Travel Africa On A Budget

Mabuasehube with an Off-Road Caravan

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Mon, 02 Jan 2012 07:23:00 +0000

As you all know from previous posts, Mabuasehube Game Reserve in Botswana, Africa, is no place for the feint hearted. Due to the fact that there is no hotels or self-catering accommodation available, tourists must be completely self-sufficient.

Yep, that translates to CAMPING!

Now, if you’ve missed the previous post about the Mabuasehube Reserve that forms part of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, here is a quick recap of the important facts:-

1. The reserve is unfenced. Yes, that means the campsites are unfenced too and visitors often find themselves held hostage by groups of lions.

2. The ablutions consist of pit toilets surrounded by a wooden snail-like structure open at the top and bottom. (If you don’t believe me about the lions, just check out the claw marks on the seats of those toilets.)

3. Mabuasehube forms part of the Kalahari Desert and the roads vary from sandy (and I do mean sandy) highways to deep rutted sandy tracks.

4. Your closest neighbours are often on the other side of the salt pan and more than a kilometre away as the crow flies.

Using an Off-Road Caravan when Visiting Mabuasehube

On our first visit to Mabuasehube we towed a Jurgens Explorer off-road caravan behind a Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2 DiD. It was late July after a dismal rainy season and the sand resembled the upper part of a beach where the waves never reach. You know, that part where the hot sand always get into your shoes no matter what you do.

It seemed like the best solution at the time as we could carry enough drinking and washing water as well as enough fuel for the four day stay at Lesholoago Pan. We also would be protected by something more than just mere canvas from the predators that roamed the semi-desert landscape. A fact my daughter made full use of by retiring inside when darkness fell and only emerging when morning came.

It also meant we could use our own shower as at that time, the campsite at Lesholoago didn’t have water. Over all, it was a great decision to go to Mabuasehube with a competent off-road caravan. But, as you can guess, it wasn’t all moonshine and roses.

Advantages of Towing an Off-Road Caravan to Mabuasehube

Please bear in mind these my own experiences of using a caravan. Other people may have different opinions and you’d do well to research them before making a decision.

1. As mentioned before, we had a solid structure to protect us from the elements and predators. During winter, the nights at Mabuasehube is bitterly cold and the temperature often drops to well below zero. Having the protection of the caravan, the cold was barely noticeable inside.

2. We had ample space to carry supplies such as water, fuel and wood inside the caravan.

3. All our amenities were in one place. The caravan comes equipped with a fridge/freezer, washing basin, two plate gas stove, cutlery and crockery, king sized bed and bathroom cubicle.

4. The awning provided shade during the day and protection during the evenings against the dew. It also provided cover for the stove and washing basin.

5. It doesn’t take a long time to stabilize and you can set up camp fairly quickly.

6. The pull-out kitchen made having a cup of coffee or a quick meal along the road, easy as you didn’t have to unpack everything in order to get to the kitchen.

Overall, I loved the idea of the caravan and the convenience it offered.

Disadvantages of Towing an Off-Road Caravan to Mabuasehube

You guessed it, there is a “But” in there somewhere. Towing an off-road caravan that by its nature is a large, heavy structure, does have a number of disadvantages. I suspect many of my complaints about the caravan are of my own doing, but it just didn’t justify the hassles I experienced. Here is why I say that:-

1. Off-road caravans are heavy beasts. Empty it weighs nearly a ton and fully loaded you creep to nearly one and a half tons. Moving that beast around in sandy soil is no picnic. If you consider that my husband and I usually travel alone and that despite my size I am not the strongest person in the world, this caused many grunts and complaints along the way. Even on level tarred surfaces the sheer weight of the caravan was daunting.

Couple this weight with sand dunes not compacted and rutted and you might get this result:

Going up a large loose dune, the vehicle in front of us braked suddenly. We had to stop and the digging above was the result. In the end we had to winch both the car and caravan to the top of the dune. We were so intent on getting the vehicle out of the sand, that we stopped checking for predators after a while. On our return we found these two just on the other side of the same dune.

2. As stated before the roads are heavily corrugated at times. During our first visit to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, the road between Askham and the entrance gate at Twee Rivieren, were not tarred. The corrugations were so bad, people were often asked to drag empty tires behind their vehicles in order to try and tame the corrugations. So our first taste of what corrugations could do to an off-road caravan came relatively early on our trip. By the time we reached Mabuasehube from Nossob, I was getting used to cleaning up inside before we could bed down for the night.

