Trailer Park Living. Trailer, RV, 5th Wheel, Motorcoach Resources.

OnTheAvenues SEO

2009-09-23T13:22:00.001-07:00

Great place for information related to SEO, search engine optimization as it relates to web sites, blogs, and using SEO techniques for social networking and more. Latest news, processes and answers to questions to help you perform better on the internet by knowing how to use the proper resources

in reference to: Facebook | OnTheAvenues (view on Google Sidewiki)

Best Forex Program Reviews. Top Forex Software Reviews.

2009-09-23T10:17:00.001-07:00

Unbiased Forex Software Reviews, Forex Program Reviews. Using the best Forex software will net you more in forex returns!

in reference to:

"Best Forex Program Reviews. Top Forex Software Reviews.Unbiased Forex Software Reviews, Forex Program Reviews. Using the best Forex software will net you more in forex returns!"
- Best Forex Program Reviews. Top Forex Software Reviews. (view on Google Sidewiki)

Trailer Life. RV Living

2009-09-23T10:15:00.003-07:00

For People On The Road! Resource Guide For Trailers, 5th Wheels, MotorCoach. Trailer Living honors those folks who enjoy the freedom of being able to pick up and go whenever they wish. From trailer humor, trailer park living tips to useful RV, 5th wheel, motorcoach info to trailer parks and National parks information, RV cooking and so much more. We make trailer living and RV-ing hip, cool and fun.

in reference to: Trailer Life. RV, 5th Wheel, Motorcoach Resources. (view on Google Sidewiki)

Trailer Life. RV Living

2009-09-23T10:15:00.001-07:00

in reference to: Trailer Life. RV, 5th Wheel, Motorcoach Resources. (view on Google Sidewiki)

Turn Your Mini Van Into An RV

2009-08-31T13:24:00.000-07:00

Do-It-Yourself RV. Turning Your Mini Van Into An RV

A 2006 Toyota Sienna minivan can be converted with minimal effort from soccer-mom special to RV Lite

What do you do when your itch to travel extends for thousands of miles, but your budget won’t support all those nights in hotels? For a trip across the United States and back earlier this summer, my husband and I found the solution in an RV Lite — a Toyota Sienna minivan that we converted with little cost or effort into our own smaller, stripped-down version of the old Volkswagen Vanagons we remembered from the 1970s.

For years we’d played with the idea of buying a real recreational vehicle. But price tags were discouraging: $70,000 to $125,000 for either a motorized version we liked or a combination of a small but well-made trailer and a truck to pull it. We didn’t want to buy used, fearing breakdowns. And there was the issue of fuel economy, which loomed large after the oil shock of 2008.

So we downsized the dream.

Our Sienna is a standard 2006 model with three rows of seats. We removed the middle and back rows, which are bolted into place and can be easily reinstalled anytime, and were left with a large open space, about 4 feet 6 inches wide and 8 feet long.

The first six feet back became the cargo area by day and — with luggage moved to the front seats — the bedroom at night. We looked at folding cots and inflatable mattresses but settled on using two flip-out foam beds that we’d bought years ago for visiting children to sleep on. The van has vent-style back windows — good for ventilation at night — and lots of storage cubbies and cup holders that we stuffed with handy items. For lighting, we found solar lanterns that use D batteries as storage cells. Leaving them near a window in the daytime kept them charged up for nighttime use.

The van also has privacy glass: reflective windows that work like one-way mirrors to the outside, so that it’s difficult for anyone to see in. Still, we did put up a couple of curtains at night, hung on pressure rods.

We bought a tiny camp stove but never used it. Moving fast over a lot of territory replete with cheap restaurants, we decided not to fuss with hot meals. For cold food, like sandwiches and breakfast cereal with milk, we carried a picnic-style Coleman cooler advertised as keeping ice for five days in hot weather. It almost did.

And that left just one issue, the elephant in the room: plumbing.

Camping does not have to be primitive. Many campgrounds all over the country, both public and private, have clean, well maintained flush toilets and hot showers. Using Internet sites and camping guides (especially AAA camp books, which worked well for our needs), we stuck to these places. But still, most people also like something of their own.

Behind the area where we made up our beds, our van has a shallow well of space where the rear seats normally fold down. We chose to view this as a separate room: the bathroom. Fortunately, the technology of portable toilets is now impressive in two vital respects: ease of cleaning and discretion, both visual and olfactory. We purchased something called an Envirolet, from Sancor Industries of Toronto, a tad pricey but on the cutting edge of these advances. We also found a portable plastic sink, folding to briefcase size, with separate compartments for clean and gray water and even a tiny mirror.

An RV Lite wouldn’t work for some people: the plus-size family we once saw at an RV show, for example, who squeezed into a small trailer and joked that once in, they’d never get out. But for us, the minivan was cozy and functional. And, running at 25 to 30 miles per gallon, economical enough so that we felt no guilt at all about staying every third or fourth night in a hotel.
By BARBARA IRELAND Published: August 30, 2009

RV Breakdown. Be Prepared For RV Breakdown Check List

2009-08-21T12:01:00.000-07:00

RV breakdown 101: Don’t let this happen to you! Be Prepared For RV Breakdown Check List

It happens to everyone at one time or another. Your RV or towing vehicle breaks down and you are hundreds of miles from home…now what are you gonna do? Hopefully, you are not driving when something goes wrong. That would be a disaster. You can’t hide but you can be prepared! Here are a few things to have along for the ride, just the basics now; you can’t take the whole garage or workshop:

• Set of combination wrenches open and box ends
• Flashlight and extra batteries
• Screwdrivers, flat and Phillips, several sizes
• Spare electrical wire in different gauge sizes, wire crimper, connectors and wire splicers
• Ratchet & socket sets
• Pliers, needlenose, regular, slip-joint water pump, locking pliers
• Heavy duty jumper cables, the longer the better
• One pound hammer
• Spark plug socket (get one that fits your engine’s size)
• Electrical test light or volt-ohm meter

Okay, you have the tools, but they won’t do you any good unless you have a small arsenal of spare parts. It’s a good idea to take along:

• Roll of duct tape and rags
• Can of radiator stop-leak
• Fuel filter just in case you get a tank of dirty or water-contaminated gasoline
• Engine drive belts, very inexpensive, and if one breaks, you are stuck
• Upper and lower radiator hoses, clamps and a few feet of heater hose
• Fuses and fusible links
• Motor oil and automatic transmission fluid, brake fluid, antifreeze
• Last but not least a starter

Are you wondering why anyone would need to take a “starter”? Well, if you sorta, kinda think that your starter could just may be on its last leg you better replace it before you leave or carry a spare. If it sounds like the voice of experience here, you got that right! We were overnight in Tennessee on our way to Florida, got up at 5:00 a.m. to be on the road early, and click, click, no starter. Lucky for us it gave up while we were parked at a campground and not on the side of the road, or at a restaurant. And since I never go RVing without my handy-dandy-hunky mechanic (a.k.a. husband) our delay was only about 45 minutes long. Fortunately for us, we had a junior mechanic along to help out!

The moral of this story is, if you sorta, kinda think something could go wrong you may just want to fix it before you leave home!

Cleveland RVing Examiner

How RV Trailer Hitches Work

2009-08-19T20:08:00.000-07:00

How Trailer Hitches Work

Whether you have a compact car or lifted diesel-powered 4X4, a trailer hitch is a vital part for towing any load. It is crucial to have the right tow-setup for your vehicle, so today I'm going to cover the basics of towing and the different types of trailer hitch setups to simplify your search for the perfect hitch.

If you own a car, your towing capacity will obviously be lower than if you owned a truck. The first thing you need to know is the towing capacity of your vehicle. This information can be found in the owner's manual. Most cars can tow around 3,000 pounds safely, while some trucks are built to tow loads of up to 30,000 pounds! The second thing you need to know is how much weight you need to tow. If you don't know the exact weight, you can try to estimate it to see if the total weight you'll be towing is within the specifications set forth by your vehicles manufacturer. If you can't reasonably estimate it, get some help and have the load towed to a scale so you can get the exact weight.

