Trailrider - Adventures and Ride Reports

www.trail-rider.co.za

2026-08-01T15:54:58.000+02:00

Whats New?

We are back baby! With a new enthusiasm for blogging! Stay tuned for a new era and new Ride Reports on www.trail-rider.co.za!

Ride Report: Gwaing River
Micro Adventure: Just do it!
Test Ride: Honda Transalp E-Clutch
Bike Update: Pimping the Twin!

Whats News?

The Twin has been running and more reports are on the way! Watch this space...

A big thank you to Tracks 4 Africa for their latest set of maps. This will ensure that we never miss a scenic route!

Lets keep the rubber side down.

Trailrider

Future Rides

Sutherland Winter Ride
On the Trail of Cornelius Lotter

"God willing, someday I'll grow old & weak. But when I do, I’ll have pictures and ride reports and I will relive life all over again. It's my pension. Every trip is another deposit in my memory pension. I'm gonna have a wonderful old age." - MetalJockey (Wild Dog Forum)

The Two-Hour Window - Just do it!

2026-07-31T15:53:00.000+02:00

Micro-adventures can be different things to different people. For someone who only gets a break once or twice a year, it might be a quick one-nighter trip, and just opening the maps, choosing a destination, and planning that short trip might be a mental micro-adventure in itself.

For myself, however, the best micro-adventures are the spontaneous ones. A simple thought that comes up at 11 AM, getting on the bike at noon, and finding myself somewhere totally unexpected by 1pm, only to be back in the office by 2pm, reinvigorated to complete the working day.

Since my first 2 Hour Holiday, followed months later by a 2 Hour Safari, I have realized just how much can be done in two hours.

Where was I going? Truly, I had no idea. I turned left. Ahead of me was Outeniqua Pass and a spirited ride through a beautiful pass seemed like a good idea at the time. And then I simply kept going. Riding through Waboomskraal, known for growing hops, I took the first gravel road in the Klein Karoo because of the “Flood damage” sign.

Such things draw me like a moth to a flame. Most of the damage have been fixed. Roads, even back roads, are well maintained in the Eden District.

The road took me to a little church in a small settlement / railway siding called Zebra.

I have ridden past here before, but I’ve never stopped to really look at this church. The building reflects classic rural Klein Karoo style with whitewashed stone walls, a simple pitched tin roof and wooden sash windows. It appears to be well maintained.

(I later learned that the Zebra Church has found new life as the official final destination of the Hope Camino (the Calitzdorp Klein Karoo Pilgrimage). Hikers begin at the Dutch Reformed Church in Calitzdorp and cover approximately 141 kilometers over seven days, finishing at the doors of the historic Zebra Church.)

When the road forked again the track toward Mount Hope looked inviting, but having been there before, I opted for a quieter farm road instead. It wound past scattered cottages, where friendly farmworkers looked up to wave enthusiastically as the bike rolled by. After the recent heavy rains the whole area is green and beautiful.

I crossed the Kliprivier (Stone River), again. It originates in the foothills of the Outeniqua Mountains and meanders through agricultural land before joining the Olifants River (which eventually feeds the massive Gourits River system). When thunderstorms or mountain rain occur these rivers can change dramatically from a dry riverbed to a powerful flood within hours. Hence the “Flood Damage” sign from earlier.

Following the road I came across this.

The nearby Blossoms railway siding was named after the farm Blossoms. In the days before good roads, sidings like Blossoms were vital to farming communities. Farmers would bring produce by wagon to the siding, where it was loaded onto trains bound for Oudtshoorn, George and beyond.

In recent years, the name "Blossoms" became household news in the Little Karoo due to the massive Blossoms Emergency Water Scheme. The region sits above a major groundwater reserve, piping millions of liters of water per day over 22 km into Oudtshoorn.

I noticed the name for a different reason. I recall seeing the farm advertising a self-catering unit, a restored historic milking parlor converted into a private cottage. The farm also hosts a variety of game species, including Cape Buffalo, Giraffe, Sable, Golden Wildebeest, Kudu, and Springbok. So I continued, crossing the Kliprivier, again.

Now, my Adventure Bike can take me anywhere.

Except into a Buffalo enclosure!

So this was the end of the road, for now. We will be back in a suitable vehicle and staying for the night soon!

A random Klein Karoo house on the way back. Imagine growing up here.

The gravel road eventually spat me back onto the tar and with time ticking, it was time to head back. What litre-class adventure bikes lack in tight, technical single-track, they more than make up for when you need to cover ground. The stretch home was dispatched quickly, effortlessly, and in absolute comfort.

In just two hours, I carved through a mountain pass (twice), stood in the quiet shadow of a historic church, exchanged waves with smiling strangers, stopped at tranquil river crossings and found a new destination to visit soon. It was a complete reset, compressed into a single lunch break.

You just need a machine, an open road, and the willingness to trade sixty minutes of routine for sixty minutes of the unknown.

I Went Looking for the Ocean… and Found a 200-Year-Old Secret

2026-07-28T15:45:00.000+02:00

From Gwaing River Mouth to the forgotten story of Chief Dikkop and Pacaltsdorp.

There are days when you set out with no real agenda, just a quiet plan to find a stretch of coastline where you can hear the ocean properly. Just a short drive from George, tucked away beyond Pacaltsdorp, lies one of the Garden Route’s lesser-known treasures, the beautiful Gwaing River Mouth. While nearby beaches like Herolds Bay often attract the crowds, Gwaing remains a quieter escape, a place where river, ocean and rugged coastline meet in a peaceful natural setting.

But places like this have a habit of revealing more than they promise. What looks like an ordinary coastal stop quickly becomes a gateway into something far older, where the landscape starts telling stories that stretch back more than two centuries. That’s when you begin to realise that you’ve accidentally stepped onto a forgotten discovery route, layered with history that most people drive past without ever noticing.

So after a short ride I find myself where the Gwaing River flows down from the Outeniqua Mountains and eventually empties into the Indian Ocean at a small estuary about 3 km east of Herolds Bay. The estuary itself is relatively small, roughly 1.4 km long, and is classified as a temporarily closed estuary, meaning sandbanks sometimes seal the mouth from the sea depending on tides and river flow.

But what the Gwaing lacks in size, it more than makes up for in atmosphere. Steep cliffs frame the golden sand beach while the river winds gently toward the ocean, creating calm pools and sheltered spots perfect for exploring. Visitors often come here for fishing, long beach walks, picnics or simply to sit and watch the waves roll in.

During winter and spring, visitors sometimes spot whales passing along the coast, while dolphins frequently patrol the waves just offshore. At sunset the cliffs glow warm orange and the river reflects the sky like a mirror, one of those quiet Garden Route moments that stays with you long after you leave.

The nearby community of Pacaltsdorp has a long and fascinating history dating back to the early 1800s, when the mission station of Hoogekraal was established and later renamed after missionary Charles Pacalt. Being a sucker for history I started looking into the history of Pacaltsdorp, which turned into a whole adventure of its own. The story of Pacaltsdorp is really a story of two founders: Charles Pacalt, whose name the town carries, and Chief Dikkop, whose vision brought the mission station into existence. Most visitors know one name, but few know the other. Chief Dikkop is one of the most important, yet often overlooked, figures in the Southern Cape story.

Chief Dikkop (Kaptein Dikkop) was the leader of the local Khoikhoi community living at Hoogekraal, the settlement that later became Pacaltsdorp. Without Dikkop, Pacaltsdorp may never have existed. Chief Dikkop had the foresight to invite a missionary because he saw opportunities for advancement for his community.

In 1812, after meeting missionaries from the London Missionary Society, Dikkop repeatedly requested that a resident missionary be sent to Hoogekraal. His request was eventually granted when Reverend Charles Pacalt was assigned to the settlement in 1813. According to local accounts, Dikkop personally travelled by ox wagon to Suurbraak to fetch Pacalt, a journey that reportedly took four weeks.

After Reverend Pacalt's death in 1818, the Hoogekraal settlement was renamed Pacaltsdorp in his honour. There are several historic sites from that time. Before a church was built, Rev. Charles Pacalt built the “Patat Huisie”, considered the oldest surviving structure in Pacaltsdorp.

This was originally Rev. Pacalt's second mission cottage, built around 1813 with sod walls, a thatched roof and a cow-dung floor. One of the old manse buildings in Pacaltsdorp.

The Old Manse buildings are the houses where the ministers (or "dominees") of the mission station lived. In church terminology, a manse is simply the minister's residence. What's interesting about Pacaltsdorp is that there wasn't just one manse. Over the years, several were built as the mission grew. After Rev. Charles Pacalt's death, Rev. William Anderson arrived and built a substantial two-storey stone residence next to Pacalt's small cottage. The building featured thick stone walls and extensive use of yellow-wood timber. It was considered quite grand compared to the humble mission cottages around it.

The “Patat Huisie” was declared a national monument in 1976. Later, John Anderson used it to store his famous "six months patats", which gave the building its nickname. Rev. Anderson’s home also was declared a National Monument in 1976.

The Andersons occupied the house for 30 years. After both Mr. and Mrs. Andersons death the three spinster daughters moved away and the Atkinsons took over.

The Klipkerk of Pacaltsdorp is arguably the most important historic building in the George area and one of the oldest surviving churches in the Southern Cape. The church was built between 1822 and 1825, only a few years after the death of Rev. Charles Pacalt. It was officially opened on 19 June 1825 by Dr. John Philip of the London Missionary Society. The building was constructed largely by local residents of the mission station using locally available materials of stone, yellowwood, clay and glass.

What makes it unique is its architecture. Most early Cape churches followed the simple Cape Dutch style, but the Pacaltsdorp church is a rare example of early Gothic Revival (often described locally as Norman-style) architecture in South Africa. Architectural historians have described it as one of the finest surviving early Gothic Revival buildings in the country.

Some fascinating details include walls that are nearly a metre thick in places. The tall square stone tower that can be seen from far across Pacaltsdorp. The Gothic-style window tracery was crafted from yellowwood. It is a design that resembles a small medieval church rather than a typical Cape mission church. When you stand in front of it, it feels more like something you would expect to find in rural England than in the Garden Route.

The church stands at the heart of the mission settlement that Chief Dikkop helped create. However, there is a poignant twist in the story. Dikkop died in 1816, before the church was completed, and because he apparently never formally converted to Christianity, he was buried outside the mission cemetery. His grave is about 100 metres from the church. His grave remains one of the most significant, and least-visited, historical sites in the Garden Route.

Located in the old cemetery near the Klipkerk, is a small enclosed section reserved for the missionaries, their spouses, and a handful of individuals who played key roles in the early mission community.

Among those buried in Missionaries' Acre are Rev. Charles Pacalt, Rev. William Anderson, who succeeded Pacalt and played a major role in the growth of the settlement and Epenita Jantjies, a particularly important figure because she was Rev. Pacalt's first Khoi convert, baptised in 1814. She remained a member of the church for more than four decades and is one of the few local indigenous people buried within the Acre.

If you are ever in the area, take a Historic Walk.

Start at the Stone Church.
See Missionaries' Acre.
See the Patat Huisie and old manse buildings.
Visit Chief Dikkop's grave.

This is one of the easiest and most rewarding self-guided historical walks in the Garden Route. You're effectively walking through a living museum, all within a few hundred metres of one another. That concentration of early 19th-century history is almost unmatched anywhere else in the Southern Cape.

Sometimes you set out with something simple in mind, like a quick out-ride to the Gwaing River Mouth, only to find yourself stepping into something far older and richer than expected. A short turn off the main road can quietly pull you onto a 200-year-old discovery route. It is one of those reminders that travel does not always require distance. Some of the most interesting stories are not “somewhere out there”, but right here in your own backyard, waiting behind familiar place names and gravel roads you’ve driven past a hundred times without really seeing them.

Honda’s E-Clutch

2026-06-18T09:30:00.000+02:00

It’s not what you think.

