Tous les Visages

SOUTH AMERICA TRAVEL COSTS

2012-10-25T20:18:00.000-04:00

One of the most frequently asked questions about long term traveling concerns the funds needed to make it a reality. Based on our experience; rapid inflation, volatile exchange rates and lack of online information in many countries make it difficult to accurately predict costs. In order to reduce the risk of returning home earlier than planned it’s important to keep track of expenses, and if needed, to be prepared to make changes in the manner in which one travels.

We chose to travel in a way in which we would keep many of the habits and relative comforts of our daily lives back home. This involved frequent meals in restaurants, private accommodation (sometimes dorms in larger, more expensive cities), covering large distances in comfortable buses, frequently going out, and visiting famous attractions.

Based on the above, we came to realise that a multiplier of 3 times accommodation gave us a fairly reliable guide to establishing total daily costs. Example: $30 per night accommodation multiplied by 3 = $90 total daily cost. This multiplier can often be reduced to 2 if staying in dorms, choosing hostels that have a kitchen and cooking meals, minimising guided tours, and avoiding going out frequently.

At the end of each month we reviewed our online bank statements to calculate expenditures and to keep track of our spending in relation to budgeted funds. The table below includes all costs (local transport, accommodation, meals, entertainment, etc.) but does not include pre-travel expenses such as flight tickets, insurance, vaccines, etc.

COSTS FOR TWO PEOPLE (COUPLE) IN $US

BEST OF SOUTH AMERICA

2012-10-15T02:45:00.000-04:00

Below is a highly subjective list which attempts to categorise and single out some of our favourite places encountered during our year on the road in South America.

NATURE AND LANDSCAPES: Bolivia with its towering mountains and its vast slice of Amazonian rain forest offered the most impressive and diverse scenery of any country. Parque National Madidi in the midst of thick jungle, and the nearby Pampas with its wealth of animals on display offered a unique experience. In complete contrast, hiking the vast and remote plains high in the Andes surrounding Sucre gave us a glimpse of traditional Quechua lifestyle.

LA FIESTA: Buenos Aires operates on a different schedule, eat supper after 22:00, go out at 2:00 and come home at 7:00 when the sun is up and the bakery has fresh pastries ready. This place was made for long and memorable nights out. With many diverse neighbourhoods to choose from and each having its distinct flavour, there are countless opportunities to go out and enjoy the cities vibrant cosmopolitan nightlife. Just make sure to bring plenty of cash because these nights will most likely not be cheap.

LEARNING SPANISH: Friendly Colombia, a country where its remarkably easy to meet locals and to take part in conversations, is by far the most recommended place to learn the language. With relatively few English speakers around in many parts of the country, you're constantly in contact with the Spanish language and given plenty of opportunities to practice. Plus, the beautiful accents of Medellin, Cali and Bogota will facilitate the learning process. Once mastered, speaking the local language will invariably contribute to a much richer travel experience.

BEACHES: The Northeast coast of Brazil features endless soft sand beaches, warm waters, and peaceful beach towns that quickly draw you in. Jericoacoara with its many windsurfers, high sand dunes and a mellow hippy vibe, tops the list. Further south Praia de Pipa with its diverse shops and restaurants, tropical fauna and friendly wild dolphins swimming near shore is a natural paradise. Add to the mix local Brazilians, arguably the most friendly and energetic people on the planet, and you won't want to leave. We visited these places in the very beginning of our travels and they proved very difficult to escape.

FOOD AND CUISINE: Chile, with its heaps of fresh seafood and some of the tastiest natural ingredients, impresses with its cuisine. Unlike the fried food meccas of neighbouring countries or the heavy, all meat Argentinian diet, Chilenos have really learned to incorporate diversity in their diet and to take advantage of their numerous locally produced foods. Pulmay, caldillo, chupe de pescado, ceviche, sushi and even the completos (hotdogs with mayo and a heap of avocado) are all exceptionally delicious. Add great wines at affordable prices such as Sauvignon Blanc and Carmenere and you end up with unbelievable feast.

SURFING: Although we're completely awful at the sport, we nevertheless developed an interest in being amongst the waves. For beginners, Mancora in northern Peru is fun with slow but powerful waves requiring little effort to ride. Just beware of the rocks and coral beneath. In Ecuador, Montanita has a fun beach break that features a section where the waves are smaller and less powerful. For us, Canoa in Ecuador is the perfect beach town, easily accessible, has adequate waves for beginners, is not overrun by tourism and has all the infrastructure to offer choice and diversity of restaurants, bars and accommodation which favors affordability.

SANTA MARTA & AROUND, COLOMBIA

2012-10-10T13:26:00.000-04:00

Further along the coast, the city of Santa Marta is a recommended base for exploring nearby attractions. Although the city has nothing particularly unique to offer, great weather, numerous restaurants and fun nightlife make it an pleasant place for a few days. We especially enjoyed the atmosphere and comfort of The Dreamer Hostel, even though it's located slightly far from the city center.