It is important to remember that safe towing involves a number of different elements: not only does your vehicle need to get the load up to a safe speed, but it also needs to be able to control that weight. When towing a load, brakes are just as if not more important than engine horsepower and torque because if you can't safely stop the vehicle, then you shouldn't be towing a load that heavy. So you need to evaluate the current condition of the brake system on your car or truck. Have the brakes been maintained properly? When was the last time you had the brake fluid changed? The last thing you want when towing is a brake system failure. You also need to think about where you are going to be driving. Are you going to be towing up or down hills? How windy do you expect it to be? Will the pavement be dry or wet? How much traffic do you have to navigate through to safely reach your destination? For the safety of you, what you're towing, and everybody else on the road, all these questions should be thought about and answered before you ever hitch something up to your vehicle.

For cars, towing setups are fairly simple because you can't tow that much weight. You'll need a trailer hitch, also known as a trailer hitch receiver, a trailer ball mount, and a trailer hitch ball. Hitch balls come in three sizes: 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". A 2" ball with a 1" diameter shank is the most common size used for towing small and medium sized trailers. However, double check the size of the ball you need for towing and make sure the balls shank fits snuggly in the ball mount you are using. You will also want the trailer-hitch connection to be near level, but with a slight downward angle toward the car. This will help evenly distribute the weight and reduce trailer sway. Trailer ball mounts come in different sizes, make sure to choose one that will work well for your situation.

For trucks, there are far more towing accessories to choose from. In this article, I will only be covering the most common types used today. Some trucks have trailer hitches built into their rear bumper, others have a normal trailer hitch installed on them from the factory, and others will lack a trailer hitch all together. You'll need to evaluate what your truck has and go from there. Hitch ball sizes are the same: another tow option usually found on trailers which are intended for heavy loads use what's called a pindle hitch. A pindle hitch is basically a donut or ring which is made of thick steel that can handle the extreme torsional stress. Larger trucks also have 5th wheel mounting points in the bed of the truck, to which a 5th wheel hitch can be mounted. 5th wheels are used for hauling very heavy loads because it uses a much stronger hitch connection and because it centers the weight on the vehicle between the axles. This keeps the truck from tipping over backwards once it's loaded. Similar to a 5th wheel is the gooseneck hitch. A gooseneck hitch also attaches to the bed of the truck and thus centers the trailers weight, but a gooseneck hitch uses a traditional ball-style hitch rather than the 5th wheel-style of hitch connection. If you are towing a really heavy load, you might want to purchase a weight distribution system or stabilizer bars to help reduce or eliminate trailer sway.

I hope this article helps clarify the different types of trailer hitches and makes you think about some important aspects of towing loads. Remember, safety is the name of the game.

Click on the following links for more information about trailer hitches, 5th wheel hitch, gooseneck hitch, trailer hitch, or hitch bike racks.

RV Tire Failure 101

2009-08-19T10:24:00.000-07:00

RV Tire Failure 101

RV are by far the most important and most neglected link in the system. I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve heard people say that the tires on their RV were defective, or my tires only had 12,000 miles on them when I had a blowout. In the majority of cases the truth of the matter is that tire maintenance has been neglected. The only thing between your RV and the road surface is your tires and the air that is in them. This is the weakest link.

What are some of the leading causes of premature tire failure?

• Overloading the tires

• Under inflated tires

• Ozone and UV rays

• Age of the tires

• Rotating tires

Tire failure can be extremely dangerous and can cause extensive damage to your RV. There are no guarantees, but by practicing good tire maintenance you can feel much safer and secure that the weakest link on your RV will do its job while you’re out exploring this wonderful country we live in.

Happy Camping,

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/

Mark Polk is a retired U.S. Army Chief Warrant Officer Three, specializing in wheeled and track vehicle fleet maintenance operations. In addition to owning and operating RV Education 101, (based in North Carolina) since 1999, Polk also has a very extensive RV background working in RV service, sales and management. Polk has a degree in Industrial Management Technology and his 30 plus years of experience in maintenance includes working as an RV technician, a wheeled vehicle and power generation mechanic, an automotive maintenance technician, Battalion and Brigade level Maintenance Officer, an RV sales manager and also in the RV financing department as the Finance & Insurance manager. http://www.rveducation101.com/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_Polk

Reasons to Buy a Fifth Wheel as Your RV

2009-08-05T15:31:00.001-07:00

4.5 Secret Reasons to Buy a Fifth Wheel as Your RV

All of us have been through this before... you decided to get an RV but are overwhelmed by the sheer number of styles- let alone makes and models. There are too many "ifs, ands & buts" to make a clear decision this early in your learning curve. So, how do you choose the best one?

In my opinion, the 5th Wheel (or Fifth Wheel) offers a lot of advantages that the other styles do not. Actually, I believe there are 4.5 compelling reasons to consider a 5th Wheel over the main competitors; Class A B and C's, Travel Trailers, Campers, Camper Vans, Slide-Ins, SURV, or Buses.

Without further ado, here are the 4.5 Reasons to Buy a Fifth Wheel as your RV:

1. You don't have a cabin ruining your space.

You are only using the cabin while you are driving, which is a rare time in most RVers vacation. So, why have your whole RV built around your cabin? Why not make better use of that space and put a couch or desk up there instead? In a 5th-Wheel, you can!

2. More layout options:

Since you don't have all of the engine, transmissions, and more, you can design your space to work better for you. There are so many ways a fifth-wheel can be set up, you can find a style that suits you better than in a classic RV.

3. No Need to Tow Another Vehicle:

You have a separate vehicle already with you all the time. All you have to do is unhitch your 5th Wheel and you are off the grocery, a restaurant, or a night on the town. Never worry about your tow dolly, a car-in-tow, or pulling a second vehicle like you would have to with an RV.

4. Provides Better Value:

You already have a truck, so why buy a whole new engine, transmission, and all of that? Using your truck to pull means there is one less vehicle to worry about in your life. Less worry means more time to sit back and enjoy your new 5th Wheel.

4.5 Easier to Inspect and Buy:

You don't need quite as much information when looking to buy one of these used. Actually, as long as you use your noggin and a good Used RV Buying Guide , you should have no trouble getting a good deal on one of these. But, make sure to get a good buying guide or you might get a lemon!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Frank_Fairview

How To Buy Repossessed RVs at RV Auctions

2009-08-05T15:28:00.000-07:00

How To Buy Repossessed RVs at RV Auctions

If you've ever been interested in buying a repossessed RV, now is the time. The sudden turn in the economy has led to foreclosure on thousands of high-quality RVs. There's an abundance of RV auctions taking place all across the country. Many people dream of owning an RV, and right now there isn't a single reason to hesitate because the opportunity to purchase the perfect RV has never been better.

Like any savvy consumer, you'll most likely have questions how to buy repossessed RVs. Repossessed RVs are similar to repossessed cars-they've been repo-ed by the lender after the owner has defaulted on payments. When this occurs, the RV goes to a live or silent auction. But like you would with any great deal, you'll need to know where to find the auction RVs. Repossessed RV auctions can be found by asking a local RV dealer or looking online or in the newspaper. Most of the time at these auctions, you will be given the opportunity to check out the repossessed RVs and inquire about their features. Another added benefit of buying a repo is that you don't have to pay much extra for the added features. And one notable thing that sets repossessed RVs apart from repossessed cars is that they don't lose their value as dramatically.

The most important thing to do when you're bidding on repossessed RVs is make yourself as knowledgeable as possible so that you get exactly what you're looking for and nothing less. You'll want to research the market value of new RVs, so that when you're making your selection. We recommend using the Kelley blue book and the Nada value guides for determining the value. And you'll also want to inspect both the interiors and exteriors, particularly for signs of water damage and unusual amounts of wear and tear.

There are many ways to prepare for an auction, from reading guide books, to cruising through RV lots, and of course relying on friends and family members who have experience buying RVs as well. Repossessed RVs will bring you savings that can't be beat. Just decide what you want, how much you're willing to pay, and find an auction where you can bid on repossessed RVs. You'll be on the road in no time.
For more information on buying Repossessed RVs at RV Auctions come visit our site!

RV Stabilizer Installation. RV Stabilizer Installation Video

2009-08-05T15:25:00.000-07:00

Do I Need a Caravan Stabilizer? RV Caravan Stabilizer. RV Stabilizer Installation and RV stabilizer installation video

Anyone new to towing a caravan will feel a little nervous the first time out and will undoubtedly be a little slow and exaggerated in their actions like reversing and turning corners. But as you gain more experience you will become more confident with towing and what exactly you are able to do with the caravan behind you. This learning curve is something all new caravanners had to go through but by attaching a caravan stabiliser to their van it can make the experience a little less hair raising. This is not to say that if you have a stabiliser fitted you will become experienced at towing and it defiantly doesn't mean that if you have a caravan stabilizer fitted you can do more things with your caravan.

