You are in the hands of exceptionally experienced guides.

America's Most Iconic Drives

Wed, 19 Nov 2014 15:41:00 +0000

With vast horizons, quiet roads which stretch on forever and a plethora of National Parks and Monuments, the USA is a road tripper's dream. The Western states of Colorado, Utah, Arizona, Nevada & California have more than their fair share of the iconic drives stakes. Here are some of the routes which absolutely must not be missed on a USA road trip.

1) Scenic Byway 12, Utah

Perhaps one of the most beautiful drives of all time, this road snakes away from Bryce Canyon up through mountains to Capitol Reef National Park. Covering a distance of 124 miles, the road takes you through forests, vast canyons and barren desert land, through an environment that was once inhabited by dinosaurs. The 360 degree views give you a sense of the real scale of the country and fills you with enormous respect for the pioneers who first settled there. Once you reach Capitol Reef National Park, there is some fantastic hiking as well as some excellent examples of Native American petrolglyphs (cave paintings.) This route features in our Best of the South West Road Trip.

2) Pacific Coast Highway, California

Surely one of the most iconic drives out there, the Pacific Coast Highway runs for almost the entire length of California. However, the section between San Francisco and Los Angeles, passing through Big Sur, is probably the most famous. The two Californian cities are highlights in their own rights, but it is the wind swept beaches, sheer cliffs, giant surf and marine life which attracts tourists in their droves each year. This route features in our Pacific Coast Highway & Highlights of California Road Trips.

3) Tioga Pass, Yosemite, California

This beautiful section of Yosemite is only accessible during the summer months - it is closed during the winter due to the snow. This, as well as the fact that the majority of visiotrs concentrate their efforts on the valley area, mean that the number of cars on the road is relatively low even in the summer. Reaching up to an elevation of over 3,000m, the views from the road are absolutely stunning. The road passes the lush Tuolumne Meadows and then rewards visitors with outstanding views of the Half Dome. There are several lakes along the way where you can go wild swimming. Once you have left the park, there is a steep descent down to Mono Lake. The Tioga Pass features in the Highlights of California and the Las Vegas & California Road Trips.

4) Desert View Drive, Grand Canyon, Arizona

One of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World, the Grand Canyon it quite rightly up there on most people's bucket list. Most people enter from the South entrance, but the East entrance is best if you're approaching from Monument Valley and offers a stunning drive. The distance itself is not that great, but there are so many viewpoints, each offering a slightly different angle of the Grand Canyon, so you could quite easily spend all day on the road. The Desert View Drive features in the Best of the South West Road Trip.

5) The Strip, Las Vegas

You might think we're mad including a city drive amongst the National Parks & scenic byways, but driving down the Las Vegas strip ticks all of the iconic drive boxes, especially if you do it at night. The scenery is a complete assalut on the senses, with bright pink flamingoes, pirate ships, the Eiffel Tower and Camelot castle just some of the sights that you will see. Very few people choose to walk in Las Vegas, so get in the car, turn the air con up and enjoy the show! The Strip features in the Best of the South West and Las Vegas & California Road Trips.

6) Route 66, Illinois - California

You can't have an article about iconic road trips without mentioning Route 66, the Daddy of all road trips. The total route in ite entirerty stretches from Chicago to Santa Monica and whilst some people like to travel the full route, going through 8 states, other people like to sample a strecth of it. The section from Flagstaff through to Seligman in Arizona passes through desert and it is possible to visit ghost towns along the way, abandoned in the last century. Route 66 features in the Best of the South West Road Trip.

USA Holidays Need to Know

Wed, 19 Nov 2014 15:33:00 +0000

What is different about your holidays in the USA?

We have developed our USA collection to get the optimum balance between independent and guided activities. There are some places where you don’t need a guide and you will have more fun exploring independently. However, there are also activities and places where having a guide will deeply enhance your experience. We strike a careful balance between these two and, having tried and tested the trips ourselves, believe we have developed itineraries that are unique and exciting.

In a nutshell: Handpicked activities and accommodation and a balance of independent vs guided

How do we get there?

You can get direct flights from the UK to the USA. Some of the most competitive fares are from London to Las Vegas, but you can also fly to Denver, Phoenix, San Francisco and Los Angeles direct. Flight times are approximately 10 ½ hours. For this reason, coupled with the time difference, we strongly suggest you try to get direct flights as having to go via another gateway airport adds time and pain to the journey, especially on your outbound flights. Experience shows that it pays to book ahead with trans-Atlantic flights, as prices are prone to increase closer to the departure date.

We are ATOL bonded and can happily help with your flight booking.

Do we need visas?

British passport holders are eligible to enter the USA under the Visa Waiver Programme. You need to provide your flight information and passport details and pay an administrative fee. Applying is pretty straight forward and can be done via this official website https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta/

Once you arrive in the US, you will need to queue for immigration. You will need to do this even if you are in transit. You will need to provide finger prints and eye scans.

How much will it cost?

Our USA Road Trip holidays start from £923 per person, based on two adults travelling together. This price covers a hire car, all accommodation and activities as per the itineraries. On top of that, you will need to budget for flights, which can be from £670 in the low season to £1,100 in the peak of the summer. Once there, you will need to budget for tips, entrance fees, petrol and food - expect to spend from $150 per day, although this price will depend wildly on where you eat and visit.

How long do I need?

To a certain extent, the answer to that question is how long is a piece of string? It really depends on how long you have and your budget. The costs of flying out to the USA are not insignificant, so we suggest that you plan your time carefully.

Most people need at least a couple of days to adjust to the time difference, so you will need to allow yourselves a couple of rest days at the beginning of your holiday. This time, more than any, you will appreciate splashing out on some nice accommodation with a pool, especially if you are arriving in the middle of the summer.

We have 10 day – 2 week itineraries for you to choose from. If you have three weeks, then you can go at a slightly gentler pace and see most of the highlights of the area.

When is the best time to go?

The South Western States enjoy a four season climate, although experience more extremes than in the UK. Winters can be cold with plenty of snow. Summer temperatures can be high (reaching the high 30’s in places) and the humidity means that there can be thunderstorms, especially in July & August. Coastal California enjoys a more temperate climate, with milder winters and warm summers. Northern Californian coastal areas including San Francisco can become shrouded with fog during the mornings and evenings.

Spring and autumn have milder temperatures, making it an ideal time for keen hikers to visit. We suggest that if you want to spend any time hiking in the Grand Canyon, then you are better saving your visit for these seasons.

The National Parks tend to be busier around the public holidays and school holidays (June / July)

Travelling in Peru with Children

Thu, 06 Nov 2014 12:50:00 +0000

Peru is, by is very nature, a family friendly destination. You will find that local people are particularly welcoming if you have children and you won’t ever feel out of place in a restaurant with your children as they will be welcomed with open arms. If you were planning on taking them anywhere in Latin America, Peru has to be top of the list; with accessible, dense rainforest, stunning scenery and ancient Incan ruins, it offers something of interest for everyone in the family.

Older Children

For families with older children, Peru has adventurous activities on tap, especially in the Cusco area. Teenagers can tackle the Inca Trail, go white water rafting, mountain biking or horse riding. Up at Lake Titicaca, you can opt for a boat trip, or go paddling and explore by kayak. In the jungle, there is wildlife watching, kayaking, mountain biking and trekking on offer.

For less active and more culturally minded teenagers, the ruins and history of the Sacred Valley can’t fail to be of interest. There is a great museum in Cusco which puts more context to the history and there are some lovely walking tours of Cusco. Cusco has a young, laid back vibe, so teens will definitely enjoy the atmosphere which is fun and unstuffy. Chocolate lovers might want to consider booking on to a chocolate making workshop at the local chocolate museum.

Younger children

At first glance, a holiday with lots of cultural highlights might not be top of a wish list for those with the under 12’s. However, there is no reason at all why your children wouldn’t love the Incan Ruins at Machu Picchu, or the terraces in the Sacred Valley. For better or worse, visitors are free to roam to their hearts content throughout the archaeological sites, which means that children don’t have to stand behind ropes, but can explore the terraces and ruins by walking in them. Our guides do their best to make the history relevant to all of their guests, but it might also be worth getting hold of a Horrible Histories ;Incredible Incas’ book to help make it fun.

The jungle is an absolute highlight for our younger guests. Not only do they get to visit a rainforest and see monkeys, parrots and a whole host of other wildlife, but they get a family friendly guide who organises activities for the whole family. The programme is loosely tied around a rainforest treasure hunt, which aims to teach about conservation and ecology as well as the flora and fauna of the jungle. At night, you sleep in rooms with one wall open to the jungle, it doesn’t get much more exciting than that!

If your children want to be able to let off some physical steam, we can arrange a gentle river trip, horse riding or some walking in the Cusco & Sacred Valley area.

Best time of Year for Families to Visit Peru

You can visit Peru most of the year round, although the time to avoid is January – March which is the height of the rainy season in the Andes and whilst Machu Picchu will be quiet, it will also be wet and cloudy. For uninterrupted views and sunny days, you would be best off visiting the summer school holidays. This is also the dry season in the rainforest, which makes mosquitoes less of a problem. Be aware that June – September is the high season on the Inca Trail, so book well ahead to secure a permit.

October half term Christmas & Easter are also possibilities. This will be the rainy season in the Rainforest, which can make the experience all the more evocative, but you will also experience high humidity, wet paths and mosquitoes. October & April in the mountains will be pleasant and less busy than the summer.

Tourdust Peru Holidays

We have developed two itineraries for families wanting to visit Peru. One is for older families wanting to trek the Inca trail and immerse themselves in Incan history and culture, as well as challenging themselves to a days white water rafting on the Urubamba River. Our other holiday is the Incas & Amazon holiday for those not wanting to attempt the trek. Families will still have a chance to visit Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, but will travel by train. They will then transfer to the rainforest for a fantastic jungle experience.

All of our Peru holidays are bespoke, so if you would like to tailor-make your itinerary, please don't hesitate to get in touch.

Adventure & Creepy Crawlies in the Amazon

Thu, 06 Nov 2014 10:56:00 +0000

Visiting the Jungle was on my wishlist for as long as I can remember, so I absolutely jumped at the chance to go and visit a jungle lodge deep in the Amazon. The approach to the jungle lodge is by boat, so before you can blink, you are whisked from the plane to store your luggage (there are strict weight restrictions in place) and you are then shuttled to the port to catch a boat upstream. The Tambopata River, snaking its way through the jungle is all you could hope from a rainforest waterway; brown, murky and mysterious. With a two and a half hour boat ride up to our jungle lodge, there was plenty of time to sit back, relax and watch the scenery. The week before I went there had been a sighting of an elusive jaguar on the banks of the mighty river. We were not quite so lucky, but were still thrilled with what we did manage to see which included a capivari (which looks much like and over-sized guinea pig), caimans, an impressive King Vulture as well as some illegal loggers; the murkier side to jungle life.

Upon arrival at our accommodation, I got off the boat with a certain amount of trepidation. Those who know me know that I am a wildlife lover, but not if it’s crawling all over me. The lodge that we were staying at has one big wow factor that I was both looking forward to and dreading; there were only 3 walls, the 4th was open to the jungle. The spacious rooms all look out into the dense jungle and whilst the room is completely open, much to my relief there were heavy duty mosquito nets which ensure that there are no unwanted visitors in the night.

That said, you can hear everything in the jungle, especially at night, which certainly reminds you that you are in the middle of the wild.The lodge itself is lovely, the room had a hammock facing out to the trees and the communal area was vast, with a mezzanine level which is a perfect hang out for families. For younger children there is also a playground, where kids can let off some steam.

But what people come to the jungle for are the activities and there are some fantastic options to choose between. We started off with a nature walk through the jungle to a clay lick to watch for parrots coming to the local clay lick. While the parrots are the indisputable wow factor, the plants and trees are absolutely fascinating and like nothing I’ve ever seen. Everything I remembered (hazily) learning at school about rainforests came to life and seeing the trees fighting for their space in the canopy was amazing. This came to life even more the next day when we climbed up the canopy tower at dawn to get a breath-taking view of the rainforest. We saw toucans flying and heard the eerie rumble of howler monkeys wafting across the tree-tops, something I will never forget.

Back on the ground, I was in the mood for something more active, so headed off with a local guide (who was clearly related to Rambo) for some river kayaking. I love exploring by kayak, something about the peace of paddling along with just the sounds of the jungle for company and we managed to get up close to some caiman on the river bed. Rambo swam in the river, but I wimped out (something about the anaconda story I had read somewhere that put me off!)

Other activities on offer were more walking and also a boat trip on an oxbow lake, as well as a chance to visit a local community. Families with children are offered a completely separate programme, based around a rainforest treasure hunt. The children in the lodge loved it, as did the parents. The Amazon lived up to my expectations and then some. I absolutely loved being in such a different environment and it was so refreshing to be somewhere that is dominated by the natural world, rather than people. You'll be pleased to hear that thankfully, the only creepy crawlies I saw were in the great outdoors, not in my bed. I can’t wait to go back.

The Best of California's Theme Parks

Fri, 24 Oct 2014 11:41:00 +0100

Whether you're a die hard theme park fanatic, or a real cynic, it's hard to resist a trip to a theme park when you're visiting California. With the right attitude and a sense of fun, even the most reluctant visitors can have an enjoyable day out. Prepare for hot sun, high prices and long queues and leave your cynicism at the door and we guarantee you will end the day with a smile on your face. Here is our low down of the best of the theme parks on offer.

1) Disneyland

The original Disney theme park has been drawing crowds since it first opened it's doors in 1955. Now officially known as the Disneyland Resort, it has expanded into two parks; Disneyland Park and Disney California Adventure. Famous for fireworks, parades and rides, it has confidently dubbed itself 'the happiest place on earth.' And it's hard to resist the sense of fun and over the top cheeriness. There are rides for all of the family, so thrill seekers of all ages can enjoy themselves. Various ticket options are on offer, from 1 day visits to 5 day Disney extravaganzas. Many hotels in the area offer a shuttle service, so you don't have to worry about bringing the cart along.

2) Knotts Berry Farm

Just down the road from Disneyland, this theme park has an Old West theme and is targeted especially at the roller-coaster loving teens and older families. The famous Silver Bullet is a suspended 'coaster with a drop of 109 feet, whilst the Ghost Rider claims to be one of the longest and tallest wooden roller coasters in the world. Cheaper than Disneyland and also smaller, this is a fun option and, like Disneyland, many Anaheim hotels can arrange a shuttle service. No fireworks, but the Western theme is fun, especially the daily Cowboy show

3) Hollywood Universal Studios

Movie lovers and film aficionados will not want to miss Hollywood Universal Studios. The legendary studio tour still features an encounter with Jaws, as well as some more modern films that your children will have heard of and an earthquake simulation. You can also visit the special effects stage, where you can learn all abut CGI and 3D technology. In the theme park, there are rides a plenty, including a Despicable Me ride and a 3D Transformers ride.

4) Santa Cruz Boardwalk

In terms of location, you can't get much better than the Santa Cruz Boardwalk, with stunning views of the Pacific. This traditional amusement park is home to the Big Dipper, which has thrilled over 60,000,000 riders since 1924 and Undertow, which claims to be Northern California's only spinning coaster. For younger guests, there are family rides and a good sized pirate-themed crazy golf course, complete with neon under-water section. The best time to visit the Boardwalk is in the late afternoon, early evening when the lights go on and the atmosphere is buzzing.

Hitting the Beach in California

Wed, 22 Oct 2014 17:37:00 +0100

For many, a holiday is simply not complete without some serious beach time. With more than 1,100 miles of stunning coastline and a fantastic climate, California has plenty to offer beach lovers, from wild and secluded surf spots to sunbathing amongst celebrities near LA. As a general rule, the further north you go along the coast, the beaches become quieter and wilder, with some stunning landscape to complement the shore. (Of course beach towns and cities form an exception to this rule.) In a complete generalisation, it would be fair to say that people watchers & sun-bathers should aim for the southern coast, whilst nature lovers and beach combers should go north. Surfers can take their pick all along the coast. The beautiful, sandy beaches aren't just a draw from overseas visitors, however. Domestic tourism pulls in the majority of visitors, from both California and the rest of the US, meaning that accommodation can book out months in advance, especially during the summer holidays, so our advice is to plan ahead. Here is a summary of our favourite beaches in California.

1) Huntington Beach, Orange CountyThe self-proclaimed surf city, Huntington Beach is one of Southern California's gems, with 10 miles miles of long, sandy beaches. It is a popular spot, so can get very busy at weekends, but is a fantastic place to come and sun-bathe or try out the surf, with some of the most consistent waves along the coast. If surfing isn't your thing, then you can splash in the waves and watch the numerous games of beach volleyball along the beach. In the evenings, there are fire pits on the beach, where you can light a fire and indulge in s'mores, a traditional American camp fire treat! Huntington Beach is an easy drive from Anaheim, so is especially convenient for those basing themselves in the area for the theme parks.

2) Santa CruzJust an hour south of San Francisco, Santa Cruz is a laid back town, with a slightly alternative vibe. The spiritual home of surfing, Santa Cruz has some excellent beaches and also the famous Boardwalk, which features amusements and the famous Big Dipper roller coaster. On the beach, there are body boards and surf boards for hire and it's easy to arrange lessons. Beaches in the town are busy, so if you wnat to avoid the crowds, you may want to get in the car and drive to one of the nearby options with fewer people. Santa Cruz is a great choice if you want to spend a few days on the beach and exploring the Pacific Highway. Away from the beach, you can go and see some Giant Redwood trees up at Henry Cowell State Park, or drive to Monterery to the aquarium. In the summer months, you may well see the fog that the region is known for; usually worst in the mornings and evenings.

3) MalibuBaywatch eat your heart out, if people watching and celebrity spotting floats your boat, then the beaches of Malibu are where you need to be. These are places where you go to see and be seen, so get your skimpiest bikini and your in-line skates and get ready to strut your stuff.

4) Big SurLocated at the half way point between Los Angeles & San Francisco, Big Sur is a rugged and wild part of the Pacific Coast; the complete antithesis of the people packed beaches around LA. One of the most well-known of the beaches is Pfeiffer Beach, famed for its huge rock formation and crashing waves. These beaches are generally not for swimming - currents and rip tides and no life guards see to that - but they are for hiking, beach combing and feeling the sea spray in your hair! There are a couple of luxurious accommodation options, but these fill up months and months in advance and have a vast price tag. The most economical way to visit Big Sur is to base yourself in one of the nearby coastal towns, pack a picnic and go for the day.

5) Lake TahoeYes we know this isn't a coastal beach, but Lake Tahoe measures a massive 191 square miles and is in an enviable location, surrounded by mountains. The calm crystal clear waters and sandy beaches are a perfect location for sun-bathing and swimming and the lack of tides make sit a safe place for children to splash about. Many people are attracted here for the water sports and he calm waters encourage many to try their hands at stand up paddle boarding and kayaking. If you are visiting North California, then Lake Tahoe is an excellent option for some relaxing beach time.

Letting off some steam in Blyde Canyon

Wed, 15 Oct 2014 11:33:00 +0100

Even when she very young, my middle daughter was always on the move. While her older sister could sit happily for hours colouring in and drawing, Milly needed action, preferably outdoors. From the moment she was mobile, she would crawl over to the front door and wait for someone to open it so she could head for the great outdoors. So when I decided to bring her with me on a recent trip to South Africa, I was intrigued (and slightly nervous) about how she would cope with sitting on game drives for hours at a time with no outlet for her energy.

In reality, the short answer to that is that she was absolutely fine. She loved the opportunity to see lions feasting on a buffalo, giraffes grazing and leopards stalking an impala (who wouldn’t) and was enthusiastic about spotting the smaller things as well (a rain spider in our bathroom remains a talking point to this day.) However, I had included a few opportunities in our itinerary so that we could experience something a bit different. This included some time at the beach, horse riding and a day in the Blyde Canyon area. The latter which remains, to this day, her absolute highlight of the trip.

Blyde Canyon is the 3rd largest canyon on earth, but with so many amazing highlights to choose from in a country like South Africa, it sometimes gets over-looked. When it is included in an itinerary, it is usually as part of a whistle-stop tour of the Panorama Route – an afternoon visit to the view points and then back in the car for the next sight. For obvious reasons, I didn’t want to that type of a stop and so we met with a local guide, born and bred in the area, who took us to completely off the beaten track for a couple of days.

The first thing we did was an afternoon hike to a hidden waterfall. With no one else around, we walked through woodland until we reached the pool with clear waters and plenty of rocks to jump off. It was too late in the afternoon for a full on swim, but we had so much fun skimming stones and paddling in the water.

The next morning we set off to get a view of the canyon, passing some stunning scenery along the way. With not another car on the road, we parked up and then had a short walk to a view point where we were free to clamber on rocks and let off some steam. And the views we were rewarded with were out of this world. I have been to the Grand Canyon and shared the viewpoints with countless other tourists, but to have this amazing landscape all to ourselves was heaven.

After being on top of the world, we then descended to a picnic spot at the base of the canyon where our guide set about cooking us an alfresco lunch. We were just by a gorgeous river with a rope swing, so had huge amounts of fun spending the afternoon messing around by the river before warming up with a hot meal.

Having two days to run, climb and swim and make lots of noise without seeing another person was heaven on earth for my both myself and my daughter. She loved the clambering on rocks and the freedom to roam and I loved being able to take in the amazing views and have some physical activity. That spelled the end of Blyde Canyon adventure, as sadly our schedule meant that we had to move on. However, had we more time, the next day we would have gone canyoning to explore some of the hidden caves in the side canyons. A reason (as if I needed one) to go back again one day.

Highlights of Africa - The Five Best Safaris for Families

Thu, 09 Oct 2014 13:46:00 +0100

For us, the best safari is not just about seeing the big five. Experiencing the wilderness, spending a night out fly camping under the stars, getting out of the 4WD and exploring on foot or horseback, spending some laid back time with the Masai practising with spears and making bows and arrows, these are the things that bring your safari alive. And not just that, they give you a sense of Africa that you will never get if all you ever see is the inside of a 4WD and luxurious camp. In our experience children love game drives initially, but depending on the child, their enthusiasm will start to wane after a couple of days of back to back morning and afternoon game drives. So a safari that mixes things up with some game drives, some more active time and some time exploring Africa's stunning wilderness areas always works brilliantly for families. The five once in a lifetime experiences we have picked out here are the places that have really stood out for us and consistently get fantastic feedback from families. Amongst them are some of our favourite places in the whole of Africa, places we'd happily visit again and again year in and year out with our own families.

RIDING WITH THE RHINOS AT ANTS NEST

Ants Nest may not have the big five, but they do have plenty of plains game and the views are to die for. Spend your days on bush walks, horse riding amongst rhino, giraffe, zebra and wildebeest or heading out for an overnight at the bush camp. This place really comes alive for horse riders, but is great fun for beginners too. Non-riders can have lessons, or if you prefer to stay on the ground, then there are walking options and game drives instead. This the kind of place where you wish you'd booked in for a week. See here for more details on Ants Nest.
Sosian Ranch in Kenya is also a superb option for riders (need to be experienced)

WILD SWIMMING AND UNDISCOVERED CAVES AT BLYDE CANYON

The perfect antidote to a more traditional safari in the Kruger area, the Blyde Canyon is one of the largest and most spectacular canyons in the world. The Blyde Canyon River Adventure really gets under the skin of this spectacular location heading well off the beaten track with a superb local guide exploring hidden view points, undiscovered caves and swimming holes. An absolute highlight. See our Kruger, Cape Town and Blyde River Adventure.

FLY CAMPING, ROCK CLIMBING & WILD DOGS IN LAIKIPIA

In the Northern wilderness of Kenya, Laikipia with its vast area of bush, rocky kopjes and streams offers one of the finest wilderness safari experiences in Africa. Elephants, black rhino and wild dogs all thrive here and although it doesn't compare to the Masai Mara in terms of the big cat populations, there is a good chance you'll see a lion or leopard. With such a vast area and so few camps, you really have the place to yourself out here. What really marks Laikipia Wilderness Camp out though are the guides and the experience. Expect an itinerary tailored to your family, with fly camping out in the wild, messing about in the river, meals served out in the bush and sundowners atop rocky kopjes, it is quite simply, Africa at its best. See here for our Laikipia Family Holiday sample itinerary.

GETTING OVER THE HUMP ON A CAMEL SUPPORTED WALKING SAFARI IN KENYA
A true adventure. There is nothing quite like heading out on foot into the bush, without forsaking the comforts of a comfortable camp, bucket shower and cold beer at the end of the day. Walking through the bush, you quickly learn how to identify footprints and dung and stay downwind of the wildlife. Waking up in the night to the sound of hyenas sniffing around camp, you know you are in for a real adventure. What makes these walking safaris perfect for families is that the children can ride the camels.

Fantastic walking safari is also available for families in the Serengeti (albeit without the camels, but no less comfort)

GOING MAASAI AT MAGI MOTO

There are no shortage of cultural manyattas in Kenya and Tanzania, but all too often these are pretty dire, places where big lodges can ship in their guests for a couple of hours to buy trinkets. However done right, spending some time with people from a vastly different culture than our own can be fascinating, fun and rewarding, especially for families. Magi Moto is an inspiring eco camp on the approach to the Masai Mara with a warm welcome and a big heart. We camp here and head out on bush walks with the Masai learning about medicinal plants, learn how to make a bow and arrow and sit around the camp fire trading stories. Our Maasai Family Adventure includes overnight camping at Magi Moto.

Relaxing at Lake Tahoe

Wed, 08 Oct 2014 15:01:00 +0100

I had heard of Lake Tahoe as a winter sports destination, but when a friend of mine suggested it as an idea for some summer r & r with some watersports thrown in, I was a little surprised. Home to the 1960 winter olympics, it is well-known as a mecca for skiers and snow boarders, but I was rather sceptical about the idea of spending some relaxation time on the beach of a lake. However, I have always secretly fancied giving stand up paddle boarding a go, so decided to head over and try it out for myself.

The lake itself is huge. At it's widest point it measures 19km and it is 35km long and it is one of the highest large lakes in the USA. Located at an elevation of 1,897 m, it enjoys a pleasant climate, with sunny days, but not as hot as other inland Californian destinations. The Lake itself forms the border between California and Nevada and is easily aceesible from Yosemite and San Francisco. There are plenty of accommodation options, from cheerful motels to the more upmarket resorts.

One of the things that surprised me so much about Lake Tahoe was the number of beaches. With crystal clear waters and a mountainous bnackdrop, they are a beautiful place to lie back and relax. Emerald Bay is one of the more famous ones, but there are plenty to choose from.

Each of the main beaches has a carpark with basic toilets and many have a concession renting out paddle boards, kayaks and life jackets. With no tides, the lake is a perfect place for all of the family to have a go at the watersports on offer. And the water is not as cold as you would expect either.

For those who prefer to take it easy, there is, of course, the option to stay dry and just while away the days sun bathing and reading.

When it starts to cool down and evening beckons, there are some great dining options, from old town Americana in Truckee, to beach side dining in South Lake Tahoe, where it was possible to enjoy a glass of wine in a restaurant whilst the children played on the beach.. Heaven....

Yosemite in Photos

Wed, 08 Oct 2014 12:40:00 +0100

Yosemite has to be one of the most scenic National Parks in the USA. With sheer white granite rocks, beautiful alpine lakes and far-reaching views, it is a photographer’s dream. We have selected some of our favourite views to give a taste of what awaits you in one the USA's oldest National Parks.

The iconic half dome, visible from Glacier Point. If you look through binoculars, you can see hikers on thr summit.

Taken in the Ansel Adams wilderness area adjacent to Yosemite Park, this photo gives a sense of the sheer magnitude of the parl and the contrast of the lakes and trees against the stark white rock.

In Yosemite Valley, this photo was taken in the morning after a picnic breakfast on one of the many river beaches. The peace and solitude found eraly in the morning are second to none.

As the sun sets in Yosemite Valley, the last place its golden rays fall are on the Half Dome.

Tunnel View, on the main approch road into the valley. Early park authorities constructed a tunnel that ended at this viewpoint just to give it an extra wow factor. You can see the half dome in the distance, and the contrast of pine forest against the white rock is very stunning.

Our Favourite Family Activities in Yosemite

Wed, 08 Oct 2014 12:01:00 +0100

Located in central California, Yosemite National Park is a breath-takingly beautiful place with vast sheer granite cliffs, lush green meadows and fast flowing waterfalls. Established as a national park in 1864, it has been a Unesco World Heritage site since 1984. Most of its tourism is focussed on the main valley, however the park actually stretches over 1,200 miles. With views to rival the Grand Canyon and a huge amount of ‘must do’s’ in the guidebooks, it can be a little bewildering to know where to start, especially when you are visiting as a family. Children have only so much tolerance for views and sight seeing in National Parks, especially when they are constantly in and out of cars, so based on travel with our own children, we have put together our highlights which combine a mixture of views and activities.

Take in the Views

Even the most cynical of kids can’t fail to be amazed by the views at Yosemite. The key is not to drag them round to each and every view point, but pick out the very best. If you are going to one and only one, then Glacier Point offers fantastic views of the valley and the iconic Half Dome. During peak seasons, there is usually a ranger there with a telescope through which you can see climbers on the rock. We suggest you beat the crowds and go early, take a picnic with you and enjoy your breakfast with a spectacular view.

Go for a Guided Day Walk

Whilst exploring under your own steam can be a lot of fun, we do recommend a day with a guide who can take you off the beaten track and away from the hordes of other visitors. There are some lovely day hikes that you can do, from the Panorama Trail offering stunning views of the valley, or a hike up to one of the many waterfalls in the park. Your guide is very knowledgeable about the geology and history of the area and will go to great efforts to make sure that everyone in the family is involved and enthused about the area.

Hire bikes & explore the valley

The floor of the valley is flat and with a excellent network of bike paths, it is an excellent place to hire bikes and explore on two wheels. We recommend this activity later in the day, when the crowds have gone and it is a bit cooler. Passing over rivers and through meadows and forest you are surrounded by the huge rock formations which can give you an amazing sense of the sheer scale of the place.

Go Wild Swimming

If you are visiting in the summer months, then Yosemite valley can get very hot. With much of the day spent in the car driving between view points, a swim can be very welcome and fortunately there are plenty of opportunities in the valley. River beaches are marked on the map given to you when you first enter Yosemite and parking is easy. The water is surprisingly warm and views are second to none, so make sure that you always have towels and costumes in the car when you head out.

See the Giant Trees at Mariposa Grove

In the south of Yosemite you can view some of the largest and oldest trees in the world. The largest of the Giant Sequoias is the Grizzly Giant. Estimated to be over 2,000 years, this tree is over 64 metres tall. Another draw is the California Tunnel Tree, which you can walk through. There are several walking options in the Grove. We suggest visiting early to make sure you get a parking space and to beat the crowds.

Go Off-grid on a Wilderness trek

If you are one of those people who is truly allergic to other people, then you might want to consider our wilderness trek in the Ansel Adams Wilderness area. Hiking 6 miles into the wild, you will set up a base camp by an alpine lake where you can swim and relax, far far away from anyone else. Your guide will take you on day walks from your camp, scrambling up peaks or to other lakes in the area, but the focus of the trip is really about getting back to nature and away from modern life. Your bags and camping equipment are all transported by mules, so you just have to hike in with your day gear.

Things to do in San Francisco with Kids

Mon, 06 Oct 2014 12:30:00 +0100

1) Cycle the Golden Gate Bridge

One of our favourite days on our trip to California was when we rented bikes to cycle the Golden Gate Bridge. With amazing views of the Bridge and also the city, the ride has a few hills, but nothing that young legs can’t handle. In fact the children absolutely loved having the chance to be active and do something a little different. Bikes of various sizes are available, for adults and children. Younger children can ride in seats, tagalong bikes or trailers. More active families can ride all the way to Sausalito, where it is possible to return to San Francisco by ferry. Those with less energy can ride to the bridge and back.

2) Visit the Sea Lions at Pier 39

The resident sea lions at Pier 39 are something of a San Francisco institution. The Fishermans Wharf area is brimming with buskers and artists and whilst it is a little touristy, many people enjoy wandering along until pier 39 to get a glimpse of the sea lions basking in the afternoon sun and to listen to them barking. Pier 39 itself is full of touristy shops, there is even a shop dedicated to people who are left handed!

3) Ride a Cable Way

Possibly one of the most iconic means of transport in California, if not the world, the cable way is one of the must do attractions in San Francisco. Unsurprisingly, this is a popular (and expensive) way of getting around town, so queues are busy and prices high. We suggest getting up early to ensure you don’t have to wait too long.

4) Ferry Ride across the Bay

Viewing San Francisco from the water is a real treat for adults and children alike and there are plenty of ferry companies to choose from. We recommend a later afternoon cruise so that you can watch the sun setting over the Golden Gate Bridge.

5) Visit Alcatraz

Older children may enjoy a visit to Alcatraz Island, the world-famous prison where Al Capone was famously incarcerated. Audio tours are available, as are guided tours with park rangers. To get there, you need to catch a ferry from Pier 31. In the summer months, it is highly recommended that you book in advance.

Horse Riding Safari at Ants Nest

Mon, 06 Oct 2014 10:32:00 +0100

I’m not really a horse rider, I’ve done a bit of pony trekking in my time, but nothing hugely significant. My daughter Milly, however, like many 7 year olds, fancies herself as something of a future equestrian so when we were offered the chance of trying out some horse riding on our recent trip to South Africa, we jumped at the chance.

After a rather eventful car journey (think pot holes, untarred roads and I will leave the rest to your imagination) we arrived at Ant’s Hill in the Waterberg Mountains north of Johannesburg. We arrived just in time to go for a sun-downer, so our guide grabbed some blankets and whisked us off for a short game drive to a view point to watch the sun setting whilst sipping one of the best gin and tonics of my life. As I sat back and chatted to our guide, my daughter was absolutely transfixed watching a snake like procession of caterpillars on the pathway.

Because Ant’s Hill is primarily a riding destination, there are no predators on site, but an array of over 40 species of animals including giraffe, rhino, buffalo many species of antelope in addition, of course, to the many birds and insects. And this is actually a positive. When you’re in Big Five territory, it is easy to ignore the smaller things, but actually they are just as fascinating.

Over dinner we discussed riding abilities around the table with the other guests. This was what I had been most nervous about. I had had a lesson at home before I left, when my instructor told me he had never seen anyone with quite as little talent for trotting as me (he added that if it was any comfort to me, my daughter was a natural. It wasn’t a help) I nervously admitted to my complete lack of horse riding talent and was immediately put at ease. The guests ranged from very experienced riders to complete beginners and we were divided up accordingly. Milly and I were teamed up with another family and straight after breakfast the next day, we were off. They have 90 Horses on the farm and we were all paired with horses to match us. The other members of the group went for a canter and we walked off at a more sedate pace. Within minutes we had spotted some giraffes grazing amongst the trees and all of the nerves dissipated. We rode on for about 2 hours, spotting rhino, antelope and yet more giraffe along the way. And I was hooked. Arriving back at our accommodation later on, we had lunch and then some time to lounge around the heated pool before retiring to read books from the terrace by our own private pool.

Even now several months later, Milly still remembers the horse riding as one of the highlights of her trip to South Africa. And surprisingly, so do I. After having done many game drives in a Land Rover, it was like a breath of fresh air being in the great outdoors, with no noises apart from the wildlife around us. Ours was only a very brief stay, but I am convinced that if I had been able to stay there for a few days, they might even have coaxed some sort of horsemanship out of me. As for Milly, a pony now features very high on her Christmas list!

Getting the Right Balance on your Family Safari Holiday

Wed, 17 Sep 2014 12:39:00 +0100

The key to the perfect Family safari in Africa is balancing the needs of everyone in the family. Some children can sit for hours in a game drive vehicle day after day, watching game and getting excited about every single animal. Other children will start to get bored and restless after a couple of game drives. We have one of each type, so know how hard it can be. Rather than making the holiday of your life time into an ordeal, here are a few recommendations to help you plan your holiday.

Private Game Drives

By paying extra, you can often have a ranger and game drive vehicle just for your family. This has the benefit that you can go at your own pace and that you don’t feel self-conscious exposing your children to other clients. It also means that the guide’s focus is on pacing the safari for your family, rather than needing to please all of the people in the vehicle.

Choosing the Right Lodge

Some lodges opt for communal dining, others have a more formal approach with rigid dinner times. Some lodges have lounge areas close to the dining room, or even children’s lounges where your children can go and relax whilst you are lingering over a glass of wine and chatting to your fellow guests. If you prefer privacy, then you might prefer to choose somewhere where you can arrange private dining just for your family.

Some lodges have swimming pools, which can be a real bonus for the more active children. For the most part, however, these are not heated, so be aware that if you are travelling to South Africa in their winter, then the pools will be very cold.

When choosing your lodge, it is also worth considering how your child (ren) behaves. If they are naturally quite loud and active then you might want to choose a larger lodge with a good array of children’s activities. If you have older children who are very happy to relax with a book in-between game drives, then you can happily opt for a lodge that is smaller and quieter.

Sleeping arrangements are also crucial and, again, completely dependent on the age of your children. With teenagers, you probably want separate rooms / tents and privacy. Families with younger children will almost certainly all want to share.

Between us, we have visited a large range of lodges across Africa and are very happy to take the time to find the perfect place for you to stay.

Balancing your Activities

The schedule of your stay at a lodge is fairly regimented with early starts and late nights. You tend to have two game drives a day and each one will be around 3 hours long. After a few days of sitting quietly, many children (and adults) will be wanting to be more active, so we recommend combining your safari with something a little different. We have tried and tested all of the below with our 7 year old who was born with lots of energy to burn off, so can confidently say that each one ticks the box for an active adventure which both children and their parents can enjoy.

Horse Riding

If you like horse riding, then you could spend a few days at a horse riding safari centre in the Waterberg area north of Johannesburg. With over 90 horses, there is a horse to match you and you will be taken out for rides according to your ability. Non-riders can have lessons, or if you prefer to stay on the ground, then there are walking options and game drives instead.

Blyde Canyon

If you are a family who likes nature and walking and are going to South Africa, then we suggest our Blyde Canyon experience where you spend a few days with a guide exploring the world’s 3rd largest canyon. Your local guide takes you well off the beaten track to hidden view points, undiscovered caves and swimming holes. The more active and adventurous you are, the more you will get out of it. An absolute highlight.

Laikipia Wilderness Camp

If you want something completely different and wild, then we suggest that you go and stay at Laikipia Wilderness Camp in Kenya where you can combine adventure walks, swim, raft and fish in the river and scramble and climb on nearby outcrops. The owners have three of their own children on camp and will suggest a programme designed to suit you.

Cape Town

If you like a mix of culture and activities, then you should consider combining your family safari with a visit to Cape Town. Our signature Cape Town experience includes a cycle tour of the V&A Waterfront, guided Table Mountain hike and township experience.

Beach Time

If you want to properly kick back and relax after your safari, then the beach is going to be your best option. Depending on the time of year of your visit and where you go on safari, we have some fabulous options in South Africa, Zanzibar, Mauritus, Malawi and Kenya.

Malaria Free Safari Options

Tue, 09 Sep 2014 15:01:00 +0100

We are often approached by couples and families wanting to go on safari in Africa who don’t want to be explosed to the risk of malaria. This rules out much of Africa’s mainstream family safari destinations, with the exception of South Africa, where there are plenty of malaria-free safari options offering excellent game viewing experiences. Of course, nowhere is entirely risk-free and no matter where you travel to, you should always take precautions against being bitten and seek medical advice before you travel. This NHS website offers some useful guidance and also maps of the affected areas:

Here are some of our favourite tried and tested malaria-free game reserves in South Africa:

Madikwe Game Reserve

Located in the North West of South Africa close to the border with Botswana, Madikwe is an excellent malaria-free safari destination for families. Covering over 75,000 hectares, Madikwe is home to over 66 animal species, including the Big 5, and is home to the elusive wild dog, rarely spotted in Southern Africa. Whilst it is still nowhere near as well-known as Kruger, Madikwe has become known as a child-friendly game reserve and several of the lodges specialise in accommodation families and actively welcome younger guests. No day visitors or self-drivers are allowed into the reserve, so the reserve does not get too congested. Madikwe is an easy 4-5 hour drive from Johannesburg, or a short flight from Johannesburg. Many people combine Madikwe with a Garden Route holiday, or with Waterberg (see below) Our favourite accommodation options in Madikwe are Jaci’s Lodge and Impodimo, both of which offer luxurious accommodation in stunning surroundings.

At Madikwe, we were lucky enough to spot a pack of African Wild dogs, a rare sight.

Recommended Itineraries featuring Madikwe:

Eastern Cape

Lying to the East of the Garden Route are a number of malaria-free game reserves, including Addo National Park, as well as several private options. At 180,000 hectare, Addo is certainly the area’s largest game park and is a draw card on account of its large elephant population. However, self-drivers are also allowed in the park, so it can become congested. Private concessions, such as Riverbend Lodge (14,000 ha) and Amakhala (7,000 ha) offer upmarket safari options with exclusive lodges and private game drives. The landscape here is fynbos and lower lying grasslands which is different to the denser bush to be found up in other safari destinations in South Africa. However, if you are travelling with younger children this can be an advantage as game is easier to spot. Most people combine the Eastern Cape game lodges with a Garden Route holiday.

Stopping for early morning refreshments at Riverbend

Waterberg

Two and a half hours to the north of Johannesburg lie the Waterberg mountains, a stunning biosphere home to a plethora of flora and fauna. There are several large-scale land owners in the area who farm, but there is also the stunning Ant’s Hill who specialise in horse riding safaris. Because of their focus on riding, they don’t have predators, so not quite the Big 5, but they do have giraffe, rhino, buffalo and over 40 species of game. If you are not an avid horse rider, it doesn’t matter, as there are horses to suit all abilities. For resolute non-riders, game drives and bush walks are also on offer. Accommodation is in boutique bush cottages with outstanding views. Some people visit Waterberg in isolation, others choose to combine it with Madikwe so they can have a mixture of activities and more traditional safaris. Waterberg is an easy drive from Johannesburg and about 4 – 5 hours from Madikwe.

Spotting a rhino on horseback was a real highlight of our trip

Recommended Itineraries featuring Waterberg:

Hluhluwe, Kwa Zulu Natal

Located in the East of the country in Kwa Zulu Natal, Hluhluwe is South Africa's oldest National Park and is surrounded by several superb private concessions, including Thanda and Phinda. The region hosts big 5 as well as many other species of flora and fauna. The terrain is hilly, with mountains forming an pretty backdrop to the views. Phinda is the best option but also the most expensiv. Thanda has fantastic family suites with private plunge pool and Rhino River Lodge and Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge both offer arguably the best value safari experience in Africa. Safari in this region combines well with time on the Coast, exploring the iSimangaliso wetlands, Kosi Bay and the Drakensberg Mountains.

Although technically a low-risk malaria area rather than malaria free. The official advice is to practice bite avoidance, and anti-malarials are not usually recommended.

Each villa has a private heated plunge pool with gorgeous views.

Recommended Itineraries in Hluhluwe are:

Which Kruger Game Reserve Should I stay in?

Tue, 08 Jul 2014 15:15:00 +0100

Kruger National Park is South Africa's largest national park and one of Africa's largest game reserves. The size of Wales, it is home to 147 large mammal species, which makes it the most diverse reserve in Africa. Many of the best safari camps in the area are in private conservancies adjoining the National Park, such as Sabi Sands, Mala Mala and Timbavati (read more about the pros and cons of the different Kruger reserves). Wildlife moves freely between the reserves and the National Park, the big advantage of the private reserves is the feeling of wilderness (with very few other visitors and a handful of superb small discrete camps).

SABI SANDS

Size: 65,000 hectares
Kruger Boundary: Unfenced to Kruger
Access: Many people opt for private flights direct into Sabi Sands. Self-drive can be hairy as the roads are not good, particularly for the northern lodges (including Chitwa).
Our Verdict: The best known and original private game reserve in the Kruger area and the place to go if you want exclusive accommodation (which comes at a price). Whilst the reserve is unfenced, not all lodges give each other traversing rights, so vehicles can't always go outside of their patch. That said, it is known to be the premier safari destination with perhaps the best game viewing potential, especially good for leopards.

TIMBAVATI

Size: 53,000 hectares
Kruger Boundary: Unfenced to Kruger
Access: 1 hour drive from Hoedspruit along good roads (some unsealed)
Our Verdict: A slightly less well-known reserve, but as a consequence the lodges are not as expensive. As anywhere, game viewing is always down to chance, but with the diversity of vegetation (a good mix of lowveld grasses and bushes) chances of spotting the big 5 are good. There is also a resident pride of the very rarely seen white lion which is currently based in the Timbavati reserve. There are some excellent options for couples and families alike.

THORNYBUSH

Size: 14,000 hectares
Kruger Boundary: Adjacent to Kruger, Fenced
Access: 1 hour drive from Hoedspruit airport along good roads (some unsealed)
Our Verdict: A smaller reserve with slick (if a little commercial) lodges with great family friendly accommodation. The reserve is small, so not quite the wild feel of Timbavati, but it does heighten the likelihood of spotting wildlife. Good option for younger / lively families who won't feel too self-conscious if the children splash around in the pool.

MAKALALI

Size: 24,500 hectares
Kruger Boundary: Not attached to Kruger
Access: 1 hour drive from Hoedspruit airport along good roads (some unsealed)
Our Verdict: This is not a mainstream reserve, mainly made up of private camps. Game viewing is good. There are only 2 commercial lodges operating here, so it is much less commercial - this can mean that there is less intense radio contact, which in turn can mean less guaranteed sightings.

The Best Kruger Safari Camps for Families

Tue, 08 Jul 2014 12:03:00 +0100

You've decided to take your family on safari in the Kruger area, but the question is where to stay. There are hundreds of lodges to choose from, some of which don't accept children at all. Then there is the question of whether they offer child friendly sleeping arrangements and activities and whether you should stay in a tent or a suite. To ease your planning, we have put together a list of our favourite family friendly lodges in the Kruger area, which we have tried and tested with one of our own children. It is very important to take the time to consider your budget, age of your children and familly dynamic carefully when choosing your Kruger safari lodge, please don't hesitate to get in touch to discuss your needs further.

Accommodation

Some safari lodges are tent based, others are in suites. Suites tend to be more spacious, whilst tents can give a more traditional safari feel, taking you closer to nature. It is usually possible to fit 1 or 2 small children in a tent with you, but older children will require their own tent. As tents are usually spaced apart, you will need to assess how you feel about this as a family. If you opt for a suite, you can all sleep in one room together, or you can opt for inter-connecting rooms. This is a more expensive option, but it does give you more privacy.

Activities

As a rule, under 6's are not permitted on game drives and under 16's are not allowed on bush walks outside of the camp. Game drives are usually at dawn and dusk and in between these hours, guests normally relax, swim and snooze in the sun. Some lodges put on activities for children during these times, to give parents some down time. These activities are not compulsary. Usually they consist of activities such as lodge based bush walks, treasure hunts and baking.

Our Top Picks

Tanda Tula

Accommodation: 12 tents

Family Sleeping arrangements: 1 larger tent for families to share, everyone would be all in the same room together.

Age Limit: No children under 8

Who is it for? More adventurous families looking for a wilder experience. Bush breakfasts are a real highlight after a game drive, but the layout and atmosphere is better suited to families with older children. This is not somewhere where you could want let your children make a lot of noise splashing in a pool.

Our 7 year old's verdict: The lodge manager very kindly allowed our 7 year old, Milly, to stay at the camp for a night. She thought that the chicken schnitzel that the chef prepared especially for her was the best food of the trip. The bush breakfast was also a bonus.

Simbavati River Lodge

Accommodation: 8 tents & 3 family chalets

Family Sleeping Arrangements: The family chalets offer fantastic accommodation with a large master bedroom and adjoining twin bedroom. Not entirely private, as the door is a curtain, it does give evreryone more space and privacy.

Age Limit: All ages welcome. Over 6's permitted on game drives.

Who is it for? Families of all ages. This is not a super luxurious option, but the accommodation, jungle gym, kids playroom and pool make it particularly good for the under 12's.

Our 7 year old's verdict: Milly absolutely loved the jungle gym and was so pleased to be able to climb and play after several days of game drives. She found the communal dining less interesting, but was very happy to finish her dinner and read her book on the lounge sofas nearby. We both loved having a bit more space in the bedroom!

Thornybush Waterside

Accommodation: 20 rooms

Family Sleeping Arrangements: Additional beds in a room are possible. Some rooms are inter-connecting, however families would have to pay for two rooms.

Age Limit: All ages welcome. Over 6's permitted on game drives.

Who is it for? This is a larger lodge, but very welcoming to children with game drive goody bags and snacks provided, as well as a kids programme. As there are more people staying here and children are made welcome, you won't feel self-conscious if your children are making a splash in the pool. A great choice for under 12's.

Our 7 year old's verdict: Milly loved her kid's backpack and was extremely pleased to be given sweets to eat during the game drives (this was the only place that did this for us.)

Chitwa Chitwa

Accommodation: 6 luxurious suites, 2 family suites.

Family Sleeping Arrangements: Families with under 12's can all share one of the spacious suites, with 2 extra beds provided in the lounge area. Families with older children can go for the family suite, with inter-connecting suites.

Age Limit: All ages welcome. Over 6's permitted on game drives.

Who is it for? Luxurious accommodation in Sabi Sands for those wanting an exclusive safari experience. A very special place, but expensive. Families are likely to be sharing their game vehicles and communal areas with honeymooners, so raucous or lively children should probably avoid it here.

Our 7 year old's verdict: Milly loved sitting on our deck and watching the hippos in the water. She loved the pool (although it was a bit cold) and really enjoyed the cake at afternoon tea.

How to make safaris fun. By Alex (age 8)

Thu, 03 Jul 2014 15:21:00 +0100

Children are usually unanimously wowed by their initial experience on safari. However once the initial amazement is replaced by the new norm of seeing elephants and lions in the wild, we have found that interest levels can start to wane. It is very difficult to predict, we have one daughter who simply can’t get enough game drives in her life, if she had her way she’d have a morning and afternoon game drive every day of her life, whilst her sister tends to lose interest after a couple of drives.

The below was written by Alex, aged 8, who definitely falls into the latter camp. In one particularly brutal research trip, we stayed at 6 different camps in the Mara in 6 days with game drives in each. The hot chocolate and cookies worked wonders getting her up out of bed for early morning game drives, but something else was needed to keep her interested during the drives. Here are Alex's tips on keeping things interesting. I've transcribed Alex's original article (see left), I’m sure she won’t mind that I corrected some spellings…

5 Tips on how to make safaris fun, by Alex (aged 8)

Sometimes safaris get a bit boring, so here are 5 tips on how to make them fun!

1. Tallying – make a tally of all the animals you see. For ages 6+

2. Sketching – draw a sketch of each animal you see. Ages 3+

3. Ask questions about each different animal that you see. Ages 3+

4. Photos – take photos of all the animals. Age 8+

5. Spot and identify – play a game where you get points for each animal that you spot and identify. You make up the rules as you go along.! Ages 4+

Alex taking a tally on safari in Mara North Conservancy

Alex's Tally and Bar Chart

Tourdust Trek Gradings

Wed, 02 Jul 2014 15:42:00 +0100

When choosing your trek it’s vital to make sure you select a route that matches your abilities. To help you chose we have graded all of our treks as being either gentle, moderate, challenging or demanding. To see which category your chosen trek falls into take a look at the “Is it for me” tab on the relevant trek page.

If you’re still unsure or would like to further information please don’t hesitate to give us a call, we’ll connect you with a member of the team who has trekked in the area you’re interested in. Based on their experience they'll talk you though the route and give you the low down on what to expect. If it seems like the trek isn't quite right for you they'll suggest alternative options or, if possible, create a tailor made experience.

GENTLE TREKS
For our gentle treks you just need to be reasonably fit and healthy and ready to enjoy a day out in the mountains. Before setting off you will discuss the route with your guide to ensure that the trek will be enjoyable and manageable for your fitness level. Some or all of the following conditions may apply:

- Typical trek length: Typically 2-5hrs per day

- Typical conditions underfoot: Mostly well-worn tracks

- Typical Altitude: Usually less than 2,500m. Most people will feel no real effects at this height although you may find you become short of breath quicker than usual when walking.

- Flexibility: There are usually opportunities to shorten or lengthen the trek length on the day

MODERATE TREKS
Our moderate treks are perfect for those who are reasonably fit, healthy and are used to walking regularly (medium to long walks). You can expect some long days of walking and some steep ascents but these are accomplishable and will give you a great sense of achievement. Some or all of the following conditions may apply:

- Typical trek length: Typically 4-6 hrs walking per day

- Typical conditions underfoot: Mostly well-worn tracks. Some terrain tricky underfoot, loose scree and walking through fallen rock.

- Typical Altitude: Usually less than 3,000m. Most people will feel no really effects at this height although you may find you become short of breath quicker than usual when walking.

- Flexibility: There are usually opportunities to shorten / lengthen trek length on the day

CHALLENGING TREKS
Our challenging treks require a good level of participant health, fitness and determination. These treks are for those who are already used to trekking for successive days and are not likely to be put off by overnighting in locations with basic facilities. Many of our challenging treks include some time at altitude (3000m +). Some or all of the following conditions may apply:

- Typical trek length: Typically 4-9 hrs walking per day with occasional longer days (10-12h)

- Typical conditions underfoot: Uses worn paths and occasional dirt roads. Terrain often tricky underfoot, loose scree and walking through fallen rock. Steep slopes and traverses.

- Typical Altitude: Treks go above 3,000m. Head-aches, sickness, loss of appetite and stomach upsets are possible. All symptoms should be reported and updated to your guide immediately. Drink lots of water and take it easy.

- Flexibility: Although short-cuts may be available, there may not always be opportunities to shorten walking days

DEMANDING TREKS
Our hardest treks require participants to be fit, healthy and very determined, used to strenuous mountain days and have prior (and similar) mountaineering experience. Technical knowledge is sometimes a prerequisite. Many of our challenging treks include some time at altitude (3000m +) and / or traverses with limited alternative options if you are struggling with the trek. Some or all of the following conditions may apply:

- Typical trek length: Long days of 6 - 9 hrs walking. Occasional longer days (10-12h)

- Typical conditions underfoot: Uses worn paths, off-path and occasional dirt roads. Terrain often tricky underfoot, loose scree and walking through fallen rock. Steep slopes and traverses. In some cases, steep snow and ice requiring crampons and ice axes

- Flexibility: Some treks may be traverses with limited alternative options

How safe is Kenya?

Wed, 11 Jun 2014 17:07:00 +0100

I last visited Kenya earlier this year with my oldest daughter (8 years old) for company. It is hard to underestimate the weight of responsibility in leaving the majority of your family at home, whilst you take off to a far off corner of the world with one of your beloved children. It is not something I have ever taken lightly and is something I consider deeply every-time I travel with my children, whether it be to Kenya, Morocco, South Africa or the United States. In this instance, I even got the call from my own mother, asking what I thought I was doing taking her grand-daughter to Kenya? I know Kenya well and have a good feel for the security situation. But being asked outright by my mother, made me step back and re-assess.

It is worth putting security fears into context and there is no better way to do that than with numbers; Over 1 million tourists visit Kenya every year, of which around 100,000 are British. And of course, significant number of British and Amemrican expats live in Kenya, we have good friends with children the same age as ours who live, work and send their young children off to school in Kenya in neatly pressed uniforms – life continues as normal for these families. You can never say never, but there are very good reasons why Kenya remains the world's favourite safari destination and these reasons remain, the Masai Mara is still magnificent (and the migration is there early this year), the Laikipia region offers (in my opinion) the best all round wilderness safari experience in Africa and Mount Kenya is Africa's finest Mountain (yes it is a superior trek to Kilimanjaro).

After my mother’s call, I sat down with my wife, discussed the risks as we saw them and came to a decision. With minimal time in Nairobi and the majority of the trip spent on safari in remote luxury wilderness locations and pretty much permanently in the care of a guide, driver or camp, we felt the risk was no greater than taking a long car journey down the M4 and M5 to Devon (a fact which was born out when my wife on that very same journey whilst I was in Kenya, saw a car spin out of control on the M4 at 70mph in heavy rain).

The fact remains that even during the terrible election troubles in 2007, no tourists were hurt and this pays testament to the extent to which the conservation areas, private reserves and National Parks that make Kenya the world's most popular safari destination are largely insulated from urban problems. Just as visitors to South Africa's Kruger National Park and Garden Route are largely insulated from the high crime rates prevalent in urban areas in Johannesburg and Cape Town and foreign tourists who visit London and Oxford are largely insulated from the inner City crime, muggings and gangs of those Cities.

As it turned out, my daughter and I had the most incredible experience, as a closet Northerner, I’m not naturally given to over-enthusiasm, but I can safely say that some of the new camps we visited the Laikipia area of North Kenya are now safely amongst some of my favourite places in the world (and I get around a lot in my line of work). We never felt remotely unsafe (well, except for take-off and landing, which still scares me witless). As ever in Kenya we had a warmer, friendlier and more enthusiastic welcome than I've experienced anywhere else in the world. At the end of the day, we all face risks when we travel and we have to ask ourselves, what life do we want to live? Do we want to minimise risk and never explore beyond our own backyard or do we want to see the world. I choose the latter, but there is no shame in choosing the former, it is a deeply personal decision.

For all these reasons we continue to sell Kenya and recommend it as a safari destination for families and couples alike. There can never be absolutes when it comes to security in any part of the world, but we continue to recommend our clients visit the National Parks and private conservancies in the Masai Mara and Northern regions around Mount Kenya and Laikipia.

If you are thinking of travelling to Kenya, please get in touch for a chat with one of our experts on +44 020 3291 2907 or via email.

Travelling with children in Morocco: Food

Fri, 06 Dec 2013 17:20:00 +0000

On first glance, food in Morocco can feel like quite a challenge for young stomachs. Prolific use of spices such as cumin, strange and unfamiliar smells can be a worry for children already in a slightly different environment. However, Morocco is a very child friendly place and hidden in the menus are plenty of foods and tastes that young stomachs will enjoy. If you have time before you go away, it might be worth introducing some of the flavours and textures at home, so that your children have had a chance to try them in a familiar environment. Experience shows that whilst children may resist and complain about different food when they are away, when they are truly hungry they will eat and it can be very gratifying watching your child who won’t eat tomatoes at home, eating them on holiday because they are the only ‘normal’ things being served up.

If you are travelling during Ramadan, then please remember that most locally run restaurants and cafes will be closed during the day time. This does not apply to tourist restaurants and hotels, where it will be business as usual.

Breakfast

Breakfasts served in the riads and hotels are generally of the international variety and one of the easiest meals to enjoy with children. Children are typically served hot / cold cocoa whilst adults enjoy tea or coffee. Orange juice is also served – most usually the freshly squeezed variety, with ‘bits.’ To eat, you normally have breads and jams, often accompanied by patisseries and / or eggs. The type of breakfast will vary from place to place, but if your children are struggling with the exotic jams, you can easily get hold of strawberry jam or nutella in the local shops.

Lunch

If you are away from the city, then a good value option is to buy a picnic. Bread is available in nearly all village shops as are staples such as cans of tuna and seasonal vegetables and crisps. If you are eating in a café. Omelettes are widely available and a cheap lunchtime meal. They come plain, with tomatoes or with cheese (the Laughing Cow variety)

Dinner

Eating out with children in Morocco is very easy. Children are welcome almost everywhere, the exception being some of the high end tourist restaurants. For the most part, children’s meals are not widely available, but it is entirely acceptable to order a dish to share. In larger towns, you will find retsuarnats and cafes serving more recognisable fare; pizza, pasta and ice cream. If pasta isn’t advertised on the menu and you are struggling to find something that your child will eat, you can always ask if they have any.

One of the staples of Moroccan cuisine is tagine, a type of stew made with beef, chicken, lamb or fish with seasonal vegetables. This is remarkably similar to a casserole or stew and young children tend to particularly enjoy the chicken version, served in a lemon and olive sauce. Tested by one of the world’s fussiest 5 year old eaters, this dish has been proclaimed ‘normal’ - high praise indeed.

Other easy to come by dishes include chicken and chips and brochettes (grilled kebabs) again served with chips. Most restaurants and cafes have ketchup, so this is often a good back up meal for nervous eaters. Cous cous is another popular option for some children. This is usually served with a gravy like sauce and seasonal vegetables. Waiting staff will often be happy to serve the sauce separately for children. All meals are served with bread so, at the very least, children can fill up on this.

A Guide to Grand Canyon Hiking

Thu, 24 Oct 2013 10:22:00 +0100

There is no substitute for exploring the Grand Canyon on foot. The majority of tourists stay firmly on the rim on short walks or on scenic drives. With the thousands of other tourists, it is difficult to get a sense for any solitude and take it in. Hiking below the rim allows you to quickly get off the beaten track and get a sense for this staggering scenery.

Hiking with Children

There is no reason why children can’t enjoy hiking in the Grand Canyon and with good planning, then it can be an adventure to remember for the whole family. For children aged 8+, we suggest the Havasu Falls trek, which is located outside of the Grand Canyon National Park, in Grand Canyon West in the Havasupai Indian Reservation. This trek takes you to some amazing waterfalls with lots of natural pools, so there are opportunities for fun and swimming as well as walking. These trips include camping and are mule supported so you don’t need to carry your own kit.

If you don’t like the idea of over-nighting, then you might like to consider the option of day hikes. Your guide will assess the ability of everyone in your family and will then suggest a hike based on your ability. Popular options include South Kaibab to Cedar Ridge, the Hermit Trail to Dripping Spring and Grandview trail to Horseshoe Mesa.

Mule-supported treks

If you want a multi-day trek without the hassle of having to carry your own kit, then a mule-supported trek is the best option for you. Our favourite of these hikes is the 3 Day Bright Angel loop which takes you to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, spending the night camping at Phantom Ranch, on the banks of the Colorado River. Alternatively, the Havasu Falls trip (3 days) is also mule assisted.

Backpacking treks

Backpacking in the back country allows you to get well and truly off the beaten track, but does mean that you will need to carry all of your gear with you. These trips require a permit, so will need to some advance planning. The ultimate in backpacking in the Grand Canyon is the rim to rim trip. Lasting 4 days, this is one of the most iconic trips in the Granmd Canyon and involves trekking from the North to the South Rim, crossing the Colorado River at the bottom. This is one of the most popular backpacking trip in the area.

USA Family Holidays FAQs

Thu, 24 Oct 2013 10:10:00 +0100

What is different about your holidays in the USA?

In a nutshell: Handpicked activities and accommodation and a balance of independent vs guided

How do we get there?

You can get direct flights from the UK to the USA. Some of the most competitive fares are from London to Las Vegas, but you can also fly to Denver, Phoenix and Los Angeles direct. Flight times to Las Vegas are approximately 10 ½ hours. For this reason, coupled with the time difference, we strongly suggest you try to get direct flights as having to go via another gateway airport adds time and pain to the journey, especially on your outbound flights. In the summer months of July & August, expect to pay from £850 for return flights to Las Vegas. Cheaper deals are available for Easter and October half terms. Experience shows that it pays to book ahead with trans-Atlantic flights, as prices are prone to increase closer to the departure date.

We are ATOL bonded and can happily help with your flight booking.

Do we need visas?

Once you arrive in the US, you will need to queue for immigration. You will need to do this even if you are in transit. You will need to provide finger prints and eye scans (although children won’t need these.) It is well worth having extra treats to hand out to tired children as the queues are long.

How much will it cost?

Our USA family holidays start from £850 per person, based on a family of four travelling together. This price covers a hire car, all accommodation and activities as per the itineraries. On top of that, you will need to budget for flights, which are from £850 in the summer holidays, closer to £600 for Easter and October half term. Once there, you will need to budget for tips, entrance fees, petrol and food - expect to spend from $150 per day, although this price will depend wildly on where you eat and viist.

How long do I need?

We have two and three week itineraries for you to choose from. If you have three weeks, then you can go at a slightly gentler pace and see most of the highlights of the area. Two weeks will not be enough time to see everything, so we have put together a range of itineraries for you to choose from.

What is it like travelling in the USA with children?

The USA is a very family friendly destination to visit with children. The entire tourism industry is set up to deal with families; from the hotels to restaurants and national parks. The pitfalls are the long car journeys and the fact that children don’t always find admiring views and Mother Nature as fascinating as adults. This is why we have designed our itineraries to have a mixture of active and adventurous pursuits, as well as self-guided aspects, to ensure that a balance is struck on your holiday.

When is the best time to go?

The National Parks tend to be busier around the public holidays and school holidays (June / July)

What is the accommodation like?

Accommodation for families is usually in larger hotels which we have chosen for the facilities and location. Our experience tells us that travelling with children in the heat of the desert makes a swimming pool a necessity, especially after a long drive. Room options are usually a choice between inter-connecting rooms or sharing two large beds (which is what most domestic travellers choose to do) Many, but not all, hotel rooms have tea & coffee making facilities, wifi and a tv as a standard. Some may also have a fridge and microwave. Breakfast is not offered as a standard, although is included in some places.

Are township tours and Robben Island suitable for families?

Thu, 24 Oct 2013 07:13:00 +0100

Generally speaking, most visitors consider two activities, visiting Robben Island and a township. Where Robben Island gives insight into the political struggles of the past, a visit to a township gives insight into the economic realities of the present.

THOUGHTS ON VISITING ROBBEN ISLAND WITH CHILDREN
Robben Island is the infamous windswept Island just offshore from Cape Town that held Nelson Mandela and other anti-apartheid leaders captive for almost 20 years. The Island became a focal point for international resistance to apartheid and is now a powerful symbol of freedom. Tours last 3 and a half hours in total including a 30 minute ferry from the V&A Waterfront . On the Island itself you are guided by former inmates of the prison through the notorious B-section (which held Mandela), you’ll see exhibitions that tell the stories of inmates and take a trip around the Island by bus. There are no age restrictions as such, but given the captive and guided nature of the experience (three and a half hours in total) it is arguably most suitable for families with teenagers or ‘interested’ under 12s. Tickets need to be bought in advance and you will need to allow half a day for the experience.

THOUGHTS ON VISITING TOWNSHIPS WITH CHILDREN
Safety is undoubtedly less of an issue than you would think, however a visit to a township should not be considered lightly. Some are fantastic uplifting projects, others are exploitative tourism at their worst. Done right, you’ll be guided by a local from the township, you’ll learn about the history and struggles of the people and get to participate in some inspiring projects. Like anything in life, no two townships are the same, some are absolute no go areas, some have developed well and are safe for visitors.

With children involved, it is important to have a focal activity. Two of our favourite projects meet both of these briefs:

Township Tour by Bike in Masiphumelele: I took my 6 year old daughter to Masiphumelele and whilst it wasn’t an unqualified success (at least for her), I’m glad we did it. Cycling through the township is a wonderfully relaxed way to explore the township and an excellent way to break down barriers with the locals. We stopped to visit a couple of community projects including a nursery and library, met a local spirit healer and enjoyed a very local lunch of pap and chicken at Nonny’s superb road-side café. Whilst the conditions in the formal township area (where the government has installed infrastructure) were good, as soon as we abandoned the bikes and walked into the informal township (where new arrivals to the township live), the sights of families washing in the squalid waste water and flooded shacks constructed from little more than card-board in places was hard to stomach and a real eye opener. Still there was a very real sense of order, progress and pride. What’s more, the meeting of nationalities was intriguing. The Somalis tend to keep shop (and are welcomed by locals thanks to their low prices) whilst the Nigerians are apparently the best barbers. Both myself and my daughter found the hardest part of the experience the visit to the nursery, where we were both met by a universal cry of teech-ah and were mobbed by scores of kids. Being grabbed and climbed upon by scores of kids was not surprisingly intimidating for the 6yo. From my perspective, I felt uncomfortable intruding into these children’s class rooms and worried about the values it might teach the children at such a young age. Approximately 80% of the cost of the tour goes into the community and the tour is run in partnership with the Bicycle Empowerment Network (BEN) which imports and renovates used bicycles and trains locals in their maintenance. We drove our hire car to Masipumelele and met our guide, Zwai, in the car park of a supermarket in a more gentrified area near-by. Masipumelele is well located to then head on to Boulders Beach and Cape Point.

Township Cooking Tour: Eating and learning about local foods is one of the best ways to get a feel for a local culture, but you’ll be lucky to spot local staples such as Pap, chakalaka, samp and African stew on the tourist route. The class is based in a cooking school that is teaching the catering trade to locals in the townships with a remarkable success rate in terms of end employment. Although ostensibly an African cooking class, the cooking part is really just a great opportunity for you to taste the local food and to spend some time meeting the local people. This African cooking class tends to start with an introductory low-down on African cuisine and culture accompanied by a refreshing glass of homemade ginger beer. The class itself involves learning to cook dishes like pap, chakalaka, samp and African stew. For lunch, the dishes are served up in the restaurant - a building crafted from old shipping containers. Cooking classes are typically small scale affairs arranged for individual groups so can be tailored to suit families very easily. On the way to the cooking school we recommend visiting the District 6 museum to get an insight into the history of the forced removal of blacks from their communities.

When to Go - Garden Route

Wed, 23 Oct 2013 20:28:00 +0100

Broadly speaking, the Southern, Eastern and Western Cape of South Africa enjoys a mild Mediterranean climate in reverse order to that found in the Northern Hemisphere. Whilst the regions spring and autumn are our favourite times to visit (Sep, Oct, March, April & May), visits during their winter (June – August) are not to be ruled out.

Spring (September to October)

Spring time is a lovely time of year to visit the Garden Route, temperatures are around 15 -25 Celsius, it is usually relatively dry (with only moderate chances of rain) and the Fynbos flowers are blooming. October Half Term is one of the best times of year for a family to visit the Cape. The weather is improving but not too hot and there is a good chance of seeing the spectacular whales off the Coast of Hermanus and around (the whale season runs July – October).

Summer (November to February)

The summer months are generally dry and hot with day time temperatures of 25-35 Celsius and plenty of sunshine (10.5hrs a day on average). The Christmas Holidays may offer the best weather but are generally best avoided as the area gets over-run with domestic tourists and prices are vastly inflated. February Half Term is the most popular time of the year for British families to visit South Africa, with the advantage of great weather without the peak crowds of Christmas / New Year.

Autumn (March - May)

Autumn is also one of the best times of year to visit the region. If you can put up with cooler overnight temperatures, you’ll find the country much quieter with very pleasant warm days in the gentle autumn sunshine. Easter Holidays and May Half Term are therefore perfect times to visit South Africa.

Winter (June – September)

The winter months are the least favourable time of year to visit the Garden Route from the perspective of the weather. However, low season rates, generally mild sunny days and the appeal of seeing the Southern Right Whale migration makes the Cape & Garden Route an appealing destination for the UK summer holidays. The big drawback is the strong chance of blustery wet conditions around Cape Town and the winelands. During these months, we suggest visiting Cape Town and the Hermanus area (for the whales) and then heading to the Kruger or malaria-free Madikwe for your safari and dose of sunshine. You will still have cold mornings and evenings, but you can expect dry, sunny days in these areas. In both othe Kruger and Madikwe, the winter is an excellent time of year to on safari as the low levels of vegetation make game sightings a much easier.

Tourdust’s Garden Route – Five essential Garden Route experiences

Wed, 23 Oct 2013 15:19:00 +0100

What are the five essential experiences on the Garden Route? We pin our flag to the mast and explore the five essential experiences that, in our opinion, define the Garden Route.

#1 GETTING AWAY FROM THE CROWDS ON TABLE MOUNTAIN
Cape Town is a City where mountains meet City and Sea. The City spreads from the charming V&A Waterfront up to the flanks of Table Mountain and there is no better place to see all it than from atop Table mountain amidst the lush fynbos. Most tourists venture no more than 5 minutes from the Cableway, but there is plenty of space to take in the view in solitude whether climbing Table Mountain or just enjoying the 2 hour loop from the Cableway station at the top. If you are looking for something a little more strenuous, then we suggest spending up to 3 days hiking and camping in the Table Mountain National Park.

#2 EXPLORING THE FYNBOS, MOUNTAINS & WILD COAST OF THE WESTERN CAPE
Fynbos describes the predominant vegetation in this area and describes a diverse ecosystem of small leaved bushes. The diversity is fascinating but the real reason we recommend time amongst the fynbos is that it creates an incredibly vibrant vista and is found in some incredible locations. None more dramatic than amidst the mountains and Coast-line of the Western Cape around Hermanus, Grootbos and De Kelders. This is a landscape where a single view can take in sweeping mountains, dramatic coast-lines and the ocean. From June – October the area becomes the best land based whale watching location in the world, but the region is worth a visit year-round.

#3 TREKKING THE COASTAL PATHS IN TSITSIKAMMA NATIONAL PARK
A wild, wild coast-line. Easily our highlight of the Garden Route area. Densely forested mountains rise from the ocean, rivers carve deep clefts in the cliffs and dolphins frolic in the surf. This is absolutely not sun-beds and cocktails territory! This is a coast-line that begs to be walked. The Otter Trail is arguably the best Coastal walk in the world, but is an option only for those who book well in advance and are willing to carry their own gear (camping equipment and all). The Dolphin Trail is a fantastic alternative – a 3 day supported trek staying at comfortable lodges and highly recommended. For gentler options, the waterfall trail is a stunning short walk from Storms River Rest Camp that allows hikers to scramble the rocks as the path hugs the ocean to a well-deserved swim in the splash pool of the afore-mentioned waterfall.

#4 VIEWING THE WILDLIFE OF THE EASTERN CAPE
Safari snobs will claim the Garden Route has nothing to match the marvel of Kruger NP or the Masai Mara, but the area offers some excellent small private reserves and superb variety of wildlife. The area is perfect for those who don’t want the sole focus of their trip to be safari. A short 2 day safari extension to your Garden Route trip is the perfect safari taster that doesn't need to blow your budget. After all, in how many places can you combine penguins (Boulders Beach in Cape Town), Whales and Dolphins (Whale Coast), Meerkat and Ostrich (Oudtshoorn) and traditional big five safari (Eastern Cape and Garden Route Game Reserves). Read our guide to our favourite Eastern Cape and Garden Route Safari Lodges and Camps for families – we’ve tested the majority of them with our own children!

#5 INDULGING & RELAXING IN THE CAPE WINELANDS
A foodies' nirvana set amidst drop dead gorgeous mountain landscapes, the Cape's vineyards are the ultimate treat for both the eyes and the taste buds. The experts at the best estates are able to reel off generations of knowledge about their finest vintages and you can spend time exploring the vineyards and then tasting some of their finest wines. For children and on-wine drinkers, there are plenty of gourmet treats available from home made chocolate to local artisanal produce. You can experience the winelands either by staying at one of the estates and exploring independently, or on a guided tour from Cape Town.

AND SOME OF THOSE WE FEEL ARE OVER-RATED...
- The Garden Route officially covers the area of Coast around Mossel Bay, Knysna and Plettenberg Bay. It is in our opinion over developed and over-rated. We only usually recommend Knysna and Plettenberg Bay if you are dead-set on getting some quality beach time in. Our preference though is to use a single base on the fringes of the Garden Route in the Crags Area (home to a lovely set of very independent and unique accommodation options including Hog Hollow, The Kurland, Emily Moon River Lodge and Moonshine on Whiskey Creek). Here you are well located for the highlight of the Garden Route, Tsitsikamma National Park and it is easy too to dive into the visitor attractions of Knysna and Plett.

- Hermanus has traditionally been associated with the magnificent whale watching opportunities of the Western Cape. Whilst in season it does provide a magnificent land base for whale watching it is a little built up for our tastes. Head instead for Grootbos, De Kelders Reserve and De Hoop Reserve for equal if not superior whale watching and a sense of coastal wilderness that you just won’t get in Hermanus.

White Water Rafting in Moab

Tue, 22 Oct 2013 15:57:00 +0100

Quite the adventure hub, Moab is the perfect base for a white water rafting trip, with tours from 1 day to a week to choose from. If you have time, try to go for at least 2 days, as there is quite simply nothing like camping on a deserted river beach. The trip you choose depends mainly on the ages of your children, as younger children are not allowed to go on the faster rapids. Whilst life jackets are provided and should be worn at all times when on the boats and around the water, it is advisable that your child is able to swim to take part in a rafting trip.

5 – 10 year olds

The under 10’s are not old enough to go on the wilder rapids, so for this age group, there are two available rafting options:

2 Day / 1 Night Colorado River Float trip (grade I – II rapids depending on water levels)

A gentle two day float trip on the Colorado River close to Moab, passing through gentle rapids. In the late afternoon, you will set up camp on one of the many riverside beaches, where you will enjoy a mouth-watering dinner under the stars. This is a great option if you are short of time and want to experience the stunning scenery of the area from the river. Children will love playing and swimming in the river and adults will love the relaxed pace. Your guide will bring inflatable kayaks along so you have the option to explore at your own pace.

Green River (grade II – III rapids depending on water levels)

The Green River trip is ideal if you have more time and want to get further off the beaten track, well away from the day-trippers on the Colorado River. Your trip begins with a scenic flight before you set off in your raft. The five day trip includes some shorter hikes and the chance to see Indian petroglyphs, as well as some rapids. The emphasis is on fun and you will have a child-friendly guide with you who will take the children on nature hikes while you have a chance to relax by the river. Evenings are spent camping by the river and chatting round the campfire. Your guide will bring inflatable kayaks along so you have the option to explore at your own pace.

10 +

For the older children, there are a couple of rafting trips that go through wilder rapids:

Westwater Canyon – either 3 days or 2 days (grade III – IV rapids depending on water levels)

This trip begins with a 2 hour drive upstream from Moab to the Colorado River. The first day is more of a relaxing one, with a chance to swim, play and float along. The next day is when the fun begins, with a succession of rapids to navigate. There are also some great hiking opportunities, as well as the chance to relax around camp. This is a great option for families short on time who want some good rapids. You will have the option of having a paddle boat for your family, so you can navigate the rapids as a family together.

Cataract Canyon (grade III – IV rapids depending on water levels)

The Cataract Canyon rafting trips take you through the stunning Canyonlands National Park, through some of the region’s most beautiful scenery. The trip begins on the Colorado River, close to Moab, and ends in Lake Powell. Over the course of the five days, you will tackle rapids, hike in the National Park and look for Native American petroglyphs. As with all of the trips, you will camp by the riverside and have plenty of time to relax. You will return to Moab via a scenic flight. This trip is by oarboat, which means that the guide navigates through the rapids.

White Water Rafting with Children - A Mum's Point of View

Tue, 22 Oct 2013 15:28:00 +0100

I have done some white water rafting in my time, but was very seduced by the idea of taking my daughter rafting and then camping on a river beach and toasting marshmallows over a fire. A little contrived, perhaps, but that is what clichés are there for! Because my daughter is only seven, I was unable to take her on fast rapids – you need to be 10 and over for that – so we settled for a two day, one night ‘float trip’ on the Colorado River, with a few light rapids along the way.

We were given the option at the time of booking whether we wanted an inflatable kayak, or to go on the oarboat with our guide. We opted for a kayak, with the agreement that if we got tired, we could have a lift. And what a good choice that was! We set off on our adventure, kayaking down some of the most gorgeous scenery. The red rocks and clear blue skies had quite rightly earned our section of the river the moniker of ‘postcard alley.’ Our lunch was a sumptuous affair on a deserted beach. We went to look for interesting stones and explored our tiny island while our guide prepared some delicious food. The pace was perfect for us, enough time to potter around, but not so much time that we got restless. After lunch, we headed off again, stopping off for swims and waterfights along the way in the surprisingly warm water.

We eventually found a beach that was perfect for camping, so we pitched our tent and looked for lizards while our guide prepared our dinner. I didn’t have to lift a finger. As the stars started to come out, I sat back and was quite simply in awe of the scenery. We felt so far from civilisation, it was a real treat to have left mobiles behind and to just enjoy some of life’s simple pleasures. My daughter loved the beach and the surroundings and was as happy as Larry, I even had time to open my book and read a little. Our guide didn’t just have us toasting marshmallows, but introduced us to smores, a traditional American campfire treat of marshmallow, chocolate and crackers….

The next day, after a surprisingly good night’s sleep, we headed off down-stream again, much to our delight following a group of otters. We then hit the rapids, they weren’t huge, but they were immensely enjoyable. My daughter absolutely loved it.

All in all, a fabulous trip and possibly the most relaxing 24 hours of my life!

The Best Eastern Cape & Garden Route Safaris

Tue, 22 Oct 2013 15:26:00 +0100

Read on for our round-up and comparison of the best Garden Route and Eastern Cape Private Reserves.

There are a growing range of quality safari options in the Eastern Cape and Garden Route area. Although certainly not as wild or expansive as Kruger, the location is convenient, the mountain and fynbos landscapes frequently beautiful and the wildlife plentiful. The region is perfect for a first time safari or for families with children who want a malaria free safari. The big National Park is the ever-growing Addo National Park which is noted in particular for its large herds of elephant, however most safaris take place on private conservancies.

What you are not going to get is that feeling of complete wilderness that you get in some of the best safari location in Southern and Eastern Africa, but don’t let that hold you back. For first time safari-goers or families with children, the region offers some fantastic experiences. The reserves don’t tend to be massive, so we usually recommend a two night stay at the end of a Cape Town and Garden Route itinerary.

The overall quality of the private reserves in this area is very high. In the search for the best family safari option in the Cape area, we have stayed at Gondwana and Botlierskop (near Mossel Bay), Buffelsdrift (Oudtshoorn), Riverbend Lodge (Addo), Amakhala Reserve (Eastern Cape) and Kariega and can honestly recommend a visit to any of these. There are pros and cons to each, but if you haven’t been on safari before, then I would honestly be surprised if you weren’t blown away by the experience at any of them.

GONDWANA GAME RESERVE (11000ha)
Gondwana Game Reserve is situated on a beautiful stretch inland from Mossel Bay in the heart of the Garden Route. The scenery here really is breath-taking and the wildlife is superb. Within a 24 hour stay we saw cheetah, giraffe and a pride of lion feasting on a freshly killed Eland. Accommodation is very well appointed and the adult only Kwena Lodge huts (modelled on traditional Khoi-San dwellings) are first class.

Families are accommodated in bush villas, these are ostensibly luxury villas plonked in the middle of a game reserve. They are incredibly well appointed, but the lavish interiors don’t necessarily chime with the environment. Another consideration is that young children aren’t allowed to eat in the main lodge restaurant so evening meals are served in the villas (you can also self-cater or braai on the veranda). This can be an advantage, but also has the potential to leave you feeling a little left out on a limb.