I recently had the opportunity to ride Honda’s TransAlp with the new E-Clutch. Forget what you thought and forget what you heard. You need to experience this to fully grasp it. This is not a different DCT option. It’s not “the best of both worlds” between auto and manual. Its not automatic at all. It is a normal manual bike. You still ride and shift gears. You still have a clutch like on a normal bike. It’s just optional to use it.

So how does it work?

You start the bike, put the bike in first, twist the throttle and ride off. You can not stall it. And then you run up and down the gears, manually like normal, and stop. And stopping without the clutch does not stall the bike. Very user friendly.

One of the biggest benefits is in stop-start traffic. You simply select first gear and ride away without touching the clutch. The clutchless upshifts and downshifts that are generally smoother and faster than what most riders can achieve manually. On twisty roads, this helps maintain momentum. On adventure bikes like the Transalp, the system can reduce the chances of stalling when negotiating difficult terrain. Riders can focus more on throttle control and line selection rather than clutch modulation.

On the XL750 Transalp with the throttle-by-wire system, the E-Clutch can actually "blip" the throttle during downshifts. This helps match the engine revs to the wheel speed for ultra-smooth transitions. For the Transalp in particular, this also improves upshifts even when the rear wheel is spinning (for example, off-road), since the system monitors front and rear wheel speed to control engagement.

You can pull the clutch lever at any time and ride exactly as you would on a traditional motorcycle.

Perhaps the greatest benefit of Honda's E-Clutch is that it makes motorcycling more accessible to newcomers. For many new riders, learning how to coordinate the clutch and throttle without stalling can be intimidating. The E-Clutch takes care of that task automatically, allowing riders to concentrate on riding and building confidence from the moment they get on the bike.

If you get the chance, I highly recommend taking one of the Honda E-Clutch models for a spin.

A Two-Hour Safari

2026-06-06T09:33:00.000+02:00

Not every adventure needs a week of leave, a fully packed pannier setup, or a destination hundreds of kilometres away. Sometimes, the perfect escape is sitting right on your doorstep.

I recently discovered exactly that on a short circular ride that I can only describe as a “Two-Hour Safari”, a scenic backroad route winding through game farms, rolling hills, quiet gravel roads, and even a few small mountain passes. It is the kind of ride that reminds you why motorcycles and backroads belong together.

The route passes the impressive Hartbeeskuil Dam, and after the recent rains, the dam is an incredible sight. Filled right to the brim, the water stretches across the landscape like an inland sea, reflecting the clouds and mountains around it. It is worth stopping just to take it all in for a few minutes.

But the real magic starts once the road enters the surrounding game farm areas.

Within minutes I started spotting wildlife everywhere. Wildebeest and Eland grazed calmly in open fields while Zebra moved between the bushes. Springbuck scattered across the plains and massive Giraffe stood watching from a distance. Waterbuck appeared near the wetter areas and Ostriches casually wandered alongside the road. At times it felt less like a normal ride and more like a proper safari, just without the game viewer and khaki uniforms.

Then came the part that really got my attention.

For roughly six kilometres, the road runs directly through the spectacular Gondwana Private Game Reserve. Unlike many reserves where dangerous animals are kept behind separate fencing, Gondwana has free-roaming Lion, Buffalo, Elephant and Rhinoceros in certain areas. Suddenly the ride became a lot more exciting.

I must admit, I became slightly nervous.

Not long after entering the reserve section, I encountered some Elephants near the road. Seeing animals like that from the saddle of a motorcycle changes your perspective very quickly. You suddenly feel very small and very exposed. Add to that the antelope and other game occasionally running ahead of the bike on the road itself, and your senses become fully switched on.

It was thrilling, slightly intimidating, and absolutely unforgettable.

What makes this route so special is how accessible it is. You do not need complicated planning, expensive bookings, or days away from work. It is the perfect micro-adventure, a quick break from routine that still delivers scenery, wildlife, gravel roads, and genuine adventure.

Sometimes two hours is all you need to reset the soul.

And sometimes, the best safari is the one hiding just beyond your hometown.

Download Route HERE.

Distance: 53km

Travel Time: 2 hours.

Road Surface: Mostly gravel with loose sections, can be slippery when wet.

The Ebenezer Stone

2026-05-23T09:11:00.000+02:00

A Miracle Hidden in Plain Sight on the N12

If you have ever driven the N12 between Oudtshoorn and De Rust, chances are you have flown right past one of the most remarkable, hidden-in-plain-sight monuments in the entire Klein Karoo.

Just about 7 km outside Oudtshoorn, right as the tarmac sweeps into a sharp bend where the highway crosses the railway line near Hazenjacht, sits a solitary, weathered stone marker. It looks a bit like a lonely grave, but it isn’t.

It is a monument to a broken pocket watch, a terrifying split-second choice, and a miraculous escape from a roaring locomotive.

This is the story of the Sarel du Plessis Ebenezer stone, and exactly why you need to pull over, step out of your vehicle, and read the inscription for yourself.

The year was 1908. Sarel "Sareltjie" C. du Plessis, a well-known local farmer and church elder, was preparing to take his family into Oudtshoorn for the weekend. In those days, a trip to town from the surrounding farms was a major excursion. Families would pack their horse-drawn carriages (perdekarre) and head to their tuishuise (town houses) in places like Rus Street to attend Nagmaal (Holy Communion) services and stock up on supplies.

Traveling with Sarel that Friday afternoon was his wife, Jacomina, and their brave 13-year-old daughter, Maynie.

Unbeknownst to Sarel, his trusted pocket watch was running exactly one hour fast.

In the early 1900s, train schedules through the Karoo were regular but sparse. Farmers knew the timetables by heart and relied completely on their timepieces to gauge when it was safe to cross the railway tracks. Looking at his watch, Sarel confidently remarked to Jacomina that the afternoon train hadn't even reached the Hazenjacht siding yet. They had all the time in the world, he thought, to cross the Stolsvlakte intersection. He was dead wrong. The train was barreling right toward the crossing on a direct collision course with his family.

As the carriage neared the tracks, a perfect storm of environmental factors blinded the family to the oncoming danger. The wind was blowing hard from the opposite direction, carrying the sound of the steam engine away from them. Worse, the rough, unpaved dirt roads created a massive racket. The carriage wheels lacked rubber tires, and the clattering of iron and wood completely drowned out the rumble of the approaching locomotive.

At the absolute last second, the horses sensed the danger. Instead of crossing the tracks, the terrified animals veered violently to the left. It was a move that saved their lives, but the collision was already unavoidable. The train slammed into the back of the wooden carriage with a sickening crunch, instantly ripping off the rear rack where the animal feed was stored. The violent impact lifted the heavy carriage, balancing it precariously on just a single wooden wheel. The force of the crash threw Jacomina clear of the vehicle. She hit the ground hard and was knocked unconscious. Sarel was thrown next, tumbling into the dirt, entirely helpless.

With the horses completely panicked and bolting down the track, the carriage was on the verge of flipping over and dragging the family to a catastrophic end. But 13-year-old Maynie, sitting in the back, didn't panic. As the carriage rocked on one wheel, she scrambled over the seats into the driver's box, lunged forward, and grabbed the trailing leather reins. Putting every ounce of her weight into it, the young girl managed to rein in the terrified horses and bring the shattered carriage to a halt.

Miraculously, everyone survived. Sarel escaped with nothing but a torn jacket, though the delayed shock was so severe he fainted right on a doorstep when they finally reached town. Jacomina spent a week in bed recovering from her injuries but made a full recovery. In a bizarre twist of Karoo irony, Sarel’s own stable groom happened to be a passenger on that very train and jumped out of the carriages to help his employer's family.

Overwhelmed by how close his family had come to a horrific tragedy, Sarel du Plessis later went back to the exact spot of the near miss. He carved a stone monument with his own hands and erected it by the roadside to permanently honor what he called his "beloved Heavenly Father's saving grace."

He carved it as an Ebenezer: a biblical term meaning "stone of help." The inscription, still legible today, reads:

   EEN EBENHAEZER
   Tot hiertoe heeft de Heere ons geholpen. Lof en dank zij Zijn dierbaren Naam toegebracht.

S. C. DU PLESSIS
(An Ebenezer: "Thus far the Lord has helped us. Praise and thanks be given to His precious Name.")

Today, the old Du Plessis farmstead operates as Thabile Lodge, and the infamous pocket watch that caused the entire ordeal is still kept as a treasured family heirloom by his descendants.

The next time you are driving or riding the N12 corridor, don't just rush through to your destination. Slow down as you approach the railway bridge outside Oudtshoorn. Pull off safely onto the gravel verge, walk up to this handmade stone, and stand exactly where a 13-year-old girl saved her family from the thundering iron horse. It’s a powerful reminder that every bend in the Southern Cape roads holds a story worth stopping for.

Completing the Journey: The Rus Street Tuishuise

To truly finish the story of Sarel’s miraculous escape, you have to follow his tire tracks all the way into the historic heart of Oudtshoorn. Head into town and take a slow drive down Rus Street, where the family’s original tuishuis (town house - although not certain which one was his) still stands among a strictly protected, beautifully preserved row of late-Victorian and Edwardian homes.

Unlike the ostentatious "Ostrich Palaces" built by the wealthy feather barons on Baron van Reede Street, Rus Street was the domain of the working Karoo farmer. These modest, elegant cottages with their classic corrugated iron roofs and deep front verandas were used exclusively as weekend bases when families traveled long distances for Nagmaal (Holy Communion) services or town business. Walking or riding down this quiet street today is like stepping straight into 1908: and it gives the entire narrative a fantastic final layer when you realize that one of these very doorsteps is where Sarel du Plessis finally collapsed from delayed shock once his family was safe.

The Crown Jewel of Sandstone: The NG Moederkerk

Just a short walk or drive from the quiet simplicity of the Rus Street tuishuise, the landscape is suddenly dominated by a staggering masterpiece of European design dropped right into the Klein Karoo: the Dutch Reformed Mother Church (NG Moederkerk).

Inaugurated in 1879 after a grueling 22 years of stop-and-start construction plagued by intense droughts and financial squabbles, this massive structure is widely considered the finest work of the legendary architect Carl Otto Hager.

Built entirely from beautifully dressed local grey sandstone, the building is a glorious, textbook example of Neo-Gothic Revival architecture. Every classic hallmark is here: dramatic soaring spires, deep-set pointed arch windows, massive structural buttresses, and delicate stone tracery.

Because the local sandstone was of such exceptionally high quality, imported master stonemasons from England were able to carve intricate, delicate flower designs and geometric trefoils straight into the facade.

Most surprising of all for a traditional, conservative Karoo church are the prominent, highly stylized gargoyles leaping out from the roofline. Functioning both as architectural waterspouts to shed rain from the vast stone roof and as classic medieval symbolic guardians, these stone beasts give the Moederkerk an eerie, sweeping cathedral atmosphere that feels more like the rainy heart of Europe than the sun-baked plains of the interior. It is an absolute architectural anchor point that perfectly frames the era Sarel du Plessis lived in.

The Art of the Roadside Braai

2026-05-23T08:49:00.000+02:00

A lot of good things in life start with the letter B. Bikes, Braais and Beaches are three of our favourites. But combining a braai with a bike ride? That’s a bit more challenging. Space is limited, and you don’t exactly want to strap a Weber to your panniers. Still, where there’s a will, there’s a way and we’ve found some simple, road-tested solutions.

Packing Light: The Road Braai Kit

Sure, there are some clever little travel braais out there: compact, foldable, even designed specifically for motorcycles. The problem is, they’re often expensive and, honestly, overkill. You don’t need a fancy setup. Just a small grid with a foldable stand. We found one that comes with its own cover and fits neatly into a topbox. Perfect.

To round off the kit, we added:

A short braai tong.
Miniature picnic-sized spices and salts.
A small casserole (optional, but handy).
Firelighters and matches.