To better understand why a RV stabilizer is a good purchase for new and experienced caravanners alike you should first understand the 3 main causes of instability.

The first and most common cause of instability is snaking. Most if not all caravan owners will have experienced snaking at one time or another and in different grades of severity. Snaking is when your caravan moves side to side behind the car and is most often caused by excessive speed but speed alone won't cause snaking. It usually takes an external force like the change in pressure caused when a lorry over takes added to excessive speed before snaking occurs.

The second cause of instability is caravan roll which happens when one wheel of the caravan leave the ground. This rocking from one wheel to the other is commonly seen when snaking becomes uncontrollable and really needs to be kept under control for obvious reasons. There are other occasions when a caravan is in danger of rolling other than snaking including for example when it has been packed poorly with heavy items at the top or all on the one side, but these can easily be avoided by taking time and being sure you pack the caravan properly.

The third cause of caravan instability is pitching which basically happens when the caravan starts rocking backwards and forwards at the hitching point. Pitching isn't really that but like other forms of caravan instability you need to know what it is and how to minimise it while towing. It is normally caused by potholes and severe dips in the road and speed ramps, not something that is easy to avoid in modern day driving.

Caravan stabilisers were designed primarily to help stop snaking as this was the most common problem when towing high sided trailers, like caravans. As far as the other forms of insatiability and preventing them, the stabilizer will also help out. Caravan roll often happens in an uncontrollable snaking situation, therefore if you reduce the effects and occurrences of snaking you'll help stop roll. Pitching is something different all together but with modern 4 pad ball type stabilizers or blade type stabilizers pitching can often be reduced hugely.

So to answer the original question asked in the title, well that's really easy a simple yes always does but with an added word of caution. A caravan stabiliser is a great way to add an extra layer of safety and stability when towing a caravan and it will help a great deal with driver comfort. However it should never be used as a way to skip the need for good caravan towing skills.

Karl is a keen caravanner and blogs about the caravan stabilizer among some other things. At present he has an Al Ko Stabiliser but writes about more than just the one.

How To Build A 5th Wheel

2009-08-05T15:24:00.000-07:00

How To Build A 5th Wheel

Great video on how a 5th wheel was personally built. Watch this step by step video on building your own 5th Wheel

Search Engine Optimization Sock Troll On The Loose

2009-03-01T22:27:00.001-08:00

Search Engine Optimization Sock Troll Alert!!

What is a search engine optimization sock troll you may ask. Well, it is not a what, it is a he. A man, who likes to to do seo (search engine optimization), loses his socks in the dryer and is far from troll looking. Sure, he may be in the same biz as I am. But that doesn't man I can't respect him as a human being, even if he is a search engine optimization sock troll.

You see, not all SEO professionals are alike. Some, like me with far to many years of experience need to help and guide out underlings, such as my dear friend the search engine optimization sock troll.

So, with great pride, I introduce you to my fellow SEO guy: his name is not important, but his seo identity is: search engine optimization sock troll, and you can visit him at ArteWorks

Healthiest Housing Markets for 2009

2009-02-24T09:13:00.001-08:00

The Healthiest Housing Markets for 2009
Builder, in conjunction with Hanley Wood Market Intelligence, debuts its metric for determining markets with the best and least potential.
By: Boyce Thompson

With most economists and builders expecting a national market decline this year, this may not seem like the best time to be selecting the "healthiest" markets in the country. Virtually every market was down last year. But a close look at the numbers reveals that some markets have way outperformed others during the last four years and are likely to continue to do so this year.

When the housing market stages its official recovery, the markets listed on the following pages are likely to lead the parade. It may take a year or more for the weakest markets--where burgeoning foreclosure sales are still pounding new home values, making building and selling new homes an exercise in futility-- to finally stage a turnaround. We’ll present that list next week.

The healthiest markets have many things in common. Most of them are great places to live, either close to the ocean, mountains, or major universities. Most of them didn’t have a huge run-up in prices during the boom and aren’t experiencing rampant deflation during the bust.

To compile these lists, we analyzed the top 75 housing markets in the country. We ranked them based on population trends and job growth, perennial drivers of housing demand. We also examined what’s happened with home prices; many of the healthiest markets have managed to hold the line on home values. And finally, we considered the rate building permits, which may be the single best ongoing indicator of builder confidence in a market. We combined all these metrics to produce a score for each market. Here are the top 15, in reverse order.

15. Myrtle Beach, S.C.
2008 total building permits: 3,211

Though permit activity dropped sharply last year, Myrtle Beach remains one of the hottest markets in the country, especially when you analyze the number of permits pulled per resident. Only 263,287 people live in the Myrtle Beach metro area, which until recently had been growing its population by nearly 5 percent a year. That means builders pulled one permit for every 82 residents. A steady influx of people, many of them retirees, are drawn by close proximity to the ocean and 117 golf courses at last count. That has helped keep home prices steady; they fell only 10 percent last year to a very affordable $174,800. Most of the home building is split between Brunswick and New Hanover counties. Jobs are dependent on the tourist industry, though, and the metro area was rocked last year when a $400 million rock-and-roll themed amusement part, Hard Rock Park, opened and then filed for bankruptcy. Myrtle Beach added jobs last year, but as of December employment was decreasing at a 4.2 percent rate compared to a year earlier.

14. Wilmington, N.C.
2008 total building permits: 3,551

Wilmington has the second highest ratio of permits pulled per resident, behind only Myrtle Beach. The population here, 352,919 by Census estimates, has been growing at a 4 percent annual rate for the last five years, well above the national average. Primary residents are drawn by a four-season climate, close proximity to Atlantic beaches, and affordable housing. Median home prices, at $198,700, are just about the national average. The area gave back 1,000 jobs last year, after gaining 19,000 the previous three years. Wilmington has had a 60 percent decline in permit activity since 2005, around the national average, but its track record for population growth helps it make this list.

13. Charlotte, N.C.
2008 total building permits: 12,231

People and businesses must love Charlotte, because they are moving there at a high rate. The metro area of 1.74 million has grown its residents by 4 percent annually over the last five years, one of the highest rates in the country. They are drawn by relatively affordable housing for the east coast—median home prices are only $210,900, and they’ve only "corrected" downward by only 4.2 percent in the last year. A strong fourth quarter helped Charlotte record 12,231 permits last year, only a 44 percent decline since 2005. Charlotte’s strength relative to other markets led the investment banking firm UBS to predict last year that it would be one of the first markets to recover from the housing downturn. Charlotte is still a single-family market, with 62 percent of the residential activity in stand-alone homes. The job market in this banking hub contracted last year, after growing 3 to 5 percent annually the previous three years.

12. Denver, Col. 2008 total building permits: 8,800

Denver has been all over the home building news of late, with Beazer and Centex leaving town, then Village Homes of Colorado declaring bankruptcy. But the market hasn’t been hit as hard by the home building recession as other Western markets, in part because it didn’t experience rampant price appreciation during the boom. That’s partly because there’s lots of land available to develop in Denver. The median price of an existing home here was still an affordable $225,100 in the third quarter of last year, down only 11.4 percent in the last year (through 3Q 08). Denver enjoys one of the highest population growth rates in the country--2 percent annually for each of the last five years. Builders pulled 8,800 permits in Denver last year, down from 20,864 in 2005, a percentage decline that’s close to the national average. Denver is buoyed by a strong commercial real estate market.

11. Nashville, Tenn. 2008 total building permits: 8,142

Nashville, the 20th largest home building market, operated under the radar of the national housing boom. It didn’t ramp up wildly during the boom years, and it’s not contracting viciously during the bust. Median home prices remain an affordable $152,100, propped up by a growing job base. Eighty percent of the residential construction is single-family. Some of the market’s resilience stems from above-average population growth of about 2.3 percent a year. Back in the day, 2005, Nashville accounted for 16,654 permits; it now runs at about half that level. But that’s a better performance than most major markets.