Gondwana is managed by a large corporate and somehow that does come across in the service when compared to the mostly owner managed reserves elsewhere in the region. On game drives, we spent a lot of time chasing around the bush after lions and would have preferred a more rounded experience. This is particularly important for families, children will be just as interested in the small game as the lions. Of course, you shouldn’t judge a place on one experience, but other reviews on Tripadvisor do correlate to some extent.

Wildlife 4/5 (well stocked and no segregation)
Landscape 5/5 (would be hard to beat the incredible views)
Safari Ambience 2/5 (luxury rather than bush ambience, particularly in family accommodation)
Families 3/5 (activity packs for kids, but families limited to villas)
Tripadvisor 4.5/5 (based on 163 Reviews )
Value 4/5 (there are some very good specials worth looking out for)
Overall Score = 3.6/5 (Good Garden Route Option when offers are available)

In Gondwana's favour, superlative views

We saw a small pride of lion feasting on this Eland at Gondwana

Kwena Lodge Huts in Gondwana are for adults only

The interior of the family villas. Luxurious, but not exactly in keeping with the bush setting.

BOTLIERSKOP PRIVATE GAME RESERVE (3000 ha)
The family owned Botlierskop Private Game Reserve is one of the smallest reserves in the Garden Route and Eastern Cape, but makes up for its diminutive size with great service and family friendly activities. We loved the safari style accommodation in the thick of the bush and were genuinely startled and thrilled when confronted by the shining eyes of a nyala gleaming out of the darkness on our walk back to the tent to one night. There is an excellent range of activities available and Botlierskop is particularly well suited to families. We took a morning horse ride amongst among rhino and plains wildlife which was absolutely unforgettable and comes highly recommended (suitable for beginners or experienced riders).

The disadvantages of Botlierskop are two-fold, firstly the land feels the least wild of all the options discussed here with electricity pylons over-head and neighbouring villages and farms clearly visible from view-points. Secondly, the predators (lions) are kept segregated from the other wildlife which although understandable from the point of view of conservation on a 3000ha plot, does diminish the experience a little.

Wildlife 3/5 (well stocked but lions kept apart)
Landscape 3/5 (would be hard to beat the incredible views)
Safari Ambience 3/5 (Great Safari tents in the bush)
Families 5/5 (great balance of activities for families and no restrictions)
Tripadvisor 5/5 (based on 183 Reviews )
Value 5/5 (offers some of the best value in the region)
Overall Score = 4/5 (activities make this a good garden route option for families on first time safaris)

Service and guiding is superb at Botlierskop, note the electiricity pylons and farmlands in the background

The views though are otherwise stunning

It is understandable, but having the lions in a separate section of the reserve is a disadvantage.

The big reason to visit though, especially for families, is the range of activities on offer, including horse rides through the reserve.

BUFFELSDRIFT GAME LODGE (4500 ha)
Buffelsdrift is full of surprises. On the face of it, the entrance just 5 minutes drive outside of Oudtshoorn feels more like a visitor attraction than a private reserve, but hidden within is a beautiful land-scape. Lavishly appointed safari tents are located on the shore of the lake and we were woken during our stay by the sound of hippos literally metres outside. We were also pleasantly surprised by the quality of guiding with a refreshing focus on all the wildlife not just the big animals - the 6 year old loved learning about (and nibbling) the wild plants. Currently there are no lions on the reserve, but plans are afoot to acquire neighbouring land and introduce predators.

Buffelsdrift is very proud of its elephant experiences which allow you to get up front and very personal with their tame elephants. Children and adults who are confident with animals will love it. For me it lacks the sense of wilderness you get in the best reserves, but given its location, good value and the tents on the lake, it is arguably the best choice for a family looking to drop a short and relatively inexpensive safari experience into a Garden Route holiday.

Wildlife 3/5 (well stocked but no lions yet)
Landscape 4/5 (Incredible views from the look-out)
Safari Ambience 3/5 (Great Safari tents on shores of the damn, but close proximity to civilisation detracts)
Families 4/5 (Elephant encounters and balanced guiding good for families, only drawback is that families must stay in the second tier of tents back from the lake)
Tripadvisor 4.5/5 (based on 179 Reviews )
Value 5/5 (offers some of the best value in the region)
Overall Score = 3.9/5 (activities make this a good garden route option for families on first time safaris)

06.30hrs @ Buffelsdrift: 6 year old emerges from bed and goes to take a look at the hippos that have just woken her. Hard to argue with that.

If you know of a better spot for a sun downer than Buffelsdrift then I would like to know about it...

The Elephant Experience is much lauded, but it isn't for everyone (look closely at her face).

Sightings of Giraffe, Rhino, Hippo numerous plains species are common, but there are currently no predators on the Buffelsdirft reserve.

AMAKHALA PRIVATE RESERVE (7000 Ha)
Amakhala Private Reserve in the Eastern Cape is set in a beautiful valley with excellent wildlife and accommodation options at reasonable value compared to its more illustrious neighbour Shamwara. It has an industry leading attitude to conservation and supporting local communities and a nice selection of small individually owned camps and lodges. Our attention is naturally drawn to the small camps in Amakhala which offer a superb balance of safari ambience and value.

Hillsnek is a simply gorgeous small camp set on a bluff overlooking the main section of Amakhala reserve. This is one of those places where everything comes together just so, with fresh contemporary and inviting décor and a wonderfully relaxed ambience. There are just three tents and the main pool / dining area all wrapped around the incredible wall-to-wall views. Quatermains is a small and intimate colonial expedition style camp which means paired down furnishings, crisp white canvas and a simple firelight and candle ambience. There is no electricity at night - all lighting is provided by paraffin lamps. Owners, Riaan and Julie Brand host at camp, are very experienced safari guides and have an exclusive arrangement to access both Shamwari and Amakhala reserves on game drives, which is a huge plus. Also unlike most other safari options in the area, it is possible to enjoy guided bush walks, which is a fantastic way to get a feel for the environment and of course stretch your legs a little. Quatermains is ostensibly for over 12s only but offers fantastic value for larger families (of five or more people) who can take place in exclusivity and in which case no age limits apply.

Wildlife 4/5 (well stocked but no lions yet)
Landscape 4/5 (Incredible views from the look-out)
Safari Ambience 4/5 (Great Safari tents on shores of the damn, but close proximity to civilisation detracts)
Families 4/5 (Personal service at small camps very accommodating of children)
Tripadvisor 5/5 (based on 96 Reviews for Amakhala Hillsnek and 76 reviews for Amakhala Quatermains)
Value 5/5 (offers some of the best value in the region)
Overall Score = 4.3/5 (Superb small camps and good overall value)

Typically stunning Eastern Cape scenery at Amakhala

Amakhala has good populations of elephant and giraffe in addition to limited numbers of predators

The safari shower at Hillsnek Amakhala, streets and away one of the finest camps in the Eastern Cape

Looking for souvenirs. Hillsnek provide a children's pack including an egg box for a poo safari.

KARIEGA GAME RESERVE (9000 Ha)
A slightly larger more commercial operation than many of the others discussed here, Kariega is nevertheless a very good option with fantastic wildlife. Over two game drives we saw lions on three separate occasions and were very lucky to see one hunt and kill a bush pig. The guides are excellent and very enthusiastic. There is a choice of accommodation available, and the quality does vary. The River Lodge is superb (couples only), but accommodation in the main lodge and Ukhozi Lodge is a little dated in the interiors. Having said that who is going to complain about that when you have a deck with private plunge pool overlooking a stunning valley? The landscapes are beautiful and wild, but are let down slightly by the public road running through the reserve.

For families, the advantages of staying somewhere like Kariega is that the slightly less intimate atmosphere will probably mean you can relax more and worry less about noise levels.

Wildlife 4/5 (well stocked)
Landscape 4/5 (Beautiful)
Safari Ambience 3/5 (Let down only by the road running through)
Families 4/5 (Relaxed holiday ambience good for families)
Tripadvisor 4.5/5 (based on 240 Reviews )
Value 5/5 (offers some of the best value, look out for offers)
Overall 4.1/5 (Hard to fault, only real criticism is lack of intimacy)

More stunning Eastern Cape scenery at Kariega

We got lucky and saw a lion kill a bush pig, it was all over in seconds.

Guests staying in the superb River Lodge get to travel to the main game viewing area by boat

Guests staying in the Kariega Ukhozi Lodge get their own plunge pools

RIVERBEND LODGE (14000 Ha)
Riverbend Lodge is situated on a private concession within Addo National Park. It is probably the most expensive option in this round-up and is almost certainly the highest quality on offer. The plot of land is gorgeous, taking pride of place in Addo where the park meets the Zuurberg Mountains. The quality of guiding was the best we have experienced in the Eastern Cape and the level of service is incredibly personal.

Being part of Addo, the game can be less concentrated than in some of the other private reserves, but that only lends it a greater authenticity and sense of wilderness. The lodge itself is a very high end colonial farm-stead. River Bend goes to great lengths to accommodate families and comes highly recommended by my 6 year old. There are kid’s menus and dedicated children’s activities on offer, but it is really simply the quality of the guides and staff that makes this place so welcoming for families. It is worth noting that there is a separate farm-stead available for rental for larger family groups.

Wildlife 5/5 (Part of the greater Addo National Park)
Landscape 5/5 (Zuurberg Mountains provide a beautiful backdrop)
Safari Ambience 4/5
Families 5/5 (Most welcoming lodge for families in the region)
Tripadvisor 5/5 (based on 161 Reviews )
Value 2/5 (Is considerably more expensive than other options)
Overall 4.3/5 (Best on offer, but expensive)

River Bend Lodge is a high quality lodge with superb guides, expect a very personal experience.

Breakfast with herds of Addo elephants wandering by, and yes the granola was the best I have ever tasted.

Buffalo at Addo River Bend Lodge

CONCLUSION
Honestly speaking, a first time safari goer can’t go wrong with any of these options. When planning itineraries for clients we tend to opt for the Eastern Cape Reserves, simply because it makes more sense in the overall balance of things to finish your trip with a safari. Overall, a couple of places stand head and shoulders above for their ambience, intimacy and value, including Amakhala Hillsnek (easily the best appointed camp in the area), Amakhala Quatermain’s (pared back safari camping with access to Amakhala and Shamwara reserve) and Riverbend Lodge. Having said that, Buffelsdrift in Oudtshoorn, Gondwana & Botlierskop near Mossel Bay and Sanbona near Montague are all good options if you are flying in and out of Cape Town and not making it as far East as Port Elizabeth.

If budget is tight, then the combination of staying in Camp Figtree with forays into Addo National Park is a good one. Staying in Addo Rest Camp itself will be even cheaper, the accommodation is so-so but is amidst the wildlife (it is not unusual to see giraffe and elephant from your cabins), it can be a little over-run and it is unlikely you will get that safari ambience. Like-wise out of peak, a one day stay at any of the Garden Route reserves is a good option.

The Grand Canyon - Where to stay

Tue, 22 Oct 2013 15:26:00 +0100

There is no denying that the Grand Canyon, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, is a sight not to be missed. The same, sadly, cannot be said of the accommodation options in the vicinity, which offer a comparatively low quality at extortionate prices. If you want to spend more than a day at the Grand Canyon, however, you are a captive market and so just need to accept it and focus on the views.

The main accommodation choice you need to make is whether to stay in the Grand Canyon National Park, or outside. The advantage of being in, is that you are in walking distance of some amazing views, which makes sunrise and sunset viewing easier. There is also the added romance of staying in the park. However, park accommodation sells out months in advance and is very expensive for what it is. Also, none of the accommodation in the park has a pool, which is a consideration if you are travelling with children. Of the park accommodation, Maswik Lodge North is a reasonable, if rustic option, set in ponderosa pine forest, rooms are fairly out-dated, but have the advantage of a small balcony area overlooking the forest. Thunderbird & kachina Lodges offer small motel rooms with a rim view which are ideal for early risers wanting to beat the crowds for early morning views. The premium option within the park is El Tovar, which offers olde world style decor and is the most elegant option in the park.

Outside of the park, in the south, the main gateway town is Tusayan, which is a 10 minute drive from the park. It is a fairly soulless place, but has the usual chains of hotels and motels on offer (Best Western, Holiday Inn Express etc) Whilst these don’t offer particularly characterful accommodation options, for a night or two they are perfectly fine and have the added benefits of having leisure facilities – nearly everywhere has a pool and the Best Western even has a bowling alley.

Further south, is the charming town of Flagstaff, but at 1 ½ hours drive from the park, this is a less convenient option.

Where to stay in Moab

Tue, 22 Oct 2013 15:20:00 +0100

Moab is a lovely town in Eastern Utah. It is a real hub for adventure travel and seems to buck the trend for franchises and has attracted a plethora of independent shops and restaurants and even the odd independent accommodation provider, amongst the usuals.

Moab is situated close to the Colorado River, which makes it the perfect base for those wanting to go white water rafting. The river doesn’t actually flow right through the town, but there are a couple of accommodation options (Red Cliffs and the upmarket Sorrel River Lodge) that are situated directly on the river’s banks. These two are ideal if you are looking for solitude and a chance to sit back and take in the river, especially if you aren’t going rafting. However, if you like to be able to wander into town and choose your restaurant and have a drink or two, then you are better off staying in town.

The Best Western Canyonlands has the prime position in the town, in walking distance of the independent book shop and many of the best restaurants. It is a solid option, although doesn’t reflect the indy vibe of Moab. If you want to stay somewhere with character, then Gonzo Inn is an excellent choice, a little further from the high street, but still in walking distance.

Slightly further out of town and close to Arches National Park, you have the Aarchway Inn which is a charming motel with pool and play area, ideal if your children want the space to let off a bit of steam. You will need to drive into Moab from here, but it will only take 5 minutes or you can catch the shuttle into town.

Slot Canyoning Adventure in Utah

Tue, 22 Oct 2013 15:05:00 +0100

A few years ago, when 127 hours came out, I remember chatting about the story line and debating what I would do in a similar situation. For the benefit of those who haven’t seen the film, or read the book, it is a true story of a young man who goes canyoneering in Utah and becomes trapped after a rock fall. The only way for him to escape was to cut off his arm. So when I was planning my trip for me and my seven year old daughter to Utah and someone suggested that I should try canyoneering, I thought they were joking. I was promised a day I would never forget and a truly amazing experience. Never one to like to turn down a challenge, I very nervously agreed to it.

As the day approached, I was nervous both for myself and my daughter. Our trip would involve rappelling (abseiling) and then squeezing through narrow gaps, going deeper and deeper into the canyon. We were told to wear old clothes that we didn’t mind ruining and told to turn up for a briefing in the office before our guide would take us out into the Escalante Grand Staircase Monument.

The town of Escalante itself is very small and not much to look at. To the east of the road, lies hundreds of miles of barely explored desert land. Dinosaur bones, Native American artefacts lie undiscovered and only very few venture off the main road into this barren area. The slot canyons themselves cannot be seen from the road and because of the risk of flash flooding in the area (this is how the canyons are formed in the first place) it is inadvisable to visit without a guide.

We arrived at our briefing for a health assessment so that our guide could choose a suitable canyon for us. Despite my protestations that we should go for a very very easy option, Rick, our guide, made his selection, kitted us out and took us off in the car. As we were driving, he soon put us both at ease, pointing out sights of interest and stopping off to show us a very rare collared lizard that he had spotted along the way.

Once we arrived, he talked us through what we were to do and then I rappelled down a 50ft sheer cliff. To say I was nervous is a bit of an understatement, but he talked me through what I needed to do and I found myself enjoying it. It was all water off a duck’s back for my daughter, who rappelled down the drop as if it was something she did on a daily basis.

For the rest of the day, we progressed further through the slot canyon, going deeper underground until the canyon walls above us were 100m high. There were more drops to rappel and as the canyon became narrower, we had to squeeze and bridge our way through. Passing the odd lizard and a fledgling peregrine falcon learning to fly, we saw or heard no other humans for the entire day, which was very refreshing after the jostle of the national parks. Five hours later, we emerged from the canyon into the bright sun, thrilled with our achievement. My daughter was the youngest person ever to have been in the canyon and she loved the physical challenge, I was immensely proud of both of us.

Slot canyoning isn’t for everyone – if you have a fear of enclosed spaces then you won’t enjoy it at all – but it is an absolutely fantastic way to get escape this very crowded and touristy corner of the world and experience the solitude and majesty of Mother Nature. Definitely one of my highlights of the area and highly recommended for families wanting an exhilarating and fun day.

Bryce Canyon - where to stay

Tue, 22 Oct 2013 15:02:00 +0100

If you are planning on visiting Bryce Canyon, there isn’t a vast amount of choice for accommodation options. You can either stay within the National Park itself, or in the gateway town, just close to the entrance. The options in Bryce Canyon City are franchise affairs; Best Western hotels or cheaper alternatives offer comfortable accommodation, with a pool. Within the park itself, there is just one park lodge, which consists of rustic cabin and also more modern motel-like accommodation. Facilities within the park are more basic; the cabins have no tv and there is no pool, but you are in walking distance of some amazing views; a real treat at sunrise and sunset.

Where you choose to stay depends entirely on whether you want to be in the middle of the park, or whether you prefer the amenities of a modern motel. Neither option takes you off the beaten track, away from the other crowds; that is solved by putting on your hiking boots and exploring by foot.

We usually recommend the Best Western accommodation, mainly because after a day’s walking and taking in views, children enjoy letting off some steam in the pool. Depending on the children’s tolerance for views and hiking, this can be a very welcome incentive. However, the park accommodation offers convenience and more atmosphere, so the decision is ultimately down to personal preference.

The Grand Canyon with Kids

Fri, 18 Oct 2013 12:16:00 +0100

One of the most iconic places in the South West USA, I was excited about showing my daughter the Grand Canyon and looked forward to sharing the spectacular views with her. We entered the park via the East entrance and drove along the scenic Desert View Drive. There are many stops along the way to park and enjoy the view as it develops. The mighty Colorado River can be seen gushing below and the sheer scale of the place is astounding.

For a child, however, one view of the Grand Canyon looks surprisingly like another and after the 4th stop, it was made abundantly clear to me that this getting in and out of the car business was no fun. She would rather stay in the air-con than face the high temperatures and more views. I was quite surprised by the reaction, so left her reading in the car whilst I took in the views on my own.

We continued our scenic drive an eventually arrived at the very busy Grand Canyon Village where we went to the visitor’s centre to pick up more information about the Grand Canyon. We watched a short information film about how the Canyon was formed and then found a park ranger to talk to. I had originally planned on heading to the other main view points, but could tell that this would involve quite a battle of wills as it was very very hot, so instead we signed her up for a ranger’s programme. She was given a pack to fill out and then was instructed to attend a ranger lead event. Now it was me dragging my heels. I had come to take in views, not attend cheesy ranger programmes, but given that I had subjected her to a long car journey that day and had planned a hike for us the following morning, I decided to let her win this one.

She filled out her questionnaire with enthusiasm. There were different packs for different ages, going right up to teenage years and a great choice of ranger programmes to attend. We decided to go to a ranger talk about the wildlife in the Grand Canyon and sat in the shade of the pine forest while the ranger passed around skulls and animal dung for the children to identify. All of the 30 odd children were enrapt (as were the parents) At the end of the talk, much to my daughter’s delight, she was inaugurated as an honorary ranger of the Grand Canyon.

The following morning, we woke up very early for a hike below the rim of the Grand Canyon. Unsure about the heat and how far down it would be wise to go, we had a guide with us who was able to judge the distance that we should walk and choose a suitable walk. The views from beneath the rim are mesmerising – you get so much more of a sense of scale when you go a bit lower and can see the different strata in the rock so much clearer. Again, it was well worth going early and getting away from the crowds. The walk up again was arduous, but worth the pain and there is no doubt that we both enjoyed the experience much more than if we had done one of the self-guided walks on the rim with all of the other hundreds of people.

Two days was about right for us in the Grand Canyon. I had a chance to escape the crowds and marvel at the views, whilst my daughter really enjoyed the chance to be with other kids and have a break from the driving and views. It was hot and we were both heartily relieved at the sight of a swimming pool after a long day’s hiking.

The Best Family Adventures in Western USA

Mon, 14 Oct 2013 15:18:00 +0100

#1 White water rafting on the Colorado River

Spend a few days white water rafting on the Colorado River, tackling rapids and camping on deserted river beaches by night. Swimming, water fights and campfires under the stars all guarantee a few days you will never forget.

#2 Escape the Crowds in Arches National Park

Spend a few hours hiking in Arches’ famous fiery furnace, well away from the crowds. Discover hidden arches and learn all about the geology of this unique landscape from your guide

#3 Go Slot Canyoning

Challenge yourselves to a day of rappelling, bouldering and climbing in a deserted slot canyon a unique feature of Utah’s landscape.

#4 Hike the Narrows in Zion

A fun day hike for families hiking along the Virgin river in Zion National Park, allowing you to get a sense of the sheer scale of the Canyon with plenty of opportunities to cool off.

#5 Go hiking in the Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon attracts millions of tourists, the only way to escape them is to hike and see the Canyon from a totally different perspective. Get below the rim and you will be mesmerised by the different perspective.

#6 Go off the Grid on a Yosemite Wilderness Trek

Zion National Park with Children

Mon, 14 Oct 2013 14:31:00 +0100

Created by the forces of nature; the Virgin River and erosion, the red rock canyons of Zion form one of Utahs’s most popular national parks. The main activity in the park is hiking and there are some stunning walks. You can’t drive into the park, so need to catch a shuttle bus from the visitors centre. The visitor centre is always a good place to start your day as you can pick up maps and also find out whether there are any weather warnings for the day ahead.

Older children who don’t have a fear of heights may want to tackle the famous Angels Landing which is a 5 mile hike up to a stunning viewpoint. But this is not a hike recommended for younger children or nervous parents as there are some sheer drop offs and it is best to speak to a park ranger before you attempt it. A fun alternative is to hike the Narrows, a popular gorge walk in the park. Accessed via a conventional trail, the fun starts when you reach the river and the walk continues through the water. You get a real sense of how deep the gorge is and there are some fabulous hanging gardens. The full length hike is a few days, but you can spend a happy few hours on the first section of the walk. You can rent equipment, or just take old shoes with you that you don’t mind getting wet. Water can get as deep as waist height in some parts, so wear fast-drying clothes. This is a popular walk and it gets very hot in the day, so go early to take advantage of the shade from the canyon walls and the lower numbers of visitors. If you are looking for a gentler walk that doesn’t involve getting wet, then the Emerald Pools Hike is a good bet, although again, a popular choice with families so an early start is recommended.

As well as hiking, there are some other activities you may want to consider in Springdale, the gateway village to Zion. River tubing is a fun way to spend the afternoon – you rent an inflatable tyre and float down the river. This is a gentle pursuit, especially in the summer months when the water flow is low. A very relaxing way to spend an afternoon.

Las Vegas with Kids

Mon, 14 Oct 2013 14:21:00 +0100

I’ve been to Las Vegas before as an adult and remember being intrigued by the bright lights, gambling and unashamed hedonism of the place. Returning with my 7 year old daughter was, however, an entirely different prospect. I had expected that she would enjoy the bright lights and would be amused by the sight of the Eiffel Tower and a fairy tale castle all on the same road, but was also slightly concerned by what she would make of this original sin city. The answer was bemusement. She did indeed enjoy the lights and the show I took her too, but was perturbed by the constant noise and gambling and the sight of people smoking and drinking and playing slot machines at 8.00am when we were getting our breakfast.

The fact of the matter is that Las Vegas is really an adult’s playground and has not been designed with children in mind so it is important to visit with that in context. On the other hand, it is a convenient place to fly into, with direct flights from the UK and it makes sense to base yourselves there for a day or two to recover from jetlag. If you are prepared to answer a few awkward questions from your offspring about gambling and scantily clad women, then you can still make the most of your time in this over the top city. The other thing to remember that Las Vegas is slap bang in the middle of the desert and is very hot – at times too hot to be outside. Be prepared to lie low in the heat of the day and come out in the evenings when it is (slightly) cooler.

Things to do

The strip is a tourist attraction in itself and whether you are driving or walking there is plenty to see. For thrill seekers, the rollercoaster at New York New York will appeal (riders must be above 4.5 ft) For those who prefer to keep their feet on the ground, the fountain displays outside the Bellagio are every 15 mins in the evening and every 30 mins during the day. Set to music, these are a fun sight. Other sights of interest include the trapeze acts at Circus Circus. Paris and the Venetian offer replicas of the Eifel Tower and St Mark’s Square, you can even ride a gondola in Venice.

If you enjoy water parks, then wet n’wild 30 mins out of Las Vegas is a great option. It isn’t huge, but there is a lazy river, wave pool and some good slides, as well as a children’s area. It is worth paying a little extra for a cabana, which is essentially a gazebo offering much needed shade during the hot sunny days. A great place to get over your jetlag.

Shows

Some people say that you can’t visit Las Vegas without taking in a show. This comes at a price, but is a fantastic way to spend an evening.

We went to see Tournament of the Kings, at Excalibur, which is a real family show. The format is of a medieval tournament with knights riding real horses and plenty of pyrotechnics. The audience is divided into segments, supporting one of the knights (and one section for the baddie) Audience participation is encouraged ad even the most cynical Brit will find themself cheering and booing. Food is a roast chicken and vegetables – eaten with fingers as all medieval banquets dictate. A fun show all round.

Other shows that children may enjoy include Cirque du Soleil and the Blue Man Group. Tickets for all of these can be purchased in advance, but much like in London’s West End, there are discount ticket booths in Las Vegas where you can pick up tickets on the day.

If you want free entertainment, then there are half-hourly circus shows at the end of the strip in Circus Circus (free parking). Performances run throughout the day and are free of charge, there is limited seating. Be aware that to get to the arena, you will need to pass through a large family friendly gambling hall where your children can spend all your money on throwing ping pong balls into jam jars and hooking ducks. The trapeze act was, however, excellent and about the only thing in as Vegas that I didn’t have to pay for.

Shopping

The Fashion Mall on the strip is an upmarket shopping mall with all of the usual stores. There is a large food court and plenty of shops for you to pick up anything you have left behind. This is not the place to get discounted clothes, however. If you are hoping to pick up a bargain, you will need to head to one of the outlet malls in the suburbs. Ask your hotel concierge for recommendations.

Where to eat

There are countless places to eat in Las Vegas, with every casino trying to lure customers with promises of all you can eat buffets. Children will enjoy the Rainforest Café at the MGM Grand which sees you eating in a mock rainforest with advanced animatronics and regular tropical showers (without the rain). The food is pricey, but is entertaining. Wherever you decide to eat, we recommend that you ask your concierge to book you a table, they may also have access to discounts.

If you are looking for fast food, then the In n’Out Burger Chain is a great option. You will also find plenty of the usual chains, McDonalds, Subway etc

Breakfast isn’t usually included in the price of accommodation in the USA. However, most of the hotels have a café on-site where you can get a generous buffet.

Visiting Monument Valley with Children

Mon, 14 Oct 2013 13:37:00 +0100

Prior to my visit to Monument Valley, I have to admit (to my shame) that I had never seen a Western. I knew of John Wayne, of course, but the genre of film was lost on me. I decided to do my homework before I went and watched the Searchers, which I was told was a classic. To my surprise, it was a highly enjoyable watch and made me very excited about visiting there. My daughter, at 7, was totally oblivious to who John Wayne was, so I was curious as to what she would make of Monument Valley, but at the same time I was also keen to expose both of us to some Native American culture while we were in the US.

The approach to this famous area is through desert land, but nothing quite prepares you for the sight of the iconic mittens rocks looming in the distance. I had agonised a lot about how we should explore Monument Valley. I hadn’t rented a 4WD and so a self-guided drive wasn’t an option, so I had booked us onto a 2 ½ hour tour with a Native American guide. I was aware that this was more for me than for my daughter and was apprehensive about whether she would be bored rigid (and whether this would affect the other people on the tour)

In reality, there was absolutely no need for me to be concerned. We set off in an open –top vehicle with our guide giving commentary as we drove. There were many stops along the way, where we were encouraged to get out and take a look around. In addition, much of the explanation was about the large rocks in the area and what they resembled in the Native American culture. My daughter quickly became very adept at recognising rocks in the shapes of elephants, totem poles and many more. As the guide told stories of his childhood of collecting rattle snakes, we got out of the car and looked for tracks in the desert sand. We were also show examples of petryoglyphs, ancient Native American cave paintings.

As Monument Valley is in the desert, it does get very hot and so 2 ½ hours was about right for us. It gave a great introduction to the area and Navajo culture and our patient guide was happy to answer all of our questions. I’m not sure I would recommend a whole day out on tour with kids, but it was an insightful and fun way to see an area that we wouldn’t have been able to visit independently.

Things to do in Bryce Canyon with children

Fri, 11 Oct 2013 10:14:00 +0100

Bryce Canyon, with its unique hoodoo rock formations set amongst pine forest, is an astounding destination for families. At a higher altitude than Zion and Las Vegas, it offers a welcome respite from the heat of the desert, making it a much more comfortable climate for walking and exploring. Even the most cynical and disinterested children can’t fail to be impressed by the views, with added amusement of finding the rock formation named after Queen Victoria (it is said to be a good likeness)

As in all the National Parks, your best bet is to head straight to the visitor’s centre, where you will be given maps and walk recommendations. Bryce isn’t a huge park, so a day is easily enough to see the highlights. We recommend getting out of the car and exploring by foot. The Navajo loop and Queen’s Garden trails are both popular options and best explored early to escape the crowds.

There are also horse riding trips available which take you to the canyon floor along a scenic route. Whilst the groups are large, they operate with a ratio of 6 /7 riders per guide leaving at regular intervals, so you don’t feel the over-crowding. A lovely way to experience the beauty of the canyon. Rides can be booked at the Bryce Canyon lodge, or online.

Just outside of the National Park is Bryce Canyon City, a real tourist trap where you will almost certainly stay for the night. Whilst the food and accommodation options are not that exciting, there is a rodeo in town (Weds – Sun) which features racing and traditional bucking broncos. It is for tourist’s amusement, but the atmosphere is great all the same and guaranteed all the family will be whooping and cheering by the end.

The Best Views in Western USA

Mon, 23 Sep 2013 14:13:00 +0100

The Western States of California, Utah, Nevada & Arizona have a total of 64 National Parks between them, offering some of the most stunning scenery and views that you will get to see on earth. This is a selection of some of our favourites, do let us know if you think we have missed any out....

1) Dead Horse Point State Park, Utah

Located close to Moab, Dead Horse Point State Park is one of the smaller national parks in Utah, but definitely not to be missed. In the heart of cowboy country, this landscape was treacherous for those trying to make a living here in the 1800's with steep cliffd and a harsh desert environment. The views from the point are breath-taking, the Colorado River can be seen 2,000ft below and the pinnacles of Canyonlands National Park can be seen in the distance. Another famous movie location, the final scene of Thelma and Louise was filmed here.

2) Views from Utah's Scenic Byway 12

We don't usually rave about scenic roads as we tend to prefer to be out of the car rather than in, but this scsnic road between Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef National Park is not to be missed. Covering a distance of 124 miles, the road takes you through forests, vast canyons and barren desert land, through an environment that was once inhabited by dinosaurs. The views give you a sense of the real scale of the country and fills you with enormous respect for the pioneers who first settled there. Not to be missed.

3) The Grand Canyon, Arizona

You couldn't possibly have a feature on the top views in America's South West and not mention the Grand Canyon. Truly breath-taking, each different viewing point and hike offers a slightly different perspective on what is one of the seven natural wonders of the world.

4) Bryce Canyon

With its unforgettable orange and white hues, Bryce Canyon offers some distinctly unique views. The dramatic 'hoodoo' rock formations set in pine clad valleys is like nowhere else on earth. Described by Mormon settler Ebenezer Bryce as 'a hell of a place to lose a cow' the landscape is dramatic and, in winter, brutal but a wonderful place to go and marvel at mother nature. Children will enjoy looking for the rock formation that is said to look like Queen Victoria.

5) Monument Valley

Made famous by Western films from the John Ford and John Wayne era, the landscape of Monument Valley is instantly recognisable around the world. Admittedly a bit of a tourist trap, there is no getting away from the fact that the secenry is incredible, with dramatic rock formations set in the middle of barren desert. The area is best enjoyed on a four wheel drive tour with a local guide, who will point out sights of interest and also movie locations. The tour lasts a couple of hours and whilst the Western movie context may not be that relevant to younger passengers, they will still enjoy the open top vehicles and working out the shapes of the rocks and matching them to their Native American names.

6) Yosemite, California

With sheer white granite rocks, beautiful alpine lakes and far-reaching views, Yosemite is a photographer’s dream. The famous Half Dome dominates most of the view points and also acts as a focal point fo rmany photos. If you look through binoculars, you can often see hikers at the top. The main viewpoint get congested during the summer, so we suggest getting there early for a breakfast with a view, or alternatively, head off on one of our wilderness treks where you don't have to share the views with another living souyl.

7) Golden Gate Recreation Area, San Francisco, California

Probably one of the most recognisable images of Northern California, the Golden Gate Bridge forms part of the Golden Gate Recreation Area. The area includes one of the most notorious prisons in the world, Alcatraz, as well as the bridge itself. Alcatraz is well worth a visit (although make sure you book in advance) and we strongly recommend hiring a bike and cycling across the bridge to teh other side of the Bay and then getting a ferry back.

Hiking in Arches National Park with kids

Mon, 23 Sep 2013 11:31:00 +0100

Arches National Park in Utah has the highest concentration of natural sandstone arches in the world. Famous, in particular, for the delicate arch which features on the Utah state license plates the park is easy to get to, just 5 minutes outside of Moab. As with all of the national parks, you can drive in with your rental car and explore under your own steam. Maps are available at the information centre and there is parking close to each suggested view point so that you don’t have to walk too far to see the highlights.

Whilst the arches are an amazing phenomenon, if you’re not die hard photographers or geologists, it is difficult to keep kids (and, to be honest, adults as well) engaged with lots of stops and starts. A far better way to explore is on foot and we strongly suggest that you opt to explore with a guide. The fiery furnace is a labyrinthine section of the park where you can see a variety of rock formations including naturally occurring arches, rock spires and canyon coves and is an excellent place to experience the landscape and learn about the geology in a fun way.

The first advantage of this is that you can only enter the area with a permit, meaning that you escape the droves of tourists which can be a real problem in the height of the summer. When we went, we had the furnace to ourselves which meant we had a chance to experience the beauty of mother nature up close and personal without the camera wielding tourists.

The second advantage is that whilst in the rest of the park many of the view-points are fenced off areas, in the fiery furnace you get much more of a chance to interact with your environment. To reach some of the more impressive arches, you have to squeeze through tight canyons and climb through and around boulders. Kids and adults will really enjoy the physical challenges of the hike – it doesn’t feel like a circular walk, but more of a real exploration.

If you are planning your visit at the height of summer, then you will want to do your hike at the beginning of the day, when the sun is not quite as fierce. The hike takes about three hours. After you have finished, you have time to explore the rest of the park, although having to share it with lots of other people is hard after having had the space to yourself!

To see our suggested itineraries for Arches National Park & Moab, please browse our USA holidays page or email us.

The best of Kenya

Thu, 19 Sep 2013 07:06:00 +0100

#1 GO BUSH IN THE LAIKIPIA WILDERNESS
Whilst most safaris offer an opportunity to observe the bush, the Laikipia Wilderness is an opportunity to experience the bush. Laikipia is a vast wilderness area populated by a handful of superb camps and ranches which in many ways offer the perfect formula for family safaris. Whilst the main reserves in Kenya tend to restrict you to game drives, in Laikipia, bush adventures are par for the course, think fly camping, mobile camel safaris, fishing and swimming in rivers and climbing crags to get stunning views of the plateau.
Sabuk Camp in Laikipia North

#2 MARVEL AT THE ANNUAL WILDEBEEST MIGRATION
The Maasai Mara if one of the best reserves in Africa, with a dense concentration of wildlife, endless rolling grasslands and a superb collection of family friendly safari camps to choose from. However, it raises to a different level altogether during the great wildebeest migration when more than a million wildebeest crash through the reserve, cue hungry predators and incredible river crossings.

Wildebeest Crossing Mara River

#3 CAMP WITH THE MAASAIS
Camping with the Maasai at Maji Moto Eco Camp is a fun, inspiring and eye opening insight into an incredibly different culture. Instigated by local Maasai, Salaton Ole Ntutu, a stay here is a rare opportunity to interact with an authentic, functioning community, to walk and understand the plants and wildlife of the Mara plains with a Maasai guide and if you are lucky, pick up a couple of Maasai warrior skills along the way.
Maasai Warriors at Maji Moto Community Eco Camp

#4 CLIMB AFRICA’S SECOND HIGHEST MOUNTAIN
A fantastic challenge for families with teenage children, Mount Kenya (Point Lenana) is a beautiful, rewarding peak, an ancient dormant volcano, its flanks are moulded to dramatic affect by glaciation and adorned with lush unique flora and rich in wildlife. More information on climbing Mount Kenya.
Point Lenana 4985m, Mount Kenya

#5 INDULGE ON A PRISTINE INDIAN OCEAN BEACH
A few days on the beach is the perfect antidote to all that safari. Long stretches of beach beg to be explored and it is easy to while away a few days beach-combing, snorkelling and playing in the surf.Che Shale, Malindi

The best Masai Mara Camps for families

Tue, 17 Sep 2013 09:50:00 +0100

The Masai Mara boasts a bewildering array of small camps and lodges. Whilst the best of the bunch are well documented, their reputations don’t always translate into a sensible choice for families with children. What appeals to a safari connoisseur or honeymooning couple won’t necessarily work for a family. Here we pick out some of our favourite camps and explore the considerations that are unique to families and that should be taken into account when choosing a camp in the Masai Mara.

#1. Swimming Pools: – A swimming pool is not essential on safari, and with a busy (but entirely pleasurable) schedule of game drives, walks, watering holes and sundowners, there often isn’t a lot of down time to enjoy it. However if you are on a prolonged safari (4 days and up), we find families welcome the opportunity for some down time by a pool between drives. Typically with a two or more location family safari, we will try and make sure one of the camps has a swimming pool. Decent camps with pools are relatively rare in the Mara, and are typically found in the bigger more commercial lodges and camps such as Keekorok and Mara Serena which we usually try to avoid.

One of our favourite camps in the Mara with a swimming pool is Kichwa Tembo, given its comparative size, it can't compare for intimacy with the high end smaller camps in the Mara, but we find it far superior to the larger lodges in the area.

#2. Driving time: – The Masai Mara covers a vast area and your location will heavily influence how much time you spend in the 4WD on access roads (i.e. getting to and from the main wildlife locations). Families will often find the prospect of a full day’s game drive a little too much. Staying at a camp right in the thick of it allows you to easily undertake morning and afternoon forays without too much back and forth. In the Masai Mara Reserve itself, Mara Serena and Mara Intrepids have very central locations and are perfect for families who want that bigger lodge feel with all the facilities that brings. However many camps in the adjoining private conservancies, such as Kicheche Mara and Speke's Camp also sit amidst prime game watching territory, that often serves up better sightings than the main reserve.

#3. Private Conservancies: – Most people think they want to stay in the main reserve, imagining the wildlife to be poorer in the adjoining private conservancies. This view is wrong. The adjoining conservancies are part of the greater Mara ecosystem (they are not fenced off) and the lower traffic and development levels often meaner denser concentrations of wildlife without anywhere near the same volume of other tourists and vehicles around. Staying on a conservancy is usually a higher quality and more expensive option (although not all conservancies are created equal)

One of our favourite camps in a private conservancy is the eight tent Kicheche Mara, arguably the best value high quality, small camp in the Masai Mara ecosystem.

#4. Ambience: – Ambience is an important and yet intangible part of a safari. Feeling that you are somehow immersed and amongst the wilderness certainly adds to the overall experience, and the pampering and evocative atmosphere of a good camp is something you can get very used to. This doesn’t usually come cheaply though and families will need to beware spending a fortune to stay somewhere full of honeymooning couples. Generally speaking it is this ambience and atmosphere that you trade off when you look at the budget options in the Mara.

Kicheche Mara and Karen Blixen Camp are both small camps in private conservancies with superb service, lots of roaring fires and evocative sunsets, but where the focus is still very much on the wildlife.

#5. Family sleeping arrangements: (large tent or adjacent and parents split?) Most camps will accommodate families in separate tents. Given most parents with younger children probably won’t feel comfortable leaving their children in their own tents, they often end up with the parents splitting themselves across the tents. Camps with larger tents sleeping a whole family therefore make a lot of sense.

Several camps have family tents, including Mara Intrepids whose two bed-roomed family tents include a spacious lounge and an outside deck. Mara Intrepids also has a swimming pool, great location in the heart of the Reserve (meaning less time on access roads) and children's Adventurer program.

#6. Children’s Activities: Don’t read too much into the children’s activities offered by some camps. They are a nice touch, but in reality a decent guide will bring these kind of activities alive to children through the course of a normal safari and not as part of an organised pre-arranged activity. If nothing else though, they are a good indication of a lodge or camps enthusiasm towards hosting families. Mara Intrepids is renowned for its highly regarded kids Adventurer's Clubs and is a great choice for families for its great location, friendly service and nice pool.

#7. Family value in the Mara: Differences in rates make a lot of difference when you are multiplying by four or five. Camps typically offer children’s rates between 50-75% of adult rates and it is very helpful knowing which camps offer the best children’s discounts. We usually find Speke's Camp offers a fantastic mix of value, superb guides, safari atmosphere and location. If budget is really tight, then the budget options such as Mara Springs Tented Camp and our Temporary Migration Camp make sense, what you are really trading off here is the traditional safari atmosphere of roaring fires and candle-lit ambience.

Gamewatchers Adventure Camp offers excellent value in the Mara for families or adults. Paired back to the (relative) basics, the camp sacrifices nothing in terms of wildlife, guiding and wilderness ambience. (Note: Suitable only for children over 10 only)

OVERALL

As ever no camp aces every category. We like Kichwa Tembo because it offers a good balance of value, location, service and has a lovely pool area that the whole family will love. It works really well when combined with a stay at a smaller wilderness camp. We are also big fans of Gamewatchers Adventure Camps, which offer fantastic prices for a superb wildlife experience in the heart of a lightly trafficked area rich with game. They cut back a lot of the frills but leave most of the core features in at a rate nearly half of most of the other camps mentioned in this article. Kicheche Mara and Speke's Camp are both superb products which would undoubtedly be at the top of our lists for families in the Mara if it weren’t for the lack of a swimming pool. But for many families that won’t be an issue.

12 Top tips for taking your children on safari

Mon, 16 Sep 2013 21:30:00 +0100

Parents often question the wisdom of going on safari with children. Will they grow impatient of game drives, is the not inconsiderable cost wasted on them? Yet, it is hard to think of a holiday more suitable for families. Read on for our advice if you are considering a family safari and our tips on what to look out for in choosing a family safari.

Safaris are by their nature, incredibly family friendly. Not family friendly in that it is all about the children, this isn’t one of those experiences where parents sit on marvelling at their children as they enjoy themselves, family safaris are about staring in wonder together, parents and children equally enraptured by the experience. For children, a safari is arguably the best classroom in the world, bringing nature to life with impassioned knowledgeable guides and hands-on exhibits. This is about sharing an adventure together.

Our 12 Top tips for taking your children on safari

#1 Be Adventurous: Mix game drives with walks, horse riding or cultural activities. We find children can usually handle 2 days of this easily. For very active children or for longer stays, we recommend staying somewhere where there is the option to mix the game drives up with walks, horse rides and children’s activities such as poo tracking (always popular).

#2 Be Adventurous: Don’t be afraid to camp, whether it is in luxury or simple fly camps, camping in the outdoors gives a better connection with the wilderness and wildlife than being cosseted in a large lodge.

#3 If possible, get a private vehicle, if not then sharing a vehicle with other families is preferable. Whilst it is usually fine to be mixed in, the last thing you want is to be on a vehicle with a photography fanatic who insists on long stops which test your children’s patience.

#4 Don’t cut costs on the wildlife experience. By all means look to cheaper accommodation options, but don’t be tempted to cut costs on the guides or vehicles. It is no fun sat in a minivan in the Masai Mara whilst your guide spends all his time on the VHF trying to find out from the other guides where the animals are.

#5 Safaris work well with time on the beach. We usually find the structured itineraries of a safari are complimented perfectly by a couple of days free to relax by the beach at the end of your holiday, where everybody can let their hair down. e.g. Combining the Masai Mara and Kenyan Coast.

#6 Differences in camp pricing policies for children add up. Some camps charge as little as 25% of the adult rate for a child under 12, whilst others charge 75% and upwards, it pays to know which camps offer the best children’s discounts. With family groups of four or more, private camping expeditions, private luxury safari houses and some higher end camps can become a lot more affordable on a per person basis.

#7 Consider sleeping arrangements in the camps. Camps often accommodate children in separate tents to their parents. Whilst this is perfectly safe, many parents of younger children will feel more comfortable sleeping with the children near them. Some camps have larger family tents capable of sleeping up to four. For larger family groups private safari houses (fully staffed private rental houses within the parks) can make a lot of sense.

#8 Don’t choose a lodge based on the children’s activities alone. Many lodges and camps make a big deal of their children’s activities, but look carefully. Often these are glorified baby-sitting services so mum and dad can go on game drives on their own. In reality, all that is needed to bring a safari experience to life for children is good guides, used to dealing with children. It isn’t about the programs in place it is simply about the attitude of the staff.

And when you are on safari…

#9 It isnt’ all about the big 5: Focus on the small as well as the big, it is no fun racing around a reserve trying to spot lions. Tell your guide that you are interested in the small creatures and the plants as well as the big ones, tell them you want to learn about the edible plants, about how to identify animal tracks.

#10 Make sure children go to the toilet before the game drive. Often, it just isn’t possible to get off the vehicle for a loo break.

#11 Binoculars are essential. Have at least one pair to share amongst the family, all the better if your children can have their own pair.

#12 Bring wildlife guide-books with you, children (and many adults) love ticking the wildlife checklist off as they spot them.

USA Specialist Knowledge

Fri, 16 Aug 2013 11:14:00 +0100

Anna has travelled to the USA on many occasions and the South West seems to have a certain pull for her. Suffice to say she has a bit of a love affair with the country. Her first trip out there was back in 1991 on a RV holiday with her parents. As an awkward teenager, her memories of the holiday include watching a rodeo, visiting Bryce Canyon, her first desert experience and seeing coyotes at Grand Canyon.

Over a decade later (and a couple of trips to New York & California in the meantime) she was back. This time it was as a backpacker, exploring the area on a shoe string with her husband. Visiting in the depths of winter, they saw Bryce Canyon and Zion covered in snow before trying to view the Grand Canyon (it was clouded in a large blizzard) and then finishing off the trip in Vegas.

She couldn’t stay away from the US for long, and the offer of a house swap lured her to the East Coast of America, to Savannah, where she and her family spent a happy month exploring Georgia and South Carolina.

She has long been lobbying to return back to the South West to re-visit some of her favourite places and to fulfil an ambition of a life time and do a multi-day white water rafting trip on the Colorado River. So in 2013 she returned to America again to research and develop these itineraries for us. Having visited with her parents and husband on previous occasions, it only seemed fitting for her to take her own daughter who would be a much-needed travelling companion on those long road trips and also the most discerning inspector of hotels. Alex, who was 7 at the time of the trip, can now claim to be the youngest human every to have passed through the slot canyon they visited in Escalante and has also been sworn in as a junior ranger of the Grand Canyon.

This latest trip to America has fuelled Anna’s love for all things American. She loved the rafting, the slot canyoning, the hiking, the views and the micro-breweries. Alex loved the rafting, hiking in the Grand Canyon and the water park in Las Vegas the best (as well as the milkshakes). You can read more about their recommendations and tips here.

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Highlights of Morocco for Families

Wed, 05 Jun 2013 13:14:00 +0100

Morocco is a fantastic family destination as it offers mountains, trekking, wild coast, surfing, desert and an immensely different culture, yet it is only 3 1/2 hours flight from the UK and in the same time zone. Added to that, several of the airports are serviced by cheap flight providers from the UK and you have a reasonably priced adventure in your midst. Our Morocco family holidays provide a blend of adventure and culture and have been designed for families who want a unique holiday. Many of our trips involve activities such as trekking, desert camping or surfing and accommodation is always in hand-picked riads and guest houses.

Marrakech

First time visitors to Morocco will almost certainly want to visit Marrakech, a lively and exciting city with a real buzz. The focal point of the old town is the main square, the Djemma el Fna. In the evenings, snake charmers, drummers, acrobats, story tellers and food sellers congregate, creating an electric atmosphere. It can be quite a culture shock for first time visitors, but get stuck in and it will be an experience to remember forever. There are several sites to see in Marrakech, but the key is not to overload on them. The Bahia and el Badi palaces are well worth a visit, as they offer a chance for the children to run off a bit of steam, as do the Majorelle Gardens. Designed by the late Yves Saint Laurent, the vibrant colours and cacti are a great contrast to the dusty city (and there is a nice cafe there). Back in the medina, most visitors will spend at least half of their time exploring the souks (markets) with stall holders selling everything from lamps to tea pots to rugs. With motorbikes, cyclists and donkeys jostling to get past, the souks can be chaotic to say the least, but children will be intrigued by all of the stalls. A visit to the spice market is highly recommended for the interest factor )and there is a nice cafe there.) In Marrakech, we have hand-picked some child friendly accommodation where children are welcome, but not at the expense of the atmosphere. See our pick of the best Marrakech Riads and Hotels for Families

Atlas Mountains

For those with a love of the outdoors, a trek in the Atlas Mountains is not to be missed. You can choose from 2 - 6 day treks depending on the fitness and ages of the children, but most families opt for 2 or 3 days. Accommodation out on the treks is very basic, you will all stay in one room together and there are shared (and very basic) facilities. The walking itself is stunning, with deep, lush valleys and proper peaks. All of our treks are supported with mules to carry your bags and when families trek ,we provide an extra mule for when children need to rest their weary legs. After a couple of days in the mountains, many people choose to stay in a guest house with a pool afterwards.

Atlantic Coast

Morocco enjoys a stunning coastline to the West, with large Atlantic rollers and vast sandy beaches. There are several fantastic hotels and villas if you just want to relax around the pool and on the beach. The surf can be rough for young children, so it is worthwhile making sure you are staying somewhere with a pool. The area around Essaouira is highly recommended for families. This laid-back coastal town offers a relaxed medina, gorgeous beach and the closest thing to cafe culture that you get in Morocco. Children wll love playing games on the huge beach and climbing on the ramparts. Parents will love the bohemian feel and fresh fish on offer at every corner. Oualidia is also an excellent option, especially for those with young children as it has sheltered lagoon beaches. For the more active, the summer months offer perfect conditions for younger surfers and you may enjoy staying at a surf camp with daily lessons for the whole family.

Some examples of our favourite family friendly accommodation on Morocco's Atlantic Coast

Sahara Desert

Camels, kasbahs, enormous palm trees and vast sand dunes, the Moroccan desert is a geography lesson that your children will never forget. You can almost trip over Unesco World Heritage sites, with Ait Ben Haddou, a crumbling citadel, one of the most popular. Made famous from films such as Gladiator, it is accessed by stepping stones over a River and you are then free to explore at your leisure. Children will love climbing to the top and exploring the dilapidated buildings. (There is absolutely no pretence of health & safety here) This part of the desert is predominantly rocky, but if you don't mind long car journeys, you can head out to the Sahara to see vast sand dunes up close. Once in the desert, you can travel out to a traditional Berber camp, where you will sleep under the amazing Saharan sky and climb up and roll down sand dunes to your heart's content. Camps vary from basic wild camping with no facilities to luxury camps with proper beds. No trip to the desert is complete without a camel trek, which children of all ages will love.

On the way back from the desert, don't miss the chance to stay in one of the many palmeries you will see along the way. These vast oases offer fertile land awash with date palms, cacti and farmlands. A wander through a palm grove is the perfect way to round off a trip to the desert.

When to go

You can visit Morocco all year round. Spring and Autumn are peak season, but travel in winter and summer is also possible:

Summer Holidays: In July and August, the Coast and Mountains are lovely temperatures with the hot weather tempered by the Atlantic and altitude respectively. The Desert is really very hot during this period and best avoided unless you are very determined to get out there and don't mind the heat. Marrakech itself can get very hot, it is a dry heat and quite manageable if you manage your days sensibly and avoid being in the sun in the middle of the day.

October Half Term: This is a great time to head out to the Sahara, trek in the Mountains, visit Marrakech or even head to the Coast. Book flights early to avoid the high flight costs that are typically prevalent for October half term.

Christmas Holidays in Morocco: Morocco is an excellent option for the Christmas holidays. With a climate similar to the Canary Islands, you can expect warm sunny weather and cooler evenings, a lovely contrast to back home. Marrakech can get busy with people heading here for short breaks over New Year's Eve, otherwise, the Mountains, Desert and Coast are mercifully free of the usual peak pricing that applies to heading on holiday over the Christmas holidays, the flights are also usually very reasonable. Although you can expect some good sunny weather, it is not usually warm enough for outdoor swimming pools / sun bathing on the beach. The Sahara Desert is lovely at this time of year.

February Half Term in Morocco: It is a similar story for Fab half term as the Christmas holidays, if you book early you can get some excellent flight prices and the weather can be lovely around 15 - low 20s Celsius.

Easter Holidays in Morocco: This is peak season in Morocco and one of the most beautiful times to be here. The weather is lovely and the mountains are verdant, with rushing streams full of meltwater from the high peaks. Again, it pays to book early to get the best flight prices, but we can usually still help at the last minute particularly if you are want to get away in the second week of Easter holidays.

Where to stay

The best part about travelling in Morocco with children is that you don't have to sacrifice your travelling spirit for the sake of your brood. It is perfectly possible to stay in characterful accommodation with an individual style. Many of the traditional riads have family rooms or suites and roof terraces make terrific places to play hide and seek for younger children and to lie back on a sun lounger and listen to an i-pod, for older children. The only pitfall of staying in these types of places is that they haven't been rigorously tested for health and safety and will almost certainly have balconies and steep stairs - parents need to keep a watchful eye. We have hand-picked some of the best family friendly accommodation to be found and road tested it with young children ourselves, so please don't hesitate to get in touch for help in planning your family holiday. See our pick of the best Marrakech Riads and Hotels for Families

Getting Around

We include private transfers witha lovely team of local drivers and safe, modern vehicles. Car seats are not particularly common and if you have a small child, please bring your car seat with you. (BA & BMI will allow you to bring a car seat in the hold free of charge). It is also possible to hire cars, and this can work for more adventurous families heading out to the Desert or the Coast.

Food

Depending on your child, the prospect of trying lots of new foods can either be very exciting or incredibly daunting. Breakfasts in riads and hotels are breads, jams and pastries and children will almost certainly be offered hot or cold chocolate as an accompaniment. Many places will serve pasta and pizza as well as local food, but if you want to only eat local, there are tagines, cous cous and kebabs which are fairly accessible to children.

Where to stay for visiting Ephesus

Thu, 23 May 2013 15:29:00 +0100

The ancient citadel of Ephesus lies on Turkey's west coast in the province of Izmir. In the height of summer, it receives many day trippers, from the cruise ships stopping at the port of Kusadasi and visitors from the resorts in the south of the country. If you wanted to stay and explore the area in more depth and are happy to hire a car, there are some lovely accommodation options in the vicinity in charming and boutique hotels. Self-driving in this part of Turkey is very straight forward, with an easily navigable motorway network and there are some very characterful places to explore.

Selcuk

Selcuk is the (charmless)gateway town to Ephesus. A modern town, it is has plenty of hotels and restaurants. There is also a small archaeological museum (closed in 2013 for renovations) It is possible to stay in one of the many hotels here, but you would probably only want to stop for one evening as there isn't much else of interest to keep you here.

Sirince

A hill-top town close to Selcuk, this is a popular day-trippers destination as part of their Ephesus tour. However, once the crowds have gone, this is a charming town and a lovely place to sit back and enjoy the views. Previous to 1923, Sirince was a prosperous, predominantly Greek town, with inhabitants forcibly removed during Ataturk's population exchange. The Turkish population that moved in since were able to take advantage of the region's burgeoning tourism industry, thanks to Ephesus and the cruise ship business. It is a picturesque town and it's altitude means that if you are visiting in hotter months, you have some respite from the heat.

Our suggested accommodation in Sirince is the Terraced Houses.

Cesme Peninsula

30 minutes west of Izmir airport lies the Cesme Peninsula, famed for being the wind surfing capital of Turkey. Alacati, one of the peninsula's most well-heeled towns, also holds the honour of being the home of one of Turkey's original boutique hotels (there are now over 200 in Alacati alone) Alacati is akin to Salcombe or Rock in the UK. A fashionable town oozing sophistication and wealth. In the summer months, the hotels are full of Turks on holiday. In the shoulder season months of May/ June and September / October the town is quieter and the perfect place to enjoy some of the area's more upmarket bars and restaurants.

In nearby Cesme, there are several beaches and a small port, which is surrounded with fish restaurants. From May - September, you can take a gulet boat out to some nearby islands and bays for a snorkelling and swimming trip.

Our suggested accommodation in Alacati is the Tas Otel

Turkey - When to Go

Thu, 23 May 2013 14:03:00 +0100

Turkey is an excellent destination weather-wise, with a long tourism season stretching from Easter - November. If you are travelling without children, make the most of the cheaper flights in the shoulder seasons and avoid some of the crowds. Families would be well advised to consider Easter and half term holidays, especially if they are planning on sight-seeing, to avoid the worst of the crowds.

Istanbul

It is possible to visit Istanbul all year round, with many hotels offering discounted room prices in the winter months. The high season runs from May - September when the most popular hotels will sell out well in advance.

Winter in Istanbul can be cold and you can expect to see rain and snow. From December - March, average highs peak at around 10C. April, May, October and November have pleasant day time average temperatures between 15C - 20C. June - September can be hot, with highs averaging between 24C - 30C

Cappadocia

You can visit Cappadocia all year round, but many of the hotels and restaurants, especially outside of Goreme, close for the low season (November - Easter) During this low season, you may find a reduced availability of internal flights, as some routes are only offered during the tourism season. May and September are the most popular months to visit, when the best hotels will book out far in advance.

Winter in Cappadocia can be cold and you may see snow and rain. From November - March, night time temperatures can fall below freezing and day-time highs average between 3C and 12C. Spring and autumn are very pleasant times of year to visit, with average highs of 16C - 24C, although rainfall is still a possibility at this time of year. In the summer months, temperatures can vary from 24C - 18C

Ephesus & Around

You can visit Ephesus all year round. The ruins are busiest during the summer months when cruise ships stop at Kusadasi and Ephesus can be over-run with visitors. If at all possible, try to time your visit to a different time of year, when it is a bit cooler and you don't have to contend with large groups. Some hotels and restaurants in nearby Sirince and the Cesme Peninsula shut down for the low season, but there are several good options that are available all year. The high season runs from Easter - October.

Winter temperatures can still be pleasant at, with average temperatures from 13C - 19C. You would need to reckon on rainfall at this time of year, however. Spring and autumn are drier and have very pleasant sight-seeing temperatures ranging from 20C - 28C. It is hot in the summer, with average highs of 30C - 31C

Mediterranean

The Mediterannean coast of Turkey is very quiet in the winter months of November - March. The season beings at Easter and continues through to October, although rain and cooler evenings are still possible in April and October. May through to September, expect temperatures varying from 26C - 34C and long, sunny days. The sea is warmest in July - September when it reaches 25C

Sources: Weather2Travel.com

Where to stay in Cappadocia

Thu, 23 May 2013 11:22:00 +0100

The region of Cappadocia, in Central Turkey, is serviced by two airports, Kayseri and Nevsehir and there are several picturesque towns where you can base yourself for your stay which we have highlighted below. The distances are not vast, so it is perfectly possible to depend on local taxis to get you between the towns and major sights, or you can rent a car. Be aware that accommodation can book up far in advance, especially in the peak season so if you have a particular preference, it pays to get in there early. Cave hotels are a popular option for visitors to the region and there are plenty to choose from. Most hotels offering cave rooms will have non-cave options as well, so make sure you make it clear when booking if you specifically want a cave room. Well executed cave rooms are atmospheric and cool places to stay, with bags of character. Be aware, however, that some cave rooms can feel dank and dark. Price is a useful differentiator here, as ever with accommodation, you get what you pay for.

Goreme

Goreme is seen as the hub town for Cappadocia and is certainly where the majority of travel agents and tour companies are based. It also offers the widest price range of hotels, with both boutique and hostels on offer. The town itself is very pretty and you will see modern buildings interspersed with fairy chimneys. The advantage of staying in Goreme is that there is a multitude of restaurants to suit all budgets and it is livelier than the other towns, so if you like bars and relaxed cafes, then Goreme will suit you best. The other advantage is that you can walk to the famous Goreme Open Air Museum from the town. This monastery complex is well worth a visit during your stay and offers some fabulous examples of cave churches and ancient frescoes.

Our suggested accommodation in Goreme is Vezir Cave Suites or Sultan Cave Suites.

Urgup

Urgup is a well-heeled town built on a hill with beautiful views of Cappadocia. The town has very few low-end hotels, but has some lovely elegant boutique cave hotels. There are no major sights to see, the main town is pretty and has a winery that you can visit. There is a good selection of upmarket restaurants to choose from. It is easy enough to base yourself in Urgup and visit the main sights of the region. An excellent choice if you are looking for a more sophisticated option and are not fussed about visiting bars and pubs.

Our suggested accommodation in Goreme is Esbelli Evi

Uchisar

The rock formation in Uchisar, which once served as castle, is the photo of Cappadocia that is seen on most brochures for the region. With far-reaching views of the Cappadocia region, it is a pretty place to stay. In the off-season, there are very few restaurants to choose from, but there is more going on in the peak season. If you are active, it is possible to hike to Goreme from Uchisar through the picturesque Pigeon Valley, Most people prefre to stay in Groeme and hike to the castle for lunch, bit there is no reason why you shouldn't do it the other way round. A good option if you are looking for somewhere quiet to stay with lovely views.

Our suggested accommodation in Uchisar is Karlik Evi.

Ortahisar

Ortahisar is a sleepy and attractive town with only one restaurant and very few hotels (so far). There are no main sights to speak of, other than an 18m high rock that once served as a fortress. It makes for a beautiful centrepiece to the town and is lovely to view whilst enjoying a drink on your hotel terrace. You can easily get a taxi to nearby Urgup or Goreme where there is a broad choice of restaurants. This is definitely the best option for those looking to get away from it all.

Our suggested accommodation in Uchisar is the Hezen Cave Suites.

Cappadocia

Thu, 16 May 2013 12:15:00 +0100

Located in central Turkey, Cappadocia is typified by its bizarre, semi-lunar landscape with the unique 'fairy chimney' rock formations. Caused by the wind and rain erosion of ancient volcanic lava, there is nowhere in the world quite like this. The tall chimneys stand proud in the valleys and are a living geography lesson. The pliable rock that causes this phenomena has also played a large part in the history of the area. Many early Christians inhabited the area and built churches and monasteries directly out of the rock. Many of the chapels and churches are adorned with beautiful frescoes and each tells a personal tale of devotion. As the Romans (and other invading forces throughout the centuries) the Christians went, quite literally, underground, constructing and burrowing subterranean systems in order to hide from their persecutors. Whether you are of a religious nature or not, you can't help but be in awe of nature's beauty and mankind's ability to adapt to the landscape.

The caves and malleable rocks weren't just used as hiding places. They were used over the centuries as dwellings for families and their animals. For a time, pigeons played an important role in rural life here, first farmed for their meat and subsequently for their excrement, which was used as fertiliser. Large cave villages were inhabited until the 1950's when the government ordered the re-housing of residents to more contemporary housing after fears about erosion and concerns about falling rocks.

It is still possible to visit the deserted villages, the larger ones have become museums, but there are many more that can be visited on foot. Likewise, in nearly every valley you will discover hidden rock churches and pigeon lofts, abandoned to nature but still very much forming an important part of the landscape.

The majority of people visiting Cappadocia do so in guided groups, travelling by bus. Don't let the popularity of Cappadocia put you off, but aim to discover it on foot. Most of the groups stay close to their bus and don't venture very far. By going out on a trek, you will have a chance to explore lesser visited valleys and get a sense for both historical and contemporary life in Cappadocia.

Turkey - Travel Information

Thu, 16 May 2013 11:18:00 +0100

Read on for more information about preparing for your holiday to Turkey. Information about getting there, entry requirements, money and vaccinations should answer many of questions. If you have any other queries about travel to Morocco, then please don't hesitate to contact us .Before your trip, we strongly recommend that you check the latest travel advice to your destination. For visitors to Turkey from the UK, we suggest the foreign ofice website.

Getting There & Away

Turkey is relatively easy and good value to reach from the UK. Below is information about direct flights from the UK. If you require any help with flight booking, please get in touch.

Istanbul

There are two airports at Istanbul: Ataturk and Sabiha. Ataturk is closer to the city and more convenient.

British Airways has daily flights to Ataturk from LHR

Turkish Airlines has directflights to Ataturk from LGW, LHR, MAN, BHX, EDI

EasyJet has direct flights to Sabiha from LTN

Pegasus Airlines has direct flights to Sabiha from STN

Cappadocia

Cappadocia is serviced by two airports: Kayseri (ASR) and Nevsehir (NAV) Neither of these airports has direct flights from the UK, so you will need to fly via Istanbul and then catch a connecting flight with Pegasus, Atlas Jet & Turkish airlines have. Remember to check which Istanbul airport you are flying in and out of.

Izmir

Izmir airport (ADB) is not serviced direct from the UK, you will need to fly via Istanbul and then catch a connecting flight. Turkish, Pegasus & Atlas Jet all offer these. During the tourist season (April - October) there are direct flights between Izmir and Kayseri in Cappadocia from Pegasus and Atlas Jet.

Dalyan

For Dalyan holidays, you will need to fly to Dalaman airport (DLM) There are direct flights from most UK airports in the summer season flying with Easyjet, Fly Thomas Cook, Thomson and Jet2.

Visas & Entry Requirements

British nationals require a visa to enter Turkey. The easiest way to get this is online before you depart: https://www.evisa.gov.tr/en/ You will need to provide passport information, flight details and payment of £10 per person. You will need to print out your visa and take it with you. Alternatively, you can still purchase your visa on arrival at the airport. You will need to do this before you proceed through passport control. The cost is £10 per person. This is payable by cash only - make sure you have this in notes. Please check with the FCO website (for UK citizens, or relevant consulate for other nationalities) before you depart to ensure that this advice has not changed. (https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice)

Insurance

It is imperative that you have personal travel insurance in place. The insurance should include travel delays, loss of baggage and money, medical expenses, personal accident and any cancellation costs.

If you need to make a claim for illness, injury or loss, then please inform your insurance company, the local police and ourselves as soon as possible and follow your insurers instructions.

We ask all clients to provide us with their insurance details and an emergency contact number before they travel. Please ensure that you have done this.

Health & Well-Being

General Health

We recommend that you take a travel first aid kit with you and that you visit your local travel clinic at least 8 weeks prior to departure. For UK residents, the NHS Fit for travel website (http://www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk/) is an excellent resource. The following is an excerpt from their advice (last updated January 2013, please check for latest advice): “Confirm primary courses and boosters are up to date as recommended for life in Britain - including for example, vaccines required for occupational risk of exposure, lifestyle risks and underlying medical conditions.

Courses or boosters usually advised: hepatitis A. Other vaccines to consider: tetanus; typhoid; hepatitis B; rabies.”

Feminine Hygiene

It is possible to buy sanitary items locally, however you may find it more convenient to bring all sanitary essentials with you. Toilet facilities are usually Western style facilities in hotels and restaurants, most of them come equipped with disposal units. If you are participating in wild camping, you will need to dispose of any items once you return to hotel accommodation. Please prepare for this accordingly. We recommend travelling with small disposable bags (eg nappy sacks) and hand sanitiser.

Food & Food Safety

Western food is readily available in Turkey and the local offerings are delicious and rarely spicy. There are a few basic things you can do to reduce the likelihood of an upset stomach:

• Practice good hygiene; wash your hand thoroughly after bathroom visits and before eating. We suggest taking anti-bacterial hand wash with you.

• Tap water in Turkey is not potable; we suggest using mineral water to brush your teeth.

• Avoid eating anything uncooked that may have been washed in tap water (e.g. salad items such as lettuce). Opt for fruit and vegetables that you can skin (eg bananas)

• If you are eating freshly prepared meat or fish, check to see that it has been cooked thoroughly first.

Money & Valuables

The national currency of Turkey is the Turkish Lira, although you may well find that in tourist areas prices are also advertised in Euros. Debit & credit cards are accepted in most places and can be easily used for paying entrance to museums and cafes. It is also worth taking some spare Euros and storing them separately. There are cash machines in large towns and at the main airports.

Ephesus

Tue, 14 May 2013 12:23:00 +0100

One of the most important archaeological sites in the world, Ephesus was originally built as an ancient Greek city before it was taken over by the Romans, who made it their Asian capital. The vast site (of which less than 20% has been unearthed) is one of Turkey's biggest attractions and is also a Unesco World Heritage Site. For anyone with even a passing interest in Ancient history, then it is an absolute must-see. Originally a bustling port town (the sea has since receded), Ephesus was a hub for traders and politicians. Your visit takes you through the different parts of the city, from the government quarters, through the mains street (the Champs Elysee of its time), passing the residential quarters. Despite the fact that it was built over 2,000 years ago, the sophistication of some aspects of life is astounding. Public toilets with a plumbing system (the Romans placed high importance on personal hygiene), and even an underground passage from the library to the brothel so that wives would not suspect their studious husbands. Not to be missed along the way are the Terraced Houses, for which you need to pay an additional entrance fee. This is well worth the money. Not only does it give youan insight into the intricate and laborious work that the archaeologists face trying to piece together the ancient puzzles, but you also see for yourself the ruined houses, complete with water pipes creating ancient central heating systems. At the end of your visit, you will pass the enormous amphi-theatre which played host to plays and gladiatorial fights. This vast structure just goes to prove the sheer might and discipline of the ancient Romans.

Istanbul

Thu, 25 Apr 2013 10:10:00 +0100

Where East meets West; two continents converging at the might Bosphorus river. Istanbul is an absolute must for culture vultures and lovers of the classics, Istanbul is an easy and fascinating city to explore. We recommend you base yourself in Sultanhamet for your stay. It may be a bit touristy, but with all of the major sights in easy walking distance, it is a practical choice. And whilst tourist bars and restaurants aren't on the top of everyone's list, who can resist a roof top terrace with stunning views. Sitting and watching the sun set against a back drop of an ancient and modern skyline, whilst listening to the call to prayer wafting over the rooftops, you can't possibly fail to be seduced. Please read on for more information about the top sights to see:

The Blue Mosque

One of Istanbul's most iconic buildings, the Blue Mosque sits proudly over-looking the Bosphorus. It's beautiful minaret and blue tiled roof gives it a majestic appearance. Inside, the vast spaces and high dome are impressive and, as it is still used as a mosque, it has a very spiritual air, despite the hoards of tourists. The mosque is still used for prayers, and so closes five times a day. Check with your hotel before you set out. Men should wear trousers to visit and ladies should cover their heads and shoulders. There is talk of the authorities providing smocks for tourists to wear over their clothes, to ensure that dress codes are adhered to.

Aya Sofia

Just down the road from the Blue Mosque is its older sibling, the Aya Sofia. Built by the Romans in 537, this magnificent building was originally a basilica, converted to a mosque in the 1400's. The Blue Mosque was built with the intention of out doing its rival in the 1600's but the Aya Sofia remains a magnificent building in its own right. Decommissioned as a place of worship by Attaturk, it is now a museum displaying an intriguing fusion of Islam and Christianity. The ancient frescoes and vast size of the building make it a must-see. Audio guides are available at the entrance for those wanting to go into more detail during their visit.

The Topkapi Palace

Laid out as an Imperial Palace, the Topkapi Palace has a series of courtyard each leading to another more intimate and exclusive courtyard. Visitors in imperial Turkey were allowed in according to their status and importance. The harem is a must-see, but be warned, you will need to buy an extra ticket once inside. Entering into this warren where the eunuch, concubines and wives lived and jostled for position, you can only imagine what an intense and competitive life the women lived there had. Each vying for more power and influence, desperate to bear the sultan a son. As with all imperial palaces, this was built to impress and there are many ostentatious displays of wealth. Intricate carvings, beautiful tiles and vast tulip gardens and a beautiful pagoda where the Sultan held court. The palace is a popular visitor attraction and will be heaving with tourists. Beware the sulky teenagers and Japanese groups (the latter are much better at waiting their turn in the queues.) You can get a guide or an audio-guide at the gate, but a decent guide book should also provide you with enough to get a good understanding of what it is all about. If you can face the queues, the treasury is worth a look for impressive displays of opulence and some good views of the Istanbul. Also of interest are the Sacred Safekeeping Rooms where you can see relics such as Moses' staff, Abraham's saucepan and Joseph's turban, as well as several other artefacts.

The Topkapi Palace has to be one of the highlight of Istanbul and you will need about 3 hours to visit. Visitors in spring will be particularly lucky as the gardens in the 3rd and 4th courtyards are planted with hyancinths and tulips. There are cafes and toilets inside the complex. The palace is closed on Tuesdays.

The Basilica Cistern

An eerie yet beautiful sight, the cisterns were built in 532 as an underground Byzantine water storage system. Over time, the cistern was forgotten about, but can now be visited. Large pillars prop up the ceilings and you can see carp swimming in the water below. Walking past the massive solid columns, you will see signs to the Medusa. Follow these and you will be rewarded with the sight of two large Medusa head supporting two columns. This incredible beauty was said to be able to turn people into stone if they looked directly into her eyes. Her purpose here is said to warn off evil spirits. The Cisterns offer a cool respite to the heat of the city and are well worth a visit.

The Grand Bazaar

A visit to the vast covered market makes for an interesting excursion. Reached easily on foot from Sultanahmet, or a short trip on the tram, the market is a bustling hub full of locals and tourists alike.

There are stalls selling everything from jewellery to carpets, football shirts, souvenirs, bags and, of course, carpets. Vendors will try their hardest to attract your attention but this is generally done in good humour. The price of goods is not marked, so if you want to do some shopping, work out beforehand how much you are willing to pay, go in low and then work your way to a mutually agreeable price. Remember, you don't have to buy anything, you are free to walk away from a negotiation at any time. The most important thing to do is to enjoy the experience and emerge with your good humour in tact!

Bosphorus Cruises

Wed, 24 Apr 2013 17:45:00 +0100

A cruise on the Bosphorus si just one of those iconic things you must do in Istanbul. The river connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara and, of course, divides Europe from Asia. Usedby ferries, shipping companies and pleasure boats, this busy waterway has also achieved Hollywood status, having starred alongside Daniel Craig in James Bond. The banks of the river are full of restaurants, attractive suburbs, mosuqes and palaces making it a must-see acvtivity for visitors to Istanbul. Added to that, after all the sight seeing, it's a good excuse to sit down for a few hours and rest those weary mueum feet.

Which Bospohorus cruise to choose rests entirely down to personal preference. Your hotel and local travel agent in Istanbul will be able to sell you a full day or half day package which usually includes a cruise, a visit to a spice market and a chance to visit one of the palaces on the banks of the river. Evening dinenr cruises are also possible. Half day cruises start at around €35 per person.

If you have a full day to spare, you could rely on Istanbul's ferry service and travel up the Bosphorus, taking the time to explore on the shore as you go.

There are also shorter cruises available, showing you the highlights. Expect to pay around 12TL for a 90 minute trip. Turyol is one such company. For this option, you can pick up your tickets on the quay side. Turn up 1/2 an hour before you ferry is due to depart to make sure you get a good seat. (You want to sit on the left hand side of the boat when the boat is facing forward)

Remember to check the boat to make sure that you are satsified it has life vests and a life boat before you head off.

Accommodation in Istanbul

Wed, 24 Apr 2013 17:06:00 +0100

As with everything in life, you get what you pay for. Accommodation in European cities is expensive and Istanbul is no exception. Your choice depends broadly on two factors; budget and personal preference.

Given that nearly all hotels have labelled themselves 'boutique,' this is no longer a useful differentiator. For the purposes of this guide, we will segment hotels into small and large. Large hotels have 25+ rooms and all the rooms are exactly the same. You can expect professional service with high standards of cleanliness. In more expensive hotels, you can also expect to see top notch facilities which may appeal if you are travelling with children. Some families will welcome the opportunity to have a hotel with a pool to jump into after a day out sight-seeing.

Some people love the feel of a larger hotel, others prefer something more intimate. These smaller hotels tend to be independent, family rin affairs, which leaves you more subject to the owners and their personalities. Rooms are often decorated individually and you should expect a more friendly, informal service. Personal touches mean that you are more likely to get to know your hosts. However, you may find gaps in professionalism and more quirks. It is also worth noting that smaller hotels book up quickly.

Price-wise, 3* is decidedly mid-range. Whilst you can get lucky and find a gem, the quality of hotels in this price randge is variable. Larger hotels in the 3* bracket seem stuck in the 1990's whist the small hotels in this category can seem neglected and a little rough around the edges.

4* delivers hotels with good facilities. Pools, generous roof terraces and quality fixtures and fittings can all be expected from larger hotels. Small hotels won't have the pool, but will benefit from gardens or a roof terrace with beautiful views. Service for both should be slick in this price range.

5* sees you in the luxury category occupied by hotels suchs as the four seasons. They deliver everything you would expect for rooms at this price, but you would hope so with rooms starting at €600.

All of the hotels listed for Istanbul have been personally visited by a member of the Tourdust team. Please feel free to contact us to discuss options.

Adventurous Holidays for teenagers

Sun, 21 Apr 2013 12:57:00 +0100

Finding a holiday to do with teenagers can be something of a challenge. Too old for many family itineraries that are served up, but often too young to participate on adult holiday itineraries, this is an age group that can be often over-looked. We have a selection of unique holidays that will appeal to both parents and their teenage children. Many of the holidays that we sell are entirely private so can easily be tailored to your individual requirements, please don't hesitat to get in touch if you have any questions.

Trekking & Surfing

Although not a combination you would think of immediately, our trek and surf holiday in Morocco has proven to be very popular, especially with older families. The two week holiday (which can be compressed into one) includes a three day valleys trek in the Atlas Mountains, followed by a stay in a boutique riad in Marrakech and then finally a week surfing on Morocco's Atlantic Coast. There are daily surfing lessons, but if not everyone in the family fancies it, then nearby Essaouira is a lovely town to visit or you could stay at one of our properties with a pool and relax in the gardens.

Sea Kayaking

We have several kayaking holidays, but the one best suited to teens is our sea kayaking holiday in Greece. Available to children aged 12+ this holiday is suitable for beginners as well as those with more experience. Staying in a family run guest house, there is a different guided trip each day, exploring the coastline and hidden beaches and bays along the way. Group sizes are kept at a limit of eight and while the kayaking takes all day, only three hours are spent paddling, the rest of the time is spent snorkelling, playing on the beach and learning new techniques. Accommodation is based in a small village in walking distance (15 mins) of the island's small capital, Plaka. This is the perfect place to give your teens some independence. The nightlife is not like that of some of the other Greek Islands, so you can relax in a local taverna and allow your teenagers some freedom to explore.

Challenging Treks

If you are an active and are all game for a challenge, then you might want to consider one of our challenging treks. There is nothing more bonding that completing a tough trek together. With excellent guides and delicious food, your teens will remember the experience forever. Closer to home and probably our most challenging trek, we have the Toubkal Circuit which is a 6 day challenging trek culminating in the ascent of Mount Toubkal, North Africa's highest mountain. The views are incredible and the trekking is hard-going, with some long days, but the sense of achievement felt by reaching the summit is indescribable. A couple of nights in the enchanting city of Marrakech after the trip rounds of the experience perfectly. Another further afield option is the Inca Trail. With thfour days trekking, this is shorter than the Toubkal circuit but it offers some fabulous views and some fascinating insights into Incan life.

Mount Kenya - Africa's Forgotten Peak - A first hand account

Thu, 04 Apr 2013 11:38:00 +0100

Editor's Note: This first hand account of climbing Mount Kenya via the challenging Sirimon Chogoria route was written by Kathryn Bulloch. Kathryn's trip was self funded and completed in memory of her father who sadly died on December 29th 2012 and helped to raise money for Parkinsons UK. If you enjoyed this blog please consider a donation here: http://www.justgiving.com/kathryn-bullock

I've never considered myself a mountaineer but like a bit of a challenge when I take a trip abroad. Our first thought having tackled Annapurna base camp in Nepal in 2010 was to climb Mount Kilimanjaro but everyone I'd spoken to who had done this climb said they had not really enjoyed it. Too many people, crowded paths and camps and too many charging up the mountain with altitude sickness. For me the journey is as important as reaching your destination. I wanted to enjoy my trekking experience. I met Ben from Tourdust at a travel industry event in 2011 and he suggested doing Mount Kenya and thus the idea of an alternative African mountain with lots to see along the way became a reality.

I persuaded my American friend Diane to join me and the flights were booked. However we had overlooked the fact that our trip was going to coincide with the Kenyan elections on March 4th 2013. Whilst many of the expats were being shipped out of Nairobi for safety reasons we were flying in. Friends who had lived in Kenya during the last elections shared lurid stories of the violence which had broken out after the last elections in 2007 when more than 1200 people had died and more than half a million lost their homes. We decided to keep to our original plan and take a risk with our trip.

Fortunately the elections went peacefully and Uhuru Kenyatta won with only a 0.07% gain over the 50% of the vote necessary to run the country. It took a long five days to issue the results but the delay did not cause any violence and instead Nairobi had one big party to celebrate. The level of voter participation was amazing as more than 85% of the country turned out to vote. I admire this level of participation and interest in the democratic process. The elections proved to be a hot topic of conversation during our trek and we enjoyed discussing the possible outcomes with our guide Francis and our friendly driver Samuel. I was amazed at how engaged and informed everyone was about the election.

Our trip started with a stay at the new Eka hotel near Nairobi airport which had a lovely infinity pool, comfy beds, quiet rooms, friendly staff and a great breakfast. We then met our guide and travelled direct to the Mountain Rock Lodge for the first night of our trek. We had a comfortable ensuite room each and then realised that this was to be a trip without any of the crowds that flock to Kilimanjaro. We had the place to ourselves. During the afternoon our guide Joseph took us on a local hike. We were lucky enough to see the local colobus monkeys enjoying the fruit in the nearby trees and lots of evidence that elephants had been digging up the soil with their tusks in search of minerals.