Although the Jurgens Explorer is a competent off-road caravan (and believe me if I say we tested it on a variety of terrains) the inside is still manufactured from a type of hardboard. This means that the thin wooden panels had to withstand an amount of vibration. They often didn’t. I cleaned up mayonnaise, sugar, coffee and various other stuff that simply shook out of the cabinets on the corrugations. Although these items were in closed containers, the locks on the cabinets failed and the contents were shaken out – this was before the time of clip – seal plastic containers. Cleaning up before you could set up camp, prolonged the getting settled process unbearably long after a hard day’s driving.

3. Dust. I hate dust. The clips of the slide windows on the Jurgens Explorer didn’t hold up on tough terrain and would shake the window open. Even the slightest opening allowed the dust to settle on the bedding and we had numerous nights where we had to shake out the bedding first before we could go to sleep.

4. Due to the amount of fuel and water we had to carry to Mabuasehube for consumption, we had little space for other camping equipment inside the caravan, The cabinets inside the caravan is small and being winter, we had to pack our clothes in suitcases which had to go on top of the bed. Camping chairs, table, and various other items also found a traveling space on the nicely made bed. We had to unload this first before we could get some sleep.

5. Accessing the fridge while on the road was a menace. The fridge/freezer is located under the three-quarter sized bed on the nose side of the caravan. You had to lift the bed to get to the fridge. When loaded with items, this proved to be irritatingly difficult. Even when the bed was made, you still had to lift it to access the fridge.

Now, you might say these are petty concerns, but travelling for weeks on end with the same problems, these petty concerns become major irritations. Would I use an off-road caravan to Mabuasehube again? Maybe. You have to decide what is more important to you. For me, I don’t think I’d do it again.

del.icio.us Tags: Mabuasehube,Botswana,Jurgens Off-Road caravan,camping,Mabuasehube camping,Lesholoago,Nossob,Twee Riviere,Matopi

Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve – Attractions and Activities

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Tue, 17 May 2011 11:47:00 +0000

As stated in the previous post about Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve this resort in the Northern Cape Province of South Africa, provides tourists on a budget holiday with many attractions and activities to occupy their time for days on end. Besides the relaxing atmosphere of the reserve and the wildlife and birds visiting the camp, even adrenaline junkies will have their fix of sorts.

What Makes Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve a Sought After Destination?

Well, just look at what is on offer in and around the resort. You can:-

- Go on a 36 km long 4x4 trail and traverse sand and mountain

– Take any of the numerous hiking trails in the reserve,
– bike your way through the meandering roads of the reserve,
– go game viewing and bird watching,
– visit the famous ‘Roaring Dunes’ of the Kalahari,
– go dune boarding down the red dunes of the Kalahari,

Let’s start with the ones I personally did – ok I’m lying – physical activity is not really my style, but the rest of my family has no such qualms.

Dune Boarding at Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve

If physical activity is your passion, you can take the kids and hire a dune board (currently R110-00 per board per day) from the reception office and scale one of the fairly high dunes in the reserve. From other dune boarders (remember I’m not one for exercise) I learned that it pays to wax the board thoroughly before embarking on the downward journey.

Even if you are not into the gliding down a dune at what feels like 100 km per hour with the wind in your hair, the climb to the top is still worthwhile. The view from atop the dune is spectacular and you have a panoramic vista over the roaring white dunes.

Visist the Roaring Dunes of Witsand Kalahari Reserve

From the viewpoint you have a wonderful view of the roaring sand of the Kalahari. This is probably the most well-known feature of the Witsand Kalahari Reserve and tourists are intrigued by the sound rising from the white dunes in warm and dry conditions.

The white of the roaring sand contrasts sharply with the rest of the red dunes and although the simple explanation for the difference in colour lies in the amount of oxidation around the sand, the white sand just lends a little more mystery to the dunes.

Explore the 4x4 Trail at Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve

This is one of my favourite activities at Witsand Reserve. Approximately 20 km away from the reserve, a 36 km – long 4x4 route takes drivers over some small to medium dunes and some mountainous terrain with breathtaking scenery. The route itself is not all that taxing on either driver or vehicle, but it sure is a lot of fun. Hurtling up a dune at almost full speed, or having a ‘windgat’ driver stop halfway up a rolling dune, tends to get the adrenaline pumping and lift everyone’s spirits.