A grocery bag full of small wood pieces we collected after previous braais — useful for a quick fire, and the bag doubles up as rubbish storage afterwards.

What goes on the Grid?

Think simple, tasty, and easy to pack Boerewors rolls is the go-to solution here, but not your only option. You can swap the wors for sosaties for instance.

Steak or chops with braaibroodjies is also an option and yes, we even have a topbox-friendly method for the broodjies. Sandwiches don’t travel well, especially in a violently shaking Topbox. One gravel road and the sandwich is transformed into a wet little bread ball with some of the ingredients protruding on the sides. So, the whole idea of having a braaibroodtjie has to be approached from a whole new angle.

Firstly, the bread. Think compact and sturdy that would hold up traveling in a Topbox. Our choice fell on bought roosterkoek. Next, we had a look at ingredients. Tomato might not be ideal, but there’s a plethora of other options available. Coming up with new ingredients and recipes was half the fun.

We came up with 5 different combinations: The first was Cream cheese, Biltong and Cheddar. The second was a rather fancy Bacon, Brie and Caramelized onions. The easy option was Ham, Cheese and Greenpepper. The fourth option was Salami, Mozzarella and Mushrooms and lastly, a 3 Cheeses and Garlic.

We preprepared our braaibroodjies the night before the ride and wrapped our creations in foil and popped them into the refrigerator. The next morning we loaded the topbox and set off for the ultimate roadside braai. The braaibroodjies held up well traveling in the topbox, and were easy to braai in the foil with nothing falling out etc. This worked almost better than expected, and now we can’t wait to start expanding on the menu options!

The meat was pre-marinated and vacuum-sealed. We kept in a smaller cool bag with ice packs that kept everything cold and fresh. Pack it tight, insulate it well, and you might even have ice left for a drink by the time the fire is ready. No leaks, no fuss, and it’s ready to go straight on the fire.

The Spirit of It All

A roadside braai isn’t about the gear, it’s about the moment. It’s about pulling over somewhere quiet, firing up a grid, and enjoying a proper South African meal under the open sky. Minimalist, practical, and unforgettable.

So next time you pack the bike, leave a little space for the grid and the wors. You never know when the road will hand you the perfect braai spot.

Kom-se-Pad: ’n Verborge Juweel

2026-05-09T08:12:00.000+02:00

Daar is paaie wat jy ry om van punt A na punt B te kom. En dan is daar paaie wat jy ry bloot vir die ervaring. Kom-se-Pad, diep in die Knysna-woude, is laasgenoemde. Ek het onlangs weer besluit om my motorfiets se wiele daarheen te draai – dis vir seker een van die mooiste, indien nie dié mooiste pad in die Tuinroete.

Vanaf die N2 langs die Knysna meer neem jy Ou Kaapse weg Noordwaarts, dieselfde pad waar die Knysna Hill Climb aangebied word, en net verby die Simola Gholf-landgoed as die pad ‘n grondpad raak draai jy links na die Gouna bosstasie. Die roete self is ongeveer 15 km lank, van Gouna in die weste na Diepwalle in die ooste. Dis ‘n kronkelende gruispaadjie, smal en soms hobbelrig, met gradiënte wat van sag (1:30) tot steiler (1:8) wissel. Die pad is deel van die ou bosroetes, en jy deel dit met bergfietsryers en soms bosvoertuie. Wees versigtig vir hulle op blinde draaie. ‘n Permit word benodig om die pad te ry en jy kan een verkry by SANParke se Diepwalle-kantoor tussen 07:00 en 17:00, of jy kan betaal by die hek, digby Gouna.

Gouna self het ‘n ryk geskiedenis. In 1881 het die Kaapse regering Italiaanse immigrante, gelei deur voorouers van Rayno Sciocatti, hierheen gebring om ‘n sybedryf te begin. Hulle het verwag om moerbeibome te vind, maar die eksperiment het misluk (lees “Moerbeibos” van Dalene Matthee). Tog het hulle ‘n nalatenskap gelaat: die San Ambroso-kapel, in 1891 gebou as ‘n Rooms-Katolieke kerk, is gerestoureer in 2005 deur ‘n afstammeling. Dis ‘n klein juweel in die bos, vol stories van volharding.

Kom-se-Pad slinger soos ’n geheime tonnel deur die groen wêreld van die Outeniquaberge. Die pad self is redelik maklik rybaar – selfs ’n sedan kan dit maak – maar op ’n motorfiets kry jy die volle ervaring van die padoppervlak, die los klippies, die klam bosgrond, en die stewige ritme van jou wiele oor die ongelyke grond.

Dit’s nie ’n roete vir spoed nie; dis ’n roete om stadig te vat. Jy word omring deur ‘n groen katedraal van bome en jy ruik ‘n mengsel van varings, mos en nat grond. Hou jou oë en ore oop vir die roep van die Knysna loerie (Knysna turaco). Hy het helder groen vere op die rug en kop, ’n vurige rooi bors en onderlyf, en ’n lang stert. Die gesig het ’n goue ring om die oog wat hom baie opvallend maak wanneer jy hom dophou. Dis een van daardie spesies wat voëlkykers regoor die wêreld spesiaal kom soek in Suid-Afrika en as jy gelukkig is, sal jy een tydens ’n rit deur die Knysna-woud raaksien.

Maak seker jy kyk uit vir Grootdraai-piekniekplek, kompleet met houttafels, braaigeriewe, vars water en bos-toilette, perfek vir ’n kort stop. Hier kan jy jou valhelm af haal en die stilte in drink terwyl jy enorme geelhoutrame bewonder. Dis ook die beginpunt van die Terblans-wandelpad – as jy lus is om jou stewels aan te trek en jou bene te rek.

En dan is daar natuurlik die groot geheim van hierdie woude: die Knysna-olifante. Hierdie olifante, die suidelikste in Afrika, was eens duisende sterk, maar jag en habitatverlies het hulle getal verminder tot miskien net een of twee oorblywende. Hulle is sedert 1908 beskerm, maar bly ontwykend in die bosse rondom Diepwalle en Gouna. Min mense het die geluk om een te sien, maar net die moontlikheid dat jy jou motorfiets hier deur olifantgebied ry, laat jou rêrig nederig voel. Dis asof die woud iets groots en tydloos fluister.

Teen die einde van Kom-se-Pad, waar die bome plek maak vir ooptes en berge in die verte, besef jy jy’t nie net ’n roete gery nie, jy’t ’n ervaring beleef. Vir enige motorfietsryer wat hou van avontuur, natuurskoon en ’n tikkie misterie, is Kom-se-Pad ’n moet. Dis ‘n portaal na die verlede, skilderagtige motorfietsritte, rustige verkenning, voëlkyk en bosbraaie.

Pak jou fiets, maak vol jou tenk, en gaan ontdek hierdie verborge juweel van die Tuinroete.

The Line in the Sand

2026-05-02T14:05:00.000+02:00

The Southernmost Battle of the Anglo-Boer War

If you turn off the N2 outside Riversdale and point your wheels south onto the R305 toward Stilbaai, you are driving onto a stretch of coastal asphalt that holds a unique, dramatic title in military history.

Roughly 10 km down this road, standing silently on the coastal plain, is a modest stone monument. Hundreds of holidaymakers, surfers, and travelers pass it every day, assuming it is just another generic historical marker. It isn’t. This roadside pillar marks a genuine geographical extreme: the absolute southernmost clash of arms of the entire Anglo-Boer War. This is the story of the Skirmish of Riversdale, a fast, fierce gunfight in the coastal scrub that brought a continent-spanning war right to the edge of the Indian Ocean.

By September 1901, the Anglo-Boer War had fundamentally changed. The grand, setpiece battles of the northern plains: with their massive infantry charges and heavy artillery duals: were over. The Boer forces had transitioned into highly elusive, fast-moving guerrilla commandos.

Their strategy was simple yet devastating: penetrate deep into the British-controlled Cape Colony, wreck railway lines, ambush supply columns, and force the British military to scatter its massive army to hunt them down.

Commandant Jan Theron, a daring and aggressive guerrilla leader, spearheaded one of these deep-south incursions. Moving through the rugged mountain passes and dropping down into the Southern Cape coastal belt, Theron’s commando caught the British high command completely off guard. No one expected a Boer force to push this close to the southern coastline.

With regular British troops stretched thin and miles away, the defense of the district fell entirely onto the shoulders of ordinary locals. The Riversdale District Mounted Troops and the Riversdale Town Guards: comprised mostly of local farmers, shopkeepers, and townsfolk: were hastily mobilized under the tactical command of a local officer, Lieutenant Smalberger.

On the morning of September 12, 1901, the two forces collided.

Theron’s veteran guerrilla commando, moving swiftly across the rural coastal plains where the R305 runs today, intercepted Smalberger’s local defense force. There were no trenches, no fortresses, and no heavy cannons. This was raw, instinctive frontier warfare.

The men scrambled for cover behind the low limestone ridges, sandy hollows, and thick dune scrub. For hours, the quiet coastal air was shattered by the sharp crack of Mauser and Lee-Metford rifles. Smalberger’s men, knowing they were the only line of defense protecting their hometown and the coastal hamlets ahead, fiercely held their ground against the seasoned invaders.

While the skirmish wasn’t a massive strategic turning point that altered the final outcome of the war, its geography earned it a permanent, legendary status in South African military history.

When the gunfire finally ceased and Theron’s commando melted back into the Karoo interior, a definitive line had been drawn in the sand. No other armed engagement, no other bullet fired, and no other blood shed during the entire three-year conflict occurred further south on the African continent than right here on the Stilbaai road.

Exactly one hundred years later, in 2001, this stone centenary monument was erected on the roadside to mark the spot where those local guards and Boer riders traded shots within smelling distance of the sea.

The next time you are heading down to Stilbaai for a weekend getaway, don’t just keep your foot flat on the accelerator. As you hit the 10 km mark on the R305, ease off the throttle and look for the stone pillar on the roadside verge. Pull over, step out into the coastal wind, and take a look at the surrounding plains. It is a powerful experience to realize that this peaceful, sun-drenched landscape was once the literal end of the line for a war that shook the British Empire.

The best travel stories aren’t always found at the major tourist hubs. Sometimes, they are found on a quiet stretch of coastal road, where a handful of locals stood their ground and made history at the very edge of the map.

The Silent Architect of the Garden Route

2026-04-25T13:57:00.000+02:00

Remembering Adam de Smidt

In the sprawling history of the Garden Route, one name echoes louder than any other. Bain. Thomas Bain, “The Man with the Theodolite Eye,” is rightly celebrated as the genius who carved roads into mountains that many deemed impassable. His name is on plaques, in history books, and on the lips of every tour guide from Mossel Bay to Storms River.

Yet, history rarely happens in a vacuum. Beside the charismatic Bain stood another figure, a man whose contributions to the way we move through this landscape are just as profound, if far quieter. His name was Adam de Smidt. He was Bain’s brother-in-law, his professional rival, and the unsung engineer who built the foundations of the Garden Route we know today.

For the resident driving from George to Wilderness, or the tourist heading inland toward the magic of the Klein Karoo, you are almost certainly riding on the legacy of Adam de Smidt.
The Gentleman Engineer

Unlike the self-taught, rugged Bains, Adam de Smidt was a man of precise training. He was one of the first qualified geometric engineers in the Cape Colony. Contemporary accounts describe him not as an adventurer, but as a gentleman possessed of an “unflinching and fearless determination.” He did not seek out the most dramatic cliffs merely for the challenge. He sought the most logical, efficient path for commerce and travel.

It was perhaps inevitable that these two distinct personalities, the artistic visionary Bain and the pragmatic De Smidt, would clash.

Photo credit: Adam de Smidt www.theheritageportal.co.za/

The War for the Seven Passes

Their relationship fractured during the construction of one of the Garden Route’s most beloved treasures: the Old Seven Passes Road between George and Knysna.