We also dropped in to meet James, the retired chief of the local village and he chatted to us about life as a Kikuyu farmer in the area. The zealous missionaries who converted much of Africa to Christianity during the early 20th century are largely responsible for the raft of English names that many Kenyans now use.

The next morning our really experienced guide Francis introduced us to our cook Ngari and our four porters who took great care of us and our luggage. The lodge had a 3D model of the mountain in the grounds and Francis showed us the route up the mountain.

Sadly I did not pay enough close attention to this briefing and was not fully prepared for the terrain that would meet us on Day 4 of our trek to the summit.

We then took a minibus up to the Sirimon park gates and set off for Old Moses Camp which at 3300m would be the first test of our ability to deal with the altitude. It was a gentle 3 hour ascent crossing the equator and we took it slowly as Francis shared stories about how a couple of Israeli trekkers had set the forest alight a couple of years ago when their stove got out of control and left behind 10,000 acres of burnt forest.

Despite the fire damage we enjoyed some of the most spectacular and colourful mountain scenery I've ever seen during our trek with giant heathers and open moorland . As the sun was starting to set we headed further up the mountain as we remembered that climbing high and sleeping low would enable us to get a better night's sleep. Old Moses camp consists of a couple of basic green huts which ressemble garden sheds.

Our cook Ngari delivered a very tasty 3 course dinner from the makeshift kitchen. We shared a small dorm and despite initially overheating in my 4 season bag, designed for arctic conditions, we had a good night's sleep.

On day two we continued onwards and upwards towards Shipton camp which is a long tiring day and determines who is most likely to make it to the top of Mount Kenya. The landscape changes from heathers to strange looking unique silver plants and lobelias that were taller than us and proved to be ideal hiding places for the local hyrax.

These creatures resemble overgrown guinea pigs and make the loudest racket at night - a bit like a a huge bird in great distress. We paused a few times by idyllic streams and on a couple of mountain passes to enjoy the views and the stillness.

This is a real garden of Eden and Francis answered all our many questions about the flora and fauna which are unique to this region. We climbed a ridge where we could look along the whole length of the Mackinder Valley towards Shipton’s Camp – our destination for the next two nights.

It was a long 8-9 hour slog to Shipton's and the increase in altitude (almost 1000m) really started to affect me as I reached the camp. I had nausea and a severe headache. I put myself to bed with a cup of Ngari's magic brew of lemon, ginger and garlic tea. I was feeling much better after an hour or so but only managed a bowl of Ngari's tasty leek soup for dinner.

The next morning we slowly eased yourself out of our bags into the bitter cold and walked out to enjoy the most amazing sunny view of the snow covered surrounding peaks. Shipton’s camp at 4250m is nestled in as small crater and the stillness and has stunning views down the majestic wide Mackinder Valley carved out by a giant glacier.

We were here for a couple of nights to acclimatise and took a scramble up a scree slope to 4600m to enjoy the views of the valleys and Two Tarms below and the peaks of Batian and Nelion. Francis taught us the art of walking quickly down scree slopes which was a vital skill for negotiating the terrain the next day.

Summit day finally arrived and started at 2.30am with a hurried cup of tea and biscuit that was needed to sustain us until our next meal at midday. It was absolutely freezing as we set off under the stars. We had received our briefing to minimise the risk of our water pipes freezing up and layered up to stop getting hypothermia. The track quickly became very steep and slippery and we really had to dig our toes into the mountainside to get any traction and heaved ourselves up the mountain one small step at a time. The one thing we decided not to do was to look up at the slopes above us. We just focused on putting one foot in front of the other and kept going. Several times as I hauled myself over the rocks I questioned whether I could do it. Fortunately I’d packed some rehydration packs to put in my water bottle to keep me going.

It took us four long hours to get to the top and you’ll notice from the photos that we didn’t quite make it for sunrise but we did make it to the top.

The last 200m are the toughest of all as this involves clambering over huge rocks, narrow icy ledges and sheer dropoffs. Anyone with a fear of heights should not attempt this mountain. There are a few cables which I held onto for dear life towards the top to help you to negotaiate the rocks.

For the final few metres there is a set of vertical iron bar steps to the ledge which marks the top and Lenana point at an altitude of 4985m. There are 3 ways to climb Mount Kenya but the other two routes Pt. Batian (5199m) and Pt. Nelion (5188m) require a lot of technical mountaineering skills and are even more dangerous. At the top we gave ourselves an emotional hug of congratulations and I just lay on the rocks trying to stay out of the wind before we hauled ourselves to the signpost for the required photo shoot. We had made it and now we had the task of getting back down the mountain safely and over the ridge towards Chogoria.

We didn’t stay long on the top as it was very cold and windy. Next came the very slippery descent as the path had ice and snow on it. We had to really concentrate on every step so that we did not slip and fall off the ledges or slide on the rough gravel between the rocks.

After descending about 200m we had a rest behind the rocks and looked out over the most spectacular Gorges Valley and lake that you can see in this photo.

We could also look left over Mackinder Valley. We had to negotiate a lot of rough steep scree to get down into the valley and every few steps you could hear someone slide on the small stones.

We arrived at some quite boggy land with a few pools glinting in the morning sun and many giant lobelias.

We stopped for for a late breakfast in the sun which had disappeared by noon so we pressed on to Nithi Campsite (3300m). This was a very long tiring walk along a ridge looking down on our right into the spectacular gorge where two aircraft had crashed – one just a week before. Francis was busy trying to spot the helicopter wreckage on the mountainside.

Along the ridge with the amazing views of the table top mountains in the heather zone, we came across the beautiful proteas plants.

We came off the ridge and arrived at the Nithi campsite (3300m) at about 4pm and just lay our tired bodies on the grass to recover. Our tent was prepared for us and we enjoyed one of the most peaceful and stunning landscapes of our whole trip before slipping into our sleeping bags around 7pm as this had been one very long and eventful day.

The next morning after breakfast with Ngari’s delicious pancakes and fruit, Francis took us on a short walk and scramble to Nithi Falls which were nestled below the path in a small gorge.

We then continued along the dirt road to Bandas camp. It was much warmer and very sunny and we could see the evidence of buffalo and elephant in the area. Fortunately we did not bump into any. Francis pointed out their tracks plus those of hyena and spotted other local creatures, including a beautiful chameleon as shown.

We crossed through a series of shady forest areas which were a great respite from the hot morning sun and admired the table top mountains in the distance.

At Meru Bandas camp (3000m) we were allocated a small cottage with sitting room, fireplace and an ensuite room with real beds and bedlinen. A total luxury after a lack of showers for five days. Thank goodness for the invention of wet wipes which prevented us from smelling to high heaven, given our very sweaty adventures.

Our final evening was spent enjoying the views from the camp, a short walk in the bamboo forest and a few card games by the roaring fire. Ngari’s wonderful culinary dinner creation magically appeared from his makeshift kitchen for the last time.

The last morning as we stepped out through in the early morning sunlight we caught a glimpse of the impala by the local steaming waterhole and admired the huge bamboo forest on either side of the dirt road. Suddenly we were all advised to stop in our tracks as Ngari had just spotted a single bull elephant on the road ahead. We had to stay put and despite trying to “smoke it out” by lighting up a few cigarettes, it stayed near the road and we were unable to pass it. In the end Francis phoned our driver Samuel who had to make the long drive up the rutted road to rescue us.

Our Mount Kenya peaceful and memorable adventures were over and it was time to make the long drive around the mountain to our safari lodge at Sweetwaters for a couple of nights. As there were few tourists we were treated to a luxury tent right next to the waterhole where we could enjoy watching the animals. We had a number of safari drives each morning and evening and were lucky enought to see a cheetah hunting an impala. We visited the Chimpanzee rescue park which had over 100 of these expressive animals rescued from across Africa.

We also got to meet Baraka the blind, black rhino where Abdullah allowed us to feed it some sugar cane.

Sweetwaters was a magical experience and highly recommended for anyone requiring some pampering, especially after a hard slog up a mountain. Their hot showers and comfy beds were heavenly and we made the most of them. Sadly all good things have to come to an end and we needed to make our own tracks home so we made it back to Nairobi in about 4 hours without any incident as the election results had all gone smoothly. Peace has thankfully prevailed in this beautiful country.

Note: This blog was not sponsored, the trek was self funded (by myself and Diane) and organised by Toudust. The climb up Mount Kenya was completed in memory of my father who sadly died on December 29th 2012 and helped to raise money for Parkinsons UK. A big thank you to those who kindly sponsored me and so far we have raised over £600 for this worthy cause. If you enjoyed this blog please consider a donation here: http://www.justgiving.com/kathryn-bullock

If you’d like to view more photos of my Mount Kenya trip on Flickr they can be viewed here

Practicalities of trekking in the Atlas Mountains with children

Thu, 03 Jan 2013 17:41:00 +0000

The Atlas Mountains are a wonderful destination for families looking to try a multi-day trek for the first time or attempt some more challenging peaks. Within easy reach from Marrakech the they offer a variety of moderate and challenging trails with plenty of interest en-route to keep the children interested.

Perhaps the most striking aspect for children will be the traditional Berber way of life in the mountains. It is hard to think of anywhere else within easy reach of Europe which offers such a marked cultural contrast and sense of perspective.

It is not unusual to walk through villages with no electricity, where local families wash their clothes in streams and water is collected from the well. Homes are traditional simple mud or concrete built structures and children are often seen out in the valleys tending their families' goats. It is a unique opportunity to give your children a more worldly perspective.

On trek you'll be provided with your own small team, including a local (English speaking) Berber Guide, local Berber cook and mule. The mules take the load and all you need to carry is a day pack with waterproofs, camera and water. We provide a spare mule, so the children can take it in turns to ride when they get tired.

Your meals are prepared by your cook from fresh ingredients, he'll get ahead of you and set up a delicious cooked picnic lunch at the side of the trail and an evening dinner at the end of the day.

The advantage of trekking with your own guide is that we can manage the pace to fit your family and make changes to the itinerary as you go along if necessary. Similarly with your own cook, you can let them know if there is anything your kids prefer not to eat.

Accommodation on trek is either camping or staying in village gites. In winter, spring and autumn we would usually use the village gites. These are basic village guesthouses. Your family would have a room to itself to sleep in, but bathroom facilities are shared. Hot showers are sometimes available.

Which trek?

We find that generally children prefer varied routes with features such as steep sections, small stream crossings etc. to long flat paths. Regular breaks for snacks and lunch are also very welcome. We also favour routes which offer a plan B in case you find it harder going than you expected.

Our favourite Atlas Mountains trek for families: Our three day valleys trek is perfect for families, with around 4-5 hours of walking per day plus leisurely stops for picnic lunches. There is plenty of interest on route, with stream crossings, lots of small Berber villages and some modest passes. The beauty of this rout is that if you find the first day tough going there are options to change the route for the second and third days to reduce walking. We include this trek by default in our family itineraries, but are happy to swap for a different option if preferred. With three days you can get far away from the relatively developed trailhead town of Imlil to see some of the more traditional Berber Villages.

A challenging trek for teenagers: If your family is up for a challenge, our four day Toubkal trek offers the best of both worlds with traditional Berber villages, beautiful valleys, stunning high altitude passes and the summit of North Africa's highest mountain, Toubkal.

Something more adventurous: Further afield than the Toubkal region, Ait Bougmez is even more untouched, with some wonderful scenery. The Ait Bougmez traverse is a fantastic longer trek for families wanting to get (further) away from it all on a longer trek without a any high altitude peaks or passes.

Two days valleys treks: If you are short of time, then you might want to consider instead a shorter two day one night trek. The walking distances are a little more concentrated and there is less room to shorten the walking days on this option.

If basic gite accommodation doesn't appeal: We would recommend using a nice comfortable guesthouse in Imlil (Douar Samra and Dar Adrar are both lovely for families) as a base for several day walks. There are several nice 3-5 hr walk options from Imlil, we provide mules, cook and guide as with the multi day trek, so you can still enjoy a lovely picnic lunch up on the trail. Please get in touch if you would prefer this option.

The disadvantage of the 2 days trek and day treks from Imlil is that you don't get quite the same exposure to the traditional villages of the Atlas Mountains as the villages encountered tend to be more developed with road access.

How old do children need to be?

We do not have any fixed age limits as children mature at different ages and what may be suitable for one may not be suitable for another of the same age. We definitely recommend that the children are at least used to going for walks at home. As parents it is your responsibility to judge suitability based on the information that we can provide in advance. On trek, our guides are experienced professional mountain guides and may judge that a route needs to be altered based on prevailing conditions and how the you and your children are progressing.

Children under 6 Years Old: Your child should be used to going for walks. It would be unlikely that a child under 6 will be willing to complete a multiday trek without some kind of assistance. We do provide an extra mule to ride for families. The mules are always led by their muleteer and we provide riding hats for the children. In judging whether your child is old enough to ride a mule, we ask that you take responsibility for judging whether they are mature enough to respond to instructions and hold on safely. In our experience this is somewhere around 4,5 or 6 years old depending on the child. Our smallest hats are suitable for children with head circumference from 48 - 52cm (if in doubt measure your child's head - start above the eyebrows, go past the temples above the ears and finish at the most protruding point at the back of the head). We believe it is good practice for children under 6 to be accompanied on the mule either by an older sibling or the muleteer. Please note, it is not possible to ride a mule for the entire duration of the trek as we will ask that children walk any steep, uneven or narrow sections of the route. With younger children there is the possibility of their parents carrying them. If you plan to do so, it is crucial that children are kept warm enough (body temperature drops without activity) and that you are confident of your ability to carry them.

6 – 12 Year Old Children: Children older than 6 will relish the opportunity to ride a mule, be rewarded by climbing up the passes and will be intrigued by the different ways of life locally. They usually enjoy chatting to the guide and learning a few words of Berber and Arabic, they will have memories from the trek which will last forever. Please note, it is not possible to ride a mule for the entire duration of the trek as we will ask that children walk steep, uneven or narrow sections of the route.

13 - 18 Year Old Children: These young adults will enjoy the challenge of tackling high passes and potentially the summit of Toubkal. They tend to enjoy spending time with the local guides, who enjoy chatting and explaining their own lives and traditions. If attempting to climb Toubkal, it is essential your child is fit and very well prepared for the challenge.

If attempting to climb Toubkal, we recommend your children are at least 12 years old. This is a recommendation, not a an enforced limit as suitability is down to the individual child. Children under 12 can attempt Toubkal, in considering whether this is suitable for your child, it is essential your child is mature enough to communicate symptoms of altitude sickness to you. And of course, it is essential that anybody attempting a challenging trek such as climbing Toubkal is fit, and very well prepared for the challenge.

Trekking in the Simien Mountains

Tue, 18 Dec 2012 17:13:00 +0000

Read our low down on trekking in the Simien Mountains, with information on routes, seasons and how to organise a trek.

The Simien Mountains in Ethiopia are simply put, one of the best trekking destinations in the world. Jaw dropping views, wall to wall sunshine, generous hospitality and rare wildlife combine to make for an unforgettable trek. The Simien Mountains National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site boasting rare populations of wallia ibex, gelada baboon and Ethiopian Wolf, alongside a rich and diverse flora and birdlife.

Highlights of the Simien Mountains National Park:

Taking in the 360 degree views at Imet Gogo and marvelling at the precipitous paths that locals have to navigate to make it up onto the ridge
Spotting the graceful Wallia Ibex framed by the most incredible mountain panorama and trying to inch closer to capture that perfect image before it moves on
Watching the coffee beans roast over the fire in a primitive mud and straw village hut
Watching the birds of prey soar on the thermals over terrifying drops of up to 1000m

Route Options

Virtually all trekkers follow the same route along the ridge of the Simien Mountains National Park that traces a route from Sankaber to Geech to Chenek Camp. This trail can be completed in 3 to 5 days with 4x4s having access to Sankaber and Chenek at either end of the trek. We recommend spending 4 to 5 days on the route as this gives you time to get to Imet Gogo (a standout view) and climb Mount Buahit.

From Chenek, those keen on trekking for longer have a number of options. Many are tempted by the allure of Ras Dashen, Ethiopia’s highest peak, but apart from the altitude this route has little to commend it. Several brave trekkers attempt a multi-week traverse all the way to Lalibella, an incredible walk through rarely visited parts. Alternatively trekkers can head to the lowlands via Sonar, Mekarba and Mullet campsites, a lovely route with several swimming spots in the rivers and rarely visited camps.

Trekking with Tourdust in the Simien Mountains

Tourdust arranges private treks to the Simien Mountains either from Debark or from Addis Ababa and including other parts of Ethiopia. We usually recommend a 5 day trek in the Simien Mountains which gives an extra day at Geech Camp to explore Imet Gogo and an extra day at Chenek to head up Mount Buahit for a sense of achievement before heading back to Gonder. The four day option follows the same route as the 5 day trek, but with less time to enjoy the viewpoints from Geech Camp. The three day option is more of a compromise and doesn't cover the stretch from Geech to Chenek Camp which arguably offers the best views and undoubtedly offers a better chance of spotting Wallia Ibex. If you have more time then we strongly recommend an extended 8 day Simien trek that adds on 3 days of trekking from Chenek to the lowlands to the standard 5 day route.

Whilst you are there? Fitting the Simien Mountains into your Ethiopia Holidays

It would be criminal to go all that way to Ethiopia and only visit the Simian Mountains. As a priority you will want to make room to spend a day in Gonder (you’ll be passing through anyway to get to the park and there are some fascinating castles) and a day or two in Lalibella (unmissable thanks to its countless ancient rock hewn churches). If you have more time then you can include a Simien Mountains trek as part of the popular Northern Historical Circuit, which includes stops in Bahir Dar, Axum and Makele.

Other highlights of Ethiopia worth prolonging your visit include the fascinating ethnographics of the Lower Omo Valley and the wilderness of the Danakil Depression. Both of these trips would require an extra week at least.

Simien Mountains National Park Fees

As a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Simien Mountains National Park has a very well organised set up. Trekkers need to sign in at the park office in Debark. Regulations govern minimum pay standards for guides, cooks, muleteers and scouts. Although guides aren't formally required, rates aren't high, most guides are trained to a very good standard and have a depth of knowledge about the flora and fauna of the park. Given the minimal outlay it seems churlish to deny the employment opportunity. Scouts are still required and carry rifles throughout your time in the park. This is always a cause for concern for visitors, but is really just a throw back to the old days then the mountains were full of bandits and the scouts were paid to protect the villagers.

Images of the Simien Mountains

Other Resources:

When is best to trek in the Simien Mountains?

View our collection of Ethiopian treks, tours and holidays

Morocco: Cultural Notes

Mon, 17 Dec 2012 15:44:00 +0000

Religion and Culture

Morocco is a Muslim country. The Islam faith is based on five pillars:

1) Belief in Allah (God)

2) Ramadan – a month of fasting for adults between the hours of sunrise and sunset. The timings of this change every year.

3) Prayer 5 times a day. The call to prayer is unavoidable, you will almost certainly hear a muezzin singing from a minaret to announce prayer time. It is a magical sound in the medina, when the singing seems to echo around the roof tops.

4) Haj – Every adult should attempt a pilgrimage to Mecca during their life time

5) Alms for the poor – you will often see beggars outside of mosques on a Friday, hoping to benefit from the Muslim value of generosity for the poor.

Cultural Do's and Don'ts

Alcohol is available in tourist restaurants, but outside of the cities it is less available. If you are served alcohol, don’t drink in view of a mosque.

Whilst Morocco is one of the more forward thinking states in the region, freedom of speech is different to that in the West. Don’t openly criticise the religion or monarchy.

Don’t indulge in public displays of affection.

Do try and learn a few words of Arabic before you go so that you can greet people in their own language.

Non-muslims are not permitted inside mosques.

Dress and Attire

Women’s attire in Morocco varies dramatically depending on where you are. In modern towns and cities, such as Rabat and Agadir, you will see younger women in Western dress, without head coverings. At the beach, these same women will be in bikinis. Away from the larger cities and within the medinas, attires tends to be much more conservative with women covering their heads (sometimes their faces as well) not showing any flesh. This is the same whether on or off the beach. Children are exempt from this.

There is no expectation for Western women and girls to cover themselves, but, out of respect for the local culture and your own comfort, we suggest that you dress on the conservative side. That is to say, avoid skimpy tops and short skirts. Short trousers and t-shirts are fine, but avoid bearing your shoulders and showing too much cleavage.

On the beach, away from larger cities, you may feel a bit self-conscious in a bikini. You may feel a bit less exposed if you wear swimming shorts and a tankini top. If you prefer a bikini, then try taking a beach dress / sarong to wear on the beach and then take off to go swimming.

Men in Morocco also tend to cover themselves up. You are unlikely to see a Moroccan man wearing shorts, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t. On the beach, men wear and swim in Western style swimming shorts.

Agafay Desert

Mon, 17 Dec 2012 15:20:00 +0000

About 40km outside of Marrakech, the landscape slowly changes from urban to rural farm land until you reach the Agafay desert. Don’t be misled by its name, this is not a Saharan-style sandy desert; it is more of a barren, deserted plateau. Stretching for miles, this semi-lunar terrain is unforgiving in the summer months, but in the cooler seasons it provides a breath-taking environment, one that is often over-looked by those wanting to shuttle between the Atlas Mountains and Marrakech.

Local villages have been driven out by the lack of water, so, apart from some local shepherds and the odd 4x4, the area is free for exploration and makes a fantastic camel trekking or hiking destination. The snow-capped Atlas Mountains form a stunning backdrop and walking on the seemingly endless plateau is easy going. Following small river gorges and walking up the small hills is very pleasurable and accessible, with constant rewards of far-reaching views. A picnic lunch will be arranged en-route, as can camels if you prefer to explore on four legs.

Your trek in Agafay can be enjoyed as a day trip from Marrakech but you may prefer to stay in this tranquil environment and sleep under the stars. We can arrange wild camping or if you would like a little more comfort, we can arrange for you to stay at the nearby Scarabeo camp.

A Guide to Morocco's Atlantic Coast

Mon, 17 Dec 2012 14:26:00 +0000

Morocco benefits from mile upon mile of sandy beaches situated on its Atlantic coastline. These beaches in Morocco are perfectly geared up for water sports fans, but are not the cocktail and sun lounger beaches that some sun-worshippers would be hoping for. The large Atlantic rollers are ideal for surfing and body boarding, something adults and older children will love. Camels, horses and quad bikes are readily available on popular beaches where children (or adults) can enjoy a short ride. Sun loungers and umbrellas are available to rent, some beaches have a small café as well, but facilities vary from place to place.

The beaches are fun for people watching and playing in the waves and children will love building sand castles. However, the Atlantic surf can be quite rough so it is more a pursuit for confident swimmers. If you are in Morocco for longer, we recommend that you stay somewhere with a pool so that you can enjoy the beach atmosphere and crashing waves, but then relax around a cleaner and safer pool environment where you can relax in swim-wear without the concern of revealing too much flesh on the beach.

Top Beach Destinations in Morocco

Essaouira

Located on Morocco's West coast, Essaouira is the epitome of laid-back Morocco. A popular domestic tourist destination, the town has a small, stress free medina and a busy fishing port, ensuring fresh fish every day. Inside the old town, there are art shops and souvenir stalls, with none of the selling pressure you see in the larger Moroccan cities. The emphasis here is on relaxing and people-watching, visitors spend most of their time promenading on the ramparts and enjoying mint tea in the square. The beach is large and windy, making it a haven for water sports lovers. Kite surfing and wind surfing are popular here, as well as regular surfing.

Rural Essaouira

There are a number of lovely small hotels in peaceful rural locations within 20 minutes drive of Essaouira. The hotels are usually walled gardens with pools, we would recommend you have your own hire car if staying at these properties

Sidi Kaouki

Just to the south of Essaouira lies the small Atlantic village of Sidi Kaouki. One of the more family friendly beach villages, this is a laid back and sleepy place with just a handful of cafes. To the north of the village are some interesting rock pools at low tide, to the south, the sandy beach seems to stretch endlessly into the horizon and if you are prepared to walk for 10 minutes along the beach, it won’t be too long until you find a deserted stretch of sand. This spot is perfect for surfers and in the summer months, when the surf is gentler, it is a great base for beginners. As is the case in Essaouira, it can get windy here in the summer months, especially in the afternoons, so it pays to hit the beach in the morning and then spend the afternoon lazing around a pool.

Mirleft

In the south of Morocco, benefitting from a year round temperate climate, Mirleft has some excellent beaches and some of the best boutique coastal accommodation in the country. Even better, it is still fairly off the beaten track. The coast here is wild, with pounding waves and strong currents and lovely sandy beaches. On national holidays the beaches are packed as this is a popular Moroccan destination but there are few tourists here and outside of the country holidays the beaches are almost deserted. The village is well spread out, with the centre away from the sea and the accommodation tends to be in more isolated spots making a car very useful. Mirleft makes for an excellent base for exploring some of the nearby towns such as Sidi Ifni and Tafraout, whilst staying in fantastic accommodation.

Oualidia

Situated on a small lagoon on the Atlantic Coast, Oualidia is a well-heeled town, slowly growing in popularity for both domestic and international tourists. Whilst most of the Moroccan Atlantic coast is exposed to the elements, the unique tidal lagoon offers calm waters and abundant birdlife: there is a chance of seeing flamingos in the winter months. Water sports fans will love exploring the lagoon by kayak or boat, whilst for keen surfers, the wild Atlantic Coast offers crashing waves and great surf. Food-wise, the region is particularly well-known for its oyster production. Sea food lovers can also enjoy fresh lobster, crab and red mullet.

Agadir

Well-known as a package destination, the town’s beaches are clean and full of tourists. The town itself is geared towards package tourists and holds little charm. The airport is a convenient location for exploring the couth of the country, but you really wouldn’t be missing out if you avoided the town completely.

Tafraoute

Mon, 17 Dec 2012 13:28:00 +0000

Nestled in the Anti-Atlas, Tafraoute attracts only a small handful of tourists. It is a wealthy town, on account of the large number of migrant workers sending money home from abroad and evidence of this can be seen in the architecture and the amenities. There are some lovely small restaurants and great views of the surrounding mountains. The area is popular with rock climbers and it’s not hard to see why; dramatic rock formations, beautiful valleys and off the beaten track location mean the beauty of Mother Nature can be enjoyed in relative peace.

About an hour’s drive from the village is a beautiful gorge which is best explored on foot. Passing fig & olive trees, date palms and an ambling stream, the views are fantastic. Also of interest are the ‘blue rocks’ painted as an art installation by Belgian artist Jean Verame in the 1980’s. Beautiful rocks, in an almost lunar landscape, have been painted royal blue with a smattering of red, creating a bizarrely enjoyable sight. Another, more dubious, rock sight is le chapeau de Napoleon a rock formation that is claimed by the guide books to resemble Napoleon’s hat. I remain inconvinced. The lion’s face however, on the other side of town, is instantly recognisable.

Hot in the summer and still pleasantly warm in the winter, a stay in the summer months makes a pool a necessity. The largest and most expensive hotel in town, Hotel Les Amandiers, is the best place to stay, but it is stuck in the 1980’s with out-dated décor and sullen staff. Rooms are soulless, but clean, and the restaurant is uninspiring. That said, the pool (and views) are fabulous and the bar serves alcohol.

A family pottery class in Morocco

Tue, 11 Dec 2012 12:09:00 +0000

As a family with three young children, it is not often that we manage to find an activity that is equally absorbing for all of us. In the past, we have found walking a very good solution, but outside of this we can end up in a conflict of play park vs culture. If there is one thing that my daughters are passionate about, it is crafting. Colouring, sticking, gluing you name it, it will occupy them for hours. My husband, having long since resigned himself to the a life in a predominantly female household, has adapted well, but there is only so long that such activities will hold his attention before he starts to roam. And if I’m honest, there’s only so much time can spend drawing rainbows before I get restless. So, it was with a certain amount of hesitation that I suggested a family pottery class on our last holiday in Morocco. The girls were enthusiastic, my husband was agreeable and I was slightly unsure. We are very good about going walking together, or playing on the beach, but would it be possible to find an activity that would absorb the adults without going over the children’s heads?

We met our teacher in the workshop. He spoke not a work of English but had a wide grin, he didn’t even grit his teeth (visibly) when my three year old nearly sent all of his pottery samples flying. Our first activity was to make a pot on the wheel, Patrick Swayze eat your heart out. Our teacher patiently demonstrated the technique to us and then we each had a turn. Some of the children were more enthusiastic than others, but everyone had a go, with a reasonable amount of success. None of us were naturals, but we definitely got full marks for enthusiasm. Surprisingly, despite the fact that only one of us could have a go at a time, the children were happy to stand and watch each other.

Flushed with our success at the pottery wheel, we then moved to a table to start making pots, which evolved into lanterns. Again, our teacher demonstrated the technique and we were then left to create, with him gently interjecting from time to time to refine our creations. Admittedly the children needed help, but we were under no time pressure and could all enjoy the opportunity to be creative. As we worked, the pots rather ambitiously evolved into lanterns. Our teacher took this all in his stride, albeit slightly amused by our ambition, and helped us to finish off our creations which were left to dry in the sun.

The next part of our class was to try our hand at Tadelakt, which is a traditional type of plaster used in Moroccan buildings. After selecting the colour, most important, we were encouraged to get our hands dirty, smooth the surfaces and start applying the mixture. This was quite hard work for the children and they slowly started to lose interest, returning to the work table to make some pottery animals. My husband and I, meanwhile, were in our element, decorating the walls and trying to outdo each other’s creativity. Again, our teacher was on hand to give some friendly help.

By the end of the session, we had earned ourselves a large lunch which we enjoyed whilst our works of art dried in the fierce midday sun. The biggest challenge of the holiday was getting our works of art back to the UK on the plane but they now sit proudly on our mantelpiece, complete with candles. The conclusion all round was that the class had been an overwhelming success. All five of us really enjoyed ourselves, a lovely way to spend a morning together.

Taroudant

Tue, 11 Dec 2012 10:45:00 +0000

Dubbed by some (perhaps a little over-enthusiastically) as a mini Marrakech, Taroudant is a small walled town to the north east of Agadir in the Souss Valley. Occupying a position of historical importance due to its location on the trans-Saharan trading route, it is a very pleasant town, with some very well preserved ramparts that surround the medina. Once inside the ramparts, there is little to remind you of Marrakech, other than that it is a Moroccan town. However, there are some delightful souks which you can explore and indulge in some low-stress retail therapy. It is possible to explore the town in a caleche (horse and cart) the tour takes you around the perimeter of the walls and will also take you to a point where you can walk on the ramparts.

A surfing lesson in Morocco

Sun, 09 Dec 2012 14:38:00 +0000

My six year old daughter was desperate to learn to surf. Her father is a keen surfer, but ever since an episode in Australia back in 2004 when I nearly broke my nose, I have been a little reluctant; shielding myself from the pursuit with my children. However, in the spirit of encouraging my children to be more adventurous, I was starting to run out of excuses so, when we last went to Morocco, I dusted off my wetsuit and promised that we would have a lesson together.

On the morning of our lesson, my daughter woke bright eyed and excited. I was apprehensive. As we walked down to meet our guide, however, it was a sunny day and the sea looked calm and inviting. Too calm, unfortunately, we were forced to abandon our plans and wait for better waves the next day. My daughter was disappointed, I on the other hand, was somewhat relieved at my stay of execution.

Tomorrow came quickly, however, and the next day we returned to the surf camp which was alive and buzzing with bodies; surf was officially up. Unfortunately for my daughter, conditions were now too rough and it was judged that she shouldn’t have her lesson, mine, however, could go ahead. She hid her disappointment well, with the incentive on an ice cream her sadness soon abated. I, on the other hand was now on the brink, forced to be brave and face my surfing fears.

The session began with a briefing, going through an assessment of the conditions and safety. They were very thorough and then insisted upon a full warm up before we were to enter the sea. We were then divided up into groups and the more experienced headed off with their guides, I was left for a one on one session, as they could obviously see the fear in my eyes. I started off learning the basic techniques and then went into the water to spend some time body boarding, which I absolutely loved. Catching waves and then coasting in to the shallows. My cheer-leading children came along to watch and play on the beach, my husband came to laugh, but I didn’t care, it was great fun. We then turned to the rather more tricky business of trying to get me to stand up on the board – this was my downfall back in 04. However, before even attempting to stand up, I needed to learn how to choose a wave and then catch it. My instructor was most amused by my attempt to catch every wave coming in my direction. Slow down, he said to me, there is always time, there is always another wave. For a working mother of three, there is never time and I am always trying to do a zillion things at once. Suddenly, the opportunity to step back, focus on the waves and wait for the right one felt very, very appealing. I stopped stressing and worrying and just started to enjoy myself, slowing myself down to a surfer’s pace.

Catching waves is one thing, standing up is quite another. This isn’t something that comes at once, it takes practice and patience and certainly wasn’t something that I could master in my first lesson. But I had a lot of fun trying (as did my family watching) Being in the sea, focussing on the surf, all my other worries seemed to disappear and I really enjoyed myself.

Mount Toubkal

Fri, 08 Jun 2012 16:15:00 +0100

At 4,167m, Mount Toubkal is the highest peak in the Atlas Mountains. It is a non-technical summit requiring only a reasonable degree of fitness and determination. Toubkal (often called Jbel Toubkal) is easily reached from Marrakech and lays at the heart of a network of trekking trails that offer striking high altitude mountain scenery, lush valleys and relatively untouched Berber communities. Toubkal is climbable year round, albeit in winter, from Nov – May, snow settles above 3000m and crampons and ice axes are required.

The Trailhead: Trails all start from Imlil (1740m), a large picturesque village set at the head of the Imlil Valley surrounded by walnut groves, apple trees and bisected by a rushing river.

Imlil – Toubkal Refuge: The most direct route to the Toubkal Refuge is a 4 hr uphill walk from Imlil via the shrine of sidi chamharouch (2350m). As this is a busy trail and is usually the descent route, most opt for a more scenic approach via the neighbouring Azzaden Valley.

Toubkal Refuge (3207m): Whichever route you take there is no avoiding a night at the refuge. Dorms are crowded and bathroom facilities leave much to be desired. In good weather avoid the dorms and camp.

Toubkal Refuge – Tizi n Toubkal Pass (South Col): From the Refuge, the trail zig-zags up the South Col, a long and moderately steep scree slope ascending 750m to the Tizi-n Toubkal Pass

Approaching the Tizi n Toubkal Pass at 3950m

Tizi n Toubkal Pass – Summit: From the pass, the trail traces a dramatic ridge to the summit, with spectacular mountain views to the N/S/E/W. It is an easy scramble set well back from the precipitous drop of the ridge.

Summit 4167m: With good visibility, the summit of Toubkal offers stunning views over the surrounding High Atlas Mountains and out to the Sahara Desert in the far distance.

Optional Descent via North Col: The majority head back down the same route, but for the adventurous there is a longer more dramatic descent via the North Col, requiring moderate scrambling from the summit.

The North Col: The North Col is a classical U-shaped Valley offers cracking scenery and a more remote feel, with few other trekkers.

Remains of a 1960s Portuguese Army cargo plane: The plane went down with its four crew in the 1960s and much of the wreckage remains scattered eerily about the mountain-side.

Back to the refuge: Anywhere between 4 -6 hours later, weary trekkers arrive back at the refuge for a well-deserved lunch. Many descend back to Imlil and Marrakech the same day.

Toubkal Route choices

2 Days: The two day route is a simple up & down via the same trail from Imlil. The first day is spent getting from Marrakech to the mountains with an afternoon walk up to the refuge. The second day tackles the summit, before the long descent back to Imlil and on to Marrakech.

3 Days: With three days, you can tackle Toubkal via the neighbouring (and very picturesque) Azzaden Valley. This is a reasonably challenging trek with long days on day two and three. A highlight is the traverse from the head of the Azzaden Valley over the Aguelzim Pass (3450m) on day two. See our 3 Day Toubkal Circular Trek.

4-5 Days: Arguably the most balanced route, offering a great taster of relatively untouched remote Berber villages, valley walking and high passes and peaks. The five day route crosses from the Imlil Valley to the Azzaden Valley and on to the remote D’knt Valley via low passes before weaving its way back via up-valley passes to tackle Toubkal on the final day. See our 4-5 Day Villages and Toubkal Trek.

6 Days: For seasoned trekkers. The 6 day route follows a trail through remote areas over several stunning high passes, wild camping at night. The trail passes by Lak D’Ifni where there is usually an opportunity for a spot of relaxation and swimming. It is a more demanding trek, but the rewards are immense. See our 6 Day Toubkal Trek.

Weather on Toubkal

It is possible to climb Jebel Toubkal any time, but spring is arguably the best. In winter the mountain is covered in snow and a skilled guide, crampons and ice axes are a must. In spring the weather is warmer and there is still some snow cover over the loose scree making for perfect trekking conditions. Summer and Autumn can be hot, and the scree is loose, but an early start makes it more than manageable.

A detailed weather forecast for Toubkal and at varying elevations in the Atlas Mountains can be found at mountain-forecast.com

Health, Fitness & Experience Requirements

Outside the winter months, Jebel Toubkal is accessible as long as you are reasonably fit and determined. No specialist gear is required and with a guide and mule to take the load the task is made much easier. It is tough work and if you prefer to take it a little easier, there are some lovely trails featuring passes and fantastic mountain views (for example see our three day valleys trek LINK)

In winter it is recommended you have some prior experience with crampons and ice axes before attempting Toubkal.

Toubkal is at altitude and altitude sickness is a possibility, severe conditions are rare (primarily because the highest overnight is only 3200m), but mild symptoms such as head-aches, lack of appetite and mild nausea can be common on the summit day.

What equipment do you need to trek Toubkal?

You don't really need any specialist equipment outside winter months, but common sense applies. You will need hiking shoes or boots with a full-tread sole and good weatherproof clothing, a good sleeping bag (these can be rented) and of course, a first aid kit.

The Refuges

There are two refuges on Jebel Toubkal (right next to each other), the Neltner Hut (Club Alpin Francais) and the newer Mouflons Refuge. Both offer very basic dormitory style accommodation and passable shared bathroom facilities. It is possible to avoid the dorms and camp in the summer months.

Maps and Guide Books

Toubkal Hiking Map: Superb 1:50000 map covering the majority of the trekking area around Toubkal (and with a handy Marrakech Medina street map on the reverse)
Moroccan High Atlas Mountaineering Guide: Detailed mountaineering guidebook to the area.

Historic harbour of Cavtat

Tue, 05 Jun 2012 11:53:00 +0100

Cavtat is a perfectly sized historic harbour town 20km South of Dubrovnik. Set in a secluded bay with ocean on either side, glamorous yachts moor stern too the promenade adding a touch of glamour to the densely packed row of harbour-front restaurants.

Activity in the town is clearly revolved around tourism, but Cavtat manages to retain its charm and peace and is a lovely base to relax and take a trip or two into Dubrovnik.

It would be easy to spend a week here simply relaxing by the sea. The peninsula is the best choice for beaches, with a shade-dappled boardwalk giving access to pebble beaches and enough rocky coves to grab your own private pitch on the Adriatic. Regular, reliable ferries ply the 45 minute journey straight into the old town of Dubrovnik.

Cavtat is only 5 minutes drive from the airport, and some planes do fly overhead, but this does little to damage the charm of Cavtat.

The Atlas Mountains

Thu, 03 May 2012 15:43:00 +0100

With snow-capped peaks, lush valleys & traditional mud-built Berber villages, the Atlas Mountains offer superb trekking and a wonderful respite from the madness, heat and noise of Marrakech. Read on for our guide to accommodation in the Atlas Mountains, trekking options and weather.

The High Atlas Mountains are the most easily reached section of the Atlas Mountains and arguably the most spectacular, the High Atlas Mountains, are only a 2 hr drive from Marrakech centred around the trail head town of Imlil and peak of Toubkal. This guide is primarily concerned with this area.

The area can be reached in a (long) day trip from Marrakech. However given the 2 hr drive each way, we would rather recommend staying overnight. Multi-day treks are a wonderful way to experience the landscape and traditional Berber culture, or you can simply relax on the rooftop terrace of a charming mountain guesthouse and take in the views over a good book and a few gentle short walks.

Accommodation in the High Atlas Mountains

Since the arrival of the (deservedly) legendary Kasbah Du Toubkal, the Atlas Mountains have built a reputation for indulgent and stylish hotels. Kasbah Bab Ourika stands out for pure indulgence and majestic situation. Douar Samra wins the charm award hands down with a wonderfully earthy rambling village property with a just-so shabby chic. And whilst the Kasbah Du Toubkal is more expensive, the superb terraces, lounges and views pull together to create an superb stay.

Hotels are clustered around three broad areas, the Ourika Valley, Ouirgane and Imlil. The Ourika Valley is closest to Marrakech located in the foothills of the Atlas range. It is an incredibly picturesque valley, but is much more densely populated and heavily frequented by tourist coaches with less good walking options. Generally speaking we don't recommend this area with the exception of Kasbah Bab Ourika, a very high class boutique hotel that occupies a prominent hill in the heart of the valley. The Ouirgane area has a number of good options including the superb Domain Malika. However, if you are trying to avoid the heat of summer and or you are keen on walking then the Imlil area is our favoured choice, the scenery is most dramatic, temperatures are a little cooler and the village is at the heart of a wonderful network of walking trails.

Trekking in the High Atlas Mountains

Basing yourself in a hotel (or even on a day trip from Marrakech) there are several good day walks possible in the Imlil area and the near-bye Ouirgane National Park. The area around Imlil offers walks to neighbouring high passes or up to the shrine on the main trail to Toubkal, whilst Ouirgane and Ourika offer less dramatic more low key scenery and gentler walking. See here for our guide to trekking in the Atlas Mountains with children

A nicely balanced itinerary might include 2 to 3 nights in Douar Samra (or Kasbah Du Toubkal if you can afford it) with one or two day walks and plenty of time to soak up the views from the roof terraces and gardens. It is quite feasible to walk on your own, but trails aren’t marked and guides are very good, relatively in-expensive and highly recommended.

A multi-day trek really is the best way to experience the mountains. Most hotels reside in relatively modernised villages, but on a multi-day trek you can explore more traditional mud-built Berber villages, some beautiful valleys and high mountain scenery. All our multi-day treks include a guide, cook (who will prepare a cooked picnic lunch on the trail, dinners and breakfast all from delicious fresh ingredients) and mules to carry your gear.

Two to three day valleys and villages treks are not dis-similar to the concept of a Nepalese tea-house trek. These treks are designed with a lighter itinerary (typically 5-6 hrs max walking per day), stay overnight in traditional village gites and where possible your guide will take you for tea in a village home. These treks avoid the more difficult high passes staying below 3000m, making them perfect for winter and for those whose primary objective is enjoyment rather than testing peaks and passes. We tend to focus most of our valleys treks around the Azzaden and D'knt Valleys as the combination of scenery, varied trails and traditional villages is hard to beat. We have recently discontinued the traverse trek from Imlil to Ourika Valley traverse, because a recent road has been built along most of the route.

Toubkal can be climbed on treks from 2 days up to 6. We don’t recommend the 2 day route as it heads up and back down via the same, over-trafficked route. In three days, you can summit Toubkal and enjoy the wonderful scenery of the Azzaden Valley. In four or five days, there is also time to explore the more remote valleys and villages. The 6 day Toubkal Circuit is the ultimate Atlas Mountain trek, taking a broad circle around Toubkal, reaching the remote and striking high alpine areas around Lak D’Ifni.

It is worth noting that you will need a good sleeping bag (it gets cold at night at altitude), waterproofs and good walking shoes or boots if you are planning on going on a multi-day trek.

Accommodation on multi-day treks usually involves some combination of camping, village gites (guesthouses) and mountain huts (where necessary). Gites are traditional village homes that serve as an inn for guests and can be a wonderful cultural experience. Rooms are very simple and there are bare bones shared bathrooms. If you’d rather not experience the shared facilities, then we can offer two to three day treks staying at the Azzaden trekking lodge, a three (en-suite) bedroom village outpost of the Kasbah Du Toubkal in the Azzaden Valley.

#1. See our collection of treks in the Atlas Mountains: Trekking in the Atlas Mountains
#2. See our guide to climbing Toubkal: Guide to climbing Toubkal
#3. See details of accommodation on trek in the Atlas Mountains: Gites, huts and camping in the Atlas Mountains
#4. See a customer's detailed review of the Toubkal Circuit Customer’s account of a Toubkal Circuit trek

Weather in the Atlas Mountains

The Atlas Mountains offer a typically warm, dry and sunny climate that makes them a perfect year-round destination. However trekkers need to be aware of snow and freezing temperatures at high altitudes in winter:

Spring (April - May) & Autumn (Sep - October) are unarguably the optimum time to visit, with perfect temperatures and the added bonus of spring growth and autumn colours.

Summer (July - August): In summer the high Atlas Mountains offer a cool respite from the 40 degrees C plus temperatures in Marrakech. The valleys of the High Atlas around Imlil typically experience temperatures in the range of low 30 degrees C during the height of the day, with the lower altitudes of the Ourika Valley and Ouirgane National Park hotter (often too hot for walking). There is a risk of afternoon thunder storms and heavy rain.

Winter:(November - March): Expect mild day time temperatures (10-20 degrees C), cooler night-time temperatures (down to 5 degrees at Imlil, and well below zero at altitude on Toubkal) with the high passes and peaks thick with snow cover. If you are planning a multi day trek, please note that during these months, crampons and ice axes are required for any treks above 3000m.

#1. See our guide to trekking in the Atlas Mountains in winter: winter trekking in the Atlas Mountains
#2. Detailed forecast for Imlil and Toubkal: Mountain Weather Forecast

The Sahara Desert: Erg Chebbi vs Erg Chegaga

Sun, 08 Apr 2012 18:05:00 +0100

One of the absolute highlights of a trip to Morocco is seeing the vast Saharan sand dunes and camping under the stars. In Morocco, you have the choice between two broad areas where you can visit proper dunes; the Erg Chebbi dunes near to Merzouga and the Erg Chegaga dunes close to M'hamid. Both sets of dunes offer a fantastic experience and both involve betweeen 8 - 10 hours in the car. Choosing which dunes to visit depends on your other plans in Morocco and where else you intend to visit. Whichever one you choose, there is nothing quite like watching the sunset in the peace of the desert.

Erg Chebbi

The better known of the two sets of dunes, Erg Chebbi is the more established and as a consequence is more developed. It's ease of access is a bonus - the drive to Merzouga is long - apporximately 10 hours, but there are places of interest to visit along the way, such as Ait Ben Haddou, Dades Valley, the Valley of the roses and Todra Gorge. The excursion out to Erg Chebbi is possible in 3 days / 2 nights, but we strongly advise that you take your time over at least 4 days / 3 nights and enjoy the sites along the way. Once you reach Merzouga, it is a 2 hour camel trek out to a camp in the dunes. Camps vary in size and location but be warned that they don't tend to be particularly isolated, so you may well hear the beat of another camp's drums drifting across the dunes. This doesn't necessarialy ruin the experience, but it does take away from the wilderness feel. The real bonus of Erg Chebbi is that it can be nicely fitted into an itinerary involing Marrakech & Fes as it sits about half way between the two.

Erg Chegaga

Erg Chegaga is a much younger destination, as owing to border disputes with Algeria, tourists have only been visitng since the 1990's. That said, it is becoming more popular and there are more camps than there used to be. As far as solitude is concerned, however, it still has the upper hand over Erg Chebbi. The journey from Marrakech is about 9 hours, but the last two have to be by 4X4 as the road is not sealed once you pass the gate way town of M'hamid. The journey down to Erg Chegaga is fascinating, You can add a visit to Ait Ben Haddou along the way and then follow the Draa Valley and the many oases & crumbling Kasbahs dotted along the way. Once you reach the small town of Mhamid, you can continue on to one of the camps on the dunes, or you can trek by camel direct from there. The dunes themselves are not as big as out at Erg Chegaga, but the desert is somehow more vast and wild here. Erg Chegag offers the chance for some true wild camping and saves you a couple of hours in the car. It is perfectly possible to manage a visit to Erg Chegaga in 3 days, but we recommend visting the dunes and then spending time in one of the palm groves and at Ait Ben Haddou as well.

The Enchanting Souks of Marrakech

Sun, 08 Apr 2012 17:45:00 +0100

Marrakech has got to be one of my favourite cities. The atmosphere in the main square never fails to electrify me. Whether it's eating dinner at one of the food stalls, watching the sunset from a roof top terrace over-looking the Koutoubia or wandering amongst the snake charmers, story telllers and acrobats I always find myself heading there in the evenings whenever I visit. Whilst you can use taxis and horse drawn carriages to get around, I prefer to navigate the medina by foot. I love stumbling across parts of the souks I have never seen before and getting ridiculously lost. only to emerge an hour later back where I started! The cultural sites are also not to be sniffed at, with big hitters such as the Palais el Badi and the Bahia Palace and, further out of town at the Majorelle Gardens. Travelling there recently with my children, I have seen the city from a new perspective, discovering a fantastic ice cream stand in the Djemaa el Fna and a lovely roof top cafe in the souks, a perfect place to rest weary shopping feet and listen to the evocative call to prayer interspersed with the sounds of horns beeping and traders shouting. Every time I visit, I try to take one photo that encapsulates Marrakech and what it means to me. So far, I've not quite managed to bring it all to life in one shot, but I hope you enjoy some of my favourites. We have a more detailed guide to Marrakech and suggested highlights to visit here

A family holiday in Morocco - 6 year old's point of view

Sun, 08 Apr 2012 15:17:00 +0100

We took our three children aged 6, 4 & 3 to Morocco on a trip to Marrakech and then out to the desert. Our six year old kept a journal of our holiday and has kindly agreed for me to publish it here (with a few spelling corrections).

Tuesday

I am 6 years old and I went to Morocco with my Mummy, Daddy and 2 sisters. We went on a plane to get there and we had pancakes at the airport. I watched a film on the plane and did colcour by numbers. Then we went to our hotel, which is called a riad. Then we went to the square and lots of people offered us toy snakes but we didn't want them. It was very noisy - there was lots of drumming. Then I heard the calling for prayer. The man at the top of the mosque sang for people to come to pray, it disn't sound like singing we do at school. I had pizza for dinner.

Wednesday

I had breakfast on the roof! Today I drove over a huge mountain. After driving over a mountain I stopped at Ait Ben Haddou. I climbed buildings that looked like enormous sand castles and they were made of sand, mud and straw. I climbed a great stone hill. If you wanted some exercise it was fun.

Thursday

Today I had breakfast by the pool. I loved the view of the pool. I went in the pool and me and Mummy were the only ones in it. We went for a walk and saw lots of cacti and palm trees and Daddy said we were in an oasis. An oasis is a patch of desert where there is lots of water and crops can grow as in the other part of the desert only cacti can grow. We were given peacock feathers.

Friday

Today I had breakfast by the pool. I had bread, hot chocolare, jam, banana and apple. We had a very long drive throug the rocky desert. First we drove through the rocky desert and then past a few mountains. We stayed at a guest house and our room was in a tent. Nancy the owner showed us her house and paintings. She is an artist. She gave us some post cards that she has painted. After dinner, the men taught me African drumming.

Saturday

Today I had breakfast and cake because it was my sister's birthday and there was lots of drumming. The cake was fantastic. I loved the bongo drumming. In the afternoon we went in Bobo's car to get to a camp in the Sahara. I saw loads of camels. I even saw a baby one. Eventually we arrived at our camp. It was the sandiest place 'd ever been to! There was a brilliant dress up dolls game. Daddy went sand boarding and Mummy read her book. We climbed up a sand dune that was like a mountain. I liked rolling down the dunes. Then Daddy and I found some bones. The camp was so nice, the beds were very comfy.

Sunday

After breakfast we got the car back to Nancy's guest house. After we had a few biscuits we went on camels to another camp in the desert. I went on a white camel, it kepy trying to eat everything. It was very bumpy but I liked it. When we got to the camp, we climbed a huge sand dune and I slid down,. We told stories around the fire. There were no loos, so we had to wee in the desert!

Monday

Today we woke up in a tent. We had breakfast and did more sliding down the dunes. Then we went back on the camels. We found some shells because there used to be a river but it is all dried up now. When we got back we had a long drive back to a hotel with a swimming pool.

Tuesday

Today we had a long drive through the mountains to get back to Marrakech and went to the square and we saw sheep's brains. People eat them in Morocco. We also saw snake charming.

Wednesday

We went home in an aeroplane.

To see suggested itineraries for a family holiday to Morocco, please take a look here.

Essaouira

Sun, 08 Apr 2012 10:54:00 +0100

Situated on Morocco's Atlantic Coast, Essaouira is a laid-back city offering a relaxing medina with none of the stresses of the chaotic imperial cities. A bustling fishing port, this windy city is something of an artist's hub, with a thriving music and art scene. The large bay attracts wind and kite surfers and the vast sandy beach is a popular promenading spot. Because of the wind, this is not somewhere that you come to sunbathe and soak up the rays, but somewhere to breathe in the ocean air, eat freshly caught fish and enjoy the relaxed vibe.

The old town is a traditional walled medina, but the French influence is to be found here, with small squares filled with cafes and restaurants. The lanes are filled with shops and stalls, but aimed at both residents and tourists, so you can walk through unaccosted, unlike the medinas of Marrakech and Fes. A popular holiday destination for Moroccans, rooms can book up fast during the summer months. Many people choose to combine a visit to Essaouira with Marrakech as they offer such interesting and contrasting experiences of Morocco.

Getting there

Although there is an airport in Essaouira, it is not currently serviced by international flights from the UK, so your best bet is to fly to Marrakech. It is about a 2 1/2 hours drive from Marrakech. During the drive, look out for the many argan trees by the side of the road and the strange sight of the goats, which climb up the trees to eat the leaves and escape the heat of the sun. Once you are in Essaouira, everything is in walking distance, so there is no need for a car.

When to go

Essaouira's coastal location means that it enjoys a mild climate all year round. November - February are the wettest months, but the daily temperature rarely gets below 15C. In the summer months, there is little chance of rain. Daily temperatures tend to settle around the low 20'sC The wind picks up in the summer months, making this the best season for kite & wind surfing. Conversely, the larger surfing waves are found in the autumn and spring, with the summer conditions perfect for beginners.

In the third weekend of June, Essoauira plays host to an interantional music festival, showcasing local Gnaoua and international music talent. At this time of year, rooms book up fast.

Where to stay

You can either stay within the medina (old town) or in the newer part of town. Accommodation in the old town consists of traditional riads and dars - houses built around courtyards with individual rooms and a communal roof terrace. Hotels in the new town have more space and so can offer the luxury of a pool. Even if you are staying the new town, it is just a 20 minute walk along the sea front to the medina.

Our favourite places to stay in Essaouira. At Tourdust, we are suckers for a traditional riad and being in the thick of it, so we prefer the accommodation in the medina. Our favourites are Casa Lila and Riad Chbanate. Families or water sports enthusiasts may prefer Riad Zahra in the new town, which benefits from a pool (complete with pet terrapins)

Essaouira with children

Essaouira is a great place to visit with children if you are looking for a beach break with a cultural bent. The medina is much calmer than that of Marrakech and there are plenty of places to stop for an ice cream and a drink. Children will enjoy walking on the town's ramparts and seeing the large cannons. The beach has lots of cafes and many of them have a small play ground so the children can play whilst their parents can enjoy a mint tea. The beach itself is perfect for shell seeking, running races and (windy) ball games. There are also camels, horses and quad bikes for their enjoyment

Food

There are numerous restaurants to choose from in the old town. As Essaouira has a fishing harbour, fresh fish is the most popular item on menus. Grilled sardines, fresh catch of the day and fish tagine are all on offer. The more upmarket restaurants all serve alcohol.

Things to see & do

There aren't a huge amount of formal sites in Essoauira - it is primarial a place to go to relax and soak up the atmosphere. A walk on the town's ramparts is a must, as is a stroll through the medina and a visit to some of the artisan's stalls.

The large beach at Essaouira is ideal for walking and games of football, as well as quad biking and camel rides. For water sports enthusiasts, there is wind surfing and kite surfing on offer and plenty of places where you can rent the necessary gear. Essaouira bay is not the best place to surf, but there are plenty of excellent (and relatively undiscovered) surf spots close by.

Suggested itineraries

If you are wanting a short break from the UK, then it is possible to visit in a long weekend. If you want to combine a visit to Essaouira with Marrakech, or the Atlas Mountains, please contact us.

Ait Ben Haddou

Mon, 16 Jan 2012 12:12:00 +0000

Ait Ben Haddou is one of the most spectacular manmade sights along the valley of the Kasbahs, in Morocco's rocky desert. The Unesco World heritage site has been used as the backdrop for several Hollywood films, including Gladiator and Lawrence of Arabia and is an excellent example of South Moroccan architecture. Its exact date of build is unknown, but work is estimated to have begun in the 17th Century. It's purpose was to serve as a fortified city along the strategically important trading route linking the Sahara to Marrakech and beyond. The crumbling buildings include houses (a handful of which are still inhabited), mosques and even cemetries. Built from local clay brick, it blends in with the landscape and can be seen from far away, rising above the desert plains.

Ait Ben Haddou does attract its fair share of visitors, but it is big enough to escape from other people, especially if you are visiting out of the main season. Once inside the fortification, you are free to explore the lower level buildings and climb to the top of the hill for a stunning view of the surrounding area. There are several restaurants nearby with lovely views serving traditional cuisine. It is possible to visit in a (long) day from Marrakech, or you can combine your visit with a trip out to the Saharan dunes at Erg Chebbi.

Please contact us to include a visit to Ait Ben Haddou in your tailor-made holiday to Morocco.

Kasbah Telouet

Mon, 16 Jan 2012 11:14:00 +0000

The important former trading route between Marrakech and the Sahara is dotted with crumbling kasbahs and mansions, homes of wealthy merchants and warlords, earning it the nickname 'valley of the kasbahs.' Kasbah Telouet is often over-looked, with most visitors to the area heading straight to Ait Benhaddou, the most famous kasbah of them all. However, with its crumbling walls and stunning mosaics, Kasbah Telouet is more than worth a visit in its own right and can easily be combined with a visit to Ait Benhaddou, the Saharan dunes of Erg Chebbi, or as a day trip from Marrakech.

Built in the 1800's by the Glaoui family, the kasbah enjoyed a prosperous strategic position on the trans-Saharan trading route and close proximity to the area's salt mining industry. After Morocco's independence in 1953, the Glaoui family was evicted and the kasbah was left to ruin. In recent times, the kasbah has started to attract some low-level tourist interest and the town has some restaurants to support the visitors.

Visitors catch their first glimpse of the kasbah as they drive into Telouet; an imposing building standing proud on top of a small hill. On closer inspection, the walls are crumbling and close to collapsing. The entrance to the building is no less dilapidated, with incomplete walls and rubble. As you walk through the corridor, it is unclear what makes the building so remarkable, with its bare, neglected walls. It is only when you reach the heart of the building that you can understand the significance and fallen wealth of the kasbah. Stunning mosaics and intricate wood carvings adorn the walls, reminiscent of the Bahia Palace in Marrakech. The attention to detail is most incredible and the work and money spent on building it is unfathomable. After being astounded by the mosaics on the first floor, more treats await you, with far-reaching views of the valley and mountains beyond from the roof terrace. All in all, well worth the visit. Contact us if you would like to include this in your tailor-made itinerary.

Imperial City of Fes

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 17:07:00 +0000

Fes is often over-looked in favour of the more famous and popular Marrakech. This imperial city, however, has a lot going for it. With fewer tourists and more laid-back stall holders, a couple of days spent wandering around the souks and visiting the beautiful merdersas are well worth it. Whilst there is no central square, there are still plenty of opportunities for drinking mint tea and watching the world go by.

The Imperial city of Fes was founded approximately 1200 years ago and its medieval heritage is clear to see when wandering the old town. The medina, a Unesco World Heritage site, is a labyrinth of small streets and high buildings built on the side of a hill. With no motorbikes or cars in the medina, all goods transport is done by horse or mule and cart, making for a more olde world feel. That said, they pound the streets with a purpose, so you are well advised to stand back when they come by! It is tempting to try to compare Fes to Marrakech, but actually, the two are completely different and whilst Marrakech will probably always attract more tourist traffic, Fes is certainly well worth a visit. The tanneries, using traditional dyeing techniques, are a fascinating site and the medersas Bou Inania and el Attarine will take your breath away with their intricate stone and mosaic work.

What's it like? Marangu Route in detail

Wed, 11 Jan 2012 18:00:00 +0000

“Kilimanjaro is a pretty tricky climb you know; most of it's up until you reach the very, very top, and then it tends to slope away rather sharply.” - Graham Chapman (1941-1989)

What is it with people and mountains? According to Friedrich Nietzsche, ‘he who climbs upon the highest mountains laughs at all tragedies, whether real or imagined’. Fair enough. But is this really a rationale, or just a sign of high-altitude deliria? When asked why he wanted to climb Everest, George Mallory famously replied: ‘Because it’s there.’ Unfortunately for Mallory, so too would his corpse soon be. (Nietzsche, a keen mountaineer himself, would have probably found this hilarious.) ‘Apparently, more people have died climbing Kilimanjaro than Everest’, I tell my mother as she bids us (her husband and three children) farewell at the airport. This trip should be a laugh-fest.

In truth, the death rate on Kilimanjaro pales in comparison to the sheer number of climbers who set out to scale the mountain each year (some 25,000 in 2010). As big mountains go, ‘Kili’ is pretty user-friendly; there are several well-trodden routes, a host of trekking companies and comfortable campsites with hot running water and tea- and coffee-making facilities. And yet, at the best part of 6,000m, Africa’s highest peak is not to be laughed at (though Nietzsche probably would…). Though the climbing is non-technical - unless of course you’re one of porters (standard issue: two per person) balancing a week’s worth of food and fuel on your head – the success rate on the main routes is low, as little as 30% on the most popular approach. The cause is rarely physical exertion – the porters shoulder that burden - but rather the Russian roulette of altitude sickness, the symptoms of which are often described as being akin to the worst hangover imaginable. A sobering thought.

I’m fairly apprehensive, then, about my family’s chances of reaching Uhuru Peak. Though all of our party are in fairly good shape, that 30% success rate means that, statistically speaking, only one of us (or one and a bit – queue chortles from Nietzsche) will make it to the summit. “It’s the journey that’s important, not the destination”, we remind ourselves (30% in jest, 70% in justification).

And quite some journey it is. All the pre-trek chat about altitude sickness, sub-zero temperatures and blisters the size of sheep’s bladders had obscured the fact that this was, after all, a five-day hike through a spectacular national park. The mountain itself is a sky island, its various ecosystems having been severed from the mainland and cast adrift in a sea of cloud. Indeed, as one of the world’s tallest ‘true’ mountains, Kilimanjaro comprises five distinct ecological zones, each home to countless endemic and relict species of flora and fauna. So immense is this upturned ark that the migratory birds inhabiting its lower levels need only move a few kilometres up the mountain come change of season. Conversely, a creature at home on one part of the mountain may struggle to survive just a short distance up (as many a climber has discovered).

Our trek up Kilimanjaro follows the Marangu (a.k.a. Coca-Cola) route. (Why Coca-Cola? Because it is cheap and popular but should probably carry a health warning.) The five- or six-day climb traverses the eastern flank of the mountain, with each leg covering approximately 1,000 vertical metres and coinciding with a different ecological zone. Thus, we ascend first through the mountain’s forested skirt, its dark folds hemmed by silver streams and gleaming with floral sequins. At around 3,000 metres the trail unfurls across open moorland and the twin peaks, Uhuru and Mwenzi, make themselves known in the distance. On occasion, there appears on the horizon a great maelstrom of dust and clamour, which, as it rolls nearer, reveals itself to be the mountain rescue team: four men wheeling an improvised stretcher that looks like a door glued to unicycle. The first time we encounter this onrushing omen we’re understandably fretful, but we’re soon reassured by the good cheer of the stretcher-bearers, who sing and joke as they hurtle down the mountain with their unconscious quarry. (Clearly fans of a certain German philosopher…) Other returnees are slightly more vertical though often no less broken; ‘are they the ones that made it’, we wonder aloud, ‘or the ones that ruined themselves trying?’

Day three is an alpine desert, literally and mentally. Features on the trail, targeted as milestones, appear, like the charging knights in that Monty Python scene, perennially out of reach, while further still the mile-proud peak taunts us with its indifference. By the time one reaches Kibo Hut (4,730m), the prospect of tomorrow’s climb seems about as appetising as the cucumber soup we’re served at dinner, not least because tomorrow’s climb starts in just six hours, at 12 a.m. sharp. Between then and now, one is required to negotiate a string of ultra-banal tasks – eating, resting, visiting the little boy’s hut – which, on account of a lack of oxygen and an overabundance of underwear, are rendered epic undertakings in themselves. Thus, it is with a curious mix of abject fatigue and raw adrenalin that we set off through the midnight dark to begin our summit attempt.

Now this may hard to believe, but the six-and-a-half hours it took to reach Uhuru seemed to fly by. Needless to say, it was not in any way fun, but nor was it wholly unpleasant. My main sensation, in fact, was tedium, a pure, crystalline boredom that in time became so acute it induced a warm and fudgey hypnosis. For the entirety of the ascent, your sensory stimulation is limited to a) the feeling of listless plodding, b) the sound of heavy breathing and c) the sight (lit by head-torch) of the back of your guide’s boots. If you’re lucky, you might have d) the taste of impending vomit and e) the smell of dinner revisited (altitude plays havoc with one’s gas levels) to add to the equation, though these are but momentary distractions. The only real respite is the summit itself…

As the sun prizes open the firmament, we are greeted with a sight of untold majesty: ok, it’s still the back of our guide’s boots, but now the boots in question are rounding the crater rim, with ice fields to one side and the parched mouth of the volcano to the other. Shadows shorten, and in no time at all (well, another mind-numbing hour) we’re standing on the rooftop of Africa, surveying the continent, laughing at tragedies, queuing for a photo with the sign. And no sooner has the shutter clicked than we’re off again – this is no place for loitering – surfing down the mountain on a tide of scree. This is pretty much the story for the next two days. Our route down is the same as the one we took up, which means no new scenery but lots of fun to be had with those en route to the top. (The words ‘good luck’, we discover, uttered with a knowing smile, can fill people with both bonhomie and utter foreboding.) Gradually, life returns to the mountain, and with it civilisation. At this point, our interest in the latter extends no further than showers, beer and Internet, which we seek out (in this order) once back on flat land.

A week later, the clouds clear momentarily and the mountain graces us with a view from the plateau. A curious feeling consumes us, one probably common to all ‘real’ mountaineers; it’s nothing more profound than ‘I was there’, and strangely, there’s nothing more exhilarating.

Epilogue

In the spirit of broadcasting standards, I should point out that other Kili trekking routes are available. While Marangu is doubtless an option if time and money are very limited, we always prefer to recommend one of the longer routes (Machame, say, or Lemosho), which promise a far greater chance of reaching the summit. Moreover, unlike the Marangu, these other treks don’t jag back on themselves, which means a greater variety of scenery and far fewer mid-mountain traffic jams.

This post was written by travel writer David Jobanputra, who climbed Kilimanjaro in Summer 2011. Find out more about David here.

Our Kilimanjaro Treks

Please note, we no longer offer treks on the Marangu route as we don't believe it offers sufficient acclimatisation when compared to some of the other superior routes on the Mountain.

Kilimanjaro Quick Guide

Wed, 11 Jan 2012 17:39:00 +0000

If you’ve only got 5 minutes this quick guide to Kilimanjaro is for you. We’ve attempted to answer all the questions in (around) 140 characters. If you want more detail, check all the articles on the right of the page.

Sell it to me?
Its Africa’s highest mountain with rainforest, moorland, glaciers, lunar landscapes and insane altitude. Pu simply, it is an iconic & monumental achievement.

When is the best time to climb Kili?
Its possible year round. Avoid Jul-Sep + xmas/new year to miss crowds. Avoid April, May and November if you don’t like rain. Best month = June

Which route should I do?
Depends on your priority; tight budget? Marangu is cheap but summit prospects not great. Hate crowds? TK Rongai and TK Lemosho quietest. Machame good all-rounder

How comfortable will I be?
Marangu uses basic huts (bunk bed sponge mattress), other routes camping (thunderbox loo, 2 man tents, sleeping mats)

How tough is Kilimanjaro?
Its possible for anyone with reasonable fitness. It is a big test of stamina, patience and determination. Biggest hurdle is altitude sickness

Do I need specialist kit?
You’ll need to splash out on some good trekking kit, breathable layers, waterproofs, insulated jacket, walking boots and 4 season sleeping bags essential

Why should I choose Tourdust for my Kilimanjaro climb?
We organise hundreds of succesful treks in Africa every year. We offer impartial honest advice, great rates, experienced guides and a choice of shared or private treks. We also understand that there is more to Africa than Kilimanjaro and our team has 30+ years experience of designing safaris and beach holidays in Southern and Eastern Africa.

What is it like at the summit (Uhuru Peak)?
Icebergs, lunar landscape, views (if lucky). Downside of crater summit is no distinguishable peak. Main emotion is relief.

How can I avoid crowds?
One or all of: Choose a quieter route (TK Rhongai / TK Lemosho), a quieter month (e.g. June), summit during the day, stay in crater camp.

Our Kilimanjaro Itineraries

Choosing your Kilimanjaro route

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 21:51:00 +0000

There are several routes up Kilimanjaro and the choice can become bewildering. The purpose of this guide is to honestly lay out the pros and cons of each route and aid your decision.

Factors to consider when choosing your Kili route

If you can clarify your priorities the decision becomes relatively easy. Factors to consider when choosing a route include; Your chances of successfully reaching the summit on a given route (some routes offer better acclimatisation and therefore better summit prospects). The likelihood of crowding on the trail. (some routes offer genuine wilderness, others are unfortunately more crowded). The beauty of the route. Some routes offer more variety, more angles of the mountain and more striking views. The cost of the route. (Vehicle, staff and equipment requirements vary by route). How long you'll spend on the mountain

Put simply, in an ideal world speed and cost should not be your primary consideration when choosing a route. The Marangu route offers easily the cheapest prices on the mountain, but that cost saving can be negated by the poor summit prospects, with less than 50% making it to the top. We've tried to tease out the pros and cons of each route. If you make it all the way to the end, we've thrown in our general recommendations, which are of course subject to your interests.

Pros and Cons of Marangu

Marangu is traditionally the most popular route. Nicknamed the coca cola route, there are huts all the way and it is the cheapest option for trekkers on a budget. However, given the low completion rates on Marangu (approx. 42%), it doesn’t necessarily offer the best value for money

Pros of Marangu
- Quickest route
- Cheapest route
- Huts for overnight
- Accessible in the wet season

Cons of Marangu
- Low summit success rates
- Crowds on the trail
- Overcrowded huts with poor sanitation

* Note: Marangu has traditionally been the cheapest option because it was the simplest and easiest for an operator to equip. With a paved road to the gate, huts and communal kitchens, the equipment and staffing requirements are far lower than other routes. It also has a reputation as the least physically demanding route, whilst this may be true it is also offers the worst acclimatisation.

Pros and Cons of Machame

Machame is traditionally known as the most beautiful route on the mountain and has grown in popularity to surpass Marangu. After Marangu it is the most accessible for operators, and is therefore cheaper than other options (barring Marangu). The main draw-back (and only notable criticism) of Machame are over-crowding, particularly where Shira, Old Lemosho and Umbwe converge with Machame at Barranco.

Pros of Machame
- Attractive route
- Accessible in the wet season
- Offers the second greatest chance of summit success behind TK Rongai

Cons of Machame
- Crowding in the high season

Pros and Cons of Lemosho

The traditional Lemosho route is effectively a variant of the Machame route with the only the first two days of the trek differing. It is arguably more beautiful than Machame with more views of Kili than any other route and a true wilderness on the first two days where you are unlikely to see another trekker. With less people around, the chances of a wildlife encounter are also much higher. The big drawback is the bottle-neck at Barranco where it joins the other routes. This can be avoided with the unique TK Lemosho route which is arguably the best option during the peak season, steering clear of the bottleneck and preserving the sense of wilderness right up to the junction of Hans Meyer Cave (well into the assault bid)

Pros of Lemosho
- Attractive route
- Very quiet, particularly on the first two days. (Great option in the peak season)

Cons of Lemosho
- The traditional Lemosho route bottlenecks at Barranco with Machame & Umbwe. (This is avoided in the TK Lemosho route)
- Not possible in the wet season (the approach to the start point by vehicle is not possible)

Pros and Cons of Rongai

The traditional Rongai route is a fairly direct slog offering poor acclimatisation (summit rates as low as 50%). Instead we sell a trek on the unique TK Rongai route, a pioneering route with unparalleled successful summit rates. TK Rongai is our favourite route on Kilimanjaro.

Pros of Rongai
- The best climb high sleep low differential of all routes
- The gentlest approach to high camp

Cons of Rongai
- Summit assault point is shared with climbers from Shira, Lemosho, Machame and Umbwe
- Not possible in the wet season (the approach to the start point by vehicle is not possible)

Pros and Cons of Umbwe

Umbwe is traditionally the hardest route with the poorest altitude acclimatisation. It tends to attract hardier sorts, particularly those attempting the recently re-opened Western Breach.

Pros of Umbwe
- Access to the Western Breach for experienced climbers

Cons of Umbwe
- Poor acclimatisation
- The Western Breach is dangerous

Summary: Our recommended Kilimanjaro routes

Everyone will have different priorities, but to put your reading in context, these are the main routes we usually recommend.

#1 Best for quiet trails in peak season – TK Lemosho

#2 Best for summit chances – TK Rhongai

#3 Best all round – TK Rongai & Machame

Our Kilimanjaro Treks

Choosing your kayaking holiday

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 16:53:00 +0000

There can be no better way to explore a coastline than on a simple kayak. Paddling quietly between rocks, your small vessel takes you to places that boats are too large to reach. Gliding through calm waters, you get to see the land from a totally different perspective.You can access small, deserted bays that are inaccessible from the land and experience a tranquillity rarely found in modern life.

Just as with skiing where the après ski is equally as important as the day time activity, the downtime when you are not kayaking is a critical part of your holiday. Whether it is wild camping on one of Sweden’s many islands, sitting in a taverna over-looking one of Croatia’s small fishing villages, enjoying a campfire on a deserted Turkish beach or snorkelling to your heart’s content in Greece, you can guarantee that your down time will be pretty special. Picnics are plentiful, using only the freshest ingredients, dinners are delicious and every day there is ample time in the itinerary for beach time, snorkelling, swimming and exploring on-land as well.

Where to go

Most of our sea kayaking holidays are in the Mediterranean, with the exception of our Sedish kayaking weekend, which is based in the Stockholm archipelago in the Baltic sea. In the Mediterranean, we have holidays in Croatia, exploring the Elaphite islands off Dubrovnik, Turkey, based out of Dalyan and Greece, based either on the island of Milos or Kefalonia.

Greece - MILOS

The sea kayaking holidays on Milos are some of our most popular holidays. The island itself is the most south westerly of the Cyclades islands and is said to be the birth places of Venus de Milo. With over 70 beaches and a stunning coastline, the kayaking is excellent. There are two different holidays on offer here.

8 Day Sea Kayaking Holiday in Greece from £481pp: This week long trip is a classic sea kayaking holiday. Each morning you meet your guide and go on a different day trip, depending on the conditions and skills of the group. Each day consists of 3 – 4 hours paddling (11 – 17km) with generous stops for snorkelling, swimming and long picnics on the beach. You also have rest day built in to the holiday when youare free to explore at your leisure. Accommodation is in a small, friendly guesthouse in easy walking distance of the tavernas and bars. This holiday is suitable for beginners and all levels of kayakers and children aged 10 +. Please read the excellent reviews to get more of a flavour.

5 Day Sea Kayaking & Wild Camping Trip from £404pp: The wild camping expedition is for more experienced kayakers and involves circumnavigating the island over 5 days, covering a total of 90km. Whilst the kayaking is tougher going, there is still plenty of time for snorkelling, swimming and relaxing. Camping is on beaches along the way, so there are no facilities. Food is entirely self-catered. The max group size is 8 and no children are permitted on this trip.

Greece - KEFALONIA

We have 2 holidays in Kefalonia, in the Ionian Islands in Western Greece. Both holidays involve exploring the coastline of Kefalonia and its quieter neighbour, Ithaca. A beautiful coastline and beaches await you here – some of the scenes from Captain Corelli’s Mandolin were filmed here.Both holidays are suitable for beginners and involve kayaking between 9 – 15kms each day. The two holidays cover slightly different routes as one involves some wild camping on beaches and other is an inn to inn holiday, where you stay in a different apartment each night. Your choice is down to creature comfort; whether you prefer BBQs on the beach and a night sleeping under the stars, or dinner in a small fishing village and sleeping in a comfortable bed with a hot shower.
Sea Kayaking Kefalonia & Ithaca - Camping trip from £833pp
8 Day Inn to Inn Kayaking in Kefalonia from £1005pp

Turkey

Unlike some of the more built up areas of Turkey, the Lycian coast is less visited and offers an interesting coastline, beautiful islands and a lovely climate. An absolulte treat for those looking for a combination of kayaking, culture and relaxation.

8 Day Sea-Kayaking Holiday in Turkey from £525pp: On this holiday, there are 4 days spent kayaking interspersed with 2 rest days. The kayaking days are fully catered and evenings are spent camping on deserted beaches. You kayak for 3 – 5 hours each day and there are plenty of stops built in for coffee, lunch, snorkelling, swimming and exploring on land. On your rest days, you will be based in the pretty, but unassuming town of Dalyan. The town has its own rock tombs and ancient ruins that are well worth a visit, or you can catch a leisurely boat down to the beach. You can choose your accommodation level and both options are on the river side. Minimum group size for this trip is 2 and holidays can be kept private if you want.

Croatia

A popular choice in 2011, Croatia offers fantastic kayaking, a healthy dose of culture and is also easy to get to. Our kayaking holidays all start from Dubrovnik, where you catch a ferry to the Elaphiti Islands. You have the choice between our standard 8 day holiday, a shorter 3 day break or an 8 day family holiday suitable for children aged 6+.

8 Day Croatia Island Hopping Holiday from £614pp: On the week long holiday, you explore the coastlines of 3 islands, as well as kayaking over to the mainland. Staying in locally owned and fairly basic accommodation, you kayak between 7 – 18kms each day, with plenty of time to snorkel and swim, as well as a rest day to relax or explore off on your own. The islands offer beautiful walks and tavernas and Dubrovnik itself is also well worth a visit. This holiday is only open to adults and with group sizes (max size is 20) is also popular with singles.

Dubrovnik Kayaking Short Break from £417pp: The short break gives you 3 full days on the water which is just enough time to get a taster of what the area had to offer. You will explore the coastline of two of the Elaphiti islands and will kayak between 7 – 18kms each day.

8 Day Family Sea Kayaking Holiday in Dubrovnik from £597pp: The family holiday has been put together for families with children aged 6 and above. There is a good mixture of kayaking snorkelling and swimming, as well as plenty of time to play on the island’s sandy beach – a real rarity in this region. The island you stay on is entirely car-free and accommodation is in self-catered apartments for added flexibility.

Sweden

Outside of the Mediterranean, Sweden offers some excellent kayaking. The Stockholm archipelago consists of over 30,000 islands, some of which are entirely uninhabited.

Weekend Sea Kayaking Break in Sweden from £363pp: This weekend trip takes you into the wilderness, camping rough on the beaches. With long days of sunlight and peace, this is the trip for you if you want to truly get away from it all and experience nature in all her glory.

Experience Levels

There are, of course, many places where you need experience to kayak, as the tides and currents are too difficult to negotiate for a novice. However, if you are a beginner or an intermediate, there are many options all within Europe where you can go. All of our trips, other than the sea kayaking & wild camping in Greece are suitable for beginners. All of our guides have years of experience in teaching kayaking techniques and have a deep understanding, knowledge and respect for areas that they operate in and the safety and enjoyment of all participants is their priority.

Accommodation

You have the choice between camping based holidays or staying in a guesthouse. Camping is on deserted beaches with no facilities. Food is freshly prepared and participants are requested to helop with both setting up the camp and food preparation. Guest house accommodation varies on each trip. They are all locally owned and managed and vary from 2* in Croatia & Turkey to 3* and 4* in Greece and Turkey.

When to go?

If you are planning a kayaking holiday in the Mediterranean, then the season runs between May – October. In Greece and Croatia, our holidays operate throughout the season. In Turkey, the sun gets very fierce in the height of summer, so we only offer holidays in spring and autumn.

September is usually the most popular month for the Mediterranean as the weather is still warm, the sea temperature is lovely and the summer crowds have all gone.

The season in Sweden is shorter on account of the weather. We only offer trips between July & August, when the weather is warm and the days are long.

Price

There is a variation in pricing of the holidays. This is down, in part, to the local economics, but also down to the levels of accommodation. The Kefalonia trips are the most expensive, due to the standard of accommodation used. The wild camping holiday in Milos is cheaper because it is self-catering. For Tureky we give you the option between a cheaper holiday staying in very basic accommodation and am option to stay in more salubrious surroundings.

Group Sizes

Kayaking trips are usually in small groups of 2 – 8 people, although there are sometimes more on the Croatian holidays. You will be spending time with others and whilst you are usually free to spend the evenings on your own, groups often choose to stick together for meals. This is especially true for the camping trips. Whilst many people enjoy the camaraderie on these group trips, please do bear in mind that you will be spending a lot of time with other people and that we cannot guarantee the make-up of groups. Last minute cancellations and bookings make it difficult to predict and guarantee ages and genders of other participants/. The best thing to do is to go with an open mind. We can offer the Turkey holiday as a private departure, please contact us for details.

Solo Travellers

Group holidays can be ideal for single travellers as they provide an excellent way to share an experience with others. Please bear in mind, however, that we cannot guarantee the make-up of your holiday group. The Croatia holidays are particularly popular with solo travellers, as the groups sizes are slightly larger.

How to Book

You can check the availability of all our kayaking holidays on-line and once availability has been confirmed, you can book online through our secure booking system. If you have any specific quetsions about our kayaking holidays, please contact us by phone: 0203 291 2907 or email: help@tourdust.com

Gallery - Kayaking weekend in Sweden

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 16:17:00 +0000

Sweden has long been known as a wilderness and nature-lovers destination, famed, in particular, for its stunning lakes. But what many people don't know, is that as well as beautiful inland lakes, Sweden has a coastline to rival the Mediterranean. The weather may not be as reliable, but a long summers day in August spent kayaking around some of the 30,000 islands off Stockholm promises deserted beaches, uninhabited islands and serenity. With the added bonus that camping is Robinson Crusoe style, it was a blissful weekend away from modern life. Here are some of my favourite pictures from my trip out there in September:

Why Peru?