On the way to the route you’ll encounter signs like the one below which will put a premature smile on your face. For those not fluent in Afrikaans, roughly translated it means: treat all gates like your pants’ zip – zip it and close it.

On the way to the route you can expect to see cori bustards, sociable weaver nests and if you keep your eyes open, various other semi-desert creatures.

With more than 170 bird species and various antelope and other desert creatures, combined with the exciting semi-desert vegetation, it should be clear by now, why your should take time to visit the Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve.

Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve – Location and Accommodation

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Tue, 03 May 2011 09:01:00 +0000

Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve in the Northern Cape provides tourists with a nice stopover between Gauteng and Namibia or the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. The word ‘stopover’ is, however, not completely appropriate. You could easily spend a couple of days, even a week, at the reserve and never be bored. This is a must-see destination in anyone’s budget holiday as the prices are reasonable (even cheap for camping).

We used the Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve as a stopover in 2005 and stayed for only two days. In 2007 we rectified our mistake and spent a couple of days more at the resort.

Where is Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve?

View Larger Map

From Gauteng you take the N14 towards Upington. Just after Olifantshoek, you will find a road sign indicating the turnoff to the reserve. From here it is a gravel road and depending on the season, the road can be a little hair-raising for tourists travelling with a small sedan or normal caravan. The turn-offs to the resort is well-marked and if you happen to miss the first turn-off from the N14, you will find another one a couple of kilometers further on. Their web site www.witsandkalahari.co.za provides all the details one could require.

Accommodation at Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve

You can choose between camping and staying in self-catering chalets. The campground is well maintained and although shade is at a premium on some sites, especially during the hot summer months, overall camping at the reserve is a pleasant experience.

Be careful during the summer months as the resort is in the Kalahari region of South Africa and the temperatures can be scorching. During winter months, make sure you have adequate blankets because although the days are moderate and pleasant, the nights can be downright freezing.

During 2007 we elected to make use of the camping facilities and being December, we had quite a bit of rain (with the inevitable leaking nylon tents) and very hot temperatures. So, check where you pitch the tent so that you don’t end up in a river of water during the night.

The self-catering accommodation is more than adequate and comfortable. Fully equipped kitchens, lounges and crisp and clean bedrooms are the order of the day.

Management of the reserve tried to cause as little disturbance to the vegetation as possible and natural bush surrounds all the chalets. You might even, like we did, get visits from Steenbuck and a variety of other animal life around the camp. They even provided a birdbath and drinking point for the animals at the chalets, so sitting on the porch and relaxing with a cold one, could be very rewarding in the early morning and early evening.

With friendly staff, adequate accommodation and plenty to do and see, this is an ideal destination for any tourist travelling through the Northern Cape Province of South Africa. In the next post I will tell you what to do and see in the area. Trust me, if you are a nature lover, you don’t want to miss out on all the activities this wonderful resort has to offer. Even the off-road enthusiast will have a blast.

Gariep Dam/Lake Gariep: Facts and Information

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Mon, 10 Jan 2011 13:27:00 +0000

The Gariep Dam, formerly known as the Hendrik Verwoerd Dam is the largest water reservoir in South Africa and is quickly becoming a sought after tourist destination. With several activities in the vicinity, a holiday at the Gariep Dam will never be boring.

Statistics of the Gariep Dam

1. According to the Department of Water Affairs, the Gariep Dam when full has the capacity to hold 5500 million cubic meters of water and the surface of the dam covers 370 square kilometers.

2. The hydro-powerplant through which water is released to the Vanderkloof Dam, consists of four generators each capable of producing 90 MW of electricity.

3. The dam wall is 88 meters high and 914 meters long and approximately 1.73 million cubic meters of concrete was used to construct the dam wall in a gorge at the entrance to the Ruigte Vallei.

The Town Gariepdam / Lake Gariep Village

The small town of Gariepdam, yes it is actually a town, consists mostly of prefabricated houses, which in the past housed the personnel of Water Affairs. Nowadays the houses are privately owned and occupied by people of various ages. Due to the serenity of the area, many pensioners reside in the town and it is not uncommon to see several elderly people strolling through the streets.

With a fuel station, chemist and small general dealer, the town offers the basic necessities required by the permanent residents. There is however no medical doctor in the town, but hopefully the construction of a registered old age home in the town, will change that. No doubt the clean air and surroundings, warm climate and friendly people will attract many investors in the future.