Ten minutes outside of Santa Marta lies Taganga, a small fishing village now turned into a coastal holiday destination which is renowned for its party town status. Not pretty by any means, the beaches are dirty, the water occasionally smelly, and most streets are little more than rock and mud paths. For us, it was a place of reunions and good-byes, meeting friends from back home who came to join us, and saying goodbye to Paul whom we had been traveling with for several weeks along the coast. We spent most days relaxing by the pool at La Masia Hostel sometimes finding the motivation to get a fresh juice by the beach or hiking 20 minutes to the nicer Playa Grande across the hill. The restaurant scene in the town is also noteworthy with a great variety which includes a french restaurant Pachamama serving imported cheeses which we might have overindulged in after many months of fasting. Great cuisine and excellent cocktails is enough of a reason to make a stop here.

Less than an hour away lies one of the coasts nicest and most popular natural attractions Parque National Tyrona. Once into the park, on foot or horseback constitute the only means of transportation. The well marked footpaths through the jungle and along the numerous beaches have spectacular views, make sure to bring lots of water since the heat is oppressive. Many beaches are unsafe for swimming because of violent undertows so it's essential to read posted warnings before swimming. We stayed at Camping Don Pedro near Arrecifes beach, located in a wooded area. The other camping site in Cabo San Juan looked more like an open air concert where an unbelievable number of tents had been squished together. We didn't understand why people chose to pay double the price in San Juan and share the one bathroom on site but they surely must have regretted it when the park was hit by a heavy tropical downpour during our last night. We highly recommend the bakery located near the beach not far from Camping Don Pedro, the chocolate stuffed pastry were delicious and large enough for two.

Still further down the coast, about 20 minutes from Parque Tyrona, Costeno Beach Surf Camp features hammocks and bungalows in an isolated and tranquil setting. The 30 minute walk from the highway through the fields and along the beach is very hot, especially when carrying a large backpack. The Caribbean coast of Colombia does not usually offer great waves and this was no exception. Choppy seas, insufficient number of long boards and a pretentious, cliquey staff means we would not recommend bothering with this stop.

Our ultimate destination was the small village of Palomino, about 45 minutes from Costeno beach. Again, a 20 minute walk from the main road was needed to reach the beach and the small hotel Finca Escondida. Running low on cash and no ATM in a 50 km radius, we opted for the cheap and trusty hammocks, for the first time on the trip, instead choosing to spend the remaining cash on the great dishes the hotel restaurant served. The natural beauty of the beach and Palomino's isolated sense make it a unique destination in what feels like a forgotten Caribbean hideaway.

CARTAGENA DE INDIAS, COLOMBIA

2012-10-01T23:00:00.000-04:00

Following the return journey to the mainland from Capurgana and the ensuing hectic bus scene in Turbo, exhausted and fed up, we decided to stop over in Monteria. At 35,000 pesos per night for a sleek, modern, air conditioned room, Hotel Centro Monteria was the best bargain encountered in Colombia. When the sun went down we understood why as hookers and drug dealers took over the central part of the city. The lack of security here is a real shame since by day it's very pleasant and boasts one of the nicest central parks we've seen. The park is a tropical oasis set along a river with howler monkeys and sloths which can spotted in the tree-line. The entire area comes alive in the evening when the heat drops and people fill the park to savour ice cream sundaes or cold beers.

The following day we finally arrived in South America's second most visited destination, Cartagena where we got "stuck" for nearly 2 weeks. Having regained access to modern amenities like good restaurants, cafes, bars, grocery stores, 24 hour electricity all within a historic walled city with beautiful colonial architecture in a tropical lively setting who could have blamed us.

We stayed in the Getsemani neighbourhood where most budget accommodation choices are concentrated. Less glitzy and polished than other parts of the old town, Getsemani has many local restaurants and bars, like our favorite Carretera 25, and the popular Plaza Trinidad where every night locals gather to enjoy cold drinks and street food. On Saturdays the square features DJs playing electronic music.

Cartagena ended up being one of our favorite cities on the continent, it's the perfect place to settle in and experience the culture of a truly unique Latin American city. Urban and lively with constant energy, finding ourselves strolling its historic old streets during steaming hot evenings was one of the highlights of this trip.

MUSIC HITS, SOUTH AMERICA 4

2012-09-06T13:56:00.000-04:00

For those unaware, the song behind the famous Brazilian dance " la Lambada" originates from Bolivia. The following clips take us through its history, showing the songs metamorphosis and eventual decline.

CAPURGANA & SAPZURRO, COLOMBIA

2012-09-02T23:14:00.000-04:00

While traveling from Medellin to Turbo located on the Caribbean coast neighbouring Panama, we were not sure if we were in a dirt trail or a road, but one thing is certain it was impossible to sleep for even a minute of the 11 hour bus journey.

The adventure didn't stop there, once in Turbo you're welcomed by a river filled with raw sewage with banks covered in plastic bags. Squeezed in a small boat packed with 50 other people we set out for the two hour journey to Capurgana. One of the boat engines broke down and 30 minutes into the ride we had to make our way back lopsided, gliding slowly in 40 degree heat.