In the 1860s, the government tasked the two brothers-in-law with connecting the timber forests of Knysna to the commercial centre of George. They split the massive undertaking down the middle. Bain took the challenging eastern sector from Knysna, home to the formidable Homtini Gorge. De Smidt took the western sector leading out of George.

De Smidt worked with remarkable speed. He carved out the Kaaimansgat Pass, the Silwer River Pass, and the Touw River Pass. His routes were elegant, sensible, and finished ahead of schedule. Meanwhile, Bain was bogged down in the dramatic engineering puzzle of the Homtini.

The professional disagreements over routing became personal. De Smidt, frustrated by what he saw as Bain’s unnecessary flair for the dramatic and slow progress, eventually purchased a farm near his construction camp at the Touw River. He named it Woodifield. He retreated there to escape the tension, and history tells us the two men never spoke again.

When you drive that winding, forested road today, realize that you are traversing a family feud preserved in gravel and stone.
Opening the Doors to the Karoo

De Smidt’s influence did not stop at the coastal plateau. For those of us living along the coast, the Swartberg mountains are the gateway to a different world. De Smidt held the keys.

In 1858, when the decision was made to blast a route through the immense cleft of Meiringspoort, it was Adam de Smidt who was the “boots on the ground” supervisor. He managed a workforce of nearly a hundred laborers, turning a rough track used by wool farmers into a viable economic artery that connected the port of Mossel Bay with the interior.

Two years later, after a devastating flood destroyed initial attempts to open Seweweekspoort nearby, De Smidt was called in to salvage the project. He spent two years taming that UNESCO World Heritage site. He took a journey that once required a brutal, six-day struggle through the riverbed and turned it into a three-hour scenic drive.
The Final Torch

Perhaps the most telling measure of De Smidt’s character happened far from the Garden Route. In 1864, the patriarch of South African road building, Andrew Geddes Bain (Thomas’s father), died before he could finish his final masterpiece, the massive Katberg Pass in the Eastern Cape.

It was Adam de Smidt who stepped in. He spent two years faithfully executing the old master’s vision, ensuring the legacy was completed without taking the glory for himself.

Today, Thomas Bain gets the statues and the accolades. But Adam de Smidt got the job done. Next time you navigate the smooth, logical curves leading out of George, take a moment to acknowledge the silent architect who knew that the ultimate journey was not just about the scenery, but about the quality of the road beneath your wheels.

Op die spoor van ‘n moordenaar

2026-04-11T13:29:00.000+02:00

Daar is dinge wat gebeur in hierdie wêreld wat ons nooit sal verstaan nie. Ons kan dit net aanvaar en later daarop terugkyk en weet dat alles so gebeur het.

Toe die moordenaar Piet Matthyse op 8 Oktober 1947 in die rondgaande hof op Oudtshoorn deur regter G. Steyn ter dood veroordeel is, was dit die herinneringe aan ’n vrou, en nie die bedreiging van die galg nie, waaroor hy vir die hof iets te sê gehad het, want Matthyse was nie net ’n moordenaar nie. Hy was ook ’n verleier van vroue en uiteindelik ’n verkragter.

So beland ek, laat op ‘n Vrydag middag, langs die monument van ‘n man. ‘n Skielike knal van die donderweer laat my hop soos ek skrik. Dis asof die natuur self die tragedie wat hom destyds hier afgespeel het, herhaal.

En dit klink belaglik as jy jouself nie daai omstandighede bevind nie, maar ek kon dit aanvoel in my gebeendere. Ek staan alleen hier, maar die mense van die gebeure van daai tyd kon ek aanvoel, asook die boosheid wat hulle hier vasgekeer het en die waarskuwing van ‘n kind wat werklikheid geword het op daardie verskriklike dag.

Skaars 100m van my af, aan die anderkant van die pad is die plek vanwaar die skoot geklap het, gemerk met wit klippe.

So, wat het my tot hier gebring? Hier, langs ‘n monument vir ‘n polisieman, gade en pa? Hier, op die spoor van ‘n moordenaar?

Daar is min dinge in die lewe wat jou so vry kan laat voel soos ‘n motorfiets. En as die fiets boonop ‘n Avontuur fiets is, dan kan jy die agterpaaie vat en die wêreld gaan verken. So, as ek hoor van ‘n legende hier, of ‘n storie daar, dan pak ek die Africa Twin en ek gaan soek daai storie. Want dan is dit nie meer net ‘n storie nie, dan word die sinne en karakters en gebeure in daai storie weer werklikheid. Jy hoor nie net die storie nie, jy lééf dit. Want jy was daar.

In Ladismith en Van Wyksdorp se wêreld word daar tot vandag toe stories oor Matthyse vertel. Hoeveel daarvan die waarheid en niks anders as die waarheid is nie, kan ’n mens net raai, maar dat daar meestal met ’n mate van bewondering van hom gepraat word, is seker. En so het die storie my laat beland op die pad na Van Wyksdorp.

’n Mens kan Van Wyksdorp van vier ander dorpe af benader, maar nie een van die paaie is geteer nie. Die pad van Ladismith af het ’n goeie ryvlak omdat dit gereeld geskraap word. Wanneer daar egter ’n voertuig verby kom, moet ’n mens so bietjie spoed verminder, want vir ’n rukkie is daar niks anders as stof voor jou nie.

Die mooiste pad na Van Wyksdorp is dalk die een van Calitzdorp af oor die Rooibergpas. Hom moet jy maar plek-plek versigtig ry. Moet ook nie haastig raak nie, want daar is net te veel plekkies wat jou tot stilhou verlei. Bo-op Rooiberg, byvoorbeeld, is daar ’n piekniekplek waar vroeëre reisigers, dié wat met perdekarre en ossewaens die berge oor is, ’n klipstapel laat verrys het. Met elke oortog is ’n gebed gedoen en ’n klip op die bestaande hoop geplaas.

Om van Riversdal af by Van Wyksdorp uit te kom ry ’n mens deur die lieflike Garciapas (geteer) en dan met die grondpad al langs die Langeberg tot waar die naambordjie jou links laat wegdraai.

My roete hierheen loop egter vanaf Herbertsdale. Dis ’n mooi kronkelpad tussen plase deur bergop. Ek maak eers ‘n stop op ‘n makadamia plaas, by die in-die-middel-van-nêrens Nuthouse Pub, om die hitte te verdryf en die droë keel te lawe. Daarna verder met die Cloetespas oor die Langeberg tot in die Klein Karoo. Dan dan sak jy af na die Gouritsrivier (’n lekker piekniekplek) en beur opnuut die skerp steiltes uit tot op die Klein Karoo se vlaktes.

Die moordenaar Piet Matthyse sou al hierdie paaie geken het, én ’n klompie ander wat hy net met boerbokke en bobbejane gedeel het. So in die ry raak my verbeelding maklik met my op hol, dan verwag ek so half dat Piet Matthyse in my spieëltjie agter in die pad gaan staan wanneer die stof loop lê. Maar hy is nie daar nie, net sy naam en die verhale oor hom.

Tydens my gesnuffel op die spoor van ’n lank reeds gevange en opgehangde Piet Matthyse het ek op heelwat stories afgekom. Mense sê daai Piet was ’n slim man. Hy’t partykeer agteruit geloop na ’n plek toe sodat die polisie sy spoor verkeerd sou vat. Piet Matthyse se dinge het kleintyd al begin. Op tien of 12 was die gereg reeds op sy spoor, en toe al was hy die polisie een voor. Wanneer die wêreld te warm vir Matthyse geword het, het hy die pad gevat. Meestal weliswaar te voet, maar soms ook, wanneer hy die dag genoeg geld gesteel het, per trein. So het hy na Port Elizabeth gereis, na Durban, Johannesburg, Warrenton, Kimberley en Graaff-Reinet. Hy sou maande uit die Klein Karoo wegbly, lank genoeg om sy ou spore te laat koud word. Ander kere het nuwe moeilikheid wat hy gemaak het of geldnood hom teruggedryf. Eers op 37-jarige leeftyd is hy net buite Van Wyksdorp in hegtenis geneem nadat hy ’n polisieman doodgeskiet het.

As daar een ding is wat ’n mens by Piet Matthyse kan leer, is dit geduld. Hy het ’n opstal of veepos dae lank dopgehou om die kom en gaan van die inwoners te bestudeer voordat hy die huis sou betree om te vat wat hy wil hê, selfs ’n vrou die kere wat hy sy sin kon kry. So het Matthyse kos gesteel en anderman se skaap geslag. Op ’n dag het hy by ’n winkel op Kareevlaktestasie ingebreek en ’n briefie agtergelaat: “Oubaas, ek is jammer die winkel was toe. Ek het dit toe oopgebreek en my sommer self gehelp en sal die winkel weer goed toemaak. Ek is nou ’n soldaat. Sê groete aan Ma.” Toe hy ’n veewagter se kos gegaps het, het hy vir die ou man geskrywe: “Oompie, ek sit ’n paar geldstukkies vir jou neer, want ek het nie die kos gesteel nie, ek het mos daarvoor betaal – Piet Soldaat.” ’n Man met humorsin, onse Piet. Van tyd tot tyd is perdekommando’s agter hom aangestuur, maar niemand kon hom vastrek nie.

Nadat hy die skaapwagter Jan Kamfer se huis rot en kaal besteel het, was daar van Jan se vrou, Roos, geen spoor nie. Eers later het die polisie uitgevind dat sy vrywillig saam met Piet die berge in is en daar het hulle haar later in hegtenis geneem.

Piet skryf op ’n Union Brand Jelly Crystals-pakkie: “Ek loop saam met die itokloosie. Op Vrydag sal ek Roos weer kom haal. Ek gaan Langeberg op, dan kom ek Swartberg af. Stilletjies.”

Maar toe daag hy die nag van 22 Desember 1946 omstreeks middernag gewapen met ’n gesteelde geweer by Jim en Esther Grootboom se eenslaapkamerhuisie in die George-distrik op, en daarna sou niks meer snaaks wees nie. Grootboom het uitgeroep: “Die Here behoed ons!” Skote het geklap. In die sitkamer het twee kinders, Annie Grootboom (17) en Willem Plaatjies (12), grootoog gesit. Annie het probeer wegkom, maar Piet het haar gevang. Hy is met die twee veld in, waar Willem weggekom en na ’n plaashuis gehardloop het om hulp te soek.

Piet het geweet dat die polisie nou met nuwe ywer na hom sou soek. Hy had niks meer om te verloor nie en het Annie verkrag nadat hy haar met die dood gedreig het. Daarna het Piet haar laat gaan. Sy het ’n vragmotor voorgekeer.

Die nuus van die Grootboom-moorde het soos ’n veldbrand deur die Klein Karoo versprei. Piet Matthyse was nie meer net ’n inbreker en veedief nie. Die polisie, bygestaan deur ’n bloedhond, het Piet se spoor gevolg van waar hy by ’n veewagter se huis ingebreek het. Op Kersdag het hulle afgekom op ’n plek waar die voortvlugtige geslaap het. Die kole van sy vuur het nog gegloei.

Op 26 Desember het Matthyse ’n ma en haar twee dogters gedwing om hom te vergesel. Twee nagte moes die ouer vrou ter oorlewing saam met hom slaap. Toe een dogter op 28 Desember flou val, het hy die drie laat omdraai huis toe. Piet Matthyse se spoor draai by Volmoed, wes van Oudtshoorn, in die rigting van Van Wyksdorp.

Die Burger berig op 31 Desember 1946: “’n Kleurling is gistermiddag omstreeks vyfuur sowat 6 myl buitekant Van Wyksdorp in die rigting van Riversdal in hegtenis geneem nadat die soekgeselskap van sowat 100 konstabels en nagenoeg net soveel boere deur die dag die omgewing gefynkam het. Gisteroggend omstreeks agtuur is Kaptein B.M. van Heerden, Distrikskommandant van Polisie op Oudtshoorn, in ’n geweergeveg met die Kleurling gedood. Twee konstabels is in die geveg gewond.”