Where to Stay at Gariep Dam/Lake Gariep

Tourists can choose between luxury hotel accommodation, self catering accommodation and camping when visiting Lake Gariep. With various levels of luxury, the accommodation at the Gariep Dam will suit anyone’s particular needs.

A few of the establishments offering accommodation are:
1. de Stijl Hotel;
2. Forever Resorts Gariep;
3. The Glasgow Pont Hotel;
and numerous other B&B’s.

With activities like gliding, sailing, mountain climbing, river rafting, hiking, mountain biking, fishing and many more, it’s no wonder that the popularity of this little town in the Middle Karoo grows by leaps and bounds.

Photographs for Wildlife Enthusiasts

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Thu, 21 Oct 2010 10:11:00 +0000

In a previous post I mentioned the stunning photographs taken by Morkel Erasmus, a photographer in South Africa. His blog SAFFAscapes is gaining traction and rising in popularity in both the photography and wildlife spheres.

He recently got his own website where he showcases his photo’s. Although the web site loads a bit slow, it is certainly worth the wait. With wildlife-, landscape-, birds and small creatures photo’s, Morkel inspires the nature lover to get out there and see this for him/herself. The best part of the web site is that you can order most of the photo’s as stock images to use.

From his photo’s it is clear that Morkel is completely in love with the subjects he photographs and he is not shy to show it through his pictures. On his blog, he often tells his readers what settings he used and how the photo was taken, which is great for any amateur who wants to try and copy the photo (it might be quite impossible to get it as good as he does, but we can only try). So, take a look at the site and tell him what you think.

(Oh, and in case you were wondering – I don’t the man from a bar of soap – I just LOVE his photos.)

Pilanesberg Nature Reserve - 5 Things to Seek

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 13:31:00 +0000

The Pilanesberg Nature Reserve resides in a volcanic crater with a diameter of 27 kilometers and is surrounded by six mountains. It is the 3rd biggest reserve in South Africa and was established in 1979. Today, tourists flock to the reserve as it is known to be the one reserve where Africa's Big 5 animals can be found with the least amount of trouble.

But what should the visitor look out for, except the animals and beautiful scenery? Here is five things every visitor should do or see when visiting the Pilanesberg Park:

1.   Visit the Manyane Complex at Pilanesberg

The Manyane complex is the head quarters of the North West Parks & Tourism Board. There you will find a walk-in aviary with over 80 species of birds. Besides being informative, children love seeing the birds up close and observing their behavior. Allocate enough time to browse through the aviary as you will probably see birds you never get the opportunity to observe in the wild.

An à la carte restaurant, shop and bar provides delicious meals and a great selection of memorabilia to purchase. Children are entertained at the swimming pool, jungle gym and mini-golf while parents can take a relaxing stroll along the self-guided hiking trails in the Manyane area.

2.   Malatse Fenced Hide

Here the man-made dam and weir prevent erosion from damaging the ecology and shows off the management of the park's commitment towards conserving the environment and enticing wildlife back to this dry area in the park. Tourists spending some time at the hide might be rewarded with sable, eland and sometimes even rhino.

3.   Ratlhogo Fenced Hide

The Ratlhogo hide is situated in a wetter part of the Pilanesberg Park as indicated by the Karee trees surrounding the area. Game is abundant around the hide and tourists can expect to see kudu, bush buck, water buck and several bird species while spending some time in the hide.

4.   Mankwe Lake View Platform

This platform is about in the center of the Pilanesberg Park and offers tourists the opportunity to view an array of water birds. Crocodiles and Hippo reside inside the lake and tourists rising with the birds will have a spectacular view of the sunrise from the platform. The platform is fenced and visitors should attempt to spend some time viewing the domed hills surrounding the park from here.

5. Fish Eagle Picnic Site

The picnic site is fenced and was once an Iron Age Kraal site which was easily defendable and close to water. The picnic site is surrounded by Acacia trees, Bushwillows, Tamboti and Marula trees. With views of the interface of three habitats (rocky outcrop, hillside and water) this is an excellent spot to enjoy a light brunch or picnic while driving through the reserve.

When all is said and done, Pilanesberg Nature Reserve may have congested roads during weekends and peak season and may have some of the worst behaved elephants, but it remains a popular place for tourists to observe the true African bush.

Soccer World Cup Opening Ceremony

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 07:00:00 +0000

I have to admit, I was one of the sceptics hoping the 2010 World Cup Soccer opening ceremony goes well, but doubting that it would. I am so glad that my hopes were confirmed and my doubts squashed.