So was it worth it? Still not sure. Capurgana is a pristine Caribbean getaway, no cars, horse and cart only, hot and sunny with warm and clear waters. The downsides... tropical and lush means mosquitoes, and far and remote means power outages. With barely 6 random hours of electricity per day, fresh juices are impossible to come by, cold beers are sometimes warm, and when the fan goes out at night in a steaming bedroom and the mosquitoes get to work you wonder why you're there.

The 1.5 hour walk to neighbouring village Sapzurro crosses jungle filled with exotic birds, monkeys, insects and snakes, which Vanessa came within centimeters from stepping on. "Carry a long stick for protection against venomous snakes and spiders", were the wise words of a park worker we crossed minutes after the incident. We much preferred this village to Capurgana, the surroundings are picturesque and the vibe of local residents more pleasant. We recommend staying at Zingara which has one of the warmest hosts we've encountered, Clemencia.

La Miel, a nice beach in Panama is a quick 20 minute walk away, just make sure to bring a passport. Also FYI, traveling through to Puerto Obaldia and onwards to Panama City requires some planning, book your fight in advance and bring plenty of cash (US and Pesos) as it's impossible to withdraw money once outside Turbo. Be prepared, based on testimony from other travelers the trip over to Central America is not as simple as written in guide books, canceled flights, long delays, intolerable heat and unfriendly military personnel are the norm.

MEDELLIN, COLOMBIA

2012-08-24T17:05:00.000-04:00

Having figured out we can negotiate long distance bus fares, we stripped a few thousand pesos off our tickets and traveled from Pereira to Medellin, Colombia's second largest city. Described as the city of eternal spring, the weather is simply perfect. Hot and sunny during the day, cool enough at night to sleep comfortably without AC, it couldn't be better.

Once home to Pablo Escobar, the city has overcome years of violence and bloodshed and now boasts modern and effective infrastructure. For those interested, there is a city tour and during the afternoon it is possible to meet his brother Juan Pablo. We couldn't be bothered, most relics associated with the man have been destroyed by a government keen on burying and forgetting those tumultuous years.

Most accommodation choices are concentrated in the El Poblado neighbourhood, a wealthy suburb on the city's edge. The effect is demoralizing when you get in, but the quick and modern metro system makes it a breeze to get around. After visiting the downtown center it becomes clear that staying there is not the best option so we made the Black Sheep Hostel in El Poblado our home for the week. From station Acevedo, a cable-car glides above sprawling neighbourhoods not many would dare visit, giving a glimpse in the lives of those whom in the past decade have taken refuge from the fighting in the countryside and are just beginning to have access to basic services.

Medellin has a great nightlife and from Wednesday onwards, La Zona Rosa, within walking distance of El Poblado, is packed and lively. The many original "shot bars" are a must to try. Although not the cheapest of destinations, it was nevertheless a lot of fun!

SALENTO, ZONA CAFETERA, COLOMBIA

2012-08-13T14:26:00.000-04:00

The more we rose in altitude the fresher the air became, a welcome change after the hot and polluted skies of Cali.

La Zona Cafetera, where most of Colombia's coffee is produced, is lush and scenic. A quick and easy bus transfer in Armenia and an hour later we were in Salento, the principle center of tourism of the area. Sombrebros and ponchos are ubiquitous, opening and closing hours random, simply a classic image of rural Colombia.

The hike through the Valle de Cocora is a must. The valley hosts a cloud forest and the majestic 60 meter tall wax palms, the official symbol of the country. We rode through the valley on horses with a group of vacationing Colombians we met while having a drink at the town square the night before. The fact that they could convince Vanessa to ride a horse for a whole afternoon through narrow slippery paths testifies to their incredible friendliness, charisma, and persuasiveness.

After a week of drinking to much coffee, strolling through the little coffee farm of our hostel Plantation House, playing tejo, a local game where a rock is thrown across the room at a series of firecrackers resting on a bed of clay, we regrettably had to move on and carry through with the caffeine withdrawal.

CALI, COLOMBIA

2012-08-08T17:39:00.000-04:00

The common saying that Cali is a city with an edge is definitely not an understatement. Not long ago at the center of a violent drug related conflict, the city still bears the scars of those troublesome years. It's really a shame since it's vibrant population and it's status as the salsa capital of the world make it an exiting place to visit.

We stayed at Hospedaje Tostaky located on the hilltop in the historic San Antonio neighborhood. The temperature during the daytime is just smoldering but come evening people gather at the nearby park to enjoy the calm, cool breeze from the hilltop overlooking the city. The neighbourhood is relatively safe and very much alive every day of the week. La Colina, an old corner store half transformed into a bar, is a must see. It's been open for over 75 years and they've been awaiting a bar license for a good portion of those years; understand the pace of things here?

We gathered the will and courage to wonder around the city, visiting the downtown and the city's famous zoo which was clean and modern, far exceeding our expectations. As for the downtown, the main reason for its shortfalls appear to be its setup, no mixed use and deserted at night.