Sat, 31 Dec 2011 17:57:00 +0000

Located in the South America and famous for its Incan ruins, Jungle, Mountains and, of course, Paddington Bear, Peru is a colourful and friendly destination. Part of its charm is its rich heritage, with a culture based on the fusion of the ancient indigenous Incan empire and the Spanish Colonialists who arrived in 1529. Whilst much is known of Peru since the conquest, life beforehand is shrouded in mystery as there was no written language and no documentation. What we do know about Incan culture and tradition is based on folklore and archaeologist's findings. A trip to Peru, therefore, is not complete without visiting several of the Incan sites, to build a picture of the history.

Peru isn't just about crumbling ruins and ancient Incas, however. The country is bisected by the vast Andes range, which runs throughout South America. With some of the highest peaks towering at over 5,000m, they offer deep gorges, volcano craters and far-reaching mountain views which make it the perfect destination for trekkers and white water rafting enthusiasts. To the east of the Andes 2/3 of the country is covered in lush jungle, or rainforest, teeming with wild- and bird life. Tourism to this part of the country is still in its relatively early stages, partly due to accessibility, but it is improving all the time.

Cusco

Cusco was the ancient capital of the Incan empire and is the focal point of many trips to Peru. The city is an intriguing mixture of Spanish colonialism and Quechan heritage, reflected in the architecture and art seen in the cathedral and museums. The atmosphere in Cusco is very laid-back, but at the same time there is always something going on. Wander for a while and you will come across a street busker, or a buzzing market stall. If you’re very lucky, you may just get to see one of the many fiestas the town is famous for. The Plaza de Armas is at the heart of Cusco and is the best starting point for a walking tour of the city. The cathedral and Inca museum are particularly worthy of a visit, as are the Sachsayhuaman ruins, if you can face the walk. Many people head to Cusco before heading out on one of the many multi-day treks possible in the area.

One note of caution, flying into here from sea level can cause mild altitude sickness, so make sure you allow yourself enough room in your itinerary to acclimatise. Most symptoms ease off after 24 hours, but you are advised to wait 2 -3 days before starting a trek.

Cusco has a domestic airport which is serviced by several airlines flying to many destinations in Peru.

The Sacred Valley

From Cusco, the must-see place to visit is the Sacred Valley, which many people do as a day trip. The landscape serves as a spectacular backdrop to the beautifully preserved Incan ruins and terraces at Pisac and Ollantaytambo. The ruins give a very useful insight into Incan history and their ancient ways of life. Cultural experiences are also available, with visits to local weaver workshops a particular highlight. Tours can be undertaken privately or in a group. The advantage of having your individual guide is that you can go at your own pace and can delve into lots of detail. The bus trips, however, are cheaper.

For the more active, white water rafting trips are run on the Urubamba River on class 2 – 3 rapids. It makes for an exhilarating excursion, so is especially good for clearing up any jetlag. When booking, ensure that the operator adheres to safety standards.

Machu Picchu

The ancient citadel of Machu Picchu was only discovered 100 years ago and retains its magical and mystical air. The terraces and ancient buildings remain a puzzle to archaeologists and historians alike, who are still undecided as to its original purpose. The remote setting, in the heart of the Andes and surrounded by cloud forest, makes it an un-missable experience.

Trekkers can reach the site on foot via the Inca Trail, most commonly on a 4 day/ 3 night trek, although a shorter 2 day trek is also available. The trail is very popular and operated on a permit basis, so booking far in advance is advisable.

If you don’t want to trek, you can visit Machu Picchu by catching a train from Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley to Aguas Calientes and then catching a bus to the ruins.

Lake Titicaca

South East of Cusco is South America's highest lake; Lake Titicaca. At 3,800m, the vast lake stretches 120 by 80 miles and forms the border with Bolivia. Said to have been the birth place of the Inca Empire, the lake is home to the Uros people, who live on man-made floating islands made out of reeds on the lake. The closest town to the lake is Puno, which is the stopping off place for people wanting to spend either the day or an overnight trip on Titicaca. Puno itself is not particularly exciting place to visit; most people just come for the lake which you can visit on a day trip or overnight on one of the islands in a homestay. You can get to Puno either by bus from Cusco or Arequipa, or by flying into the airport at Juliaca. We strongly advise you visit Lake Titicaca after having first acclimatised in Cusco or Arequipa.

Arequipa

Known as the white city, Arequipa is famed for its grand colonial buildings, constructed out of the local white volcanic rock. Peru’s second largest city is vibrant and offers some fantastic local restaurants and markets. The magnificent cathedral on the central square, Plaza de Armas is worth a visit. It has been rebuilt many times on account of earthquake damage, but still retains its grandeur. Many people also choose to go to the Museum of Santuarios Andinos (or the Museo Santury) which houses the frozen body of Juanita, an Incan princess. Her preserved body was discovered on the snowy mountains and it is thought that she was there as a sacrifice to the sun god, although there is no proof to this claim.

Arequipa can be reached by air or by bus from Puno.

Colca Canyon

The landscape surrounding Arequipa is some of Peru’s most dramatic and wild, with extinct volcanoes, snow- capped mountains and deep mountain gorges and canyons. The most accessible of these is the dramatic Colca Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world. At over 100km long and 3,000m deep, it is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. The best time to arrive is early in the morning, when you have the best chance of seeing the magnificent condors soaring above the canyon. You can visit Colca Canyon on an over-night trip from Arequipa. You can then return the same way, or head up to Lake Titicaca.

Amazon Jungle

East of the Andes, 60% of Peru is covered in lush jungle, or rainforest. Much of this remains off-limits to tourists, but the Manu and Tambopata reserves are open for visitors, with the latter more accessible. Brimming with wildlife and birds, the jungle is a nature-lovers paradise. You can hope to see caimans basking on the banks of the muddy river, brightly coloured macaws screeching at clay licks and monkeys leaping in the canopy. Walks through the dense forest are incredible, with neither the fauna nor flora failing to amaze. To make the most out of your jungle experience, we recommend you stay for 3 – 4 days, which allows enough time to get deep into the jungle, away from all civilisation. You can expect basic jungle lodges in some of the best settings Mother Nature has to offer. The best starting point for your jungle adventure is Puerto Maldonado, from where you catch a boat upstream. You can fly to Puerto Maldonado from Cusco or Lima.

Lima

Not to be over-looked, Peru’s capital, Lima is also deserving of a visit. Whilst it may not hold the spectacular sights of Arequipa & Cusco, it is a vibrant city and makes for a good place to recover from your jetlag. Many people choose to stay in the popular Miraflores district, which overlooks the Pacific Ocean and plays host to some modern restaurants and bars, giving you a good feel for contemporary Lima. In the old town, you can have a taste of Colonial times by visiting the 17th Century St Francis Convent and the Plaza Mayor, Plaza San Martin & Palacio de Gobierno.

Most flights from the UK arrive here early in the morning, so we recommend that you break your journey in Lima for the day, explore and then travel to your onward destination the following day. This gives you a chance to see the highlights of the city and also to overcome the worst of your jetlag so that you do not have to cope with jetlag and altitude acclimatisation at the same time.

Please make sure you see a health care professional when planning your trip, as some destinations require vaccinations / anti-malarials.

How to be a tour guide's nightmare

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 08:16:00 +0000

Travelling as part of a tour group can be a little like being one of a flock of herded sheep. Someone is there to guide you along every step of the way and all you need to do is follow their instructions.

There's usually one person in a tour group who seems to live by their own rules. They will annoy the hell out of the other more compliant group members but observe them closely and you'll probably notice that they are having more fun than everyone else. So next time you're on a group tour, here are seven simple tips on how to be the tour guide's nightmare while having the time of your life.

1. Be consistently late. If your guide tells your group to meet at 2 o'clock you should aim to arrive at the agreed place anytime from around 2.15. That way, everyone will be sitting comfortably on the bus and the driver can depart immediately as you won't be waiting for any more latecomers.

2. Ask lots of questions. 'There's no such thing as a stupid question'; so said some wise man at one time or other. The tour guide is here to share their knowledge with the group and what better way to help them than by interrogation. Asking questions that they have already answered is highly recommended as repetition has been shown to aid memory.

3. Be a fussy eater. Timing is everything and the time to announce that you're a lactose intolerant coeliac vegan with a nut allergy is 5 minutes before the meal is served in the yurt by the nomadic tribesmen. They should be considerate and plan ahead to cater for every possibility.

4. Insist on toilet breaks on demand. The need to go to the loo is a very delicate matter and if you happen to get the urge 10 minutes after the group stopped at a cafe your needs should be respected.

5. Stake your seat claim. The best seat on the bus is right at the front. Everyone knows that, so make sure you're quick on the draw to bag the front seat on the first journey. After that, don't entertain anyone's suggestion of rotating seats. If someone has got there before you, tell them you suffer from motion-sickness and that you need to sit at the front.

6. Take your photography seriously. You don't want to rush a good picture. Neither do you want any of the other 50 people on your trip to spoil your shot. The best thing to do is to get to the view points first, set up your tripod and then hold the others back until you have the perfect shot. You'll appreciate your efforts when you get home and see the results.

7. Eat, drink and be merry. Everyone feels better after a drink or two so make sure you knock back any wine on offer during the lunch stop. There's nothing better than starting a good sing-song when everyone is nodding off in the afternoon and a bit of lunchtime booze is great to help oil the old vocal chords.

What else have we missed from the list? Add your thoughts on how you would make that lasting impression by standing out from the crowd in your tour group.

Peru - Need to Know

Sat, 17 Dec 2011 10:00:00 +0000

Read on for more information about preparing for your holiday to Peru. Information about getting there, entry requirements, money and vaccinations should answer many of questions. If you have any other queries about travel to Peru, then please don't hesitate to contact us.

Before your trip, we strongly recommend that you check the latest travel advice to your destination. For visitors to Peru from the UK, we suggest the Foreign Office Website.

Getting there

You can't fly direct to Peru from the UK, so you will need to change planes en route. You have the choice of flying via Madrid (Iberia, BA, Lan Peru), Amsterdam (KLM), Paris (Air France) or via New York or Miami in the USA and then take a connecting flight to Lima. From Lima, you can connect with one of Peru's several domestic airlines to take you to your next destination. Most flights from Europe fly over night, landing in Lima in the morning and departing Lima in the evening. Prices start from £600 in the low season, to £900 in the peak season.

Tourdust can help you to arrange your flights, please contact us for further information.

Entry Requirements

Visas are not generally required for travellers entering Peru, but you will need your passport to be valid for at least 6 months. Tourists are granted a 30 - 90 day stay on arrival and are also given a tourist card, which you need to give back at the end of your trip. Don't lose this, or you will need to join a long queue at the airport on your way out.

Airport Taxes

Depending on the type of air ticket you have purchased, you may be liable to pay taxes at the airport. This can pertain to domestic as well as international flights. International departure tax is around $30 from Lima and internal departure tax is around $6. Check with your ticketing agent to see if this fee is applicable to you.

Money

The currency in Peru is the Peruvian Nuevo Sole, although the US Dollar is also in circulation. Many businesses working in the tourism industry accept both forms of currency, but you will need Soles for tipping. We recommend you take some USD with you. ATM's can be found in most major towns, cities and airports, you can withdraw USD & Soles from most. Credit cards are accepted at more upmarket shops and restaurants.

Health

It is very important that you go to your local travel clinic at least 8 weeks before departure to confirm which immunisations you need and to check whether you need anti-malarials. The information below should be used as a guide and is not intended to be a substitute for medical advice.

Travellers to Peru should make sure that they are immunised against the following: Tetanus, Hepatitis A, Typhoid.

You may also want to consider protecting yourself against the following: Diptheria, Tuberculosis, Rabies (there are a lot of stray dogs in Cusco), Hepatitis B, Cholera

If you are visiting jungle areas in Peru, you will need a yellow fever vaccination. Please remember to take your certificate with you, as spot checks for this can be performed at Puerto Maldonado airport. Depending on where you are in the jungle, you may need to take anti-malarials. In the north of the country, they are an absolute must. The Tambopata Reserve has not had any recent cases of Malaria, but if you are travelling ion the wet season (October - March) they are recommended.

Altitude Sickness - most people get some form of altitude sickness when they fly into high-altitude destinations from sea level. In Peru, this includes Cusco, Puno, Arequipa and Huarez. The best remedies are rest, plenty of fluids and coca tea. For more information, please read our notes on acclimatisation.

For more information on health in Peru, please go to this excellent site: http://www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk

Insurance

Please ensure that you have insurance in place that covers you for all the activities you are undertaking on your holiday. It is worth double-checking that you are covered for trekking at altitude, as sometimes you need to pay a premium for this activity.

Weather & Climate

There are two seasons in Peru - wet and dry - although weather patterns and temperatures fluctuate throughout the country depending on the geography of the region.

In the highlands, the dry season is from May - October. Days are bright and sunny and whilst rain is a possibility, it is unlikely. Average highs are 19C - 20C with night time temperatures hovering around 0C - 1C June - September is the high tourist season in Peru and at this time of year accommodation, transport and the treks can sell out months in advance. The Incan celebration of Inti Raymi (The festival of the Sun) falls on the 24th June, making it a particularly busy time to visit.

November to March is the wet season. Trekking in these months will be wet, especially in January - March when a soaking is pretty much guaranteed. Average day time temperatures are 19C - 20C with night time temperatures around 6C. The Inca Trail is closed throughout February, although Machu Picchu itself is still open and other treks are available.

In the rainforest, the wettest months are November to March. At this time you can expect high humidity with rain showers every day, full rivers, wet paths and mosquitoes. In the dry season, it is still very humid, with average temperatures in the mid 30's. However, sometimes a cold wind blows though, bringing lower temperatures for a few days. In general, the dry season is a better time to visit.

To see an uptodate weather forecast for the region you are visiting, check www.weather.com

Kilimanjaro on film

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 11:51:00 +0000

Many words have been written about Africa's highest peak. Some have waxed lyrical about the beauty of Kilimanjaro both from below and from its snow-topped summit. Others have described in uncompromising detail the tortuous ascent and the sheer relief not only of reaching the top but of getting back down to a manageable altitude.

In this round-up I thought it would be useful to focus not on the written accounts of Kilimanjaro but on a few of the video clips that provide insights of how it feels to climb this most challenging peak.

This first clip by jasonmedia provides perhaps the best imagery and could easily be part of an IMAX movie on Kilimanjaro. It's a good place to start if you want to get inspired to book your Kilimanjaro trek.

A rather rose-tinted view, but an appealing one no doubt. The second clip by whereisdanman offers us a more personal account of the final day of a Kilimanjaro trek. We see the climbers as they prepare for the onslaught that takes them through the night in order to reach the summit for the most spectacular sunrise. An uplifting soundtrack adds to the feelgood vibe that the guys obviously felt when standing at Africa's highest point.

The third clip from gerrylamarche is short but straight to the point. Gerry pulls no punches when he describes the extreme physical challenge he faced. But when he asks himself 'Was it worth it?' the answer is unequivocal.

The fourth clip by dunnthedirty shows a climber at his lowest ebb. It's worth watching just to recognise that climbing Kilimanjaro is certainly no Sunday afternoon stroll!

And finally this clip by a7dro. Here an inspiring African soundtrack plays out as we watch a group of determined climbers make their way from the base. The film shows us the great variety of landscapes and changes in terrain that anyone climbing Kilimanjaro will experience. It's a great clip to leave you wanting to plan your own Kilimanjaro adventure.

Into the crystal ball: Lonely Planet Top Countries for 2013

Fri, 02 Dec 2011 09:23:00 +0000

Each autumn the tourism officials of the world hold their collective breath as Lonely Planet announce their hand picked Top Destinations for the following year. The list for 2012 has recently been published and, rather like Eurovision Song Contest winners or the newly crowned Miss World, 10 countries have been celebrating their success at emerging from a formidable field ahead of their competitors.

For those who haven't yet seen the latest list, here are the Lonely Planet top countries for 2012:

Lonely Planet Best in Travel 2012

#1. Uganda
#2. Burma
#3. Ukraine
#4. Jordan
#5. Denmark
#6. Bhutan
#7. Cuba
#8. New Caledonia
#9. Taiwan
#10. Switzerland

The full Lonely Planet article can be found here.

Looking at the list over the last four years a few trends emerge. Look out for the following on any of the lists:

- A former pariah state that has come in from the cold

- A place that no-one you know has ever been to

- A country that is about to change forever (‘see it before the tourists arrive’)

- A hip and trendy European country

- Somewhere that has not featured on a previous list for at least 5 years

- A host country for an upcoming sporting event

- Somewhere that rightly or wrongly suffers from a reputation as a boring destination

Some of the Lonely Planet nominations for 2011 clearly didn’t live up to their promise. Pity poor Japan, who had hoped for so many new tourists yet the numbers of visitors crashed after the devastating earthquake and tsunami. And what about Syria, tipped for greatness yet only months later plunged into nationwide violence that has probably destroyed its tourist industry for a long time to come?

But such blemishes should not detract from the positive vibes around a list that gives hope to many countries of tourist dollars pouring into their coffers. So here, as a sneak preview, is a list that we predict might closely mirror the Lonely Planet Top Countries for 2013.

A snarky experts guide to the Lonely Planet Best in Travel 2013

#1. Uzbekistan – stunning Islamic architecture in the Silk Road cities and a government that consistently scores highly on the corruption index, only just behind Somalia and Burma.

#2. Greece - by 2013 the inevitable return to a greatly devalued drachma could make Greece a fantastic budget destination.

#3. Palau – Recently the subject of much debate by infamous travel writer @mrdavidwhitley who will be visiting the island in 2012. Small and perfectly formed (so the tourist board probably says), this Pacific island nation just needs a bit of the Lonely Planet publicity juice to really bring in the tourists.

#4. Moldova – this often forgotten European nation is home to many hidden charms. If Lonely Planet manage to discover them Moldova will surely take its place on the list.

#5. South Sudan – the newest nation on Earth needed a year to get themselves sorted out, but by 2013 should be ready to welcome the world into its dusty desert borders.

#6. Egypt – who knows what the political situation will be, but if Egypt gets its act together 2013 may be the perfect opportunity to make up for lost time in once again attracting the masses to its shores.

#7. Australia – so the Lonely Planet folks have omitted their own nation for fear of bias but by next year they’re bound to give in. Perhaps the Aussie dollar may even have dropped a little….

#8. Bolivia – South America’s unsung inland jewel, or so the Bolivian tourist authorities would probably say if you asked them. Still a cool place to include on your RTW trip.

#9. Cayman Islands – by 2013 bankers will have been bashed so hard that stinking rich will be the ‘in’ thing to be. Head out to the Cayman Islands to admire the world’s wealthiest specimens at leisure.

#10. Belgium – for similar reasons to Switzerland's inclusion in the 2012 list.

Where would you include in your list? Which country do you think is going to be the big winner when Lonely Planet sprinkles its magical fairy dust again in late 2012?

Photo: Zdenko Zivkovic

About Tourdust: We take a specialist approach to everything we do. We walk the trails and pore over maps evaluating different routes to make sure we can recommend the best adventure for each customer. We inspect hundreds of hotels and carefully pick the best and most reliable local guides. Each trip we organise is a deeply individual and genuinely local experience. Our areas of expertise are:
- Morocco holidays, Ethiopia and Kenya.
- Kayaking Holidays in the Mediteranean countries of Croatia, Greece and Turkey
- Multi-day treks in the Atlas Mountains, Simien Mountains, Mount Kenya, Kilimanjaro and Inca Trail
- Adventurous holidays for families. Many of our family holidays have been tested out by out founders own children.

Machu Picchu in photos

Sun, 27 Nov 2011 08:53:00 +0000

Whether you reach Machu Picchu on foot, via the iconic Inca Trail trek, or by bus from the gateway town town of Aguas Calientes, it cannot fail to capture your heart. The ancient citadel, surrounded by mountains, is a magnificent sight, made all the more intriguing by the fact that no one really knows what purpose it served during the Incan times. Theories abound, but ultimately it is up to each individual visitor to soak up the atmosphere and come to their own conclusions....

Intipunku, or the sungate, is where the Inca Trail ends and is regarded as the pilgrim's entrance to Machu Picchu. Day visitors can hike up to this point from the ticket entrance, it takes about an hour to reach the point. Most trekkers aim to reach here at sunrise, when the sun casts its first light of the day through the neighbouring mountains.

At this time of morning, the initial early morning view down to the ruins can be slightly disappointing,m especially for those arriving via the trek. The citadel is usually entirely shrouded in cloud, so there is not much to see. However, if you are patient and wait a while, then the cloud is slowly burned away by the heat of the sun and the ruins begin to emerge in all their glory.

As you descend towars the ruins, the view changes with every step, as new parts of the complex come into view. Compared to the archaeological sites of the Sacred Valley and along the Inca Trail, Machu PIcchu is vast, with Incan terraces and ancient buildings set against the back drop of the Huayna Picchu mountain.

Away from the main ruins, it is possible to hike to the ancient Incan Bridge, about a 20 minute walk. It is worth the effort as it demonstrates the sheer audacity of the Incan builders. This bridge, constructed along a sheer rock face, with stomach wrenching drops to the Urubamba river below, formed another exit from the site into the jungle, along a network of Incan Trails.

On the way back from the Incan Bridge, there is a stunning view of the ruins from a different angle. Fewer visitors come up to this part of the site, so it makes for a fantastic spot to sit and take it all in.

Summit Day - Uhuru Peak

Thu, 17 Nov 2011 23:05:00 +0000

Summit day is D Day on Kilimanjaro. The toughest mentally and the most demanding physically. From waking in the early hours in pitch black and sub-freezing temperatures to collapsing exhausted at camp at the end of the day, there is no respite. But what a reward. Here is what to expect.

Fitful sleep / Early starts:

Whichever route you choose, you’ll be spending the night before summit at an altitude of around 4,600 – 4,700m. At this altitude there are three serious impediments to sleep, (1) Cold overnight temperatures (well below freezing) (2) Altitude Sickness (mild head-aches and mild nausea if you are lucky) and (3) anxiety about the climb ahead. Still, sleep you will and for those attempting a sun-rise summit, you’ll be setting off in the very early hours (after midnight).

Kilimanjaro crater rim viewed from basecamp

Climbing to the Crater Rim:

The climb can be divided into two, the first ascent to the rim and then the traverse around the rim to Uhuru Peak. Machame reaches the rim at Stella Point (5,685m) whilst Marangu reaches the rim at Gillman’s Point (5,681m). You’re looking at a climb of around 1,000m in altitude gain from camp to the rim. This section involves a slow tack up the scree that, in the dark at least, affords little views other than the countless head torches of your fellow climbers snaking up the mountain.

Snack break on the way to Stella Point

A group snakes its way up to Stella Point

Reaching the crater rim offers the most visceral sense of having summited Kili. Many climbers, having hauled their unwilling bodies to this point, would quite happily call it a day here. It is not an unusual site to see trekkers flat out on their backs, whilst their guides try to cajole them back on their feet. It is a very bad idea to lie down at this point. A quick photograph, a snack and up is the safest approach.

Traversing the rim:

Depending on your route, the crater rim traverse can take 1 – 2 hours. If it weren’t for the prior exertions and extreme altitude this would be little worse than a walk in a City park. Unfortunately at this stage, legs are heavy, oxygen is scarce and temperatures are low. The view can be incredible, with the lunar landscape of the crater itself to one side, the dramatic glaciers and if you are lucky, far reaching views over the plains of Africa.

Taking photos into the crater

Uhuru Peak:

Uhuru Peak is the highest point on the rim and at an altitude of 5,895m, the highest point in all Africa. Depending on when you summit you may have to queue to get your de riguer summit photo in front of the jauntily angled summit sign. There are several poignant memorials at the summit, but a surprisingly scarce sense of drama. The emotion experienced by most is one of pure intense relief at having made it.

Never again

Avoiding Crowds at Uhuru Peak

Uhuru Peak can often be crowded, especially at dawn, when most trekkers aim to summit. A recommended alternative is to consider summiting in the day. Leaving camp around 6am, you can expect to summit after noon with few other people around. The only drawbacks are that there will be a greater likelihood of low lying cloud cover and you won’t catch the sunrise from the peak. For many these are small compromises.

Ascent #28 for the assistant guide

Scree running:

Having made it to the top, the only way is down and after making such a meal of getting up, the retreat is so much easier. That isn’t to take away from the jelly leg inducing, knee jarring descent, but the relief as your body finds itself in a more humane environment is palpable. Back at camp for breakfast / lunch, you can then either choose to rest at camp, or head straight on down to a lower camp above the treeline. At this point you can start looking forward to the luxuries of civilisation…

Kilimanjaro Crater Camp

Thu, 17 Nov 2011 23:02:00 +0000

A night at crater camp can be added to most routes. After summiting Uhuru Peak, you head down into the crater and set camp at an altitude of 5,790m in a harsh lunar landscape. This gives you the day to explore the frankly astonishing sites of the crater before heading back the next morning to catch the sunrise on the crater rim.

For those who can bare the physical discomfort, Crater Camp is often the highlight of Kilimanjaro. The landscape is the closest you will ever come to stepping onto the moon. The floor of the summit is covered in deep ash sands and lumps of raw volcanic rock. A deep blue glacier sits within the crater, begging to be explored whilst in the middle is the frankly terrifying ash pit, reminiscent of Star Wars barbed hole in the desert sand.

If the sun is up, it can actually be quite pleasant in the day time, but as soon as dusk falls, temperatures plummet down well below freezing (-15 to -25 degrees C) and lucky is the climber who doesn’t succumb to a piercing overnight headache. Not the raw ingredients for a good night’s sleep.

In the morning it is an easy walk to the rim of the crater for sunset (and a frankly smug view of a new days’ set of climbers struggling up the mountain). And then you can attack the descent with a renewed vigour.

It is not in any way advisable to spend a night at Crater Camp on the way up to Uhuru Peak. Quite frankly it would be madness. You have zero climb high sleep low differential, and stopping just 200m short of the peak is bonkers.

Our Kilimanjaro Treks

4 Alternative hikes away from the crowds

Thu, 17 Nov 2011 10:00:00 +0000

In a recent Tourdust post we explored why it is that people are attracted to climbing the highest peaks, even when these may not be the most rewarding ones to scale. This week we look at a few hiking destinations to consider for those who want to find an excellent overall trekking experience and who are looking for an alternative to scaling the highest peak.

Langtang Trek

While the path to the Everest Base Camp is now a very well worn one, relatively few trekkers make it over to the Langtang region of Nepal. Yet this area, close to the Tibetan border, offers some of the most rewarding hiking trails in Nepal. During a week on the paths of the region you are likely to cross high mountain passes, through dramatic ravines and wander through lush meadows. Our trekking in Nepal section offers more information on the Langtang region.

Mount Kenya

The second highest mountain in Africa enjoys far fewer visitors than its bigger rival Kilimanjaro, yet Mount Kenya offers many rewards along its varied slopes. The mountain is actually an ancient volcano that boasts a glacial peak. The climb up Mount Kenya passes through a variety of rainforest and bamboo terrain before ascending to more Alpine landscapes where the temperatures fall away quickly. Reaching the summit of Mount Kenya requires a pre-dawn start in sub-zero temperatures, but the discomfort is soon forgotten as you enjoy a glorious sunrise from the top.

Around Los Cuernos, Torres del Paine

While the most adventurous hikers will head for the famous 'W' trail in the Torres del Paine National Park there are several excellent alternatives in the Los Cuernos area of the park. Why would you choose an alternative? Well, for those who have tried to book spaces in the refugios in this part of the world the challenge of securing a place to sleep is all too clear. There is no porter service in the park and all visitors must carry their own packs. These factors mean that many less hard-core hikers who are looking to enjoy the dramatic views of the Torres del Paine Park but who want to do so without luggage and with a guaranteed comfortable night at the end of their trek might choose to base themselves within the park and take a series of long day-hikes. The long summer days allow for plenty of ground to be covered within the hours of daylight.

Montenegro

While the Alpine peaks of Switzerland and Austria attract hikers in their thousands, the landscapes a few hundred miles to the east of the Alps are no less dramatic. Yet this part of Europe attracts far fewer visitors. An extensive network of well marked trails criss-cross the northern mountains of Montenegro and make planning a multi-day hike easy to accomplish. The Durmitor area in the north west country toward the Bosnian border offers perhaps the finest variety of activities, with many excellent trails available out of the tourist centre of Zabljak. The Tara river canyon boasts some of Europe's most dramatic scenery; for those who want to do a little more than hiking the region is home to top quality white-water rafting too.

Best of Travel on the web - October 2011

Wed, 02 Nov 2011 11:03:00 +0000

Another month, another series of excellent posts to choose from. In this monthly feature we try to capture the best of the travel web in one single place. We're on the look-out for the best posts to recognise them in a special round-up post.

October 2011 has been another month of top quality posts. We have chosen three of the best in the following randomly assigned categories:

Best Photo Post
Best Travel Storytelling Post
Best Latin America Post

There's also an award for Best Photo of the month. There are of course many contenders for these prestigious titles, which are selected in an entirely subjective and unaccountable manner.

Best Photo Post - Northern Norway: The land of the midnight sun by anjci

It's hard not to take great photos in the Arctic wilderness of northern Norway. Long evening shadows that never fade, thousands of impossibly pretty islands dotted in crystal clear fjords and snowy peaks around every corner, this is one of the world's most picturesque corners. Step forward Anjci, who has produced a wonderful selection of photos from her recent trip to northern Norway. I defy you to look and these and not want to go there yourself instantly.

Best Travel storytelling post - Tears of a stranger by Matthew Teller

One of the most powerful posts you're likely to read this year. I won't spoil it with any introductions as there's nothing I could add to prepare you for the strength of emotions that Matthew's words provoke. Read it and you'll understand what I mean.

Best Latin America Post - Guayaquil, Ecuador: Dangerous Destination or Paranoia? by Hole in the Donut

I liked this post for one simple reason. Barbara visits a place with a bad reputation for violence and security issues and gives us a personal assessment of her time there. No "This place is safe" proclamations - just her own experiences from which we can draw our own conclusions as to whether we want to include Guayaquil on our Latin American journeys. A good read.

Best Photo - Sunset in Mykonos by Simon Falvo

This picture struck me for the perfect capture of the last of the evening light. And also, frankly, because I'd never seen windmills like these - they're very eye-catching!

If you have a photo or a post that you would like us to consider for the October awards just send us the link to the post via Twitter (@Tourdust) or in the comments box below. So on to the winning posts:

Reach for the stars: why the highest mountains hold the greatest attraction

Thu, 27 Oct 2011 11:04:00 +0100

Ask people to name the highest peak in their country or continent and a fair few will be able to do it. Ask again for them to name the second highest and the chances are that only the outdoor enthusiasts or geography geeks will come up with the right answer. This obsession we have in holding the highest peaks in awe extends to actually climbing them with our choice to hike or climb a particular hill or mountain often determined solely by its physical dimension or relative ranking.

Why is it that thousands of people are attracted the slopes of Mount Everest? Perhaps the prestige of reaching Everest Base Camp and being able to include the famous mountain's name in later travel stories is enough for thousands to choose this trek over the many alternatives. Similarly for those who force themselves up to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro: ask those who have been and most will speak of the tortuous final ascent, the feeling of sheer exhaustion at the top and the absolute relief at returning to a bearable, less hostile altitude.

For some determined folks, "because it's there" is reason enough to set out to climb a mountain. Seeing a peak on a map where its allocated number is bigger than all the others is the cue to plan an expedition to the summit. Those who have stood at the summit of the seven continents form a highly exclusive but much revered club.

Perhaps the language we use provides further insights into our obsession with the highest mountains. We talk about climbers conquering Everest, an inappropriate choice of words if ever there was one. Any climber would agree that no mountain can ever be conquered, and to claim this is both arrogant and dangerous. Witness the many accounts of explorers and climbers who have reached their target but failed to make it back to safety.

But this fascination with the highest, with achieving the 'no.1 challenge' does persist and is unlikely to change anytime soon. With this in mind, those who are looking for a great hike that offers the best all-round experience, perhaps with the best views and the most satisfying challenges, are often better looking beyond merely the height of the mountain above sea level or its ranking alongside other peaks.

Each country has its most popular trek, often one that promotes itself to those who set out with the aim of 'conquering' the highest peak. Listed somewhere just behind this star attraction is often a similar option in every respect other than the chance to boast of standing at the highest point of wherever. The 'second' option often has one very important advantage over and above its more illustrious rival: with most of the crowds heading to the main event you'll have this one all to yourself.

In the second part of this post, we'll look at some of the world's best alternative summits to climb.

Frequently Asked Questions about the Inca Trail

Tue, 25 Oct 2011 10:48:00 +0100

We have put together a list of Frequently Asked Questions about what to expect when trekking the Inca Trail. If any of your questions are not answered here, please don't hesitate to contact us.

Do I really need to book the Inca Trail in advance?

Access to the Inca Trail is governed by permits and in the peak months (May - September) these can sell out months in advance. To guarantee availability, we recommend you book around 5 months in advance.

When is the best time of year to trek the Inca Trail?

Peak season on the Inca Trail is May to September, coinciding with the western hemisphere's summer holidays. These months offer probably the best trekking conditions with fairly dry and sunny weather. However you will need to book earley, as June, July and August tend to book out 3,4 or 5 months in advance. October, November and December are also great months on the Inca Trail with fewer trekkers albeit with a fairly strong chance of rain on at least one day of the trek. Availability is also better, with spaces often available one month or less before departure. The rainy season runs from January to March - so expect it to be fairly wet at times, however it is still perfectly feasible if you have good quality waterproof gear. Again Inca Trail permits are a lot easier to get hold of at this time of year. The Inca Trial is closed during the month of February each year for conservation projects - although Machu Picchu and alternative routes are open during February.

Can children trek the Inca trail?

Children who are used to doing lots of walking can trek the Inca Trail, although for their own enjoyment, we recommend an age limit of around 12 (although younger children have been known to complete the trek). If you want to trek as a family, please contact us so that we can discuss your children's fitness in more detail.

How fit do I need to be to trek the Inca Trail?

We do recommend that you have a good fitness level. You do not have to be an exercise fanatic, but it is a good idea to start doing some regular exercise 2-3 months ahead of the trek.

One of the biggest challenges about trekking in Peru is the altitude. To help you acclimatise, we recommend the following:

Avoid alcohol & smoking
Drink lots of fluids
Avoid excessive or strenuous exercise when you first arrive in Cusco
Avoid sleeping pills
Spend 2 - 3 days at altitude before starting your trek
Drink coca tea (ancient remedy)

I am worried I will be too slow for my group

If you want to enjoy your trek, then don't see it as a race. Take your time to enjoy the views, take photos and catch your breath. Even slow trekkers reach campsites before nightfall! The guide will always walk with the slowest person in the group and will leave instructions for the faster walkers so they know where the meeting points are along the trail.

What if I get ill and need to turn back?

This doesn't happen very often. The guides are very experienced and will do their best to help each trekker complete their trek. In addition, a first aid kit and oxygen are carried for emergencies. If you fall ill and need to return to Cusco, you will be looked after and arrangements will be made for you.

What do we do about water on the trek?

Boiled water is provided from the 2nd day of the trek. You will need to bring water bottles with you, as the water is sterilised by the cook each morning and evening. On the first day, you will need to bring water with you. On this day, you will be able to buy water along the way.

How are the porters treated on treks I book through Tourdust?

Porters are provided with a full uniform, orthopaedic backpacks, trekking sandals and ponchos. They eat the same food as the trekkers (although they eat separately) Their weight limit is 18kg and this is enforced along the trail.

Once I have booked, can I change my departure date?

No, unfortunately not. Once your reservation is officially confirmed we cannot change your trekking date, or refund your permit.

Where do I store my bags whilst I am out trekking?

All hostels and hotels in Cusco will allow you to leave your bags whilst you are out trekking. Please remember to take your valuables with you.

Are there many toilets on the Inca Trail?

There are several toilets along the way, some are flush but the majority of them are of the squatting variety. They can be a bit grotty, but please try to use them rather than nature. Please bring toilet paper with you. When in your campsite, you will have a bathroom tent which will be just for your group.

Paris of the East, Venice of the North: cities that don't know their place

Wed, 19 Oct 2011 13:43:00 +0100

How often do you hear cities labelled as the 'Venice of the North' or the 'Paris of the East'? Do these labels ever seem appropriate? In this post we take a look at some of the most commonly used examples of this trend as well as some of the more ridiculous.

How many Venices?

It appears that every city with a beat-up stretch of stagnant water wants to be linked with the Italy’s famous tourist hotspot. Presumably the marketeers hope that by painting a picture of their town as one with gondolas and romantic serenades, people will flock to their often dreary and completely unconnected city. What is more surprising is that many of these cities are popular tourist destinations in their own right and shouldn't need a dodgy Venice connection to get attention.

Venices of the North include Amsterdam, Bruges, Manchester and Stockholm.

Western Venices include Venice, California (a fair call I guess) and Shannon in Ireland.

There are many contenders for Venice of the East. Bandar Seri Begawan, capital of Brunei, Suzhou in China, Osaka in Japan and Udaipur in India all lay claim to this much-acclaimed title.

Venices of the South are harder to come by. Perhaps there are less canal-blessed cities in the southern hemisphere, but the only one I could find is Tigre in Argentina. I've spent a day in Tigre and can confirm It has canals. Beyond that I'm stumped as to any Venetian connection.

And a special mention should go to the Venice of the Pacific, Nan Madol in the Federated States of Micronesia, a land where presumably water is never far away in any direction.

Paris, plastered all over the globe

After Venice, the city that most others aspire to be like must be Paris. We have the following candidates.

Paris of the East: Baku, Azerbaijan. It has cafes. Shanghai also lays claim to the Eastern accolade although I have to confess that standing on the waterfront it reminded me more of Liverpool, a view that our Chinese guide fully agreed with.

Paris of the North: Tromso, Norway. I've spent a week in Tromso and while I had a lovely time I can't claim to have noticed anything that felt remotely Parisian about it.

Paris of the South: Buenos Aires. This is perhaps the most commonly used connection of all. True, the buildings of Recoleta may bear a strong resemblance to the imposing constructions found in central Paris but otherwise it seems a spurious label. What is more, Buenos Aires has more than enough going for it that it shouldn't need to stand on the shoulders of any other city to get noticed.

Paris of Siberia: Irkutsk. You would imagine that for anywhere in Siberia that wants to adopt a pretentious moniker, the first thing they would drop would be the mention of Siberia. But no, Irkutsk is Siberian and proud and an attractive stop on the train ride from Moscow through to China. As for anything Parisian about it, most visitors would struggle to find a connection.

Rome

Several cities claim a connection to Rome, usually because they are built on seven hills. Others such as Lubeck in Germany or Goa in India claim to be the Rome of the North and Rome of the East respectively due to their abundance of churches and their religious history. None, to my knowledge, can boast a colosseum or the total anarchy of the real Roman streets.

Naples

It appears that Venice and Paris completely dominate the list for places to link to, but they are not alone. On a recent visit to Japan I learned that the southern city of Kagoshima is known as the Naples of the East. Not because it has a slightly edgy feel or because of its special tomato sauce, but because just like Naples, it sits at the base of an active volcano that is likely one day to bury it in hot ash. Not necessarily something to celebrate, but with such a shared fate I suppose it makes sense that the two cities have formed a brotherly bond.

Athens

The link here is usually universities and regional seats of learning, with both the Colombian capital Bogota and Freetown in Sierra Leone claiming the title 'Athens of ..... wherever'.

Where have we missed from the list? What other towns claim a dubious link to somewhere grander and more exotic? Is there a Walsall of the West? A Ouagadougou of the Pacific? How about a Funafuti of the Adriatic? Feel free to add your suggestions in the comments.

Thanks to Vicky Baker. John Malathronas, Susan Farlow and David Whitley for sharing some of their suggestions via Twitter while I was researching this post.

Photo by Olga Oslina

Our take: 5 day trek in the Simien Mountains

Thu, 06 Oct 2011 11:46:00 +0100

The following article appeared in the September / October issue of the Adventure Travel Magazine and was written by our Ethiopia specialist Ben. It gives a great insight into what to expect on a trek in the wonderful Simien Mountains of Ethiopia.

Dust ruptured into clouds as the old Landcruiser took us from the medieval City of Gonder to the Simien Mountains. The landscape seemed intensely dry. Hoards of goats and cattle scratched after the last remaining roots and tufts of golden grass. This was the first time I had left the cities in Ethiopia and what a contrast to the metropolis. Grubby kids ran from primitive wood huts to stare at the 'farenjis' who had come to walk in the Simien Mountains. In Ethiopia you don't walk for pleasure, you walk because you have to.

It was market day and floods of people carrying bundles of firewood, cow hides and sheep were headed into town - the crowd parting as we struggled through. Finally, after five hours of rutted dusty roads, we reached the mountains and with great relief set off on foot. Waiting for us was a huge view. 800m below and stretching towards the horizon lay the lowland mountains that cover such a vast swathe of land in Northern Ethiopia - it was a view we were to get very used to.

Ask most British people what they know of Ethiopia and they will tell you about the famine and Bob Geldof. Wander through the main cities though, and this view is hard to reconcile. Ethiopia is a country divided, divided by tribes, divided by religion and most pertinently divided by economy. 70% of Ethiopia's population are rural subsistence farmers, whose children help herd the family livestock from a very early age and whose precarious existence depends on the annual rains. By contrast, the urban middle class is growing fast, education is good and there is an unexpected sense of calm and order. Addis Ababa, the capital, hosts the African Union and a large number of NGOs. It has two world class museums, and a number of fantastic restaurants. So it isn't until you leave Addis behind that you start to get a feel for how the majority of Ethiopians live. This is where the Simien Mountains step in.

The Simien Mountains National Park lies at an altitude ranging between 3000 and 4500m. It is a relatively small slice of a huge mountain range and there is pretty much one trail that runs through it with various extensions for those with the time and energy. The trail passes along an incredible ridge and must offer the highest ratio of views to km anywhere in the world. Golden grasslands roll towards the precipitous drop and lowland mountains stretch towards the horizon. The superb wildlife is a huge feature. We'd heard tales of the rare gelada baboon, wallia ibex and Ethiopian wolf and even the elusive leopard. Our 5 day trek was to take us along the line of the ridge from our first camp at Sankaber at 3,230m to our final camp at Chennek 62km away. Along the way we'd be topping summits at Imet Gogo (3926m), Inatye (4070m) and Mount Bwahit (4,430m).

The crew for our trek was generous. In support we had our guide Tesfaye, our scout Adem, a chef and a chef's assistant - four people before you count the team of muleteers. Tesfaye had in all likelihood swallowed a birders handbook at birth and his English was excellent. Adem spoke no English, but his protective nature and toothy smile more than made up for it. All trekkers have to take a scout. The scouts are drawn from former army scouts who live in the area. Their job is to protect you and your belongings. Adem carried an old Russian rifle that deserved antique status. I nervously asked Tesfaye if there had been any trouble to justify the gun?

"Well not really. 2 years ago a bandit tried to steal from the camp, the scout fired a warning shot and he fled."

"So why the guns?"

"It is difficult to answer, everybody asks that question."

"And what do you answer?"

"The scouts helped protect the park during troubles. Employing them is returning the favour"

"But why do they need to carry a gun?"

"Well, Ethiopians like carrying guns" changing tack, I asked what where our chances of seeing the promised wildlife?

"The magnificent gelada, most definitely, the ibex probably, the wolf, well lets say 10%"

"And the leopard?"

Tesfay shook his head

"Ok we'll take the gelada, ibex and wolf, that'll do for us."

Tesfay laughed nervously at our British humour.

With a short acclimatisation walk on the first day, we set off from Sankaber Camp (3,230m) to Geech Camp(3,600m), an 8 hour 12km trek through giant heather forests, along towering ridges and through dusty farmland. The viewpoint overlooking the Genbar Falls was terrifying. Although dry at this time of year, the vertical 500m drop is unlike anything I have seen. Far below us black kites, falcons and lamergeyer vultures soared on the thermals.

The path up from the viewpoint marked our ascent into the higher altitude zone. Although short, the ascent was quick and at the altitude, punishing. Rather unfairly, enterprising villagers lurked with horses hoping to sell a ride up the hill. Like vultures they quickly identified the weakest link in the party and trailed closely. We proudly resisted, but many groups take the horses along for the whole trek to ease weary limbs.

The trail eventually found the village of Geech. Simple rustic mud and thatch huts were surrounded by quick growing Eucalyptus and the ever bizarre Giant Lobelia. We were invited in for a coffee ceremony. Cultural ceremonies tend to ring alarm bells, but I was thirsty and stooped to enter into the gloom. Inside the hut the matriarch lit the fire. Eventually accustomed to the dim light I took in the surroundings. The interior resembled a museum recreation from the middle ages. The family slept on a raised slatted platform above their cattle. An open fireplace in the centre of the hut was the focal point. Despite the fire, the lofty conical roof meant it was relatively cool and smoke free. We sat on rocks draped in sheepskin and watched as the family prepared the coffee, roasting the beans over the open fire before grinding and adding to boiling water. There was nothing put on about this, it is simply the way they live. We tried some simple English on the teenage daughter. She was 14, went to school and had a basic grasp of English. I took her photograph and immediately her shyness was replaced by a coquettish smile. Almost before I had clicked the shutter, she ran to see the picture.

"Is beautiful" she proudly stated.

The second camp, Geech, is situated in a beautiful exposed spot on vast open grassland a couple of miles beyond the village. Tawny Eagles and Vultures perched menacingly on the few trees in the site. We stayed two nights at Geech to give ample time to explore the standout viewpoint at Imet Gogo and get used to the altitude. To picture Imet Gogo, imagine two dramatic ridge joining perpendicular at a raised corner. This rocky promontory is reached via an easy scramble across a narrow rock ledge. From the top, breathtaking 360 degree views open up. Never mind Kilimanjaro, this feels like the real roof of Africa. Below us, we watched two red billed chaf cartwheel like fighter jets locked into a dog-fight. 800m below them, the lowland foothills of the Simien Range lay studded with rock pinnacles and table mountains. It is a view that wouldn't look out of place at Bryce or the Grand Canyon.

That evening, we walked to Kedadit (3,760m) for the sunset. The haze burnt dusty orange over the lowlands and we watched as distant troops of baboons clambered over the edge and down to their cliff side caves. Ethiopia has an immense Christian heritage, and in scenery like this, it is not hard to see why religion has such a stranglehold on Ethiopian culture. Far below on a small isolated promontory, Adem pointed out his home. There were three or four huts and a smattering of livestock around each. To the naked eye there was no discernible way to get on or off the plateau.

On the way back to camp I asked Adem his story.

"I joined the army when the Derg were in power. After 5 years they were removed. Fortunately the new regime asked me to join up, flushing out bandits from the mountains" (The Derg were the oppressive socialist regime which replaced the Solomonic rule in the 70s).

"Was it peaceful after the Derg were forced out?"

"Mostly we tracked the shifta (bandits) in the mountains. They hid in caves and only moved around at night. We got information from villagers and would attack them in the dark."

I asked him how they had been affected by the famine?

"It was ok here. We didn't have to move. The main problem was more criminals, more shifta in the mountains. One day my brother was taken by the shifta. I followed them for three days. I got him back."

In a country where disputes between friends are often settled with violence, I drew my own conclusions as to what had happened that day. Later Tesfay told us how the locals traditionally use the sap from the Giant Lobelia trees to develop a poison. The poison was used to settle disputes with friends, with the recipient either dying or going crazy - the outcome was left to fate.

The nights on the plateau were cold, so we huddled inside the bare-bones kitchen at the camp-site for evening meals. The chef was a master at conjuring complex multi-dish meals with just one burner and pan. A typical meal consisted of soup, rice fritters, casseroled chicken legs, cabbage, beetroot, fried potatoes and boiled potatoes with onion, all washed down with surprisingly drinkable Ethiopian wine. Breakfasts of porridge, pancakes and bread were equally good. After a long day trekking we were invariably met with a steaming flask of tea and superb Ethiopian coffee accompanied by popcorn and roasted grain. All in all an unfeasibly gourmet affair.

The only thing missing was the local staple, Injurra. Injurra is a sour pancake made typically from the local Tej grain. It serves as plate, spoon and carbohydrate three meals a day, 365 days a year to most Ethiopians. In one bizarre creation, named Injurra Fir Fir, the Injurra is stewed until soggy then served upon another injura. Ethiopians loyalty to Injurra is unyielding, before most meals our guide and chef would pop out to the rangers hut for a quick fix of injurra before sitting down to eat with us. Its absence on the trek is probably a wise thing, as most foreigners are less than enamoured by its charms.

The next leg of the trail involved a 20km trek from Geech Camp to Cheneck Camp, over the peak at Inatye (4070m). Our first close sighting of Gelada Baboons came as we climbed the escarpment towards Inatye. We caught on to the tail end of a troop as it disappeared down a steep gully. A handful stayed with us to pluck the last few roots on the ridge before appearing to plunge off the cliff edge. We hid behind rocks and stalked them as cautiously as we could. Inatye itself is a terrifying promontory with sheer drops either side, translated it means something similar to mama mia, and the name does it justice. We ate our picnic carefully that day.

After the windswept solitude of Geech Camp, the third and final camp at Cheneck came as a surprise. There are more trekkers and more locals around but still Cheneck shines. The views are outstanding, stretching over Inatye and Imet Gogo and it is a magnet for wildlife. We were beset by Gelada Baboons roaming the camp-site. Not to be outdone, a huge Ibex stag with long curved horns and a superb beard strolled right through camp oblivious to the David Attenborough wannabes following it with outsized SLRs. The profusion of relatively tame wildlife mocked our amusing stalking tactics earlier in the day.

On our final day we climbed Mount Bwahit (4,430m). Bwahit is high, but it isn't Ethiopia's highest. That mantle belongs to the nearbye Ras Dashen. We had bottled out on doing Dashen a long time before getting to Ethiopia. It has a reputation as a bit of a dusty slog with countless false summits. Bwahit though is a different beast. Just a 4 hour climb from Cheneck Camp, it offered great views from the summit and the promise of good wildlife. We set out at 7am, the air chilly with the sun still hidden behind the peaks. The route passed along a dirt road for the first hour and we had to hop to the side as the occassional Isuzu lorry thundered down in clouds of dust. It wasn't long though before we struck lucky. Just 50m away across the stream were two endangered Ethiopian wolves. With only 400 in Ethiopia and 40 in the Park, this was an incredibly rare encounter. Unfortunately, to my un-educated eye they looked more like big foxes than wolves. As we walked away, perhaps keen to prove their wolf like qualities, the pair gave an incredibly chilling howl that reverberated around the valley. More treats were in prospect. The path soon found the ridge again and framed in the magnificent view were Ibex, lots of them. Buoyed by our luck, we pushed on to the summit. After ascending almost 1000m in height in two hours we pushed through the easy scree and summited. It was the perfect end to the trek.

At the moment, the park receives only 6,000 trekkers but the linear nature of the trail is a worry. During our visit the camp-sites were comfortable with no more than 10 tents at any site. During the peak January to December period, there can be up to 50 tents in each site. So whilst guides do their best to stagger morning starts expect busy trails and viewpoints. For the moment, I'd recommend you plan to time a visit during the quieter months of September, October and November when the grass is green and the air is clear or alternatively February, March and April. The summer months of June to October are also quiet, but expect rain, lots of it. For the future, hopefully more trails and camp-sites will be introduced in the Park.

With the trek over we only had to make our way back to Gonder, which is easier said than done. Desperate for a hot shower and clean clothes we had to endure 5 hours of typically bone rattling roads and choking dust first. Never before has such a feeble shower been so warmly welcomed.

Best of Travel on the web - September 2011

Wed, 05 Oct 2011 10:12:00 +0100

September 2011 has been another month of top quality posts. We have chosen three of the best in the following randomly assigned categories:

Best Discriptive post
Best Travel storytelling post
Best Road Trip (or rail trip) post

There's also an award for Best Photo of the month. There are of course many contenders for these prestigious titles, which are selected in an entirely subjective and unaccountable manner.

Best Descriptive Post - Nairobi is Sweet. Wonderful. Chaos. by Wandering Trader

I've never been to Nairobi yet when I read Marcello's colourful account of the city it's a place that I'm pretty sure I'd enjoy. He uses mouth-watering descriptions such as "Chaos in Nairobi is like a group of fat kids trying to eat one slice of cake" and paints a picture of a place where the chaos is perhaps only an issue in the eyes of foreign visitors. Well worth a read, as it Marcello's own personal story.

Best Travel storytelling post - Biblical hummus by Yuval Ben-Ami

One of the more unusual posts I've read for a long time, yet in many ways one of the most memorable. The post is long, it meanders between the present day and historic events without an obvious pattern, yet the more I read the more I was gripped by the unravelling story. I highly recommend reading this for a dispassionate, intelligent insight into some of the many layers and paradoxes of modern-day Israel.

Best Road or Rail Trip post - A Week on the Trans-Manchurian Railway by The Professional Hobo

The idea of spending a week on a train might not appeal to everyone, but I can say from first-hand experience that the feeling of euphoria that comes at the end of the longest rail journey in the world is one of those lifetime highs that you'll never forget. It was a pleasure to read Nora's description of her trip between Moscow and Beijing and her tales of bad food, shady characters and bizarre time zones brought the happy memories flooding back. Sit back and enjoy her stories and photos from what was clearly an eventful week across the Siberian steppe.

Best Photo - Storm clouds in Yellowstone by Maxine Sheppard

I really liked the foreboding atmosphere of this scene. The sharp contrast of the road against the dark skies suggest the last remaining moments of brightness before an almighty downpour.

Are all landmarks worth preserving and restoring?

Wed, 28 Sep 2011 09:12:00 +0100

Take a stroll around the Old Town in the centre of Warsaw and you'll feel for all the world as though you are wandering through a place where the buildings have changed little in 700 years. Yet rewind to the end of the war in 1945 and you'd find barely one brick standing above another, the entire heart of the city having been levelled by several years of relentless destruction. Soon after the end of the war the city was rebuilt meticulously to resemble its former self, using old photographs and plans to ensure that where possible the old bricks were able to go exactly where they had previously been.

Are landmarks for ever?

Warsaw is rightly held out as a positive model of reconstruction and restoration. But is it an unshakeable fact that we should always restore and preserve our landscapes in their current states for all of eternity? After all, Christopher Wren's St Paul's Cathedral, now one of London's instantly recognisable landmarks, looked completely different from its predecessor that had been destroyed in the Great Fire.

Should Warsaw always be a perfect model of a 13th century city and Paris of 19th century architectural ambition? By the same token will Singapore be forever known as a prime example of late 20th century development? Will Chinese cities be held aloft as 21st century icons? What is it that makes our buildings worth preserving and restoring?

Look at the Silk Road cities of Uzbekistan and you'll find that most of the historic minarets and madrassas need almost constant attention to prevent them eroding into nothingness, so harsh is the desert sand on this fine buildings. Yet that preservation has been carried out by successive governments of whatever ideology, so precious are these monuments to a bygone era. Architectural beauty and historic significance are important of course

War and bad luck

Yet for many architectural landmarks that become intentional targets or expendable obstacles in violent battles their appearance is not enough. And when things are destroyed the will to rebuild them as they were depends on multiple factors. The famous 500 year old bridge that spans the Neretva river in Mostar was rebuilt as an exact replica less than 10 years after the end of the Bosnian war. It came to symbolise the breaking apart of communities within the same city and the need for them to be seen to be reconciled. Yet look at New York's Twin Towers and the many ideas that came about to build a suitable memorial on their former site; replication has never been considered as an option and the loss suffered by so many has made putting those same giants back in the Manhattan skyline unthinkable.

It seems that landmarks need a lot of luck to survive through the centuries; war, natural disasters and terrorism can strike in any corner of the world. They also need to be loved by the native population; finally, and perhaps most importantly, they must always remain an asset to the people of influence, whether it is through the tourist revenues they generate or political advantage that they might bring.

Buying the right souvenir from your trip

Wed, 21 Sep 2011 09:56:00 +0100

I always know when I step into the house of someone has travelled. Carpets, wall-hangings and a myriad of decorative ornaments typically greet me as soon as I enter the entrance hall. There is something that compels us to bring a little bit home of every place we visit, however regularly we travel.

We’re just the same, although I often spoil the fun for my wife as she finds many items in the local markets that will look good at home; items that pass me by as having any potential to enhance our home.

The tourist souvenir market has grown into an almost homogeneous machine around the world, with many ‘local’ gifts being mass-produced in large Chinese factories. Let’s look at the most typical souvenirs that you can buy pretty much anywhere:

Tackiest gifts

1. T-shirts – I think there are many places I’ve been to that didn’t sell T-shirts to visitors. Take a walk through London and look at the stalls and you’ll see that T-shirts are probably the best-selling item. I always struggle to understand why someone would want to wear an image of Rome or Sharm-el-Sheikh across their chest when their only connection to the place is that their grandparents visited on holiday; but it’s clearly a big market.

2. Fridge magnets – I have had to find an alternative location for the fridge magnet I was recently given, as my fitted fridge has a wooden door. I know some folks have a very impressive collection of magnets – for them there’s a reason to buy one of these to add to their global set. The collection itself tells a story and inspires many more. For anyone else though it’s kind of pointless; or am I missing something?

3. Russian dolls – the perfect gift from Russia. But why sell them in London, Paris or indeed a small village in the Lake District?

Locally produced

Not being the collector type I’ve never been tempted with magnets or matrushki but I do like to buy something before we move on. In most cases it’s a picture that we can hang on a wall when we get home. Batiks are great to pack in a rucksack and hand-produced postcards or photographs look good in a frame and weigh next to nothing.

While I'm not trying to set out a moral code of conduct for buying souvenirs, I'm sure most would agree that it’s probably better to buy from a market trader or shopkeeper rather than an international store. This is particularly the case in parts of the Middle East and China, where tourists are often corralled into state run enterprises where those who may have spent hours at their crafts see little of the resulting revenue.

Even putting the economic issue to one side, the simple act of buying from a local person and perhaps the negotiations around the purchase can provide a memorable encounter for both parties. And it's surely worth paying a couple of dollars extra to buy something from someone who created your chosen souvenir with their own hands, knowing that they are taking home a fair reward for their work.

Is a blog or a journal better for recording your trip?

Wed, 14 Sep 2011 09:44:00 +0100

It is becoming easier than ever to set up and maintain a blog during a trip. Whether the trip lasts for a year, a month or even a couple of weeks an increasing number of people are taking time on their travels to record their activities on the web for the world to see. But is this behaviour all that different from those who have long recorded their travel adventures in hand-written journals? As both methods are available to the modern traveller how should you decide which is best for you to use?

Millions of Blogs

Around one million new blogs are started every week. A fair few of these are created with the sole aim of posting updates and photos from a holiday for those back at home (whether they're interested or not). In a way this is a positive development all round, with family members no longer forced to sit through hours of endless photo shows and stories of drunken escapades. "Yes, I saw that on your blog" should be enough to stop someone in their tracks.

For the blogger too this tool allows the integration of photos and even video into a diary entry, producing a multi-media record of their trip which can be stored indefinitely in the ether and accessed from anywhere in the world. But what about the juicy stuff?

The Juicy Stuff

When someone writes a blog entry they write not only for themselves but for whoever they think will read it. Whether it be just family and friends or a wider web audience, personal reflections and observations have to conform to social norms and accepted language. After all, your boss (and future potential bosses) may find your blog when they check you out on Google.

Compare this with a diary or journal, where words were always written for an audience of one. Often jealously guarded and hidden even from lifelong partners, a journal would recall observations on countries, on their people and on individuals met along the way. It might tell of illicit encounters or infatuations, of moments of self-doubt or fear and could even speak of lofty ambitions that were later dashed or found to be embarrassing.

Who is the audience?

What is the best medium for your travel memoirs depends very much on what you intend to record. For factual recording of photos and where/when/who with information it's hard to beat the convenience of a blog and the ability to share it with anyone you want to in a mutually preferable way. If however you are the type of person who likes to record your most private and intimate thoughts as you stumble your way through a journey of adventure and self-discovery then I suspect a personal diary will be the better option.

The final irony here is of course that strangers would be far more interested in the content of the personal diary than of a timid factual blog.

The glorious unpredictability of land borders

Tue, 06 Sep 2011 10:34:00 +0100

We live in a world where you can look online and find answers to almost any travel-related questions. If you choose to take your research to the extreme you can almost eliminate the risk of any surprises occurring on your foreign adventures. You can check the bus times, know how much a taxi costs for a local and even find that hidden gem of a restaurant that nobody knows about, all within a few clicks.

Thank goodness for border crossings. In a world where much of the spontaneity of travel is being gradually eroded crossing some of the world's more unruly land borders can still provide that elusive excitement.

Crossing the Iron Curtain

I was lucky to start my travel adventures just before the fall of the Berlin Wall. I made a journey through East Germany to get to West Berlin and was subjected to what I still remember was a 30 minute ordeal by a woman who had surely represented the nation in previous Olympic shotput events. I had to tip out my entire rucksack, explain what my painkillers and Immodium tablets were for (using only the power of mime) and turn out my dirty laundry. She was particularly interested in the Polish names and addresses in my address book and demanded to know who they were. The irony of this interrogation was that the train wasn't even stopping in East Germany and was merely making its way from the northern coast toward West Berlin.

You pay me one dollar

Nowadays the most likely problems that travellers encounter are down to corrupt officials wanting to charge a small fee for their services. $1 is typical in Cambodia and Laos, $3 in Guatemala. Yes, you can stand your ground and ask for receipts or take down the names of the officials but these people can make your situation more difficult than it needs to be, while for a small payment you can be on your way with your passport happily stamped.

Of course, if you are taking a car or a motorbike across a border then the problems you can face are greatly multiplied. It is not uncommon to be detained for days and to be asked to pay fines or administration fees that might come to the value of your vehicle. Driving across borders in much of the world really does require a lot of luck to negotiate local entry requirements, whether or not they are made up on the spot by someone who sees every foreigner as a potential jackpot.

5 tips for crossing land borders

So how do you give yourself the best chance of negotiate a land border without losing too much of your time, money or even sanity?

1. Make sure you have the correct paperwork - don't give border officials a reason to pick on you. Always have any visas you need and make sure it covers the correct dates.

2. Try to avoid remote crossing at quiet times - we crossed from Laos to Cambodia in the middle of the day when there was absolutely no-one in sight. Every person in the border chain wanted their $1 from us.

3. Smile - being friendly will go a long way toward a smoother border crossing. Those who show arrogance or disrespect to officials are asking for trouble and will probably get it. Being polite and even engaging in small talk at the El Salvador border led to the guards chatting with us for some time and helping us out with our onward journey.

4. Don't fight the little battles - be prepared to pay your dollar and move on. If it makes you really angry then make a complaint through official channels once you're safely home. It won't achieve anything but at least you will have got on with your trip.

5. Most important of all: be lucky!

Best of Travel on the web - August 2011

Wed, 31 Aug 2011 10:14:00 +0100

July 2011 has been another month of top quality posts. We have chosen three of the best in the following randomly assigned categories:

Best Reflective Travel post
Best Adventure Travel post
Best Voluntourism post

There's also an award for Best Photo of the month. There are of course many contenders for these prestigious titles, which are selected in an entirely subjective and unaccountable manner.

Best Reflective Travel Post - The Death Of Random Travel Experiences by Wandering Earl

Everybody loves a good storyteller and perhaps the mark of a master is one who can make you wish for more, especially in our attention-deficient age. Step forward Earl and his wonderful post about not getting too dependent on our gadgets when we travel. He manages to illustrate his message with the most endearing of tales - one that I wanted to continue for longer. If there was ever a case well made for relying more on our natural curiosity than on gadgetry to get the most from our travels, this is surely it.

Best Adventure Travel post - Tips for Overland Travel in West Africa by Phil Paoletta on Fresh Roads

Discomfort, danger and unreliability. Hardly the most appealing of attributes, yet Phil manages to weave together his experiences of West African overland travel in such a way that these challenges seem almost appealing. Read his excellent post to learn how to survive a 40 hour journey and why you should avoid the 'death seat' on a bus at all costs.

Best Voluntourism post - Why you shouldn’t participate in voluntourism by Richard Stupart for Matador Change

The past decade has seen a rapid growth in people of all ages heading out to the developing world and combining their adventure holiday with a working assignment in a local community. They might choose to work in an orphanage, or a building site or providing teaching assistance.

But do should good intentions translate automatically into good results? An increasing body of opinion suggests that many such projects, rather than delivering the benefits that the participants undoubtedly look for, may indeed leave a negative legacy behind. This excellent post on the Matador site explore some of these problems and is a very worthwhile resource for anyone thinking of volunteering as part of their next travel adventure.

Best Photo - Sunset and Waterfall in Milford Sound, New Zealand by Gary Arndt of Everything Everywhere

What struck me most about Gary's photo is the intensity of the setting sunlight in the background contrasted with the brilliant colours of the waterfall and the waves of the sound in front. It's one of those scenes that has me staring for a long time and trying to imagine myself there on Milford Sound (my only day there was spent in very similar conditions).

If you have a post that you would like us to consider for the Septmber awards just send us the link to the post via Twitter (@Tourdust) or in the comments box below. So on to the winning posts:

Our take: three day Atlas Mountains trek

Mon, 29 Aug 2011 13:08:00 +0100

The days of travel agents are numbered, or so the press would have you believe. And they are probably right, if they are referring to the the traditional image of barely travelled high street reps whose knowledge of a destination is limited to what is in written down in the brochure in front of them. At Tourdust, we do things differently. The same person who helps plan your trek is the same person who decides which treks to run, plans itineraries with the local guides and of course who does what is only right and proper, gets out there and tests it for themselves. This is a trip report from a three day trek by our East Africa and Moroccan trekking specialist Ben;

50 switchbacks lays before us, up a steeper incline than I’d call healthy. It is hard to see how we will make it up the 500m ascent of loose scree, never mind the mule, laden with our gear and assorted pots, pans and victuals. So far the trekking has been relatively easy, but this is something else.

We’d just finished perhaps one of the best picnic lunches ever, taken on a Berber rug, perched like a flying carpet above an uninterrupted view of the peaks of the Atlas Mountains. Our trek chef, Mohamed had veritably skipped past us up a steep incline earlier this morning to get there first. With the mint tea served, he set about producing yet another set piece lunch. A crisp fresh Moroccan salad, an unctuous tagine of lamb and tomato stewed in a vast multitude of spices and topped with fried eggs. I’d seen something similar before in a Rick Stein.

After every great picnic is a great climb and the climb up to Aguelzim pass was as tough as it looks from afar. Inevitably, with a steep incline of loose scree, every two steps forward is met with one slipped back. Not that it does anything to deter a fully laden mule and middle aged chef who for the second time that day powered past us at an astonishing rate. Wounded egos aside, the views are tremendous, I’ve often reflected that the serenity and lack of occasion that a pass or ridge demands is far preferable to the swagger and crowds of the big peaks. This pass played true to form, a dramatic saddle with views over wave upon wave of peaks, the Sahara Desert and Toubkal massif. Amongst a trek of many highlights, this was undoubtedly a defining moment.

We’d set out a couple of days beforehand from Marrakech. The drive to the mountains is relatively short, but long enough to warrant a quick stop for yet another cup of mint tea at a café in Asnil. The subject of mint tea was to become a recurrent theme as it accompanied breakfast, lunch and dinner and a number of other stops in between. Served straight up, it contains such a massive dose of sugar that it’s a wonder that most Moroccans still have teeth to speak of. I tend to ask for it without sugar, which normally means only a couple of tablespoons are added to the pot rather than the customary skip load. Ignoring the mild concerns about glucose intake, the food and drink was superb, easily besting anything I’ve eaten in Marrakech. The breakfasts were simple (bread, jams, tea) but lunch and dinner always fantastic. Without doubt the best I’ve had on trek anywhere in the world.

We followed a route from the Imlil Valley over to Tinzert. The terrain at the lower altitudes is positively Mediterranean in feel with dry scrub broken up by gnarled old Juniper trees and a profusion of thyme and rosemary growing close to the red earth. Our first night was spent in a very simple village gite, with four salons set around a central non-descript courtyard, an uninviting but clean bathroom and a room for our cook to prepare meals. The salons were part sitting rooms, part dining rooms and part bedrooms. Surrounded on all walls by soft seating, we spread out our sleeping bags after dinner and got a great night’s sleep. The view at breakfast made it all worthwhile, as we watched the sun slowly light up over the mountains across the valley.

The trek that day up through the Azzaden Valley is special. Set against the barren valley walls the valley floor is awash with vibrant colour, as the groves of Walnut trees, the rushing mountain stream and grassy banks compete for attention with the mountain tops twinkling in the distance. We stopped for a mint tea at a home in Ait Aissa and were treated to delicious freshly baked bread accompanied by home produced olive oil and salt. The stop was unnecessary, as lunch was only an hour away, but boy was it worthwhile, a happy stomach is a happy trekker.

It would be remiss not to mention the lives of the villagers whose homes we passed. Life in the small Atlas villages is very much still a subsistence game. Families tend flocks of sheep and usually have a grove of walnut trees somewhere in the valley, but evidence of poverty is rife. Electricity and mobile phones may have reached the mountains, but clean running water and decent refuse systems have not. Sensitive Western eyes will be shocked by the discarded plastics and litter that is woven into the fabric of paths and buildings and disturbed by the sight of livestock and people sharing the same less than clean water source for drinking and washing.

What does come as a pleasant surprise is the lack of begging, which is very much frowned up by the guides and village communities. With any visit to the Atlas Mountains though, the biggest shock is in returning to civilisation. In contrast to the alcohol free, deeply conservative mountains, the alcohol infused nightlife, fine dining and boutique riads of Marrakech can be quite a shock.

What is it like to trek the Inca Trail?

Fri, 26 Aug 2011 13:16:00 +0100

The Inca Trail is one of those iconic treks that I have always wanted to do. I managed to miss South America completely on my first round the world trip, so when I was given the chance to go to Peru for Tourdust, I jumped at the chance. The opportunity of trekking through the Andean Mountains for three days culminating in a sunrise arrival at Machu Picchu was something I could never refuse. So, I booked my ticket, dusted off my backpack and headed off to the Southern Hemisphere.

Even seasoned travellers are not immune to the horror stories of acclimatisation and instant doom when they fly into altitude from sea level. As the plane started its descent amongst the mountains into Cusco, I wondered whether I would survive long enough to find out whether my brand new hiking boots would give me blisters. To my surprise and delight, I made it to my guesthouse in Cusco and despite being ridiculously out of breath every time I attempted to climb upstairs and a dull headache, I was in pretty good shape. I followed acclimatisation instructions to the letter, drank copious amounts of coca tea and rested, almost obsessively, for the first 24 hours. I met with my guide for the pre-trek briefing. He was lovely, with smiling eyes he reassured me that the symptoms of altitude sickness would pass and that trekkers with a good level of fitness had no problems once they were off trekking. At the back of mind I couldn't help the nagging of self-doubt that was creeping through me. Was now the moment to admit that I had done absolutely no trip preparation and the last time I did any regular exercise was as a student running to catch last orders at the pub. I decided to keep schtum and nodded sagely.

The first morning of the trek was a painfully early start. I had what would be the last shower for several days, donned my hiking boots and waited for the pick up. We were transferred by bus to the starting point of the trek and met with our guide and porters. There were 10 of us trekking altogether we smiled nervously at each other. My fellow trekkers were, for the most part, a good 10 years younger than me. I felt old and out of shape. With dread building inside me I wondered what I had let myself in for and why on earth I hadn't done this in my backpacking days. There was no time for self-doubt, however, as we started off walking towards the check point and the beginning of the trail.

The first five minute of the trek were some of the most surprising of my life. We crossed the bridge and started walking up what looked like a steep incline. Actually, compared with what was to come, it was a very medium incline. I positioned myself at the back of the group and panted as I walked. As I reached the top, everyone else was in the same shape as me. There was almost a communal sigh of relief as we realised that we were all in the same boat.

For the rest of the day, we trekked together, introducing ourselves and sussing each other out. Every now and then I would stop and look around me. The scenery was breath-taking. The Urubamba river roared beneath us and the snow-capped peaks formidable. Over the course of the next few days, I would never fail to be moved by the beauty of my surroundings. We headed onwards, with the inclines becoming steeper. As we trudged along, we were overtaken at a great pace by the porters carrying camping gear and supplies for the trekkers. One was balancing a dozen eggs at the top of his pack. They seemed to almost dance along, despite their heavy loads. I was also met by trekkers coming in the opposite direction. The Inca Trail is a one-way trip, but some people (usually those who haven't spent any time acclimatising) have to turn back early on due to altitude sickness. It was a sobering sight. I slowed my pace, took time to take lots of photos and determined to enjoy every moment.

The second day of the trek is the one that people fear most as it involves climbing Dead Women's Pass and, more significantly, climbing to an altitude of 4,200. Even the porters slow down at this altitude. The group split up, everyone taking the trek at his or her own pace. Despite the fact that I had read accounts of the trail being busy and over-crowded, I barely saw anyone else during that day. I panted my way to the top, pausing along the way to admire the beautiful flowers and the magnificent views. Reaching the top of the pass was an incredible feeling. My sense of achievement was only over-ridden by the awe-inspiring setting.

By the morning of Day 3, we were all very well acclimatised and the trekking felt much more manageable. Today we were to climb a further two passes, stopping along the way to explore Incan ruins. The ruins I saw were so beautifully preserved and in such a dramatic setting, it would be hard not to be bowled over by them. As someone raised in the West, where so much of our culture and history is well documented, it was fascinating to be somewhere where the entire theories of a civilisation were based on stories and hearsay. With no written word from the Incas themselves, all we know about them is what the Spanish conquistadores recorded and what has been passed down in story from for generations. I loved the fact that I was at liberty to devise my own theories about their heritage. I was now fully immersed in my trekking experience. The grotty squat toilets were no longer a problem and I wasn't craving a shower. As far as I was concerned, this trek could go on and on. The rest of the world felt a very long way away. The trekking was much easier going as well and as we started to descend towards our final campsite, I was filled with excitement about getting to Machu Picchu the next day.

Another early start the next morning as we were aiming to arrive at the Sun Gate in time for the sunrise. We walked silently with head torches to show the way. This was the first time I became aware of quite how many other trekkers there were on the trail. I had seen other people at the campsites and along the way, but for the most part, when walking it had just been our group. Because everyone in the campsite heads off together on the final day of the trek, there were all of a sudden many more people around. It didn't feel like a jostle, though, more like a silent pilgrimage. After a 2 hour trek, we reached the sun gate and I found a quiet spot on a rock to watch the break of dawn. A feeling of immense elation washed over me as the sun rose from behind the mountains and the mist began to lift, revealing one of the most beautiful views of Machu Picchu. Seeing the wisps of cloud shrouding these ancient ruins the elation was impalpable, I had survived the Inca Trail and not only that I had really enjoyed myself.

White Water Rafting in Peru's Sacred Valley

Fri, 26 Aug 2011 11:11:00 +0100

All received wisdom about acclimatisation suggests that you should spend a few days taking it easy at altitude before commencing on a trek. So when I arrived in Cusco in advance of trekking the Inca Trail, I had a few days to spare to explore locally. I had already planned a tour of the Sacred Valley, but decided it would be fun to see the Valley from its river; The Urubamba.

I had opted for this as an acclimatisation exercise because I figured I would be sitting down and it wouldn't really count as exertion. As it turned out, there is more to rafting than meets the eye. You have a very long and involved safety briefing which instilled the fear of God into me, I was planning a gentle drift down a river and here I was being given instructions on capsizing. I needn't have worried, though. Once you get into a rhythm of paddling it is a lot of fun. The class 3 rapids were big enough to give me an adrenalin rush and fast enough that I forgot all about my impending trek and concentrated on paddling like crazy through the water. It was a fantastic way to let off steam. Buoyed by my success, I returned to Cuso elated. If I didn't make the Inca Trail, it wouldn't matter, I clearly had a future career as professional rafter.

This trip only operates from April to November. We recommend this trip for the over 12's as the rapids can be too rough for younger children. If you have younger children and would like to include a gentler option in your itinerary, please get in touch.

The World's Best Snorkelling Sites

Wed, 24 Aug 2011 09:14:00 +0100

Snorkelling is often referred to as the lazy man's sport. Floating on your belly, face in the ocean and flippers moving gently if at all, you relax and enjoy what in many places can be a truly unforgettable visual experience. It doesn't involve any of the equipment that diving requires and you often don't even need to take a boat to reach your snorkelling site, with many of the world's best sites close to the shore.

There are many arguments online that attempt to provide a list of the top snorkelling sites in the world. Take a look at this Lonely Planet Thorn Tree thread or this rather pretty slide show from Forbes as examples of how much opinions vary on this topic. Despite these differences there are a few places that are consistently regarded as having some of the world's best snorkelling.

1. Red Sea - wherever you choose to stay on the Red Sea coast you are likely to be have very easy access to some excellent snorkelling. The underwater magic starts close to the shore even in the tourist hotspot of Sharm el Sheikh, while smaller resorts such as Nuweiba are considered to have some of the best snorkelling in the region.

2. Seychelles - it's an expensive place to come for snorkelling and you'll be sharing your holiday with countless honeymoon couples - ok if you're a honeymoon couple yourself of course. With crystal clear warm water, coral only a few metres from the shore and fish bumping into your feet as soon as you step into the water this really is an easy way to enjoy the spectacular underwater world.

3. Australia - snorkelling or diving in Queensland are high of the list of popular activities on a trip to Australia and the Great Barrier Reef certainly needs no introduction. If you join the thousands who take a boat from Cairns or any of the other resorts along the Queensland coast to explore the reef you won't be disappointed whether you choose to snorkel or dive. The other side of Australia is also worth a look with the little known Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia a great place to snorkel among the easily accessible reef. It's also considered the best place to swim with whale sharks, the world's largest fish.

4. Hawaii - there are so many great locations to choose from and on any of the islands you can find the perfect place to don your mask and head into the warm water. My favourite memory of snorkelling off the coast of Maui was seeing several turtles swimming very close to us as we paddled close to our boat.

5. Galapagos Islands - most visitors come to the Galapagos Islands to experience the unique flora and fauna on the islands themselves, but the underwater treasures of the islands are every bit as spectacular. Snorkelling in the Galapagos offers the chance to see golden rays, eagle rays and Galapagos sharks, as well as the chance of spotting a hammerhead shark.

Where is your favourite snorkelling site in the world and what makes it so special?

Why you should ditch the map and get lost

Thu, 18 Aug 2011 09:00:00 +0100

You arrive in a city and check in to your hotel before getting ready to hit the streets and explore your new surroundings. What is the most important item that you choose to take with you on your walk around town? For many people it will be a map, whether contained within a guidebook or a separate sheet of multi-folded paper. A map allows you to plot your own city tour, to find the most direct route between two points and most importantly to find your way again when you get lost. Given such obvious benefits is there any justifiable reason why you should choose to leave your map behind?

The joy of getting lost

Many people have a fear of getting lost. Within the confines of a city however, temporarily losing your bearings is rarely going to lead to you veering too far off course and there are often clues (street signs, metro maps) to help you work out where you are. Besides which, ending up somewhere you didn't expect to be is usually no bad thing. It is those moments where you stray from your intended trail that can reveal the most memorable surprises: the little-known local bakery, the fantastic bar or the beautiful old church that wasn't in the guidebook.

More than this it is often by ditching the map that we stop looking down at our route on a piece of paper and start appreciating what is actually around us. It's a lot easier to admire buildings, observe local dress and engage in some serious people watching if we don't have to concern ourselves with following a particular trail.

How to get by without a map

So next time you're exploring another city and are nervous of heading out without a map, just take a few moments to follow these simple steps and your unguided stroll around town should be a pleasant journey of discovery.

1. Study the map in advance and know the rough whereabouts of two or three places that you are determined to visit. Knowing their locations relative to the central square or cathedral/main mosque is often enough to find them.

2. If there is a major river that runs through the city make a mental note of its course (north-south or east-west).

3. Know where your hotel is located relative to the main landmarks and pay attention to landmarks as you leave your hotel so that you recognise them on your way back.

4. Go out and enjoy!

Highlighted review: 7 day fathers & sons custom Atlas trek

Wed, 17 Aug 2011 10:27:00 +0100

Peter Lemon travelled with Tourdust on a 7 day custom trek in the Atlas Mountains in August 2011. Read on for his take on the trek:

Five middle aged fathers and their teenage sons headed to Morocco in high spirits for a 6 day trekking trip culminating in an ascent of Mount Toubkal. Despite 4 members of the group missing the Saturday afternoon flight we were soon re-united due to an early Sunday morning flight and some quick planning by Mohamed. We met our guides Ibrahim and Mustapha and headed into the high Atlas. We had researched the trip and designed our own bespoke itinerary to include less walking on tracks and more ridge walking and summits. This worked really well although we were a bit over-ambitious, and we had to adjust things to suit the capabilities of the bulk of the group. I would strongly recommend the more adventurous trekker to consider following a bespoke route. We spent the entire week in glorious isolation, not seeing another tourist between the first night and the last night on the mountain. We camped in some surreal places, up to 3456m in altitude, and our only interaction with other humans was with the wonderful Berber people.

Our chef Samir provided us with plentiful, healthy food as well as helping the guides during the day. None of us suffered from any tummy troubles which pays tribute to his skill and cleanliness. He also provided us with copious amounts of “Berber whisky” otherwise known as mint tea. The muleteers did a great job of looking after the camp and moving our gear from site to site with total efficiency.

The fact that it was Ramadan (and the tough daily sectors) meant starting at 5:30 most mornings and our longest day lasted 11 hours. We worked really hard with most people struggling at least once with the altitude or fitness. However the boys all performed really well with winging at a minimum. They just got on with it despite the hard work, long days and some scary scrambling sections.

After the Toubkal ascent we headed back to Imlil and then onto one night in the luxurious Chez Momo which came as a real treat after such a hard week before returning to the UK still in high spirits and totally fulfilled by our tremendous experience.

I have nothing but praise for Tourdust and Mohamed who did everything possible to make this holiday one to remember by five very proud dads and five inspired teenagers.

If you are interested in arranging a trek in the Atlas Mountains, start your research at our trekking in morocco page which includes all our trekking itineraries (1 - 6 days) as well as guides to the Atlas Mountains and climbing Toubkal. If you want to get in touch about a custom trek in the Atlas Mountains, email Ben on help@tourdust.com.

Ethiopia, famine and whether to travel or not?