The ceremony was well planned, presented and executed. The true African flavor depicted the spirit of Africa well. I have to admit, I was a bit disappointed that the organizers chose to end the program with Shakira and not someone like Yvonne Chaka -Chaka who is the true spirit of Africa, but that is a personal choice.

From the amount of spectators present it was clear that everyone enjoyed the opening as much as us who did not have the priviledge of attending. What a spectacular event - well done Africa!

Camping Tips for Tsendze Camp in the Kruger National Park

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 21:56:00 +0000

Tsendze is the newest addition to the rest camps in the Kruger National Park. This camp is, however, not suited for the first time camper not used to camping in the wild.

The facilities at Tsendze Camp close to Mopani Rest Camp, is basic, although extremely well-maintained. These is no electricity, no shop, no fuel and no facilities except two unique ablution buildings and two camp kitchens. Gas geysers provide hot water to the showers (no baths) and solar panels drives the lights.

Camping at Tsendze is scary for the uninitiated. The campsites are private, with the surrounding bush kept intact as much as possible. This means that the local wildlife in the form of scorpions, spiders and snakes move unhindered through the camp. It is common to find scorpions roaming your campsite at night and stepping on one when you are not actively looking out for them, is a real possibility.

Keeping a few simple rules in mind, would help make your stay at this wonderful camp, worthwhile.

Avoid unnecessary walking around at night. Prepare the evening meal as soon as possible and relax under the bright stars while keeping your feet off the ground. Spiders and scorpions frequent the campsites at night, especially during summer, and can cause a nasty surprise to the unwary.
If you have to walk around at night, wear closed shoes and long pants to keep the insects at bay and avoid being bitten or stung.
Use a proper flashlight when visiting the bathrooms after dark. Nothing is worse than hearing a rustling in the bush next to you and not being able to see what moved in the bush.
Always take precautions against malaria as the Kruger National Park is malaria area.
Try to walk in groups if you move around the camp at night.
Keep the campsite area lighted as much as possible. If you can't see the spiders and scorpions it doesn't mean they are not there. Make sure you can detect any movement on the ground and in the surrounding bush.
Although the camp is fenced, this is no guarantee that leopard can't get into the camp. Be vigilant, especially at night and try to avoid walking alone if possible.

That said, this must be the most rewarding camp in respect of privacy and tranquility in the whole of the Kruger National Park. Visitors experiencing the "beat" of Tsendze once, will almost certainly return for more of the same. From just listening to the African bush around you to experiencing the luxury of an open air shower, Tsendze is truly an unique African experience not to be missed.

Tarred Road Between Askham and Twee Riviere

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 09:12:00 +0000

The first time I visited the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park the road between Askham and Twee Riviere was still notorious. Reports of vehicles breaking down, corrugations shaking your teeth loose and tires being towed behind vehicles were in the order of the day. To me...it meant excitement.

Bad road conditions led to few people venturing to that part of our beautiful country and those are the places I love. Nature tends to be unspoiled when fewer human footprints litter the area - a sad state of affairs, but unfortunately all too true. So, we packed the car, at that stage a Pajero and the off-road Explorer caravan (bad choice, but that is a story for another day) and set off in the middle of the night to reach Molopo Lodge at Askham where we would overnight before embarking on THE ROAD.

We reached the lodge just before sundown and thanked our lucky stars that we reserved a chalet for the night. THE ROAD had to be embarked upon well before first light if you wanted any chance of arriving at the gate at Twee Riviere by eight when it opened. So, by five 'o clock we were on our way. The road proved to be everything it was reported to be - and then some.

After ten kilometers (and more than half an hour later) I thought the Pajero would lose at least some of the wheel nuts. Anything that could shake loose, did and I shuddered at the thought of the mahem I would find inside the caravan. We drove on every possible side of the road and sometimes even next to the road, but regardless of how fast or slow or where you drove, the corrugations hammered away at the car and your body. (I suspect the idea for the Vibro Shape belt originated on this road) Dust whirled around the cars and we had to keep a substantial following distance from our companions to be able to see the road ahead.

Just before eight we arrived at the gate of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and watched the sun rise over the huts of the Botswana Twee Rivieren camp. The sixty-odd kilometers took nearly 3 hours to negotiate. What a wonderful start to a holiday in the bush!