Kaptein van Heerden se dogtertjie het, toe hy sy huis die dag voor die skietery verlaat, vir hom gesê: “Moenie gaan nie, Pappa, die outa sal Pappa net doodmaak.” Ironies was die kaptein se doopname Barend Matthys. Hy het daardie oggend drie keer teruggegaan om sy geliefdes te groet.

In die hof het Piet Matthyse die volgende gesê: “Die meeste moorde wat in die wêreld plaasvind, kom deur ’n meisiemens. Ek sou like dat sy ook iets oorkom.”

Het die onbekende “sy” dalk Piet Matthyse se hart gebreek sodat hy onverdiende wraak teen alle vroue gekoester het, of had hy maar, soos die Bybelse Adam, iemand nodig om die las van sy eie swakheid te help dra?

Kaptein van Heerden se weduwee, Fransie, het korrespondeer met Piet Matthyse in die tronk, hom later besoek en volgens vertellings het hy tot bekering gekom en om vergifnis gevra voor sy dood.

Maar dit is nie die einde van die storie nie…

Die insident het ‘n groot impak gehad op die lewe van Soon van Wyk. Hy was nog nie eers ‘n korrespondent vir Die Burger nie, toe beland sy berig oor die insident in 1946 op die voorblad van die koerant. Die einste Soon van Wyk het later, met behulp van ene Barend Shreuders eiehandig die monument vir Kapt B.M. van Heerden by Soutkloof opgerig. Kaptein van Heerden se vrou, dogter en seun was teenwoordig met die bekendstelling. Die inskripsie lees: “Kommandant B.M. van Heerden. Hy het sy lewe hier gegee in die uitvoering van sy pligte op 30 Dec 1946.” Soon van Wyk het die tralies van die Monument jaarliks kom verf tot en met sy aftrede.

En so beland ek hier. Op die snikhete Vrydag middag langs ‘n stofpad staan my ysterperd en afkoel. Vandag lyk die monument en traliewerk nog heel skaflik. As jy ooit na Van Wyksdorp ry, kom stop hier, skakel die enjin af, en luister. Nie na wát nie, luister sommer net.

Want dié wêreld het nog baie stories…

Ken julle die storie van die laaste man wat in George in die openbaar gehang is? Gert was ‘n voorslagboer, veedief, geweldenaar, moordenaar of selfs ‘n minnaar. Dit hang net af met wie jy praat. Wat wel waar is, is dat sy bynaam Bloubaard was. En hy het hier naby geboer…

Gedenksteen vir Kommandant B.M. van Heerden.

Wit geverfde klippe teen die koppie oorkant die pad wys vanwaar die skote geklap het.

Die ingang na Van Wyksdorp.

Die pad vanaf Herbertsdale oor Cloetes Pas na Van Wyksdorp.

Nuthouse Pub op Cloetes Pas.

Brug oor die Gouritsrivier (’n lekker piekniekplek) voor jy opnuut opbeur teen die skerp steiltes uit tot op die Klein Karoo se vlaktes.

*Bronne: Verskeie boorlinge van die distrik Ladismith, die C.P. Nel-museum op Oudtshoorn, geocaching.com, en die artikel “Die moordenaar van die Klein Karoo” deur R.G. Grebe in Die Brandwag van 10 Desember 1976.

**As Bloubaard se storie jou nuuskierigheid geprikkel het, lees die boek “Roman” deur Cas Wepener, saal jou ysterperd op en ry. Gaan soek Bloubaard se graf en as jy hom kry, kyk na die berge en klowe om jou, en luister.

A Two-Hour Holiday

2026-03-28T11:58:00.000+02:00

There are days when the to-do list feels endless, when deadlines stack up like roadblocks, and you can almost hear the hum of the laptop begging you not to leave. On one such day, I decided to ignore the calls of work and steal two hours for myself. Not a big trip, not a planned holiday — just a micro adventure. The plan? Fire up the bike, chase a bit of fresh air, and reset the mind on some of the most scenic roads the Garden Route has to offer. What followed was a micro adventure that proved you don’t need a week off to find freedom, just a bit of road, a sense of curiosity, and a willingness to go.

The 7 Passes Road was my chosen route, the historic stretch linking George and Knysna, built by Thomas Bain in the late 1800s. Today it’s a quiet, almost forgotten route, perfect for riders and travellers looking to trade speed for scenery. What it lacks in speed, it makes up for with quiet bends, forest canopies, and stone bridges that whisper stories of another time.

The daylight filtered through the tall indigenous trees as I rode eastward. Riding through the forest is never just about what you see, it’s about the smells of damp earth, the cool air brushing your face, and the sudden bursts of sunlight breaking through leaves. On the bike you feel completely part of the elements, every sense tuned in.

Soon I found myself rolling over the old Kaaimans River Bridge, an arched relic of another century. Further along, the Silver River Bridge stretched out, elegant yet humble, spanning its valley as it has for generations. These bridges are more than infrastructure. They’re part of the Garden Route’s living history, reminders of how travel once meant patience, craftsmanship, and respect for the land.

From there, I wound my way up to Wilderness Heights, where the road opened up and the sea revealed itself in all its shimmering blues. The contrast from forest to ocean is one of the Garden Route’s great joys. In the space of a few minutes you go from green tunnels to endless horizons. I stopped to take it in, letting the salty breeze and the crash of waves below sink into my bones.

The descent into Wilderness is pure joy. Sweeping bends, glimpses of the lagoon, and that sense of freedom only a motorcycle ride delivers. Along the lagoon, the road runs so close to the water you feel like you’re skimming its surface.

I carried on to Leentjiesklip Beach, where I parked and stretched my legs in the sand. There I found the statue of Leentjie, and paused to read the story behind the name. Standing there, with the waves rolling in, I felt that thread of connection between past and present, between the stories we carry and the places we pass through.

After a few quiet minutes on the beach, it was time to head back. I rode once more up Wilderness Heights, looping back to George via the same 7 Passes Road. In just two hours, I’d shifted my perspective. The forest, the bridges, the ocean, the lagoon, even the gaze of Leentjie on her beach, they’d all reminded me why we ride, why we explore, why sometimes it’s worth leaving the emails unread.

It wasn’t a long holiday. No booking, no packed bags. Just a bike, a bit of sunshine, and the willingness to go. A micro adventure — two hours that felt like two days.

And when I finally rolled back into George, the work was still waiting. But I was clearer, lighter, and reminded once again that adventure doesn’t have to be far or long, it just has to be taken.

Scenic Rides & Drives: Bloukrans Pass

2026-03-14T11:50:00.000+02:00

Say “Bloukrans” and most South Africans immediately recognize the name. This is the spot where the adventurous and somewhat crazy do what is reputed to be the highest bungee jump in the world. It is an adrenaline-pumping jump into the gorge and to the river a whopping 216 meters below.

Aerial view of the new N2 bridge over the Bloukrans gorge / Photo: Panoramio

Somewhat forgotten though, is that Bloukrans has something else to offer, something that should be an even bigger draw card for tourism, but is sadly neglected. The absolutely spectacular Bloukrans Pass. The old, original pass.

I rode this pass with my motorcycle about two decades ago and even though it was badly in need of maintenance even then, the sheer beauty of this road took my breath away. Because of the neglect and lack of maintenance the road was closed soon after and blocked off on both ends with a large heap of gravel.

Fast Forward to 2024 and the Western Cape Government decided to repair the pass, all the way to the Western Cape Province border, which, sadly, is only about half of the pass. It does present a wonderful opportunity though to access the pass and enjoy is splendour, without having to negotiate a lot of traffic as the Eastern Cape side is still blocked off (as of December 2024).

When the government first started considering a coastal road between Port Elizabeth and Plettenberg Bay in the 1880’s it was the Master pass-builder, Thomas Bain, who was tasked to plan a route through both of the formidable obstacles of the Grootrivier and Bloukrans gorges within the Tsitsikamma Forests.

Back then the only route between Port Elizabeth and George was via the Langkloof and over the Outeniqua Mountains, via the Montagu Pass, as the Tsitsikamma forests were thought to be impenetrable. In 1869, after a series of fires laying vast tracts of forests to waste, the perfect opportunity presented itself for Bain and his team with to plot a suitable route as an alternative to the journey over the Outeniqua Mountains via the Langkloof.

It is with great excitement I approached this pass from the still blocked Eastern Cape side. Here you can still see the heap of gravel blocking the road and the evidence of someone having to have an abrupt stop because of it.

There is a small gap on the right where a bike or small car can easily pass and get access to the closed pass. But note – this road is dangerous. It is overgrown to the point of single and traffic, the road did fall away in places and there is even evidence of recent rockfalls.

As I entered the pass I encountered two motorcycles with sidecars heading the other way, but we passed each other easily. Riding through here in a sidecar must be a unique perspective on its own! I also encountered two vehicles from the front, but like myself they were going slowly and we saw each other in plenty of time.

Driving though the forest on an abandoned road like this is almost Jurassic-like. If feels like the forest is watching you and you seem to expect to see wildlife with every corner you turn. The air is fresh and the ambient temperature much better than the hot day I experienced on the motorway.

Just as you settle into the experience you turn another corner and see the beautiful bridge over the Bloukrans River. This is the Bloukrans Gorge and I got here in a much better and more enjoyable way than jumping off a bridge!

You are now entering the Western Cape Provence and what a difference it makes! The old pass has been beautifully restored and the road surface is a pleasure to ride. The going is still slow, with lots of photo stops, even though no photo can do this scene justice.

And all to soon it’s over. The pass exits close to the N2 toll gate, unfortunately. So heading west on the N2 you’ll still have to pay Zacchaeus* his toll or, if you have time, you can continue to Natures Valley and keep exploring this wonderful area.

On a side note – when we plan and discover routes (yes, you can discover routes on a map – read here) we use the Tracks 4 Africa and Slingsby Paper maps. These are an investment in your adventuring life and well worth it.

Another investment well worth it, that we’d like to endorse (and no, we are not paid for this promotion – I recommend these purely because I myself found it to be extremely useful) is a subscription to www.mountainpassessouthafrica.co.za. It has a wealth of information on every pass and I fully agree with them when they say: “Bloukrans pass is surely worthy of National Monument status!”

* Zacchaeus was a chief tax-collector at Jericho in the Bible.

Scenic Rides & Drives: Paardepoort and Mount Hope

2026-02-28T11:28:00.000+02:00

This scenic gem of a road is little known, and for several reasons. But it is just this, its lesser known status, that makes it extra special. You can go slower, enjoy the surroundings and even have a swim and a braai!

The route starts just North of the little town of Herold, situated in the Outeniqua mountain range. This route forms a natural extension to the historic Montagu pass that runs over the Outeniqua mountain range from George to Herold, but sadly the pass is in a state of disrepair currently. It is probably the splendour of what was the Montagu Pass, that made Paardepoort a little more obscure and much less known.

Our featured route is just over 44km and will take about 1 hour travel time without stops, but stop you will. It starts on the N9, crosses the N12 and exits onto R328 between Oudtshoorn and Mossel Bay, North of Robertson Pass.

Traveling along the N9 from George to Uniondale, about 30km after you left George, you will find the turn-off to Herold on the right and about 100m after that the turn-off to Paardepoort on your left.

You turn off the N9 and straight onto gravel, heading North.

Across the plain and just before you enter the poort through the mountain, there is a somewhat discreet sign, announcing you are entering Paardepoort.

As soon as you enter the Poort you can see the old road, built with the dry-stone wall method similar to Swartberg Pass, on the opposite side of the river.

According to the website Mountainpasses SA, once the Montagu Pass had been completed in 1847 the convicts whom had worked on the Montagu Pass were transferred to Paardepoort, where an obvious path through the mountains was a natural progression of the Montagu pass northwards to Oudtshoorn. The original road on the western bank of the Doring River was only one lane wide, but it did offer passing opportunities. The road was opened in 1850.