10. Washington DC 2008 total building permits: 11,693

Washington D.C. showed signs last summer that it might be emerging from the downturn, then it turned south again. Even so, the area produces a ton of jobs—an estimated 35,000 in the last year—that fuel a vibrant housing market, the 11th largest in the country. Many of the jobs stem from contracts with the federal government. Washington D.C. remains a relatively unaffordable place to live, with a median home price of $332,700 in the third quarter of last year. But values have fallen only 24 percent in the last year in part because the population continues to grow—an average of 1 percent annually over the last five years. Home building patterns have changed dramatically in the nation’s capital with builders mothballing subdivisions well beyond the beltway and focusing on infill opportunities. The region remains one of the worst in the nation for commuters.

9. Fayetteville, Ark. 2008 total building permits: 2,989

Fayetteville has made some important lists in recent years. Located in the foothills of the Ozarks and within an easy drive of Wal-Mart’s corporate headquarters, it has recently been named one of the best places to live (by Kiplinger) and to do business (by Inc.). Employment, which had been strongly positive since 2005, dropped somewhat in the fourth quarter of last year. Recent layoffs at Wal-Mart’s corporate office sent tremors through the market. But several Fortune 500 companies that sell products to Wal-Mart have established offices here, and they have helped Fayetteville achieve one of the lowest unemployment rates in the country, 4.1 percent in the fourth quarter. The University of Arkansas is also located in Fayetteville, and it has helped attract start-up businesses. Residents are drawn by an affordable housing stock; median prices average only $139,400, below the national average, and they’ve lost only 2.4 percent of their value in the last year. Builders pulled only 2,989 residential permits last year, down from 7, 449 in 2005.

8. Indianapolis, Ind. 2008 total building permits: 7,004

Builders are still pulling permits at a relatively healthy rate in Indianapolis, despite a virtually flat job market. Unlike other major markets that have become multifamily-oriented, single family still accounts for two-thirds of home building activity. Ultra-affordable housing accounts for some of the activity—the median price of a home here is only $117,900, making it one of the most affordable markets in the country. As a result, home prices have declined only 4.5 percent in the last year. At the top of the market in 2005, builders in Indianapolis took down 15,619 permits, so activity is down 55 percent, slightly better than the national average. Unfortunately, the relative health of the market wasn’t enough to keep Davis Homes, one of the area’s largest private builders, from going out of business last year.

7. Seattle, Wash. 2008 total building permits: 13,021

Seattle, a city of 3.4 million people, last year weighed in as the eighth largest home building market. Residential construction activity here, as measured by permits, is off only 50 percent since 2005, much better than most markets. Seattle has steadily transitioned during the last 10 years from an affordable to an upscale housing market, with the median price of an existing home reaching above $350,000. Even so, existing home prices fell only 11 percent in the last year. One of the secrets to Seattle’s success is that it has added lots of jobs in recent years; and held on to them last year. Some builders there have even stepped up their land buying in anticipation of a market recovery. As the city has become more urban, the share of single family to multifamily permits has reversed; multifamily now accounts for 58 percent of activity.

6. Raleigh, N.C. 2008 total building permits: 11,386

Another state capital with multiple universities, Raleigh was still adding jobs at a 1.9 percent annual rate though the third quarter of last year. With a population of more than 1 million, it also has one of the highest rates of population growth of any top metro market in the country over the last five years: nearly 5 percent annually. Though the price of a median home here, $221,900, is above the national average, it is well below other cities in the mid-Atlantic and Northeast. The metro area has added roughly 68,000 jobs since 2005, and employment held steady last year. With a glut of national builders in the market, locals such as Dixon Kirby have experimented with different looks and styles to keep sales alive.

5. Dallas, Texas 2008 total building permits: 26,145

In a year when permits declined 35 percent nationally, Dallas only experienced a 9 percent fall-off. With a population of 4.2 million, Dallas was the third largest home building market last year, as measured in permits pulled. Employers in Dallas, a popular place for corporate relocation and expansion, added 42,000 jobs last year, a growth rate of 2 percent. Existing home prices have held steady, falling a paltry 2.3 percent in the last year, Interestingly, the face of residential construction has changed dramatically in Dallas in recent years; 58 percent of the activity last year was in multifamily, compared to a five-year average of 23 percent. The relative stability of the market, though, wasn’t enough to prevent Wall Homes from filing for bankruptcy earlier this year. On the other hand, former Meritage co-CEO John Landon recently started a new Dallas-based home building company.

4. San Antonio, Texas 2008 total building permits: 10,261

San Antonio is another Texas market that is still adding jobs, about 15,000 last year. A city of more than 2 million people now, its population is also growing, at a 2.8 percent annual clip through the third quarter of last year. Existing home prices are barely declining in San Antonio, down only 1.8 percent in the last year, leaving the median price of an existing single-family home at an affordable $154,400, 25 percent below the national average of $200,500, according to the National Association of Realtors. The upper end of the housing market was hurt recently when AT&T announced it would be moving its corporate headquarters to Dallas.

3. Fort Worth, Texas 2008 Total Building Permits: 10,388

Fort Worth, always operating in the shadow of higher profile Dallas, nevertheless can currently claim to have a slightly healthier housing market, based on its employment growth, relatively strong permit activity, and inexpensive housing. Now the 14th largest home building market in the country, Ft. Worth’s builders pulled 10,388 permits last year, roughly two-thirds of them single-family. That may be half as many as 2005, but many other major markets showed much sharper drop-offs. The relative strength of the Fort Worth market in recent years stems from its ties to the oil and gas industries, which has fueled above-average job growth. The metro area added 17,300 jobs last year.

2. Austin, Texas 2008 Total Building Permits: 14,250

Nine years ago, during the tech bust, some builders felt that Austin was too crowded and left. The bloom is back on Austin’s yellow rose now; it moved up the leader board to become the sixth largest home building market last year. Job creation explains the move. While other markets lost employment, Austin added 17,400 jobs last year, 2.31 percent growth rate. It helps that Austin is home to both a major university, The University of Texas, and the state capital. Existing homes cost a little bit more in Austin than other Texas markets, roughly $190,900, but that’s still below the national average. Also, Austin is one of the few metro areas in the country where median prices actually rose in 2008--1.4 percent through the first three quarters of the year. Amazingly, Austin now generates more home building activity than Chicago, which has six times more people.

1. Houston, Texas 2008 Total Building Permits: 42,697
They like to do things big in Houston. Now the metro area, home to nearly 5.8 million people, can lay claim to being the largest home building market in the country, with 42,697 building permits. The market is still benefiting from an influx of population and jobs and rebuilding in the wake of Hurricane Ike. Employment rose 2.2 percent last year, representing the addition of an incredible 57,000 jobs. Home building activity in Houston has only fallen 31 percent since 2005. Also, existing home prices actually rose in Houston last year, 2.8 percent, to $160,200, still a very affordable level. Roughly one third of the home building action is in Harris County, followed by Houston proper and Fort Bend County. One of Houston’s largest builders, Royce Homes, shut down last year, and Kimball Hill, one of the biggest builders in Texas, closed its doors this year after it failed to find a buyer.

RV Mobil Satellite Dish Mount System

2008-12-22T11:33:00.000-08:00

RV Mobil Satellite Dish Mount System

Are You Tired Of The Unreliability Of RV Satellite Dish Tripod Systems? The RV Mobil Satellite Dish Mount System From Delsand . Is The Easy-To-Use System For You

If you have an RV satellite dish Tripod style portable satellite stand, you have probably experienced a great deal of frustration trying to get your device to work properly and consistently.

Unfortunately, these devices typically use the built-in gauge in the antenna in order to set up the elevation, as well as skew or tilt. As a result, you will have a harder time finding a good satellite signal with an RV satellite dish Tripod system – and this can make setting up and enjoying satellite television much more difficult.

Are You Looking For The Best Portable Satellite Dish Stand In The Industry?
The Delsand Satellite Stand For Dish Antenna Offers Quality And If You're Not Completely Satisfied, We Offer A Flexible Return Policy

If you want a reliable system that will provide a great signal every time you use it, the Delsand RV mobile satellite dish mount is the ideal system for you.