During 2008 we entered the Kgalagadi again from Askham, and despite rumors of the road being tarred, I still held some hope that parts would be gravel. The freshly tarred surface continued to the gate of the park and we traversed the same stretch of road in less than an hour.

Now, I may be completely wrong about this and it is purely my own opinion, but I wonder if the tarring of the road didn't contribute to the influx of tourists to the park. During the time when access to the park was still limited to a few people who didn't mind "roughing" it a bit, we experienced no traffic congestion on the main roads, no motorists driving at excessive speeds and virtually all the people we met, were there solely for the purpose of experiencing nature and drink in the unique ambience of the Kalahari Desert.

A quiet appreciation of the animals and vegetation ruled the campsites at Twee Riviere - this changed to traffic jams, tour groups and noice-filled nights. While I am all for making our national parks more accessible to everyone and wouldn't dream to shun progress, I can't help but feel a little sad that the park is following in the footsteps of the Kruger National Park and is now well on the way to becoming a more commercial enterprise. With the road between Twee Riviere and Nossob being fixed (rumour has it that it will eventually also be tarred) it feels like the last vestiges of the quiet beauty will be lost for future generations. I hope the management of the park would be able to find a balance between commercial viability and preserving the park and its riches.

That said, I continue to visit the park despite these factors and during every visit the Kalahari reveals a little more about itself. You just can't help yourself - you need to go back again and again to experience the sometimes barren and dry soil of the Kalahari Desert.

The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park should be on every tourist itinerary.

Wildlife Photography - 2 Must See Web Sites

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Fri, 04 Dec 2009 11:03:00 +0000

Being an amateur photographer and only dreaming of taking beautiful photo's, I stand amazed at the quality of photo's these two photographers take. The photo's on the blog of Gerry van der Walt at Photo Africa took my breath away.

He recently had a guest, Morkel Erasmus, posting an article about HDR (High Dynamic Range) photo's with an explanation of the software and how to do it. This is amazing article with so much information, I bet you will read it at least twice and keep returning to make the information your own. (I know I will.)

The photo's alone will have you itching to pick up your camera and head for the wilderness of Africa. Please look at these sites and tell me what you think.

Tips for Camping in Africa - Why Campers Must Wear Shoes

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Fri, 04 Dec 2009 09:37:00 +0000

Whether you camp in places with (Kruger National Park) or without fences (Mabuasehube and most of Africa), the animals always have right of way. And not just the Big Five, all animals. That is why you should always wear proper shoes.

Africa is no place for sissies. You probably heard this statement before, but didn't quite know what is meant by it. Let me illustrate by way of a few short tales.

As you know, I am an avid camper and the wilder it gets, the happier I am...well mostly. This means that although I enjoy the Kruger Park, Pilanesberg and other game reserves as much as the next person, the places I feel most relaxed are where nothing but canvas stands between me and the animals of the veld. If you have to traverse a few 4x4 obstacles along the way, I really enjoy myself as this means less human traffic.

Camping Tip 1 for Africa: Wear Shoes While Camping in the Wild

Prevent Insect Bites While Camping in Africa

We've been visiting Balule camp in the Kruger National Park for several years now. Our holidays in the Kruger were mostly during the summer months. So besides taking prophylactics against the dreaded malaria mosquito, we also had to deal with a myriad of other six and eight legged creatures. Balule and we found this also at Shingwedzi camp, is notorious for its huge spiders running around at night. (I still can't figure out if they chase the shadows or the light.)

Although this afforded us hours of entertainment when middle aged ladies and large muscled men jump onto camping tables barely equipped to handle the loads of food on them, it stops being funny when these spiders start to target you. I'm sure they are perfectly harmless,but I have never stood still long enough to have a proper look and try and identify one. Why take the chance of stepping onto one and finding out they are as menacing as they look? Solution? Wear proper shoes.

Wearing Shoes Helps Prevent Snake Bites While Camping

Snakes are also rife in the Kruger Park as well as the national parks and parts of Africa with a warmer climate. One afternoon while enjoying lunch under the tree you see on the photo, hubby and children suddenly jumped a mile high and broke several speed records trying to get away from the tree. A snake was busy making its way silently down the trunk of the tree, only a few feet from where we sat.

Imagine this at night: It is dark, with only the stars shining down on you. Somewhere in the distance a lion roars and the veld goes quiet. You absolutely have to go to the bathroom. No time to put on shoes. And then you meet one of those unfriendly creatures that zaps you on the ankle. Besides being painful and possibly lethal, your holiday will surely be ruined.