The new road on the eastern bank of the poort was built in in the 1930’s offering a safer, wider road. The road has been blasted out of the rock-face and still remains fairly narrow. The scenery is pleasant as the road meanders next to the river, faithfully copying its course for several kilometers. The stonework on the new road is a work of art in itself.

At one point the river forms a pool, perfect for swimming if it is a hot day. Just make sure you park somewhere safe, not obscuring the road.

This is an older photo of myself riding through Paardepoort in the opposite direction during the launch of the new BMW 1250GS. It is my favourite Paardepoort photo, taken by Rob Till.

Exiting the poort into the Klein Karoo proper you ride / drive a short distance to come to a cross in the road that my friends and I call the centre of the world if you are an Adventure Biker. We sometimes even meet up at this crossing before a ride. Why? Because from this point you can go anywhere! Riding South you go through Paardepoort, you used to be able to cross Montagu pass and if you kept going you could ride all the way to Cape Augulhas, the Southernmost point of Africa, even crossing a river using a pontoon at one stage.

Riding East you can do Baviaanskloof, Addo, Lesotho and all the way to Mozambique. If you hop the pond you can even ride Madagascar! Go North and you can ride Swartberg Pass, the Karoo, all the way up through Africa and even up to Russia and the Road of Bones. East lies the Cederberg, West Coast and if you want you can travel further East and go ride South America! All from this spot.

Today we will not be traveling that far though, we head east.

This shortish stretch of around 8km will take you to the N12 where you turn right direction Oudtshoorn, but only for 800m where you leave the tar again turning left toward Zebra.

This is the only section that can be somewhat tricky. After about 3km at the first turnoff keep left and the at the Y keep right. Just make sure you follow the signs that say Mount Hope.

Now you can relax and enjoy the rest of the Klein Karoo Scenery. It changes with every season and is especially spectacular after it has rained.

Around 12km after the Zebra turn-off the turns right. You can carry on straight also, but its quite clear that the main route turns right.

The road takes you over some heights and at the top there is a natural viewpoint over the whole area with a small clearing perfect for a roadside braai (we are busy with a roadside braai project also, so check back on this website soon if that is something that interests you).

From here you drop down into a green valley and all the way down to the river.

And all to soon its over. The road exits onto the R328 connecting Oudtshoorn and Mossel Bay. If you wanted to do the route in reverse, this is where you would start. The sign says Mount Hope.

When we plan and discover routes (yes, you can discover routes on a map – read here) we use the Tracks 4 Africa and Slingsby Paper maps. These are an investment in your adventuring life and well worth it. Another investment well worth it, that we’d like to endorse (and no, we are not paid for this promotion – I recommend these purely because I myself found it to be extremely useful) is a subscription to www.mountainpassessouthafrica.co.za.

The subscription membership part is where the bulk of the info of Paardepoort comes from. I have known about and ridden Paardepoort for 10+ years and even I learned a lot more about the poort after I joined MPSA. It is an invaluable resource if you like to explore our country!

Scenic Rides & Drives: The Friemersheim Secret

2026-02-14T10:50:00.000+02:00

The Garden Route is one of the most popular destinations in South Africa. It’s been named as one of the top Road Trip destinations in the world. You can drive anywhere in this area and its bound to be scenic. BUT! Tourists all flock to the main attractions. What about those hidden gems – the routes less travelled only the locals know about? Places devoid of crowds where you can take your time and drink in the scenery.

Friemersheim is a small agricultural community about 15 kilometres North of Groot-Brakrivier. The road to Friemersheim only goes there, so its a quiet corner of the Garden Route you are unlikely to happen upon.

This scenic route starts just North of Friemersheim looping through the forest and ends at the Southern end of the town, perfect for a ride through town at the end, witnessing Friemersheim’s second surprise – but more on that later.

The turn-off is on the right and onto gravel just before you reach Friemersheim. There are signboards directing you to Reuben Farm and to Wolkedans, a camping spot on this route.

If you ride into town and see the church on your left, you are just past the circular route’s turn-off.

If this happens turn around, just trust us on this.

This is a circular route of about 12km, running through the forest and mountains, that will take you 20 to 30 minutes on a leisurely drive.

The Friemersheim Loop starts with a ride / drive into the forest and some plantations.

The route dips down to cross the Beneke River and then rises again revealing magnificent views over the area, especially on a clear day. This is a short route, so take your time and really experience the area, the aromas, the scenery.

Riding or driving the route in this direction has the advantage of having the coastal plain and ocean in front of you most of the time.

And then the road dips down to cross the Beneke river once more, riding / driving through the cool forest before emerging and driving into Friemersheim a short while later.

Friemersheim was founded by German missionary Reverend Johann Kretzen in 1869. A school and church were built on the farm Gonnakraal, which Kretzen had bought for his sister. After her death in 1872, the farm was bequeathed to the Dutch Reformed Missionary Society, and it was later renamed Friemersheim, after Kretzen’s town of birth in Germany. It was sold to the state in the 1960’s.

What makes this town unique is the Murals!

Whether it is for historical purposes, or showing off your local heroes, or just making a statement, artists have left their mark by creating murals in the most unexpected places.

Friemersheim is literally littered with murals. This is also the reason why this route should be ridden or driven in the anti-clockwise direction we suggested. With the houses facing North, most of the murals are on the Southern sides (hence the murals on the photos being in the shadows) so driving into town from the other side you’ll miss most of the art, but driving in the Northerly direction reveals a treasure trove of murals everywhere you look!

Local artist Fourie Ackermann started this project in 2018 and it’s ongoing, so coming back every so often will reveal even more artworks.

And at the exit, the cherry on top. The beautiful church. The church is now part of the Uniting Reformed Church. It has a bell in a decorative horseshoe construction at the rear of the church. On the lip of the bell one reads John Warner & Sons London 1880.

The murals featured here are not even half of what is there. To see the rest you’ll have to go there. They unexpectedly start popping up along the route to Friemersheim and there are even some on the forest loop, so the excitement starts from the onset of the trip. Take some friends and see if you can spot them all! It’s like an afternoon adventure.

Fascinating History of the “Sugar Bridge”

2026-01-31T10:18:00.000+02:00

The old bridge over the Buffeljags (Buffelsjags) River is a fascinating little landmark with a few colourful stories attached. The bridge, built between 1845 and 1852, is believed to be the third oldest of historic significance in South Africa. By 2016, it was declared the second most endangered heritage site in the country (which sounds fancy but basically means “falling apart”).

It’s a nine-span bridge made of stone-clad piers, timber joists with braces, and a timber deck salvaged from a shipwreck of the ship Robert, wrecked in 1847 in Gordon’s Bay. The timber cost £3.00; the transport to Swellendam cost £1 000. Logistics have clearly always been a rip-off.

It formed a part of the old east-west wagon road (Groote Wagen Weg), an important transport link before modern highways. The real drama was the mortar. Portland cement wasn’t yet available in Africa, so they had to improvise. Lime mortar was too slow to harden (flood = bye-bye bridge). They tried gypsum, but it set faster than instant noodles - no time to position the blocks. The solution? Add household sugar to slow it down. Yes, this bridge was literally held together with sugar and good intentions.

Written by Jinx Louw

Micro Adventures

2026-01-17T10:04:00.000+02:00

“I Don’t Have Time” – The Magic of Micro Adventures

We’ve all said it: “I’d love to go on an adventure, but I don’t have time.” Work, kids, deadlines, life – they swallow whole weeks before you even notice. But here’s the secret: adventure doesn’t always require weeks of leave or a bulging bank account. Sometimes, it’s waiting right outside your front door.

That’s where the idea of the Micro Adventure comes in. Think of it as an adventure in bite-sized form: short, simple, and close to home. They’re for “normal” people with “normal” lives. No need for Himalayan peaks, just a free lunch hour or Saturday morning, a curious spirit, and maybe a thermos of coffee.

What Exactly Is a Micro Adventure?

In essence, a micro adventure is about stepping outside your daily routine, even if only for a few hours. It could be as small as watching the sunrise from a nearby mountain pass, camping in your backyard with the kids, or hunting down a Geocache (if you don’t know what this is, Google it, you wont be sorry) in your local park. It’s not about scale; it’s about mindset.

The beauty lies in their accessibility. Micro adventures don’t require extensive planning, fancy gear, or time off work. They’re affordable, achievable, and surprisingly impactful.

Why They Matter.

Life has a way of grinding us down with repetition: wake up, work, commute, sleep, repeat. Micro adventures smash through that cycle and remind you what it feels like to live curiously. They’re good for your body, mind, and spirit:

Stress relief: Spending time outdoors lowers cortisol and calms the mind.

Mood boosters: Fresh air, sunlight, and physical activity trigger endorphins and serotonin.

Creativity: Breaking routine sparks fresh thinking and sharper problem-solving.

Mindfulness: Out in nature, it’s easier to be present, noticing the sights, sounds, and scents around you.

And maybe the most important part: micro adventures rekindle your sense of wonder. They help you realise you don’t need to go far to discover something new.

Micro Adventure Ideas

1. Micro motorcycle tour – take your motorcycle ride to the next town, taking a back route.

2. Geocaching treasure hunt – join the global community of modern-day treasure seekers.

3. Botanical garden lunch break – take your sandwich somewhere new instead of eating at your desk.

4. Sunrise breakfast picnic – pack coffee and croissants, and watch the day wake up from a mountain pass or beach.

5. Family camp-out – If you are a camping family, book a stand close to or even in your town. Pitch the tent and stay there for a couple of days. You are still working, the kids are still going to school, just from the camp-site. Because you’re close to home you don’t have to pack al lot, you can grab what’s needed every day. An added bonus is that midweek bookings are usually cheap. So the days are normal, but the evenings are spend around the braai fire. A change is as good as a holiday!

Final Thought

Micro adventures are proof that you don’t need more time, money, or grand plans to live adventurously. What you need is curiosity, a willingness to step outside the ordinary, and the courage to break routine.

Adventure isn’t always on the other side of the world. Sometimes, it’s waiting just down the road.

“It’s a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there’s no knowing where you might be swept off to.” – Bilbo Baggins

Why Exploring South Africa is Great!

2026-01-03T09:48:00.000+02:00

By pure luck I was born on a farm in Africa. Specifically, South Africa, and more specifically in the heart of the Garden Route in the Southern Cape region of the Western Cape. This area is described as one of the most beautiful parts of South Africa and it’s no exaggeration, although South Africa is blessed with many and diverse breath taking areas.

Not exaggerating? OK, let’s start on a global scale. On the Southern tip of Africa, surrounded with the Atlantic Ocean in the West and the Indian Ocean in the East, lies the country of South Africa. So what makes the geography of South Africa so unique and diverse? Firstly, it is divided into three distinct regions: (1) The Coastal Plains (2) the Great Escarpment and (3) the massive interior plateau.

One of the best ways to characterize a region’s climate is through the use of the Köppen Climate Classification which divides the world into regions as a function of their average temperatures, precipitation and seasonal patterns.

In most cases a single zone covers vast areas and multiple countries before slowly transitioning into the next zone, but not so in South Africa. Due to various influences of oceanic currents and an intense topographical relief, thirteen distinct zones can be found across the country making it one of the climatically diverse countries in the world.

In the West cold and hot arid deserts are spanning over the land with the coastal areas being a mix of arid and temperate climates. The further East you move, the more intense the precipitation gets and the desert turns to Steppe and then a large temperate area. Looking over to the coast you find the tallest mountain range in South Africa before the coastal strip in the far East turns into a tropical savannah.

This climatic diversity spanning the entire country together with its climatic isolation being bound by a thick layer of equatorial and desert climates to the North also has created a very unique flora environment. Looking at the global distribution of plants the botanist Ronald Good identified six distinct natural separations of flowering plants which he calls “Floristic Kingdoms”.