We quickly passed through Cali, leaving after only a few days there but relieved to still have all our possessions with us and to be escaping the heat and sleepless nights (at least a fan at Tostaky would have been highly necessary). Nevertheless, we longed to get to know the city better and to immerse ourselves in a place that represents thrilling Colombia so well. Hopefully in the coming years the city will bloom and come to realise its full potential.

IPIALES, POPAYAN & THE BORDER, COLOMBIA

2012-08-05T17:12:00.000-04:00

From coastal Ecuador we undertook the marathon bus journey to the border with Colombia. An overnight bus from Canoa accompanied all night long by loud regatone music brought us into Quito at 3:30 AM, not a pleasant time to wander this unsafe city. Waiting until daylight in the tiny Reina del Camino bus terminal we walked half a block to the Flota Imbabura terminal and hopped on the next bus to Tulcan, the only recommended border crossing between the two countries.

A chaotic three hour wait to get our Ecuadorian exit stamp was the last thing we needed after all those hours of traveling. We openly argued with officials that kept on changing the location of entry and exit desks and hypocritical locals that attempted to cut the lines, one of the best displays of absurdity and disorganisation encountered so far. Once on the Colombian side, there were thankfully no lineups and officials were polite and professional.

By that time it was late afternoon and it is not recommended to travel by night in Southern Colombia where armed bandits have been known to highjack buses. Therefore we had to spend the night in cold and quiet Ipiales. Worn and sad looking Hotel Belmonte near the center was fine for a night but not a minute longer. We took shelter from the bitter cold under a giant pile of blankets and waited for morning to head to a better place.

Our wishes came true when we entered Popayan, an old typical colonial town with whitewashed buildings. Again the bus ride to to get there was a journey in itself. The bus was stopped four times by police and military checks, each time picking up, verifying, and giving back the citizenship card of each passenger on the bus while also giving our passports a quick glance. Once a FARC stronghold, the rural southern part of the country remains under strong security. To make things more interesting, a mechanical break turned an eight hour bus journey into a twelve hour one. After a few days in quiet Popayan listening to old vinyls in El Sotareño bar while mingling with locals and getting accustomed to Colombian hospitality, cuisine, and expressions (Que Chevere!) we were rested and ready to hop on the bus, once again.

MUSIC HITS, SOUTH AMERICA 3

2012-08-03T14:08:00.000-04:00

ECONOMIA DE ARGENTINA

2012-07-17T15:19:00.000-04:00

Oh Argentina, where to start? First, a short reminder on recent past events. Having accumulated large amounts of foreign denominated debt, Argentina experienced a severe economic crisis in 2001 when it defaulted on its obligations causing the banking sector to freeze up and many businesses to close their doors creating widespread unemployment. During the economic collapse, Argentinians were able to access only minor portions of their rapidly depreciating bank savings and the ensuing protests caused the death of several people.

Ten years later, a protectionist model has triumphed in the country creating strange effects in every day market activities. Products that are not "made in Argentina" are either not allowed to be sold in the country, are heavily taxed, or are slapped with high tariffs raising prices significantly. For example, electronics such as computers are approximately twice the price as in Western countries and the sale of Iphones has been prohibited. A thriving black market has emerged with products being supplied by those traveling abroad and shopping trips across the Chilean border to buy clothes and electronics have become common. Argentina is definitely not a country for a cheap shopping holiday. The countries leaders have implemented this protectionist policy to promote growth of local industries but in reality it has reduced local access to many goods, promoted a black market that doesn't pay sales tax, encouraged the theft of foreign goods belonging to visitors, and all the while failed to promote much needed improvements in productivity of Argentinean companies.

Although modern and developed in appearance, Argentina has maintained a cash only culture. Credit cards are little used and extra charges are common, exasperating the occurrence of tax evasion since cash transactions without receipts are the norm rather than the exception. Obtaining change following a purchase can be a real challenge. Most businesses operate on nothing but a few pesos in the cash register and anything over 50 pesos ($10) can be difficult to change; signs that profits are low and working capital tough to come by. Paper bills appear so old and fragile that one is afraid it will fall apart before it can be spent. Counterfeits are rampant, occasionally dispensed in ATM's but most often handed to unsuspecting consumers by taxi drivers and corner store owners. Trust and honesty in everyday transactions is lacking.

Capital controls and lack of faith in the banking system has encouraged many to move savings out of the country. On the border with Uruguay, dogs are not sniffing for illegal drugs but rather for US dollars. As a foreigner you can access only $250 per transaction and local banks charge $6 per withdrawal making it the worst of the countries we've visited when it comes to accessing cash.

High government spending has led to a real inflation rate of more than 20%, one of the highest in the world. In the short term this has decreased unemployment and stimulated consumption but prices are rising so fast that it has made life visibly more difficult for the retired and for numerous people left out of the formal economy who's incomes have stalled. All this, combined with currency control measures that keep the Argentinian Peso artificially high, means that prices are rising faster than the currency depreciates making the cost of traveling here one of the highest on the continent.