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 10:46:00 +0100

Ethiopia is once again in the news. With famine declared in neighbouring Somalia, an ensuing refugee problem and drought and poverty issues of its own to tackle, it is worth asking whether now is the time to travel to Ethiopia.

The reality is that Ethiopia is a large country, and the areas affected are a long way removed from the lives and locations encountered by tourists in Ethiopia. It is fascinating asking Ethiopians about their recollections of the famine in the 80s. Many have less awareness of it than we do in the UK. Famine is a regional problem in Ethiopia. Visitors are often surprised by the gulf between their vision of a famine torn country and the relatively well organised and well-schooled urban areas.

In considering whether to visit, there are two main considerations, the logistical and practical impact the events will have on your trip (will I be able to get around, will there be food and drink available etc.) and the ethical impact (will my visit in any way hinder the aid effort, will it aid the economy etc.) and it is worth dealing with both separately.

#1 The Logistical and practical implications: The logistical impact of the famine on a visit to Ethiopia at the moment is negligible (arguably non existent). The famine hit areas are a long way from the tourist trail and there will be no shortage of food or drink, the restaurants and bars will be as busy as ever serving the local Dashen and St George beers.

#2 The ethical implications: The ethical argument is necessarily more complex, but most are of the opinion that stopping visits and depriving the economy of tourism spend will only do more damage. The Ethiopian economy is at the awkward historical moment where it must shift from a primarily subsistence agriculture based economy to a more industrialised economy. With 70% of the population still living subsistence rural lifestyles, clearly there are challenges ahead. One of the best hopes Ethiopia has to minimise the brutal cultural impacts of this change on those affected is a strong and thriving tourist economy. There are no rights and wrongs when it comes to ethical judgements, but those interested would do well to read this thoughtful post on the subject of ethical judgements on where we should and shouldn't travel.

As ever, visitors are advised to check the latest travel advice from the FCO. There is also excellent advice from addisadvisor on this Tripadvisor forum thread

Do all travellers serve as national ambassadors?

Wed, 10 Aug 2011 08:47:00 +0100

How many times have you observed a group of tourists behaving in a particular way with total disregard to their surroundings and muttered, "Typical bloody ........ (insert Brits/ Americans/ Aussies/ Germans/ other)". We see other people acting in a certain manner or even dressing in a particular way and can often guess where they are from, merely by the stereotype to which they are conforming.

I have to admit that we often play 'guess the nationality' where, in a popular tourist spot we will sit and watch the crowds go by and try to work out where people are from just by their mannerisms, the clothes they wear and the way they interact with both their own group and other people.

Which way prejudice?

The fact is that when we venture away from our homeland we are too often pre-judged according to those who have gone before us. If we turn up in a small town in Morocco and a week earlier a group of rowdy, drunken and unpleasant Brits have been staying many locals will be less than delighted to see more Brits arriving and will fear a repeat performance. If we arrive on that hiking trip in the Andes immediately after a British couple had spent their entire tour complaining about anything and everything the guide may well keep a wary eye on us in case we behave in the same way.

Just as we are judged by those who went before us, so will others later be greeted and treated according to how we behave. If we act as the model visitors, displaying respect, curiosity and sensitivity, then anyone who follows us with our ‘label’ (Brit, English-speaker, European, depending on where we are) will find the hospitality they receive influenced by our earlier actions.

Should we care?

So what, you might ask? Is it our responsibility to act in a particular way? We sign up for a holiday, not to serve as ambassadors for our country. Can’t we just do what we want to do without carrying out this unwelcome and uninvited role?

The answer of course is that we are free to do as we please and have no obligation to take on any ambassadorial considerations when we meet other people on our travels. We can be considerate or selfish, curious or ignorant. After all, the chances are that we’ll never meet the same people again. But whether or not we accept it, when we visit out-of-the-way places we are influencing how others will be received when they follow in our footsteps. Surely it makes sense to make life easier for them, just as we hope others have done for us?

Photo: Malias on Flickr

Best of Travel on the web - July 2011

Wed, 03 Aug 2011 09:30:00 +0100

There are so many excellent articles and blog posts each month that it's impossible to keep track of all. In this monthly feature we try to capture the best of the travel web in one single place. We're on the look-out for the best posts to recognise them in a special round-up post.

July 2011 has been another month of top quality posts. We have chosen three of the best in the following randomly assigned categories:

Best Visit to a Non-Existant Country post
Best Dealing with a Foreign Language post
Best Off the Beaten Track post

There's also an award for Best Photo of the month. There are of course many contenders for these prestigious titles, which are selected in an entirely subjective and unaccountable manner. If you have a post that you would like us to consider for the August awards just send us the link to the post via Twitter (@Tourdust) or in the comments box below. So on to the winning posts:

Best Visit to a Non-Existant Country Post - Deported from a country that does not exist by James H on Travellerspoint

Think of the hardest places to enter (or leave) and most will be far away from the perceived comfort and security of Europe. Yet within our continent lies a small area of disputed land that has declared independence from its official home of Moldova. Trans-Dniestr is made up mainly of exiled Russians who have the strong backing of the Russian army to protect their attempts at autonomy. In this post James makes his way in and out of this territory and finds out just how unpredictable crossing an unrecognised border can be. An excellent post.

Best Dealing with a Foreign Language post - On teaching English to children in Korea by Jake Hollingsworth on Art of Backpacking

Arriving in a new country with no knowledge of a language is challenging enough. Imagine then being dumped in a school with a gaggle of very young children who don't know a word of English and the difficulties of communication grow exponentially. My respect therefore goes to Jack Hollingsworth who had to face exactly this situation in Korea. His account is hilarious and at the same time a powerful antidote for another who has a yearning to go abroad to teach English. Well worth a read.

Best 'Off the beaten track' post - Svalbard – polar bear country by Sophie's World

Of all the world's remote places, Svalbard must be up there as one of the most inhospitable and isolated. Home to miners and polar bears and only the occasional passing tourist this group of islands are about as close to the North Pole as all but the hardy Arctic explorers can reach.

Sophie starts her post with the wonderfully understated 'I'm here with my daughter to look at the Russian Arctic mining settlements' as if it's the most natural thing in the world to do. An excellent post and some breathtaking photography.

Best Photo - Toucan in the Amazon by Wandering Trader

There are many superb photos to choose from but I was particularly struck by this wonderful character and his/her interaction with the camera. I'm sure the photographer was pleased with the resulting image but can't help wondering about the state of the lens after the toucan had finished with it.

How to create your own backpacker town

Wed, 27 Jul 2011 09:07:00 +0100

Wherever you go in the world, be in the jungles of South America or the plains of East Africa, you’ll eventually stumble upon a place that serves as the local hang-out for anyone passing through. Rather like the old caravanserai dotted around the ancient Silk Route these places offer a bed for the night, food and drink and a chance to catch up with fellow travellers who may have news of the road ahead. Unlike those early-day voyagers however the modern day frequenter of these routes is not carrying goods to sell in a faraway land – the chances are that his/her pack holds nothing more exotic than a few weeks’ worth of dirty laundry.

So how do these oases spring up and what are the essential ingredients that make these places so popular? If we wanted to set up our own traveller hangout in the middle of nowhere what would it need to include? Here are just a handful of suggestions.

1. Internet café - the first port of call for all who arrive in this town. Hours or even days on the road will have left new arrivals tired, thirsty and possibly starting to ramble incoherently. A quick internet fix is proven to be the most effective solution to these symptoms. Bonus points on offer if the entire town can offer free wi-fi coverage.

2. All-night bar, with non-stop football/music videos on large screen. Full marks if volume is kept at maximum even when the bar is empty.

3. Immaculately untidy hostel - should look like it was an important building in another era – extra marks if it can claim to have once been a brothel.

4. Frozen yoghurt and shake café - for thirst quenching only and certainly not for the purpose of creating ‘happy shakes’, whatever they are.

5. Gear shop – backpackers are no different to the rest of the population and will appreciate the chance to replace the clothes that may have given up their ghost since the last stop. Fisherman’s pants, sarongs and very cool hats are must items to keep in stock.

6. Travel agent – remember that people will only be passing through. Everyone needs a ride out of town and it’s your local tour guy who can offer them a range of escape options. He can also provide jeep rides, rafting trips and bike hire for visitors. Cash only, of course.

7. Sunset bar – for those who are too old, too sophisticated or just too cool to stay in the sports bar, a little straw hut a short walk away from the action can provide a perfect place to sit in silent transcendental meditation with a cool beer in hand while watching the sunset.

8. Fast food joint – not a recognised American chain of course, but preferably a place that makes a thinly disguised and badly executed attempt at looking like one.

9. Slow food joint – this is the place where someone has set up a restaurant with a single portable gas stove. An omelette will take an hour, a pizza maybe longer. For a table of four a meal is by necessity an all-night affair. There is ample beer so no-one complains.

10. The long-haired ex-pat expert – it is the people who make a place and every traveller community needs a respected fully-pledged dude at the helm. Usually a veteran of the travellers’ community he passed through while hitch-hiking years ago when there was nothing here and decided to create a place for travellers like him. Full of useful local information but might get nervous if you say you work for the government.

What else would you add to your perfect backpacker town?

Packing the right book for your travels

Thu, 21 Jul 2011 08:01:00 +0100

When choosing what book to pack in your backpack you should "read a novel that had no relation to the place you're in." So says Paul Theroux in his book The Tao of Travel. According to Theroux we should throw out those Eric Newby books before we set off for the Hindu Kush and equally dispense with those far-fetched novels telling of random romps in colonial Africa when packing for our safari trips.

This got me thinking about the types of books that we do take on our travels. Take a look at any bookshelf in a hostel or guest house and among the usual dog-eared travel guides of neighbouring countries you'll find a very diversity of titles and topics, from gritty criminal novels to surgical textbooks (yes I really have seen these!). How do you choose the books you take on your travels?

Fiction

A novel offers us a chance to get lost in a world of dangerous intrigue or fantasy romance set in the place we happen to be visiting. Despite Theroux's words such a choice will have the reader seeing their temporary surroundings in a very different way to their travel companions. Quite likely we will imagine masked gangsters or a femme fatale waiting around street corner.

An author can even influence how we expect the weather to be (since reading Shadow of the Wind I imagine that Barcelona should be perpetually shrouded in mist). Taking a particular Agatha Christie book on the Orient Express may be ultimate cliché in this genre and we shouldn’t underrate the influence of Don Quixote on a trip through Spanish La Mancha.

Non-fiction

This is certainly my favourite choice of reading material, again in total defiance of Theroux’s bon mots. Reading The Great Game by Peter Hopkirk really put into context the historical sights I was visiting in Uzbekistan, while I have already got myself a well-recommended travelogue for our upcoming trip to Japan. A well written book can serve a similar function to a knowledgeable local guide, with interesting stories and quirky facts that help the reader to better understand why things are the way they are in a particular place.

I might find it hard to read twenty interpretative boards at a castle or a temple and leave with anything more than a morsel of memorable information about how life was life in the 9th century. An audio-guide can provide a little more detail that I might recall weeks or months later. But give me a novel or a historical reference book that paints a complex, multi-layered picture of a particular place and the people who lived there and years later my memory of whatever it was that I was visiting is that much stronger.

What are we missing?

The question then returns to the real meaning behind Theroux’s advice. I have no doubt that he would agree that a good book can serve the purpose of adding colour to a destination as described above. Perhaps however he would question whether using another person’s experiences, emotions and interpretations helps us gain the most from our travel experience, or whether in fact it is up to us to paint our own pictures and live our own experiences in any place without an author's influence, whether real or fictional.

A Guide to the Sacred Valley, Peru

Wed, 20 Jul 2011 14:44:00 +0100

Peru's Sacred Valley is a must see destination on nearly every itinerary to Cusco and if it isn't, it should be. Formed by the Urubamba River snaking its way through the stunning Andean mountains, the valley has been a vital resource for the region, dating back to Incan times, with the fertile soil excellent for cultivation. The biggest draw for the Sacred Valley is now tourism although the tapestry of patchwork fields is evidence to the agricultural farming that still continues today.

The majority of people visiting the Sacred Valley are there with the intention of soaking up some Incan Culture and they won't be disappointed. Due to the fertile nature of the soil in the area and also the proximity to Cusco, this area is rich with Incan history, with some excellent preserved ruins and agricultural terracing to visit. The towns within the area are also well worth a visit, with colourful markets and plenty of restaurants. Most Sacred Valley tours start and end in Cusco, with the total day taking around 10 hours. Lunch is nearly always included. A day tour makes for a great activity when acclimatising as exertion levels are not high. The total distance covered is about 170km and the itinerary will take in the following highlights:

The Pisac Ruins are a classic example of the terracing that the Incas are so famous for. Growing their crops in well-irrigated terraces, they perfected the art of cultivating crops in micro-climates, essentially creating the first propagators.

Whilst visiting the terraces at Pisa, most people stop off for a wander around Pisac Market, an enchanting and colourful market offering reams of hand-crafted items.

As well as being the starting off town for the Inca Trail, Ollaytantambo is home to a sacred temple, which was in the process of being built when the Spanish arrived. The ruins are incredibly well preserved and stand as a testament to the stamina and ingenuity of the Incas.

Chincheros is either the first or the last stop of the tour, depending on which way round your guide has taken you. This town is home to some original Incan walls which are worth a look. You will also visit a demonstration of local weaving techniques.

Whilst you can stay in one of the towns in the Sacred Valley, most people visit on a one day tour from Cusco. Trips can either be by bus, in a group of about 30 people, or a private tour with a driver & guide. Whilst the private option is much more expensive than the bus option, we believe that the benefits of having your own guide and being able to explore at your own pace far outweigh the cost savings.

Chincheros

Mon, 18 Jul 2011 17:32:00 +0100

Located between Cusco and the Sacred Valley, Chinceros is a pretty town high in the mountains. Standing high at an elevation of 3,700m, the town was an important strategic stop-off from traders travelling from the sacred valley to the Incan capital. Nowadays, the town is visited primarily by tourists on the day long Sacred Valley tour from Cusco. It is possible to see some excellent examples of how colonial architecture was built on top of Incan construction, with original walls of Incan brick-laying to be seen on many buildings.

Other than the architecture, the main draw to the town is its heritage as the weaving centre of the area. Textiles and handicrafts are woven, by hand, using traditional techniques by the women in the village. Spindles and looms are used to craft the al paca wool into beautiful and intricate designs.

If you are lucky enough to visit an handicraft centre, the ladies will demonstrate traditional weaving methods, as well as the dyeing process giving the ladies a whole rainbow of coloured yarns to work with.

Unlike many of the handicraft centres on tourist trails around the world, the workshops visited by the smaller tours take you to family run businesseswhere there is little pressure to buy. After the demonstration you are free to wander around the stalls, but there is little obligation, with the ladies preferring to chat amongst themselves rather than harangue travellers, giving the place a very laid back feel.

Ollantaytambo

Mon, 18 Jul 2011 16:44:00 +0100

Dating back to the start of the 15th Century, the impressive Ollantaytambo is home to the ruins of an unfinished Sun Temple. The building was interrupted suddenly by the Spanish conquest, meaning that the man-made terraces and massive foundations were left half-built. Whilst most of the buildings in the town were converted by the Spanish into churches and living accommodation, the remains of the temple and terracing have been well-preserved. With no written word inherited from the Inca Culture, it has been left to historians and archaeologists to work out the meaning of the place and to piece together the fragments of the buildings to devise a plausible history.

The site offers impressive views of the Sacred Valley and also gives good indication into Incan building techniques. They were not permitted to use wheels as the circular shape was felt to be too close to the image of the sun that they worshipped. Instead, rollers were used to move the enormous granite rocks from a mountain on the other side of the valley to the chosen site. The sheer scale of the build is awe-inspiring, not to mention when you discover that the terraces here were for decoration only, with no agricultural purpose.

The complex also give an interesting insight into Incan Culture, highlighting the importance of the sun and sunlight in their mythology. The triangles seen in nature from the mountains and valleys are replicated in the building design and the East facing temple is positioned to make the most of the winter solstice and to capture the earliest dawn light. On the mountain opposite the ruins are more terraces and, if you squint a little and look to the left of them, it is said that you can see the face of one of the gods looking at you.

Ollantaytambo lies at about 2,800m altitude so is comfortable. That said, to make the most of your visit here, you will need to climb up some of the terraces, so expect some light exertion.

Pisac Ruins

Mon, 18 Jul 2011 16:20:00 +0100

The Incan ruins at Pisac often get missed off the Sacred Valley itinerary, as tourists spend too much time shopping at the market. However, to miss out on these ruins would be to miss out on some of the best examples of Incan terracing around, and some amazing views to boot. At an elevation of 3,300m the ruins are reached by driving up a winding road and then walking a short distance. The views of both the ruins and the surrounding valleys are well worth the journey.

The remarkably well-preserved ruins are an excellent example of how the Incas used irrigated agricultural terraces for their farming. Cultivating seeds in the terraces, the Incans used them as we might use greenhouses, nurturing seedlings at different altitudes on the mountain-sides, seeing what could grow where. Looking around the valley and beyond, it is possible to see how the Incan farming techniques are still put to practice.

Above the terraces are further ruins, of farming cottages and also a sacred area where the higher classes were mummified and buried in preparation for the after life.

Holes in the side of the adjacent mountain reveal the location of the graves, although the tombs have been long since plundered.

Pisac Market

Mon, 18 Jul 2011 16:00:00 +0100

Pisac Market, a stop off on the Sacred Valley tour, is in a pretty town at just under 3,000m elevation. Contrary to what the guide books say, there is a market to visit every day of the week, although Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays remain the busiest. The market is made up of colourful rows of stalls selling products from ponchos to sweaters to bags and toys. Nearly everything in the market is made from Al Paca wool. Vendors are not too pushy, so you can browse with not too much pressure to buy. That said, you will find it hard not to resist the the smiles of the stall-holders and the beautiful bright colours of the handicrafts.

The market is aimed at the tourist trade, so can get busy when the bus loads come in. This is a charming place to visit and even if shopping doesn't interest you in the slightest, you will love the colours and the atmosphere of this pretty, engaging town. If you do fancy a spot of shopping, bring local currency with you from Cusco.

Tips for Great Safari Photography

Tue, 12 Jul 2011 13:35:00 +0100

This is a guest post by Terence Carter. Terence is one half of the globetrotting writing and photography team behind the wonderful GranTourismo project. Terence is an experienced travel photographer and his work can be seen at TerenceCarterPhotography.com.

After almost 20 years of travelling together, it wasn’t until last year, as part of our HomeAwayUK sponsored grand tour of the world – an experiment in slow and sustainable travel, experiential travel and local travel – that my travel writer-wife and I went on our first safari in Kenya. From our base in a holiday rental in Diani Beach on Kenya’s southern coast, we did two safaris, to the Masai Mara and to Tsavo West – fantastic! I’d photographed wildlife before, mainly for travel books we’d written in Australia, Asia, and, to a lesser extent, the Middle East, but no matter how long you’ve worked as a photographer, there’s nothing that prepares you for shooting the Big Five in Africa.

There are two approaches to take when making photographs on an African safari. Go all out to nab perfectly framed photographs of the Big Five at dawn or dusk or just make some photographs that give you some memories of what is for many a once-in-a-lifetime experience. This is a guide to going all out.

#1 Going all out means having two DSLR cameras and good lenses (not cheap zooms) ranging from 14mm to at least 400mm. And, no, a lens that zooms from 14mm to 400mm is not going to make fantastic photos. A wide angle lens is great to capture the wonderful landscapes you’ll see, and, at the long end, because the (good) safari drivers try to keep a safe distance from the animals, you’ll need a telephoto lens. Anything less than 400mm and that lion will be the size of an ant in the frame. Unless your driver has an unexpected encounter. And that unexpected encounter is why you need a second camera with a wider lens on it.

#2 The cameras have to be great in low light (i.e. be capable of producing quality shots at 3200 ISO) because you’ll be shooting the bulk of your best photographs when you should be sleeping or cracking a beer. Why do you need to use such high ISO settings? It’s not just because of low light at dawn and dusk, when you’re using a long lens you need to shoot at a faster shutter speed because any camera shake is multiplied by having a long lens. And you don’t want a blurry rhino. A commonly recited rule is that your shutter speed should be at least twice that of your lens length – which means that if you’re shooting a 400mm lens your shutter speed should be at faster than 1/800th of a second.

#3 And speaking of speed, you’re going to need cameras that can shoot several frames a second (at least five) to capture that burst of animal action, as well as know how to keep focussed on the action. For this you need to be able to track focus, a mode where the camera constantly refocuses, often called ‘servo’ or continuous focus. If you don’t know the difference between single-servo focus and continuous focus (or know where to change it on your camera), do some reading before you hit the ground or better still, go practice by trying to photograph birds in flight and you’ll soon get the idea of why continuous focus is a good thing.

#4 Finances permitting, try to hire your own guide when you go on safari. A professional guide will be used to working with photographers – both amateur and professional – and will do his best to make the most of every opportunity. Both guides we used knew just where to position the vehicle for the best angle and had such great knowledge of the animals that I captured photos that photographers in other vehicles in the area didn’t get a chance to.

#5 None of this is helpful, however, if you’re bouncing around in a vehicle that is difficult to shoot from, such as a converted delivery van that some guides use. You need a 4WD with an ‘open’ passenger area so that you can easily move from one side of the vehicle to the other to take your photographs and have your gear at hand.

Finally, don’t forget to enjoy yourself. Unless you’re doing this for a living, don’t get too hooked up in the whole Big Five thing, the wildlife photographers stay there for months to get those classic photographs.

7 reasons to hate a place on your travels

Thu, 07 Jul 2011 08:15:00 +0100

Many folks who spend a fair chunk of their lives travelling will get asked one question more than any other: "What's your favourite place?" We remember the places we instantly fell in love with and which we recommend to all our friends. But what about those other less successful stops on our trips - the towns we couldn't wait to see the back of, where we wiped our feet on the way out and swore we'd never return?

There are many reasons why we might take a strong dislike to a particular place - the fact that we know in most if not all cases that our reasons for hating a place are totally irrational does not make the feelings any less strong or real for us. So what does cause us to get so turned off by a place that we wouldn't wish our worst enemy a stay there? Here are seven things that might make us choose anything ahead of a return visit:

1. Sickness

Nothing makes a place seem worse than staring at the inside of a bathroom door for most of your time there; the worse the state of the bathroom the more traumatic the experience. If you're feeling rough you can't get out and make the most of your temporary surroundings. If the sickness lasts for the entire length of your stay then the lasting impression of that whole place will not be a good one.

2. Being a victim of crime

Whether you have your bag stolen, your room broken into or worse, falling prey to criminals is likely to be the over-riding memory of the place where the incident happened. Even if crime is not rampant in that place that doesn't help you if you're one of the unlucky ones (I thought San Cristobal de las Casas was a very attractive city, but....) .

3. Being ripped off (legally)

There are many ways to lose money quickly and most of them are sadly quite legal. Hotels charging more than you expected, a taxi negotiation that gets nasty or a restaurant bill that includes certain extras that weren't mentioned at the start of the meal. Incidents like these get linked to our memories of a whole city (sorry, Bucharest).

4. Nightmare companions

You know the ones - they say hello as soon as you get on the bus and before you've even sat down you know you're in trouble. Perhaps you even choose to get off at a different stop just to avoid their self-obsessed monologue. But fate tends to have the last laugh, inevitably forcing you into another chance encounter with your hard-to-shake-off companion. An exit from wherever you are can't come quickly enough in these cases.

5. Weather

However lovely a place may be it is hard to appreciate it when looking through sheets of relentless downpours when you spend more time trying to keep at least your valuables dry than you do admiring your surroundings. This is nothing more than bad luck; it does rain pretty much everywhere after all. But think back to a place where you were trapped indoors (or soaked to the skin) and the memories will be somewhat dampened.

6. Closed for the season

Off-season can be a great time to visit some places. Less queuing, less noise and better service are some of the benefits of arriving in a place away from the crowds. This can work the other way however and when EVERYTHING in town is closed (including the restaurants), the place that was a must-see according to the guidebook suddenly becomes an empty dump.

7. Arguments

All travellers will have occasional disagreements with their companions, whether it be their spouse, friend or insignificant other. Whoever you are with those moments of anger will cloud your memory of the unfortunate place you happened to be in when domestic bliss was shattered. When you get home and the mention of that place instantly brings a flashback of a blazing row, there's not really much likelihood of a return visit.

What are your reasons for falling out of love with a place on your travels?

Best of Travel on the web - June 2011

Thu, 30 Jun 2011 09:20:00 +0100

Here we feature the top posts of June 2011 in three completely random categories:

Best Historical post
Best Ancient Wonders post
Best Off the Beaten Track post

There's also an award for Best Photo of the month. There are of course many contenders for these prestigious titles, which are selected in an entirely subjective and unaccountable manner. If you have a post that you would like us to consider for the July awards just send us the link to the post via Twitter (@Tourdust) or in the comments box below. So on to the winning posts:

Best Historical Post - Japanese British history in Penang by The Longest Way Home

For most Brits our knowledge of the details of the brutality of the war fought with the Japanese across eastern Asia in the 1940s is vague at best. It was fascinating therefore to read this moving account from Dave at The Longest Way Home of his visit to an old British fort in Penang. Still bearing the scars of its bitter legacy, most local people do not choose to venture near to the place. Indeed even tourists only visit the area for paint-balling rather than learning a little about the bloody history that SE Asia had to endure.

Best Ancient Wonders post - Ancient Ruins Overload and How Petra Saved Me by LandLopers

The Jordanian Tourist Board has been very busy in recent weeks inviting the great and good of the travel blogging world to sample the highlights their country has to offer. What has followed are a series of posts that describe the history, the cuisine, the culture and of course the sights of Jordan. One of my favourite posts is this one by Matt Long of LandLopers, in which he describes his feelings of indifference to some of the initial historical sites and how these were blown away once he arrived at Petra. Looking at his excellent photos it's easy to see why.

Best 'Off the beaten track' post - A Very Young Country by Travels with a Nine Year Old

In these days of ubiquitous travel blogs it's rare to find an article about a place that others have written little about. So it was refreshing to come across this informative post from the Travels with a Nine Year Old blog about a recent visit to East Timor. An independent state for a little over a decade, this tiny nation is still very much off-the-beaten-track. This post provides a brief history lesson on the conflict that has blighted this fledgling nation and also an insight into what visitors there might expect to find.

Best Photo - Sky Aflame in Moray by Keith aka Traveling Savage

Always having had a soft spot for a good sunset I was instantly drawn to this photo. Keith's lyrical description of witnessing this spectacle only adds to the wonder of this northern scene.

An Introduction to Kenya by Rough Guide author Richard Trillo

Thu, 23 Jun 2011 15:00:00 +0100

To introduce our collection of Kenya holidays, safaris and treks we have asked Rough Guide to Kenya author Richard Trillo to give his expert tips on what to do and where to go in this wonderful country. Over to Richard!

On the coast – your entry point if you fly to Kenya by charter flight – it’s the smell that grabs you first, announcing you’ve arrived in the tropics. The rich, warm scent carries notes of pungent mud, charcoal braziers, cow dung, diesel fumes, red dust and spices. When you emerge from Mombasa airport at night, this aromatic air is like a soft, dark blanket, blown on a monsoon breeze, carrying a chirping cricket chorus. It’s an aroma you never forget, perfectly in keeping with the coast’s sultry, historically charged atmosphere.

Up in the highlands, Nairobi airport at dawn paints a much more prosaic picture for visitors arriving on scheduled airlines, but the smell of dung and charcoal is here too, especially after rain. And your other senses are soon being stimulated: you’ve barely picked up your bags and done a double-take at the life-size sculptures of scrap-metal elephants outside the arrivals hall, than you’re glimpsing real big game in Nairobi National Park. Specked with zebras and giraffes, the wild savanna of the park, bordering part of the busy highway into the city, lies just a stone’s throw from thousands of commuters who walk, cycle and jam themselves into shared minibuses for the journey to work. Overhead, huge marabou storks circle on the day’s early thermals, looking for trash to scavenge.

The southern side of the park isn’t fenced, and thus dangerous wildlife and highway billboards advertising mobile phones vie for the attention of Nairobians. When a rogue buffalo was shot by park rangers recently, the story was up on YouTube, captured by onlookers, almost before the same crowd had registered their disappointment that a free beef handout wasn’t on offer.

Striking contradictions like these, setting visceral nature and the struggle for survival against metropolitan life are a Kenyan hallmark and soon become part of your everyday experience while travelling here. For example, in the Rift Valley, an unlikely wooden “internet café”, powered by a solar panel, is guarded by a man wearing an Arsenal T-shirt and carrying a hefty bow and a pouch of arrows; between Nairobi and Mombasa, the highway is skimmed by speeding buses, with air-con and video, traversing old grazing lands where traditionally dressed herders drive their cattle to pasture; on the Mount Kenya ring road you pull up behind a line of stopped cars to find three bull elephants crossing ahead; and on the coast, a small propeller plane sweeps you from a modern city to a medieval one over remote creeks and tracts of coastal jungle inhabited by hippos, crocodiles and monkeys.

So what are Kenya’s parts? How do you make sense of such a diverse, complex, expressive country, one that is two and a half times the size of Britain?

Seen from the Nairobi perspective, Kenya faces in four directions: east to the Indian Ocean and the monsoon trade winds; north through the highlands to rocky desert plains on the borders of Somalia and Ethiopia; west across the Rift Valley to the cultivated basin around Lake Victoria; and south to the vast, wildlife-rich savannas that continue into Tanzania and rise towards Kilimanjaro.

It’s a landscape of exceptional beauty, full of people of extraordinary physical and mental resilience – and good humour.

Part one: the cities

The first part of Kenya you’ll experience is the urban, where the rich-poor divide is starkest and you can expect a sense of culture shock and dislocation. Kenya’s four cities, like a string of ever-expanding beads, are Mombasa on the coast, Nairobi in the highlands, Nakuru in the Rift Valley and Kisumu on the shores of Lake Victoria. Shopping malls, supermarkets, offices and hotels attract hopeful migrants from the rural areas, and these newcomers create sprawls of shanty towns and slum-like suburbs. There’s much about it all that will seem familiar – and you can certainly hide away in comfort if you spend a bit of money – but the sting is in the immediacy of people’s circumstances out on the streets, where the relentless poverty can be hard to take in. This string of cities is also the busiest road and rail route through the country – though don’t expect motorways or high-speed trains: the railway line is the same metre-gauge railroad built by the Victorians, and the highway mostly consists of two, un-separated lanes.

Part two: the highlands

Next, the highlands, and Kenya’s western and central highlands rise high enough to escape the climate you would normally associate with a country sitting astride the equator. Mount Kenya itself soars from plains on one side and farmlands on the other to a height of nearly 5200 metres. When this extinct volcano was first formed it was a couple of thousand metres higher: today’s spectacular, craggy outline is the result of water and ice erosion over the past 3.5 million years. The neighbouring Aberdare range (a national park, like Mount Kenya, protecting large numbers of elephants, buffalos and other species) rises through dense forest to almost Scottish moorlands where giant, Afro-Alpine plants grow in the cool air like Sci-Fi experiments.

Flowing north from these highlands is the Ewaso Nyiro river – one of Kenya’s biggest – looping in a great arc through the Samburu-Shaba-Buffalo Springs national reserves, where elephants reign supreme and you’ll see masses of other wildlife, from leopards and ostriches to handsome oryx and lions. The river also waters the dry country of Laikipia, a region of old ranches rapidly making the transition to community-facing wildlife conservation and adventure tourism.

Below the eastern, rainy slopes of Mount Kenya, isolated on the north side of the Tana river, lies one of Kenya’s most beautiful and under visited parks, Meru National Park, where the Adamsons of “Born Free” fame worked with lions and cheetahs.

The highlands further west include the Mau escarpment, the Loita and Cherangani Hills and another old volcano, Mount Elgon, straddling the Ugandan border. With smaller national parks of rainforest – Saiwa Swamp, Kakamega Forest – these are all highly recommended objectives for keen hikers and naturalists.

Throughout the highlands, the lower slopes are intensively cultivated – these are Kenya’s farmlands. Around Mount Kenya and the Aberdare range much of this agriculture is the small-scale terracing of subsistence farmers, with patches of coffee and fruit grown for cash. The north side of Mount Kenya, however, has extensive wheat fields, and the southwest highlands are tea country – hundreds of square kilometres of trimmed, waxy-green tea bushes draped across the landscape. And everywhere you go, that supermarket favourite, the plastic greenhouse, is on the march, blocking the view with humid rearing sheds for string beans and cut flowers.

Sloping to the west, the highlands dip down to the Kenyan shores of Lake Victoria and a normally lush, rolling scene of farms, grasslands and sugar cane fields. Visit the area for intriguing islands of fossils and bird life, local cultural and historical sites and something called the “Obama trail” – Barack’s father grew up here, although apart from the odd sign, there’s nothing to indicate the fact.

Part three: the valley

Cutting through the middle of the highlands, the Kenyan portion of the Great Rift Valley (which stretches from Jordan to Mozambique) is a giant gash in the earth’s surface, dotted with jewel-like lakes and geothermal activity. Hot and dry, this is where you’ll see one of Kenya’s archetypal images, countless thousands of pink flamingos flocking in the algae-rich alkaline shallows of Lake Nakuru and Lake Bogoria. Lake Nakuru, securely fenced and bursting with wildlife, is also a fine place to see rhinos and leopards.

The two freshwater lakes, Naivasha and Baringo, are characterised by pods of snorting hippos, acacia woodland and amazingly rich birdlife. Both make wonderful places to camp – or relax in a bit more luxury – for a few days. In the far north, touching the Ethiopian border, lies the jade sickle of Lake Turkana, the largest desert lake in the world, with its often wildly attired Turkana, Samburu and Elmolo inhabitants and its enormous population of Nile Crocodiles.

Part four: the savannas

The part of Kenya that receives the most visitors is the southern savanna region. It’s a huge area, dominated culturally by Maasai herders and in natural terms by vast herds of migratory wildlife. In the southwest, the Mara river flows beneath the landmark Oloololo Escarpment through Kenya’s number one tourist attraction, the Maasai Mara National Reserve, location of one of the most vigorous and dramatic eco-systems in the world, where an annual migratory herd of more than a million wildebeest takes possession of the grasslands from July to October, surging west and south again and crossing the crocodile infested Mara river in a phenomenon of unforgettable, electrifying intensity. Although you can’t walk inside the reserve, the conservancies around it (there’s no fence) are community-run and game walks, cycling and horse-riding are all possible.

Southeast along the Tanzanian border, enclosing a clutch of lush swamps, lies the major elephant sanctuary of Amboseli National Park, beneath the snow-capped massif of Kilimanjaro. Further southeast, in the huge expanse of dry bush country shelving down to the coast, lies the duo of Tsavo West and Tsavo East national parks, together amounting to an area the size of Wales and including thousands of miles of tracks you can explore to your heart’s content. Don’t miss the wide, shallow Galana River in Tsavo East and the stunning oasis of Mzima Springs in Tsavo West.

Part five: the coast

The last part in the story of Kenya’s landscapes is the coast. In many ways a separate country, separated from the interior by a hundred-kilometre band of thorny desert, the coast was, until the early twentieth century, part of the Sultanate of Zanzibar, and was only married off to the Kenya Colony forty years before the country reclaimed its independence (some coastal people would say they exchanged the domination of Zanzibar for that of Nairobi). For such an effortlessly laid-back part of the world, the coast.

is surprisingly politicised, with a deep-seated Swahili culture that has been amalgamating interior languages and cultural norms with the laws and language of Islamic and Arabic culture for more than a thousand years. Seasonal trade winds – the northeast and southeast monsoons – play along a coast of beaches and creeks, protected by a coral reef.

The diving and snorkelling are excellent, the constant breeze encourage kite- and wind-surfing, and much of the coast lives up to tropical beach paradise expectations. True, there are some stretches of fairly intense hotel development near Mombasa, and at Malindi, but much of the coast is still relatively unspoiled – notably the Lamu archipelago, in the north, where the main island of Lamu still has no vehicles and some of the lesser islands are almost completely self-sufficient.

Safaris

So how does travel work in Kenya? What is a safari and how do you avoid being eaten by lions or squashed by an enraged elephant?

Think of the country, in one sense, like any other: you can travel without restriction all over Kenya, with the exception of parts of the northeast where travel is limited by Somalia’s insecurity and local banditry. Public transport or car hire will do the trick (and you can choose to have a driver/guide rather than doing the driving yourself, but either way you should hire a 4x4). In towns, you can stay overnight in hotels (there are very few campsites outside the parks), which don’t normally need to be booked ahead. If you’re driving a private vehicle, the parks are open to you, though you’ll need to book lodge or tented camp accommodation in advance (a tented camp is a permanent encampment of large tents, usually with floors, furniture, plumbed-in bathrooms and a separate roof for when the heavens open. Don’t forget park fees, which are payable per 24 hours, and usually range from $40 to $75 per day.

Rather than travelling independently, many visitors go on an organised safari – which just means journey in Swahili, so a safari is simply a tour. Most safaris concentrate on the national parks and will include “game drives” for several hours twice a day – after dawn and before dusk – when you leave your lodge or tented camp and set off in search of wildlife. In most of the parks, you can’t leave your vehicle – except of course in the camps, where spear-carrying watchmen look out for inquisitive wildlife – but some parks allow game walks, which gives you the chance to really absorb the natural environment in the company of trained rangers or local Maasai guides.

Kenya’s busiest tourist seasons are July and August and Christmas and New Year, when many lodges and camps are sold out and prices are highest. The best deals are to be had from April to June, during the so-called “long rains” (often a bit of a misnomer), when it sometimes feels as if you have half the country to yourself.

And the question of wildlife danger? The facts are: the wildlife is wild; most parks, and many lodges and camps, are unfenced; and wild animals and people don’t mix well, as a glance at virtually any daily paper will show, with marauding elephants, unseen crocodiles, surfacing hippos and goat-nabbing lions all regularly featured. You need to take care, as accidents do happen, but that’s what Kenya is all about. Guides and other staff will invariably protect you with great skill and devotion, but you can’t make a safari one hundred percent safe. And that’s why travelling here retains its emotional allure: the word exciting might apply to a theme park ride, but it doesn’t come close to describing the experience of travel in Kenya.

Wildlife viewing: safari or zoo?

Thu, 23 Jun 2011 08:44:00 +0100

Seeing the African Big 5 (lion, elephant, rhino, buffalo and leopard) in around an hour takes some doing. We were fortunate to see these creatures and many more besides while on a number of game drives from our lodge in South Africa. We've also seen them at zoos and wild animal parks of varying standards across the world. So if you want to get up close and personal with wildlife, what is the best way to do it - and is there is a right or wrong way?

Good Zoo, Bad Zoo

Of course there are different types of zoo. In the old days, before we became 'enlightened' in our care for animals, the exhibits of a zoo were managed and acquired in much the same way as paintings or statues in a gallery. Little regard was given for animal welfare and conservation, with most animals having to live in cramped spaces and having little to stimulate them from one mundane day to the next. I visited a zoo in China in the 1990s and more recently Dubai Zoo (an absolute disgrace) and imagined that these were probably reflective of how most zoos around the world would have been forty or fifty years ago.

Illustrious modern zoos (or wild animal parks as they often prefer to be branded) include the famous Singapore Night Safari and the San Diego Wild Animal Park, both of which I have enjoyed visiting. Animals here have far more space and their enclosures are not solely designed as pits with unobstructed public viewpoints. These places manage breeding programmes and place a strong emphasis on promoting awareness of conservation issues, positioning their operations as more educational than entertainment.

The Safari Experience

A real safari on the other hand is about seeing the animals in an entirely natural habitat. Well, almost. An experienced ranger will know where specific animals are likely to be at a certain time and will often leave 'treats' out so that beast and tourist can cross paths conveniently. As far as is possible the young are conditioned to be comfortable with a jeep being alongside them while they nap, eat or play.

A big part of the safari experience is the opportunity for photography. Most safari-goers will pack a good camera with a big lens, hoping to capture that ultimate close-up photo of a lion eating a zebra with an elephant in the background (or something like it). But safaris are unpredictable and it's quite possible to come away from a game drive having seen little or nothing. It's harder still if you chosen prey is the tiger; visitors to Indian game parks can spend a week on the hunt for even the briefest glimpses of one of these elusive cats.

Animal Magic

So is it all about getting the best photo? If so then perhaps a modern zoo may provide the guarantee of animal sightings, and usually in a habitat that vaguely resembles the animal's natural environment. Where a safari wins out for me is that very element of uncertainty, of being in the hands of fate as to whether you catch a sighting of whatever crosses your path that day or whether you come back having seen nothing.

And there's also something humbling about being enclosed on a vehicle while the animals stroll around and observe you with curiosity; as if they are visiting a zoo where you are the exhibit. As a naturally curious person I enjoy observing animals in any environment; but I don't think that the excitement of seeing something unexpected run across your path can ever be recreated, even in a modern zoo.

A Boat Trip through the Jungle

Tue, 21 Jun 2011 11:24:00 +0100

The Tambopata river, snaking it's way through the jungle is all you could hope from a rainforest waterway; brown, murky and mysterious. With a two and a half hour boat ride up to our jungle lodge, there was plenty of time to sit back, relax and watch the scenery. The week before I went there had been a sighting of a jaguar on the banks of the mighty river. We were not quite so lucky, but were still thrilled with what we did manage to see.

The white and black bird you can see is a King Vulture, a pretty rare spot in the Rainforest. The other birds are common vultures, they have been grazing on a decaying carcass.

We saw quite a few caimans as we motored upstream, basking in the sun.

This is a capivari, a common mammal in the rainforest that looks like an over-sized guinea pig.

And the murkier side to jungle life. Illegal loggers taking wood down river to sell at the markets.

A Wildlife Walk in the Peru Jungle

Tue, 21 Jun 2011 10:40:00 +0100

My recent trip to the Tambopata Reserve in the Peruvian Amazon Jungle was an eye opener to me. I have always shied away from trying to take photographs of wildlife and flora, being more of a snap happy photographer, trying to capture people in front of a sight, rather than focussing on non-posed photos. I think I definitely owe myself a photography course, but in the meantime I am really happy with the way these have turned out. These shots were all taken of flora and fauna of the rainforest during an early morning walk through the jungle.

This looks like a flower, but is actually a leaf that has evolved to change colour and take on the form of a flower. It is known as hot lips, although I am sure there is a more serious Latin name.

This mound is a burrow for a cicada nymph, built vertically so they can survive the rising water during the rainy season.

This tree is known as a 'walking tree.' Comptition is so fierce for trees to reach the leaf canopy, that this tree grows elongated roots that allow it to bend and grow in impractical angles to find a space above.

This beautiful insect is an owl butterfly, given the name, presumably, due to the owl-like eye pattern on its wing.

I would like to claim credit for this as a really wild spot, but actually this monkey was hanging out really near to where we staying, in the trees by our lodge.

And finally, for all the arachnid fans out there, a giant spider.

Croatia's Stunning Elaphiti Islands

Mon, 20 Jun 2011 14:41:00 +0100

The Elaphite islands, a cluster of islands north of Dubrovnik, Croatia, offer a delightful opportunity to sample the more leisurely pace of Croatian life, away from the crowds. Easily accessible by ferry, they make a great day trip or multi-night stay.

Kolocep, the closest of the three to Dubrovbik, is ideal if you enjoy hiking. The island has many well-marked walking and hiking trails direct from the port which take you to rocky bays and fantastic cliff-top views. The paths going inland take you past olive, fig, almond & cherry trees, which lend a welcome shade from the hot sun. Closer to the sea, pine tress dominate, with the sounds of chirping cicadas filling the air The island is great for families, with plenty of child-friendly cafes and a small playground by the port.

Lopud is ideal if you are travelling with a family, as the island is entirely car-free and has one of the only sandy beaches in the region. The harbour side of the island, where the ferry drops you off, is the 'busy' side, with cafes and restaurants dotting the sea front and overlooking the small beach. The better beach is on the other side of the island - about a 15 minute walk. The walk takes you away from the main village and up past crumbling houses and meadows filled with wild flowers. Children will love looking out for geckos basking in the sun as they go. If you want to get a fantastic view of the island, then you can head up to the ruins of an old fort at the top of the hill on the Lopud. It takes about 1/2 an hour, but the views are well worth it.

Sipan, the largest of the three islands, is sleepier than the others, with crumbling summer houses and laid-back fishing ports. There are two fishing villages on the island, Sipanska Luka or Sudurad and the two are connected by bus. Fewer tourists make it here, preferring to stop off at Lupod or Kolocep instead, making it a quieter option. Whilst there are no sandy beaches on the island, there are some lovely bays to stop for swimming, as well as some excellent coastal paths to explore. The rocky coastline is particularly to those who enjoy snorkelling and kayaking.

All three islands have their fair share of day-trippers, but once they have returned to Dubrovnik in the late afternoon, they become quieter and more relaxing for their local inhabitants and longer-stay guests. You can explore the islands on day trips from Dubrovnik by ferry, or if you fancy a more laid back way of travelling, you can spend a week kayaking between them. We recommend travelling to the Elaphiti Islands in May, June or September when there are fewer tourists around.

Great Kenya Travel Blog Round - Up

Mon, 20 Jun 2011 13:26:00 +0100

It is a sad fact there's little that hasn't already been said when it comes to travel. There are thousands of independent bloggers writing fascinating, unique and authoritative content. To coincide with the launch of our new collection of treks, safaris and holidays in Kenya, we have pulled together an overview of some of the best writing on Kenya, all from independent travel bloggers. So sit back, pour yourself a cup of tea and enjoy...

Richard Trillo (writing on the Rough Guide to Kenya Blogspot)

Richard is without doubt an authority on travel in Kenya having authored the Rough Guide to Kenya. If you are planning a trip to Kenya then this is a must read blog, with loads of tips on events and insightful analysis of topical tourist issues such as the reported crash in Masai Mara wildlife numbers

Lara Dunston (writing on Granturismo) on Down at Diani Beach

The Kenyan Coast can be a bit of a mixed bag. Whilst there are some stunning sensitively designed beach lodges around Lamu, the area around Mombasa and Diani Beach is notorious for over development and hassle from beach boys. Lara writes here with brutal honesty on her experience at Diani Beach.

Mark Wiens writing on Nomadic Matt on How to Safari in East Africa

Planning a safari for the first time can be a daunting task and the first time you see the prices can be a bit of an eye opener. Mark provides some great tips on doing it independently.

Keith Jenkins writing on Velvet Escape on The splendor of Lake Nakuru

Lake Nakuru is one of my favourite parks in Kenya, easy to get to and easily digested. it has a wealth of wildlife in a stunning setting. Keith captures the splendor of the park with some great images.

Mark Wiener writing for Migrationology on 101 things to do in Nairobi

Chances are you are going to be spending a day or two in Nairobi if you are coming to Kenya. If so then you would be hard pressed to beat this exhaustive collection of things to do in Nairobi. Mark's site, Migrationology is a wealth of information on Kenya, if you enjoy this also try his excellent piece on Kenyan food

Sherry writing for Ottsworld on Safari in Samburu

Proving that good writing doesn't age this post from 1996 about an encounter with an angry elephant in Samburu is still fresh today. Samburu and nearby Meru parks are about as close to Lion King country as you are going to get.

Meggan writing for the World Effect on Moving through Masai Mara

The Masai Mara is undoubtedly the highlight of any trip to Kenya, especially if you are lucky enough to get there during the migration. Meggan and Beau recorded their travels on the World Effect and a combination of stunning photography and fresh writing make this one of our favourite travel blogs. This is a fantastic series of pictures.

View our Collection of Kenya treks, safaris and community tours...

Acclimatisation in Cusco

Mon, 20 Jun 2011 12:15:00 +0100

Altitude acclimatisation needs to be taken seriously, especially if you are flying into altitude (that's above 2,400m or above) from a location at sea level. Your body needs time to adjust to the lower levels of oxygen in the air and needs to produce more red blood cells. This is particularly a problem in Peru as many travellers fly directly into Cusco from Lima, which is a jump of 1,800m.

Not everyone is affected by altitude, although most people will feel some differences for the first day or so. There is no knowing before you travel how you may be affected as it has no correlation with fitness. That said, if you have suffered before, you can expect to be more prone than others. Symptoms of mild altitude sickness include some or all of the following: headaches, nausea, shortness of breath, lack of appetite, dizziness and fatigue. It is important to remember that these affects are simply due to your body adjusting and whilst you may be feeling unwell, you are not actually ill. The best cure is to lie low on your first day of arrival, avoid alcohol and to drink lots of water (and, or) coca tea, a local homeopathic remedy. If you rest and resist the urge to go out walking, then within 24 hours you should start to feel much better. On your second day at altitude, you should start to feel your body adjusting to the altitude and should be able to attempt some gentle activity. By day 3, you will be in much better shape. We recommend at least 2 - 3 days acclimatising before you commence a trek. As well as the above, local remedies, there are also some over the counter prescription remedies to combat altitude sickness. Diamox can be prescribed and should be taken one day prior to arriving at altitude. However, this medication is not without its side effects (nausea and frequent need to urinate) which may end up more of a hindrance than the altitude sickness itself.

Acclimatisation and children

The altitude shouldn’t preclude you from visiting with children. We have sent families to Peru with children as young as 3, so there is no need to avoid it. In fact, we often find that children bounce back from altitude quicker than their parents! The same rules apply to children as to adults; rest, relax and keep your fluids up. We do recommend packing some familiar snacks from home for a bit of home comfort energy boost.

Acclimatisation & Trekking

If you are out trekking, you are bound to feel the symptoms of altitude sickness again when climbing above Cusco's altitude to one of the high passes. Your headaches and nausea may well return and you will find yourself out of breath regularly, needing to make plenty of rest stops. This happens to everyone, including guides and porters and is nothing to worry about. Once you descend, your symptoms will ease off. The important thing to remember is to listen to your body and take the hiking at a slow and comfortable pace, it is not a race to get to the finish. And remember, your guides are extremely experienced and know the difference from mild and severe altitude sickness. Do remember to make sure that your travel insurance covers you for trekking at altitude. Many policies include altitudes of up to 3,000m as a standard, but you may need to pay a premium above this height.

Peace of Mind

For our tailor-made customers to Peru, we include a free emergency assistance program which allows for up to two doctor’s visits to your hotel and medical assistance. This is not a substitute for your regular travel insurance, but does ensure that if you are struggling with the altitude, we can get you some medical advice.

Peru Tipping Guide

Fri, 17 Jun 2011 11:25:00 +0100

Tipping in the tourist industry in Peru is customary and expected. At the end of any tour, drive or meal, your guide or waiter will be most forthright in asking for their gratuity. Whether you like this direct approach or not, tips are relied upon to top up incomes and you need to budget for them. In hotels & larger towns, you can tip in either Soles or USD, but if it is the latter, please ensure that the bills are not crumpled. When tipping in rural locations, or on treks, Soles are more appropriate. Here is a guide to the amounts you can expect to pay.

Drivers

You don't normally tip for a regular taxi ride. Make sure that you agree a fare upfront, the driver will have factored a tip into the fare already! For private drivers, a tip of $5 - $7 per passenger, day would be about right.

Restaurants

If you are eating at a moderate / lower end restaurant, then it is fine to round up the bill; most Peruvians wouldn't tip in this type of establishment. In higher end eateries, a tip of 10% is a good amount.

Guides

Tips for tour or nature guides do depend on the level of service you have received. $10 per person would be the amount you would tip for excellent service.

Accommodation & Lodges

In budget - mid-range hotels, tipping is not expected. If you wanted to tip the cleaning staff, then leave about $1 per night. If someone has helped you with your bags, then a $1 is about right. At the jungle lodges, tipping boxes are provided and a rate of $3 per person per day is suggested; this will be shared out between all staff at the lodge.
Inca Trail & Trekking

Tipping makes up for an important part of the porters income and whilst we try to ensure that the guides and porters used on your trek receive a good, fair wage, they still appreciate (and expect) a tip. There will be a tipping ceremony on the penultimate evening of your trek. This is the point when you will have a chance to thank your porters, cooks and guides. It is worth ensuring that you have sufficient soles with you for your tipping, in small enough denominations. Guideline amounts are as follows:

Porters: 60 - 80 Soles per porter from the group

Cooks: 80 - 100 soles from the group

Guides: 160 - 200 soles from the group

Please bear in mind that, depending on your group size, there will be 1 or 2 guides, 1 or 2 cooks and 10 - 20 porters. Porters don't just carry your baggage, but also all of the camping equipment, food and dining equipment. At your pre-trek briefing, you can ask how many porters are trekking with you. If you have any other questions about tipping the trekking team, please ask your guide.

Travel photos - with or without you?

Wed, 15 Jun 2011 08:44:00 +0100

'Excuse me, do you mind taking our picture?' Almost every time we take a walk past a London landmark someone stops us with this request. They then line up their pose in front of the famous backdrop (Big Ben, London Eye, a red phone box, Tesco) and strike their pose. 'Take two please. Just in case!'

Why do we insist on capturing a picture of ourselves wherever we travel? 'To prove we were there' is the most common reply you're likely to hear. But who are we proving it to: ourselves? Surely we can remember where we've been (although Paul Theroux might disagree if he believes his own over-used quote about tourists not knowing where they've been); our friends? Surely they don't require proof of the authenticity of our travel adventures, if indeed they care in the first place. So why do we do it?

I'm sure that part of the photo-mania that takes place at any famous photo stop is fed by those around us. Stand at the Trocadero in Paris and watch hundreds of people adopting the most ridiculous of poses in front of the Eiffel Tower and it's almost guaranteed that you'll soon be copying the masses. Whether it's a deadly serious photo or a ironic take on others' poses the result is the same. Those around you will inevitably observe and copy.

Peer pressure is certainly part of it: Everyone else is posing in front of the Taj Mahal. You'll probably never come back and if you don't take one now you'll always regret not having a photo of yourself here. Then there's the feeling of association that the picture brings. Look at that people-free photo of Sydney Opera House ten years later and it looks no different to a postcard. Now pull out the one you asked that strange American couple to take for you. You can remember the favourite fleece you wore (the one you left on a bus in Auckland the following month); you remember how brown you look after overdosing on sunshine up in Queensland; even the partner with you in your photo may be no more!

A photo connects a person, a place and most importantly a time. It acts as a gateway to a set of memories that can be otherwise locked away in our long-term memory. When we look at that photo taken at the Statue of Liberty in 2000 it's up to us whether we notice first that awful pair of glasses we had at the time or whether we observe the Twin Towers still standing tall in the background. The memories that our photos provoke are deeply personal and the same picture can tell a thousand stories. Putting ourselves in the middle of that picture just adds another layer of context to that captured moment.

So perhaps we should include ourselves in our travel snaps. As for the silly poses, I'm not so sure about those...

Best of Travel on the web - May 2011

Wed, 01 Jun 2011 08:22:00 +0100

There are so many excellent articles and blog posts each month that it's impossible to keep track of all. In an attempt to capture the best of the travel web in one single place we will be looking for the best posts each month and recognising them in a special round-up post. Here we feature the top posts of May 2011 in three categories:

Best Adventure Travel Post
Best Extreme Adventure
Best Travel Misadventure Story

There's also an award for Best Photo of the month.

There are of course many contenders for these prestigious titles, which are selected in an entirely subjective and unaccountable manner. If you have a post that you would like us to consider for the June awards just send us the link to the post via Twitter (@Tourdust) or in the comments box below. So on to the winning posts:

Best Adventure Travel Post

Central Asia Travel: A Beginner's Guide by Uncornered Market

Despite offering some of the world's most dramatic landscapes and most intriguing historical sites Central Asia remains off the radar for many travellers. This post by Daniel Noll from Uncornered Market provides an excellent overview of the region, highlighting the different aspects of culture and the natural and man-made attractions that reward those who make the journey to this region. Daniel's pictures are pretty stunning too.

Best Extreme Adventure Post

Skydiving: My First 60 Second Freefall by Abigail King

I have never jumped out of a plane and don't suppose I ever will. I'm grateful therefore for someone who can tell the story of their skydiving adventure so well that I can almost feel I was there, hurtling through the air and armed I'm sure with a look of terror. Step forward Abigail King who, on a recent blog trip to Costa Brava, had her first such experience.

Her description paints a vivid picture of those moments before and after falling from the plane; so good that I feel as though I've done it myself. And if that's not enough there's an excellent set of photos too.

Best Travel Misadventure Story

Being Shot at in Nicaragua by Brendan Van Son

Of course not every trip goes to plan and for those of us who survive the odd near miss on our travels these incidents often become the stories on which we dine out for many years to come. This exciting tale by Brendan Van Son tells of his narrow escape when he had to dodge bullets to reach the bus station in Managua for an early morning departure.

Best Photo

Night Market in Luang Prabang by Barbara Weibel

Barbara seems to have been travelling forever through SE Asia, and this photo really caught my eye. I love the bright colours and sharp contrasts; even with the blurring effect the picture captures the lively but very relaxed atmosphere of the Luang Prabang night market.

Dubrovnik Old Town

Fri, 27 May 2011 13:30:00 +0100

Accessible in about 2 1/2 hours by plane from the UK and serviced by direct flights with the likes of Easyjet, BA & Wizzair, getting to Dubrovnik, in Croatia couldn't be easier. Whether you are going for a city break, or passing through on the way to visit elsewhere in the country, this guide of things to do in Dubrovnik has been put together to help you make the most of your time there.

Main Sights; A guide to Dubrovnik

The City Walls

A walk around the ancient city walls is an absolute must do when you visit Dubrovnik. Stretching 2 - 3km, the ramparts are all in excellent condition and give fantastic views across the terracotta rooftops and out to the sea beyond. Depending on how fast you walk, it will take you 1 - 2 hours to walk around the full perimeter. Our advice, take your time and savour the experience. There are plenty of places to stop along the way to buy water or ice cream. Beware, though, your ticket does not allow multiple entries to the walls.

The Rectors Palace

The Dubrovnik municipality used to be run from the Rector's Palace, with a new Governor installed every month. Now, the Palace hosts a collection of historical objects. Visitors can see the old courtroom, prison cells and (faded) state rooms. On the ground floor there is an interesting photography exhibition that makes the visit worthwhile. A collection of photos from the 1991 city siege gives a real flavour of what the city went through during the bombardment.

Dominican Monastery

Dating back to the 15th Century, it is worth visiting the Dominican Monastery for the cloisters, which offer a cool respite from the heat of the day. Gothic arches surround a peaceful courtyard filled with orange trees and palms, with a well in the centre. It's worth taking a seat in the courtyard - there aren't many places in Dubrovnik where you can sit back and watch the world go by which aren't selling food and drink. Even if the building itself leaves you cold, you will be sure to amuse yourself with the large groups of cruise ship tourists who descend every 15 minutes in their droves like a swarm of locusts, take a few snaps and then depart as quickly as they came.

Franciscan Monastery

Dating from the early 1300's this monastery also has beautiful Romanesque cloisters which are worth a visit. Although hit them at the peak time and they are rammed full of tourists. Try visiting early / late for a more peaceful visit.

Eating & Drinking

There are many eateries around and you won't be short of an opportunity to find something to eat. For the most part, restaurants are dominated by the pizza category, but there are also some places selling fresh fish, there is even a brand new sushi & oyster bar in town. Probably the best pizza joint is Mea Culpa, popular with locals and tourists alike. Situated on one of the streets parallel to the Stradrun, it is a great place for people watching. The pizzas are generous.

If you are after a romantic setting, you can't do better than the Buza Bar. Notoriously difficult to find, this bar is popular with locals as well as tourists. It is perched on the side of a cliff and leads down to its own rocky bay where you can swim from. Accessed through the city walls, there is no running water, so drinks are of the bottled variety, but you don't come here for the gourmet, you come for the views and proximity to the sea.

And on the down side......

Cruise Ships & Tourists

The large cruise ships bring tourists in their droves to Durbovnik. This is a good thing for Croatia's economy, so it shouldn't be lamented too much, but there is no denying that the hoards of large groups can detract from the charm of the historic old town. They come to land and do a whilrwindtour of the sites and leave again the late afternoon. Your best bet of avoiding the congestion is to visit the most popular sights early morning or later in the afternoon and to explore the quieter parts of the town, or enjoy a long, lingering lunch, during the 'rush hour'.

Cost

Like any touristy European city, prices here are not cheap. That said, portion sizes are generous and when you're sitting al fresco in a medievel town, you don't mind so much! Expect to pay around £10 for breakfast, £12 - £15 for a main meal with a soft drink. Beers will set you back around £2 for a small draught and a bottle of wine comes in around £8 - £10.

Elsewhere in the area....

There is some fantastic hiking to be done in the foothills and mountains in the Konavle Region south of the city. If peaks are your thing, you can climb Mount Srdj, which is 412m high. To reach the summit, you follow a winding pathway (the Serpentina) to the top for some fantastic panoramic views.

The Elaphite islands, a cluster of islands north of Dubrovnik, offer a delightful opportunity to sample the more leisurely pace of life, away from the crowds. Easily accessible by ferry, they make a great day trip or multi-night stay.

A relatively new activity to the area, sea kayaking is a fantastic way to explore the coastline and get away from the mainstream tourist trails. There are only a few operators offering tours by kayak and only one of them is locally owned and operated. Tours range from a few hours, where you kayak directly from Dubrovnik to get a feel for the city and coastline from the sea, to multi-day tours based out in the Elaphite Islands.

6 of the world's classic hikes

Thu, 19 May 2011 09:12:00 +0100

The arguments over where in the world you can find the best hiking trails are never ending. Whatever arguments they create I do enjoy reading the suggestions as they often provide inspiration for future travels. This list does pretend to be anything other than a selection of famous hikes that form part of many of such articles; but it does I hope highlight the fantastic variety on offer across the six continents for the eager hiker. Feel free to suggest your favourite trails if I've overlooked them here.

North America - Grand Canyon

While the Grand Canyon is one of the world's most visited natural wonders, it is an astounding fact that over 98% of visitors fail to set a foot below the Canyon rim. While there are many conclusions that can be made from this, it is great news for those who do venture into the canyon as the stunning landscapes that unfold as you descend can be enjoyed in almost total solitude. The geology you'll see, the species of plants you'll encounter and the animals that scamper across your path all change as you drop nearer to the Colorado river. Be prepared for extreme temperature changes - we started one early morning trek in a couple of inches of snow and within four hours were baking in 90 degree heat.

South America - Inca Trail

Yes, I know it's very busy and I could have picked the W trail (or many others) in Patagonia. But for an easily accessible trek for the moderately fit with spectacular climax the Inca Trail is hard to beat. While climbing to the highest point at Dead Woman's Pass can be challenging (particularly if the clouds drop as they did for us), that classic first Machu Picchu view when you reach the Sun Gate makes all the effort worthwhile.

Africa - Mount Kenya

The second highest mountain in Africa and a less worn trail than Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya offers many treasures along its varied slopes. An ancient volcano boasting a glacial peak, the climb passes through rainforest and bamboo before ascending to more Alpine landscapes as the temperatures fall away. Reaching the summit of Mount Kenya will require a pre-dawn start in sub-zero temperatures, but these are soon forgotten by the glorious sunrise that greets you as you reach the top.

Oceania - Routeburn Track

It was a toss-up between this and the Milford Track, so I chose the one I've completed (writer's prerogative). Three days of relatively easy hiking amongst some of the most stunning Alpine scenery. We were there in mid-summer and the snowline had retreated to the tops of the surrounding mountains. There are comfortable lodges along the way that even allow you to shower - a rare luxury for many multi-day hikes.

Asia - 100 Waterfall Hike, Laos

Ok, I threw in a personal favourite here for the world's largest continent that is not short on classic treks. Asia is probably home to some of the best hiking terrain on Earth. In any case, the 100 Waterfall Hike: a day hike from Nong Khiaw, around 3 hours north of the tourist mecca that is Luang Prabang. The hike takes you through the jungle and up around 2km of continuous waterfall - the blissfully cool water provides a welcome relief to the midday sun and the views along the way are sensational.

Europe - The Eagle Trek in Austria

This is a 280km walk through the heart of the Austrian Alps. Well maintained and neatly divided into 23 sections it can be tackled as an end to end hike (around three weeks) or as a series of day hikes. As the name suggests there are even eagles to be seen along the way if you're lucky, although the name of the trail comes from the shape of the route on a map rather than the fauna that is on offer along the way. If you don't catch one of the region's eagles on your way there's a good chance of seeing marmots, capricorns and mountain goats. Regular Alpine huts provide comfortable accommodation and meals during the day.

A small selection of excellent hikes but there are so many great alternatives on offer. What would you have added to this list?

Announcing the Great Kenya Blog Round-Up

Tue, 17 May 2011 13:36:00 +0100

Tourdust will shortly be launching a new collection of safaris, treks and holidays in Kenya and to celebrate all that is fantastic about this wonderful country we will be pulling together a round-up of the best independent blog content written about Kenya.

Simply follow @tourdust and tweet us a link to your post and we’ll include it in our round up with a link back to you.

Let’s keep it simple, only two rules apply; (1) submit non-commercial content only and (2) it should be based on your own experience in Kenya. To be included you need to do so before the 2nd June.

Oh and one more thing. It doesn’t need to be new or fit any strict format – writing, photo essays, video – all are welcome!

What’s that? Prizes I hear you say. What is wrong with you? Is the back-link and reverential praise not enough for you? Pah.

A Dong for your thoughts: worthless currencies of the world

Thu, 12 May 2011 08:09:00 +0100

A little over two years ago, Bill Gates was listed as the world's richest man with a fortune of $40 billion. If he was having trouble counting his zeros, spare a thought for the typical person in Zimbabwe in the same year if they nipped to the corner shop for bread and milk (which of course they wouldn't). They had to face the fact that even one of their new 100000000000000 notes would not be enough to buy a loaf of bread. It's a case where people were pushing around wheelbarrows full of bank notes and a thief would have his eye on the wheelbarrow itself and not its contents.

The fact is that not all currencies are born equal, and even those that are once strong can soon get watered down to worthlessness. I am still a proud owner of a few Yugoslav Dinar coins, picked up when I travelled through the country in 1987 on my way to Istanbul. When I returned to the region a few months later, the currency was worth 10% of its value on my earlier trip.

When currencies hit a downward spiral the instinctive remedy for governments is to issue a new set of bank notes, first adding and then removing a string of zeros from the original currency. In the last twenty years this has happened in Europe to Yugoslavia, Turkey and Romania. Needless to say the change in the number of noughts does nothing by itself to deal with whatever the issue it is that's causing the problem and just creates confusion for those who have to use these paper symbols of failure.

So what are the current basket cases in the world's currency markets? Here are five countries where you'll become an instant millionaire after an ATM visit.

5. Guinea - $1 buys 6675 Guinean Francs

4. Laos - $1 buys 8135 Lao Kip

3. Iran - $1 buys 10671 Iranian Rial

2. Sao Tome and Principe - $1 gets you 17244 Dobra

And in number 1 place is the good old Vietnamese Dong - for $1 you can get 20876 Dong.

So what does it mean for those of use travelling through these countries? Well, above all else you need to become familiar with the money very quickly. It's very hard to count multiple zeros quickly in the back of a taxi or when getting change from a street vendor. The best advice is to learn the colour of the different notes as this will be the quickest way to distinguish a 100000 from a 1000000 note without making an expensive mistake.

And as for saving any leftover money for your next visit? If you're one of those who likes to keep a few notes or coins from each place you visit then consider your stash a collector's item. The chances are that when you return to that country again, the money literally won't be worth the paper it is printed on.

Should you hire a local guide?

Wed, 04 May 2011 11:10:00 +0100

We had hired this lady to show us around the Roman ruins of Jerash in northern Jordan. Sure enough, a couple of hours later we had heard much about the history of the site and how it might have looked in its heyday (if you haven't been, I highly recommend a visit). That was two years ago and I still remember the charismatic lady who showed us around. But I have forgotten pretty much everything she told us about the Romans in Jerash. Instead it is the insights into her own life, living, working and bringing up a family in this dusty Jordanian city that I remember most; her family in America, her own struggles to get her children educated, her tales of Jordanian wedding culture.

For me, this episode illustrated perfectly the value of having a local guide. A few days later we were at Petra and the young lad who took us through the Siq and around the main sites was equally charismatic, although he was less inclined to venture off script. He had come down to Petra specifically to seek work as a guide. I suspect it's a more cut throat market down there as well. In any case, it was the more mature lady who shared with us the stories that for me embodies the real value of a guide: the chance to speak to someone who can tell you at first hand about life in a country.

As tourists passing through the country for only a few days this was one of the few opportunities we had to do this. An outsider can come in to an important historic site and soon gain the knowledge required to tell a visitor all about the relevant stories. But ask tourists what they remember from a tour with a guide and they'll often cite the personal reflections rather than the recital of facts.

For many of us it is an interaction with a local guide, even if only for an hour or so, that provides us with our only exposure to a local person. It is during our official tours that they can digress and begin to share a few personal stories that allow us to learn a little about local life.

Local tours also provide a clear benefit to the person you hire. Usually working as freelancers, most if not all of the money you pay goes directly to that guide, and in many cases this is their sole income. In places such as Jordan choosing to pay a few dollars to a guide at the entrance to a site can do so much more than merely reading the relevant pages of your Lonely Planet book as you wander around.

What's your view on using local guides at a site? Do you prefer the freedom of wandering around by yourself at your own pace? Or do you enjoy the interaction and local insights you can gain as a bonus to the official tour?

How much do you plan for a trip? How much is too much?

Wed, 27 Apr 2011 08:33:00 +0100

A few months ago we set off for a six week trip in central America. I booked a place for the first night as I didn't want to be scrambling around at night after stepping off an 11 hour flight. I also booked a room for Christmas as I wanted to make sure we spent it somewhere comfortable. Other than that however, the rest of the plan was left open. With a rough idea of what route we wanted to follow, other decisions were made as our mood (and the bus timetables) dictated.

|This month we set off for a couple of weeks in Europe, travelling overland from Portugal to London. This time almost everything was booked - I reserved all 14 nights, in 10 different hotels. We also had five rail tickets and a coach ticket already secured before we left, and most of these bookings were non-refundable. Why the different approach?

There isn't a good or bad way to plan a trip and how detailed you make your plans in advance depends on a number of factors that are very much specific to the trip and to the individuals concerned:

How flexible is your itinerary? In Central America we could go pretty much anywhere. Apart from a fixed Christmas hotel midway through our trip it didn't matter if we spent an extra night in one town or missed another place out entirely. We wanted the ability to change our plans at the last minute.

How expensive is transport? This is the big factor in western Europe. Travel costs can be very high, yet in France, Spain and to a lesser extent the UK, buying train tickets in advance can save 30-40% off the standard price. Flexibility allows you to walk up to the station and get on whatever is leaving next, but you'll pay a high price for the privilege. We opted to sacrifice flexibility for the cost savings we made on cheap rail tickets. In a relatively short trip there is a lot less flexibility in any case.

How fussy are you about where you stay? If you're happy enough to arrive at 9pm in a new city and roll into the first accommodation you find within your budget, then you are probably not going to waste time booking for beds in advance. If on the other hand you want to have a reasonable hotel room without breaking the budget, it probably pays to seek it out online. You do occasionally stumble into a great place for a bargain price but more often than not you'll find the fleapit that lives off those who don't want to carry their bags any further and will take anything just to know they've got somewhere.

How much time do you have? If you're short on time as we were in Europe, you don't want to waste it looking for a place for the night. Here, a strategy of securing a bed relatively close to the station is a good one - you can drop your bag and make the most of every hour of daylight to explore your temporary home.

How much you choose to plan is ultimately down to the individual and only they will know what suits their style, circumstances and character best. The good news is that even for the most meticulous planner out there, you'll often still be left to fly by the seat of your pants when your plans unravel as they inevitably do.

5 Signs that it's time to come home

Wed, 20 Apr 2011 13:58:00 +0100

Is there such a thing as too much travel? While some perennial nomads might argue that you can never have too much of a good thing, for the majority of people there comes a time when our thoughts of home become sweeter and more appealing by the day.

The exact point when that happens can depend on many factors.

What have we left behind?

If travelling alone then missing a loved one will naturally play on the emotions; if you have a nice home, close friends and family that you miss then these too will play their part in drawing your thoughts towards coming home.

What have we experienced?

A good trip can last forever. Except of course all trips have their highs and lows, and it is at these low points that we think fondly of going home (just as, in our low points at home our thoughts might turn to travel). Sickness, discomfort, loneliness, robbery, and unpleasant experiences all help a traveller to feel homesick quickly.

Why we are travelling?

The motivation that was behind the initial journey will often determine when that urge to return home kicks in. Those with a strong purpose behind their travels will often endure far more hardships for the sake of staying on their mission (whatever it is).

So how do we know enough is enough?

As with any condition the symptoms may vary, but the following are just a few signs that the traveller has become jaded and may be craving the comforts of home:

1. You arrive in a new city and find nothing you want to explore; the museums look boring, the buildings unoriginal and the food unappealing. In fact, your preferred option is staying in your lodgings and watching American comedy re-runs on TV.

2. You're getting increasingly frustrated at other people's inability to speak English.

3. You're getting snappy at street vendors and tuk-tuk drivers - don't they know you've said NO a thousand times??

4. You can't stand how people still try and rip you off by charging you $1 for your dinner when you know that the locals pay only $0.25. And you tell them.

5. You decide what to do next not based on what you want to do but on how little time you'll have to spend on yet another bus.

Others may show their travel weariness in different ways but I suspect we each of us look back we will recognise when it was that we had hit 'the wall'. At when that happens it's only natural to think of going home. Even the most ardent long-term nomads have written about their need to recharge their enthusiasm from time to time.

12 movies you DON'T want to see while travelling

Tue, 12 Apr 2011 09:59:00 +0100

We had squeezed into the final available seats on the chicken bus from Sonsonate to San Salvador. Having paid the higher fare ($1.10) to take the express bus, the journey to the capital was a little over an hour. "Thank goodness El Salvador is a small country" I thought, as my 6ft 2in frame contorted into a seat that was designed for an American schoolchild.

The discomfort was soon forgotten (partially at least) as the movie was fired up on the two clunky TV screens. It was a British movie I'd never heard of and for once we were blessed with subtitles rather than the almost universal dubbed confusion. The film was completely forgettable, although it did help pass the time a little more quickly. What did surprise me was that the film would certainly have received an 'R' or '18' rating, yet was shown on a bus packed with families, tucking into their lunches and enjoying the action. Full frontal nudity, love scenes both gay and straight and a whole string of profanities that gave us a valuable education in Spanish! Nobody seemed to mind and the crowd around us were glued to the screen as we trundled along the highway.

Of course we wouldn't get a film like that shown in public in the UK, but it did get me thinking about inappropriate movies for certain situations. Here's a selection of films I wouldn't like to see while travelling:

On a plane:

Snakes on a Plane

United 93

Flightplan

Lord of the Flies

On a bus:

Speed

Any X-rated British thrillers (see above)

On a train:

Transsiberian (obviously about a specific train journey)

Before going on a hike:

The Birds (my mind always flashes back to this film if I see any birds congregating menacingly as we walk by)

Anaconda (admittedly less of a problem if you are hiking in English woodland)

While visiting Yellowstone:

Supervolcano

Dante's Peak

While on a cruise:

Titanic (of course!)

What is the last film you would want to see on your travels?

Is travel a right or a privilege?

Wed, 06 Apr 2011 12:32:00 +0100

This may provoke strong reactions among some people but as it is so fundamental to what many of us spend our time doing I felt it a question worth debating. When we purchase our flight or our holiday, do we buy along with that the right to behave with complete abandon wherever we are? Or do we carry with us a responsibility to act in a certain way, abiding by an unwritten code of principles as we enjoy ourselves under someone else's sky?

I started thinking about this after a recent post on this site that asked if budget travel causes more harm than good. The post was discussed on a Lonely Planet forum and one commenter wrote the following:

"When someone pays for the plane ticket with their own money then they have every right to do what they want with their trip."

Other comments suggest his views are certainly not unique. So does he have a point? Or is such an opinion showing a dangerous level of arrogance and ignorance that in the end harms each of us who travel, whether we agree with him or not?

What does our ticket buy us? It buys us passage from A to B of course. It is a contract between us and the airline that we pay to carry us. Thanks to pre-departure checks it also ensures that in most cases we are also allowed access into the country in which we arrive. But what else?

Does being in a country allow us to bring our own ways, our habits, our values and vices along with us? Do we have a duty to concern ourselves with the local culture, or is an interest in this an optional extra?

Let's take Vang Vieng as an example. For those who are not familiar with this little corner of Laos, it is renowned as a backpacker party town where you can watch endless re-runs of Friends while floating down the river in rubber tubes, swinging in hammocks, drinking happy shakes and vodka buckets. Young twentysomethings stumble along the main street, skimpily dressed in their bikinis and sarongs, and hop in and out of each other's dorm in an all night frenzy of drink, drugs and wild sex.

I'm sure it's not that exciting, but its reputation saw to it that this pair of fortysomethings chose to bypass it and visit another region of Laos instead. It's just not our scene.

But what impact does Vang Vieng have on the Lao people who are impacted by it (willingly or otherwise)? What impression does it leave them of how young people are raised in the West? Does it matter to them that many people come here to indulge in cheap drink and drugs and behave in a distinctly 'un-Lao' way? Should we be concerned or is it up to the people themselves to decide whether or not to show tolerance to the excesses of wealthy (relative) backpackers?

If travel is indeed a privilege, then there appears to be no consequence to abusing it; at least in the short term for today's beneficiaries. For those who venture to foreign lands and re-create a care-free party town that has nothing to do with the native culture but everything to do with their own version of a hedonistic Shangri La, it's easy to conclude that travel is in fact a right that their luck in having been born into the wealthier side of the world's divide has granted them.

Safaris in the Masai Mara

Mon, 04 Apr 2011 11:24:00 +0100

The Masai Mara is Kenya’s most popular safari destination and for good reason. It is a vast reserve of endless flat grassland crossed by rivers which play host to wildlife’s most spectacular moments. Within the park you get all the big game tickets, lion, hippo, crocs, rhino, you name it, Masai Mara has it. Perhaps its biggest drawcard is the Wildebeest Migration when vast hordes of Wildebeest roar through the park bringing in its trail a wake of mighty predators. If you’re lucky enough to be in Masai Mara during the migration pick a spot by the river and watch enraptured as crocs and lions compete to pick-off stragglers from the clattering herds of wildebeest.

Wildlife

The beauty of the Maasai Mara is that it plays host to all the mainstream wildlife. There is always a strong chance of seeing lion in the park. Leopard and Cheetah are more rare but sightings are possible. Elephant, buffalo and wildebeest are common. The rivers and hippo pools play host to crocs and hippos. And of course there is the usual plethora of birds and antelope (big and small).

Habitat

The most striking feature of the Maasai Mara reserve are grasslands, which roll towards the distance horizon with only the occasional Acacia tree or bush lined river breaking the view. It is the quintessential African landscape that you picture when you think of safari.

Getting to the Masai Mara

Masai Mara is around 5-6 hours drive from Nairobi and 3-4 hours from the Rift Valley Lakes at Naivasha and Nakuru.

The last hour or two of road to the Maasai Mara reserve is awful, so expect a bone rattling drive. If you are interested in trekking, camping out in the wild and culture then there are some fantastic experiences to be had in the wider Masai land on the way to the Park. Options range from half day visits to the eco camp at Magi Moto to 4 -7 day trekking itineraries in the Loita plains. This area also play host to wildlife, giraffe, zebra, antelope and wildebeest are all common as are all the big predators – so you will usually be accompanied by a Masai warrior for security.

Most of our clients fly in to the Masai Mara on a smallaircraft (Safarilink) which tends to be far more convenient unless you specifically want to combine with the Rift Valleyin which case we will usually drive.

How long to stay

We recommend a minimum stay of 2 nights in the Mara, longer if you are visiting during the Migration and you have your heart set on seeing a river crossing.

When is the best time of year to visit Masai Mara

Undoubtedly the best time to visit the Masai Mara is during the wildebeest migration in June, July and August. However it is still more than worth a visit during the rest of the year. The only exception being towards the end of the long rains in April and May when the roads often become impassable.

The migration (late June, July, August and early September): Mid June usually heralds the arrival of the wildebeest migration and this is without doubt the time to visit the park. There are of course disadvantages of all the wildlife – they bring with them hordes of tourists and high prices. So if your idea of a safari is desolate wilderness this is not the time to visit the Maasai Mara.

The short rains (late September, October, November): This season is known as the short rains. A little rain falls during these months, usually early in the morning or late in the evening, but nothing to hamper your enjoyment of the Maasai Mara. The roads in the park are also fine.

The dry season (December, January, February, Early March): This is also a good time to visit. There is no rain and a good chance of seeing wildlife as it gathers round watering holes. As with the rest of the year, you still have a good chance of seeing all the big game; lion, elephant, crocodile, buffalo, wildebeest, hippo …

The long rains (late March, April, May, early June): This is the down season in the park. With regular rain falling pretty much every day. The weather tends to settle into a pattern of rain in the evenings, overnight and mornings. It tends to clear up around 10am and start raining again around 3pm. The big problem is the state of the roads in the reserve, many of which can become impassable even for 4wds. This tends to effect the smaller tracks rather than the main roads running through the park Still, despite the rains, many frugal travellers choose this time of year to snap up bargain rates at high end lodges. Often at rates less than half what you would pay in the high season.

Accommodation

Our current favourites in the Mara are as follows:

Best Budget Option: Ilkeliani Camp or Mara Adventure Camps
For those wanting the classic bush camp experience: Kicheche Mara or if budget is tight and you are visiting during peak season Speke's Camp
For those wanting a more comfortable lodge: Mara Intrepids
For families: Mara Bush Houses, Kichwe Tembo & Mara Intrepids
For the Migration: Entim Mara

Lake Nakuru

Fri, 01 Apr 2011 09:56:00 +0100

Lake Nakuru is Kenya’s second most popular national park after Masai Mara and it is easy to see why. Close to Nairobi and relatively compact it has a vast lake at its heart drawing a massive quantity of birdlife and all the big game animals you’d hope for. Lake Nakuru is one of the best places to see Rhino in Kenya and Giraffe, Buffaloes, Zebras and antelope are all easy to spot. The big draw are the huge flocks of flamingos that are often found in the shallows.

The wildlife in Lake Nakuru National Park

Lake Nakuru plays host to a fantastic variety of game and good sightings are virtually guaranteed. What Lake Nakuru has that the other major parks don’t have is flamingos. The shore-line is often thick with pink flamingos and pelicans fishing the shallows. The only major wildlife exceptions in the park are crocodiles and elephants. Highlights of Lake Nakuru’s wildlife include a large number of Rothschild giraffe, lions, black and white rhino, hippo and large flocks of flamingos and pelicans.

