"It is a rare pleasure to restore a timepiece. Setting it free from the ravages of time and man"

Michel Parmigiani, Parmigiani founder and Maurice Sandoz Collection restorer

A selection of beautiful pieces from the personal collection of Swiss writer, composer and timepiece enthusiast Maurice Sandoz (1892-1958), Mechanical Wonders opened for the first time in over 50 years to collectors and connoisseurs of watches, automatons, Fabergé and rare objets d’art. The exhibits were first displayed on 26 October, around the same time as we turned back time one hour on our winter watches and clocks, our faces firmly set to the future.

Continuing until 10 December, the exhibition features marvels of bygone centuries of design and technical know-how, as celebrated pieces such as Faberge’s Imperial Peacock and Swan Eggs, and Parmigiani’s contemporary Tori Minute Repeater and Oval Watch with Telescopic Hands rightfully stole the show.

Saluting Russian art history

History has been kind to A La Vieille Russie. Founded in Kiev in 1851, it was re-established in 1920s Paris before opening in New York 90 years later in 1941. Under the stewardship of the Schaffer family, A La Vieille Russie is known worldwide for its collection of rare Russian treasures and tradition of fine art and antiques dealing. Goldsmith and jeweller to Carl Fabergé – legendary Russian creator of the famous Fabergé eggs – A La Vieille Russie are international experts on his works.

Located on the corner of Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue and 59^th Street, the gallery maintains a strong exhibition schedule both as exhibitors and lenders, part of its attraction for Parmigiani’s extensive haute horology collection and the justified setting for this rare outing of Maurice Sandoz’ private pieces.

Coinciding with the launch of its first bilingual Russian-English edition, TOUT Magazine gracefully accepted our personal invitation to this unique celebration of watchmaking art. The first floor was dedicated to elegant Parmigiani watch displays while the remaining space housed Mechanical Wonders, a selection of masterpieces we highlight here.

Mechanical Wonders in the making

Having enjoyed the privilege of watchmaking training and witnessing 450 years of watchmaking history, Michel Parmigiani restored the Maurice Sandoz Collection driven by his undiminishing passion for restoring renowned creations. As he enthusiastically describes: “It is a rare pleasure to restore a timepiece. Setting it free from the ravages of time and man equates to bringing it back as a temporal truth essential to our memory.”

MLW 2011 program Download

The world finally saw the most mysterious and long-awaited Spring-Summer Collection from Tom Ford.

The presentation of Tom Ford's Spring-Summer Collection at New York was kept a total secret. Only the chosen few, among them  show business stars and editors of  leading glossy magazines, were able to enjoy this great contemporary designer’s latest creations.

Sitting comfortably in elegant bamboo chairs, well-known fashion journalists including Anna Wintour, Nina Garcia, Cathy Horyn and Karin Roytfeld - among only about one hundred guests - admired the exquisite design masterpieces and the maestro himself personally announced each output.

Finally the long-awaited moment arrived: the video of the show, filmed by Ford's team, as well as great photos made exclusively by another designer, Terry Richardson, are now available to a wide circle of couture connoisseurs.

Supermodels Karen Elson, Liu Wen, Karlie Kloss, Anja Rubik, Daria Verbova, Natalia Vodianova, Lakshmi Menon were among those, together with actresses Lauren Hutton, Julianne Moore, Rinko Kikuchi, singer Beyonce, socialite Daphne Guinness and other celebrities who modeled the Spring/Summer Collection. Asked about his choice of models for the premiere, Tom Ford commented laconically: "These are women who inspire me.

Farida Khelfa appeared in a white asymmetrical maxi dress, Rinko Kikuchi displayed soft pink slippers and a silk translucent colored dress with velvet trim grapefruit, while Beyonce appeared in an embroidered gold sequin dress, with Daphne Guinness wearing a chic slinky "leopard" outfit.

So what does Tom Ford offer this Spring and Summer?

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As always, Tom Ford is betting on femininity, setting the tone with seductive silhouettes, deep cuts, luxurious leopard prints, fringes and shiny finishes. As for fabrics, the collection is dominated by the lightest silk and translucent fabrics. There is no doubt: the woman dressing in Tom Ford's clothes is destined to be in the spotlight. One-of-a-kind clothes inspired by the brilliance and shine of the 70s bring excitement and euphoria. Exquisite trouser suits, leather jackets, fringes, corsets and accessories are also designed to please the brand’s fans.