Four of these, the Holarktis, Neotropis, Palaeotropis and Australis cover nearly the entire planet, but the flora that developed on the Southern tip of the African continent was determined to be too distinct to be grouped into any of these kingdoms, making it its own, Capensis, or Cape Floral Kingdom.

This relatively small area is not only very different from the rest of the world, but also extremely diverse within itself boasting thousands of different plants many of which is endemic to South Africa. To put some numbers on this, it is estimated that the roughly 200km coastal belt is home to around 9000 species of plants (mostly “Fynbos”), of which around 6000 can only be found here, on par with areas like the Malaysian Tropical Rain Forest or the Amazon. This diversity also constitutes one fifth of all plant species found across the African continent.

A single mountain like the Table Mountain outside Cape Town houses more different plant species than the entirety of the UK. These diverse ecosystems also led to the evolution of an extremely diverse fauna where South Africa joins the ranks of the so called mega- diverse countries in the world each of them boasting over 5000 endemic species. Hundreds of unique mammals, reptiles, amphibian and bird species are unique to South Africa.

The topography too is as diverse as can get. The Southwestern coastal plains are characterized by the Cape fold belt, a series of parallel running mountain ranges. From the steep cliffs of Table Mountain, the mountain ranges continue along the Southern African coastline until Mozambique where the relatively thin coastal plain rises continuously towards the inner continental shelf. The highest region of the great escarpment are the Drakensberg mountains in the South-eastern part of the country. With an elevation of over 3450m resulting in a high Alpine climate similar to the Alps in Europe. The high altitude even brings seasonal snowfall having allowed small ski resorts to operate on the highest peaks of South Africa and Lesotho. The Drakensberg escarpment is an incredible nature spectacle to explore, but the whole range spanning from Cape Town is riddled with spectacular passes. Just behind the towering escarpment the elevated land opens up to form the great African plateau which curves through the inner continent.

Despite being reasonably isolated and remote the area is so incredibly important to human history. It is thought to be the birthplace of Homo-Sapiens. We as humans could not have picked a more fascinating country to start our journey from. If pre-history is your thing, once again Southern Africa is the place to explore.

As a whole, South Africa is a fascinating country with so many geographical stories to tell. From its extremely diverse climate, fascinating mountain ranges and rivers there is something new to learn everywhere.

In most parts of our planet, you have to drive several hundred kilometres just to start seeing a change in your environment, but within a 50km radius from where I sit here typing this article, I can be on beautiful beaches, in lush forests, semi-arid Karoo, climbing mountains or exploring historic passes. Like I said, by pure luck I was born here. How blessed can one be?

Adventure Travel and the search for that Ultimate Journey

2026-01-02T09:44:00.000+02:00

There is a difference between a trip and a journey. A trip has a schedule, a destination, and a predictable arrival time. A journey, however, is what happens when you stop worrying about the destination and start paying attention to the gravel under your tires.

We spend our lives following blue lines on a GPS screen. We’ve become obsessed with the "fastest route" and the "estimated time of arrival." But in the world of adventure travelling, efficiency is the enemy of discovery.

The "Wrong Turn" is where the magic is hidden and where the story actually begins. The atmosphere changes. Suddenly, you aren't just a passenger on a pre-planned route. You are an explorer. Your senses sharpen. You are forced to engage with the topography, the sun's position, and the landmarks around you. You notice the way the light hits a particular ridge, or you find a farm stall that isn't on any map, where the coffee is hot and the conversation is better.

The best memories aren't usually the ones where everything went perfectly. The best stories are found in the detours. The moments remind us why we chose adventure travel in the first place. We didn't buy these machines to follow the crowd. We bought them because they give us the permission to be wrong and the capability to handle the consequences. The type of stories we tell over a braai fire usually begin with a missed signpost, or a moment of "I wonder where this leads."

This year, this is the philosophy we are packing in our panniers. We aren't just looking for the destination. We are looking for the story that happens when the plan falls apart.

The next time you are out on a solo Sunday run and you find yourself staring at a fork in the road that doesn't match your map, take a breath. Don't be so quick to reach for the U-turn. Ride another kilometer. See what is over the next rise.

You might just find that the wrong turn was exactly where you were supposed to be all along.

2024 Honda NX500

2024-11-12T15:51:00.001+02:00

In Adventure biking smaller and lighter is better. Few can argue this point. When you talk to overlanders, people who travel for years, most prefer simpler lighter dual-sport bikes. Bikes like the KLR650, XR650 and DR650 have crossed continents.

Recent years have seen an explosion in new, lightweight adventure bikes from virtually all brands. It is the new trend in Adventure Biking. Adventure Bikers have finally realized that pricey overweight behemoths are not ideal for the bundus, unless you are unfortunate enough to live in a part of the country where you have to travel long distances to and from your Adventure destination, maybe needing to kill 1000km on tar to get back home on the last day. Either that, or you are the type of rider who prioritizes performance and adrenalin that wants a 160hp bike that can go on gravel. Nothing wrong with that, but if you are one of the aforementioned two types, this article is not for you.

Honda launched the CB500X locally in 2023, an Adventure styled commuter bike that, despite of its origins as ‘n commuter, was reasonably good at Adventure riding. Being a parallel twin it also had advantages over the 300cc single Adventure bikes, especially when it came to highway sections. It was just a better all-rounder. Now Honda has decided to give this commuter more of an Adventure focus. Enter the NX500.

The NX nomenclature (signifying "New X-over" according to Honda) makes a comeback linking the Adventure Bike to the NX650 Dominator of the late 80’s and 90’s and emphasizing the adventurous intent of the motorcycle. The new NX undergoes a significant overhaul compared to its predecessor, with less weight and better suspension. The power is derived from the extensively revised 471cc parallel-twin engine. Despite these updates, the power output remains consistent at 47hp. In addition, Honda has fine-tuned the suspension system to improve both on-road and off-road performance.

It looks the part and boasts many practical additions that I’ll get to, but first the elephant in the room. The first thing everybody seems to refer to is the power. Not enough power! This is a perception and most of these opinions come from people who have not ridden it yet. Yes, if you are an adrenalin junkie this bike is not for you, but it’s built for adventure riding, so lets put the power in perspective. The KLR650 and XR650L produced around 40hp. The DR650 and the XR650 Dominator the bike is named after, produced around 45hp. The very capable and fuel injected XT660Z Ténéré produced 47hp. The NX500 produces 47hp, same as the pre-mentioned continent crossers. For the application as a small Adventure Bike, it is more than adequate.

Normal riding and shifting with the new slipper clutch make for an easy, leisurely ride, but you can wind the engine up a bit. Keep the revs up and the ride becomes quite spirited – more so than you might think! The rev indicator happily chases the red-line through the gears. On the highway the NX has no problem keeping up with traffic and even with my considerable weight (enough to count for 2-up in some cases) it will happily sit at highway speed all day, with no problem going up to 140km/h if you need to pass. The test bike had less than 100km on it so I did not do a top-end run, but if I had to guess I think it would reach an indicated 150km/h.

But this bike’s focus is adventure riding and gravel trips, which makes the above-mentioned interesting, but more of a side note. The revamped NX500 incorporates a fresh front design featuring an LED headlamp cluster and an expanded windscreen. The fairing has also undergone a redesign, now more sizable, enhancing the bike's overall road presence. It almost looks like a baby TransAlp. The bigger screen is an improvement and I (175cm tall) found it to be very effective at traveling speeds. Additionally, the motorcycle is equipped with a 5-inch TFT digital console that provides all the relevant info and you can even choose the dash layout, background colour and favourite info to display. New to the NX500 is the Bluetooth connectivity and the Honda Road sync app, so turn by turn navigation on screen is possible. The switchgear is new and I’m happy to report simple and intuitive to operate, unlike some of the bigger bikes and the buttons are backlit which is a welcome addition. Behind the screen above the console is a very handy bar for mounting your telephone or GPS.

The NX is a smaller bike, but it does not feel dinky. The fairings give it more presence, but it is light (196kg) and easy to get on and off of. The 830mm seat height means most riders will be able to flatfoot it, and with the higher screen it feels like you sit more “in” the bike rather than “on” it. It’s a comfortable upright seating position, perfect for long days in the saddle. On tar the twin is much smoother than the single piston bikes but the bike comes into its own on gravel where the riding style is more about touring than keeping up. New to the NX500 is Honda’s HSTC traction control system which can be switched off on the fly with the flick of a button (all bikes should be like this!). The wheel sizes are 19” front and 17” rear. Not only is this the perfect size for this bike, they’re also tubeless thanks to the new, lighter alloy rims.

Honda claims a consumption figure of 3,6L/100km, or 27km/L. On a smaller bike this number can vary a lot depending on rider weight, luggage and riding style, but regardless, the NX will cover in excess of 300km per tank (17,5L) easily, with over 400km per tank a possibility.

Smaller displacement touring is a mindset. And for those who get it, it is very rewarding. Once you’ve accepted that you’ll travel at a slower pace, you start looking around more, notice more and stop more. You take in your surroundings, almost become part of it in the moment, rather than just speeding through it. That is how you escape the rat race.

The NX500 has a whole range of accessories available, from crash bars to luggage, and at this price point you can afford to dress up the bike. In the words of one of my friends: “This is all the Adventure Bike most riders need. We just convince ourselves we need more.”

The NX500 will sell for around R130 000.

The Conclusion

2024-07-14T14:09:00.002+02:00

Fast Forward to 2024.

Every year over the December holidays we choose a holiday car. We’ve had bikes, bakkies, SUVs and the like, but in spite of having such fit for purpose vehicles, when we decided to visit Gamkaskloof we did it with a Suzuki Ignis! This started off our Suzuki Adventures and since we have taken a Ignis to the Namakwaland Flowers, the Malgas Pontoon and several other places. We called it the Suzuki Adventures.

This year we had the newly launched Suzuki Fronx. All we needed was an adventure. And all these years, in the back of my mind, I remembered that Kliphuisie next to the river. How can you discover a place like that and not go stay there?

The plan was set, the accommodation booked and paid. To end off our holiday we’d spend three days and two nights on the bank of the Sonderendrivier.

How interesting to drive back on the same roads again, seeing what changed and what stayed the same. The derelict buildings deteriorated quite a bit over time.

And there it was, just as beautiful as all those years ago. I can’t believe it took me this long to come back.

I can't believe it took me this long to come back!

Cosy inside:

Daily visit from the garden service to mow the lawn.

Romantic evenings with no signal. No distractions. True rest.

A stop on the way out next to the same old building where I photographed the GWM H5 all those years ago.

And so, our holiday came to an end. As did the last chapter of the Vaandrigsdrif adventure.

It was time for the lovable Fronx to go back. We really enjoyed our time with this car. There may be much more Suzuki adventures in our future yet.

But for now, it’s back to work. Our first car for the year – the Mercedes A35 AMG. Life is tough when you are a motor journalist!

Turkana Safari - Mossel Bay War Memorial

2024-07-01T17:22:00.004+02:00

The Turkana challenge was designed to get the bikes out of the garages and get the guys riding, and its certainly doing that! Our time was rather restricted on this particular Sunday, but a quick ride was possible and some of the George riders decided to head to Mossel Bay to tick off one of the Monuments in the challenge.

Meeting up in George before heading out.

(Sorry for the picture quality – photo taken by a bystander.)

The trip to Mossel Bay is a quick 55km hop and the Memorial is situated at Mossel bay point, a popular tourist spot.

Getting a pic with the bikes in the shot.

And a proper shot of the actual Memorial.

The idea for the Mossel Bay War Memorial was spearheaded by the Moth’s Shellhole Veteran Organisation to commemorate all those from Mossel Bay who laid down their lives defending their Country in the 1st and 2nd World War, the Korean War and all the soldiers who guarded our borders. The names of these soldiers have been set over a map of Africa, upon which a line has been drawn in crimson mosaic, marking the places of birth and death of those whom the memorial commemorates.