The Habitat in Lake Nakuru National Park

Lake Nakuru National Park plays host to a variety of terrain. The soda lake provides shallows, mud flats and swamp whilst the surrounds provides some classical African Acacia woodlands interspersed with grasslands. To the West of the park lies a cliff which plays host to bush and scrub and troops of troublesome baboons. There are some fantastic lookouts atop the cliff over the lake, just keep a tight hold on your camera as the Baboons have been known to take them.

How to fit Lake Nakuru into your Kenya Holiday?

Lake Nakuru is in the Rift Valley around 2 hours drive from Nairobi. It falls on route for anybody heading to Masai Mara or the Mount Kenya region. Nearbye to Lake Nakuru are Lake Elimentatai (hot springs), Lake Naivasha (hippos) and Hell’s Gate (walking or cycling amidst zebras, antelope, buffalo and giraffe) and many visitors spend 2 or three days in the area. Typically Lake Nakuru will warrant one overnight stay and a half days game drive.

When is the best time of year to visit Lake Nakuru?

Lake Nakuru is a great year round destination:

July and August are peak season with Europeans and Americans making the most of their summer holidays, so expect crowds. However they also fall right after the long rains, so expect lots of lush green scenery too.
September and October play host to the short rains. Rain tends to fall for only a couple of hours in the afternoon or morning, so you shouldn’t let it stop you.
November, December, January, February and the first half of March are the dry season. Expect hot weather and quiet parks.
The second half of March, April, May and June plays host to the long rains. During this period it tends to rain through the night and into the morning. It is usually possible to get a dry spell between 10am and 2pm for getting out on safari. The advantages are that this is calving season and the parks will be very quiet.

Eating local: Is authentic food always the best option?

Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:31:00 +0100

I have a confession to make. I prefer the Chinese food in the UK to the food I was served in China. I know that sounds awful to many people and I will probably be dismissed as a philistine for such an uncultured opinion. But for me it's the truth. The food in our favourite restaurants back home has more flavour and the meat is, well, more meaty than the fare we were served in China.

Of course there are reasons for this. We travelled to China in 1995 and at the time were passed from guide to guide under the watchful eye of CITS (the state run tourist service). Only in Shanghai did we manage to bribe our guide to take the weekend off and leave us to explore on our own. Elsewhere we were always directed to a restaurant for foreigners. We even ended up in the same places when we asked our guides 'where would you eat?' In these sanitised establishments food was made bland for the western pallet and as a result was a pale imitation of both the food served elsewhere in China as well as the version of the dishes we were familiar with from back home.

We did get away in Beijing to find an authentic duck house - serving only crispy duck and busy with people on the slow journey home from work. There were no English menus and we ordered by pointing at the food on the next table. We thought we had been given a bad deal when the meat we were served contained more fat than meat and it was only later that we realised that this was the way it was served to all diners. And then there was the experience with the hundred year old egg; never again. In short, Chinese food did not live up to its reputation for us. While I fully accept that we probably ate at the wrong places we were still glad to come home to our local MSG-friendly Chinese restaurant.

India was entirely different. On our travels around the north of the country we barely had a poor meal. We enjoyed rich, creamy curries and endless vegetarian dishes. In fact I reckon I could easily be a veggie in India, such was the flavoursome and varied offering of meat-free cuisine. The food was fresher, tastier and far less oily than the Indian food on offer in your typical British Indian restaurant.

I can't explain the difference, but in other parts of the world we have had similarly varying experiences with the local cuisine. Thailand's food was amazing, central America unremarkable. Spain and France are always a treat, Italy can disappoint as well as often as astound.

Eating 'authentic' local cuisine will result in many new and unexpected culinary experiences and can form many of the most lasting memories of a trip ; just be wary of equating authenticity with quality, especially when consumed by a sensitive ill-prepared western stomach.

Pic of the week - Cheetah and Cubs

Thu, 24 Mar 2011 13:47:00 +0000

Came upon this Cheetah and cubs in the Maasai Mara. Everybody say ahhh.

Giving money to beggars: is 'no' always the right approach?

Tue, 22 Mar 2011 10:07:00 +0000

This subject has been covered by many others and a common message seems to run through the discussions that ensue. While it might be tempting to show pity on those who approach us pleading for a dollar to feed them and their family, by giving money we are encouraging the act of begging and perpetuating a cycle of dependence on handouts from passing tourists.

But walking past a person asking us for help leave most of us feeling guilty in some way. Guilty for having so much more, guilty for not being able to look them in the eye, guilty for saying no. Guilt alone is not a reason to give of course. Yet are there some circumstances where the act of giving to a beggar is justified? Where the long-term downsides of giving should be disregarded for the greater immediate need of that individual?

Here are five simple examples that many of us will have come across. Who would you give your change to? Who would you decline?

Person 1: the Cambodian war veteran who lost both his legs to a landmine explosion. Now he sits at the entrance to the craft market begging for change from passing tourists.

Person 2: the Indian woman with a young baby slung across her chest. She shuffles between cars at the busy Delhi intersection, palm outstretched and wearing a mournful look of despair.

Person 3: the Roma lady with three young children hanging to her skirt who approaches you for money while you are sipping a coffee in a Venice cafe.

Person 4: the young man who suddenly appears as you stop your rental car in the small South African town for a spot of lunch. He asks for a few rand to 'watch the car'.

Person 5: the young girl on the London street, asking politely for some spare change as you enter the underground station.

Would you adopt the same approach for each of these situations? Or does the way that we handle beggars depend on our own perceptions of their need, and on how we think they will use the money we give them?

Budget travel: are we doing more harm than good?

Wed, 16 Mar 2011 16:48:00 +0000

"See the world on $10 a day"

"Travel for free"

"How to eat for under $1 a day"

Headlines like these are very alluring to many young travellers, eager to see the world and not prepared to let a lack of financial resources stop them in their mission. Millions of people head off each year to explore the world excited to see and experience all that they can while keeping one eye firmly on their finances.

I was speaking at a local business forum recently and brought up the topic of ethical travel. "How can travel be ethical?" I was asked. The argument went that every time we choose to explore another part of the world we are burning yet more carbon, both in our journey itself and in the consumption that is involved in every aspect of our trip. And what for? For us to get our kicks from seeing another place? Who is actually going to benefit from our wanderings?

"Travel enables us to see and share our cultures with others" I said. I argued that by experiencing how others live, their beliefs, their ideologies and their customs, people can develop a greater tolerance for others, a great acceptance for those who are different to them. The lesson that we are all bound by a common humanity, a wish to be happy and a desire to do good to others.

"Rubbish" was the sharp retort. Most people go to another country and look for their own comforts. Their own food, their own people, their own music. They just want to live a more exotic version of their own lives for a little while under a different sky. There's precious little exchange of culture going on here.

"But think of the money" I retorted. When we travel we spend money in local hotels and guest houses. We eat at humble eateries and travel on rickety buses and boats. All of these dollars go into the local economy, and some of it filters through to help provide an income for the communities we visit.

"Nonsense" was the answer I got back. Most young people pride themselves on how little their travels will cost. Those in motorhomes and caravans who bring everything wherever they go and leave having contributed little more than their human waste. Backpackers on the other hand often employ the most desperate measures to avoid spending money and then plead poverty to those around them, even when the pocket money they received as a teenager often far exceeds a teacher's salary in their host country.

And here is where I turn to others for help in this argument. If we are travelling in extreme frugality, are we making as much of a positive difference as we can to those who we impact along the way? And if we compound this by sticking to our own comfort zones and hanging out only with other backpackers, how do we make sure that our travels have a meaning beyond the burning of yet more carbon?

A walk in the Simien Mountains

Sat, 12 Mar 2011 15:35:00 +0000

North Ethiopia is studded with mountains. In a rough triangle forged by Gonder, Lalibella and Axsum lies a barren mountain range that has played host to kings, bandits, monks and freedom fighters.

The Simien Mountains National Park sits at its Southern edge and offers the most dramatic views and the loftiest peaks. Throughout the park runs a ridge trail that probably offers the greatest view to km ratio in the world. Through five days trekking we rarely strayed out of view of the terrifying 1000m drops to the lowlands below - Lowlands is a relative concept in Northern Ethiopia. The Simien Mountain National Park sits at an altitude between 3000 and 4500m, and the lowlands below are at an alpine 2000m.

The photographs below were captured during the dry season, if you visit in Sep - November after the rains, you can expect crisp greens and haze free views. The incredible wildlife is a feature year-round.

And now, I need at least three showers to wash off the dust...

The first of many incredible views.

Sunset at Sankaber Camp

We took coffee in Geech village, expecting the usual tourist exploitative photo opportunity we were amazed to be able to simply sit, drink coffee and attempt to communicate with the lovely family living in this simple hut. the family slept in the hut on a platform above their livestock, It didn't feel like anything had changed in over 500 years.

Our scout Adem, a friendly smile, an incredible story and a very old rifle!

One of many incredible sunsets

The drop!

The birdlife is incredible, eagles, vultures and ravens soar over the peaks. this is a tawny eagle that watched over Geech Camp.

Gelada Baboons are unique to Ethiopia and common in the park.

A Wallia Ibex. Unique to the Ethiopian highlands. This Ibex strolled unperturbed through the final campsite at Cheneck. (the trail we took follows the ridge in the background)

At the peak of Mount Buahit at 4,437m

View our collection of Ethiopian treks, tours and holidays

What is the world's ugliest capital city?

Wed, 09 Mar 2011 10:14:00 +0000

Few people have heard of Belmopan. In fact, ask most folk to name the capital of Belize and the chances are that they will say Belize City. There is an irony here in that if Belize City was indeed the capital of the country (as it was for many years) it would probably win the title of Ugliest Capital in the World without question, not so much for its aesthetic qualities (it does have some nice buildings) but for the rough and seedy welcome that anyone who has been there will be familiar with (as this post by Aygenlina in her Bacon is Magic blog illustrates).

No, Belize's modern capital was created in the 1960s when Belize City was hit by one too many hurricanes. Being a small country with a small population, a purpose-built capital was never going to be a grand one. But Belmopan's biggest tragedy was that it was dreamt up and built during the darkest, most unimaginative and architecturally inept period in building design. As a result it's grey concrete buildings resemble a council estate in a mining village in south Wales more than they do a modern capital city.

It is truly drab, with the green spaces between the buildings the only saving grace. Even the Belize Tourist Office can't summon up any enthusiasm for its capital, with its most glowing endorsement being "what Belmopan lacks in size, it makes up for in strategic location". Wow. It's on the crossroads of two of the country's main roads.

But Belmopan is by no means alone. In recent years other countries have relocated their capitals and created purpose built administrative centres, often miles from anywhere. This excellent description of Burmese capital Naypyidaw by Lonely Planet's Robert Reid leaves the reader in no doubt that a visit to the city will probably leave the traveller scratching their head and asking 'why?' - thankfully, no-one would be there to see your look of bemusement.

Another capital that might challenge for this title is Ashgabat, the main city of Turkmenistan. Not that it's run-down or full of grey inconspicuous concrete. In fact it's quite the opposite. Ashgabat is perhaps one of the most ostentatious capitals in one of the world's poorest and most repressed states. Gold, marble and the ever-present image of their great leader can be found in ever corner of the capital. Can a city be described as chav? Perhaps Ashgabat stakes a claim to this dubious accolade. This blog by KF and Glen provides a first hand account of a stay in the city here.

What is the ugliest capital you've managed to visit? Have you arrived at a capital and it's been so ugly you've promptly got the next bus out? Let us know where you would nominate for this prestigious title!

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A day in Addis Ababa

Fri, 04 Mar 2011 11:45:00 +0000

The view arriving in Ethiopia coming off the airplane is text book Africa, grass savannah broken up by hazy mountains in the distance, but Addis feels anything but African. Addis the de facto the diplomatic capital of Africa and is a surprisingly calm place to wonder around.

The big draws in Addis are the museums, with the highlight being Lucy, the oldest and most complete hominid found. Unfortunately she is on loan to the US at the moment so you will have to make do with a replica model and very good explanation of the the evolutionary process!

Coffee is alleged to originate in Ethiopia and whilst I'm not really a coffee buff, I can assure you I've never tasted better coffee than in Ethiopia.

The Central mercado in Addis is the largest in Africa. Unfortunately it isn't quite what it used to be, as much is undergoing modernisation. Still, you can pick up souvenirs, AK47s, cows and trucks if you know where to look (not all in the same shop I hasten to add).

Injurra, the typical food of Ethiopia is a slightly sour pancake that serves as plate, spoon and accompaniment to most meals in Ethiopia. It is served here with a variety of vegetable stews.

View our collection of Ethiopian treks, tours and holidays

Travelling light: what would make you feel naked?

Mon, 28 Feb 2011 14:35:00 +0000

There are many great resources that help a traveller decide on the the right gear for their big travel adventure. Packing lists help ensure that the most important little items are not forgotten in those chaotic pre-departure days (a good list was recently featured on the RTW Flights blog). But what about those things that we never question; the items that are either the first in pack for all of us, or that for some of us are precious home comforts that we wouldn't want to venture far without?

Here are just a few of those items most commonly found in the many packing lists of travellers. You may nod your head knowingly at some and scoff at others. Yet for many of us a journey to foreign places begins by making sure that we have a set of possessions with us that will make us feel in some way connected to our homes. Travelling without our must-have items would indeed feel as if we were travelling naked.

Rolf Potts took part in a well-publicised Round the World with No Luggage challenge last year. But even in his minimalist state he still managed to fit many of the so-called essentials into his sponsored fancy jacket.

Every traveller would provide a different list of their essential packing items - the things they can't do without. Here are just a few of what are some of the most inclusions on those lists:

1. Camera

2. Laptop or other internet accessing device

3. i-pod or other music bearing device

4. Chocolate/sweets from home

5. Personal toiletries (including our favourite brand of toilet roll)

6. Guide book

7. Book (other than guide book)

8. Waterproof clothing

9. Extra warm weather fleece or jacket, just in case

10. Spare footwear (beyond what you wear to the airport)

Which items could you not think of travelling without - could you venture to another country without your trusted iPod or your camera? Or is it in the area of hygiene that you don't want to experiment when stuck in a strange hotel? (Some of those cheap rolls of toilet roll can test the best of travellers). Or are you someone who can't spend a night away from home without your favourite cuddly toy?

Is the world as black and white as we like to think?

Wed, 23 Feb 2011 11:40:00 +0000

I read an excellent article this week about encountering behaviour or opinions on the road that we might find objectionable. In the post on his Finding the Universe blog the author, Laurence Norah tells of his campfire conversation with an Australian couple who casually made an overtly offensive racist remark relating to the Aborigine people. In this case the author was so stunned that he did not know how to react and chose, as most of us would, to leave the conversation and the company of the offender as quickly as possible.

The post left me wondering how we should respond to such objectionable behaviour? I know that I would react in the same way as Laurence did here. Not being someone who enjoys any form of conflict I would make my excuses and leave at the first opportunity. But in doing so are we missing an opportunity to highlight the bad behaviour of the individual concerned? And does it make a difference whether the incident occurs in the offender's homeland or in our own? (The comments in Laurence's post form a good intelligent debate on the topic).

Racism is a bad thing and while in many countries it is prevalent, mainstream and socially acceptable to make derogatory remarks about other races, no intelligent person will surely attempt to defend racism in any way. But what about other actions that may be objectionable to us, yet are an integral part of a host culture? Do we have a moral responsibility to speak up if we see something that we consider wrong, or should we accept that 'things are done differently here'.

A few years ago we stayed with an eagle hunter in Kyrgyzstan and our group were shown a pit in which he was keeping two wolf cubs. Pacing unhappily in a small dug out encased with wire meshing, they would be taken the following week to a tournament in neighbouring Kazakhstan to be used as bait for the eagles. We were all saddened by the plight of these cubs but could do nothing, knowing that this hunting skill was the only method by which this family had survived for several generations.

And what about where customs directly injure, maim or even kill other humans? Examples of this may be female genital mutilation, child slavery and honour killings. What is our duty as visitors passing through and being made aware in whatever way of these customs? Do we impose our own beliefs and values on the host cultures and challenge these practices, many of which are a cornerstone of centuries-old tradition? Or do we walk away in acceptance that it is not our place to judge another culture and the values by which they live their lives? And if we do pass by as tourists doing no more than shaking our heads in private, are we complicit in any way in the survival of these barbaric actions?

It is perhaps one of the hardest moral dilemmas that many travellers face. It would be interesting to hear how others have faced such situations and any advice they can offer.

How Should We Travel?

Sun, 20 Feb 2011 13:14:00 +0000

In the second of a series of articles looking at the ethics of travel, David Jobanputra argues that we need not worry about rights and wrongs so long as we are properly ‘immersed’. He goes on to suggest how we might engage in immersive travel experiences and why they can benefit both the traveller and their host.

In last week’s piece, we began looking at the normative ethics of travel, or what I otherwise called ‘should questions’. ‘Should questions’ come in many shapes and sizes, from the trivial (e.g. ‘should I put the kettle on?’) to the profound (e.g. ‘should I pull the plug?’). In the context of travel, we find a similar spectrum; there are little ‘should questions’ (e.g. ‘should I take a towel?’) and big ‘should questions’ (e.g. ‘should I really be here?’). Previously, we looked at the question ‘where should we travel?’, which, I argued, is best answered with another question: ‘how should we travel?’. This brings us to the thrust of this week’s piece.

To recap briefly, it is important to remember that ‘should questions’ have no ultimate answer (outside organised religion that is); in making decisions, all we have are our own subjective scales of cost and gain, right and wrong. Now this can seem a little scary for a species obsessed with order, and for this reason most folk hold fast to normative ideas, going so far as to try to convince others of the rightness of their own perspectives. My aim here, however, is not to impose my own answers to the question ‘how should we travel?’ so as to appease my personal doubts. Instead, I invite you to move beyond the shoulds and should-nots to a land that is governed by instinct. Allow me to explain…

This morning, when you got up, showered, had breakfast or whatever, did you ask yourself: ‘how should I act today?’? Of course you didn’t. And the reason is that for the most part we are totally immersed in our day-to-day activities, such that much of what we do is instinctive. To put this another way, we don’t need to waste time with the question ‘how should I act today?’ – we know automatically – and the same can be said for ‘how should we travel?’; when we are properly immersed in any activity, there is no call for conscious strategy. Immersion, then, is key. It does not answer ‘should questions’ so much as makes them disappear. And so, for the rest of this article, I want to think about some possible paths to ‘immersive travel’.

To be immersed is to be wholly engaged or absorbed in one’s environment, to recognise unity. For the casual traveller, one way to achieve this level of engagement is to study something of their new setting; a language is an excellent place to start, but one might also consider music, dance or martial arts, to name but a few. In each case, the learning process brings one into contact with both culture (in an abstract, historical sense) and the bearers of that culture: the people themselves. Crucially, this contact is reciprocal not reactive, born of unity not difference. Through study, then, it is possible to achieve immersion; the more one learns, the deeper one goes.

Like learning, work can induce immersion. Now the idea of working whilst on holiday may seem horrendous to some, conjuring images of sun-loungers strewn with spreadsheets and sand in your Blackberry. But ‘work’, in a more general sense, refers simply to any task or undertaking in which, to co-opt its scientific definition, energy is transferred from one physical system to another. To work, then, is to invest energy in something, and travel affords us countless opportunities for this. Voluntourism, as it has come to be known, comprises a wide array of activities, from teaching and care work to construction and conservation. Providing the project is well-realised (unfortunately, there is no guarantee of this), voluntary work can lead to a special form of immersion, in which the individual shares not only a social space with others but also their methods and motives. Again, unity prevails.

The prospect of immersion is not limited to long-term travel. Even if there’s not enough time to study yoga or lend a hand in leper colony, one can still look to immerse oneself in this new social reality. Chatting with people, hanging out, sharing a cup of tea – these are all ways of breaking down the barrier between guest and host. And through this flows unity, immersing all around it. When we notice our common humanity, when our interactions are not merely instrumental but also empathetic, any question of how one should act dissolves in intuition. There are no abstract, antagonistic classes (i.e. ‘tourists’ vs. ‘other cultures’), there are simply people, other real people.

So, how should you travel?

Well, how did you act today?

About David Jobanputra

David Jobanputra is a writer and anthropologist specialising in development, cultural change and environmental ethics. He recently completed a PhD in Social Anthropology at University College London, which looked at grassroots advocacy and eco-development in the Aravalli mountains of Rajasthan, India. In addition to living and working in the subcontinent, David has travelled extensively throughout Europe, Asia and Africa, including overland trips from Tibet to Scotland and Beijing to Java. David recently returned from 18 months living with a tribe in the Rajasthani desert.

Responsible Travel: Where should we travel? Where should we avoid? Why?

Thu, 17 Feb 2011 18:59:00 +0000

In the latest in his series of articles exploring why we travel, David Jobanputra asks what impact our travelling has on the places we visit, and by extension what factors we should take into account when deciding where to travel. Government advice warns us against going to certain countries on grounds of safety; but should we base our final decisions on considerations framed more around the deeper implications of our visit?

If you enjoyed this article, you can subscribe to the rest of the series via our RSS feed.

In the series so far, we have looked at modern-day leisure travel from a range of provocative perspectives: travel as religion, adventure or chronic consumption, as imperialism, idealism or international development. The point of these at times pejorative polemics was to get us thinking about what travel is, which paves the way for more moral musings on the matter of what travel should be. This forms the theme of these final two essays.

Before we kick off, a word about normative ethics. (Don’t worry – it’s not as scary as it sounds.) Normative ethics, quite simply, are concerned with ‘should’ questions. Should we go to war? Should we have the death penalty? Should we legalise bigamy? And so on. ‘Should questions’ are funny things really. They allude to a kind of template for existence (e.g. ‘what you should have done was…’) where none really exists. Nevertheless, we are everywhere confronted with normative claims (e.g. ‘you should recycle’, ‘you shouldn’t pick your nose’, ‘you should get a haircut’) and travel is little exempt; the question ‘where should we travel?’ is of this same type. Bear in mind, though, that what is normative is also subjective; in the end, what you should do is up to you.

So where should we travel? Well, at the time of writing, the Foreign and Commonwealth Office advised against all but essential travel to over 50 countries, including Pakistan, Iraq, Afghanistan, Somalia, Zimbabwe and Haiti. Such places, we are told, are unsafe, but is this reason enough not to travel there? Here, as with any normative dilemma, we suppose there are pros and cons. There are x number of reasons why we shouldn’t travel (the risk to our safety, the cost of insurance, the concern of our family and friends, etc.) and y number of reasons why we should (supporting economies, offering aid, spreading democratic ideals, etc.). Ultimately, our decision boils down to a crude cost-benefit analysis; we weigh our gain against others’ using our own subjective scales and then take action accordingly. If the balance tips in our hosts’ favour, we may feel free to proceed. If, however, it is only us guests who stand to gain (as is the case for self-styled ‘disaster tourists’, gawping shutter-bugs with a Robert Capa complex), we might do well to reconsider.

Often, the normative issue isn’t one of danger and disaster; for some countries, the question of whether or not to travel is based on political considerations. Take Burma for example. On the one hand, we are told that tourism provides economic benefits to civilians and ‘raises awareness’ of their situation; on the other, we hear that it sources income to the military junta, thus furthering the cause of oppression. Should we travel to Burma, or Tibet, or the DRC? Again, the normative is subjective.

Whether or not one chooses to visit such places cannot be seen as either a violation of or an assent to some essential moral standard. Rather, the decision is a personal one that is likely informed by a wide range of factors: our thoughts about democracy and freedom, our sense of adventure, our concern for how others may see us and so on. It is not about a right or wrong choice. Nor is it about perfect information (e.g. ‘don’t you know that [Country X] has the one of the world’s worst human rights records’) – the normative makes no appeal to reality. What should we do? Look once again at the scale, and make a personal choice.

There are some tourist destinations that are contentious for reasons other than risk or political instability. In recent years, the dense forests of Western Papua and the upper Amazon Basin have become sites for so-called ‘first contact tourism’, in which wealthy hicks cough up upwards of $5000 to come face-to-face with a previously ‘untouched’ people. Okay, so ‘first contact’ may be a myth – almost all the world’s tribes have had at least some interaction with ‘the outside world’ – but regardless, one is inclined to wonder how anyone’s personal moral scale can tip in favour of such a trip. It would be difficult to argue that the terms of this arrangement are anything other than slack-jawed adventure freak-show for me, bother and bemusement for them. This, then, is as close as we come to a normative consensus, for it is nonsense to allege that anyone other than oneself derives significant benefit. Indeed, only the intruder takes pleasure in intrusion.

So where should we travel? Well, the answer comes not in the shape of a neat list of safe and civil locations, but rather in the form of another question: how should we travel? As the present debates makes clear, it’s often not where you go that matters (even in a subjective sense) but what you do when you get there. (Compare, for example, cholera relief in Haiti with a cross-dressing pub crawl in Crete.) So how should we travel? We’ll return to this question in next week’s piece.

10 countries where you won't find a McDonald's

Thu, 17 Feb 2011 07:52:00 +0000

Love it or loathe it, the big golden arches provide an instantly recognisable landmark on the most unfamiliar of skylines around the world. For many travellers McDonald's represents a safe and often cheap meal, even if a highly unimaginative one. For others it may be considered a useful stop as the cleanest free public toilets in town. Either way when passing through many parts of the world it's easy to believe that the red and yellow American fast-food giant has conquered the world.

It might be reassuring therefore to know that there are still a healthy number of countries that have yet to experience the cultural delights of the Big Mac or the Filet-o-Fish. Whether they have just said no,non, nyet, nej, etc or whether they have flirted with McDonald's before giving them the elbow, there's many a place where the fast food giant has failed to make its mark.

Here is just a selection of 10 of these countries where you'll have to make do with the local variety of fast food:

1. North Korea (ok, not so surprising here)

2. Seychelles (proof that a tropical paradise does not need to serve Big Macs to be complete)

3. Syria (as a member of George Bush's Axis of Evil it is not considered worthy enough to have a McDonald's)

4. Vatican City (the smallest country, yet it is packed with tourists who would no doubt welcome a happy meal)

5. Cambodia (it's on the cards apparently, but for now the millions of visitors to Angkor Wat have to do without the reassuring taste of home)

6. Zimbabwe (an argument for regime change surely, if one were needed)

7. Vietnam (old wounds run deep?)

8. Nepal (shame, as they could easily claim to be the highest McD's in the world - would a Quarter Pounder taste any better at 4000m?)

9. Kazakhstan (the largest country in the world to be McDonald's free)

10. Barbados (one outlet opened in 1996 and closed six months later due to poor sales)

And conversely, here are 10 surprising places where McDonald's has successfully arrived:

Iraq (ok, the McDonald's is hidden away in the Green Zone)

Pakistan

Lebanon

American Samoa

Yemen

French Polynesia

Qatar (maybe swung the World Cup vote?)

Liechtenstein

Saudi Arabia

Japan (not surprising that they are in Japan, but more so that they have 3,500 outlets there; more than anywhere in the world outside the US)

So next time you have a hankering for meat in a bun in a box and feel guilty for supporting an all-conquering global imperialist capitalist machine, take some reassurance from the fact that there are some corners of the world that, for whatever reason, will never be lovin' it.

Hiking the Inca Trail - 5 star service at 4000 metres

Thu, 03 Feb 2011 08:36:00 +0000

It's an alarm clock with a difference. Compared to the high pitched electronic squeaks that drag me from my dreams at home, the gentle tap on the tarpaulin and the cheery "Buenos dias!" made a pleasant change. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee further compensated for the early wake-up. It is 5 o'clock in the mountains of Peru and it's time to get started. Welcome to another day on the Inca Trail.

For those who have completed this world-famous trek this will probably sound very familiar. When I signed up for the trek in order to see the famous Machu Picchu ruins, I was unaware of the level of luxury and pampering in which we would indulge. Four days of hard trekking I thought, followed by late evening fumbles in the dark to erect a tent while battling the elements. Dinner might be a tin of soup cooked over a humble stove, with maybe a biscuit to go with a cup of tea to finish. I couldn't have been further from the truth. Here's a snapshot of a typical day on the Inca Trail.

Morning

Woken with a cup of tea or coffee and a bowl of hot water for the morning wash. By the time we were up and about, breakfast was served. Eggs (or another hot dish) accompany more hot drinks and breads with spreads. A big breakfast set us up perfectly for a big day.

Once breakfast is finished, it was time to pack into our day sack those items that we would be needing for that day's hike (water, snacks and layers). The rest, we left behind. No packing of the tent or washing up here. It's taken care of by the team.

Hiking

An hour or so after starting the hike, we noticed the porter team come jogging past. They were carrying our luggage, the kitchen supplies and the tents. And they were smiling as they waved to us before shooting ahead along the path.

A little while later we saw them again. They had set up a makeshift lunch spot, where another excellent spread was laid out in front of us. No need to do anything except eat it, relax and regain our energy for the afternoon push to the next camp.

Again the same men passed us a little way after lunch, this time with a little more spring in their step.

At camp

It's always good to reach camp, and it's especially welcoming to find the tents already erected, our luggage safely installed in your allocated tent, and a hot drink waiting for us on arrival. Part of me felt guilty for being so pampered here in the high mountains of Peru; another (bigger) part of me lapped it up and thought "this is the life!".

And a final word about the evening dinner - how those guys can cook up such imaginative and hearty meals with such basic facilities never ceased to amaze our group of trekkers. I have completed several treks in different parts of the world and this was the only one on which I suspect I gained weight!

More information about trekking along the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu can be found here.

Camel Trekking in the Sahara Desert

Mon, 17 Jan 2011 11:25:00 +0000

Deep in South East Morocco, lie two sets of Saharan Ergs, or sand dunes. Measuring around 22km by 5km, the Erg Chebbi dunes form an intriguing island in the otherwise flat and rocky desert that marks out the Moroccan portion of the Sahara Desert. The journey to the Sahara Desert from Marrakech is long and in the summer months, hot as well. However, the trip is more than worth it. Sleeping under the stars in traditional (and very basic) Berber camps, the rest of the world feels like a lifetime away. Added to this romanticism, you reach your camp by camel. I headed off for 24 hours in the Sahara desert and couldn't stop taking photos (which is not easy to do when on top of a camel!) Here are my favourites from the trip:

Approaching the dunes, you drive across rocky desert for several miles, before you see the magnificent Erg Chebbi dunes looming in the background.

The camel treks depart from a local kasbah. After arriving and a brief mint tea, I caught a quick glimpse of the camels having a feed.

Once we had our pre-trip briefing, we were off. Led by Said, our guide for the 2 days, we perched atop our mounts and headed off into the dunes for the sunset.

There are other people around, but the dunes are so vast that we only saw people in the distance. The silence in the Sahara is like nothing else. with views of seemingly endless dunes from every angle.

After trekking for a couple of hours, you reach your lodging for the night. Sahara accommodation is basic; a thin mattress on the sand and that's about it. The blankets that form the top of the tents have holes in them, meaning that you can star gaze while all tucked up in your sleeping bag.

An early start the following morning means mounting the camels in the dark so that you can reach a good vantage point for the sunrise. It may sound a little glib, but it is a genuinely spiritual experience.

This may look easy, but running up a sand dune is actually very hard to do!

The beasts of burden - our two camels, enjoy a rest while we watched the sunrise.

A well-earned breakfast back at the Kasbah before the journey back to Marrakech

Our Sahara Desert Tours in Morocco

3 Day Tour to Erg Chebbi from Marrakech from £300pp
It is possible to reach Erg Chebbi on a 3 day tour by 4wd from Marrakech. It is a long drive but along the way the scenery is spectacular and stops at Ait Benhaddou and the Todra Gorge are worth the journey alone.

7 Day trekking & 4wd Tour in the Middle Atlas and Sahara Desert from £725pp
For those with more time on their hands, this is the ultimate itinerary. In addition to the delights of Erg Chebbi there is time to trek in the Todra Gorge and Jbel Sarhro.

Marrakech Travel Guide

Mon, 17 Jan 2011 10:40:00 +0000

Marrakech, a heady blend of labryinthal souks, mysterious snake charmers and acrobats performing at the Djemma El Fna and the enchanting sound of the call to prayer echoing around the medina. So much to see, so much to do, but it can all seem a little intimidating at first glance, especially when you first get off a plane.

Just a 3 hour flight from the UK, Marrakech is an ideal week or weekend break destination, offering a tantalisingly different experience to visitors. Even better, the airport, serviced by many budget airlines in the UK, is only a 15 minute taxi drive to the city, rather than some of the other dubious locations when you have a 1 hour bus drive from the 'city airport' The seductive sights and sounds of North Africa appeal to all the senses and there is plenty to keep you occupied within Marrakech itself for 2 days, with many other sights such as the Atlas Mountains and Sahara desert for visitors planning on coming for longer and wanting a change to the city.

Marrakech is split into 2; the new town, which is full of hip shops with a more Western feel and the Medina which is the old walled city, filled with small winding streets, market stalls and the main square; Djemma El Fna. If you are the type of person who likes to stay in 5* resorts, then you will be heading to one of the golf resorts outside the city. People who want to explore the souks by foot and stay in the heart of the action should opt for staying in a riad in the medina.

Once you have arrived and booked into your accommodation, you will no doubt be itching to get out and explore your surroundings. The souk - a term used to describe the rambling markets - used to be notorious for Western travellers. It was said that if you entered them alone you would be mobbed and even the hardiest of travellers did not manage to emerge in one piece. Thanks to a crack down by the tourist police, this is no longer the case. It is perfectly possible to explore the souk alone, without a guide. Selling and heckling is done in good humour and is very definitely not threatening. The dangers come more from the mopeds that whizz past (apparently the definition of pedestrians include vehicles with 2 wheels.) The other issue with the souks is that you can guarantee 100% that you will get very lost at some point during your stay. the derbs (streets) are very badly signed and with so many people around, it is easy to get distracted. This is all part of the experience and one to be treated with a sense of humour. The market traders are all human and (despite what your guide book might tell you) it is perfectly possible to ask them to help you find your bearings on a map.

So, out of your 2 days in Marrakech, you need to allow at least half a day to wander around the souks, getting lost and shopping. You will also need to schedule in plenty of time for refreshment. Mint tea is the nation's favourite drink and it would be criminal not to partake. After all of the trudging through the souks, you may well have built up quite a hunger. If so, try to find your way to the Place D'Epices to find the cafe d'epices. A chilled out cafe where you can watch the hustle and bustle of the souks and enjoy a reasonably priced lunch. After refreshing yourself, it is time for a dose of culture. Try starting off with a visit to the Palais El Bahia This palace was built in 1880 and whilst there is no furniture inside, you get a real feel for the architecture of the time, with beautiful decor on the walls and ceilings and mosaics on the floors. The peaceful courtyards are a breath of fresh air after the craziness of the souks, with cypress trees and large alcoves offering welcome shade.

You should make sure that at least one of your evenings in Marrakech is spent at the Djemma El Fna - the main square in the medina. Whilst it is a hive of activity throughout the day, it really comes alive at night when the street food stalls are set up and many of the locals come down to take in the vibe. Crowds gather around story tellers, acrobats and musicians and hawkers mingle amongst the crowds trying to sell their wares. The atmosphere is entrancing, electric and you will find yourself listening avidly to the performances, even if you can't understand a word.

Assuming you have had your fill of the souk on the previous day, you might want to indulge in a little more sight seeing. There is plenty more to see. The Ben Youssef Medersa in the north east of the Medina is worth a visit. Built as a school for young boys to study the koran, the building is a typical example of the architecture of its time. Intricate details on the ceilings in the courtyard form an interesting juxtaposition to the simplicity of the cells.

Another sight worth taking in is the Palais Ed Badi, at the south of the medina. Built in 1578 and influenced in design by the Al Hambra, the palace was the ego project of the Saadian King Ahmad Al-Mansur. But, like all great palaces, fashion plays a part and the palace which took 25 years to build was later ransacked in order to build a bigger and better one in the city of Meknes. Now, all that remains are the magnificent ramparts (complete with resident nesting storks) and impressive ruins to wander round. The sheer scale of this place makes it a very interesting visit, after having been exploring in the small, compressed medina. On your way out, there is the lovely Kosybar, with great views of the ramparts and the southern end of the city.

There are other sights of note in the city - the Saadian tombs in the medina and the impressive Majorelle gardens designed by Yves St Laurent. Alternatively, if you fancy a change of pace, then there are cookery courses , hot air balloons or horse and carriage rides.

Ultimately, the key to a successful visit to Marrakech is balance. You need to have time to explore (and get lost in) the souk, you may also want to pick and choose some sight seeing, but above all, you need to make sure you have enough time to people watch at the main square. If you are lucky enough to have more time for your holiday, then after two days you will probably feel the need to move on. Either to visit one of the other imperial cities (Fes or Meknes), to the laid back coastal city of Essaouira, or for the more adventurous souls, to head off camel trekking in the Sahara or perhaps to go and climb Morocco's highest mountain.

Festivals in Cusco

Wed, 12 Jan 2011 17:00:00 +0000

No one does festivals quite like the people from Cusco, Peru. Colourful parades, dancing, music and great food all contibute to making a fabulous atmosphere. Every Sunday there is a small parade held through the streets around the Plaza de Armes, so grab yourself an Inca Cola and sit in one of the cafes over-looking the square and people watch to your heart's content!. If you manage to time your visit to coincide with one of the bigger festivals, then you are in for an even bigger treat. Here is a list of the biggest dates in Cusco's festival calendar:

El Senor de los Temblores (Lord of the Earthquakes) - late March / early April, a colourful procession held on the Monday prior to Easter, thanking the Lord of Earthquakes for saving Cusco from destruction in the powerful earthquake that hit the city in 1650.

Crucix Vigil - May 2nd and 3rd, various religious events are held on all of the hillsides around the city

Cruz Velacuy / Fiesta de las Cruces (Festival of the Crosses) - early May, a Catholic event where religious crosses are carried around the city and its nearby communities

Festival de la Cerveza Cusquena - the Cusco Beer festival - May / June, one of the leading music festivals in South America, lasting three days of merriment, music and beer.

Corpus Christi - Celebrated on the 9th Thursday after easter. A Catholic festival celebrating the Eucharist. Once again, the focal point of festivities is the central square, where processions will culminate at the cathedral.

Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun) - June 24th, without question the number one event in Cusco, celebrated by the whole city and featuring a re-enactment of Saqsaywaman's Inca winter solstice festival, street dancing and much pageantry, around the Koricancha Temple and the Plaza de Armas

Feast of Saints Peter and Paul - June 29th, religious events staged throughout Peru

National Independence Days - July 28th and 29th, celebrated in Cusco and throughout Peru

Todos Santos (All Saints Day) - November 1st, a religious event and national holiday

Santuranticuy Artisan Crafts Fair - December 24th, On Christmas eve every year, a major crafts fair is held in Cusco, at the Plaza de Armas.

Guide to climbing Mount Kenya

Sat, 08 Jan 2011 09:40:00 +0000

Read our full low-down on climbing Mount Kenya, the routes, the weather and the practicalities of this stunning mountain.

Mount Kenya is the second highest mountain in Africa. Long overshadowed by Kilimanjaro, trekkers are starting to take notice of this beautiful glacial peak. An ancient dormant volcano, its flanks have been shaped and moulded to dramatic affect by glaciation. Mount Kenya plays host to dense bamboo and rainforest on its lower slopes and rare Afro-Alpine moorland and plant-life at higher elevations. Alongside the climbers’ twin peaks of Batian (5199m) and Nelion (5,188m) lies the no less dramatic trekkers peak at Lenana (4,985m). The trek up Mount Kenya demands a degree of fitness and altitude smarts, but it rewards all the way to the peak.

Highlights of Mount Kenya

Hacking through dense forestation, with evidence of elephant and buffalo all round.
Marvelling as the forestation clears to reveal rolling moorlands reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands.
Chasing brightly coloured sun birds with your binoculars
Imagining dinosaurs lurking behind the bizarrely huge Giant Lobellia trees
Taking in the view of the 3 peaks from Shipton’s Camp
Crawling out of your sleeping bag at 3am, with the thermometer at -10 degrees C, ready to tackle the peak
Emerging on Point Lenanna just as the red sun rises over the African plains below.

Fitness, Altitude and Safety on Mount Kenya

Climing Mount Kenya is very accessible and there-in lies the problem. With a decent level of fitness it is easy to gain altitude quickly and find yourself the on the night before summiting with a throbbing head-ache and all the symptoms of acute mountain sickness. Trekking with a good experienced guide, taking a sensible easy pace and keeping hydrated makes all the difference. The best approach is always to allow extra time for your ascent, an extra day at Shipton’s Camp takes all the pressure of the itinerary and gives you time to enjoy the fabulous trekking around the peak. Generally speaking it isn’t necessary to undergo a gruelling fitness regime prior to attempting Mount Kenya, anyone who is trek fit, and is comfortable walking 6-8 hour days should be fine. (back to top)

Guides, Porters and Cooks

The trekking crew will usually consist of a guide, cook, porter for the cooking gear plus a personal porter per trekker. It has been said before, but a good experienced guide is so important on Mount Kenya, for two reasons; (1) they will regulate your pace, be able to draw on their experience to diagnose altitude sickness symptoms and have the confidence to make critical decisions and (2) their knowledge of the wildlife and fauna on the mountain will bring the environment alive. All guides and porters must be registered with Kenya Wildlife Services and hold a mountain guide park from Mt Kenya National Park. It is fair to say that all the guides will have a good knowledge of the routes, but only the good guides will have wildlife knowledge and experience of dealing with altitude sickness problems. (back to top)

Mount Kenya Route Options

There are 5 main routes to the peak.

Sirimon: Sirimon route, is the most popular ascent as the altitude gain is nice and steady and it offers one of the most beautiful approaches to the peaks. Allow a minimum of 2 nights to peak when ascending, although we recommend spending an extra night at the last camp (Shipton’s) on the way up.

Burguret: If you want to avoid the crowds then Burguret is the best route. You’ll be hacking through pristine rainforest on this little used route, overnighting at wilderness campsites. Going up this route is challenging, it is little more than a game track in places, often muddy and rough under foot. Burguret is usually combined with a Chogoria or Sirimon descent. Allow a minimum of 3 nights before peak when ascending

Naro Moru: Naro-Moru is the most popular descent route, fast and easy (at least on the way down!). Naro Moru passes through the notorious vertical bog section which gets very waterlogged in the rainy seasons. The vegetation is at it’s most striking on this route. It can be descended in one very long day, usually done in two days and one night.

Chogoria: If you have more time then choose dramatic Chogoria over Naro Moru for the descent. The Chogoria route passes by tarns, waterfalls and an incredible gorge. Allow two or three days for your descent.

Timau: Timau is little used nowadays, there is little forest on this side of the mountain and no facilities, just lots of wide open country.

Trekking with Tourdust on Mount Kenya

This guide to Mount Kenya is intended as a useful resource for any trekker planning to climb Mount Kenya. For those looking to book an organised trek with experienced guides, full support and private transport from Nairobi, Tourdust can arrange treks along all the routes, email us on help@tourdust.com. Our recommended routes are the 5 day Sirimon - Naro Moru (including an extra day for acclimatisation at Shipton's Camp), and the 7 day Sirimon - Chogoria and Bagoret - Chogoria for those with more time:

5 Day Sirimon Naromoru Mount Kenya Trek: Our shortest Mount Kenya trek ascends via the easiest (and arguably most picturesque) Sirimon route and then down via the quickest Naro Moru route. This is our most popular trek on the mountain and includes an extra days acclimatisation at Shipton's Camp to get round any altitude issues.

7 Day Sirimon Chogoria Mount Kenya Trek: The classic choice for those with more time. Up the beautiful (and nicely paced) Sirimon route then down arguably the most dramatic Chogoria route past gorges, tarns and waterfalls. Includes an extra days acclimatisation at Shipton's Camp to get round any altitude issues.

7 Day Burguret Chogoria Mount Kenya Trek: The wildest most remote route involves climbing up the little uses Burguret route. The path is barely a game trail in places, the going is tough under foot but the rewards of solitude and wilderness camping are hard to beat. This is definitely one for the more intrepid trekkers.

Mount Kenya and Masai Mara Safari combination: A popular 11 day itinerary that combines the 5 day Mount Kenya trek with an eco safari through the Rift Valley Lakes and Masai Mara Reserve. Available as regular scheduled small group departures or private guided tours.

The Weather and When to Go?

First things first, although Mount Kenya is on the equator, at an altitude of 4,000m it gets freezing at night! You need to be prepared for overnight temperatures well below freezing (a good three/four season sleeping bag is a must). Minus 10 or even minus 20 degrees C are not unheard of at Point Lenana. Otherwise expect plenty of hot overhead sun and rain if you are trekking during the short or long rains.

Kenya is subject to two rainy seasons, the long rains from mid March to mid June and the short rains from September to October. Mount Kenya remains trekkable throughout the year, but during the long rains especially, you will need to be prepared for some heavy rainfalls and muddy tracks. The good news is that even in the depth of the long rains, there is usually reliable sunshine for a good portion of the day (10am – 3pm). Outside the rainy season, you can expect plenty of sunshine. (back to top)

How to get to Mount Kenya

From Nairobi, Mount Kenya is around a 4 hours drive. There are good paved roads all the way to the towns at the foot of the mountain, but the last stretch of road up to the park gates is a rough dirt road that can get almost impassable in the rainy season, when a 4wd is essential.

Trekking Mount Kenya: Independent or Guided?

1.Do it independently. Only to be attempted by experienced trekkers with extensive high altitude experience. Each year trekkers die on Mount Kenya attempting Point Lenana, it is easy to get lost in the cloud cover! If you do want to attempt the trek independently you’ll need to get yourself to the park gates by mutatu and taxis. The park authorities do not allow trekkers to enter the park alone, so there will need to be two of you. You’ll need to be prepared to bring all your own gear and provisions. The biggest challenge you will find is navigation on the mountain. Paths are not clearly marked and cloud cover is common. If you don’t want to lug camping equipment, then there are huts all the way on the Sirimon route. If you do choose to do it on your own, don't expect to be popular with the locals, as it deprives them of work.

2.Organise your trek from Nanyuki. If you can get yourself to Nanyuki or Naro Moru you will be able to shop around and find guides and porters locally. This is a good way to keep costs down, but allow a couple of days to pull everything together. Try the Mount Kenya Guides and Porters Club (http://www.mtkenyaguides.com). A good guide should be able to help you source porters, a cook and food and make any necessary bookings at the huts.

3.Book a trek package. If you are short on time, this is the best option. Most pre-arranged treks up Mount Kenya include transport to and from Nairobi. At the cheaper end this will involve your guide meeting you in Nairobi and travelling with you on a public minibus (mutatu) to the mountain. This saves a lot of money, but be prepared for delays and extra costs once you get to the mountain if it is raining as you’ll be forced to sort out a 4wd to get to the park gates. If you pay a little more then your trek will include transfer in a private vehicle from Nairobi. Your trek crew and equipment will be ready and waiting for you and you at the mountain and you can head straight up. (back to top)

Mount Kenya National Park Entrance Fees

The Kenya Wildlife Service keeps raising the prices for park entry (to the extent that most websites offering Mount Kenya treks are displaying out of date prices). Currently the entrance costs are $150 per adult for a three day package, $220 per adult for four days or $300 per adult for 5 days. This covers the entrance fee plus camping fees. So for a typical 5 day Sirimon Naro-moru route Nairobi, you’ll need to pay for 4 days in the park at $220 per person. Check http://www.kws.org/ for up to date pricing.

Fitting Mount Kenya into your Kenya holidays

You’d be mad to come to Kenya to climb Mount Kenya and not explore at least a little of this magnificent country. Most people will want to combine the trek with a safari. The nearest parks to Mount Kenya are the Northern parks of Meru and Samburu. Both are fantastic parks with arid scenery reminiscent of the Lion King. There are mid range camping options as well as the usual luxury safari lodges on offer. You can get to Samburu in a couple of hours from Mount Kenya, and if you are short of time three days is sufficient to get a good taster of Samburu and then get back to Nairobi for your flight home. If you have more time then you can journey by road from Mount Kenya to Masai Mara via the Rift Valley Lakes. Allow around 6 days for this extension. (back to top).

Experiencing a local Christmas

Thu, 23 Dec 2010 15:15:00 +0000

In the UK, we complain about the commercialisation of Christmas and the two-month build-up, but, oddly, you can’t help missing Noddy Holder and the smug TV adverts when they are gone. Here in Argentina, there are no cheesy Christmas songs on repeat in the shops; decorations are minimal; and there seems to be little excitement about festive TV programming. A lucky escape? Probably, but Christmas in another hemisphere still takes some getting used to, not least for the change in temperature.

For Argentines, the 24th – or noche buena - is the big one and in their typical style, it’s a late-night event. Come midnight people set off fireworks in their back gardens, roof terraces or, somewhat frighteningly, in the middle of the street (I once saw a car pull up at crossroads and have to wait as some pyrotechnics exploded a few feet in front). Parties then follow until the early hours, maybe even until dawn among younger groups. An Argentine friend yesterday told me how she once spent Christmas in the UK and was devastated when everyone went to sleep at 10pm on the 24th. They probably went off tiptoeing while leaving a carrot and glass of sherry under the tree, leaving her even more confused.

It’s interesting to think about the norms we get used to. Wherever we live in the Christmas-celebrating part of the world, our traditions are so drummed into us that it can be hard to leave them behind.

Likewise, some times you discover things and think, 'why don't we do that?'

Personally, I have my eye on spending a future Christmas in Provence, France. Their “gros souper” (“big supper”) involves a seven-course meatless dinner (which, according to some reports, is quite bizarrely inspired by Mary’s labour pains), followed by 13 traditional Christmas desserts, which represent Jesus and the 12 apostles. I don't think there'd be much partying until dawn after all that.

When you are away from home for Christmas, is it better to slot in with the local way of doing things or try to recreate home? Surely the latter always leads to disappointment?

Are there any traditions you have brought back home from your travels? The tree in my parents' house is now covered with decorations family members have picked up from around the world, from a sparkly kiwi bird from New Zealand to a Santa-riding-a-giant-raccoon from Canada. I don't think either are particularly traditional in their native lands, but they make for good memories.

Photo: Midnight on Christmas Eve, or Nochebuena, in El Calafate, Argentina by Flickmor on flickr

Imlil Valley in The Atlas Mountains

Thu, 23 Dec 2010 13:57:00 +0000

I'm always fascinated by hub towns, where travellers and tourists congregate before heading out on their own adventures. There is usually a very distinctive atmosphere, with a polarised transient community split evenly between the newly arrived and those resting up from their exertions. It is the same feel you get in Queenstown, Sapa, Chiang Mai, Chamonix and countless other mountain towns and it was no different in Imlil. The small town of Imlil acts as the hub for anyone attempting anything more than a day's hiking in the Atlas Mountains. It can thank its proximity to Mount Toubkal, the highest peak in Northern Africa for that right, but its setting is spot on too, sat as it is at the confluence of the Tamatert Valley and Imlil Valleys. Whilst the Imlil Valley isn't the most photogenic in the Atlas Mountains (The Azzaden Valley takes that prize in my mind), it is isn't exactly camera shy: Enjoy...

The drive from Marrakech takes you past the buzzing market town of Asni and then past Richard Branson's exclusive tented hotel Kasbah Tamadot.

At the floor of the Imlil Valley, the Asif N'au Mizane carries meltwater down to the Marrakech plains. In spring it is a raging river, in autumn more of a gentle brook with lush green river banks and walnut groves.

A number of the guesthouses and Kasbahs in Imlil take full advantage of the setting. The Kasbah du Toubkal is arguably and justifiably the most famous, with a stunning rooftop terrace and wonderful warm atmosphere, even if you aren't staying, it is worth a visit for tea on the terrace.

The path heading up the valley out of Imlil passes its last house before getting into the mountains proper. Imlil is a relatively prosperous town with electricity and modern construction methods. More traditional Berber villages in the Atlas Mountains consist of mud walled squat red houses built almost atop each other.

There are a number of seasonal stalls along the path between Imlil and the Toubkal Mountain Refuge. This was unfortunately shut for us (I say unfortunately, as I was thirsty)

Mules are a common site on the trails in the Atlas Mountains. They are frequently used to carry heavy loads (up to 100kg per mule) to the mountain refuges and of course to transport trekkers backpacks!

The tiny settlement of Sidi Chamharouch is built around a Muslim shrine (marabout) which is out of bounds to non muslims. So not everyone heading up the path out of Imlil is headed all the way to Toubkal.

There are two mountain refuges below the peak of Toubkal, both of which tend to fill up in the busy summer months with trekkers preparing for the ascent.

Finally at the head of the valley is Toubkal, the second highest mountain in Africa behind Kilimanjaro.

Travel as Development

Mon, 20 Dec 2010 14:07:00 +0000

Tourism can be presented as a force for good, but is it really helping to develop its host nations? Is the idea of development itself flawed? David Jobanputra looks at the history of aid to help understand the role modern travellers are playing in the world around them.

In last week’s piece I looked at the idea that travel ‘damages’ cultures, and showed how, perhaps counter-intuitively, this is in fact a meaningless assertion; culture is not some ancient and fragile ornament in danger of destruction, but rather a heady flux of thoughts and things, ever-flowing, ever-changing. To argue that the tourist ‘damages’ their host culture is to presuppose an essence where none really exists. What we damage, if anything, is a chimera – our own idealised image of the world we inhabit.

But let’s make one thing clear: while it may be nonsense to claim that travel ‘damages’ other cultures, this is not to say that tourism is wholly without effect for its host communities. Clearly, international travel has countless consequences, some of which, depending on who you ask, will be perceived as negative. Thus, ecologists might highlight habitat destruction, economists might warn of dependency and clerics might mourn for morality. It’s not difficult to think of ways that the global travel industry (or any modern enterprise for that matter) can be seen as dysfunctional; indeed, such social pathologising is for many a popular pastime. But what about travel’s positives? Can tourism help as well as hinder, and if so, how?

The belief that travel brings development is arguably its raison d’être. Nations invest in tourism for the same sake they invest in other industries – to boost employment and GDP – and it is this economic contribution that is most often cited as beneficial. However, there is no reason to suppose that economic development is necessarily equitable. Mass tourism, for example, may source both work and income, but the vast majority of its profits are siphoned off by ‘big businesses’ (tour operators, hotel groups, etc.) with next to nothing remaining in the host communities. This begs the question: if tourism brings development, what sort of development is it? In order to address this issue, we must first embark on a whistle-stop tour through the history of this curious concept…

‘Development’, you see, is a strange idea. It presupposes that some parts of the world are inherently inferior or ‘underdeveloped’ (i.e. economically, technologically, culturally), while other parts, by virtue of some arbitrary disparities, are self-defined as ‘developed’ and thus qualified to instruct. (This is the transnational equivalent of a kind of “when I was your age…” reasoning.) There is no standard definition of ‘development’; it is simply what we have (prosperity, equality, obesity, etc.) and the rest lack. Herein lies the logic of international aid.

The history of development can be divided into three eras. When the idea came into being shortly after World War II, the onus was on economic change in the former colonies. The Western nations invested heavily in these fledgling states, often restructuring entire economies, but things rarely got any better; quite the opposite in fact. Loss of livelihoods, urban overcrowding and environmental catastrophes were among the many bleak consequences of rapid industrialisation, just as they had been in Europe a century before. Unlike their predecessors, though, these newly industrialised states had no overseas empires to help balance the books. All they had, or so it seemed, was poverty, lots and lots of poverty.

In the 1970s, the international development community, faced with the problems it had all but created, shifted its emphasis from economic development to ‘basic needs’ such as sanitation, water provision, food security and poverty alleviation. (This was the era of Band Aid, Comic Relief and news footage of babies with flies in their eyes, a time when Europe and the States, in a bilious discharge of hypocrisy, dug deep into their pockets and into their hearts to help avert disasters in which they themselves were complicit.) The basic needs approach was intended to help the world’s poorest and most marginalised peoples, thereby promoting more equitable development. Again, though, the results have been somewhat mixed; the new approach casts the world’s poor as needy infants whose woes will be abated with a little spoon-feeding, forgetting, of course, that poverty, hunger and the like (i.e. ‘underdevelopment’) are human-made (i.e. social, political) problems. Put another way, basic needs development can only tackle the symptoms of poverty, not its causes. And more worryingly, it may leave beneficiaries dependent on aid, with little scope for self-actualisation.

Since the 1990s, the failings of both state-directed and basic needs development have led policy-makers to seek new ways of tackling global inequality. Recent years have seen a surge in ‘grassroots’ approaches that aim to foster sustainable, people-led development. Often, these are associated with ideas about human rights: the right to land, the right to resources, the right to self-reliance. Development now must be bottom-up and empowering; ‘give a man a fish…’ and so on…

The forms of development offered by travel reflect these three stages. As mentioned above, mass tourism may bolster a country’s GDP, but it does so at the cost of widening the wealth gap, levelling livelihoods and damaging the environment; in this sense, it is much like the heavy-handed (and ill-fated) economic development of the post-war period. The basic needs approaches of the 70s and 80s, meanwhile, have their parallels in Lonely Planet-style ‘independent travel’, which sees tourists frequent family-run hotels and restaurants, employ local tour operators and use public transportation. Here, tourism may serve to engender more equitable economic development, but it does little to undermine the structures of inequality and may in fact reinforce them.

When we come to development’s most recent guise, that of sustainable, bottom-up action, we once again find a convergence with the modern tourism industry. Specifically, it is so-called ‘responsible travel’ that mirrors the grassroots turn; now, tourism must be planned and produced by the people themselves, with profits feeding back into the community. In this way, tourism, like development, can be rendered sustainable; travel becomes ‘ethical’. ‘Teach a man to fish…’

Now there are several ways we could go from here. We could question the integrity of these ‘ethical’ credentials. We could look at the marketing of morality in the Age of Green. We could speculate whether grassroots development, like its precursors, is destined for debacle, and ask what this might
mean for its travel-based twin. These are all interesting issues. But in the next set of articles I want to take the discussion in a different direction. Putting aside all the polemics, the simple question remains: given that tourism exists, given that it has countless consequences that may be perceived as good or bad (depending on who you ask), how, then, should we travel? In next week’s piece we will begin to reflect on this matter.

About David Jobanputra

Photo by Oxfam International

Travel changes cultures: what matters is how

Thu, 16 Dec 2010 14:48:00 +0000

Continuing our debate on how tourism affects culture, Ethan Gelber focuses on how travellers and travel companies should handle inevitable changes. The case study: his own experiences living in Sri Lanka just after the devastating tsunami.

Cultural change, whether through tourism or any other force, is a foregone conclusion. People change. Communities change. Countries change. Losing sleep over whether and how to stop it is time wasted, as is getting all wistful about cultural authenticity lost forever to the cruel march of time. What’s still up in the air, however – and very worthy of heated debate – are the nature and quality of the change we should be ready to accept. Will it be caring and responsible change, sustainable over the long term and sensitive to the unique qualities of a place? Or can we expect (and must we tolerate) resource-greedy, destination-blind change that is more about servicing consumers’ dollars than locals’ desires?

Listen to those who don’t get heard

I work with a travel company that has accepted that there are overwhelming forces at work all across the globe, many of them given greater oomph through tourism. Rather than trying to thwart the inexorable, we are working from within to buttress what we believe are the people and the places practicing healthy and reasonable cultural progress. We know from experience that these people need all the help they can get.

I lived this most intensely when I was resident in Sri Lanka in 2004-2005, a period spanning the tragic tsunami that upset lives and processes, but also almost recast the debate about tourism (and the pace of cultural change) in the country in a way that could have been highly beneficial to everyone. The question that dominated almost everyone’s thoughts (after the dreadful period of crisis management) was how best to rebuild Sri Lanka’s shattered coastal infrastructure.

On the one hand, most community leaders gave voice to a desire for slow-paced and low-impact development that prioritised local needs and desires and emphasised putting new market opportunities (especially those expected to come through tourism) first to the advantage of the host communities, not wealthy (and getting wealthier) industry agents. On the other hand, powerful developers (and their culturally deaf, entrenched interests, aka those same getting-wealthier industry agents) dominated the discussion by putting forward plans for top-flight resorts and cruise-ship harbours on a scale completely out of sync with reality and local desires. Lip service was certainly paid to the value of ‘ecotourism’ and things like it, but it was clear to me at the time that little would come of it. Sadly, I was mostly right.

Work together in a sought-after space

I have written extensively about travel in Sri Lanka, including researching and writing LOCALternative Sri Lanka, the first and, despite now being four years out of date, probably still most comprehensive responsible travel map of the country. I discovered most of the high-end services were working hard to capture an appealing (albeit somewhat sanitised) sense of the place, an elusive cultural quality true to local practice and appealing to visitors. But, whether driven by consumers or ushered in by locals, their efforts to toe the razor-thin line between accepting change in culture (as influenced by some powerful hotels to keep pace with their clients) and battling for its pure preservation (as some communities do as a knee-jerk reflex against the influence of some powerful hotels) always seemed focused on intangible things like arts and heritage – what needs to be done to protect it; how to shield the unknowing from succumbing to change.

This was, I think, a sly bit of misdirection, because the more concrete question of responsible cultural change is one looking at how to capitalise on it and then share the wealth in a fair and appropriate manner. Equitable profit from responsible cultural change would be instrumental in allowing for both a diversity of product from which travellers can choose (putting powerful hotels at ease) and an opportunity for locals to make decisions about how they want to move forward (putting communities at ease). Fortunately, there are tourism-industry players thinking about this. Many of them sit together under an expanding umbrella of niche travel labels vying for dominance in a sought-after space in which traveller choice and local self-determination are not mutually exclusive. Despite slightly different emphases, these labels basically deal with the same thing: a kind of travel that gives equal weight to the desires of visitors and the long-term ease of their hosts.

I suspect that I am preaching to the converted here, but in this day and age of over-analysed development paradigms, of well-documented routine misallocations of development funds, of solid best practices, of known and lauded community champions, of climate change and the search for ways to forestall it – I can’t help wonder why anyone would worry about tourism-generated cultural change in general when it comes with the reagents and tries to usher it responsibly. More importantly, why is anyone still travelling in a manner that is anything other than caring? I believe that the writing’s on the wall and that it’s increasingly foolish to ignore it. No, worse that that: I believe that it’s just plain rude to ignore it. How could you dare to disagree?

About the writer: Ethan Gelber manages media and communications for the WHL Group, the largest local-travel company in the world. He also oversees The Travel Word, a blog of local voices aiming to inform travellers about unique and ethical ways to experience a destination, travel responsibly and help sustain the distinctive qualities of a place. For more on the the cultural authenticity debate, see localtravelmovement.com

Photo: Sri Lanka Hotel by Harshula on Flickr

Travel as Cultural Perversion

Mon, 13 Dec 2010 12:33:00 +0000

"Real" or "authentic" must be among some of the most over-used terms in travel marketing and travel writing. Below tourism expert David Jobanputra takes a fascinating look at the the myth that cultures have an underlying "true" core which should be protected from change.

Does tourism damage culture? In last week’s piece, I looked at the idea that international travel is a neo-colonial venture founded on domination and dependence. This expansionist regime, it was argued, restructures economies, transforms traditions and pollutes public morality, much as imperialism has done in previous centuries. At the end, we were left with a prickly paradox: does travel destroy the very cultures it purports to encounter?

On the surface, the answer seems clear. Anyone who’s holidayed abroad has at some point faced the awkward realisation that their presence, and that of others like them, has left a tourist-shaped blotch on the landscape. We see the clubs in Faliraki or the Brit bars in Bangkok or the child prostitutes in Mombasa, and we can’t help but think that maybe, just maybe, there’s something a touch wrong with this whole tourism thing. “All this stuff”, as some gnarled traveller might lament, “all this Western, bourgeois stuff – this isn’t the real [India/China/Mexico/Wales]”. Implicit in this appraisal is the idea that buried below the tacky crust of Western materialism congealing across the globe is a panoply of ‘authentic’ cultures waiting to be discovered.

These bastions of authenticity are seen as traditional and timeless, pristine and primordial. Inside, we find simple folk, quaint and superstitious, the custodians of custom. All is perfect and lovely, then we come along…

Though seemingly self-evident, the assertion that tourism damages culture is in fact a product of Orientalist fantasy. It presupposes that cultures are static and bounded, and, moreover, that some (i.e. those in the East or the ‘developing world’) are innately ‘traditional’, such that tourists, as conduits of modernity, cannot help but sully them. But of course, cultures are not solid but fluid; they are always converging, intermingling. This flow of information and innovation has existed since time immemorial; it brought stone tools from Africa, farming from the Near East, industry from Britain and Starbucks from the States. Cultures, then, are always changing; there is no primal state, no ‘real’ India/ Africa/Belgium.

It is important to accept that shopping malls are as much a part of Indian culture as yoga, that cell phones are not alien to Africa, that Belgium has more to it than waffles. To believe otherwise is to endorse a vaguely racist worldview, in which Africa, Asia and parts of the Americas are seen as essentially primitive or backward. From this standpoint, cell phones, shopping malls and other accoutrements of modernity, though legitimate in the West, are perverting to the Rest, as if our ‘less developed’ cousins were children who must be kept apart from grown-up vices.

If cultures are always mixing, if they blend and bleed like liquids, then clearly they cannot be damaged: tourism can’t ‘harm’ culture any more than a teabag can ‘harm’ a cup of hot water. Fair enough, you might say, but what about Majorca, where each year the population of 850,000 is swamped by some 6 million holidaymakers, or Vang Vieng in Laos, a one-stop-shop for bawdy backpackers – surely here we have signs of travel’s perniciousness? Again, though, one must bear in mind that in the period before tourism (B.T.) these sites did not exist in some pre-contact vacuum, hermetically sealed from history and the winds of cultural change. 2000 years ago Majorca was occupied by the Romans, and later by the Vandals, Moors and Byzantines, while 100 years B.T. Laos was a French protectorate.

Clearly, these cultures are always in flux. What some may perceive as a problem with tourism is in fact a problem with change itself. This is interesting for a number reasons, not least because cultural change is a fact of life, but also for what it says about the Western (postmodern) condition, born as it is of temporal ruptures and a sense of paradise lost. But putting aside our own histrionics for a moment, let us think about this from our hosts’ perspective. For most in the ‘developing world’, cultural change means improved infrastructure, higher wages, better access to healthcare and so on; it is something to be desired. While tourism undoubtedly changes livelihoods, it may also offer a path to development that we in the West, though increasingly disillusioned by material ‘progress’, have no grounds to deny anyone. In next week’s piece, I’ll look at this, the emancipatory potential of tourism, in more detail.

About David Jobanputra

Main Image by Flickr User INeedCoffee

Choosing your accommodation in Marrakech

Sat, 11 Dec 2010 14:47:00 +0000

Choosing accommodation in Marrakech can be a bewildering experience. With hundreds of options to choose from, it is difficult to know where to start. We've painstakingly researched and reviewed countless Marrakech Riads and this is a short guide to our favourite places.

Costs

The first thing to consider when trying to arrange your accommodation, is budget. For clean, but basic accommodation within the medina, you can find accommodation for as little as £25 - £35 per room per night. For the more upmarket riads, you can expect prices to start at around £60 per room per night to around £200. For luxury hotels, prices will start at around £300 per room per night.

Location: Old or New Town?

The location of your accommodation should also be a major factor in your decision. Marrakeck is a city of two halves; the new, modern city and the ancient walled medina. Hotels in the new town consist of hotel chains and upmarket resorts, often with a golf course and swimming pools and , of course, the world famous La Mamounia. Unless you really have an urge to stay in a large resort, then staying in the medina is highly recommended. All of the sights are within easy walking distance, the souks are right on your doorstep and you can go everywhere by foot. Accommodation in the old town comes in the form of traditional Moroccan houses, or riads - houses built around an inner courtyard.

Riads

Riads are brimming with atmosphere and offer a truly unique experience to visitors to Marrakech They are normally fairly small, on average they have from 3 – 6 rooms, and they vary in price from the budget to the luxurious. Rooms usually overlook the courtyard and each bedroom is decorated in an individual style. Riads also benefit from roof terraces, offering a wonderful location for an al fresco breakfast. Staying in a riad isn’t for everyone, however. Access is often down small alleys, called derbs, which, whilst perfectly safe, can feel intimidating to first time visitors. Added to this, the streets are rarely well sign-posted and good maps hard to come by, so staying in one requires a degree of trepidation. Whilst children and families are often welcome, riads can be hazardous, with balconies and unattended pools, so parents need to keep an extra close eye on their children when visiting.

Our Riad Recommendations:

After many trips to Marrakech, we have decided to offer only riad-based accommodation for our holidays, as we feel they offer a unique and atmospheric experience. We have hand-picked a selection of our favourite riads in Marrakech. They are all in walking distance of the main square, the Djemaa el Fna and have all been visited by one of the members of our team so you can be sure that they offer something a little special. If your preferred riad is not on this list, please contact us to discuss your options.

We have organised the riads into broad categories based on their price. What you need to remember about accommodation in riads is that they are small, individual guest houses and come with their own quirks. Plumbing should be reliable, but in the summer months the smells from the medina can at times waft into the bathrooms. As mentioned, many are located in small alley ways which, upon first visit, can seem a little intimidating. Use pricing as a guide to quality. In the luxury category, you can expect beautifully furnished rooms with exceptional service. Mid-range riads should be clean and have friendly service, but will have less elaborate fixtures and fittings.

Luxury Marrakech Riads €150 - €250 per night

Riads in the luxury category go above and beyond to provide guests with a comfortable and relaxing stay. At this level, you can expect sumptuous décor, immaculate attention to detail and exemplary service. If you usually stay in 4* hotels, then these riads are for you. They have an upmarket hotel feel, but still individual enough to make your stay unique.

RIAD ADORE

Riad Adore is a stylish contemporary Riad located just a minute's walks from the Souks. It has just five bedrooms, each looking onto the central courtyard where there is a small plunge pool. Meals are taken on the roof terrace complete with open fire for ccool nights and shade for hot days.

KSAR ANIKA

A beautiful hotel tastefully decorated and furnished with love and tlc. Located in the south of the city, it is within easy access to the main sights of Marrakech and the main square is an easy 10 - 15 minute walk. An added bonus is that the hotel benefits from car access, meaning you can be dropped off just outside the door. Inside the hotel, there are 17 rooms, all of which have been individually decorated, with excellent attention to the interior design. There is a good sized pool with sun loungers and a spa with hammam. Communal areas include a winter and summer salon and a cinema room where you can watch dvds on a large screen. Upstairs, the roof terrace is huge, with plenty of space to spread out, it even houses a small gym for those who like to work out with a view.
- 16 rooms (3 deluxe suites ,7 suites, 3 superior rooms and 4 standard rooms)
- Communal areas: Courtyard, terrace, cinema room, large roof terrace
- Additional features: Hammam, pool, gym, wifi in reception area
- Families welcome

Boutique Marrakech Riads€100 - €150 per night

When staying in Marrakech, it is worth spending a little more to stay somewhere special and our selection of boutique riads prove that you don’t have to break the bank to stay somewhere chic and romantic. Our hand-picked collection of boutique riads are all well-located, within 10 minutes of the main square and all offer an oasis of calm from the chaotic souks. Many of them are located along small derbs, or alleyways, making their approach feel a little less than salubrious. However, the minute you enter, these stylish, yet cosy riads will feel like home. All centred around a courtyard, you can expect thoughtfully presented rooms with stylish décor. Communal areas, such as salons and roof terraces are a must and many have additional extras such as wifi and hammams. Some of our riads have a plunge pool, which is a nice to have in the summer months. For winter stays, relaxing in a lounge with a roaring log fire is a nice way to end the day. At this type of riad, you can expect helpful and friendly staff who will be more than happy to book meals for you and come and meet you if you get lost. If you normally stay in 3* hotels, but want to treat yourself with something a bit special, but unpretentious, then this category is right for you.

RIAD DAR HANANE

This cool and charming riad is about 10 minutes from the main square, close to the Medersa and the Musee de Marrakech. As with many riads in Marrakech, it is accessed down an unlit derb (or street). Once you know where you are going, you won’t have any problem finding it, but the staff at the riad will give you a hand-written map to show you the way to the square and will help you to get your bearings when you arrive. If you do get lost, you can just call a member of the riad staff and they will come and find you and bring you home! With six bedrooms and 2 generous salons, this is a larger riad, with some gorgeous communal spaces. This riad is suitable for both winter and summer visits, the salons are cosy, with log fires and the patio offers a shady retreat from the summer sun. The indisputable wow factor for this riad is its roof terrace, with far-reaching views and lots of space to spread out.
- 6 en-suite rooms – two suite (sleeping 4, sleeping 3) 2 doubles, 2 twin (or double)
- Two of the rooms (Beldi & Berber) are accessed via a communal stair case, ideal for older families.
- Communal Areas: 2 salons, peaceful courtyard, large roof terrace.
- Additional features: safe, ipod docking station, salon with tv, honesty bar, wifi
- No children under 12

RIAD TZARRA

Just around the corner from Dar Hanane is Riad Tzarra, a 4 bed riad, about 10 minutes from the main square. As with many riads in Marrakech, it is accessed down an unlit derb (or street). Once you know where you are going, you won’t have any problem finding it, but the staff at the riad will give you a hand-written map to show you the way to the square and will help you to get your bearings when you arrive. If you do get lost, you can just call a member of the riad staff and they will come and find you and bring you home! An intimate riad focussed around a courtyard with a small plunge pool, the décor is beautiful with exemplary attention to detail. (The bathroom in the Colonial room is fantastic) On the first floor of the riad there is a large salon with a cosy fireplace for winter nights. The salon is fully equipped with satellite TV, DVD player and music centre and honesty bar. The roof terrace is decked out with tables and chairs, sun-loungers and a shady pergola with comfortable sofas for relaxing.
- 4 en-suite rooms
- 3 doubles / twins, 1 double
- Communal areas – 1 salon, peaceful courtyard, roof terrace.
- Additional features: safe, ipod docking station, salon with tv, honesty bar, wifi, hammam
- No children under 12

DAR VEDRA

A 10 minute walk to the main square, this charming riad is in the west of the medina in the Bab Doukkla area. It is beautifully maintained and has a stunning central courtyard and chic interior décor. An added benefit is a small pool in an adjacent courtyard, allowing you to cool off on sunny days. With lovely communal areas and a romantic atmosphere, this riad is one of our favourites. For families or groups of friends, there is a small apartment offering 4 / 5 beds and a communal lounge.
- 7 en-suite rooms – 1 family suite (sleeping 5), 2 Doubles, 3 twins/ Doubles and 1 single.
- Communal areas: Roof terrace with sun loungers, TV room, pool courtyard & central courtyard.
- Additional features: Wifi, air con, All rooms (except the single rooms) have hair dryers & safes. The suite & Room 1 have their own TVs.
- Small swimming pool

BEL HAJ

A small, intimate riad located about 5 minutes from the main square. This riad is really easy to find and very well placed for exploring the medina with less chances of getting lost! The riad is beautifully furnished and the staff are attentive and friendly. If you are a medium sized family, then renting this riad as a whole makes for a lovely base.
- 4 en-suite rooms - all doubles
- Communal areas: Roof terrace with sun loungers, 2 small lounges, one with TV
- Additional features: Wifi, air con, safe, i-pod docking station, honesty bar
- Small plunge pool

EL ZOHAR

A lovely 5 bed riad, in the Mouassaine area of Marrakech, about a 5 minute walk from the square and close to the souks. The riad as restored by a British author and sculptor and the thoughtful interior décor gives a chic, yet cosy atmosphere. The views from the roof terrace are magnificent, with a panoramic vista of the Atlas Mountains and the Koutoubia. This is a fabulous option for couples looking for a romantic break in a good location.
- 5 rooms – 1 twin & 4 doubles. All rooms can have an additional bed.
- Communal areas: Roof terrace with sun loungers & Berber tented area, 2 salons, patio area
- Additional facilities – plunge pool, hair dryers in each room, wifi, complimentary tea.
- No children under 8.

Mid-range Marrakech Riads €50 - €100 per night

There are literally hundreds of riads in Marrakech and many of them aim for this price bracket. Some offer a good standard of accommodation in a great location, others are patchy. We have hand-picked a selection of our favourites. In this price range, you can expect a good standard of accommodation, akin to what you would expect in a 3* hotel. All of these riads are arranged around a courtyard patio, some even have a pool. Rooms should be clean and well-presented, but without some of the more elaborate décor that you would see in a boutique riad. All of the riads offer a roof terrace and at least one other communal area. Staff will speak either English or French (or both) and breakfasts will consist of fruit juice, tea / coffee, bread & jams. Sometimes you will also be offered fruit, eggs and pancakes. Location wise, we have selected riads within a reasonable distance of the main square (10 minutes walk or less) some of them are easy to find, others are located down small, winding alleys. As they are all small (with 6 rooms or less) they are also well-suited for groups wanting to rent an entire house for their stay. Please bear in mind that given how small the riads are, we may not always be able to offer you your first preference. If you normally prefer to stay in 2* – 3* hotels, then a riad in this range will be a nice treat, without breaking the bank.

RIAD DIANA

A modern riad located in the south of the medina, in the Riad Zitoun El Jedid area of Marrakech. Located half way between the main square and the Palais El Badi, the riad is well positioned to explore the main sights and it’s an easy 5 minute walk to the square. Compared to many of the riads in Marrakech, it is also relatively easy to find, accessed via a well maintained derb. The décor inside the riad is modern and cheerful and there is a small heated pool in the courtyard. There are 5 rooms altogether, including a family suite which has a double and twin room sharing a bathroom. The roof terrace has views to the Koutoubia and is decked out with sun loungers.
- 5 en-suite rooms – 1 family suite, 1 triple, 3 doubles
- Communal areas: Roof terrace with sun loungers, patio, salon with tv.
- Additonal features: Wifi, air con, heated pool, hammam

RIAD BOUSSA

A 4 bed riad in the Debachi area of Marrakech, to the east of the Djemaa el Fna and about a 10 minute walk to the souks. This riad has lovely décor, creating a modern, yet cosy atmosphere for guests. There is a lovely roof terrace, complete with sun loungers and shaded sitting area and downstairs a patio, offering a relaxing communal area for guests. The owner lives in the riad, in a separate apartment, so is on hand to give tips and help if you need it. All of the bedrooms are en-suite and one offers family accommodation. <br />- 4 en-suite rooms – 2 doubles, 1 twin & 1 family room sleeping 4. (This room is laid out with a mezzanine level reached by a slightly precarious ladder, so not suitable for under 6’s)<br />- Communal areas: Roof terrace, patio area<br />- Additional features: wifi, air-con

DAR THANIA

A small, 3 bed riad located in the Debachi area of Marrakech, about a 10 minute walk to the Djemaa el Fna. This riad has a lovely atmosphere, with a calming interior design and is a solid bet for a well-located, mid-range option. There is a cosy lounge and a lovely roof terrace where you can enjoy a tasty breakfast. Downstairs, there is a small, relaxing patio area and lounge with fire-place and a tv. The added bonus of this riad is that it is very easily accessed by road, meaning that you don’t have to walk down too many dark, winding streets once you have been dropped off – a real bonus for Marrakech. If you are travelling as a small group or a family, you could rent the whole riad, giving you a relaxing, yet affordable base for exploring the medina.
- 3 en-suite rooms – 1 double and 2 twin / double
- Communal areas: Roof terrace, TV lounge with fire-place
- Additional features: wifi, air-con

RIAD 107

A charming riad located to the east of the medina, in the Dabachi area of Marrakech, a short walk to the main square. As with many riads in Marrakech, it is accessed down an unlit derb (or street). Once you know where you are going, you won’t have any problem finding it, but the staff at the riad will show you the way to the square and will help you to get your bearings when you arrive. Inside, the riad has 4 air conditioned bedrooms, all en-suite and one family room that sleeps 4. The roof terrace has sun loungers and is private. The riad also benefits from a deep plunge pool and a hammam.
- 4 en-suite rooms – 1 family room (with double bed & additional beds on mezzanine level), 3 double / twin rooms
- Communal areas: Roof terrace with sun loungers, pation, salon
- Additional features: Wifi, air con, under floor heating, pool, hammam

Budget Marrakech Riads circa. €50 per night

At this end of the hotel range in the medina, you can expect to find clean and basic hotels offering cheerful, but no frills service. We have two hotels that we recommend in this category. Both are in an excellent location, just minutes from the square and convenient for late night drop offs. If you normally stay in hostels or basic accommodation and just want a bed for the night without the trimmings, then these are a solid option.

RIAD ASSIA

This riad is located about a 5 minute walk from the central square, so makes for a great budget accommodation choice for late arrivals. The 24 rooms are all ensuite with showers, toilet, air conditioning and tv. The staff are friendly and rooms are clean. Communal areas include a pleasant roof terrace and patio.<br />- 26 rooms, including 2 x quadruple rooms, triples and twins / doubles.

RIAD TAGHAZOUT

A budget option offering clean and basic accommodation, just 5 minutes from the main square. Rooms are ensuite with air con and there is a roof terrace with a view of the Koutoubia and patio area.
- Twins and triples are available.

Recommended Riads for Families

Finding a riad to accommodate your family can be a difficult task, but there are some superb options in the medina for families of all sizes. Most riads will be able to add a bed to a double room to accommodate three people, so if there are just three of you in your family and you are happy to share, then you have a wide choice. Larger families can opt for family suites or may even consider renting a whole riad – prices can be very competitive and you don’t need to feel self-conscious about disturbing other guests. Do bear in mind that riads facilities are not particularly child friendly, especially for the under 5’s, so you will need to keep an extra close eye on little ones.

Mid-range riads for families: Families of 3 / 4 will like the family room at Riad 107. The room has a mezzanine level that is accessed by a ladder, so this room is only really appropriate for children aged 6 + The mezzanine level can sleep one / two children and there is a double bed on the floor level. The riad benefits from a lovely roof terrace and also a pool. It is quite deep, so parents need to supervise young children. Families of 4 might want to consider the family room at Riad Diana – a double and a twin room sharing a bathroom. The riad also has a small pool, which can be very welcome in the heat of the summer. If you have a slightly larger family, you might want to consider renting a whole riad. Riad Dar Thania has three double rooms over two floors, with a lovely roof terrace and lounge. Enough space to spread out and to relax.