"Fashion should make people happy" Ford did not tire of repeating. Well, the best way to meet this requirement is to buy this most exclusive summer collection for yourself.

Probably the most iconic of all Spanish wines, Rioja, is enjoying a renaissance thanks to modern wine making techniques, and innovative approaches from some of the region’s wine makers.

Cathedrals

The ‘Camino de Santiago’ or St. James’ Way as it is also known, is probably one of the most ancient routes that cuts through the region. Taken by pilgrims over the centuries, the route passes through beautiful mediaeval cathedral cities.

Yet now there is a new route bringing visitors on a new pilgrimage; the

wines tasting routes of Rioja that take in modern cathedrals of wine; architect designed wineries and bodegas that attract almost as much attention as the wines made within their climate controlled walls.

Rioja

Rioja is a ‘Denominación de Origen Calificada’ wine, matured in oak barrels from France and the USA, although some wineries are experimenting with great success with oak barrels from Hungary. Although Rioja has always traditionally been defined by its rich oak flavour, now one finds that the wines are more modern - reflecting the palate of a new generation of international buyers. ‘Tempranillo’, the well known Spanish grape is the basis of Rioja wine, blended with small amounts of ‘Graciano’ and ‘Mazuelo’. In addition, with showing innovation by the region’s wine makers, one also sees the use of ‘Merlot’ and ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’.

Tasting

The choice of wineries in Rioja which offer tastings is immense, but no visit to this fine wine making area should miss the striking wineries of ‘Marqués de Riscal’ and ‘YSIOS’, both near the town of Elciego. Both boast architect designed wineries that in themselves are worthy of a visit for anyone interested in design, architecture and culture.

Marqués de Riscal

Guests can enjoy a complete tour of the winery; discover the historical development of the site from the mid 19th century to the 21st century; catch a glimpse of some of the wineries most ancient wines still lying under years of dust in the cool cellars; see the state-of-the-art new computer controlled winery; and of course finish off with tastings of some Marqués de Riscal wines.

Their classic 2006 Reserva is a good choice, made predominantly from grapes from tempranillo vines over 15 years’ old, grown in the best clay-limestone soils of the Rioja Alavesa. This variety withstands oak- and bottle- ageing well thanks to its good balance of acidity and fine tannin. A small amount of Graciano and Mazuelo grapes are also used, (not more than 10%) to provide crispness and a lively colour.

This reserva spends around two years in American-oak casks, producing a wine which corresponds to the classic Rioja style: fresh, fine, elegant and very suitable for laying down for many years. Before release for sale it spends a minimum of one year rounding off in the bottle.

And one must not forget the iconic hotel, Marqués de Riscal, a Luxury Collection Hotel, designed by Frank O. Gehry; together with its stunning wellness centre, the Spa Vinothérapie® Caudalie Marqués de Riscal.

The hotel’s waves of titanium cladding are intended to reflect the signature colours of Marqués de Riscal: the rich red of the wine; the elegant gold of the iconic Rioja mesh on the Riscal bottles, and silver representing the top of each bottle. In the restaurant one can enjoy a multi-course tasting menu with various white and red Rioja wines.

Ysios

The Bodegas Ysios was amongst the first of the Rioja wine makers to commission a world-class architect to create a signature building. The Santiago Calatrava designed building is inspired by the shape of oak wine barrels. The 75 hectares of vineyards owned by Bodegas Ysios are set in the highest area of La Rioja, stretching across the localities of Laguardia and El Villar.

Tasting wines here is a true privilege; with a choice of fine premium reservas that are made from 100% Tempranillo, the Riojan variety par excellence. One of the most characteristic features of their vineyards is the small plot size, with plots of land ranging from 0.5 to 4 hectares, enabling the wine maker to provide specific care to each vineyard, according to its own individual character. For professional tasters, there is also the opportunity to take a ‘Master Class’, tasting wines that are still undergoing aging.

Interestingly, the bodega’s name pays specific homage to Isis and Osiris, two Egyptian gods closely related to the world of wine.

Rioja; a place of pilgrimage for those that wish to worship in the cathedrals of wine making, paying homage to one of Europe’s greatest wines.

www.marquesderiscal.com

www.ysios.com