Shoes Protect Against Scorpion Stings While Camping

Scorpions tend to hide in shady places during the day only to roam around at night, early morning and late afternoon. Although few scorpion bites are lethal, they pack a nasty punch and could cause a lot of discomfort if you are far from any medical facilities or medical help.

Shoes Protects Against Thorns While Camping in Africa

You may laugh at this, but have you seen the thorn of a Camel Thorn Tree? Imagine that long thorn sticking through the soft part of your foot. Besides delivering a painful sting, these thorns tend to break off inside your foot, causing infection and a slow healing process.

So don't be a baboon - wear shoes while camping and everyone will enjoy walking around in the bush so much more.

Kgalagadi in Botswana - 5 Camping Tips for Mabuasehube

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Thu, 26 Nov 2009 10:33:00 +0000

A visit to Mabuasehube Game Reserve really is worth -while if you are a nature lover who enjoys an amount of solitude and don't mind to be cut off from civilization. To re-cap the previously stated reasons for visiting Mabuasehube:

No telephone reception (not even a land line is available) so unless you have a sattelite phone, you have no way to communicate with the outside world. This translates to total peace and quiet for the duration of your stay. No news, whether good or bad, no worrying about the world economy (and probably your own) - why? Because you won't know about it.
The most beautiful landscapes and animals ready to pose for your camera - all of this from the front of your tent. Spotting an animal on a game drive usually means you have the sighting to yourself for an extended period of time.
No busses with tourists occupying the next campsite (which is mostly about 500 meters away) and robbing you of sleep and getting on your nerves.

All right, enough of this. Unfortunatly I enjoy the rugged outdoors and the more remote the better.

Camping Tips When Pitching a Tent at Mabuasehube Game Reserve

1.Take enough drinking water.

The water at the campsites of Mabuasehube is brackish and not suitable for human consumption. Even with nearly a whole bottle of Oros added, the salty taste is unpalatable.
Budget for at least three liters of water per person per day and extra water for at least one more day.

2. Have a good map or GPS with reliable charts.

I cannot stress this point enough. The kalahari desert is a vast place and once you leave the park through the entrance gate at Mabuasehube, you find yourself on roads with very little markings.
Here a GPS is a necessity. Getting lost on roads where a vehicle passes maybe once a day or once a week is no joke and can have serious consequences.

3. Use a suitable vehicle.

If you think your sedan (hired or otherwise) will be able to negotiate the roads at Mabuasehube - think again - A SEDAN WILL NOT DRIVE FURTHER THAN A FEW METERS INSIDE THE PARK.
The roads are sandy, rutted and at times the center of the two spoor track is high enough to hide the preverbial kalahari lion.
You need a vehicle with enough ground clearance to negotiate the deep sand tracks. Although it is possible to visit Mabuasehube in one vehicle with no other vehicle to assist, this should preferably not be attempted by people with no or little off-road driving skills.
I've seen people driving in the South African side of the Kgalagadi in a Volkswagen Golf and managing quite well, but please do not attempt this at Mabuasehube. I have family members who firmly believe their Mazda will drive anywhere - it won't!

4. Try to prepare food before dark.

This may sound silly, but watching the surrounding bush while you attempt to barbecue (braai) your dinner, often leads to burnt food and heightened tension.
When you camp in a large group this is not so important as when you are alone or only two people. If dinner is served while still dusk, you can relax around the fire and just enjoy the nightlife at your campsite.
We had jackal trying to steal our meat from the braai just because it was too dark to see him outside the small circle of light around the fire. (Don't know yet what I would have done if he turned out to be a lion!)

5. Be Vigilant When Using the Ablutions at Mabuasehube

Take a good look at the picture above. The toilet is of the non - machanical kind (a hole in the cemented ground with a plastic seat and cover.) On the toilet here at Mabuasehube Campsite no 2, deep scratches confirm that lions enjoy roaming the small enclosure.
The shower and toilet have no roof and no door. There is a reason you can partially see underneath the wooden slats - CHECK FOR OCCUPANTS before you enter - and not just the human kind.
Notice the bush is close the structures? What if you came out of the shower only to meet the king of the jungle right outside the opening? Solution: Always have someone else watching the surroundings before you exit the cubicle. Sounds silly? Wait until you meet the local residents face to face with just a towel around your butt and you will agree.