Boutique riads for families: The Douairia Suite at Dar Vedra is one of our favourites. With a double bed on a mezzanine level and a twin (possibility for a triple) downstairs, this small apartment also has a separate lounge area with fire place and TV. The riad also benefits from a small pool, which is perfect for older children. Riad Bel Haj has 4 bedrooms and a small plunge pool, as well as 2 small lounges and a lovely roof terrace. The staff are really friendly and the location is very central, meaning it is one of the easiest riads to find. A perfect option for families of 5 – 8. Riad El Cadi is a luxury end riad in Marrakech, but within the riad they have the ‘blue house; which is a small two bedroomed house specifically designed with families in mind. There is a double and a twin room as well as a lounge (where an extra bed can be placed if necessary). The hotel also benefits from a pool.

Recommended Riads for larger groups

If you are traveling as a larger group, it is possible to rent a whole riad. For groups of up to 12 people looking for a boutique stay, Dar Hanane is a very good option. If there are more of you in the group, then you could look at Riad Tzarra, around the corner, which could offer an additional 4 rooms. If you are looking for a mid-range option, then Riad 107 has an interconnecting door with its neighbour, offering beds for up to 22 people with two small swimming pools and plenty of room to spread out on the roof terrace.

Global tastes: recreating world food at home

Thu, 09 Dec 2010 17:27:00 +0000

Earlier this week, Tourdust writer David Jobanputra looked at how tourism pushes Western tastes and habits on to other parts of the world. In a provocative piece on 'travel as imperalism', he referred - among other more complex issues - to those who want/expect hamburgers in India and banana pancakes in Asia.

But surely travel is not always such a one-way flow? Many independent travellers want the exchange of taste and ideas to run both ways, and this is especially true with food.

Among the less-closed minded travellers, the chance to experience new foods and bring back new recipes can be one of the best things about a trip.

Some tastes I've particularly enjoyed acquiring on my travels are ceviche (the "raw" - ie marinated in citrus - fish dish found in Peru, Ecuador and Mexico); Jamaican ackee and saltfish (a breakfast dish, which I have sought out in Carribean restaurants in London); and the simple pleasure of Middle Eastern Za'atar (a mix of herb best enjoyed with good olive oil and pita bread).

So today's question: how many times have you brought a dish back from your travels and tried to either recreate it at home or seek it out in a speciality restaurant?

If you nail it, you can feel like you're instantly transported back to the place you first tasted it. A well-made Thai curry can (almost) make you feel like you back at that special beach restaurant.

If you fail, it can be for a number reasons. The ingredients don't match those you get on the spot. Or sometimes in hindsight you realise that the outstanding meal you had was less about the actual dish and more about the mood and setting.

Have your experiences been a success? Or have never been able to get it quite right?

To get the ball rolling, I confess to having had a few mishaps along the way. During my first experience with cooking quinoa (the Andean grain, which makes a great alternative to rice), I didn't realise how much you need to wash it and my risotto came out with a not-very-appetising layer of grey scum.

And for some very bizarre reason, I once dediced to try and make my own poutine, ie the famous Quebecois fastfood dish of chips, gravy and cheese curd. Except we didn't have chips. Or cheese curd. We ended up tipping a tin of "special Poutine sauce" over microwaved leftover potatoes and adding grated cheese on top. I am sorry, Quebec. Although I blame your fine range of microbreweries for this particular incident.

Please feel free to post your successes, failures, recipe links (please!) and restaurant tips below.

And a final thought: should we be too worried if we slip into the occassional McDonalds on our travels? This writer thinks not.

Photo: Ecuadorian ceviche via Toastforbreakfast on Flickr Creative Commons.

Travel as Imperialism

Mon, 06 Dec 2010 10:08:00 +0000

This week's travel essay is a controversial one, painting travellers as modern-day imperialists. Below tourism expert David Jobanputra explores the relationship between tourists and their host nations. Are tourists just "capitalist parasites"? Now there is subject ripe for discussion. Please do leave your thoughts. If you enjoyed this article, you can subscribe to the rest of the series via our RSS feed.

"I do not want my house to be walled in on all sides and my windows to be stuffed. I want the cultures of all the lands to be blown about my house as freely as possible. But I refuse to be blown off my feet by any. I refuse to live in other people’s houses as an interloper, a beggar or a slave."- Mohandas K. Gandhi (1869-1948)

In last week’s piece, I looked at the idea that travel is simply a symptom of the chronic consumerism that defines the current era. This gluttonous urge to splurge has made culture a commodity, as surplus demand from the West makes markets of the Rest. With this in mind, we have no choice but to wonder: is travel a new form of imperialism?

The Age of Imperialism (1850-1914) saw the leading Western nations – Britain, France, Germany, Japan and the US – engaged in a tireless quest for virgin lands to sow with their surplus capital.

Now consider the Age of Tourism (1950-), which has also seen the major Western nations engaged in a tireless quest for virgin lands to sow with their surplus capital. Put simply, late capitalism has generated more wealth than anyone knows what to do with while at the same time expending most of the West’s natural resources (picturesque landscapes, pristine nature, etc.), so the hunt is on for new, resource-rich territories in which to invest some cash.

These wealthy tourists are like capitalist parasites, draining their hosts of their land and labour and blighting their cultures to boot. From political organisation to the economy, social structures to morality, tourism has affected (or perhaps infected) every aspect of society, relieving its victims of all autonomy and breeding an abject dependence. The tourists, for their part, see such sorry subordination as evidence of backwardness, and thus justify their presence as promoting both material and moral development. Surprisingly, people buy this.

Travel is imperialism. It is born of inequality, of gaps of power and wealth. Like imperialism, travel involves territorial expansion and the occupation of foreign lands. In both cases, the colonised regions are subject to control from beyond their borders, as economic and political structures are increasingly shaped by those in far-flung metropoles.

As a consequence, local livelihoods are transformed; it’s out with farming, fishing and forestry, in with service, subservience. At the heart of this arrangement is dependence. It is a guest-host relationship in which the host is wholly at the mercy of its parasitic guest. As such, the latter must be kept happy; anything that the guest desires is promptly provided, regardless of its fit with local tradition. Swimming pools, beach bars, English breakfasts and banana pancakes – these are the wants of imperial travellers. If the good sahib wishes to eat a hamburger in Hyderabad, or if ma’am sahib is wont to wear her miniskirt in Marrakesh, so be it!

As ever, the West knows best.

All this poses a paradox: does travel destroy the very cultures it purports to encounter? If the tourist is indeed a parasite that contaminates all it consumes, if it is replete with infectious moralities, then what becomes of its host? These questions form the backbone of next week’s article.

About David Jobanputra

Photo courtesy of Flickr User leafar

How do you turn a bad trip around?

Thu, 02 Dec 2010 15:04:00 +0000

Had you asked me what I thought of Carmelo in Uruguay at around 4pm on Sunday, I would not have been able to answer without a tirade of expletives. Everything was closed for siesta, there was nothing to do, and, worse, there was no way out. The bus I was supposed to get never came and I was one step away from getting the return ferry straight back to Buenos Aires. This godforsaken place wasn't just sleepy, it had a full onset of rigor mortis.

So how come just a couple of hours later, I was blissfully cycling around town and thinking about a return visit?

It came after having a turning-point conversation with someone working in local tourism. Not someone who worked at the tourist information office (those that typically pass you a useless government-funded brochure and send you on your way), but someone who had personally invested in local tourism and wanted to make it work.

In this case, it was an enthusiastic hotel owner. He appreciated my interest, gave me some background information on the town and re-sparked my desire to get to know the place.

I ended up scraping my plans to move on and decided to stay the night. Something clicked. I became more proactive; I went for a drive among cornfields that looked like sand dunes; I checked out some historical sites. When I came back, the town was awaking from siesta and everyone was heading to the riverfront to watch the sunset. Finally, there was some atmosphere and the contrast made it (almost) worth the wait.

I shouldn't romanticise it too much as it wasn't perfect, but I did suddenly appreciate Carmelo for what it was. That initially 'annoying' siesta habit was actually what made it so calm and noncommercial.

I have been thinking about how we judge places (and sometimes write them off) since reading an excellent debate on the Fevered Mutterings blog about 'What makes a place bad?'. We talked about how things can seem better with hindsight, when we realise we are being irrational.

But can you sometimes adjust your mindset mid-trip?

Interacting with locals - as cliched as it sounds - can sometimes help, as it provides a reality check. I found that couchsurfing made me more open-minded. When sitting around in a hostel with other travellers, it's very easy to slip into collectively bitching about the things you don't like in a place. However, you're not going to do it when you are living in someone's home and they are taking time to show you around their town.

Continuing the subjectivity/objectivity debate:

Here's Nomadic Matt's considered piece on why he didn't like Vietnam.
Here are some less-considered statements about Peru.
And here's travel writer Lara Dunston defending a place that she has seen the good in but that many others name as a 'bad place': Dubai.

Have you ever had turning point on a trip where you gained new-found appreciation for a place? Ever hated a place at first and come to love it?

Have you ever been stuck in a place? (I think getting stuck somewhere – like I did in Carmelo - makes any independent traveller tetchy, even when we know we are being unreasonable.)

Maybe you think that occasionally disliking a place is all part of the fun of travel and we shouldn't have to like everywhere we visit?

Photo: Carmelo's boat cemetery by Hinayana via Flickr Creative Commons

Latest News - Introducing Vicky Baker as our new guest editor

Wed, 01 Dec 2010 09:56:00 +0000

For the last month Andy Jarosz from the 501 Places travel blog has been editing and curating our blog. Andy has written a number of fantastic posts but is now heading out of the country for an extended trip to Central America. In his place (don't worry he'll be back fingers crossed!) we have invited Vicky Baker to take over the reins for December. Vicky is a travel writer for among others, The Guardian and Time Out Guides and specialises in writing about local life in South America, local travel and travel networking.

Introducing Vicky Baker

Vicky specialises in writing about local life in South America and travel networking, two ideas that she combined in a travel column that was published in the Guardian every Saturday for four months. The aim of the series was to escape the standard gringo trail and meet the locals using travel-networking sites. Since then, Vicky has become a spokesperson for this new mode of travel, speaking at events (TNT Travel Show) and on the radio (BBC Radio 4, BBC Radio Five Live, Radio New Zealand). Vicky writes a brilliant blog Going Local Travel of which I am a huge fan and her most recent project was as editor of a new Time Out Guide to Argentina and Uruguay.

Re-Cap of recent posts

In addition to Andy's excellent posts, we've also published the first three of our travel essays series. The Tourdust travel essays series questions why we travel, how it effects the places we visit and ultimately how we can improve the impact we have on local communities. The essays published so far try to understand why we travel, in the the next section, we'll be touching on the impacts of travel in changing cultures, economic development and colonialism. We've also got some brilliant guest posts lined up from various luminaries of the responsible travel world.

I have also recently been contributing to the Huffington Post travel section. The Huffington Post is one of the popular websites in the States with over 13 million monthly visitors. So far I have published two posts, The Atlas Mountains - Berbers, Mules and Peaks in Morocco and 6 things we get wrong when we travel.

Azzaden Valley in the Atlas Mountains

Thu, 25 Nov 2010 16:30:00 +0000

I recently spent a week trekking in the Atlas Mountains and it was a fantastic time to visit. Whilst the weather back home was beginning to get bitingly cold, just a few hours flight away in Morocco it was still warm and sunny. One of the highlights of the trek, which I'll write about at greater length later, was the Azzaden Valley (also sometimes spelt the Azzanane Valley). Whilst the Ourika Valley grabs most day visitors from Marrakech and the neighbouring Imlil Valley attracts the hordes of trekkers keen to summit Toubkal, Azzaden is the quieter and just as spectacular counterpart. With Autumn setting in, the colours of the Walnut Trees that hug the valley floor were at their most spectacular making for some incredible photography. Enjoy...

The Walnut groves were particularly photogenic, providing a wonderful contrast to the monochrome valleys.

Juniper trees dominate the vegetation and I was on the lookout for the most gnarled juniper I could find. There were definitely more gnarly juniper trees, but this had the best view...

The berber villages mostly consist of simple earth and stone buildings and narrow winding streets. This shot was taken in Tizi Oussem

Again in Tizi Oussem, this was one of the smarter Gites (local guesthouses) the terrace shown has wonderful views over the valley.

This shot was taken higher up the Assaden Valley with the gate to a shepherds pen in the foreground.

There are several simple mountain refuges in the higher reaches of the Azzaden Valley for trekkers. This is Refugio Azib Tamsoult

The valley closes up into a narrow gorge towards it's head. Just visible is the Cascadas d'irhoulidene

The aforementioned Cascadas d'irhoulidene resplendent with rainbow

The final ascent out of the valley towards the peak of Aguelzim at 3500m was a tortuously steep scree slope with exactly 99 zig-zags. Trust me, I counted every one....

The pay-off, the view from close to the peak of Aguelzim was wonderful and arguably as good as anything from the peak of Toubkal

10 Travel experiences that are truly priceless

Tue, 23 Nov 2010 13:33:00 +0000

In David Jobanputra's latest article in the 'Why we travel' series, he looked at how travel has become commoditised and how many of the must-do experiences on a traveller's list are no longer priceless, but in fact can be quite easily given a monetary value.

This makes for sobering reading for those passionate travellers who enthuse about the life-changing experiences that money can't buy - it seems, according to this argument, that money can indeed buy any travel memory. As an antidote to this somewhat unromantic hypothesis, I felt it worth listing a few real travel experiences that for me at least, will always remain priceless. Feel free to add your own as always.

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1. Unexpected guests. You arrive at your hotel late at night, check in and just want to flop onto the bed with exhaustion. As you turn the key to your room you wonder about that noise you can hear, and your worst fears are confirmed when you half-open the door and spy two pairs of unfamiliar feet at the end of your bed.

2. The last bus. You always wondered about the wisdom of that tight connection in a one-horse town. 5 minutes to make the only bus out of town that day, and as you pull in to the deserted parking lot you see the last of the dust settle as the departing bus disappears into the distance.

3. A good soaking. You head out for a day's hiking and decide there's no need for the waterproofs. After all there isn't even a cloud in the sky. Within an hour the heavens open and you are treated to a complete drenching, leaving you to complete the long walk back to civilisation feeling like a freezing cold drowned rat.

4. The nightmare returns. You spend a long journey, or perhaps even a tour, with the traveller from hell. You count down the hours until your paths diverge and you never have to see them again. A few days later, you're in a new town, enjoying a relaxing evening drink. You hear your name shouted from the other side of the room, and your heart sinks as you instantly recognise the voice.

5. The Heathrow Stack. No explanation needed for anyone flying into London's busiest airport. Forget the estimated time of arrival on the Sky Map on your in-flight screen; as you descend you just know that the pilot is going to make that announcement about traffic and embark on a series of frustrating loops above the London suburbs for the next 30 minutes.

On a brighter note...

6. The late switch. You step forward in the line to board the aircraft, and hand your boarding pass to the gate staff. They look at it for a while, confer, and then take out a big fat marker pen, changing your seat in 54G to one in 4A. Your day has take a sudden turn for the better.

7. The power cut. You've just sat down for a beer in the friendly cafe when the lights go out. The staff bring you out a candle and you continue your evening uninterrupted. After a couple of hours with no power the manager asks your group to do him a favour. The ice-cream freezer contents are now going to have to be disposed of, and you and your fellow travellers can help yourselves to as much as you like to save him the trouble of throwing it all away.

8. Only one room left. You arrive late at night and present your tatty piece of paper that proves that you have a reservation for the cheapest room in the hotel. The receptionist looks sorry and tells you that the hotel is full. Just as you are considering your options the manager comes out, sees your forlorn expression and shows you the greatest mercy. Moments later you are sitting on a sumptuously soft bed and counting your luck at bagging the best suite in town.

9. The kindness of strangers. You're in a strange place and you're lost. At home you might check your GPS or read a map, but here there's nothing, and no-one speaks your language. Then someone tries to help you. They call over another person who once knew someone who lived in England. Very soon you have tea; you have snacks; you have an offer of a bed for the night. You still have no directions, but you soon realise that you're having the type of experience that will make a brilliant story when you get home.

10. That travel feeling. You arrive in a faraway place at the start of your trip. It's day one, the sun is shining and you remember with a smile how gloomy it is back at home. An epic journey lies ahead and with it the chance of any number of as yet unknown adventures and misadventures. You're on the road again and it feels good.

What are your priceless travel moments?

Travel: the ultimate must-have possession?

Thu, 18 Nov 2010 19:12:00 +0000

In the third of a series of articles exploring why we travel, David Jobanputra asks if our travels are anything more than an act of consumption through which we can define ourselves as we wish. Sophisticated, trendy, caring; we choose a personal brand identity to which we aspire and the travel industry supplies us with the right product to match.

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The Apple iPad, Reebok Classics, Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Aegean tomato and yak cheese focaccia – ours is an age of consumerism. From our first forays to the sweet shop, through birthdays, toy ads and Christmas lists, we are subtly schooled in the art of desire; by the time we reach early adulthood, we are all grandmasters of the craft.

We know what we want, we know how to get it, we know how much it costs. We know why it’s better than its rivals, why Fad magazine gave it 8/10 neighbour’s asses, why Stephen Fry is tweeting about it.

We know what we want. And we know we don’t need it.

Consumption has been called the pre-eminent postmodern act. It’s the means through which we in the West, adrift in a world without meaning, cut loose from nature and history, traverse these troubling times. It is our lifejacket. It is also our straitjacket. For the first time in history, entire societies are engaged in acts of holistic consumption. We buy not merely what we need to survive, but also what we need (or so it may seem) to ensure a happy existence. And so we buy safety, comfort, beauty and health, learning, leisure and love. We buy status, power, a sense of inclusion. We even buy our adventures.

In the age of consumerism, everything is commoditised. To buy or not to buy, that is the question. Rainforests, footballers, hospital beds – the infectious logic of the market makes products of them all. And tourism shows no immunity.

Transnational travel makes culture a commodity. When the ethic of consumption is extended to new people and places, everything comes with a price. Visit to the palace - $12; mountain trek - $35; traditional dance performance - $8; sense of self-worth – priceless. Today’s holiday brochures boast bargains like an Argos catalogue; instead of homeware and cheap electronics, we find tigers, temples and tribal villages. All are commodities, just the same.

We buy these things for the same reason we buy any other nonessential product: to look better, feel better or else appear better. We are, in effect, cultural cannibals, consuming culture so as to assimilate some aspect of it. Thus, New York confers cosmopolitanism, India spirituality, the Caribbean coolness and so on. And then there are optional extras, side dishes if you like. A five-star hotel suggests status, a wine tour imparts taste, the prefix ‘eco-’ implies ethical acumen. In the realm of the tourist-cannibal, you are what you eat.

And thus, we travel to consume; it’s all that we know how to do. Consumption is our (shop) window on the world, framing our every experience. Just as once we defined ourselves by what we produced, now it is what we consume. Consumption, then, is mandatory, involuntary even. And travel is yet another market place. It is the new mall in a small town, with new stores, new brands and new possibilities. And so we buy flights and daytrips and waterproof clothing and rugs and postcards and carved wooden statues and tea and timeshares and tailor-made suits. We buy everything and anything. New malls are opened, new cultures consumed. Supply follows demand.

Supply follows demand, but with a marked dislocation: demand from the West; supply from the Rest. So travel is a form of imperialism, an expansionist project in which vast armies of pleasure-seekers are deployed daily to ‘colonise’ new lands, safe in the knowledge that their motives are sound (the customer is always right). It is to this issue, together with other inadvertent effects of travel, that I dedicate the following articles.

About David Jobanputra

10 foreign language phrases that every traveller should know

Tue, 16 Nov 2010 18:24:00 +0000

One of my favourite sections of any Lonely Planet guidebook is found at the very back. Just before the index are several pages of words and phrases in the local language, aimed at providing the reader with a basic grounding in the language. Armed with these selected phrases the traveller can confidently ask for a room, inform a member of the public that they have a headache or ask for lamb chop and chips in a local restaurant.

But how many of these nuggets of information do we actually end up using? Surely there are more useful phrases that we should be learning to help us in our travels. Here are 10 additions that I would like to see in the next Lonely Planet edition that I pick up. Other suggestions are welcomed.

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Accommodation

"I'm just curious; could you tell me what this strange stain on my bed is?"

"There's no shower in the bathroom. Oh that? I thought that was a leaky pipe."

Transport

"Yes, I can see there are 9 seats in this minibus, but I'd like to know how many people are you actually planning to squeeze in?"

"If God has wanted you to drive like Lewis Hamilton I'm fairly sure he wouldn't have given you an old American school bus."

Food

"If you insist that it tastes just like chicken, then actually, I think I'll just have the chicken."

"You want me to eat that? Can I just wait till it stops moving?"

Needing to go

"No I'm not paying a dollar to use your hole in the ground."

"It's your choice. Either stop the bus NOW and let me off or there's going to be a messy accident in here."

Bargaining

"Can you please explain how $20 for a T-shirt is lucky for you and lucky for me?"

"You're right, this is a very special price. It's more than double what the guy next door quoted."

Which phrases do you feel we should all learn before arriving in a foreign land?

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Travel as Epic Adventure

Mon, 15 Nov 2010 09:30:00 +0000

In the second of a series of articles exploring why we travel, David Jobanputra looks at the idea of travel as an adventure and asks what it is that drives us to seek the unknown and the unexpected. He discusses the different possible motives that might lurk behind our desire to experience adventures, and how our travel lust may be as much about looking after our personal brand as it is about satisfying a curiosity in the world around us. If you enjoyed this article, you can subscribe to the rest of the series via our RSS feed.

In the last article, I set out the idea that travel can serve a quasi-religious function akin to a ritual or pilgrimage. This week, I want to look at our motivation in a different light. Rather than viewing travel as a kind of religious experience, it is, I contend, an epic adventure, a journey of discovery whose destination, as Henry Miller once suggested, ‘is never a place but a new way of looking at things’. Above all else, it affords us a new way of looking at each other, and at ourselves. More tellingly perhaps, it offers the chance to change what we see, to ‘find’ oneself and fashion it anew.

“We’d just made it to Camp 3, halfway up the Lhotse Face, when the storm set in. 24,000 ft., -20°C, and the snow’s coming in literally at right angles… I remember thinking: there’s a very real chance I’ll die here tonight! We just had to bunk down and hope for the best… The next morning the sky had cleared completely, and to see that sunrise – I’ve never felt anything like it…”

“The rooms were filthy, I mean really dirty: the sheets hadn’t been washed, the bathroom was a state, I was like ‘honestly!’ So we got the maid up but of course she doesn’t speak English. Anyway, the manager was ever so nice about it – we got upgraded to the Queen suite, proper VIP treatment! And the food was fantastic…”

Whatever one says about travel, whatever truths one tries to mine from its representative depths, it is most certainly, literally, an adventure. Be it two weeks in Malta or two years in Tibet (visa permitting), the act of travel presupposes the same encounter with the unknown that is at the heart of every adventurous undertaking. The term itself is suggestive: ‘adventure’ is derived from the Latin advenire, ‘to arrive, come about or befall’. As such, we might view the adventure as a series of unforeseen episodes that befall one, much as the gorgon befell Perseus or Gene Hackman befell the Poseidon. And as travel is more or less a matter of letting things befall one, of submitting to the new and unfamiliar in the pursuit of pleasure, it is, by definition, an adventure.

So what are these things we allow to befall us? Which novel events comprise the adventure? To name but a few of this endless assortment, there are different climates, different foods, different modes of dress. Often, the language too is unfamiliar, while elsewhere we may encounter disparate laws, singular customs, foreign fauna and strange currencies. More generally, travel rests on a series of oppositions or inversions in the fabric of everyday life. Thus, we swap cold weather for warmth, city living for country, fast living for slow, stress for calm and so on, perhaps vice versa. While the extent of these inversions may vary – not everyone swaps the rat race for an ashram or the Arctic for Arabia – they have in common the essence of adventure, namely, the substitution of novelty for normality.

Why, then, do we take pleasure in reversing our daily routines? For creatures of habit, as humans are, what is to be gained from abandoning the comfort of familiarity? Well, the first and most obvious explanation is that the highs justify the lows, which is to say that the unforeseeable pleasures equal or exceed the unforeseeable pains. So it is, then, that the sunrise trumps the blizzard, the food trumps the filth and so on. By extension, travel offers the possibility of discovering paradise, a place where pleasures don’t merely trump pain, they trivialise it.

But travel isn’t simply the upshot of a cost-benefit analysis, its aim being to increase our net measure of pleasure. In fact, the epic adventure is less a quest for paradise than a quest for ourselves. Now this might sound like a clumsy cliché, and granted, it can be unwieldy. But there is truth to this truism, for in the course of the adventure, in the process of displacing our persons from their usual surrounds, we cannot help but arrive at a fuller conception of our characters. This is equally true of those who travel with us, be they friends, partners or family: change someone’s context, induce the unfamiliar, and you see what stuff they are made of. For the vast majority of people, this is arguably the ultimate appeal of travel: it is a means and a medium to know one another, an adventure to be shared. But what of those who prefer to go solo? Why the desire to ‘find’ oneself? And what does this actually mean?

At this point, things get a little messy. Traditionally, people have thought of the ‘self’ as something absolute, unchanging; we are born with a certain nature – good, bad, brave, dumb, etc. - and that’s the way we remain. Existentialism changed all this by arguing that the self had to be discovered in the course of existence (hence the name), only for postmodernism to shift the goalposts once again by asserting that the self was in fact an illusion. Now this might all seem pretty abstract, but these various ideas have had some very concrete effects. Existentialist concepts of freedom and choice, for example, were readily apparent in the counter-cultural movements of the ‘50s and ‘60s, which spawned the first era of self-seeking travellers. A generation and a half later, and we’re starting to see evidence of the postmodernist claim that the self exists only as a self-penned, self-conscious caricature; we do x, y and z not because we need or even want to, but because we want ourselves to appear like we do.

Viewed this way, the desire to travel is inseparable from the desire to appear (i.e. look and feel) like a traveller, just as the need for adventure is synonymous with the need to appear adventurous. Travel, then, is a brand that helps to define one’s identity. Like the food we eat, the car we drive and the clothes we wear, it works to confer on us sense of our own individuality. Nevertheless, like any other product, it is subject to the market and the whims of consumerism, a theme that I’ll return to in the following article.

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About David Jobanputra

Magical Travel Moments: can we have them in our home town?

Thu, 11 Nov 2010 12:18:00 +0000

On Monday we featured a thought-provoking post by David Jobanputra that considered the reasons why we travel and drew analogies between our travel experiences and religious and spiritual rituals. David suggested that for some people, travel and its associated trappings may serve as a substitute for religion. This got me thinking about some of those 'deep and meaningful moments' that many people experience while on the road. Is there an element of delusion in how we tend to view these magical times? Are they really what makes travel special, as many claim?

Let's have a look at a few of the classic examples:

1. Watching the sunset/sunrise. All over the world, travellers will rise at a ridiculous hour and make their way to a special vantage point to observe the sun making its daily arrival in the morning sky. 12 hours later (more or less) an even bigger crowd will gather at the same spot, whether it is by a famous temple, ruin or geological marvel. They might enjoy a cocktail, they may have brought a picnic - most will be taking dozens of photos as the sun bids farewell on another day and the darkness returns.

2. Opening ourselves to try new things: it might be exotic foods, local music or a 'local delicacy' (those words should often be accompanied by a health warning!). We are more inclined to try foods that we have never heard of while far from home.

3. Chance encounters. For some reason the further we are removed from our everyday environment the more inclined we are to speak with strangers on a bus or when sharing a bench while taking a rest.

4. Talking with locals. Similarly to meeting other tourists, we place a certain importance in interacting with local people. Whether they are barmen, waitresses, shop owners or tour guides, we tend to value those brief encounters as insights into the lives of those who spend every day of their lives in the places we're passing through.

What do all of the above have in common? For one, all can be experienced just as easily from our own homes as they can on the other side of the world. Yet how many of us will stop to look at the sunset from our back garden? Who will talk to a stranger on a train, or take the time to show an interest in the lives of those that they meet in the course of their day?

What is it about travel that makes us become so much more adventurous? Without doubt many of us do become less inhibited and more curious as we venture through new lands. Yet I wonder what it is that drives that curiosity, when so many of the magical travel moments could be experienced just as easily on our own doorstep.

Travel as Religious Experience

Fri, 05 Nov 2010 13:17:00 +0000

In the first of a series of articles exploring why we travel, David Jobanputra looks at the rituals that are associated with modern long-term travel and asks whether they are in some way a parallel to the religious and spiritual rituals that people have followed for countless generations. A thought-provoking article that should conjure familiar images to anyone who has experienced the backpacker trail. If you enjoyed this article, you can subscribe to the rest of the series via our RSS feed.

Why We Travel?

What is travel? A strange question perhaps, given the purview of this website. But let us think well for a moment. Why do we do it? What does it do for us, and to us, and to the world around us? What is the worth of travel, and what is its cost? In this short series of articles, I want to think through some of these questions. My aim is to find not answers but analogies, alternative ways of thinking about travel and travellers that might challenge some old preconceptions. In the coming weeks, I’ll be looking at travel as an epic quest or adventure, as an act of cultural ‘cannibalism’ and as a new form of imperialism. To kick off, though, I invite you to think about travel as a kind of religious ritual.

Picture the scene: There’s a lake or a river or something like that, maybe even a sea. And it’s sunrise, or sunset, it doesn’t matter which, and the sun slides low across the sky like an egg yolk. All along the shoreline, lined-up up like little lanterns, are the beach huts or bungalows or whatever - the backpacker barracks. And out front, on the balconies and rooftops, sprawled across cushions or strung-out in hammocks, are the travellers themselves.

Tarquin is deep in a dog-eared Dumas he traded two towns back. With his free hand (and much deliberation) he strokes a ponderous beard. His is a fossilised figure: skin coarse and cracked as old leather, hair the texture of twine. On his feet, chappals worn to a crisp; his vest is peppered with holes. He looks up. Across the deck, four round and ruddy-faced girls sit perched on poofs like hens on the nest. They gossip, giggle. One scans idly through photos as another sows beads in her hair. One is consulting the guidebook. One is writing a postcard. Gap years, thinks Tarquin, with a cock of his pierced ‘brow, slaves to the Lonely Planet. “They change their climate, not their soul, who rush across the sea.” Hmmm. Maybe he’ll feed them that one later, if he deigns to converse.

Travel as a Ritual

So consider: a ritual, loosely defined, is a kind of social operating procedure. It’s a time-tested template, a pre-cut pattern of acts and utterances, which, properly connected, can communicate changes in the status of participants. A wedding ceremony is an obvious example. There are vows and rings and drunken speeches, and these have to be used in just the right place, at just the right time, to make the marriage effective. So too with funerals, christenings, Bar Mitzvahs, you name it. A ritual doesn’t have to be religious of course. Graduations, hazings, even stag- and hen-nights – all involve a certain modus operandi (think silly clothes and public performance), adherence to which serves to signpost safe passage from one life-stage to the next.

Now in secular society, we’re somewhat starved of decent life-changing rituals. You’d be hard-pressed to argue that a stag-night is as mind-blowingly transformative as the Hindu vel kavadi or an Amerindian vision quest (despite, perhaps, the noble efforts of the best man). But regardless, we all still participate in rituals. In fact, they appear to be pretty much indispensable to human culture. By following the established procedure at certain key stages of our lives, we’re in effect ‘reinvesting’ in society, subscribing to its overarching ethos. Thus, every time we do a ritual, we at once remake society.

The Backpacker's Uniform

So how does all this apply to travel, you might well ask. Let’s think again about the gaggle of gap years sketched out above. Every year, approximately 100,000 school-leavers head overseas prior to embarking on work or further education. Many more young people take similar breaks during or after their studies, or in-between jobs. Among this growing demographic, which is worth an estimated £2.2 billion in the UK alone, there are two major gap year options: project-based trips with organisations such as Global Vision International (GVI) and Voluntary Service Overseas (VSO); or budget backpacking through Asia, Australasia and the Americas. Of those who opt for the latter, some 25,000 visit Thailand, Australia and New Zealand in the same outing, making this the pre-eminent gap year circuit. Already, then, we have the first elements of ritual: time and place. But what else? Well, for a start you need the costume. (Rituals, you will recall, work best in garish garb.) Ponchos, sarongs, fisherman’s pants: practical, yes, but also symbolic. Like braids, dreadlocks, tattoos and piercings, this decorative dress denotes a departure from everyday life and heightens the sense of occasion. There are other adornments too: the journal; the guidebook; the low-slung knapsack. And then there is ritual talk: “where are you going?”; “where have you been?”; “did you ‘do’ this monument/trek/natural wonder?”; etc. Drink, drugs and digital photos, sun, sea and social networks – these too are ubiquitous features.

Travel, then, becomes ritual; there is an order of action, a template to be followed. Upon their return from the wilderness, our young vagrants are transformed (or reformed) into worldly-wise Westerners, new sovereign citizens of a global era. (Theirs is the Earth and everything that’s in it!) Through their reintegration, initiates renew a vow to society. In return, society bestows on them the mantle of maturity, endorsing their experience as life-changing and morally valid.

Enlightenment

But what of Tarquin, and his scorn, and his esoteric fiction? What of all those who recognise the ritual and take pains to avoid it? Is travel, for Tarquins, still quasi-religious? Here, the idiom of ritual is surely redundant. Consider, instead, a pilgrim, or a wandering ascetic. Both are in search of spiritual fulfilment, the latter through acts of denial, the former through transit itself. For souls such as Tarquin, travel affords a path to enlightenment, whether through disavowal (detachment from one’s home-world), austerity (renunciation of material comforts) or more formal spiritual practice (yoga, meditation and so on). In such cases, travel seems less an assent to cultural values than a means to reflect upon and challenge them.

So there we have it. What appears a humble waterfront guesthouse is in fact a stage upon which various reverent rites are enacted, be it a kind of coming of age ritual akin to an aboriginal walkabout or the righteous restraint of the shoestring ascetic. Viewing travel in this light is in no way meant to devalue it - quite the opposite in fact. While at one level these foreign forays are decidedly frivolous, at another they can be seen to fulfil basic social functions. Indeed, for many in the West today, overseas travel has come to fill the void vacated by ‘real’ religions, providing meaning, purpose, awe and wonder, as well as a sense of community. As we shall see in the following article, it may also serve to satisfy an ancient appetite for adventure and an innate itching of figurative feet.

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About David Jobanputra

Internet References

http://www.tes.co.uk/article.aspx?storycode=388798

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gap_year

http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/YoungPeople/Workandcareers/Workexperienceandvolunteering/DG_066213

Going local: are we driven by selfish motives?

Thu, 04 Nov 2010 08:10:00 +0000

If anyone mentions that they're travelling to Ushuaia in Argentina I instinctively want to tell them about the guest house in which we spent 3 memorable nights. The two young owners were on hand for anything we wanted but otherwise left us in peace to enjoy their beautiful property and its outstanding views. It's a simple formula that is so rarely applied elsewhere. As a result we felt relaxed and have never more at home in a foreign land. Once home we joined the legions of satisfied people and added our 5 star raving review to TripAdvisor. And if anyone tells me they'll be in northern Laos I'll insist that they visit a particular cafe in Nong Khiaw where the lovely owner will fuss over you like a doting aunt, and given a day's warning will bake you a sensational key lime pie and serve it with a heart-melting smile.

Why do I have such strong memories of these experiences? They are not the only examples of wonderful service I've encountered on our travels. A big part of these experiences is the personal attention of the business owners, and the way in which they demonstrated a great pride in what they do. In both cases I left feeling satisfied not only for the quality of my own experience, but also for the fact that I’d found a ‘hidden gem’, a place that was full of charm and one that I would want to spread the word about, to anyone who would listen.

Perhaps this gets to the heart of the matter of 'going local', whether that is in a faraway exotic land or even in our home town. It’s about our own role in championing the cause of the little guy whose values we admire. Whenever we make a recommendation to others, people will see a little bit of us in the experience they have as a result of our endorsement. As a result we often make suggestions according to how we wish to be perceived; we recommend the smiley, happy shopkeeper or the gritty woman fighting against impossible odds because they might be the qualities that we admire and with which we wish to be associated.

When we leave that amazing locally-run establishment we feel good. Good for having enjoyed a good stay/meal on one hand, but it runs deeper. We also might feel good for supporting a local enterprise and for having had that encounter with the owner who checked in on us and even shared a little of his own story. After all, most of us value the chance to learn a little of the life of the people we meet. And beyond these emotions we also congratulate ourselves for having found a fantastic place to tell others about as soon as we get the chance. How many of us can claim to have had those positive feelings in a five star 2000 room resort?

And here’s the challenge for the small local business: how can those happy emotions be packaged up and marketed to prospective customers? You can’t exactly tell people how lovely and modest you are in a brash promotional campaign. For many people even labels suggesting fair trade, cooperative support or carbon awareness convey little more than evidence of a recent visit by a consultant with a checklist.

That’s not to say that these wonderful local businesses shouldn’t promote themselves; quite the opposite. But perhaps that magic, that unforgettable quality that makes us sing the praises of a restaurant, hotel or tour company from every rooftop (and web page), is something that can only be experienced at first hand. And as these encounters are in many ways the essence of the travel experience, maybe that’s just as well.

Introducing Andy Jarosz as Guest Editor and our Travel Essay Series

Tue, 02 Nov 2010 14:18:00 +0000

November marks the start of a new project on the Tourdust blog, we’ve invited Andy Jarosz from the acclaimed 501 Places blog to take the reins as guest editor of the blog and the @tourdust twitter account.

During Andy’s reign as guest editor we will be publishing a series of thought provoking articles questioning why we travel, how it effects the places we visit and ultimately how we can improve the impact we have on local communities.

We’ll be asking if travel is a rite of passage, a mythological adventure or simply just a form of consumption with the tourist nothing more than a cultural cannibal.

We’ll be investigating whether travel is a form of cultural imperialism destroying cultures and sustaining inequalities or whether the cultural change and development catalysed by tourism is actually a positive.

The Series in Full

Why we travel

The impact of travel

How and where should we travel

With each subject we will publish thoughts both from Andy (in his capacity as travel blogger) and David Jobanputra (PhD in social anthropology) who has studied first hand the impact of eco-development and grassroots advocacy in India. We’ll be pitching the blogger's view against the academic's view, as well, of course as welcoming comments from all of our readers.

There are no right's or wrong's in these discussions, no absolute truths. Our objective, as passionate believers in local and responsible travel, is to provoke thoughtfulness and raise awareness of the issues. So please let us know your thoughts, your experience and your comments and if the debate moves you to blog about it, let us know and we will happily link to your contribution to the debate!

About Andy Jarosz

Andy blogs at 501Places and is a Lonely Planet featured blogger and freelance writer. Andy has travelled across six continents (Antarctica is still on the list) and has a particular interest in the former Soviet Union and Eastern Europe, as these areas act as the backdrop to his family's incredible history. He also has a fascination with the aurora borealis and is always eager to brave the cold dark nights of the north to catch another glimpse of nature's greatest show.

About David Jobanputra

Tourdust finalist in Travolution Awards

Mon, 27 Sep 2010 17:53:00 +0100

Tourdust has been nominated for two awards at the prestigious Travolution Industry Awards tomorrow night.

1. Best B2C Travel Blog

2. Best Tickets/Attractions/Excursions Website

So a big thanks is due to everyone who has commented and helped build this blog over the first year of its existence. More details of the awards are available at http://www.travolutionawards.co.uk/travolutionawards2010/2010-finalists

Why holidays are good for the soul

Tue, 21 Sep 2010 19:55:00 +0100

Is it just me, or do you spend a lot of time at work, on the train, on the school run dreaming about escaping the hum drum of every day life? Possibly your day dreams take you to living a self-sustaining life in an eco-lodge in the jungle, running your own vineyard in southern France, or relocating to Australia to become a surf dude? Perhaps you're not as extreme as me.. maybe it's just a week in the sun that you crave, or a weekend alone without the kids.

The point is, escapism is as much in the planning as in the doing. I would estimate that in one week, I daydream about my next holiday / break / life change at least once a day. I thumb past beautiful beach photos in a magazine, flick past travel ads on tv, or gaze at the world map on the wall imagining frivolously where next. You turn round to your friend in the pub, or over a coffee and ask the question 'if you could be anywhere right now, where would it be?' Right now, my three year old loves playing that game. 'South America' she replies, 'because there are no lions there.' Okay, let's not mention the anacondas quite yet. But she, like the rest of us, is learning the great art of holidays by escapism. Online, as well, there are a plethora of fantastic sites to browse, with images and copy to inspire and get the heart beating. And that's just in the world of travel. Everywhere you look, there are adverts, messages products, all designed with one tantalising message; If you buy me, you will escape your current life in some form or other.

But, away from the philosophising about the media-intensive world we live in and back to the wanderlust. After hours spent musing, planning and researching about an ideal holiday (and then the ensuing diplomatic negotiation about where you all wish to go) you finally arrive, slump on the bed and utter 'I so needed a holiday.'

And then, after the first few days of exploration and culture shock have worn off a bit and you start to relax, what do you start thinking about? Home. All the time you're there, you never really question what you're doing - you're too busy doing it. But with a little distance, a bird's eye view of your life, you start to see it with objectivity, even with a little fondness. Perspective allows you to make changes, big ones, maybe, but also small ones; fitness regimes and new starts.

Then, it's back on the plane to return to normal life. The post holiday glow lasts around a few weeks (if you're lucky) maybe less and then your mind starts drifting to planning your next break. Even if you were living on paradise island, had relocated to your nirvana, you would spend the initial honeymoon period thinking about how lucky you are and then you would start planning your escape; the next adventure.

The point is, like it or not, we all need the humdrum and routine of life. Without it, there is no escapism. And with no need for escapism, there is no chance for reflection and no chance to look forward and make changes in your life. So, as the autumn days start to draw in, indulge yourself in some planning and escapism. Embrace your restlessness and also your day to day, it's all part of the fine balance of life.

Guide books - a love affair.

Thu, 12 Aug 2010 12:35:00 +0100

There is a lot of discussion in the media at the moment about the future of the non-digital industry, with digital channels becoming increasingly dominant in the music and film industries and the same trend set to become reality in the print-publishing world. Opinion is split between traditionalists, who prefer the tactile experience of reading a book and modernisers who argue that e-books and i-pads offer instant availability and wider publication, giving more choice for consumers and more opportunities for authors. Whichever side of the fence you sit, and it may well depend on your generation, one thing is for sure, the digital age is upon us, so where does that leave travel writing?

On Radio 4 this morning, travel writer Jennifer Cox and John DuhIgg from DK books were discussing the future of travel publications, with Cox arguing that there was no substitute for the paper guide book - both for its cockroach swatting abilities and its status symbol properties – whilst Duhigg asserted that the internet and travel apps were the future and could well replace their paper predecessors.

Call me a luddite, but I can’t imagine the latter. Maybe that’s because I cut my teeth in the world of travel in the era of ‘the Beach’ - an over-sized backpack, sarong and those ‘must have’ traveller items – a journal and a Lonely Planet. Ok, the journal was pretentious, meant to record my great inner voyage of self-discovery, but actually was full of blank pages and a list of cash withdrawals. My Lonely Planet on the other hand, was my bible. It was used to plan departures, accommodation and was even used as a comforter – something to hug to as I crossed intimidating border crossings – you see scary policeman, I’m just a 20 something on a voyage of self-discovery, please don’t open up my backpack and show my dirty underwear to the world.

I was so in love with my Lonely Planet that I used to make notes highlighting errors or tit bits of advice, how I longed to be in the acknowledgements section in the next edition. This would be proof to the world that I was a hard-core backpacker, best of the best, Top Gun style.

Now, of course, you don’t need to go far to prove your backpacking mettle. Just google travel advice and there are hundreds of travel forums with eager beavers offering all sorts of tips and advice. You no longer need to depend solely on a travel writer for reviews, but there is constant advice at your fingertips. How can that not be a good thing? If you can download directions and maps onto your i-phone, or even book your accommodation before you get there, then why not?

There is no doubt about the relevance of apps and the internet for the on the spot planning element of a trip. Instant access with advice on where to eat tonight is really not that different from asking the weird dreadlocked travellers in the room next to you in your hostel. Likewise, in the pre-planning days when you are trying to work out where to go, the internet, while at times bewildering, holds the key to some incredibly inspiring and useful information. Photos, videos, why not get a feel for the places on offer to visit?

Where the books still hold their relevance for me, are the in-between phase. The part when you’re sitting on a train, getting excited about visiting another World Heritage Site. Leafing through your guide book whilst sipping your fruit shake and planning your next few days.

The utopia for the publishers is to sign you up in your pre-planning phase and then have you subscribe to on the spot advice while you’re out on the road. The reality – you use the web for your planning and then supplement advice and forums with a bootleg Lonely Planet bought on Koh San Road.

So where does that leave us? As I stare wistfully at my tired, wilting Lonely Planet collection on the shelves I find it painful to imagine a world without them. I can’t imagine that guide books will die a sudden death, they will (like all books) be around for years to come and will slowly be replaced by their digital cousins. It will be a slow and subtle death over time, dictated by the backpackers of the future, not by us backpacking dinosaurs of the past. I, for one, will whole heartedly embrace the new technology, but at the same time, fully intend to be buried with mine.

Thanks to Flickr user Ihourahane for the photo

Travel Music: A Playlist for Travellers

Fri, 09 Jul 2010 14:06:00 +0100

Travelling always seems to be accompanied by a rich soundtrack, a background playlist that plays through the cafes, the hostels, the bus journeys and of course the bars we pass through. Much of it consists of a terrible pastiche of traditional music (think of the souvenir shop) and often hashed reworkings of western popular music. Likewise your Ipod is subject to whatever is the flavour of the day - so for me Australia will always remind me of Fat Boy Slim (yes, it was that long ago). More interesting though, is the music that talks, no, sings of a place - travel music. Travel music is the kind of music that, if you close your eyes, drags you away from a rainy evening at home to somewhere far more adventurous. This collection of travel music is a combination of truly great world music and songs which, although produced far from the shores of their subject, somehow manage to capture its spirit. So without further ado, sit back and enjoy.

The playlist is available on Spotify at http://open.spotify.com/user/bencol/playlist/1rCOZEZAUGmaLwBXw90MZX

Before You Go: Ramblin'Man by Lemonjelly
A song for anyone with a spirit of adventure, this should by default, be the hold music for any travel company worth its salt. The song samples an interview with a fictional ramblin'man with a wonderfully gravelly voice that talks of too many late nights with a fine scotch. At times it is simply a recital of evocative place-names (67 places to be precise - of which I've only visited 20 disappointingly) but it ends with a line that will strike to the core of any itchy footed traveller, "and you are going to keep on rambling?" "Oh yes .... I have to"

At The Airport: Mad Rush by Phillip Glass
A song for any transport terminal anywhere. Put you headphones on and float through the crowds as if you are starring in your own movie. This should actually, in all fairness to the genius of Phillip Glass, be served as a crescendo to some other Glass masters such as Knee play and the Evening song.

Moving On: On the Road Again by Willie Nelson
This is the song that will play through your head every time you leave your last night's abode. There ain't nothing like packing up your sack, leaving a joint and never looking back. It doesn't matter whether you are hitch-hiking or climbing back into your rent-a-reck, it'll always be there with you. "on the road again...I just can't wait to be on the road again..."

Hawaii: Somewhere over The Rainbow by Israel Kamakawiwo'ole
Sun, surf, warm evening light, swaying palms and the Ukulele just about sums up Hawaii and this re-imagining of the classic Wizard of Oz ditty captures the spirit perfectly. The best and original ukulele version is by the legendary Israel Kamakawiwo'ole, one of the most influential musical artists in recent Hawaian history. Unfortunately this version isn't available on Spotify so you'll have to do with this passable imitation.

US Road Trip: Silver Dagger by The Fleet Foxes
Sun, surf, warm evening light, wait a minute we did that. This time it is blissful sunshine filled rural USA that is evoked by one of the classic US folk ballads (dating back to the 19C) reworked by the heavenly voice of Robin Pecknold of the Seattle based Fleet Foxes. Perfect listening to accompany The Grapes of Wrath by John Stenbeck on your great American road trip.

Koh Samui or any other Thai Island: Pure Shores by All Saints & My Weakness by Moby
I'm sorry. There, the apology is out of the way, if you ignore the rest of their back catalogue what you have is a song that (thanks to Alex Garland) evokes the feeling of leaving the heat and chaos of Ko Sahn road behind for the bliss of a hidden beach on Kho Pha Ngan. If Pure Shores lays the ground then My Weakness by Moby is the track you'll be listening to as you sit back on the tiny verandah of your ramshackle beachside hut, sun slowly slipping below the horizon...

Australian Backpacking Jaunt: Down Under by Men at Work
Obvious maybe, but if you've backpacked the East Coast booze cruise (sorry travel route) then you are pretty much guaranteed to have yelled this at the top of your lungs whilst drunkenly caressing a bottle of VB. This song is an integral part of Australian culture, played loudly during the Sydney Olympics closing ceremony and also by John Bertrand's Australia 11 in their legendary defeat of the US establishment in the 1983 Americas Cup.

Southern Africa: Diamonds on the Sole of her Shoes by Paul Simon & Inkanyezi Nezazi by Ladysmith Black Mambazo
Anybody who has travelled to Africa will talk of the mysterious allure to this great content, beyond the sights, the sounds, the smells. There is something about the combination of the huge landscape, colours, cultures and animals that is simply vibrant. This incredibly addictive trait is most perfectly enconsed in its music and Paul Simon's Graceland is the perfect introduction. I can pretty much guarantee that listening to this song for the first time wil be the start of a love affair with Africa.

Northern Africa: Sabali by Amadou & Mariam
Beloved by the world music scene Amadou & Mariam are the superstars of African music. Hailing from Mali their music is everything that is great about the country which has an incredibly rich cultural and musical heritage.

South America: Me Gustas tu by Manu Chao
Pick up anything by Manu Chao and you'll instantly be transformed to travelling in South America. Chao was actually born in Paris to Spanish parents but the music is pure Latin America thanks to years spent travelling in the region. Their finest work (imho) Clandestino was recorded whilst Manu drifted around South and Central America with his guitar and a four-track. Whilst many other songs on this travelling playlist evoke the blissed out relaxed moments, Manu Chao shakes you out of your stupor and puts you in the mood to party! Next time you laugh at the backpacker lugging around a guitar, think twice.

Spain: Bamboleo by the Gipsy Kings
Ah the buzzing tapas bars, the heady late night culture and the joyful sounds of Bamboleo - you may not recognize the name, but you'll know it when it hits the chorus, 1.2.3 Bamboleo, Bambolea .......

The Amazon: Don't Trust the Dusty Fruit by The Ruby Suns and the Penan Tribe
We all have much to thank Bruce Parry for, he produces probably the finest travel television known to man-kind (in the form of his Tribes documentaries) and he also pulled together an album joining great modern artists with Amazon tribes. This is perhaps the best collaboration on the album.

The Border Town: Tijuana Lady by Gomez
Border towns are often dark and seedy places and Tijuan in Mexico is no exception. This much derided (and sung about) town is the haunt of drug mules, prostitution, and college kids from South California on a border bender to Mexico. In truth this song is probably a soundtrack to the morning after rather than the buzz the night before.

And finally, a song for when you have had too long on the road: Homelands by Nitin Sawhney
We all reach that point when we have simply had too long on the road. The sense of wonder becomes jaded, nesting in Ikea is actually beginning to appeal on some levels and you'd just like a nice bed and a bit of space to yourself. For me this song somehow evokes that sentiment, managing to incorporate incredible world music influences from tribal India yet not really feeling like it is from anywhere.

If I could only choose one of these fine artists to populate my travel Ipod I would have to choose Manu Chao. Perhaps because it is so upbeat, and perhaps because he has travelled so much himself and gets it - Who would you choose?

A Round-up of a year of blogging

Wed, 23 Jun 2010 10:36:00 +0100

Our blog is approaching a year in age, and it seems a suitably apt occasion to warrant a round-up of some of our favourite posts from the year, if you missed them the first time round then I hope you enjoy!

Zeke's Magical Mystery Tour or Why the web is ruining travel. Zeke travels to an unknown destination to figure out if it is better to travel without the copious reams of information available on the web.
Cheap Destinations for the travelling stomach. We all know about Rome, Paris, San Sebastian, but which destinations are best for the foody on a budget?
A mashup of GPS, photos and travelogue in our review of a Hebridean wildlife cruise. After a wonderful week spent hiking and cruising in the stunning Hebrides I set to put my Android phone equipped with GPS to test - here is the result.
Flickr is an incredible source of inspiring images, this year we featured three posts using this fantastic creative commons resource. Extraordinary ways to handle excess luggage, A photo guide to the Atlas Mountains and collection of stunning mountain imagery featuring fantastic hiking destinations.
Pretty much every traveller is on the search for a perfect beach, we decided to see if we could boil the essence of the perfect beach down to a mathematical formula.
The Inca Trail is probably the trek on the top of travellers must do lists. We take an honest look at how best to go about booking it.

Hope you enjoyed reading these posts as much as we enjoyed writing them.

Trekking the Inca Trail - Permits & Alternatives

Wed, 02 Jun 2010 13:49:00 +0100

The Inca Trail has to be the most iconic trek in the world encompassing dense sub-tropical vegetation, stunning mountain scenery and finally building towards the first glimpse of Machu Picchu through Intipunku, the Gateway of the Sun. Our guide to trekking the Inca Trail covers everything you need to know to begin planning your trip.

The Classic Inca Trail and the alternatives to the Inca Trail

If there are no Inca Trail permits available, or you would prefer to avoid the crowds, then there are a number of alternatives to the Inca Trail. None (except for the short Inca Trail) offer quite the same experience of Inca ruins and the spectacular approach to Machu Picchu via the Sun Gate, but are fantastic treks in their own right which include a day in Machu Picchu.

Classic Inca Trail: The Classic four day Inca Trail is top of most people's agendas. And whilst, yes it is busy, yes getting permits isn't all that easy, it is still the ultimate way to see Machu Picchu and the stunning surrounding scenery.

Short Inca Trail: A 2 day one night Inca Trail for those with less time or less inclination to trek for four days. This trek misses some of the best mountain scenery but does take in the spectacular approach to Machi Picchu. This trail is still subject to permits.

The Salkantay Trail from: The 5 day / 4n night Salkantay Trail was named one of the 25 best Treks in the Worlds by National Geographic Adventure Magazine. Salkantay (Salcantay) is an incredibly beautiful if sometimes demanding trek. After 3 days of trekking you are transported to Machu Picchu for a guided tour.

Lares Valley: The Lares trek takes you off the beaten path through beautiful valleys and traditional communities. The emphasis here is on exploring villages, visiting markets and seeing the locals produce wonderful hand-made textiles. After 3 days trekking you're transported to Machu Picchu for a guided tour.

> View our full range of Peru Holidays

Online calendar for Inca Trail Permits

Permits were introduced on the Inca Trail in between 2003 and 2005 to protect the trail against overcrowding and abuse. Permits are sold on a first come first served basis.

The Inca Trail is restricted to 500 people a day, this allows for around 300 staff (guides, porters etc.) and 200 trekkers. There are around 150 registered tour operators that have licenses to operate on the Inca Trail, and it is through these that all trekkers must make their arrangements. It is not possible to the trail independently, although it is theoretically possible (but difficult) to arrange your own qualified guide.

The Inca Trail regulations require all licensed tour operators to meet certain minimum standards that govern porter welfare and group sizes. There is a set minimum wage for porters and a maximum weight which they are allowed to carry (this is vetted at a checkpoint on the trail). The tour operators are required to use professional qualified guides, and provide emergency first aid, oxygen and radio equipment. Group sizes are limited to a maximum of 16 trekkers, with a maximum guide to trekker ratio of 1:8.

Availability of the Inca Trail permits is controlled by the Peruvian National Institute of Culture http://www.machupicchu.gob.pe/. Availability moves incredibly quickly so it is only really useful as an aid to planning. We will book the permits for you (you can not do it yourself through this website).

Go to http://www.machupicchu.gob.pe/ (note: the website is temperamental, if it doesn't work, try again later)
Select "Consultas" and and then the Camino Inka and month drop downs to view the permit availability for the month you are interested in
The number of remaining spaces will display. The maximum number is 500 and this includes the trekking guides and porters, so roughly half are available for travellers. Once availability drops below 300 the remaining spaces tend to go pretty quickly, so don't assume that just because there are 250 spaces left on your date that you have loads of time to book.

To find out whether there is avaiability on the Inca Trail, click on the month you would like to trek below. These pages are regularly updated so should reveal the exact number of permits available: The general rule of thumb is that permits sell out three months in advance. But in reality it depends on the time of year. During the high season from May to August you will need to be looking to book 5 months in advance to be sure of permits. During the shoulder months (April, October, November) you will need to book 2-3 months in advance, whilst in the off season it can be possible to secure permits even at the last minute if you are lucky (December, January, March)

Inca Trail Statistics

To give an idea of the typical profile of trekkers on the Inca Trail, the following snapshot shows the demographic breakdown of trekkers booked on the Inca Trail.

- 50.2% are male, 49.8% are female
- 19% are Argentineans, 12% US, 11% UK, 9% Australian, 8% Canadian and 8% French
- 78% are between the ages of 21-40, with the youngest under 10 and the oldest over 70

Tour the Movies

Fri, 21 May 2010 12:19:00 +0100

Everyone likes a good film. Box office figures for Love Actually suggest that loads of people like a bad film, too. But do you ever wonder where your favourite movies are shot? Apparently, I'm informed that directors other than George Lucas actually use real-world locations rather than CGI and green screen. Fancy that!

1. Robin Hood - England

Robin Hood is the film everyone’s ta… no wait, not that one.

That’s better. Robin Hood is an ingrained British legend and part of our cultural heritage, so the current film incarnation of our favourite green English hero is played by an Australian putting on some kind of strange Irish accent. Naturally.

The film was originally to be titled “Nottingham” before Ridley Scott decided to give it the more accurate title “Basically Gladiator in a Forest”, which was then switched again to “Robin Hood”. As an aside, the writers received a seven-figure payment for their script, which Ridley Scott completely rewrote anyway, which makes me wonder why I’m spending time writing this.

Putting the movie’s inherent flaws aside, we can’t deny the fact that it’s well-shot and England is portrayed marvellously throughout. The latest Robin Hood isn’t filmed anywhere near Nottingham of course, rather the countryside and forests spanning the home counties (with a fair chunk filmed in Wales). If we get anything from this instalment of Robin Hood, it’s a reminder that the British Isles is a profoundly beautiful place, and we kinda need that occasionally as we bitch and whine about politics and the weather.

You may need some kind of rocket horse to get around the countryside efficiently - at the end of the film, Robin Hood manages to ride from Sherwood via the Vale of the White Horse (well actually a mash up of the white horse and Dovedale) to Freshwater Bay in Wales (posing as Dover Beach) within two days. Even if he had access to Motorways, which I’m pretty sure he didn’t, that’s over 260 miles of hardcore riding.

2. Motorcycle Diaries - Peru

Che Guevara divides people pretty much down the middle. Either you think he was a freedom fighter and liberator of the oppressed, or you think he was a rhetoric-spewing dictator in his own right. I guess a third category exists for media students who don’t know who he is yet own t-shirts with his face on it.

Whichever way you slice it, The Motorcycle Diaries is a must-read travelogue and the film was pretty nifty, too - Machu Picchu features with prominence in both, leaving a profound impression on the young Guevara as he formulates his plans for revolution.

Whilst not everyone who visits this Incan site in all its glory is left wanting to stage a Marxist coup, its complex beauty is never lost on the multitude of travel junkies visiting it every year. Hiking the trail is bloody hard work (we’re talking steep climbs with all of your stuff on your back) but is more than worth it, to such an extent that it should be close to the top of any adventurer’s to-do list.

“Isn’t it a bit cliché?” I can hear you ask. Yes and no - yes, but for very good reason (it‘s phenomenal), and no because steps have been taken in recent years to protect it from becoming a cheesy tourist trap. Other than a few hundred years ago, now has never been a better time to visit Machu Picchu and possibly hatch a plot to overthrow the establishment while you‘re at it.

And would you look at that? We happen to offer the best Machu Picchu tour of them all, so click on over there to read more about this awesome World Heritage Site.

3. Braveheart - Scotland (kinda.)

“Frreeeeedooooom!” etc. etc.

Somewhat counter-intuitively, the majority of Braveheart was actually filmed in Ireland, particularly the exterior castle shots and battle scenes. This was mainly done to take advantage of Ireland’s tax breaks for filming, but all the gorgeous mountain scenery you see in the film is unmistakeably Scottish.

Notable Braveheart locations that I can pin-point in Scotland are the site of the set village where Wallace grows up, which is near the car park at the foot of Ben Nevis, and the mountain ridge he roams with his men while on the warpath (this is a spectacular, unbroken route connecting Loch Leven with Glen Nevis). The latter path covers ten mountains, and if you’re hardcore enough we reckon you could manage it in a day.

If it wasn’t for the perpetual lousy weather, Scotland’s beauty is pretty much on par with that of New Zealand and certainly has a bit more gravitas than the countryside in south UK. In saying that, it’s very easy to put the bad weather to one side and still have a great outdoorsy break - in a way the glens probably wouldn’t look right if it wasn’t tipping down (and the rain does stop eventually, otherwise how would the Scottish know that summer’s over? Ho ho.)

Personally, I love camping in Scotland in a tent which I may have constructed completely backwards but there is a multitude of independently owned, lovely B&Bs dotted around, usually owned by super-friendly couples who like to lavish you with hospitality.

As always, we have a hand-picked selection of Scottish holidays to help you take advantage of all the above covering a large range of activities and locations.

“FRREEEEEDOOOO…”

Okay enough of that.

4. Brokeback Mountain - The Canadian Rockies

Brokeback Mountain - a film that got everyone’s knickers in a twist, especially the knickers worn by dudes when their girlfriends weren’t around. These same dudes decided to throw a hissy fit when a mainstream film contained scenes of, shock horror, two guys going at it. Oh no!

The thing that irritates me about Brokeback Mountain is that the massive controversy created by it almost eclipsed the film itself. The acting prowess displayed by the late, great Heath Ledger and… er, Donnie Darko, or whatever that guy’s name is, was nothing short of brilliant.

The other thing about Brokeback which is manifestly brilliant is the cinematography. The story is set in Wyoming, but all filming was carried out in the Canadian Rockies - an obvious choice, given the sweeping and grandiose mountain panoramas. I mean, it’s just a classic example of how awe inspiring our planet can be, especially given its serene remoteness from modern civilisation. For the record I’m completely straight, but let’s just say if I was camping with Heath Ledger (he was a good looking guy, anyone can see that) in this kind of environment, the elements would probably fill me with so much love that I would probably… y’know, try it out. But only if he had that grungy look he had going on from “A Knight’s Tale”…

… Hang on, where the hell is this going? Jesus. Sorry.

Anyway, Brokeback Mountain is very closely based on a story by Annie Proulx, an extraordinary writer who has a gift for nailing individual characters, communities and their environments in one neat package and tied up in a succinct prose-bow. Brokeback Mountain is a killer example, but she also wrote The Shipping News… a phenomenal book and an okay-ish film, but the unheralded and desolate beauty of Newfoundland is captured in both.

You can delve behind the scenes of each world stage, since we have a multitude of Canadian Rockies tours and a hiking holiday in Newfoundland too (a personal favourite).

5) Avatar - Hunan, China

Wooooooaaaaaahhhh...

If I’d discovered this 3,544ft rock phenomenon in China, I’d probably be moved to make a multi-million fantasy epic too (I’d make sure the plot wasn’t as thin as tracing paper, though).

Looking like a CGI creation all on its own, the Southern Sky Column stands proudly in Zhangjiajie National Forest Park and became the basis for Pandora, the world portrayed in James Cameron’s drawn-out, eye candy yawn-a-thon. I mean, film.

Avatar is the biggest ever selling film in China, and as a result the National Park is doing roaring trade - so much so, authorities have renamed the massive Southern Sky Column to Avatar Hallelujah Mountain. The entire park is a jaw-dropping spectacle, so even without Avatar’s added publicity boost it’s little wonder why tourists flock to it in search for a taste of paradise. What’s more, you don’t have to wear silly glasses to see it in 3D.

Want to join the fight to save a race of indigenous blue people? Check out our featured tour of Pandora and/or China here. It actually covers the Tibetan Plateau rather than the Hunon region, but if cycling the otherworldly mountains of Tibet doesn’t impress you then maybe you should go watch Titanic again and come back when your standards are suitably lowered :P

Any great film locations you feel we should cover? Be sure to leave a comment and with your help we might be able to drag this topic out even further than we already have. Good times!

Zeke Iddon is a staff writer for Tourdust. He also writes for a load of other way less interesting people, but don't tell them he said that.

Luxury Camping & Glamping - Warts'n'all

Tue, 18 May 2010 10:23:00 +0100

Luxury camping hit the buzz-word happy travel press like a rushing pounding wave three years ago. Cue saccharine sweet write ups in the travel sections and D-list celebrities rushed out on freebies to give their half baked verdicts. At its peak the term glamping was coined and the movement had a name, a home, nay a bandwagon!

So once you peer past the soft focus photographs, overly-matey language, outsized fonts, faux birdsong and media hype is luxury camping actually any good? Is a family yurt holiday family-tastic or family-hell? Is a romantic luxury camping break amorous nirvana or simply smelly & cold? We've visited a selection of sites for our warts'n'all guide to what works in the world of luxury camping and what doesn't - and we've figured out what to look out for if you are planning your own luxury camping holiday.

1. The Best part: The tent is put up for you!

We once drove three hours to Norfolk on a Friday evening with two teeny toddlers in the back, only to struggle manfully with a supposedly easy-erect tent in fading light, in the end we gave up, and thoroughly embarrassed at our ineptitude, beat a hasty retreat back home. Unless you are camping regularly, putting a tent up and down is a hassle, and a significant cause of marital discord.

2. The 2nd best part: They have proper beds!

Ok, not all yurts have proper beds. Inexcusably some insist on only providing camping mats (why?) but a select few go the whole distance and provide four poster beds! As anybody who has struggled with a plastic foot pump for the best part of an hour to inflate a woefully uncomfortable air bed will know, good beds are worth spending money on.
The four poster bed at the Really Green Holiday Company yurt site on the Isle of White

3. The 3rd best part. Fire!

A philosopher might argue that fire, cultivation, food gathering and cooking are the four essential levelers that reduce all mankind to their base states, root us to our evolution and instill a calm on the most troubled of minds. Gathering wood, assembling a devilishly flammable structure, igniting it and then sitting back with satisfaction is deeply relaxing - the struggle to keep the flame going is genuinely addictive. Mercifully most luxury camp sites encourage the great art of fire, with outdoor fire-pits for each tipi, some even go the whole hog with both an outdoor and an indoor fire place!
Note: ok, I know I cheated with the firelighters.

4. The 4th best part: The architecture

At danger of coming across a little, well, Kevin Mcloud - yurts and tipis, each in their own way are incredibly uplifting and exotic architectural spaces. Tipis offer a smaller footprint, but the lofty vaulted space, lit from above is almost church like, whilst yurts have a cheerful spacious cosiness complimented by the central peak and latticed sides.

5. The Worst part: Family!

Everything about glamping is aligned for a perfect family camping holiday, no tent to erect, loads of outdoors, wood to gather, forests and streams to explore. However there is one great big hic-cup, you will be sleeping in the same room as your kids. What is doubly hard about this, is that yurts and tipis (and even geodesic domes) are well complimented with romantic feng shui, from the fire-place to the copious quantities of tea lights and sheep-skin rugs. So not only will you be tormented by the romance that might have been the night before you will also be awoken unseasonably early by the kids the next morning!
Oh, the romance, shame about the kids sleeping out of camera! This is a shot of the incredible interior of the out-of-this-world yurt at Eco Retreats in Wales.

6. The 2nd worst part: No en-suites!

Washing facilities in luxury camp sites range from shared toilet and shower blocks (akin to most normal camp sites) to 'en-suite' solar bucket showers and composting loos. Whichever way you skin it, nipping to the loo in the middle of the night isn't going to be pretty, and washing in the morning isn't going to be reminiscent of a stay at a boutique hotel.
The en-suite facilities at Eco Retreats yurt and tipi site in Wales, solar shower (not so good in October!) & excellent compost loo on the left, wash basin on the right.

7. The 3rd worst part: The cost!

A lot of people think camping and assume it will be a budget holiday, but prices are more akin to a quality B&B or mid-range cottage starting at around £200 for 2-3 nights for a couple all the way to £650 for a family for a week. There are ways to keep the cost down though. Families of 5 can often squeeze into one yurt, so even the high season cost of £600 odd when shared across the family is reasonable. Beware though most luxury camping sites tend to be booked solid for August. For couples, the price is much reduced if you go for a mid-week or weekend break in the off season (September is a great time) - and arguably the earlier nights are a perfect excuse for snuggling up around the fire with a warming bottle of wine.

8. The 4th (and least) worst part: Feeling like you are living in the pages of Waitrose Food Illustrated!

The world of food writers is full of late evening sun light, free-range local produce, 100% organic cotton, slow motion living, pastel colours and arran jumpers. It seems that this Waitrose Food Illustrated style has been borrowed wholesale by anybody writing about luxury camping holidays. Whilst this saccharine world is appealing at a base level maybe, in reality it can be a little bit smug and trying. Still, if you get past the advertising copy, all the people we have met who run luxury camp sites are nice people who are incredibly genuine about what they are doing. And after all, it is one thing to scoff at the glib writing of Waitrose Food Illustrated and another entirely to refuse an organic hamper or head massage.

The Conclusion

We thoroughly enjoyed our stays at glamping sites. We learned that no two sites are equal, ranging at one end from the cheaper option of a couple of yurts simply furnished in a small field with shared washing facilities all the way to the luxury option where yurts are scattered thinly through a large valley, granting privacy and space and furnished opulently with sheepskin rugs, dramatic fireplaces and welcoming head massages. Do your research, figure out exactly what beds are offered at each site, figure out whether there are fire places inside and outside. how much land are they set in, how closely spaced are they and above all, be flexible about your dates to get the best prices. You can compare our range of yurt and tipi holidays online or get in touch if you want some advice.

Le Marche Holiday Guide

Fri, 14 May 2010 09:36:00 +0100

Located in Central Italy, Le Marche is a relatively undiscovered region of Italy. With the Adriatic to the East and the Apennine mountains to the west, the area has plenty to offer the traveller looking to experience a different side of Italy.

Culture

Urbino, the region's capital, is a walled city situated on the side of a hill and its historic centre is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. A beautiful city, with some great examples of renaissance architecture, its highlights include seeing the impressive Ducal Palace - home to Duke Federico da Montefeltro - a propagator of the renaissance movement in the 15th Century. If renaissance art is your thing, you'll be in heaven here, with a national gallery to explore, as well as the chance to visit Raphael's house - he was born in the city in 1483. There is also a stunning cathedral to visit as well. When you've had your fill of culture, there are some lovely piazza to sit in and enjoy a cappuccino and a good dose of people spotting.

The Roman town of Fano, on the East coast, is a fascinating town to visit for history buffs. The arch at the gateway to the town was built by Caesar Augustus in 2 AD. Despite being heavily bombed in WWII, the town retains many of it historic highlights including the Palazo Martinozzi, the Cathedral

Loreto, a pilgrimage destination, lays claim to housing Mary's original home which was brought brick by brick from Bethlehem back in 1294. For those interested in Christian history, it is now housed in the Basillica della Santa Casa.

The hills in Le Marche's countryside are dotted with charming hilltop medieval towns such as San Ginesio and Urbania which are set around lovely town squares- the perfect place to sit and enjoy a gelato.

Beaches

Le Marche has 180km of coastline. Admittedly, Italy's beaches haven't always had the best reputation, with concerns about cleanliness and over-crowding. However, the region of Le Marche can lay claim to having the greatest number of blue flag beaches in the country. That said, they do become very busy from mid July to the 3rd week in August, so you might want to avoid these times if you can.

The beaches are, for the most part, sandy, with resorts in the main towns of Pesaro, Senigallia and San Benadetto. These resorts tend to have cafes and sun loungers on the beach to rent. You usually have to pay for access to the beach at these resorts, unless you go to a public beach, which can be grottier. If you have a car, and like a quieter beach, then you could head to the Portonovo area, where you have the choice of resorts and also Mezzavalle beach which is both free and a lot quieter than the resort beaches. You will, however, have to walk about a kilometre through a forest to reach it.

Hiking

If hiking is your thing, then you can't go wrong with Monti Sibillini National Park - part of the Appennine Mountains - on the Le Marche / Umbria border. Meadows full of wild flowers and some astounding peaks and wildlife. There are trails suitable for hikers and mountain bikers alike. There are several visitor centres in the region, which make a good base for planning your route. The pretty town of Amandola is a good base to explore the park from if you plan to take day hikes and then want a town with a choice of restaurants to return to.

Food & Drink

It would, quite frankly, be very wring to talk about this region of Italy without mentioning food or drink. The cooking traditions in the region have their routes in 'cucina povera' or peasant's cooking. Living off the land, using locally sourced ingredients. And why not? With the Adriatic sea providing mullet, cuttlefish and squid, Brodetto, 'fish stew' is a favourite local dish. Away from the coast, minced pork and mushrooms are mixed with tomatoes and bechamel sauce to create Vincisgrassi - a regional variation of the traditional Lasagne. Rabbit, veal and game birds are also often found on the menus. Le Marche is probably most famous for its truffles - which locals grate and sprinkle on top of their dishes. These delicacies are some of the most sought after in the world and thrive in Le Marche's valleys. Many of the towns enjoy festivals to celebrate the 'tartufo' - October is a good time to visit the region to go truffle hunting - head to Sant'Angelo in Vado.

The local grape grown in Le Marche is Verdicchio and is one of Italy's most famous whites. The local reds are not as well known as the whites on a global basis, but don't take that as ani indication of a lack of quality. Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno are definitely worth a try while you're there.

For some more ideas of holidays in Italy, check out our collection of Tuscany & Le Marche Holidays

Photo Credits; Urbino Photo cL0d Verdicchio Vineyard lucaboldrini69 Sibillini National Park pizzodisevo Mezzavalle Beach Kermit965

Photo Essay: 12 Astonishingly Beautiful Mountain Treks

Wed, 12 May 2010 12:00:00 +0100

This is a stunning photo from the Cordillera Huayhuash mountain range in the Andes of Peru. Trekking in Peru is so much more than just the Inca Trail to Macchu Picchu. The Cordillera Huayhash surrounds you with a lush landscape of glacial valleys and lakes circled by the towering Andes peaks. (Picture from Flickr user Andras Jancsik)

This was taken on the Camino de Santiago which is the ancient pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in the heart of the Pyrenees Mountains. Whether it be the Gregorian chants in hidden-away monasteries or even hunting the elusive Holy Grail that entices you, walking the Camino de Santiago is a must on any serious trekkers shortlist.(Picture from Flickr user Jule Berlin)

Nestled above the birch and spruce forests of Denali State Park, Mount McKinley in Alaska is the highest peak in North America and also boasts some stunning views. Mountain treks in Alaska takes you through upland lakes and tumbling creeks, across talus-covered slopes and over rocky ridges. (Picture from Flickr user Giant Ginkgo)

The Khuiten Peak in Mongolia combines eternal snow-capped peaks with deep gorges through which foaming streams dash down. The snow covered peaks soar into the cloudless sky and the frozen glaciers glitter in the sun's rays offering some amazing views in largely undiscovered country.

This mountain is situated in Lofoten, northern Norway as well as offering stunning views of the snow topped peaks surrounded by the think conifer forests it also boasts the northern lights in the backdrop! (Picture from Flickr user nb_harstad)

The surreal picture showcases the Haleakal volcano on the island of Maui, Hawaii. With its other worldly appearance Haleakal offers the chance to trek around one of the world’s largest dormant volcano and explore its cinder cones and lava flows in the desolate basin. (Picture from Flickr user Simond)

This beautiful picture was taken from Llyn y Dywarchen above Rhyd Ddu in Snowdonia. Offering Heather-quilted hills, craggy rocks and sloping pastures dotted with sheep, Snowdonia presents plenty of beautiful landscapes and sights to explore on your doorstep. (Picture from Flickr user Richard0)

On the border between Chile and Argentina lies Patagonia, a sprawling space that harbours mountains, glaciers, lakes and rivers within its clutches. Sprouting from within its midst is Mount Fitz Roy, which dominates the backdrop offering some awe inspiring mountain treks. (Picture from Flickr user Stuck in customs)

These beautiful canyons lie in southwest Montenegro and is characterised by its extreme untouched natural beauty. With flowing rivers and tree covered slopes throughout the whole region it has a system of rivers and deep canyons unlike any other in the world. (Picture from Flickr user shchukin)

This amazing picture was taken in Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina. In the background is Cerro Torre surrounded by spectacular glaciers and still crystal waters, with the whole area covered in a blue aura. (Picture from Flickr user Stuck in customs)

In Glacier national park, Montana sits Mount Grinnel, surrounded by glaciers, several hundred lakes and around 200 waterfalls it offers a mountain trekkers' dream with around a million acres of pristine landscape to explore and inspire. (Picture from Flickr user Stuck in customs)

Matterhorn is a mountain in the Pennine Alps on the border between Switzerland and Italy. It boasts being one of the largest peaks in the Alps, and this brilliant photo captures the majestic mountain in all its glory surrounded by the beautiful blue waters of the lake.(Picture from Flickr user Wagman 30)

Is this the ultimate rafting trip?

Wed, 28 Apr 2010 20:48:00 +0100

You'd be hard pressed to find adventures that push quite so far into the wilderness as rafting trips do whilst remaining thoroughly accessible to us mere mortals. The River Siang in India's Eastern Himalayas plays host to just 100 paddlers a year and we think this has to be the ultimate rafting trip.

Think of this as the antithesis of a day's white water rafting with a bunch of corporate groups and stag dos - this rafting trip pushes deep into the river for days, camping at river side beaches and paddling intermittently between wild rapids and graceful calm sections of the river. The remote Arunachal Pradesh region has only recently been opened to foreigners and the award winning River India takes an extremely responsible approach to rafting this epic white water. Recognized by National Geographic, Outside Magazine and our own Geotourism Awards, River India deliver an adventure with a conscience. The trip starts just on the border with Tibet and sweeps past tribal villages, dense jungle and hilltop tea plantations for 11 days of incredible adventure. There are only four trips each year around the turn of the year, book online or if you'd like to find out more about the trip check out River India's Facebook page.

Incense & Street Food: A Perfect Holiday in Vietnam

Wed, 28 Apr 2010 09:42:00 +0100

I’m not sure what it was about my holiday in Vietnam that totally captured my heart. True, this is a country with some seriously big hitting highlights; The imposing fortress at Hue, the quaint and charming Hoi an, the fascinating Cu Chi tunnels and, of course, two boat trips not to be missed - a Halong Bay junk cruise to admire the limestone rock formations in the north and, at the south of the country, a boat trip on the Mekong Delta.

Stepping back from this list of obvious highlights, it is the subtle charms of Vietnam that really left a deep impression on me. The seductive scent of incense burning, the smoke billowing in the air. The sight of water buffalo working in the fields, white birds perched on their backs. This, juxtaposed with an implausible amount of mopeds, and good food at every corner, from upmarket restaurants to plastic chairs at the side of the road forming a makeshift bar where home brewed beer can be enjoyed.

But probably the best thing about travelling in Vietnam, is that you really don’t have to go far off the beaten track before you find your own slice of Vietnam heaven. Tourists tend to congregate around the main sites and back packers stick to their end of town (never the twain shall meet…) so it’s actually quite easy to get away from other Westerners without having to be a hardcore intrepid travelling type!

So, here are some of my favourite memories from my holiday in Vietnam where we managed to get an off the beaten track experience, whilst remaining on the beaten track!

Sapa – An easy overnight rain ride to this beautiful hill town, near to China’s border in north east Vietnam. Home to local hill tribes, lush terraces, colourful markets and a slightly cooler climate, it is a welcome respite to a weary traveller. Don’t be misled, there are tourists here, but the people who come don’t tend to be the in your face travellers – they are all looking to soak up the more laid back atmosphere. You have the option of staying in a homestay or in a hotel to suit any budget. You can then get out trekking in the countryside. It is possible to get away from everyone else and not see another soul. We went off without a guide and got hopelessly lost, we survived to tell the tale, but, in retrospect, a guided trek might have been a good idea.

Mui Ne – Nha Trang is a popular beach destination in South Vietnam. The upmarket tourists enjoy the beach resorts serving sandwiches and chips, whilst the backpackers head out on boat trips and then float in rubber rings swigging beer and dodgy cocktails. This was not really my favourite place in the world. Head south and you reach the quieter Mui Ne. Other travellers present? Of course. There are smarter hotels and bamboo huts here, as well as mid range bungalows. The key to this place is its vibe. The sandy beach has that classic laid back South East Asian atmosphere, relaxed and chilled out. The more active can enjoy watersports or slide on plastic sledges at the local sand dunes, others can read, stare at the horizon or pretend to write deep thoughts in their travel journal. Food options vary from chilled out cafes serving food right next to the beach and more upmarket options serving wine. Our most memorable meal was eating at a local café followed by several beers and teaching the owners the words to Ronan Keating’s hits.

Hue – this is a stop on pretty much every visitor’s itinerary on their holiday in Vietnam and rightly so. The impressive fortress, partially destroyed in the war, serves as a reminder both of Vietnam’s troubled past and also the resilience of the people. From Hue, most people are offered the option of a cruise on the Perfume River. Higher end tourists will probably enjoy a sunset dinner cruise, whilst backpackers will pile into a boat in a flock of at least 10 and will then motor noisily (and slightly obnoxiously) past the former. We decided to get a boat all to ourselves, which was the best decision we could have possible made. We kicked back and watched the scenery pass by and then stopped off along the way to visit the Thien Mu Pagoda and the royal tombs. There were other tourists at the sites we stopped off at, but the chance to go at our own pace with friendly hosts made the trip all the sweeter.

Ho Chi MInh City -the city formerly know as Saigon is, for many, the starting point for a tour of this country. If you find yourself here, don't just confine yourself to the backpacking area or the key sites. Get yourself onto a moped (travel insurance recommended) and head down to one of the restaurants serving a traditional Vietnamese hotpot or barbecue. On your table will be a mini barbecue and you will be presented with raw food to cook. A great fun experience. There was a real mix of local families out for a meal together and only a couple of other tourists around as well, but most importantly, the food was delicious!

Hanoi - I couldn't write a blog post about Vietnam without mentioning my all time favourite city, Hanoi. Before you ask, yes we too went to the water puppet show and we went to visit 'uncle Ho' in his mausoleum. We are not immune to tourist sites! What I loved the most about Hanoi was the intriguing streets to wander round - they have their fair share of tourist shops, but you still get to experience the buzz of a city which comes alive at night. Sitting on a street corner, balanced precariously on a plastic stool whilst mopeds whizzed by and enjoying some home brewed beer... heaven.