Although there may be occasions when a direct line of sight cannot be established, the Delsand RV mobile satellite dish mount will provide you with an excellent signal in most situations. In addition, with the integrated Line of Sight Tool (LOST), you can easily and quickly determine where your portable satellite stand will receive the very best signal. This enables quick, easy and less frustrating setup than with other more cumbersome systems such as the RV satellite dish Tripod system.

When you select the Delsand RV mobile satellite dish mount for your satellite reception needs, you will also be happy to find that the system works with all of the following systems…

Many DirecTVs (including the SlimLine 5 HD)

All Dish Networks

Many other satellite networks with a 1 5/8 or 2 inch OD post

As you can see, virtually any satellite system is compatible with the RV mobile satellite dish mount system from Delsand. Enjoy easier satellite television viewing today with our helpful mounts and locators.

To learn more about the Delsand RV mobile satellite dish mount, please visit our products page.

If you have any questions about our systems or are uncertain about which one is right for you, use our handy online contact form -- or call us at (425) 879-2929. One of our customer service professionals will be more than happy to help!

Made in the USA

Patent Pending
Designed and Patented by Delsand LLC in Lake Stevens, WA
Tooling Designed and Made by Ideality Inc. in Stanwood, WA
Injection Molding in Nylon-6 Done in Mukiteo and Everett, WA
Assembled, Boxed and Shipped in Stanwood, WA

Coachmen 2009 Freelander Class C Motorhome

2008-10-24T13:53:00.000-07:00

Coachmen Freelander Class C Motorhome Gets 'Best in Class' Fuel Mileage

DDLEBURY, Ind. — With its fuel economy pegged at an estimated 17 to 19 miles per gallon, Coachmen's newest Freelander Class C motorhome gets best in class mileage while retailing at an unbelievably affordable price.

Coachmen builds the Freelander 2100 CB on a Freightliner Sprinter chassis. The aerodynamic front end design and the efficient Mercedes 3.0 L V-6 turbo diesel engine are credited for the estimated 17 to 19 mpg. The MSRP on the Freelander 2100 starts around $89,000.

Freelander 2100's length is just under 25 feet, making the coach very maneuverable. The vehicle size and the comfortable cockpit create a driving sensation similar to an automobile or SUV.

Coachmen designers packed a ton of features into this smart floorplan. On the outside the Freelander 2100 has a class leading 78 cubic feet of exterior storage accessed with large side swing doors. Step inside and you can comfortably sleep six — two in the master bed, two in the cabover bunk and two on the convertible U dinette. Coachmen also fitted the cabover bunk with a safety net to prevent falls.

The galley features an aluminum sink with a high spout faucet that makes it easy to fill larger pots with water. It has a microwave oven as well as a range and oven and plenty of storage. A bench separates the galley countertop from the driver's seat in the cockpit. When the bench is not in use, the countertop can expand two additional feet with a pullout extension. As always, Coachmen designers have ensured there is extensive interior storage.

The U-dinette in the living area slideout, makes this coach even more spacious. Adding to the roomy feel is the tall seven-foot ceilings and large windows throughout that let in plenty of natural light. A 19-inch LCD HD-ready television is mounted on the wall across from the U dinette.

Freelander 2100 has its own bathroom with a tub/shower, a sink and a porcelain toilet.

Because it is so fuel efficient, functional, and affordable, the Coachmen Freelander 2100 is the perfect coach for couples or young families who want to enjoy the RV lifestyle.

Coachmen Industries, Inc. is one of America's leading manufacturers of recreational vehicles, systems-built homes and commercial buildings, with prominent subsidiaries in each industry. The Company's well-known RV brand names include COACHMEN®, GEORGIE BOY™, SPORTSCOACH®, ADRENALINE™ and VIKING®.

RV Solar Kit. Components Of An RV Solar Kit

2008-10-24T13:42:00.000-07:00

RV Solar How-To - The Components of an RV Solar Kit

Social and environmental responsibility doesn't end at the front door. Increasing numbers of RV owners are recognizing this fact. Many have begun a movement, taking environmental care on the road in response. Outfitting an RV with a solar kit can greatly reduce the regular traveler's carbon footprint. Fortunately, solar kits make solar how-to simple and efficient for the average recreational vehicle owner.

RV Solar Panels. Steps For Installing Solar Panels on an RV

Converting an RV to solar power has numerous implications. Naturally the greatest is the reduced negative impact that solar power has on the environment. Few in this day and age are unaware of the problems that heavy reliance upon non-renewable energy sources creates.

The quest for clean, renewable and low-impact energy generation and consumption has fueled the solar trend. Homes, commercial buildings and schools in addition to RV's are converting to solar power in greater numbers than ever. Governments have begun to grant tax breaks and other benefits to developers who incorporate sun energy into building practices.

Another benefit is energy cost savings. Conversion can be expensive. More often than not though, the long-term savings pay for the initial investment. The savings often continue long after the investment is paid for.

RV solar kits are what their name implies. They contain all of the components necessary to convert a recreational vehicle from electrical to solar power. Those components vary kit-to-kit, though basic parts are the same. It helps to understand what the components are when deciding which kit is appropriate for one's own travel needs.

A standard RV solar kit typically includes:

1) A charge controller. Charge controllers may also be referred to as charge regulators. A charge controller is similar to a car's voltage regulator. The voltage regulator in a car automatically maintains a voltage level. A charge controller works on the same principle. It regulates the current coming from the solar panels atop the RV heading to the battery.

The charge controller, in essence, prevents the battery from "frying." The average RV battery requires around fourteen volts to charge. A twelve volt solar panel may actually generate upwards of sixteen or more volts, dependent upon sunlight. This much would damage the average battery. The charge controller helps ensure that no more than fourteen volts reach the battery case. A charge controller may not be necessary, depending on watt output. A charge controller is usually necessary for most RV applications though. An assessment of power usage can help determine this.

2) Solar panels. They are also referred to as photovoltaic panels, after the science behind the technology: photovoltaics. The solar panels gather and channel or concentrate the sunlight, converting it to energy. An individual panel consists of a number of photovoltaic or solar cells. The cells are grouped together for efficiency to create a panel. Solar panels have varying wattages according to the number of cells they are made of. The panel produces a measure of amps in accordance to its wattage. A ninety-watt panel produces about five amps of power per hour of sunlight.

3) An inverter charger. Sometimes this component is simply referred to as an inverter. This device changes DC voltage (direct current or unidirectional electricity flow) to AC voltage (alternating current, which reverses direction cyclically.) This electricity can be at whatever voltage is required for the application. Standard market inverters are produced in twelve, twenty-four, thirty-two, thirty-six and forty-eight volts. Sometimes this component can be purchased with a switching kit to allow for increased voltage when needed.

These three basic components comprise the main hardware of an RV solar kit. Additionally, most kits come with all of the items necessary to install the system. This typically includes hardware, mounting devices and wiring. Additional features like remote controllers can sometimes be purchased, either as part of the kit or as an added feature.

It's recommended that a professional dealer be consulted to help determine the right solar kit for a particular recreational vehicle. A solar how-to pro will be able to assess power needs by individual travel habits and type of onboard appliances. Professional installation is also recommended to ensure optimum performance.

Video instructions for your next solar project. Solar How To. information is free and available to you.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sean_Burton

RV Solar Panels. Steps For Installing Solar Panels on an RV

2008-10-24T13:33:00.000-07:00

Steps For Installing Solar Panels on an RV

Thousands of recreational vehicle owners have joined the movement toward a greener earth. Thanks to solar how-to technology, RV owners have more options when it comes to travel. More of them than ever are harnessing the energy of the sun instead of relying on non-renewable energy sources. Using solar energy to power a camper or fifth-wheel is both environmentally friendly and cost-efficient.

RV solar kits make converting to solar power convenient and economical. Do-it-yourselfers with advanced handyman skills can save even more money installing their own solar panels. It's important to note that installing solar panels may not be a job for a novice. Incorrect installation could lead to poor performance or damage to the vehicle. Self-installation may sometimes nullify a warranty. Be sure to clarify this before beginning.

The first thing the advanced do-it-yourselfer should do is assess his power needs. This can be considered a "pre-step" in the installation process. Determining power needs will reveal how many solar panels are needed to deliver the correct amount of energy. Those panels must actually be able to fit on top of the vehicle and still meet those needs.

The panels will need to be installed in a place that doesn't disrupt the function of the vehicle's roof components. It helps to find a place where wiring can be run easily, such as close to a vent. Solar panels must be approximately six to eight inches from the edges of the roof.