With recent turmoil still fresh in their minds, Argentinians are firmly behind this "new" economic model preached by their beloved President Christina, even though visibly it has made life more difficult and has increased the odds of another economic choc to the overheating economy, which is sadly accustomed to dramatic boom and bust cycles. Based on conversations with locals and information published in the media, change appears unlikely and further economic deterioration is the likelier outcome before the country comes to terms with reality and chooses to fully reintegrate the global economy and starts making real, sustainable gains.

PUERTO LOPEZ & CANOA, ECUADOR

2012-07-13T15:50:00.000-04:00

After waving down a bus and traveling a few hours north we reached Puerto Lopez, which sad to say has to be one of the ugliest villages we've come across. Yet, it doesn't take anything away from it's prime attraction, Parque Nacional Machalilla. On one of our rare days apart, Vanessa visited the island with two friends from home which we met on their travels south. We wish to thank you two for the great photos above!

The boat ride to reach Isla de la Plata, which is inhabited by blue footed boobies and fragatas, featured hump back whales easily spotted here during the months of June to August. The island bears its name due to its dry and barren landscape covered in bird droppings giving it its silvery shine.

Another few hours further north, the village of Canoa proved to be the highlight of our coastal getaway. A fishing village, less developed and visited than other beach destinations we've encountered, Canoa fitted the classic beach retreat. A series a seaside huts and a few local fried fish diners is about all there is. The beach is long and beautiful with waves that proved much cleaner and easier to ride, meaning we truly got to improve our surfing "skills" and enjoy our outings amongst the waves.

Staying at the friendly Hotel Bambu we mingled with some very interesting people, facilitated by the hotel's large open communal areas and its welcoming bar. Apart from the night roaming barking dogs, the garbage strewn beach, and the early morning loud music, (all things that have come to symbolise South America for us), details aside our time here was fantastic.

MONTAÑITA, ECUADOR

2012-07-06T17:04:00.000-04:00

We arrived in Montañita on a Friday and as the bus left us by the side of the road we had no idea what awaited in town. The village center is like an avalanche of sound being blasted from all directions. We thought we had grown accustomed to noise because while traveling on the continent its not usual to be surrounded by three different people blasting three different songs. Nevertheless, Montañita was something else. On "cocktail avenue", while sipping on caipiroskas prepared by the friendly Mr. Roosevelt, there were times we could barely hear one another.

We were happy to be staying away from the downtown noise but still right on the beach at Hostal Kundalini. At $30 per night it was slightly more expensive than other options but the clean modern rooms including a big breakfast was a great value. From there we could walk out to the ocean, rent surfboards and spend the afternoon in the water getting thrown around and bruised up. At this time of year the waves are not high nor fast and its quite difficult to stay on the board meaning we spent more time falling in the water and paddling than anything else.

Numerous seafood restaurants all serving the same thing, hamburgers sold on every street corner and a Spanish tapas restaurant called Hermanos En Routa meant there was no risk of going hungry. As opposed to many other beach destinations, the town is densely built, compact and always lively making it a must see destination on any trip to Ecuador's warm and sunny coast.

CUENCA & THE BORDER, ECUADOR

2012-07-01T23:32:00.001-04:00

The border crossing between Peru and Ecuador is just plain awkward. The customs offices of each country are in the middle of nowhere and there doesn't seem to be an actual crossing. First we stopped in a nondescript building to obtain the Peruvian exit stamp. Then we crossed the town of Aguas Verde which is essentially the border, to continue driving on the highway for another 20 minutes until we encountered the modern Ecuadorian border post where we obtained an entry stamp. It is highly recommended to take a direct bus between the two countries since the bus company escorts passengers through the process. We met many travelers who decided to do the crossing by themselves, hiring local transportation to manage the long and empty distances, only to have all their possessions stolen or nearly escaping robbery.

Once finished with border crossing formalities it was on to a windy road through lush banana plantations and then up the Andes once again, finally reaching Cuenca. The cities lively streets and its colonial flavour make it a pleasant place to spend a few days. We've already been in many colonial towns during this trip and were less inclined to take pictures, hence we apologise for the mediocre photo album above. This is our second time in Ecuador having visited a few years ago, so we felt rather comfortable being back in more "familiar" territory. Last time that happened it was in Buenos Aires where we were robbed on arrival but this time it was not to be!

Cuencans were celebrating the festival of Corpus Cristy which meant every night for the entire week people invaded the downtown square following mass to savour barbecued meats and the countless pastries and sweets being sold in street stands throughout town. It was a relaxing week for us, resting at the comfortable Alternative Hostel, spending evenings in shisha lounges, and drinking micro brewed beers, treats rarely encountered on the continent. With mild weather and a festive atmosphere during weekends it's easy to see why Cuenca has such a large expat population.

MANCORA & THE NORTH, PERU

2012-06-26T00:17:00.001-04:00

Traveling through the never ending desserts of Northern Peru, we finally made it the seaside resort town of Mancora. There is not much to see along the way, only a few dry and dusty small cities.