For some more ideas of places to go in Vietnam, check out our collection of independent Vietnam tours.

Photo Credits; Main Photo Lucas Jans Mui Ne Photo marfis75 Vietnamese BBQ Photo Thomaswanhoff

Trekking in Morocco - in pictures

Thu, 22 Apr 2010 14:29:00 +0100

Morocco is an incredible trekking destination boasting rich and unique culture, traditional Berber villages, soaring arid peaks and surprisingly verdant valleys. We've pulled together a collection of the most striking creative commons images of the Atlas Mountains and Rif Valley. Enjoy!

Toubkal in the High Atlas is perhaps the most accessible from Marrakesh. Trekking in Morocco tends to start out from Imlil, a charming Berber village. Toubkal is the highest peak in North Africa and makes for a challenging trek but the effort is justified by stunning views of the Atlas Mountains and Sahara Desert from the summit. Photo by Flickr user kassarar.

Toubkal by Flickr user Omer Simkha

Berber village near Toubkal by Flickr user Jean-Baptiste Bellet

Imlil is the starting off point for most going trekking in Morocco, Toubkal and the Atlas Mountains. By Flickr user Jean-Baptiste Bellet.

M'goun Massif

The M'goun Massif is the off-the-beaten-path alternative to the Toubkal region. Verdant valleys and stunning ancient Berber villages dominate the trekking on oh so quiet trails. Photo by Flickr user Ryan Kilpatrick

M'goun Massif by Flickr user Ryan Kilpatrick

The Ourika Valley

The Ourika Valley is rich with greenery and attractive villages and is completely at odds with Sahara like preconceptions of trekking in Morocco. Located just 30km from Marracesh, it is a refreshing destination when the City boils in summer. Image by Flickr user Bryce Edwards

Berber Village in the Ourika Valley by Flickr user Bryce Edwards

The Dades Valley

The Dades Valley is reminiscent of Colorado and America's wild west. The Dades river marks a lush trail through the semi-desert region surrounded by wild shaped rock formations. Photo by Flickr user Punxutawneyphil.

Berber Villages

A highlight of trekking in Morocco is the colour vibrancy of the local people and Berber villages. Photo by Flickr user JohnRawlinson

Chef-Chaouen situated in the Rif Mountains is a striking contrast of blindingly white walls, striking blue doors and simple architecture set between mountains and water. Photo by flickr user rhurtubia

Chef-Chaouen by Flickr user rhurtubia

Erg Chebbi Dunes

The Erg Chebbi dunes are the highest in dunes in Morocco set amidst a vast flat plateau. The dunes give travellers a taste of the Sahara and are just about reachable from Marrakesh. Camel trekking is popular. Photo by Flickr user amerune

Camp at the Erg Chebbi dunes by Flickr user amerune

Volcano disruption: Discount for UK holidays

Mon, 19 Apr 2010 13:48:00 +0100

With the massive disruption caused by the ash cloud, we are all having to deal with a world without flights, albeit temporarily. For people at a loose end having had their holiday plans thrown into disarray for the coming month, we are now offering 10% off stays in our five luxury yurt and tipi sites in England and Wales* in May.

Open wood fires and stunning settings have made glamping sites particularly fashionable of late. And with prices from £175 per yurt for a four night stay, they are more than affordable. Finding a yurt on a bank holiday weekend is nigh on impossible, but there is plenty of space during the rest of May. With the weather looking to stay fine for the time being, act soon as we expect availability to fill up quickly.

And if you are looking further ahead but don't want you holiday to be at the mercy of the ash clouds, we have come up with a selection of some of our favourite short haul holidays. They are all just a little adventurous, reasonably priced and easily reachable by train, bus or car.

Enjoy a week's holiday spent walking inn to inn along Hadrian's Wall from £435 per person. It is all booked up in April but if you are planning a holiday for later in the year you won't have a problem.
Explore the coastline and wildlife of the Hebrides on a small boat cruise or by sea kayak. Prices from £475 per person. The sea kayaking trip is available departing June 13th, July 4th, July 25th and various dates in August and September. The wildlife cruise is available departing 29th April and various dates during the summer.
For those looking for a little adventure with and great food, how about a week combining cooking classes, a relaxing spa and surf lessons on the French Atlantic Coast? Prices from E515 per person.

* To claim the discount on yurt and tipis stays, all you need to do is email us within 24 hours of booking through Tourdust (via our website or customer services) quoting "Tourdust-ash-offer". We will apply the 10% discount to your balance payment. Bookings must be made online on http://www.tourdust.com or through our customer services (0203 291 2907) by 26 April 2010 for Travel between 19 April 2010 and 31st May 2010.

What can ‘local travel’ learn from responsible travel’s chequered past

Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:20:00 +0100

‘Local travel’ describes what many independent travellers have known for years - get off the beaten track, choose local, choose small and invariably you will choose well. But will the new ‘Local Travel’ Movement survive and prosper?

The concept of ethically responsible travel (deeply interwoven with local travel) has been around for many years now. Yet it is clouded in myth, misinterpretation, misunderstanding and tarnished reputations. It has failed to go mainstream in anywhere near the same way as fair-trade tea and organic bananas have done in our local supermarkets. It seems responsible travel means different things to different people and is misunderstood by most. The problem has been partly caused by the media who over-simplify the issue, partly by companies who piggy back the movement without proper attention to standards and in the main due to a lack of international kite-marks by which consumers can easily judge operations.

As a result we have a situation where companies throw around terms like eco tours and ecolodge and community tourism initiative without ever being held up to real scrutiny – A lot is very much for show (including the hastily typed responsible travel policy). So as consumers, instead of being able to rely confidently on labels such as organic or fair trade, we have to to consider our own choices and make our own minds up, for instance:

Just because it is green we can’t assume it is good. A composting toilet doesn’t guarantee that the owners are paying fair wages to local staff.
Just because it isn’t green doesn’t mean it isn’t ethical. The social impact of travel is independent of the environmental impacts of travel and focussing on one is better than focussing on neither.
Volunteering isn’t always ‘good’. Short volunteering stays can sometimes do more harm than good.
The same principles of independent judgement must be applied to ‘local travel’. Small, local and independent doesn’t guarantee quality nor does it guarantee ethics. There are many successful large international organisations offering thoroughly locally-rooted travel experiences that are better for the customer and better for the local community than the local alternatives.

The point is, travel is an experience without any hard and fast rules and not an easily defined physical product. In the absence of a common global standard (don’t hold your breath) travellers need to make their own judgements and companies need to do their best to make improvements.

Any companies that make efforts to provide or promote local travel or ethical or green travel experiences should be applauded. The net effect in most cases will be good, more operators will behave responsibly and more customers will choose responsibly. But there is a worrying danger when those same companies market their product or website as ‘responsible’ or ‘green’ or ‘eco’ or ‘local’ without thoroughly and fairly assessing themselves against these labels – it simply undermines the whole movement.

We live in a complex multi-coloured world where white-washing, green-washing and blacklisting only serve to simplify a matter to banality. As a travel company, we should agree to treat the issue with respect, acknowledge the complexities of the issue and avoid the temptation to simplify for the sake of a good marketing slogan.

Travelling without a destination

Wed, 07 Apr 2010 19:56:00 +0100

Last week I wrote about Zeke's Ryannair mystery tour in a post titled The web is ruining Travel. Exploiting a unique quirk in the Ryannair website, he booked a flight not knowing where he was heading, thereby avoiding the information glut that the web provides. He managed to offend entire nations, confuse border guards and make a general fool of himself. In the follow up video, Zeke unveils the mystery destination, struggles to find a room, and sadly ends up craving a good session on the internet - but you'll have to watch it yourself to find out where he went.

In case you missed it, the first video can be watched in the original post

10 Breathtaking Kayaking Destinations

Fri, 02 Apr 2010 13:23:00 +0100

The tortured winding coastlines beloved of sea kayakers also happen to be some of the most beautiful places in the world with breathtaking vistas, dramatic wildlife and spades of wilderness. This set of simply breathtaking sea kayaking and canoeing photos from our collection of sea kayaking holidays are simply breathtaking.

1. The Twin Lakes, Alaska

The Twin Lakes are set in the heart of Lake Clark National Park, where turquoise lakes nestle beneath vast cirques of rock and ice and bears, caribou and Dall sheep wander the tundra.

2.Johnstone Straight, Canada

Johnstone Strait is an approximately 70-mile long expanse of water cut into Vancouver as a result of glacial activity millions of years ago, and is a physically beautiful place to explore. The channel is unique in its standing as the best place in the world to observe orcas (killer whales). 250 salmon-eating "northern resident" orcas congregate in Johnstone Strait each July through Sept to feast on salmon runs.

3. Baja, Mexico

The Gulf of California (popularly known as the Sea of Cortez) was formed five million years ago as the result of tectonic activity, separating the Baja Peninsula from the mainland of Mexico. What is left today is a haven for marine and coastal life. Species found in the area include the gray, blue, fin and humpback whales.

4. The Broken Group Islands

There are over one hundred small islands in the Broken Group which can only be reached by boat, and, of course, sea kayak. This is a favoured site for kayaking since it is sheltered enough for beginners and offers unobstructed access to the Pacific for experts.

5. Milos, Greece

A Mamma Mia-like setting of turquoise blue seas, matching skies and pale golden sands taking in places like Tria Pigadia – a secluded beach with a natural spring, the Grandfather Cave – one of Milos’ biggest caves, and the beach at the old sulphur mine.

6. Bowron Lakes, Canada

Dramatic mountainous provincial park in British Columbia with a 116 km canoe circuit through the Cariboo Mountains.

7. Milford Sound, New Zealand

Milford Sound is a massive fjord formed over millions of years of glacial activity. It is the biggest tourist attraction in New Zealand, offering unequalled beauty, the scale and majesty of which sets it aside from anywhere else on the planet. The mountains are huge and lush with vegetation, waterfalls cascade hundreds of metres down vertical cliff faces and the seas coursing through the valleys are as clear as anywhere else on Earth.

8. Argyll & The Hebrides, Scotland

The West Coast of Scotland is home to a myriad of sea lochs, inlets and islands dotted amongst an achingly beautiful highlands panorama and it is hard to think of a better way of exploring the area than in a sea kayak.

9. The Amazon, Ecuador

The Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve in North East Ecuador is a protected area of Amazonian tropical rainforest. The reserve is a complex of rivers, lagoons and floated forest characterised by intense biodiversity and navigable waterways. The area encompasses 604,000 hectares of primary rainforest and boasts river dolphin, tapirs, caimans, anacondas, ocelot and piranha as well as 515 species of bird.

10. The Selinda Spillway, Botswana

The Selinda Spillway carves a path through the heart of this epic nature reserve. The area is home to about 300 species of birds, so there’s ample chance you’ll spot many on the four days you’ll be out here. But it’s not just birds that flock here. Because no hunting has taken place here since 2004, bigger creatures like elephants, buffalo and sable antelope are also often spotted.

The web is ruining travel

Thu, 01 Apr 2010 11:36:00 +0100

There are 918 travel blogs on Technorati and hundreds of travel forums and social networking sites. There is a bewildering level of choice and information and it is spoiling the joy of independent travel.

The traditional vision of a fresh faced traveller waving goodbye at the airport gate with little more than an outbound ticket and a well thumbed guide book seem to be gone. Instead, after weeks spent poring over the excellent Matador Network and the exhaustive Lonely Planet Thorntree, they'll arrive at the airport porting a hybrid backpack stuffed with netbook, adapters and iphone. By the time they step of the plane in Calcutta they will have read up on the hassle they can expect from all and sundry in the streets and will have adopted the trademark aloof backpacker body language - "I know what I'm doing, don't try to take me for a ride!" - there is no way will they be falling foul of the hawkers! And in doing so, they miss something, they miss making their own mistakes and discovering with fresh eyes.

Surely, the joy of travel is serendipity, spontaneity and in saying yes to every offer however bizarre? Surely, it is about saying 'why not?' when a local claiming to be a university professor offers to guide you around the local museum. Yes I know, there are some fantastic resources that will inspire you to go places you would never have dreamed of, and others which will help you really get off the beaten track, but at what cost? Surely you can achieve the same by speaking to somebody on the road and asking a local?

I have to ask myself, would we have been escorted up Sigiriya in Sri Lanka by three policeman and then treated to a traditional Muslim family meal back at the Police Chief's modest home if I had followed Tripadvisor's things to do in Kandy. Similarly, would I have been asked by a couple of young Malay women to provide male company when they bought their daily fish supplies from the intimidating commercial fishing boats in the Pehrentians?

So, in our own crass unscientific way we decided to put our money where our mouth is. Zeke, a regular Tourdust writer, came up with a little experiment:

"Did you know you can book a flight on Ryannair without knowing which country you are visiting?"

Well, I didn't, but apparently it is true (I haven't checked), all he had to go by was an airport code with an unhealthy quantity of rarely used consonants. So before I could question his logic, Zeke had booked himself a ticket. Without knowing the destination it is tricky to buy a guidebook or to check out hotels on Tripadvisor.

The first part of Zeke's amusing journey is documented below - I've watched the video and still don't know the destination. Let me know if you can guess, because Zeke continues to refuse to let me in on the secret. He will be gracing these pages in the next week with the second part of the video.

If this subject interests you there have been some fascinating posts and discussions on the general theme of staying connected on the road. Rolf Potts opened a beehive by critiquing the use of twitter when travelling, Stephen Chapman wrote an excellent piece about travelling unplugged and perhaps my favourite, a recent post by David Page wondering whether we are seeing the twilight of the guidebook? If you enjoyed Zeke's video and you want to see more of his frankly unusual sense of humour I recommend you check out his sites, http://www.tittybiscuits.com/ and http://www.smashingworkshop.com/.

The formula for a perfect beach holiday

Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:34:00 +0000

What do beach breaks conjure up for you? Hideous package holidays, towering apartment blocks and disturbingly familiar foods on the Costa Del Sol or exclusive beaches, prohibitive prices, raked sand and swaying palm trees disturbed only by city boys braying on their mobile phones?

In the words of the immortal Gavin and Stacey, to be honest with you, neither are really our cup of tea. But today, we are going to let you in on the secret formula to beach perfection. 'Beach perfection' is indisputably a factor of (1) Out-of-the-way-ness, (2) Un-exclusivity, (3) doped out travellers, (4) pitch angle of beach, (5) hawkers, (6) temperature and (7) mortality. Let me expand:

F(Out-of-the-way-ness): The harder it is to get to, the better. If it involves three hours on the back of a pick up truck on a rutted dusty jungle road then the signs are good.

F(Un-exclusivity): Exclusive beach resorts are hideous inventions that close the traveller off from the local people, economy and vibrant culture. What you are looking for here are a few local restaurant options and an interesting little village to go and explore.

F(Doped out travellers): Too many travellers slurping magic mushroom shakes, furiously calculating during their brief moments of lucidity exactly how many weeks their bag of weed is going to last them means one thing - this beach was once a gem, but the druggy traveller brigade has moved in. Avoid.

F(Pitch angle of sea-bed): Don't ask, I had to remember sohcahtoa to work this one out. Ok, so here is the math, you want to get to 2m of depth for 15m of wading. Any greater and you start risking waves (no good for floating on your back). Any less and you will be wading out for half an hour before you can swim.

F(Hawkers): This factor is extremely sensitive to fluctuations above 1 hawker per 100 square meters per hour. Beach hawkers serve a useful function in providing fresh pineapple, cool drinks and massages. However to be disturbed from your well thumbed copy of The Art of War more than once per hour is disastrous.

F(Temperature): Ah, a complex formula involving the average daily temperature, the average fluctuation in temperatures and the difference between air and sea temperatures. Do not dispute this formula, it is fact.

F(Mortality): In its first incarnation the formula omitted this factor, intelligent travellers applied their own mathematical genius and journeyed like lemmings to Port Douglas beach in Australia. Unfortunately a combination of a killer rip tides, estuarine crocodiles, deadly jellyfish, sharks and falling coconuts wiped out a whole generation of travellers. So be warned, taking mathematical formulas at face value without an appropriate degree of scepticism can be severely damaging to your health.

For those wishing to apply the formula to find their own beach nirvana, the detailed calculation is as follows:

F(Out-of-the-way-ness): Must be GREATER THAN 2hrs from nearest paved road
F(Un-exclusivity): Must be EQUAL TO 0 exclusive resorts and GREATER THAN 3 local restaurants per beach.
F(doped out travellers): Must be LESS THAN 3 dpb (dope heads per beach)
F(pitch angle of beach): Must be EQUAL TO 7.6 degrees(from the horizontal)
F(hawkers): Must be EQUAL TO 1 hawker pch (per 100m2 of beach per hour)
F(temperature) Average daily celsius MINUS standard deviation of daily celsius MINUS Air to sea temperature differential must be GREATER THAN 20°
F(mortality): Must be LESS THAN 1 dpa (death per annum)

Unfortunately we can't show any examples of beach nirvana because if we did it would create a circular reference in the formula by adversely affecting the un-exclusivity and probably countless other factors too. Given this unfortunate absence of proof, we would like to pitch the following as examples of thoroughly good beach holidays you should consider for your holiday this year:

The hidden gem that is the Andaman Islands - Remote, hard to reach and boasting “Beach no. 7”, which, despite the prosaic name, has been repeatedly voted one of the best beaches in the world. To truthfully describe any tropical island as “unspoiled” is becoming increasingly difficult, but Havelock Island is one of the few still worthy of that epithet.

Eco beach lodges in Mozambique - Named by the Observer newspaper as one of the top 20 deserted beaches in the world. (Well The Observer got that one wrong because it isn't deserted, if it was how would you be staying on it?) Anyway, logical conundrums aside, Mozambique is the up and coming alternative beach destination. There are a number of beach lodges boasting hammocks, ethical roots, reasonable prices and a chilled out vibe and this is one of the best.

A beach on a very special lake? OK this fails the un-exclusivity factor as there is only space for 14 guests. But Mumbo on Lake Malawi is special. Perfectly located for combining with a little safari in Liwonde National Park or some blissed out kayaking and camping around the islands.

Blatant product push over, do you dare dispute the formula?

Images courtesy of Flickr User quinn.anya and bbjee

Peak District navigation course - A detailed review

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 09:53:00 +0000

As someone who makes a living largely out of walking and cycling, usually accompanied by a map or two, I was initially concerned that I wouldn’t get very much out of this course. I confess that I lose my way from time to time and occasionally get myself completely lost, but I’d rather assumed that that was just part of being outdoors.

Apparently not. Indeed, as soon as I met Pete I had a feeling that here was someone who knew things that it would be useful to know. It turns out he’s been teaching navigation skills for over twenty years and has written a popular book on the subject so you’d be hard pressed to find someone better qualified in the dark arts of not getting lost. He’s also very friendly and patient and ready to re-explain anything that doesn’t go in first time, which is definitely a bonus.

The weekend National Navigation Awards Scheme course (Friday evening to Sunday afternoon) is based at the B&B that Pete runs with his partner Annette in Tideswell, an attractive village full of proper Peak District stone and independent shops and well worth a wander around. The three bedrooms (two doubles and a single) are on the small side but are very tastefully furnished (think boutique rather than Blackpool) and, if you really must, there’s wifi too. I sampled the veggie version of Annette’s full Derbyshire breakfast – the Derbyshire bit being a good wedge of oatcake – and it was delicious. The ingredients are locally sourced and the bread and jam are homemade.

As for the course itself, Pete is very thorough and makes sure that you’re au fait with map and compass basics before moving you along to more challenging stuff. By giving little tasks to carry out at each stage, everyone gets a chance to put all the new knowledge into practice.

I was surprised that right from the start I was picking up handy tips. For instance, I had no idea how many paces I took to cover 100m until Pete made me count them out over a measured distance (if you’re taking notes, I’m a 116-stride kinda guy). Now if I find myself in a pea-souper and I know from my map the distance to a left turn (or, hey, a cliff edge), I’ll know when to start looking out for it by counting my steps. Simple stuff but it might be the difference between getting home safely or not one day.

When we took to the hills (and this is a fantastic part of the Peak District – all dry stone walls and heather and rugged little hamlets) the compass really came into its own. I never realised before what a clever little instrument it is (or that a really decent one will set you back a thumping seventy quid). If you thought it was just for pointing north, think again. Pete even had me looking through the side of it (there’s a tiny world in there – it’s great) for super accurate bearing taking.

However, it’s not all stomping around the countryside glued to a map while checking the compass. When our route took us past the gorgeous Red Lion Inn at Litten it was Pete who suggested we pop in for a pint. Evening sessions are held in the convivial surroundings of The Anchor in Tideswell by an open fire and there’s some free time too when you can get to know fellow participants or escape to one of the village’s other pubs or restaurants.

Pete’s apparently limitless local knowledge also really helps you get to know and appreciate the area. In between the times when I was finding out the difference between grid north and true north I also learnt that a pig of lead found at Pompeii was mined by the Romans here; discovered the reason why there are so few birds of prey in the Peak District; and even discussed the best bands to have come out of Sheffield (Human League? Pulp? Arctic Monkeys? Err...Def Leppard?).

It meant that by the time I left I felt like I’d had a brief holiday here as well as a training course. I’m not going to claim that I’ll never get lost again but, if I do, at least I’ll have a pretty good idea how to get myself unlost.

The best bits about the Bronze Map and Compass Course:

Pete himself. He’s very friendly and wants you to succeed but isn’t at all controlling – he’ll step back and let you make your own mistakes.
The fantastic scenery in this part of the Peak District – it makes it a joy to be out and about. You leave knowing you’ve picked up a skill that will be really handy for the rest of your life.

The worst bits about the Bronze Map and Compass Course:

The unpredictability of the weather – when it rains out on the hills there’s no hiding place.
Tideswell isn’t the easiest place in the world to get to by public transport.

Creative commons photo courtesy of Flickr user the yes man

Eco Retreats Review in Detail

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:27:00 +0000

Deep in a hidden part of the forest in Powys, Wales, lies the beautiful and ever so slightly magical yurt and tipi site of Eco Retreats. To call this place a campsite is a bit like calling a glass of Champagne grape juice, it is so much more! Yes, it is camping to the extent that all that separates you from the very clear skies above you is some canvas. However, with futons, luxurious bedding and a well equipped kitchen, this is a romantic, tranquil experience with all the fun of camping and none of the wet socks and communal toilet blocks. And with no other houses for 2 miles, you are totally off the grid. No mobiles, no wifi, no tv. Heaven.

To access the site, you need to pass through the small Welsh town of Machynlleth. A charming place, complete with its own modern art museum, it feels like a haven for bohemian types, especially with the Centre for Alternative Technology, just on the edge of town. Sadly we were in no position to linger and explore the cafes here, as we had three children in the back of the car who were starting to grizzle. Leaving the town, the last one for miles (so the instructions to stock up on the way are well worth heeding!) we headed up into the forest. Our instructions from hosts Michael and Cha Nan were very detailed and I’m slightly embarrassed to admit that in a rather gung ho manner, I decided that we were making fine progress, so just sat and enjoyed the view, rather than looking at their map. Minutes later we (may) have missed a turning and I was contemplating admitting that we might be a little lost, when we picked up some signs to follow. We drove along an unsealed road for quite a while and then turned the corner, the trees cleared and we same the most beautiful view I think I’ve ever seen. A lush grass valley, surrounded by trees, with a slight glint of white in the clearing. A tipi; my first! Getting excited now and with the children desperate to get our of the car, there wasn’t much time to meditate on the view. A quick drive down the hill and we finally arrived at our destination. Met by Michael, our extremely charming host, we were taken to our accommodation. There are, in total, 5 tipis and 1 yurt on the site. Tipis can sleep up to 4 people, but with 5 of us in tow we were sleeping in the yurt. Having seen the majestic tipis from a distance, I was slightly disappointed, as they looked wonderful. However, the minute I set my eyes on the yurt my feelings changed instantly!

The tipis and yurt are dotted around the valley ensuring 100% privacy. The yurt is the farthest down the valley, with the tips set higher up the hill. Eco Retreats tries to be as green as possible, so once you reach the entrance to the site, you leave your car and complete your journey by foot. After 2 hours in the car, we were more than happy to leave it and jumped out with gay abandon. Stiletto wearers beware. You need to walk to your accommodation and carry your bags with you. It is a bit of a hike, but oh so worth it. Sadly, as the Colcloughs are a bit of a travelling circus, we had a serious amount of baggage with us, meaning lots of to-ing and fro-ing to the car. Thankfully Michael helped us to lug our things, but I would suggest you keep your baggage to a minimum!

The yurt is a magical structure. Situated just above a bubbling stream, you won’t see anyone else for miles. Outside is a campfire and some logs to sit on. Wannabee cavemen and women, this is the place for you. A log pile, complete with axe awaits you, as well as an invite to gather your kindling from the forest. And to top it off, inside the yurt is a wood burning stove, so fire starters can have a dual fire lighting frenzy. Which is where we leave Ben. Meanwhile, the children and I explored the yurt. The inside is plush and rustic all at the same time. The bed is a futon, but is draped with luxurious bedding. On the floor are organic sheepskin rugs, perfect for cosying down in front of the (magnificent) wood-burning stove. Cooking wise, there is a small gas stove inside, with all cooking utensils provided and a fridge box with freezer packs ready for your fresh ingredients. They have thought of everything here, with complimentary hot chocolate and a welcome hamper complete with locally produced organic mead wine.

As we were the only people staying on the site, we donned our wellies and after a mandatory paddle in the river, set off to check out the tipis. Smaller that the yurt, the structures are made in the traditional Native American style. They are equipped with a cooker, utensils, chiminea and futon bed, with campfires outside as well. Like the yurt, they are all situated in entirely private sites. They also all have their own composting toilets and freshwater showers. These are solar heated, although not much chance of a hot one in October!

Back in the yurt and we tucked three very excited children into bed. Night time is when this place becomes seriously magical. There is no electricity here, so the entire yurt is lit up by tea lights in lanterns. This is not a place for hair straighteners and disco lights, but a place for romance and peaceful contemplation. Guests here usually have an evening meditation session and then in the morning, they can have a private Reiki healing session. Given that we had our children with us, we regretfully declined both. And this is where I have but one criticism of the place. It is child friendly and you are more than welcome to bring your offspring, but I’m not sure you’ll want to. Take the children camping in the garden, then leave them with their Grandparents and treat yourself to a weekend without TV, mobile phones and embrace your wellies and your romantic side.

El Monte Lodge review in detail

Mon, 15 Mar 2010 20:29:00 +0000

We visited El Monte Lodge in the Mindo cloud forest as a transitional stop between a Galapagos cruise and a stay in an Amazon Jungle lodge. So we felt that the likelihood of it being a bit of an anticlimax was quite high. In reality, it was an unforgettable stay.

The bedroom lodge at El Monte

Most stays in the cloud forest include pick up from Quito and the drive is enlivened as you pass the middle of the world at latitude 0°. This geographical landmark is honoured by a monument and a very small quirky museum that is just a little naff but great fun nevertheless.

The cloud forest itself is stunning. You can almost hear the trees breathing as the clouds float through the forest canopy. Orchids, birds, butterflies, waterfalls - the air is damp and the sound of running streams is everywhere – all impossibly romantic!

Cloud forest

El Monte cloud forest lodge stands in its own grounds on the outskirts of Mindo. Our accommodation was in one of several private, thatched lodges which stand only a few yards from the river marking the boundary of the estate. The only access to the lodge across the river was by a small platform attached to a pulley.

Food was delicious, prepared on site using vegetables grown in the lodge garden. Meals were served in the Central Lodge, which was very comfortably furnished with rustic easy chairs, a small library and board games.

The bedroom lodges were very comfortable - basically furnished with en-suite facilities. There is no electricity and lighting is provided by kerosene lamps, so if you want to read at night (or check for creepy-crawlies sleeping in your shoes) then I’d recommend you bring a torch. This might make staying here a bit challenging if you have very young children, as indeed would the closeness of the rather fast-running river. However, older children would love the gently adventurous feel to the place and the chance to roam around the grounds or take a dip in the small swimming pool.

Mindo itself is a busy little town with restaurants and cafes, local shops and lots of opportunities to trek in the forest, try a bit of horseback riding, stop off at an orchid garden, or even go tubing in the river – an area which is predominantly about experiencing the great outdoors in a unique setting.

This brings us, finally, to the birds. If you are going to Ecuador you probably know that it has a huge variety of birds and butterflies and the cloud forest is a great place to see them. The lodge arranged a guide who took us out on two mornings before breakfast and pointed out loads of them – each one more colourful and exotic than the last. Being only an occasional birdwatcher rather than a true twitcher, I confess to yearning for a cup of coffee long before we had exhausted all the birdlife, but even I was thrilled by sight of a quetzal and a toucan. And the sight of a sky-blue butterfly flying through the forest, weaving its way through the orchids was more than enough to make me forget my caffeine deprivation.

And then it was back to the hub of Quito (about 3 hours drive) before the next part of the adventure – our stay in a cloud forest lodge was less sensational than the Galapagos cruise, certainly, but it really should figure on everyone’s ‘must do’ list.

The entrance to El Monte cloud forest lodge

Seven great travel blogs about England

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 14:25:00 +0000

England is where we call home, so we could be forgiven for being a little biased. The sun may not always shine here, but there are dozens of bustling cities surrounded by acres of magnificent scenery and a wealth of activities for any weather. We have compiled seven great independent blogs to inspire your next trip in England.

An alternative view of London: Londondailyphoto showcases an eclectic range of pictures taken from around the Captial that you will not find in any tour guides, the perfect way to see another side of the city.

What to do when you're in Blighty: From first time visitors to locals wanting to explore somewhere new, Europealacarte provides lots of hints, tips and reviews to make the most out of what England has to offer.

How to do the world's most expensive city on a budget: Things To Do In London provides a short and snappy list of 10 things to do for under £10 in the nations capital.

When in Leeds: Mylifeinleeds is a really exhaustive guide to events and places to visit in the city of Leeds. The thing that makes the site so special is that it is all written by locals.

Where to go walking: If you are an avid rambler or just enjoy the occasional walk in the countryside Walking Britain has literally thousands of free detailed walks from around the country, with plenty of advice on maps, books and places to stay.

The life of a travelling Londoner: The Itinerant Londoner is filled with tales and adventures from exotic locations around the world, but has a large selection dedicated to England. Geoff provides a fun and intriguing read of the life of a 'Londoner'.

A foodies guide to England: Whether you are a connoisseur of culinary excellence or just do not fancy another McDonalds Cheese and Biscuits is for you. This is a wonderfully written food blog that provides an intriguing guide to eateries around the country. Highly recommended!

Less a blog, the travel directory is a superbly exhaustive directory of specialist travel companies serving travellers to England and those wishing to escape England!

Cheap destinations for the travelling stomach

Thu, 04 Mar 2010 19:00:00 +0000

Without doubt, my most memorable travelling moments have involved food - tucking into steaming broths in a bustling Asian night market, eating fresh seafood on a moonlit beach or tucking into a large bone of mutton on the Mongolian steppe. Food is arguably the most evocative and memorable feature of travelling.

Ignoring the obvious gourmet foody meccas of New York, San Sebastian, Paris and Rome as this isn’t about eating at Michelin starred restaurants, which destinations can serve up a balanced diet of fantastic food in buzzing restaurants day-in-day-out at a modest price to suit the traveller’s budget?

Some destinations renowned for their great food are nigh on useless for the purposes of a travelling stomach. Take Spain for instance. It hosts a fascinating tapas and pinxtos food culture and some of the best restaurants in the world. However, food in low and mid-range Spanish restaurants is often incredibly oily, devoid of any evidence of vegetation and served at ridiculously late in the night.

The best destinations offer abundant restaurants whose food reflects the countries honest home-cooking rather than a refined and separate restaurant culture. Not surprisingly, SE Asia dominates my top three. Eating out is so cheap there you can enjoy three meals a day for months on end without diminishing your travel budget and the cheaper you go the better it gets, a bustling night market always beats a high end restaurant.

1. Vietnam (street food = $0.5pp; local restaurants = $2pp; 1 beer = $0.60)

Vietnamese food has lots going for it, a very long coastline, French, Chinese and Vietnamese influences. The result is an incredible cuisine at an incredibly modest price. Everyone knows about the delicious spicy beef noodle soup Pho, but there is theatre too with the ever popular table-top bbq joints that are rammed to the rafters every night in Ho Chi Minh. Then there are the French influences, yes good wine is available as are French bistros, but seriously, skip the wine. Eat at a buzzing market, follow up with a divine dark chocolate sorbet from an ice cream parlour (Fannys in Hanoi is the best) and then head down to a street corner bia-hoi joint for some seriously cheap and fresh beer surrounded by the insane Vietnamese traffic. The Vietnamese people are crazy about their food, an ever lasting memory I have of our time there was seeing the locals head down en-masse to the beach at low tide to dig up the delicious clams to be found under the wet sand.

2. Thailand (street food = $0.50pp, local restaurant food = $3pp, 1 beer = $0.90)

It isn’t always easy finding a good restaurant in Thailand, but you can’t go wrong with the abundant street food. A steaming hot bowl of chicken noodle soup can be picked up for a modest price and is both delicious and nutritious. The night markets are without doubt the culinary highlight of Thailand, bustling, aromatic, cheap and delicious. The greatest challenge is not filling yourself up with your first dish as there will be others you absolutely have to try. The ubiquitous Thai Green curry and Pad Thai deserve a mention and they do always seem enhanced when served up with a tall bottle of Chang to share at a romantic beach-side table. (Thanks to Flickr user avlxyz for the image)

3. Malaysia (street food = $1, local restaurant food = $2, 1 beer = $2)

The beauty of Malaysian food is the variety. Chinese, Malay, Indian and Nyonya influences are at play, and offer real variety. For everyday eating it is hard to beat a plate of Hainanese chicken rice, delicately steamed chicken served on top of the best rice you will ever taste and accompanied by a small bowl of chicken soup. That may not involve a huge dose of vegetables but you can always top up with fruit later. Nyonya cuisine is amongst the finest in the world, but unfortunately it can be hard to find in restaurants. Malaysia hosts fantastic food markets too and a visit isn't complete without a Roti Canai with dal. Roti Canai is a delicious flat bread similar to an Indian roti and is usually served with a spicy lentil dal. (Thanks to Flickr user avlxyz for the image)

4. South Africa (street food = na, local restaurant food = $6, 1 beer = $1.50)

Few would think of South Africa as a destination for great food, but the combination of modest prices and abundant red meat, fruit, vegetables and decent wine is a winner. Cosmopolitan South Africa boasts a similar passion for fine wining and dining as Australia and New Zealand, but wins hands down for its low prices and the ever present braai, where the humble bbq is raised to a true art form. Eating out is incredibly accessible, even with loud kids in tow – but unlike the Asian destinations mentioned above you will definitely want to plan to cook in some nights, if only to see if you can emulate some of the braai tricks of your hosts! (Thanks to Flickr user victoriapeckham for the image)

5. China (street food = $1.50, local restaurant food = $3.50, 1 beer = $1.00)

It is hard to sum up such a vastly varied cuisine as China's so I’ll leave you with some of my favourite meals. A cup full of potato wedges cooked on an open fire and dipped in the most divine and intensely hot spice rub you could ever imagine in Zhongdian. Piling up the plates of shaved beef and noodles around a boiling broth in a Beijing shopping mall. Selecting our meat of choice from cages of live snakes, chicken and ducks. Soaking rolled up balls of stale bread in a mutton broth in a backstreet Muslim restaurant. Eating cubes of solid pig fat that tasted as close to heaven as I have ever come. And finally a 20 course dumpling banquet in Xian! Even the depressing sign of backpacker exposure was ever present – the dreaded banana pancake!

And finally, the disappointments...

Mexico was perhaps my biggest culinary disappointment. It probably reflects a failure on my part to get under the skin of the cuisine, but honestly I’d take Tex-Mex over real Mexican food any time. I found many meals under flavoured, too sweet or swamped in sauce. Admittedly street food was good, but not always that accessible. New Zealand also disappointed, but for an altogether different reason – a lack of diversity. And finally who could make an argument for Russia? I'm not averse to a little stodgy Northern European food from time to time, but I have absolutely no memories of what I eat in Russia and that is telling!

5 extraordinary ways to handle excess baggage

Wed, 24 Feb 2010 11:20:00 +0000

A highlight of travelling in parts of Asia and Africa is the astounding ingenuity applied to transport. Our record is three people plus bags on a moped, which is lame in comparison to the efforts of locals:

Bike of Burden in Vietnam

This is one of my favourite photographs. Not only has the guy managed to get all these boxes on the back of this bike but has also then had the courage to join the cargo. Why hasn't the whole thing tipped backwards. (Picture from Flickr user graemenewcomb)

Holy Cow

In Vietnam it's quite a regular sight to see livestock being transported this way, but it still amazes me each time I set eyes on this photo that; one the cow is alive and two that its on the back of a motorbike with a couple of passengers. (Picture from Flickr user desheboard)

And you thought re-cycling was hard?

It's not unusual to see overloaded vehicles in China, but you have to admit that this attempt is impressive. Not only has it caught the eye of the photographer but has even drawn the gaze of fellow passersby. (Picture from Trekearth user Andre Holdrinet)

Tuk Tuk tours

Tuk Tuks have built a reputation as a bit of a backpacker cliche, but they clearly still have a functional use. This one in particular catches the eye as not only is overloaded with passengers, but it is trying to perform a balancing act with 9 rubber rings on the roof. Any guesses to how many times the driver had to stop and reload? (Picture from Flickr user recoverling)

Extreme Buckaroo!

This picture is another classic, the guy driving has managed to get 7 kids on the bike, but they also seem to be enjoying it from the smile on the young girls face. (Picture from www.roadsafety.co.za)

Reading list for your next Scottish Holiday

Tue, 16 Feb 2010 14:58:00 +0000

When the mile-thick ice sheets finally retreated from the north of Britain at the end of the Pleistocene epoch, they left in their wake a topography gnarled, fissured and pockmarked by violent glaciation. The result is some of the wildest country in Europe; mountain massifs, rift valleys, riven volcanoes and crinkle-cut islands are just some of the extraordinary features of the Scottish landscape.

Unsurprising, then, that the country has become something of a mecca for adventure travel enthusiasts, with every imaginable pursuit on offer. So whether you surf or ski, sail or kayak, hike or bike, a Scottish holiday is bound to have something special for you.

Here are 5 fantastic resources to inform, inspire and plan your next holiday in Scotland.

Photography to inspire. Scotland in the gloaming is a beautiful blog showcasing the best photography of Scotland bathed in that colourful ambience that comes at dusk.

A guide to your ramblings. Trailblazer publish fantastically well researched guide books. We used one ourselves when we travelled on the Trans-Mongolian rail route. In Scotland, they offer a hillwalking guide to the Scottish Highlands. If you are happy to scour the web for your route guide then check out Walk Highlands a fantastic and exhaustive guide to walking in Scotland.

A must have transport timetable. Calmac operate the famous lifeline of the Islands with their extensive ferries throughout the Hebrides and Clyde. Grab a car, a good map and a Calmac timetable and explore the islands at your own leisure.

The one film to watch. OK, Scotland has featured in many great films and picking one is a tricky task. I'd have to recommend Local Hero, for its warm funny storyline and superb cinematography of the Scottish Isles.

Get under the skin of Scottish culture. Pining for the West is a blog very much written from the heart, featuring Scottish recipes, reviews of Scottish literature and tales of travelling throughout Scotland. Highly recommended!

Travel around the world like a grown up

Fri, 12 Feb 2010 11:32:00 +0000

Last night was the launch party for an exciting new project, Grantourismo. Grantourismo is a collaboration between the hugely successful Homeaway.co.uk vacation rental stable and vastly experienced travel writers Lara Dunston & Terence Carter. Lara and Terence get to travel the world for 12 months, staying in 24 vacation rental properties - and will be blogging their experience along the way.

It is not your typical way to travel the world, staying in luxury riverside penthouses in London but hey, we don’t all have to slum it in hostels. So for the grown up traveler, what is the best way to travel the world whilst avoiding the yoof backpacking party crowd? I’m thinking of young professionals on a career break or the retired baby boomer traveler.

Plan a well balanced diet of unplanned wandering, organized activities and longer stays in one place.
Traveller fatigue tends to settle in after 6 - 12 weeks on the road, you know it has hit when amazing sights bring only jaded cynicism, touts are brushed off with a well practiced withering stare and you start looking forward to nesting at Ikea. This is the time to settle in somewhere for a month or two, take it slowly and live like a local.
Plan at least one treat and one adventure in each country you visit.
The problem with traveling for long periods is that you start getting wallet fatigue. A whole year of one-way wallet traffic and before you know it you are visiting Xian and refusing to pay the entrance fee for the Terracotta Warriors! The answer is to plan a treat and an adventure in each county in advance. For the treat, book yourself into a boutique hotel, plough through the huge breakfast, watch a film in your room and splash out on a really good meal. For the adventure, it doesn't have to be some kind of adrenaline kick, more something which gets you out of your comfort zone. Do your research, find a really good local guide for a mini expedition (at least three days) and do something you couldn’t do under your own steam. I can guarantee, these trips will be what you remember from your travels in 5 years time.
Stay in other people's homes
Lara and Terry are staying in holiday rental properties. They will have an awesome base wherever they visit, somewhere to look forward to returning to each day. My only worry is how much opportunity they will have to meet other travellers. A possibly better option would be to opt for house swaps. Imagine planning a year of house swaps, going wherever the next swap comes from. With house swaps you really get to know a place. When we swapped houses last summer, we virtually stepped into our swapees lives for 6 weeks, jumped into their dinner party roster and had a ball. It is a great option if you've got kids too, our kids loved playing with someone else's toy collection! (So if a house swap company wanted to sponsor family Colclough for a year’s house swap travelling then please get in touch:-).
Take your own home with you
Camper-vans are the obvious choice, or if you want to look a bit more rugged, a Land Rover with a roof top tent is perfect for an overland journey. The big problem with this has to be the fuel costs and this is where yachts come in. For the price of a good overland vehicle set up, you could easily cast out on the oceans with a second hand 30 footer. Rig yourself up with a decent set of sails and a wind-generator and you have a wallet friendly option that is also just about the most carbon conscious way to travel. The Pacific Islands, Thailand, Venuezuela and Australasia are all reachable. There is an incredible fraternity between fellow round the world sailors and you'll be well away from the usual banana pancake hotspots.
Work for your keep
One of my biggest regrets from my own travels is not working on an organic farm, you’re keep is covered, and some hard yakka is definitely good for the soul, especially after years spent slave to a computer screen. Alternatively pick up a passion-skill before you travel. I didn’t fancy doing some dead end job, so secured my RYA sailing instructor badges beforehand. Whilst others were demonstrating irons in a suburban department store, I was teaching sailing in Syndey harbour for a couple of months.

We are incredibly jealous of Lara and Terry and wish them a wonderful journey, you can follow it at grantourismo.

Tourdust features one of a kind adventures, expeditions and encounters with the best specialist local guides. We’d love to help you plan the adventures that will make your travels memorable.

You can read more about grantourismo on Heather's blog Heather on her travels.

Hebridean Island cruise review

Thu, 04 Feb 2010 20:56:00 +0000

Raucous laughter greeted the farewell brunch aboard the Hjalmar Bjorge. The rain was seeping from the sky and Oban was doing its best to display all the shades of grey imaginable. After four nights aboard, and copious amounts of fine food the brunch (including haggis, three types of sausage, bacon and black pudding) was the perfect riposte from chef Mark following our plaintive complaints of too much fine food.

A Hebridean Island cruise brings with it expectations of wildlife and stunning scenery, but it was the unexpected that proved the highlight. I thought we would be spending most of our time aboard, but there was loads of time to fit in some of the best walking I’ve done all year (on Rhum and Canna Islands). The aforementioned food was easily the superior of any upmarket chalet I’ve stayed at in the Alps and the tales of island life and small community gossip shared over dinner gave a real insight into the peculiar ways of the Islands. Admittedly I’m in the business of hyperbole, but bringing all these elements together this must be one of the best walking and wildlife holidays available in the UK.

A typical day would involve a hearty breakfast at around eight-ish, before we set out to sea. After a couple of hours of cruising (with loads of opportunity for wildlife spotting or just musing over the seascape) we would reach our destination for the rest of the day. We’d have (you’ve guessed it, a hearty) lunch before being dropped ashore to explore on our own. Skipper, Mark, always has some suggestions on hand, just don’t trust his walk lengths, which are usually based on his own running time rather than the loping gait of your average hiker. Back at the boat there would be a freshly baked cake and tea waiting, which would quickly blend into a sundowner and dinner. Meals were all taken communally in the saloon area which is snug for the maximum of 12 guests but spacious when there were only seven of us on-board.

As is typical of so many holidays we feature on Tourdust, repeat customers are a big feature. On board, the majority had been at least once before and the cruise was an annual fixture for them. This is always a good sign, and I must admit I departed with a strong urge to return for a trip out to the wild outpost of St Kilda one day. Ages onboard ranged widely but it was never a handicap to the conversation onboard and didn’t get in the way of being as active or inactive as you like.

If I had to criticise anything about our Hebridean Island cruise (and the Scottish weather doesn’t count) the bunks in the cabin were a little snug for my 6ft 1” frame and the mattresses were perfunctory at best. To be fair though, this is a small ship, and if you want luxury cabins then you have two choices really, (1) build a fortune to buy your own yacht or (2) go on a ghastly cruise liner. There were three toilets / showers on board and they were always spotless. I’ve spent a fair amount of time on yachts of different shapes and sizes and the Hjalmar Bjorge is a superb ship with great space below decks.

We got away lightly, but the seas in this part of the world can get a little hairy at times and you won’t find a better ship for the purpose, the Hjalmar Bjorge is an ex-Norwegian rescue ship built to withstand the harsh seas of the Arctic. Similarly, the skipper Mark is an ex-para built to withstand both the harsh jibes of his guests and the worst the seas round here can throw at him. Seasickness is a distinct possibility in these seas. Only one succumbed on our journey, but it didn’t seem to ruin his enjoyment of the cruise. Ultimately the journeys at sea are only a small part of the time you’ll spend aboard.

The Islands themselves blew me away (literally and metaphorically). I enjoyed a superb hike up on the hills of Rhum, where I didn’t see another person, just deer, sheep and birds. Canna in particular was a real gem, less hilly than its neighbours, it is easily explored, has some beautiful beaches and fascinating historic buildings and relics. Part of the joy of exploring the islands is in trying to comprehend how people live in such isolation. Whilst their population has receded dramatically, many hardy soles still hang on, with only the regular Calmac ferry connecting them to the mainland. I like a bit of wilderness but I’m not sure I could live out there. Still the stories and gossip that bounced around at dinner time about the latest happenings on each island really helped get a feel for the place.

I’ll be back one day, and I’d recommend anyone with a passion for walking and hiking to visit this beautiful outpost. Read more or book a Hebridean cruise here.

Try our new travel inspiration quiz

Wed, 03 Feb 2010 11:29:00 +0000

Where to go next? At some stage or other we all find ourselves looking for a little inspiration. So, we have built a fun quiz to get you started with some ideas.

The premise is that travel is all about the senses. The sights, the sounds, the smells, the tactile elements and of course the tastes. Close your eyes and picture Thailand - immediately, the spicy fresh taste of a steaming bowl of green curry springs to mind (as do some rather repugnant smells from the sewers!)

Give the quiz a whirl and let us know what you think. We've called it The 5 senses of travel quiz, wisely choosing to ignore the ongoing debate about the inclusion of nociception (pain), equilibrioception (balance), proprioception & kinaesthesia (joint motion and acceleration), sense of time, thermoception (temperature differences) and magnetoception (direction).

And for all those out there who have resented being pigeon-holed into a personality type (after all who gave Marie Claire the right to label us all commitment phobes on the basis of 10 hastily constructed questions?), we will happily provide a personalised travel recommendation - just follow the sign-posts at the end of the quiz.

Round-up of our 12 websites of Christmas

Wed, 23 Dec 2009 10:26:00 +0000

The time has come to wrap up our 12 websites of Christmas series. The final three recommendations are all alternative travel blogs that tend to write about 'local' or 'authentic' travel:

Spottedbylocals.com: Take the juiciest scraps of information from The Lonely Planet and Time Out, strip out all the noise and you have spottedbylocals. This is a network of bloggers who pick out their favourite places in their home city. The London collection includes over 100 tips. As a Londoner myself, I wouldn't go so far as to say they are picking out the latest underground hits. Rather the collection consists of tried and trusted favourites that most Londoners would know about but few visitors would have the good fortune to stumble upon. I'd wholeheartedly recommend checking out spottedbylocals next time you are heading to a major city and you are looking for somewhere 'local' to eat.

Goinglocaltravel.com: A passionate personal blog from travel writer Vicky Baker about travelling 'locally', which to all extents and purposes is the pursuit of meeting local people when you travel. Her blogs covers couchsurfing (staying in locals homes for free), accommodation networks (paying to stay in locals' homes) and the freeconomy (not paying for anything at all :-)

Intelligent travel blog: Finally, the grand-daddy of them all, The National Geographic. There are more NG blogs than you can shake a stick at, but this is my favourite. With a focus on culture, authentic and sustainable travel and the incredibly slick multimedia content, this is hard to beat. Yes, The NG has a bit of a US bias, but look past that and enjoy the writing. Generally it is more of a news style blog, but there are thought provoking pieces too.

So to recap the whole list, in no particular order of merit except to say they are all fantastic. Merry Christmas everyone.

View other posts in this series: The best online travel agents, The best travel blogs, Travel inspiration sites.

OTAs - 12 websites of Christmas

Tue, 22 Dec 2009 21:12:00 +0000

Continuing our 12 travel websites of Christmas series, here are our favourite online accommodation booking sites. These three fantastic sites all give access to a world of interesting, characterful accommodation - rather than the usual medley of dull corporate hotels.

I-escape: The site is beginning to look a little dated, but look past the surface and you have without doubt the best collection of small character accommodation online. Yes they have the usual boutique hotels that so many web-sites are chasing after nowadays, but the exciting products are the charming small inns, villas and guesthouses. This means there are actually character properties on the site that you can afford, even without a banker's bonus in the pocket. The killer feature is that every property has been reviewed in person by one of their writers - this is no small feat, and means that the descriptions of each hotel are hugely comprehensive. The actual booking process is a clever system, which although not quite immediate, does allow you to buy online. I hear through the grapevine that a new site and full online booking is in the offing which will make this 'the' site for booking character accommodation.

Airbnb lists accommodation offered by locals. At its best, you can stay in a flash city centre flat for $50 per night. The site has a lovely clean design and decent content momentum. At the moment, there are 150 properties listed for London. The big question is, will it make it? Will the public grab the idea and run with it? If airbnb can get to decent coverage levels then it will be a hugely exciting traveller resource. My greatest concern is that the interesting listings (someone else’s apartment) get swamped by B&Bs and holiday rentals (rather like what has happened on ebay). If you are thinking of using airbnb then check out this Washinton Post article which has a good guide. The always excellent goinglocaltravel also has a round up of the alternatives.

Hostelworld & Hostelbookers: For better or worst, pre-booking hostels is a growing trend. Just 5 years ago, when we were last backpacking with abandon (cue misty eyes), only the silent few used them. Instead, we lived on our wits, checking out the various dives to find that one gem. Nowadays though, everyone seems to use Hostelworld or Hostelbookers to book their hostel online. The biggest drawback of this whole pre-booking malarkey is that it is now harder to travel as the mood takes you, because anywhere any good will always be full. On the other hand it does make hostels far more accessible - now we have kids I’d never dream of just turning up in town, bags flying everywhere, 3 little kids in disarray as we try to find a hostel. We‘ve used both these sites recently to book some fantastic family rooms in hostels in the UK and abroad.

In the last of the series (phew....) I'll look at my favourite alternative travel blogs.

Travel inspiration, 12 websites of Christmas

Thu, 17 Dec 2009 13:00:00 +0000

In the second part of our 12 websites of Christmas we are looking at travel inspiration sites. I'm stepping past the blank sheet of paper stage and am assuming you have some idea of where you would like to go and what kind of thing you like doing. (If you are genuinely at a loss and have no ideas for your next trip then try this excellent travel quiz from 101 holidays, or alternatively stop spending so much time working and start day-dreaming more.)

My first choice would have to be the faithful old Lonely Planet. Yes it is an obvious choice, yes I have to admit impartiality as a part owner (like many in the UK, I am a long standing contributor to the BBC license fee!) but no matter how often I stray from the LP it always pulls me back in the end. Rare amongst the printed guidebook world the LP has done a reasonable job of getting all that content online in a relatively usable format. I love the latest redesign. The drop-down maps in particular are a master-stroke (even if they are a little too 'landscape' for optimum usability) and the breadcrumb navigation is plush too. Just select your destination and immediately you get a fairly authoritative run-down of the top picks for the country and a gorgeous full width map with loads of flagged content. You just can't beat it as your first port of call when figuring out what to do where. The Thorntree is a superb resource too. Now if only they could get rid of all those blasted adverts.... (although hold-on a second there, if they did that the license fee would go up I suppose).

Second and third are two choices which I must admit are again slightly impartial (but honest choices nevertheless), 101 holidays and world reviewer.

If Lonely Planet is the go-to destination guide, then for me World Reviewer is the go-to activity guide. You name a travel activity from walking to rafting, and World Reviewer has written about pretty much everywhere that is good to do it! The layout is clean and the navigation simple. A lot of the content is written by 'experts' which usually means local adventure operators and the like. But it is done in a fair manner and these guys and girls do tend to know what they are talking about probably more than any other. My only criticism would be that there is a lot of linking within the text, which can make it hard to read at times.

Finally 101holidays. An oddball choice, given it is a much smaller site - but it is the simplicity I like. The two travel journalists behind the scenes have a few airmiles between them and these holidays are their pick. It is the simplicity that makes this site (and its sister site 101shortbreaks) work. Navigate by images, and read a short overview. The key, of course, with any of these things is the quality of the selection and you can't fault 101holidays on this front with some solid favourites and inspired alternative ideas. As I mentioned, they have a fairly nifty travel quiz to give you some ideas for your next break. A great feature is the travel writer recommendations. So what? you might say, there is loads of that in the press. Well generally the press only ever features new or slightly eccentric places to stay whilst these are some great tips from experienced travellers on their favourite places to stay regardless of how trendy or new it is. Unfortunately, I can't heap all this praise without a little light criticism to balance it out - it would be nice to see longer write-ups or even first hand reviews of each of the holiday ideas featured.

Keep an eye out for part three which will feature our favourite three travel booking sites.

Best travel blogs, 12 websites of Christmas

Tue, 15 Dec 2009 09:44:00 +0000

Christmas is fast approaching and its a perfect excuse to share our favourite online travel sites. In the spirit of the 12 days of Christmas, we have our 12 travel websites of Christmas. In the first of four posts we start with what we think are the best travel blogs.

There are a whole lot of travel blogs out there and its hard making a selection that is anything less than a personal judgement. Travel blogs are a strange concept, keeping up with an inspirational travel blog week in week out whilst anchored firmly to an office would only drive us mad with envy. I've chosen these because they are a little provocative and get you thinking. It isn't a coincidence that these are all written by experienced journalists and travel writers.

Benji's Blog: Benji is just 25, yet has somehow managed to notch up writing for The Guardian, The New York Times and have several TV appearances under his belt (thanks in no small part to his perfectly timed twit-trips just as the whole twitter hype broke). Showing strong signs of being the next Simon Calder, all he needs now is a couple of high profile BA ticket ripping stunts to his name. On his blog Benji writes some very thought provoking pieces on the bleeding edge of travel trends and the media industry in general.

Cool travel guide: I must admit, I'm not a huge fan of the name. For me, travel really should be totally unaffected by the cool factor, however I am a fan of the content. Lara (the author) has written more guide books than I have read. There are posts about the latest travel trends, but the most interesting and insightful for me are when she gets on to the debate between consumer review and expert opinion

Travel blather: This isn't going to be of interest to everybody as it focuses primarily on the travel writing industry. But given most of us do tend to read a guide book or two it is interesting to understand a little of what goes on behind the scenes. Some fierce debates ensue around writer's pay, how bloggers will ever make a decent living from all their hard work and editorial transparency (when was the last time you saw a negative article in the pages of the broadsheet travel sections?). Travel blather must rank among the most commented on blogs online, regularly attracting long heated arguments in the comments section.

Keep an eye out for part 2 which will look at our favourite travel planning sites.

Responsible Travel Award Winners on Tourdust!

Thu, 10 Dec 2009 13:18:00 +0000

We go to great lengths on Tourdust to hand pick the very best tour operators from around the world. So you can imagine how very pleased we were when we found out that two of our operators have been recognised by the 2009 Virgin Holidays Responsible Travel Awards.

Best Volunteering Organisation; Travel People & Places

We have been working with Sallie from Travel People & Places for quite some time now and so are really excited that their work has been recognised. Arranging volunteering placements around the world, a huge amount of work goes in to ensuring that volunteers are matched with the right project. The emphasis of the placements is on skills matching - placing volunteers with skills that will add to the project, not replacing someone who could have been employed locally. Whilst volunteers pay a fee to participate, every effort is made to ensure transparency, so that participants know exactly where their money goes.

Best for Poverty Reduction; Guludo Lodge

The team at Guludo have been praised on account of the tremendous work the founders have done for their charity, Nema. The foundation works with 12 communities in and around Guludo, providing 550 children with a school meal every day, securing clean water for 12,000 people, 4,400 mosquito nets for mothers of young children and funding secondary education for 79 pupils.

Many congratulations on your success!

Review of Broome Retreat

Wed, 09 Dec 2009 15:39:00 +0000

I'd consider myself a seasoned camper and have done my fair share from tame camp sites in the UK, to basic DOC sites in New Zealand, to staying in a ger on the Mongolian steppe with no toilets to speak of (unless you consider a pit in the ground a loo....) All of these experiences have left me something of a camping snob, so I've never really got the whole 'glamping' or luxury camping thing. And yet, our tipis and yurts have been very popular this summer. So, I donned my wellies and headed off to stay at Broome Retreat in the Tanat Valley in Wales to see what it was all about.

First things first, anyone who knows me knows that I always underestimate how long a journey will take me and my sense of direction is wobbly to say the least. Given that I have an inherent mistrust of our GPS and Ben had mis-spelled the name of the town we were heading to (Llan something he said helpfully) we were soon lost. Lesson 1. Always take a map. With three tired and hungry children in the back, I decided to admit defeat and call Kate to tell her we were lost, but realised there was no mobile reception. Lesson 2. Don't rely on your mobile, take a map. It was getting dark, so I popped into a local pub where a very friendly couple directed us to our destination. Which was where the GPS had been directing us all along. Lesson 3. Trust modern technology. Or buy a map.

So, tired, grumpy and hungry, we pitched up at the yurt site which is sited on a horse farm. We received an incredibly warm welcome from Kate who took us down to our accommodation for the night. Inside the spacious yurt was a double futon and 2 armchairs, which converted into 2 single futons. With no electricity in the yurt itself, all light was from the many candles around the room. There was a gas heater to heat the room, which was really needed, as it was the end of October.

At the top of the site is a covered amenities block. The bathroom has a toilet and a warm shower and is shared between the only 2 yurts on the site. In the kitchen block. there is a woodburning stove, an oven, sink and all the cooking utensils you might need. There was also a small collection of books and games, although no chance of that with young children around! There was enough room around the kitchen table to seat all of us and a high chair for the baby, so we were soon tucking into our sausages and beans that we had brought with us. There was also a fridge and freezer to store your food in.

The children were so excited to be sleeping in the same room as their parents and settled down into their beds very quickly. With all the beds laid out, it was clear that there was plenty of space for the 5 of us and we were soon all snoring away in perfect harmony.

The wonderful part about sleeping in a yurt is that you don't have any electricity and with no mobile reception, we were looking forward to being awoken by the sunrise and the noise of the birds singing. Wellies on, and we emerged from our cocoon to views of a beautiful and rugged landscape. Chickens roam freely around the site, as do the dog and the cat, which the children just loved. The yurt is sited on a solid base, with a verandah to sit on and stare at the hills around us. For summer days, there was a bbq pit and a table in front of the yurt.

There are just 2 yurts on the site and we were the only people staying, so I don't know whether the 5 of us would have disturbed the other people staying there. It did occur to me, that this would be the perfect place for 2 family groups to come to. The kitchen and the bathroom are both communal, so you do have to take it in turns with the other guests.

After breakfast, we headed off for a walk - you can walk up to the hills on a public footpath leaving from the site. Suffice to say that by the time we reached the top, I was gushing that we should move to the Tanat Valley - it really was so beautiful.

Sadly, however, it was soon time to for us to leave. After a lovely chat with our hosts, we headed off deeper into Wales.

Conclusions to be drawn and lesson learned from our stay. I am no longer a camping snob, in fact, I'm a total convert to 'glamping'. Why not sleep in a proper bed and enjoy all the benefits of camping (outdoors, fresh air) with a comfy bed and candle lit surroundings? A yurt is an incredibly peaceful and tranquil structure and even being woken up by our children at 5am didn't mar it. Broome Retreat is perfect for families and a great value break for couples. Sold to the lady in wellies!

Top 5 Half Term Ideas

Tue, 27 Oct 2009 19:51:00 +0000

Half way through half term and already used up all of your ideas? If you're like me and soft play barns bring you out in hives, then push your boundaries and do something a bit different. So, pack your day bag and go and explore somewhere entirely new with the children, here are my top 5 half term ideas;

1) Go to London for the day. Kids love going on the train and if you're armed with enough snacks and distractions, then the time will pass very quickly. Once in London, you don't have to follow the cheesy tourist trail. You could take them to the Anish Kapoor exhibition at the Royal Academy - with a cannon shooting balls of wax and a room full of mirror sculptures, the kids will love it. After that. head past the fancy shops (pausing to admire Fortnum & Mason's windows) and go to Green Park for an ice cream and a wave at the Palace.

2) Go to France for the day. I know at first glance that might seem like a barmy idea, but why not? A days return to France will set you back just £30 (which is less than your family ticket to the zoo let's face it!) and not only that, but imagine how excited your children will be to get on a ferry and go to a different country for the day. Enjoy a continental lunch in Calais followed by a wander round the town, and there'll even be time to stock up on some cheese and wine before you have to come home!

3) Explore North Devon for the day. Base yourself in Ilfracombe and explore tunnels beaches Voted the 3rd best beach for rock-pooling in the UK, this place has a lot going for it. Enjoy exploring the beach and clambering on the rocks and then have lunch at the surprisingly chic cafe blue bar complete with pirate ship play area. After that, head down to the cheesy end of town and eat ice creams by the harbour wall.

4) Head to Cambridge for the day. With weather forecasters predicting an Indian summer, it's the perfect excuse to take a picnic and go for a punt! If you're feeling brave, you can do it yourself, or you can go for the guided option. Once you're ashore again, enjoy strolling through the town and play spot the physics students, before stopping for the best tea and cake in town at the Fitzwilliam museum cafe.

5) Visit Cambridge's nemesis, Oxford for the day. The Natural History Museum in Oxford has some great dinosaurs which the kids will love and then next door is the Pitt Rivers museum which has the most brilliant collection of curios from around the world, including shrunken heads! After you're done, go to the park just down the road and grap a crepe from the van before heading down to the river to laugh at the punters getting stuck in the river.

Thanks to Flickr User Chelmsford Blue for the photo.

MPs (should) claim for holiday expenses

Thu, 15 Oct 2009 11:23:00 +0100

Embattled on all fronts and with the embarrassment of his £12k expenses payback, could things have been different if our Gordon had spent his allowance a little more wisely?

We're firmly of the opinion that money spent on home improvements, cleaners and the like is simply wasted travel budget. We once blew our new carpet fund on a 2 week jaunt to South Africa and never looked back. If only poor old Gordon Brown could have spent his £12k of dodgy allowances a little more wisely on some adventure holidays, surely he'd have a stronger chance come May.

"Suppose I should probably have one last go at sexing the son of the manse image up" Harley motorbike tour of South Africa --£4632
"Whilst I'm at it, there have been murmurs recently about my in-decisiveness, must do something about that" Navigation course -- £99
"And this'll show-up David bloody Cameron and his soft bicycle entourage" Township tour by bike-- £77
"On to policy, we need a response to the growing food import dependency, but I'm not giving those tory voting, hand-out grabbing, fox hunting farmers another penny" Wild foraging course --£160
"Och aye, we'll also make those dastardly backbenchers sleep in a campsite on St James's Park, that'll save on second home allowances" Luxury Tipi in Herefordshire --£250
"Oh, and I really did want to do something about poverty in Africa, blasted Geldof stole my limelight." Volunteer in the Gambia -- £1085
"That'll be just about my work done, I'll head off on a nice safari in the run up to the election and leave that Milliband boy to do the door-to-door, trust him like my own son I do!" Safari & tropical island in Malawi --£1720
"Although of course, for security reasons, it'll have to be business class" Return business class fare to Africa -- £3977

Total = £12,000 well spent

Instead of all this fun, poor old G is left to pony up £12k. Somebody give the man an award for the most overworked, under holidayed politician.

It is only fair that we disclose our own ill-gotten expenses gains.

Ben: "errrm, it is true I spent over £40 of a client's expenses bill on a single shot of armagnac, there may have been some suspect taxi receipts too. Give me a break I was young, foolish and a consultant (the three tend to go hand in hand)."

Anna: "not me gov."

Becky: "drunken lunches, but all of that was a long time ago"

The Intern: "Look, stop picking on me, there is nothing wrong with M&S luxury salads, I can't eat tuna sarnies every day. And stop complaining about the dodgy photoshop hack, it was the best I could do."

Credits: photo of Gordon Brown caricature by Flickr user World Development Movement. Photo of Harley Davidson burning rubber by Flickr user tirebiterz. Photo of Metro newspaper by Flickr user renaissancechambara.

Great Autumn Breaks

Wed, 14 Oct 2009 15:32:00 +0100

Autumn is drawing on and winter is fast approaching. The perfect time to get out and make the most of the refreshingly cool weather before ‘refreshingly cool’ becomes depressingly cold….. After all, within a matter of weeks crisp autumn leaves and clear night skies turn to something far darker indeed.

Close to home, the yurts and tipi sites (or glamping if you prefer!) finally have good availability after a crazy summer where it seemed everyone wanted an August weekend in a tipi. Most sites have dropped their prices since the end of the peak season, and perhaps counter-intuitively it is a great time to go. What really separates out your average yurt or tipi from Blacks’s best is the cosy interior - think wood burning stoves, thick pile rugs and cosy duvets.

Further afield, autumn of course is a fantastic time for foodies. Loads of fresh produce, foraging for mushrooms, and the worst of the summer hordes have departed. How about a romantic weekend in Le Marche in a delightful rural farmhouse with cooking classes and some seriously good food?

Some ideas for your autumn break:

Yurt & Tipi Holiday Retreat in Wales £270 for two nights mid week:
Located on a 1,300 acre organic farm in the Dyfi Valley in Wales surrounded by nothing but unpolluted, fresh country air for miles around, this is the ultimate romantic relaxation hideout. Why not turn off your Blackberry and enjoy an expert reiki healing session or meditation class? Then snuggle up in your tipi with your significant other, heated by your very own wood burner and enjoy a complementary welcome hamper. These guys have been booked up all year and now have spaces available, but only until the 9^th of November so book quickly to avoid disappointment.

La Tavola Marche Agriturismo & Cooking School € 580 a couple for 3 nights accommodation, dinner for 2 with wine, horseback riding and custom cooking class:
If you fancy yourself as a bit of a nature lover, and like the idea of cooking and eating delicious organic food in a tranquil atmosphere then this could be your perfect autumn escape. La Tavola Marche is a secluded stone farmhouse Agriturismo & Cooking School set on more than 500 acres of rolling hills and surrounded by breathtaking farmland scenery. Ashley and Jason who run La Tavola Marche grow their own fresh, organic fruit and vegetables in the gardens and invite you to explore the surrounding woods and forage for porcini and other local mushrooms with their expert guide. Visitors then return to the kitchen where the secrets of the Italian kitchen are revealed. Participants are shown how to create local seasonal dishes with the edibles they find in the nearby grounds and are also given a homemade apron as a souvenir of the trip!

Boutique San Sebastian Culinary Holiday $1920 per person based on four people travelling (including private guide, boutique accommodation & meals in San Sebastian's finest restaurants):

So you think you know a thing or two about fine cuisine? Well then you’ll want to visit the town that boasts the most Michelin Star restaurants per capita in the whole world (with 7)!! Get your lips around this mouth-watering culinary tour in the stunning Spanish coastal town of San Sebastian, a real hot-spot for fine food. Included in this tour is a private Pinxtos (tapas) tour led by an expert guide through the impressive Old Town and an Iberian cooking lesson from top Spanish chefs. Plus, what food tour would be complete without a drop of vino?? This trip also includes a visit to the famous wine region, Rioja, which is one of only two areas in Spain to be awarded the prestigious DOC award.

Alternatively if you are looking for a more active Autumn break, we have a great selection of walking holidays and cycling holidays.

Last Minute Oktoberfest Trips

Wed, 30 Sep 2009 09:03:00 +0100

If you have been thinking about going to Oktoberfest, but not yet got round to organising your trip, or indeed are just wondering what to do this weekend, then look no further!

There are still places available on this weekend's tour to the Oktoberfest departing on the 2nd - 5th October. The tour takes you to one of Bavaria'a most popular tourist attractions, the castle of Neuschwanstein, before taking in the Austrian village of Obergammerau. After enjoying these cultural highlights, it's on to Munich for a tour of the city and then to the big event itself. Andy, who organises and leads the tours, has a table in the Hacker Festzelt where you can enjoy some fine beer and oompah songs!

To book, or for more information, please email us at help@tourdust.com

Adventures in Scotland

Mon, 21 Sep 2009 15:21:00 +0100

I'm currently up in Scotland reviewing some of our adventure operators up here. The journey North is fascinating, the scenery gets wilder and wilder as you pass through the Peak District, the Lake District and then the Highlands. For me, Scotland is easily the equal of New Zealand and a much under-rated destination. Admittedly the weather can get a bit dismal, but as long as you come prepared for the worst, you'll be blown away by the scenery.

So far I've done a spot of sea kayaking in the Firth of Lorn, and have just got back on dry land after 4 days at sea exploring the Hebridean Islands on a wildlife and walking cruise. The islands are simply stunning and hugely evocative with their abandoned dwellings. My stomach has grown in size from all the fine food onboard. Tomorrow I head to Glencoe for some scrambling and hiking which I can't wait for (assuming the seeping rain relents!)

Reviewing our suppliers is a new development for Tourdust. We feel it is critical to provide an impartial view on the holidays we feature - so expect some no-nonsense opinions. We'll be featuring our reviews alongside customer reviews to be able to provide the ultimate guide to the best adventure holidays and cultural tours from local experts. Having said that everything on tourdust has already come through a fairly vigorous selection process, so you'll have to excuse us some (genuine) hyperbole along the way.

Throughout the trip I've been using the Google Mytracks application on my new gadget phone (HTC hero for the geeks out there) to track my progress and geocode my photos and notes, so I'm looking forward to getting it all online soon.

Tourdust scholarship winners

Wed, 09 Sep 2009 08:00:00 +0100

Back in spring we decided to get involved with the Geotourism 09 prize. The process of collecting entries from all over the world, sorting them and picking three winners has finally come to a conclusion. We can announce that RiverIndia, CapeRace and Ger to Ger are our winners.

To me, Geotourism is travelling to experience (and support) local culture, local places and local people (you can read more about this in my previous blog on Geotourism). Our three winners are all putting on simply amazing adventure travel and cultural travel experiences, that they are all managing to do so whilst putting huge amounts back into the local communities is a miracle!

Ger to Ger provide deep cultural immersion in Mongolia offering homestays, guided trekking, and horseback expeditions along nomadic trails. Ger to Ger trains nomadic herders and teams them up with local guides to give travellers a thoroughly authentic taste of Mongolia. We were delighted to pick Ger to Ger because our inspiration to start Tourdust came during a stay with a nomadic family in Mongolia. There were a fair few disneyfied nomadic camps around, but we got lucky. With Ger to Ger you know you are staying with a real nomadic herder family - I can honestly say that there is nothing else like it on earth, the nomadic way of life is so different from the West, it is simply enlightening. I was particularly tickled whan I read that they mongolize the visitors rather than westernising the nomads.
Cape Race is a unique eco-cultural experience in Newfoundland, Canada. You stay in three spectacular historic coastal homes and explore unique and out-of-the-way nature sites, pubs and music venues under your own steam. The key is a tailor-made professional guide book written specifically for your trip and full of local contacts. Cape Race is trying to facilitate the ultimate aim of any independent traveller, to explore and get to know a place as only a local could. We love that they try to give you real local contacts at each pub or place they recommend. Importantly they also strive to ensure local encounters are spontaneous and authentic and never staged.
River India offers culturally-immersive white-water rafting, kayaking, and fishing expeditions on the undiscovered but epic Siang River. Whilst the region is undiscovered and the river truly epic, what really marks River India out is their approach to protecting the river environment and supporting the local economy. River India supports and operates a river skills school which trains and supports locals to set up their own companies on the river. So many adventure holidays are all about the adventure and forget about the local people and place. River India serves up the ultimate river adventure whilst putting you up in traditional local bamboo huts and dishing up local food. That they can manage this and put so much back into the local community is awe inspiring.

We spend a large portion of our time trying to find really authentic operators who have a genuine local expertise and run thing the way we like them run (small groups, expert guides, owners involved in operations, fantastic experiences). We were looking for a way to publicise this search with a contest to find the the most innovative exciting small travel companies from around the world and the Geotourism contest is a superb vehicle for it thanks to the efforts of the Ashoka Changemakers organisation. Ashoka Changemakers organise the Geotourism 09 contest and it is heavily supported by the National Geographic magazine.

We thought long and hard about the prize and have come up with something we hope will make a real and sustainable difference to the winners. There is a financial element to the prize which includes budget towards online marketing and participation at an International travel show. The other element is a mentor relationship with experienced travel industry professionals:

Christina Heyniger: Founder of Off The Radar and Xola Consulting Services, which works with owner-operators and innovative organizations blending adventure tourism and volunteer service. Christina is an Associate with the Adventure Travel Trade Association and serves on the board of directors for Sustainable Travel International, and Protect the Earth, Protect Yourself - an adventure travel/ volunteer tourism organization. She also serves as an advisor to the National Geographic Center for Sustainable Development.

Alex Bainbridge: Authoritative & insightful blogger on the travel ecommerce industry. Alex is the founder and MD of Tour CMS, a web-based reservation system designed for small and medium-sized tour operators. Alex has significant expertise in harnessing ecommerce and social media for small travel businesses.

Chris Noble: General Manager of World Nomads and co-founder of Footprintsnetwork. Footprintsnetwork is an alliance of online e-commerce companies making a difference with a solution that supports sustainable poverty alleviation community programs.

Photo of Ger courtesy of Flickr user the wandering angel.

Geotourism

Tue, 08 Sep 2009 15:10:00 +0100

I've never been a huge fan of labels, mainly because only a select few know what the hell they mean. However putting that aside, let me explain how I interpret geotourism.

We are quite set in our ways about the whole field of responsible travel. We believe that people want great holidays first and foremost and the ethics of our holiday choices are only a hygiene factor. So we want to have confidence that our choice is ethical but really just want to be able to concentrate on finding the most fun, most inspiring, most alive holidays. That is why we love the concept of geotourism.

To me, Geotourism is travelling to experience local culture, local places and local people. At its simplest it is staying at a locally run b&b eating good local grub and getting a few tips from the landlady on where to visit. The diametric opposite of staying in a four star hotel with international buffets. The beauty of geotourism is that by going local, not only are you likely to have a better experience (assuming you don't like dull sameness) but by learning about the locality and using local businesses the local community and place will benefit more too.

So is Tourdust a proponent of responsible tourism or geotourism? I don't know, all I know is we spend a lot of time and effort trying to track down adventure holidays and cultural tours from local experts. Most of the time this means a genuinely locally owned and run business, but not always - it comes down to who can give the best locally-flavoured experience. Along the way we try and do what we can to support the communities we travel to. From humble beginnings and all that, but at the moment we are supporting the Geotourism 09 contest and we have a monthly quota of new suppliers we take on who we work with on a non profit basis. This tends to include our volunteering holidays, but also can include very small local operators who aren't set up to be able to pay commissions.

Flying with Children, it's not that bad!

Sat, 15 Aug 2009 09:03:00 +0100

In my footloose and fancy free days, I would turn up at the airport and flinch whenever I saw families with young children looking to board a plane. I used to think how selfish it was to travel with toddlers and would dread being kept awake by screaming babies....

My how times have changed! We flew to and from the States recently with our 3 children, who are all aged under 4. As we queued to board the plane, our baby was dribbling and puking and our 2 year old was refusing to walk - she's recently taken on the persona of a pet cat and will only answer to the name Midnight, but that's another story. As she crawled through our fellow passengers' legs, followed by her older sister chasing her, I suddenly realised that I had become my worst nightmare. Somewhere along the way, my i-pod and handbag have been replaced with bags dripping with toys, milk and wet wipes. Instead of dressing nicely in the hope of an upgrade, I find myself dressed in practical and but dark coloured clothing, to cover up the inevitable drool and spills that I will be covered in at the other end. I manage a quick 'good luck' to Ben as we board, here goes 9 hours in a confined space with 4 seats between the 5 of us.... eek

Nine hours later, we disembark, in reasonable shape. Having been dreading the flight for so long, I couldn't quite believe that we had done it. We were all still speaking to eachother and as we began to queue for immigration, feeling everso slightly smug for having survived, I started planning our next trip....

So, my top tips for flying with children;

1) Sounds obvious, but pack a bag of treats for the children to open during the flight. Magazines, a pencil case full of new felt tips, favourite books, you name it. I also bought Usbourne's 100 Things to Do with little children on a journey, which went down really well.

2) Plane food is really not toddler friendly (especially on US Airways!) So I took lots of raisins and snacks with me. For the baby, I took lots of spare milk.

3) Take lots of wipes, nappies and spare clothes (for everyone!)

4) One of the most traumatic parts for the children was going through US security. All of our shoes were x-rayed, as well as all teddies, blankets etc. If you all wear slip-on shoes, it will make this a lot quicker and easier. Also, stash your child's favourite toy in a bag before you get to the security gate, so you don't have to go through the trauma of wrestling it off them with a queue of people behind you.

5) Don't be too self-conscious and remember to have a sense of humour. There is a lot of background noise on a plane, so actually the noise from your child and baby is not that bad and most people are watching their TV's with headphones, so you're not disturbing them that much. And even if people do glare at you every time your baby cries, well, you'll probably never see them again anyway.....

PS Thanks to flickr user hyougushi for the photo.

What's new in adventure travel?

Fri, 14 Aug 2009 19:03:00 +0100

Adventure travel is a funny old term, covering a far wider range of experiences than one might imagine from the adrenalin fuelled moniker. Most of the tours and holidays we feature on Tourdust tend to fit somewhere under the adventure travel umbrella, so what is new in the space?

The stuff we are getting most excited about here at Tourdust tends to be at either end of the adventure travel spectrum. At the (hideously-termed) ‘soft adventure’ end, I get hugely passionate about the emergence of the UK’s burgeoning 'foodie' culture in some great adventure breaks. From mountain biking and breweries, road cycling and foodie pubs to an antipodean style tour of the vineyards. Here are some of my favourites:

A weekend mountain biking & brewery break in the Yorkshire Dales whose destination is a fine local real ale brewery (no fancy visitor centres here, just loads of the old top fermented special, brewed up in the fine surroundings of an industrial estate).
A self guided gourmet cycle tour of the Forest of Bowland with a route taking in some great inns and farm shops (coming soon to Tourdust)
An English wine tour: A first for England, remember that awesome day spent touring the vineyards in the Hunter Valley (Marlborough, Stellenbosch, Margaret River substitute your favourite) hopping from one picturesque vineyard to another, a little taste here, a little taste there. Ben & Georgie Furst have bought it to the fine and upcoming vineyards of Kent and Sussex. Within easy train reach of London or Brighton you can forget about the car and enjoy the wine. Read our interview with Ben and Georgie from English Vine Tours here.
Walking holiday in Spain : Everybody knows about the long distance walks in the UK, and the superb walking in France, Austria and Italy, but Spain is proving a real hot for walking holidays at the moment, ranging from the thoroughly adventurous Sierra Nevada, Alpujarras and Pyrenees to the rolling vineyard territory of the Priorat region

I'm currently on a rather personal hunt for real ale tours in the UK. I am partial to some properly brewed beer. On a recent visit to Asheville in the States there were no less than 4 or 5 brewpubs serving superb beer (why can't we serve our ales cold in the UK?) and an outfit offering tours of the breweries. With countless real ale breweries and loads of great pubs the time is ripe for some specialist UK ale tours surely?

At the other end of the spectrum I’m itching with impatience to get out on some of the jaw dropping adventures (or should I say expeditions) I’ve come across recently. The kind which take you across incredible wilderness back-country. We’ve got a bunch in the pipeline I’ll write about at a later date.

Let us know if you’ve found any great foodie breaks in the UK (I’m thinking more than just the spa hotel with a nice restaurant here if you don’t mind).

Other great sources of information for adventure travel tips can be found at www.adventuretraveltips.com

Welcome to the new Tourdust blog

Sat, 08 Aug 2009 15:25:00 +0100

Welcome to the new Tourdust blog!

We have been busy squirreling away adding exciting new features to Tourdust to make it the best adventure travel ecommerce site in the world. In the meantime we need to get serious with our blog (which previously had been a bit of a mixed bag of topics over at the trailbeater.)

The Trailbeater will remain for Ben’s ramblings on the travel industry, ecommerce and the like. This blog will focus on our true passion - travel. We’ll be talking about some of our favourite adventures and cultural experiences and we will be interviewing some of our fantastic operators (just to give y’all a healthy dose of lifestyle envy). We’ll also describe our travels around the world, where over the coming years, we’ll be attempting to review all of our operators first hand. So, expect a good dose of our stories and travails travelling with our three cheeky little girls. Ben also hopes to start a series of posts on his passion – travel literature and world music, to whet your appetite for travel.

Of course you may also see the odd cheeky link to things like adventure travel, well there wouldn’t be much point in putting all this effort into writing if we didn’t do what we can to please Gbot.

(If you are captivated by the photo, it is an image from a particularly spectacular wilderness trip in Canada)