1) Start by disconnecting all power sources in the vehicle. This includes the battery.

2) Cover the solar panels. Simply leave the wrapper on if the panels come wrapped in paper or cardboard. Otherwise, cover them with something non-transparent. The panels will begin to generate a charge prematurely if not covered.

3) Prepare the installation location by marking the perimeters of the panels on the roof. A laser sight can help ensure that the panels line up.

4) Drill holes where needed for the mounting hardware. Make sure to locate and avoid any interior wiring before drilling.

5) Insert the mounting hardware into the holes and secure. Fill extra space around holes with sealant if needed.

6) Place the solar panels into the mounting hardware. Secure or tighten according the directions on the packaging. Different types of panels have different hardware so follow instructions carefully to avoid damage.

7) Install the regulator in the interior of the vehicle. It's usually best to mount it within a wall.

8) Guide wiring from the panel(s) on the roof to the regulator inside the vehicle and connect. Follow instructions carefully to avoid injury and ensure optimal performance.

9) Connect wires from the regulator to the battery. Again, follow instructions carefully. Polarity must be correct.

10) Reconnect the battery.

11) Uncover the solar panels. Power should begin generating right away if the sun is shining even partially.

The guiding principles behind all types of solar kits are the same. The variations are found in the mounting hardware. Do-it-yourselfers should have a thorough understanding of how the hardware works before beginning. Proper installation is critical to the performance of the system. Human error may result in damage to the system itself or injury to people. Improperly secured panels may loosen during travel or break away altogether, leading to an accident.

Solar kits can be expanded as needs change as long as there is space atop the roof to install another panel. Simply add another when power demands increase. RV solar kits typically cost between one and five thousand dollars. This may sound like a great deal of money at first. However, frequent travelers almost always find that the kit pays for itself within several months to a few years.

Besides saving money, solar-powered RV travel is not reliant upon finding places to camp that have electrical outlet access. Even remote camping becomes a viable possibility for those with the desire for an extreme experience. Solar how-to technology opens up a whole new world of possibilities when it comes to enjoying the environment. It also helps to ensure that the environment is there for long-term appreciation.

Video instructions for your next solar project. Solar How To. information is free and available to you.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sean_Burton

RV Definitions. RV Vocabulary. RV Lingo

2008-10-24T13:24:00.000-07:00

RV Terms. RV Vocabulary. RV Lingo

Backup Monitor
A camera in the back of a motorhome, with the monitor positioned somewhere on the dashboard for the driver, to aid in backing up the motorhome. It is also used while driving to see the traffic behind and to keep an eye on the towed vehicle.

Ball Mount
The part of the hitch system that supports the hitch ball and connects it to the trailer coupler. Ball mounts are available in load carrying and weight distributing configurations.

Boondocking
Also known as dry camping, boondocking refers to camping without any hook-ups, namely camping without hooking up to any electric, sewer or water facilities. You can still have electric from your RV batteries and water from your freshwater holding tank.

Black (Water) Tank
The gallons of black water waste that can be held. Black water is the waste from the toilet.

Break-Away System
A system designed to automatically lock the trailer brakes in the event of a hitch failure and the trailer breaks away from the tow vehicle.

Converter
An electrical device for converting 120-volt AC power into 12-volt DC power. Most RVs with electrical hookups will have a converter, since many of the lights and some other accessories run on 12-volt DC.

Diesel Puller
The term for a motorhome with the diesel engine mounted in the front of the vehicle. Also know simply as a Puller.

Diesel Pusher
The term for a motorhome with the diesel engine mounted in the rear of the vehicle. Also know simply as a Pusher.

Dinghy
The term for a vehicle that you are towing with your motorhome. It is also known as a Toad.

Dry Camping
Also known as boondocking, dry camping refers to camping without any hook-ups, namely camping without hooking up to any electric, sewer or water facilities. You can still have electric from your RV batteries and water from your freshwater holding tank.

Dry Weight
The weight of the RV without any fuel, fresh water, propane or passengers.

Dump Station
A facility for dumping or emptying your black water and gray water holding tanks.

Equalizing Hitch
A hitch that utilizes spring bars that are placed under tension to distribute a portion of the trailer's hitch weight to the tow vehicle's front axle and the trailer's axles. This hitch is also known as a weight distributing hitch

Fresh (Water) Tank
The gallons of fresh water that can be stored for later use.

Full Hookup
The ability to connect to all three of the campground's facilities; electric, water and sewer.

Full-Timers -or- Full-Timing
The term used for people who live in their RV full-time, or at least the vast majority of their time.

Generator
An electrical device powered by gasoline or diesel fuel, and sometimes propane, for generating 120-volt AC power.

Gray (Water) Tank
The gallons of gray waste that can be held. Gray water is waste from the sinks and shower.

Hitch Weight
The amount of a trailer's weight that rests on the tow vehicle's hitch. For travel trailers this weight should be 10% to 15% of the total weight of the trailer. For fifth wheels this weight should be 15% to 20% of the total weight of the trailer.

Holding Tanks
There are three different holding tanks on most RVs: Fresh Water, Gray Water and Black Water. The fresh water tanks hold the water you will use for water you will pump into your RV when you are not getting water from an outside source. The gray water tank holds water from your kitchen and shower. The black water tank holds the water and waste from your toilet.

Hookups
The ability of connecting to a campground's facilities. The major types of hookups are electrical, water and sewer. If all three of these hookups are available, it is termed full hookup. Hookups may also include telephone and cable TV in some campgrounds.

Inverter
An electrical device for converting 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power.

LP Gas
Liquefied Petroleum Gas. LP gas is used to fuel appliances in the RV, such as the stove, oven, water heater and sometimes the refrigerator. Propane tanks are usually rated as pounds or gallons.

Part-Timers
The term used for people who use their RV more than usual (more than just a few weekend trips a year), but who still use it less than full-time.

Pop-Out:
The term for a room in an RV that pops out for additional living space.

Popup or Pop-Up
Another name for a folding camping trailer.

Porpoising:
A term used to define the up and down motion in an RV while traveling.

Puller
The slang term for a motorhome with a front-mounted diesel engine.

Pull Through
A camping site that allows you to pull through while setting up and leaving the area. A site where you do not have to back into or out of.

Pusher
The slang term for a motorhome with a rear-mounted diesel engine.

Safety Chains
A set of chains that are attached to both the trailer A-Frame and the tow vehicle while towing. Safety chains are intended to keep the trailer attached to the tow vehicle in the event of a hitch failure, preventing the trailer from completely separating from the tow vehicle.

Shore Power
Electricity provided to the RV by an external source other than the RV batteries.

Slide-In
The term for a type of camper that mounts on a truck bed, because this type of camper slides into the truck bed.

Slide-Out
A room or area in your RV that slides out to make additional space for living.

Tip-Out
The term used for an area or room in an RV that tips out for additional living space. The Tip-Out was generally used in older RVs. Newer RVs mainly use a slide-out.

Toad (towed)
The term for a vehicle that you are towing with your motorhome. It is also known as a Dinghy.

Tow Bar
A bar used for connecting a towed vehicle to the motorhome for towing with all four wheels on the ground.

Trailer Brakes
Brakes that are built into the trailer and are activated either by electric impulse or by a surge mechanism.

Weight Carrying Hitch
A hitch designed to accept the entire hitch weight of the trailer. This hitch is also known as a dead weight hitch.

Weight Distributing Hitch
A hitch that utilizes spring bars that are placed under tension to distribute a portion of the trailer's hitch weight to the tow vehicle's front axle and the trailer's axles. This hitch is also known as an equalizing hitch

Wet Weight
The weight of the RV with the fuel, freshwater and propane tanks full.

Wide Body
The term for an RV exceeding the normal eight feet wide. Wide Bodies are usually 102" (8' 6") wide.

Weight Terms
Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)
The manufacturer's maximum load weight, in pounds, that can be placed on the axle. If an axle has a 3500-lb. GAWR and the RV has two axles (tandem axles), then the RV would have a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of 7000 lbs. (see GVWR below)

Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR)
The manufacturer's maximum load weight, in pounds, allowed for the trailer and tow vehicle. This rating includes the weight of the trailer, tow vehicle, fuel, water, propane, supplies and passengers.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)
The manufacturer's maximum load weight, in pounds, allowed for the vehicle. This rating includes the weight of the vehicle plus fuel, water, propane, supplies and passengers.