It was designed by W.J. Delbridge who was an old Mossel Bay boy who kindly volunteered his services. All funds for the monument were raised by the Mossel Bay community through Public Subscription and various functions.

The monument is built on Frog Rock, so called because of the shape of the rock. It was a favourite play area for the young boys of the Mossel Bay at the time. The unveiling took place on Sunday, 28th September 1924 by Major General Sir H.T. Lukin and was dedicated and consecrated by the Bishop of George. It has been described as "art-deco" in style. It is said to bear a resemblance to the Cenotaph in London. (Source)

A circular wall encloses the area once known as "Frog Rock". The wall is constructed of dressed sandstone and has a gated entrance on the seaward side of the hillock. Once you enter the contained circle, there are steps leading up to the memorial itself. There are inscriptions of the names of fallen soldiers who died in battle during the 1914 - 1918 war. More names were added after the conclusion of the second world war, then another batch, where local lads made the ultimate sacrifice during the Korean war, and more recently, in the 80's, defending our borders. (Source)

And, as a bonus... my friend Wessel's take on this ride!

TURKANA Safari

Slanghoek Valley and Bainskloof Pass

2024-06-29T12:53:00.005+02:00

So after having had the CRF1100 DCT Africa Twin test bike for two weeks, it was time to return it to Cape Town. But when you have access to a vehicle like this you don’t simply return it, you make a trip of it!

The return trip was just over 450km and I had a whole day to do it in, so I decided on a two-fold plan. This trip was going to be my 400km+ trip in the Turkana Challenge and I was also going to start with the passes bit of the challenge.

I wanted to get the bulk of the distance done and then explore a beautiful area a mere 90km from Cape Town. Slanghoek Valley (Slanghoek directly translates to “snake corner”) is not exactly remote, it is situated just off the N1, South Africa’s biggest main road. But because it’s a secondary road running through a valley not really linking anything, you probably wont be driving or riding there unless you specifically went there. The route is a gently meandering tar road along the valley between the impressive Slanghoek Mountains and the smaller Badsberg mountain.

The drive through the valley is a visual feast. A symphony of mountains, legends & vines.

The valley’s geographic position, fertile, varied soils and micro-climate is perfectly suited for growing several different grapes. The Western Cape, which is responsible for over 90% of South Africa’s wine, is home to a number of different wine regions, districts and small wards. The Slanghoek wine region is one of these wards, located in the Breede River Valley. Established in 1951, Slanghoek Cellar is the only winery in the ward and makes a wide selection of red, white, sweet, fortified and sparkling wines. As a result, the winery has received several prestigious awards, highlighting this powerful ward.

The hidden gem of the beautiful Slanghoek valley – and a river runs through it.

And when you have a pillion, you can have a pic of yourself crossing the river.

After exciting the valley, I still had to cross the mountain to get to Cape Town and in the Western Cape you are spoilt for choice when it comes to passes across the mountain. When I fetched this bike I rode Du Toitskloof Pass, so today on the way back I decided to tackle Bainskloof Pass as it’s a natural continuation of the Slanghoek Valley ride.

Built circa 1849 by the famous Andrew Geddes Bain, this pass was no easy feat to build, working with convicts and raw, rough materials and methods. But as usual Bain did a marvellous job of the pass which, having stood the test of time, is now a national monument.

It was a much loved route by the wagoneers who appreciated the gentle gradients that the oxwagons could manage. It remained the main road to the north for almost a hundred years, before the Du Toits Kloof Pass was constructed from 1940 till 1946.

The northern section of the pass roughly follows the course of the Witte River. There are many points of interest along the pass including the two toll points (Eerste & Tweede Tol), Dacre's Pulpit, Bell Rocks, Pilkington bridge, Borcherd's bridge, Gawie se Water, Bain's Ruins and Bain's Tunnel. The road was resurfaced recently and is in excellent condition, but it is a narrow route and there are not many safe places to stop, otherwise there would be a hundred photos in this report. It’s just that spectacular!

Dacres Pulpit is a precariously balanced overhanging rock. There is a height restriction, which keeps heavy trucks and busses off the pass. I do have a photo of myself riding under Dacre's Pulpit.

This photo was taken in 2016 during the world launch of the then new CRF1000 Africa Twin. I was riding an Adventure Sport at the time. Still one of my favourite pics.

I also stopped to photograph Borcherd's Bridge. The only way to see and photograph the stonework under the bridge is to access the campsite and take the short walk under the bridge, but unfortunately they were closed by the time we got there.

The corners along the pass are very tight and dangerous, so even though you are gawking at the scenery you need to keep your wits about you. There are 101 bends, curves and sharp corners with drop-offs that are near vertical and the only protection is a row of large spaced rocks.

Reaching the Western side of the pass you are treated to spectacular views.

And of course a picture of my bike and the pass info as record for the Turkana Challenge. The first 610m of my 10 000m passes challenge done.

And the 400+km trip challenge completed!

Slanghoek Valley and Bainskloof pass is a slight detour when heading to Cape Town, but if you have the time it is highly recommended!

TURKANA Safari

Turkana Challenge 2 - The Turkana Safari!

2024-06-27T17:18:00.007+02:00

Well, who can resist a challenge like that? I have entered the Turkana Safari and received the registration number 42. The challenge runs over the course of a year and my progress will be covered in this Ride Report.

How does it work?

Riders have one year to complete a list of 15 challenge items. You have to photograph your bike with your rider number at each of these challenges.

The 15 challenge items are:

1. Photograph your bike with an ostrich.

2. Photograph your bike on a trip with a sunrise and ‘n cup of coffee.

3. Photograph your bike on a camping / glamping trip.

4. Photograph your bike at a roadside braai.

5. Photograph your bike next to the ocean.

6. Photograph your bike at Gariep dam.

7. Ride passes with a cumulative height of 10 000m.

8. Do one 400km trip.

9. Do one 800km trip.

10. Do one 1200km trip.

11. Visit at least 4 provinces.

12. Visit and support a rural farm stall.

13. Visit a Turkana dealer and take a photo with a product.

14. Visit 5 National Monuments (List Here)

15. Visit two of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites (List Here)

There also are voluntary single challenges:

1. Photograph your bike with snow in the photograph (lucky draw).

2. Visit a neighbouring country (lucky draw).

3. Prize for the rider that travels the most kilometres during the challenge.

4. Prize for the best photograph as deemed by the organizers.

5. Prize for best adventure spirit.

This is going to be enjoyable! And a great motivator to ride more. My number is printed.

Here we go! Challenge pictures / ride links will be posted as we go along!

Photograph your bike with an ostrich.

Photograph your bike on a trip with a sunrise and ‘n cup of coffee.

Photograph your bike on a camping / glamping trip.

Photograph your bike at a roadside braai.

Photograph your bike next to the ocean.

Photograph your bike at Gariep dam.

Ride passes with a cumulative height of 10 000m.

400km trip done! Ride Report here.

Do one 800km trip.

Do one 1200km trip.

Visit at least 4 provinces.

Visit and support a rural farm stall.

Visit a Turkana dealer and take a photo with a product.

Visit 5 National Monuments.
1. Mossel Bay War Memorial

Visit two of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Du Toitskloof Pass

2024-06-14T09:19:00.000+02:00

Newer and faster is not always better. On an Adventure bike especially the long way round is almost always better. That is definitely the case here.

Not that I’m against development and the marvels of engineering but let's start at the beginning.

Between the towns of Paarl and Worcester in the Western Cape of South Africa lies the formidable Du Toitskloof Mountains. A significant barrier between the Cape Winelands and the South African interior. An idea for a tunnel through the Du Toitskloof Mountains was conceived in the 1930s but was put on hold due to the outbreak of World War II. The idea developed into a pass over the mountains, the Du Toitskloof pass, using the labour of Italian prisoners of war between 1942 and 1945.

Plans for a tunnel was never abandoned though and Geological surveys and design started in 1973, and excavation followed in 1984, tunneling from both ends using drilling and blasting. The two drilling heads met with an error of only 3 mm over its entire 3.9 km length. The tunnel was finally opened on 18 March 1988. The tunnel was named after the French Huguenot refugees that settled in the area in the late 1600s with one of the Huguenot refugees being Francois Du Toit, after whom Du Toitskloof was named.

This is what the tunnel looks like from the Northern entrance (Worcester side) traveling towards Paarl / Cape Town.

Photo by Zaian (sourced from Wikipedia)

Riding through a tunnel on a bike sounds like fun and I once rode a Harley Fatboy with Screaming Eagle pipes through the tunnel specifically to hear that glorious Harley sound. It was pure enjoyment... for about 30 seconds. Then the reality of so much traffic and exhaust fumes in a single lane tunnel hit. For the next almost 4 kilometers I was breathing dirty air while crawling along at 80km/h. On average 12,000 vehicles use the tunnel every day with up to 22,500 vehicles using it daily on holidays. You get the idea.

So after I picked up a new Honda CRF1100 Africa Twin in Cape Town and hit he road towards George, ‘n nice 450km ride, the tunnel was never an option. The pass over the mountain it would be and much more fun too!

The tunnel takes the bulk of the traffic away from the pass and on top of that, they are busy with maintenance work, so I encountered very little traffic on the pass on the day.

This is the view of the bridge on the South side of the tunnel as you start ascending the pass:

Vehicles are quite exposed on that bridge and it has happened several times that trucks, trailors and caravans have blown over in heavy wind on that bridge. The tunnel gets closed in such conditions and then all traffic gets diverted over the pass.

Another view of the Southern exit of the tunnel from a little higher up:

The tunnel exits below with the bridge now in the distance.

On a brilliant sunny day, you can see all the way to Paarl rock and even the Afrikaans Language Monument, but it was slightly overcast today.

A plaque dedicated to the Italian POWs who helped build the pass.

Ascending to the top of the pass I found myself in the clouds, the mountains and peaks around me totally obscured. The surrounding peaks often sport a covering of snow, and the Mountain Club of South Africa has huts in the area. Du Toits Peak is the highest mountain at 1,995 metres (6,545 ft). The vegetation is almost exclusively montane fynbos of the Cape floristic region I wrote about here.

Suffice to say that if you ever have the opportunity, take the pass. The scenery is totally worth it! (I might add some sunshine pics here in future).

The pass was named after Francois Du Toit, a 17th-century Huguenot refugee and pioneer who settled in the foothills. In 1930, engineer P.A. de Villiers (the Outeniqua Pass between the towns of Oudtshoorn and my hometown George was also receiving the same attention by the same engineer) explored the idea of a road over the pass and in 1938 it was investigated further by the National Roads Board with the route finalised in 1940. The project was started in the summer of 1941/42 and the 40 km long pass was opened in March 1949 by Prime Minister DF Malan.

The pass sports its own 200m tunnel!

The tunnel has a date 1948 and is simply called Du Toitskloof Tunnel, but getting more info on it seems almost impossible as all references lead to the new bigger tunnel.

The other side of the mountain revealed a beautiful sunny day, and the rest of the ride was absolutely glorious. The Africa Twin simply munches the miles in an effortless manner.

Since the CRF1100 launched in 2020 there have been few updates apart from new colours etc with the first biggish update coming in 2024 and mainly on the Adventure Sport model with a smaller front wheel etc. One of the differences between my previous 2021 bike and this 2023 model is the updated DCT programming. Drive mode was all but useless on my 2021 bike and I always rode it in Sport 1. On the 2023 model the Drive mode is actually usable if you are on a leisurely ride, while the sport modes seem to be sportier, but also more intuitive. I ended up riding this in Sport 2 the whole way and it was rather sprightly! Definitely a big improvement – it makes the horns on your head come out end entices you to be naughty.

I paid for that at the petrol pump in the end but man – what a ride!!!