We first crossed Trujillo, a sleepy outpost in proximity to the more touristy town of Huanchaco, a small beach side resort village with towering waves. Further north, Chiclayo has a pleasant restaurant scene but really not much else. The only attraction we would suggest in the area is the coveted Museo Tumbas Reales Sipan featuring the treasures once belonging to the Mochica civilization who lived between 200 - 700 AD. The museum, rated amongst the 10 best in the world, holds tons of gold jewelery, ornaments and the remains of the Lord of Sipan himself. Hostal Amigo is one of the best, if not the only option in town.

In Mancora we stayed at the Loki Hostel which looked much more like a resort than a hostel. Great food such as the traditional alli de gallina or special menus such as the Mediterranean buffet or barbecued tuna kebab meant we actually ate a large portion of our meals there. Around town there are also a mix of local restaurants offering the usual all starch diet of fried fish with rice and fries, a few burger and pizza joints and some more upscale places.

This destination marked our first initiation to surfing, which regrettably comes after more than 9 months of traveling. Classes at the Mancora Surf Club consisted of a bit of theory and then tossing you out amongst the crashing waves while waiting for the words "ariba" which meant it was time to stand. A brisk start which resulted with a few adventures amongst the sharp coral frantically trying to regain the board as the waves threw us around and hearing pleas from afar by the instructor screaming "levante Juan, levante". Despite many aches and bruises we were hooked. Hopefully in time we can overcome our fears and gain the ability to gracefully ride the waves.

LIMA, PERU

2012-06-22T14:44:00.000-04:00

If traveling to Lima during the winter months (June-August) don't expect to see much sun. Every time it came out we would cheer and stumble out onto the streets to catch a few rays. Although always cloudy, it never rains, making a person walking around with an umbrella clearly a tourist.

Modern and vibrant, we spend the week in the Miraflores neighborhood, roaming the cafes and great seafood restaurants the city has to offer. Lima is said to have one of the best restaurant scenes in the world and we were not disappointed. The chupe, a hot seafood soup, the popular ceviche served with an entré of leche de tigre, and wonderful suchi, are what occupied most of our time. Numerous juice bars throughout the city are also great for a quick lunch and a boost of vitamin C.

We made a short visit to historic central Lima and visited El Museo del Convento de San Francisco which houses catacombs holding over 25,000 bodies. A stop at the nearby Bar Cordano after the visit to savor their stiff pisco sour is a must in order to unwind after visiting the stuffy underground chambers.

We stayed at a small, quiet hostel we recommend, called Condor's House, Besides relaxing between meals we also had the chance to run into many friends whom we had met earlier during the trip. We had a blast spending time with them, adding an unforeseen punch to our stop in the city.

MACHU PICCHU, PERU

2012-06-16T20:12:00.000-04:00

After experiencing frenzied Cusco, we were hesitant in making our way to the ultimate tourist attraction of the region, Machu Picchu. We decided to take the train from Ollantaytambo, one of the cheapest options, costing about $70 each, which is an outrageous amount for a two hour train ride in South America. Another $60 each for the day pass to visit the site and we were ready.

Aguas Caliente, or Machu Picchu town, is set in a beautiful, tropical setting with an raging river running through it. It has tremendous potential but the final result is atrocious. Overrun by tourism with an appearance of having been built overnight, we didn't meet one person who visited the place and had enjoyed the experience. Nearly all restaurants are identical, serving mediocre and overpriced pizza, pasta or grilled meats. We spent two nights ceaselessly being haggled in this ugly, unfriendly town.

We chose to hike up to the ruins instead of taking the bus. Setting off at 5 am we made the steep climb in about an hour, passing many wheezing and sweaty people who struggled up the hill. While short, it is by no means an easy trek. We got to the entrance and lined up with the crowd waiting for the gates to open. Once inside, perched on a hilltop we waited until 7:30 for the sun to rise on Machu Picchu along with all the other visitors snapping away pictures.

Having taken the coveted "myself with Machu Picchu in the background pictures", we headed up the Wayna Picchu, a steep mountain overlooking Machu Picchu. The hike up is vertiginous but the views from above are beautiful. On the way back we visited the rest of the mystical city, getting lost in its winding alleyways and interconnected buildings.

Overall, the location of the site, hidden amongst the surrounding green mountains, is impressive. The constructions, made out of massive rocks fitted one into another and aligned with perfection, are remarkable. Unfortunately the visit itself is rather disorganised, overcrowded and pricey, making the overall experience seem overrated.

CUSCO & SACRED VALLEY, PERU

2012-06-14T13:47:00.000-04:00

Arriving in Cusco we were overwhelmed by the intensity of the city's tourism. It was an obvious shock after experiencing the relative tranquility of Bolivia. The constant haggling from vendors and restaurants quickly annoys, it was like nothing else we had seen in South America. Nevertheless, the city is beautiful, featuring grand colonial buildings built above the original rock solid Inca foundations. Cusco also has all the western treats, such as nice restaurants, many bars, nightlife as well as many fast food chains such as Starbucks and McDonald's, for those feeling homesick.