Net Carrying Capacity (NCC)
Sometimes called the payload capacity, this is the maximum weight of fuel, water, propane, supplies and passengers that can be added to an RV without exceeding the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).(see GVWR above)

Payload Capacity
The maximum allowable weight that can be in or on a vehicle, including all cargo and accessories, fuel, freshwater, propane, passengers and hitch loads.

Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW)
Sometimes called the Dry Weight, it is the weight of the RV without adding fuel, water, propane, supplies and passengers. The manufacturer's UVW will not include any dealer-installed options.

How much stuff weighs!
Propane weighs 4.25 pounds per gallon
Water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon
Gasoline weighs 6.3 pounds per gallon
Diesel fuel weighs 6.6 pounds per gallon

Rv Battery Tips. Deep Cycle Battery Tips. Neglected RV Batteries

2008-10-24T11:49:00.000-07:00

Rv Battery Tips. Deep Cycle Battery Tips. Neglected RV Batteries

The RV coach battery(s) are one of the most important and neglected components in the RV. The converter in an RV also has a battery charger. Whenever you are plugged in to electricity, or the generator is running, the coach battery(s) is being charged. It is also being charged by the automotive alternator when you are driving the RV or in the case of a towable RV if you had a charge line wired into the light plug. This constant charging depletes the electrolyte level in the battery(s) cells. If the battery is not maintained properly it will fail much sooner than it should. Depending on how often the battery(s) is being charged will determine how often it needs to be checked.

You should check the battery(s) at least monthly and if you use the RV on a regular basis and / or you leave it plugged in when you’re not using it you may need to check the battery(s) more often. If you are not familiar with batteries and battery maintenance have them checked by an authorized service center. Batteries can be extremely dangerous. They emit gases that are explosive and they contain a very corrosive acid. If you do perform your own maintenance certain precautions must be taken.

Do not use an open flame or smoke around batteries. Avoid any electrical arcing or sparks around the battery(s). Wear protective clothing and safety glasses and avoid getting any battery acid on your skin or clothes. If the electrolyte levels are low in the cells use only distilled water to fill them to the proper level. If you do come in contact with battery acid flush the exposed area immediately with a lot of cold water.

Source: Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Battery. Types of RV Batteries

2008-10-24T11:39:00.000-07:00

RV Battery. Types of Batteries

There are different battery types for very different purposes. In this article we will be referring to the "chassis" battery and the "coach" battery. A "chassis" battery starts the engine and runs the automotive systems in either the motor home or the tow vehicle. A "coach" battery powers the lights, furnace, water pump and other 12 volt devices in the coach.

Starting Battery - this battery is designed to supply a large amount of current when needed to start the engine on a motor home or tow vehicle, and then be immediately recharged by the vehicles alternator. Deep discharging of this type will drastically shorten the life of the battery.

Marine Starting Battery - This battery is a compromise between the starting battery and the true deep cycle battery. The plates are heavier and more firmly mounted to endure the pounding of a marine application.

Deep Cycle Battery - this battery is built with heavy plates and other internal modifications to enable it to deliver a reletively small amount of current over an extended period of time. Care must be taken when recharging at high amperage settings and limitations exist to prevent plate warping.

Batteries and Battery Charging
The battery (or batteries) supply your RV with 12 volt DC electrical power to operate the lights, water pump, furnace and other appliances. They should be viewed as a storage tank for electricity and as such they have certain limitations.

The capacity of the battery relates to the amount of electrical power that the battery can store and that capacity will determine how long your lights will burn and how long your furnace will operate, before the battery will need to be recharged. You can increase the storage capacity of your battery by installing a larger size or by installing multiple batteries, depending on your camping requirements.

If you normally travel from RV park to RV park, where hookups are available, then one battery will be sufficient. However, if you "dry camp" at remote locations for more than a day or two, you will need more storage and some way to refill that storeage capacity.

Deep cycle batteries (or any battery, for that matter), should be recharged as soon as possible for longer service life. A deeply discharged battery should be slow charged over a long period of time, say at 2 amps for 72 hours or more to avoid excessive heat in the battery.

If you leave your battery on a charger, either the one built into the converter or a separate charger, for long periods of time, make sure charger voltage is between 13.25 and 13.75 volts. Anything above 14V will overcharge the battery and "boil" off a lot of the battery water. See Battery Products at Camping World

State of charge chart for 12 volt batteries:
12.70 volts 100%
12.50 volts 90%
12.42 volts 80%
12.32 volts 70%
12.20 volts 60%
12.06 volts 50%
11.90 volts 40%
11.75 volts 30%
11.58 volts 20%
11.31 volts 10%
10.50 volts 0%

Batteries should be checked after at least 3 hrs. rest.

Batteries Isolators and Charging Relays

Battey isolators are devices used to allow the RV battery to be charged by the vehicle alternator while the engine is running. When the ignition is turned off, the RV battery and the starting battery are effectively disconnected or "isolated" from each other. Relays are an alternative method of achieving the same thing.

Isolators use electronic circuitry to divide the alternator output between the two batteries. Diodes (one way electrical components) are used to prevent the RV battery from draining the starting battery when dry-camping.

Relays are electro-mechanical devices that basically do the same thing as a battery isolator. Relays are simple switching devices that use a tigger current from the ignition system to connect the RV battery and the starting battery together when the engine is running. When the ignition switch is turned off, the trigger current is also turned off and the switch opens (disconnecting the two batteries). This allows the RV battery to be charged from the vehicles alternator when the engine is running, but prevents the RV electrical system from depleting the staring battery while camping. A continuous duty relay should be used as opposed to the typical starting relay. These are available at most RV supply outlets.

RV Waste Water System Care. RV Waste Water System

2008-08-25T14:04:00.000-07:00

RV Waste Water System Care & Maintenance
Waste Water System

The wastewater system inside the recreational vehicle is self-contained, while on the road or set up in a campsite. The main parts of the waste system are the toilet, holding tanks and tank dump valves. As in residential households, the drainage system also includes p-traps and roof vents to allow escape of odors and gases.

RV Waste Holding Tanks
Waste water is divided into two categories: Black water and gray water. The term black water refers to the waste flushed down the toilet and stored in a separate tank*, referred to as the black tank. Gray water is the wastewater from the sinks, tub and shower drains and is stored within one (or more) gray tank(s). Waste tanks empty through a single outlet, but a separate valve controls each tank.

The dump valves should remain closed even if connected to an exterior sewer hook up. For proper dumping, empty tanks only when they are nearly full. The idea is to send a large volume of water through the tanks and hose at the same time to assist the solid waste in flushing from the system.

RV Waste Holding Tank Dumping Instructions
Place the end of the sewer hose into an approved dump station inlet.
Twist off the termination outlet cap.
Connect the sewer hose by turning counterclockwise, locking the end levers over the termination end.
Open the black tank termination valve and drain.
Open the gray tank termination valve and drain. (If RV has 2 gray tanks, drain one at a time.)
6. Close termination valves.
Disconnect sewer hose and store.
Replace termination cap on the outlet.
Add chemical deodorant / breakdown agent approved for RV use.
After the sewage tank has been emptied, close the gate valves and put approximately five gallons of water in the sewage holding tanks. This will help prevent solids from building up. The addition of a deodorizing agent like Aqua-Kem® will help prevent odors.

RV Toilet
The toilet operates from water supplied either by the fresh water tank or from an exterior water supply connected to a campground water hook-up. (The water pump must be turned on when utilizing the water from the fresh water tank.)

The toilet flushes directly into the black water tank. You should find complete instructions and care for the model installed in your RV at the manufactures web site or by calling the company.

Solids Build-Up
The most common problem associated with the waste system is solids build up. Using plenty of water when flushing the toilet, and keeping the holding tank valves closed until ready to flush the system can reduce the risk of build up.

Should you ever have a build up of solids, close the valves, fill the tanks at least 3/4 full with fresh water, drive a drive a few miles to agitate the solids then drain the tanks.

Do not put these items in toilet

Facial tissues, paper towels, sanitary products (including those labeled flushable).
Detergents or bleach. Use a sewage tank deodorizer.
Automotive antifreeze, ammonia, alcohols, or acetones.
Grease from cooking, table scraps or other solids that may cause clogging.

RV Holding Tanks. RV Holding Tank Tips. Clogged Holding Tank

2008-08-25T13:53:00.000-07:00

RV Holding Tanks. RV Holding Tank Tips

HOLDING TANKS - There are normally two different holding tanks on most RVs; the gray water tank and the black water tank. The gray water tank holds the waste water from the sinks and showers. The black water tank holds the waste from the toilet.

RV waste water holding tanks are meant only as a temporary storage facility for waste and are not designed to be a water processing or water purifying system.

That is better left to septic systems or municipal water treatment plants. When you dump the contents of your holding tanks into an approved dump station, the disposal and treatment of these wastes become the responsibility of the station.

In the past few years many free dump stations have been closed down and more will follow. Why? ... Some RV holding tank treatments are harmful to septic systems, especially formaldehyde-based chemicals. Formaldehyde is a preservative and destroys the bacteria that are needed to break down waste materials. In addition, unscrupulous people have been illegally dumping everything from paint to oil to hazardous materials of all sorts into these dump stations. RVers Guide to Dump Stations

However, there is much that the RVer can do to control odors and help keep the holding tanks clean and functioning as they were intended to. The use of appropriate holding tank treatments and RV friendly toilet products are a good step in this direction. An enzyme-based holding tank treatment uses "good" bacteria to digest waste solids and keep the odor under control. One very effective treatment is Enviro-Chem

The use of quick dissolving toilet paper helps to keep the waste in a liquid form. To test your toilet paper, fill an empty jar half full with water. Drop in a sheet or two of your favorite toilet paper. Shake the jar for a few seconds. If the toilet paper dissolves it's RV holding tank friendly. If it fails this test, experiment with another brand.

RV Holding Tank Tips

RV Holding Tank-Dumping Tips
1. Prior to pulling the holding tank valve (Don't laugh this can happen to a seasoned RVer as well as a newbie) be sure the sewer hose is connected to the outlet on the RV and the drain receptacle.

2. Use a clear quick connect fitting between the hose and the RV. This allows you to see what is in your tank. Is it a fast moving slurry or a slow movement of solids.

3. Be sure all connections are secure to prevent leakage. Check the RV connection for leakage and the dump connection to make sure it is tight and will not allow odors to seep out. Make sure the receiving drain is lower than the RV drain, and that there are no obstructions.

4. Never dump the black tank uncles it is at least 2/3 full. Add water if needed. Liquid is needed to help carry out the solid wastes.

5. Allow the grey water tank to fill with sufficient water to flush the black water wastes from your sewer hose.

6. When you are finished flushing out the sewer hose, close both tank valves and add several gallons of warm water to each. You are now ready to add the recommended amount of additives to each holding tank.

RV Dump Station Health Risks
Be watchful of how the previous RVers have used the dump station. You will notice inexperienced or lazy RVers rinsing out their sewer hoses with the dump stations drinking water hoses.

In case you don't know, sewage bacteria can cling to almost anything and often does. Where do you think these bacteria will go when you fill your drinking water tank using the same hose?

Holding Tank Dump Health Risks
Do you expose yourself to health risks by handling your sewer and black water connections. Do you further increase your health risks by not thoroughly washing your hands after handling this equipment?

Protect Yourself
Protect yourself by wearing disposable gloves.

They are inexpensive and take minimal storage space and help to protect you from harmful bacteria.

Buy several boxes and keep them in a plastic bag in your sewer valve compartment.

Clogged Holding Tanks
Build-Up Of Solids
The build up of solids is likely to reduce the capacity of the tank.

The waste build up can create a dream environment for harmful bacteria and a dangerous health situations for you.

Cleaning out or eliminating build ups can be very expensive.

Clogged Tank
With a regular maintenance and an effective holding tank additive, clogged holding tanks can be eliminated. However, if your tank does become clogged, follow these steps.

1. Close the tank drain valve then raise the sewer hose as high as you can and have someone else fill it with water. Have the other person reopen the drain valve and quickly place the sewer hose back in the sewer drain hole.

This should create a suction action that often loosens the clog.

2. Rent or buy a manual auger and place it down the toilet and operate it until it turns freely in as many positions as possible. Fill the tank and open the drain valve again.

3. Connect a back flush valve to your drain and back flush the tank from the drain valve with as much water pressure as possible. You can purchase these valves from most RV parts stores.

4. If the park you are at has a honey wagon, have them connect to the drain valve and try sucking the tank with the honey wagon pump.

If steps above do not work, you have 2 more options.

Option 1. Call an RV specialist who has equipment to unclog holding tanks

Option 2. Buy a quart of UNIQUE RV Digest-It. Empty the quart into the problem tank through a toilet or drain connected to the tank.

Purchase a clear drain connector, wait at least 12 hours then open the drain and watch the liquids flow. Problem solved.

RV Holding Tank Odors Gone With the Wind

Badger Car Salesman.

2008-08-01T08:21:00.001-07:00

Badger Car Salesman.

A great video with a badger as a car salesman. Have you ever felt badgered by your car salesman?

Locating an RV Park or Campground

2008-07-29T13:58:00.000-07:00

Locating an RV Park or Campground

Get an RV park and campground directory (you will find some on this site on the right side). You'll also find them at book and RV accessory stores. The directories list the RV parks and campgrounds by area. You simply open the book to the area where you want to stay to find the campgrounds available.

Each individual listing will include information about the campground, its facilities and fees. Owners of large rigs should pay particular attention to the campground's size limitations.

Commercial directories don't always list the government campgrounds. Try to obtain listings or directories of the National, State, County and City campgrounds in the areas you are visiting.

Reservations at campgrounds and RV parks should be made according to the location and time of year just as you would at a hotel or motel. If you want to stay on a holiday or summer weekend, reservations might be wise. If you will arrive during the middle of the week or during the off season, reservations may not be necessary.

Many RVers prefer to travel without the constraints of an itinerary. They don't make reservations because they don't know where they will be on any given day. Others, with a particular destination and time frame in mind, will secure their campsite by making reservations. RVing offers this freedom of choice.

Before stopping for the night, refer to your campground directory. Select a couple of RV parks or campgrounds that fit your needs and budget. It's not a bad idea to personally check the facilities, especially the restroom and laundry, before registering. This can be important if you plan to use the showers or wash a load of clothes.

Government campgrounds frequently let you drive through, select an empty site and then return to register. Camping fees are generally the same for all the sites.

RV parks and commercial campgrounds will generally register you and assign you to a campsite immediately upon your arrival. Camping fees will vary according to the hookup facilities you request and, on occasion, the size and location of the site.

Most RV parks and campgrounds post their campsite rates on a board behind the registration desk. Typically, there is a basic overnight fee with additional charges for each hookup service. There may also be additional charges for more than two persons, pets, additional vehicles and use of air conditioners or electric heaters.

Many RVers want full hookups every night and are willing to pay for them, others may only request electric and water hookups. They will use the campground's disposal station when they leave in the morning. Some RVers will ask for just a "dry" campsite.

A lot of RV parks and campgrounds offer discounts to members of RV clubs. Some offer weekly and monthly rates. Inquire about discounts and rates before registering.

Ask for:

A site that will accommodate your slide-out room(s).
A pull-through site if you have a long rig.
Hookup connections on the left (driver's) side of the campsite.
A shady site in the summer.
A sunny site when it's cold.
A site close to the recreational facilities if you won't mind the noise.
A site convenient to the restroom if you won't mind the foot traffic.
A site near the laundry room if you are going to use it.
Look over the literature you are given when you register. It may tell you what channels have which TV networks, what churches, restaurants and stores are in the neighborhood and other local items of interest. Patronize the advertisers on the campground literature, they clearly want your business.

Here are some ways you can reduce the cost of overnight camping:

Use your campground directory(s) to compare the prices of campgrounds in the area you wish to spend the night.
Take advantage of your RV or other club discounts.
Select and only pay for the utility hookups you need.
Ask about weekly or monthly rates.
Don't overlook the sometimes less expensive campgrounds in National, State, County and City parks.
And our favorite, cultivate lots of friends with long driveways.

Enjoy The Journey!
by Joe and Vicki Kieva (From the book “RVing Made Easy”)