We took a guided tour to visit the surrounding Inca archeological sites, along with a huge group of nearly 30 other people all following the flag raised above our tour guide's head. It only cost about $5 and now we know why, it's an experience best forgotten. The Cafe de La Paz with its friendly waiter as well as the Pariwana Hostel situated in an old mansion with a great central courtyard, provided us with a much needed oasis in this hectic tourist mecca.

Next, we took a short bus ride to Pisac in the Sacred Valley to visit an Inca citadel perched high up on a mountain. The long and arduous six hour hike and the view below were the highlights as opposed to the rather modest ruins above. The town itself is also pleasant during the afternoon once the busloads of tourists have departed from the town square which hosts an elaborate artisanal market. Ulrike's Cafe which has good food and excellent wifi and the Pisac Inn which makes an excellent pisco sour are both recommend.

Our final stop before heading to Machu Pichu was Ollantaytambo, a beautiful town overlooked by a giant fortress build by the Incas. The sheer size of the site, cut within the mountain side, is highly impressive. It's one of the rare sites where Spanish colonizers lost a major battle against the Incas. The town itself has changed little since precolonial days, with stone block houses and a stream running along its major street. We highly recommend spending some time here in what we consider to be the most pleasant stop in the entire Cusco area.

COPACABANA & ISLA DEL SOL, BOLIVIA

2012-06-08T14:43:00.000-04:00

Copacabana, a small coastal town near the border with Peru, is the launching point for visiting the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca and its main island, Isla del Sol. Besides the fresh trout sold in lakeside restaurants, Copacabana was little more than a touristy stop-over.

The highest navigable lake in the world, Lake Titicaca has cold, clear waters. Clouds seem to barely hang above its surface but somehow find a way to rise over the snow capped mountains spanning the horizon. Isla del Sol, an hour boat ride from Copa, was used by the Incas for religious ceremonies celebrating the Sun God. At this altitude the sun shines hard and during the walk on the Inca trail which crosses the island, encounters with gringos with bright red, sunburned faces is all too common.

We settled for the night on the northern part of the island which has little infrastructure. It was peaceful and quiet with only one restaurant open for dinner and a handful and Argentinians trying to sell freshly baked snacks on the beach. We've grown accustomed to this nuisance encountered in many popular South American vacation spots and we much prefer to encourage the local population than to buy from lingering Argentinians. Most Inca ruins sit on the Northern tip of the island but its recommended to take a guide because the ruins, apart from the large Inca table and fortress, are hard to identify since there is not much information on site.

With no roads or cars the island is an ideal peaceful getaway. We wished we could have spent more time there, preferably on the southern tip which features a better choice of accommodation and restaurants. This was our last destination in Bolivia, after a great three month stay we had to say goodby to a diverse, unique and sometimes complicated country which we've nevertheless grown to appreciate very much.

JUNGLE TOUR, RURRENABAQUE, BOLIVIA

2012-06-02T14:20:00.000-04:00

After a two hour boat trip on the river Beni we entered the jungle ready to explore and hopefully get back in shape after spending three days sitting in a river canoe in the Pampas. It was not to be; although we did continuously wonder through the jungle on foot for several hours per day, the mountains of food served to us kept all sense of well being at bay. After 5 days of eating loads of rice, beans, potatoes, and meat, it felt as we could have dumped in the river and floated downstream like logs all the way back to Rurre.

Walks included tracking down the illusive "chanchos salvajes", wild pigs that have proliferated in the forests. The noise and smell of these packs, often numbering more than 100, is impressive and even scary. The guide's eyes lid up when he encountered a pack as he rushed through the jungle, machete in hand, clearing a path and ordering us to a direct halt as we reached it. The packs are often closely followed by a jaguar which was unfortunately always too well hidden to spot.

Our night of camping under little more than a tarp and mosquito net revealed the sounds of the forest, deafening insects and amphibians as well as the site of giant tarantulas peacefully clinging to trees or footpaths. The daytime forest featured monkeys, macaws, and countless other birds. The camping was interrupted when a storm showed up and flooded the area we were in. The ceaseless rain was warm enough not to ruin the walk back to the boat although stepping through the forest barefoot with water ankle high caused us a bit of anxiety.

The tour operator Mashaquipe was above par, accommodations were clean and comfortable, amazing for such a remote spot, and the guides assigned to us were excellent. The organisation hires locals which have a genuine passion for the forest as well as for getting to know their guests.

Be warned of the following, the extreme humidity will dampen anything in your possession, clothes worn during the treks will be so dirty they'll never look or smell the same again. Nevertheless, mosquitoes aren't abundant and there is no malaria in this part of the Amazon.

The fact is we we not ready to leave. The peacefulness of the surroundings and the beauty of the area captured us. We've arranged another date with the Amazon, hopefully crossing paths again shortly in Ecuador.

MUSIC HITS, SOUTH AMERICA 2

2012-05-30T00:49:00.000-04:00

Here is a just a taste of some cheesy Latino music encountered along the way, just a taste.

MATT PEPE CENTRO DE MIEMBROS ARTIFICIALES, LA PAZ, BOLIVIA

2012-05-21T13:49:00.000-04:00

We volunteered for one month at the Matthew Pepe Centro de Miembros Artificiales, a non for profit organisation associated with the Rotary Club which provides artificial prosthetic legs for people who do not have the means to obtain one.

Our tasks were multiple, Vanessa spending her time helping on the patient side due to her training as a healthcare professional and I in administrative functions. The bulk of our work ended up being coordinating a visit from another organisation named LIMBS based in Texas, USA who are responsible for inventing the prosthetic knee used at the Bolivian clinic.

During LIMBS's two week visit it was busy time and we learned a great deal about prosthetics and the challenges faced when implementing such devises in developing countries. Also, our stay at the clinic ended up being a great experience in cultural exchange and in observing the difference in methods of working here in Bolivia.

The hospitality received from the local members of the CMA was far beyond our expectations. The managing members of the clinic, who are also volunteers, show a great deal of devotion to the cause and this has resulted in great success rapid growth in the number of patients served. Matt, the founder of the clinic, from the United States, is the driving force and inspiration behind the effort.

After seeing patients first walking in with homemade artisanal limbs and then seeing their reaction when they walk out with a new, modern prosthetic it's easy to see the benefits the organisation brings. It's the first of its kind in South America and hopefully will inspire more to develop in the future. We strongly recommend those who wish to volunteer to give this organisation a close look, and to get in touch with them to see how you can help.

LA PAZ, BOLIVIA

2012-05-17T13:03:00.000-04:00

When entering the city of La Paz, located high up in the Andes at a dizzying 3,300 m, the first thing that strikes you are the city's crowded streets filled with vendors selling any type of knockoff clothing imaginable. The frenzy of its downtown creates an immediate level of excitement.

We were told various negative stories of the city relating to security or lack of character but non of them proved to be true. Compact and urban, La Paz ended up having all the right attributes. Its restaurants boasted a cuisine that proved one the best so far. We particularly enjoyed La Coca with its $3 four course lunch menu, La Guinguette a modern French bistro, The Steakhouse for a great JD Steak, La Costilla del Diablo for the one of the best burgers of all time and our afternoon visits to Oliver's travels for a pint and a chat with friendly expats.

La Paz also has a tremendous nightlife, one of the reasons why so many foreigners get stuck there for much longer than they had anticipated. Staying at the Loki Hostel didn't help. Clean, modern but very noisy; after over 10 days of exhausting partying we had to move on to better things.

A weekend side trip to Coroico in the Yungas about two hours from the city revitalised us. A small pleasant town with a tropical climate with coffee and banana plantations is the perfect place to relax. The only down side are the veracious sand flies that come out at dusk and bite pieces of flesh off.

Finally we end with a general warning, Pacenos are "special" drivers. When put behind the wheel in the midst of congested city streets they transform from shy, passive individuals to angry, jittery chauffeurs. Driving in the outskirts, they swerve to the opposite side of the highway, often taking wide curves in the opposite lane of a windy road and keeping that lane for an extended period of time. We could never figure out the reason behind that urge to drive on the opposite side of the road. So if planning to tour the area extensively gather up all your courage and cool nerves or just keep your eyes shut. Better yet, look twice before crossing any intersection, red or green light and if traveling longer distances in the country, take the plane!

CONDOR TREKKERS, SUCRE, BOLIVIA

2012-05-12T15:42:00.002-04:00

Condor Trekkers is a non for profit group that organises excursions to the remote countryside surrounding the city of Sucre. We joined a small group totaling six hikers, a local guide, and an English speaking volunteer and set out on a four day trek covering approximately 20 km per day. It wasn't an easy walk by any means, wearing Converse runners and carrying 15 kilos of food on our backs, but the experience was well worth the aches and pains.

The trek sets out high up in the remote countryside of the Cordilleras about one hour outside of the city. During the hike you enter many remote villages in the Andes where most of the population speaks solely Quechua, a local indigenous language. We visited caves which reveal prehistoric rock paintings and walked across the mountain range through rolling landscapes of parched fields, glacial rivers and barren mountain tops. We particularly enjoyed spending the night in the Maragua Crater and stepping in the footsteps of dinosaurs who left their prints there millions of years ago. The entire region boasts rugged terrain and road transportation is nearly nonexistent in most areas therefore the only way to visit is on foot.

Accommodation consisted of sleeping in rustic lodges with no heating or hot water but overall very comfortable. Sleeping bags and tents can also be provided at no extra cost. Meals prepared by the guide and volunteer where plentiful, tasteful and easily made up for the calories spent walking.

We joined this trek purely out of luck, if it would not have been for the Belgian girls from the hostel who invited us we probably would not have gone. We had a great time with the group of people we hiked with and a great experience with Condor Trekkers who were professional and provided excellent service. We were fortunate to have the opportunity to discover a less visited part of the continent, a part where people's way of life has not changed much in a very long time.