Keeping these 5 tips in mind, you will have a blast camping at Mabuasehube Game Reserve in the Botswana side of the Kgalagadi.

Where to Find Owls in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 19:41:00 +0000

With the December holidays approaching, many people will flock to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Bird watchers will be delighted to know that there are several spots in the park where different species of owls reside on a regular basis.

Twee Riviere and Vicinity

Exit the gate at Twee Riviere in the direction of Nossob. The Nossob River bed is on your right and dunes on your left. Small trees line the road on the left. Practically within a kilometer from the gate and well before you reach the Confluence lookout point, a small tree on the left plays host to at least two Spotted Eagle Owls.

Further along the road, just before the Melkvlei picnic area there is a fallen tree on the right hand side of the road. Despite the road works during December 2008, the Spotted Eagle Owls were not disturbed and rested during the heat of the day both on the thick branch of the fallen tree and in the foliage of the tree above.

Owls in the Nossob Area

At the gate of the Nossob camp where your exit towards Twee Riviere, an unassuming smallish tree on your right hand side usually yields a threesome of Southern White-faced Scops-Owl. These owls rest in the precious little shade of the tree during the day and at night you can hear their calls echo through the camp.

Mata Mata and Vicinity

Inside the Mata Mata camp, right in front of the small tuck shop, a huge tree provides shade to humans and animals alike. At least two Southern White -faced Scops-Owls will stare at you from the branches of the tree. Keep checking for them as they sometimes settle down on the lower branches of the tree and affords tourists wonderful photo opportunities.

After the turn-off to the Kalahari tented camp, the road turns to the left from Mata Mata side. On the left hand side of the road, tree partially overhangs the road. A pair of Spotted Eagle Owls resides inside the tree during the day and they are easy to spot. You will have a shady spot to stand in as well, which is a bargain during the hot summer months in the Kgalagadi.

These are only a few of the locations inside the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park where owls are seen at regular intervals. You will mostly hear the African Scops- Owl, but find it difficult to see one as they are small birds and very well camouflaged.

Also, look for Barn Owls inside Sociable Weaver nests as they utilize these huge nests to raise their own young.

Campsties Where You Can Flyfish for Trout

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 13:42:00 +0000

Do a search on the internet and you will find few places that cater for fly fishermen (especially trout anglers) who wish to camp. Lodges are in abundance and you fill find thousands of hits in the Cape Province and Mpumalanga with places offering self- catering to fully catered accommodation. So why are the campers left out in the cold?
One reason might be that fly fishing for trout in South Africa is predominantly a winter sport and that most establishments probably feel campsite wouldn't generate enough income to make it economically viable. I don't agree and here is why:

The world-wide recession is pinching at everyone's purses. Self-catering accommodation at trout lodges tend to be expensive for the average man in the street.

More tourists are visiting Africa on a shoestring budget and plan their whole holiday around campsites that offers them a unique experience of Africa.

Lodge owners will dramatically increase their bookings when implementing one or two exclusive campsites close to the trout dams with adequate facilities - if the lodge has a restaurant even better - the turnover will definitely improve.

So all the lodge owners out there - make some campsites or tell me why you are not doing it.

Carnivorous Animals at Mabuasehube/Kgalagadi

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 16:03:00 +0000

As stated in the previous post, carnivores in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and Mabuasehube Reserve are not just limited to lion, leopard, cheetah and hyena. Smaller carnivores include the caracal, wildcat, bat eared fox, aardwolf, banded mongoose, black-footed cat, small-spotted cat, small-spotted genet, honey badger, black backed jackal, cape fox, striped polecat, suricate, slender mongoose, African wildcat and yellow mongoose. All of the above belong to the genus of Carnivora.

An interesting fact about the Black backed Jackal is that it can smell carrion, which it is not above eating, from a distance of 11 kilometers down wind. These jackals will also accost brown hyenas in an attempt to rob them of their prey, but not the cheetah, as they seem to fear the speed of the cheetah.

The Aardwolf eats up to 300 000 termites per night. As termites make out their whole diet they need to stay in areas where there are at least 3000 termite mounts to survive. In die winter, when termites are active during the day, the Aardwolf adapts its habits from nocturnal to diurnal.

One way to find a honey badger in the Kgalagadi is to look for two or more Southern Pale Chanting Goshawks (Bleeksingvalke) resting in the lower branches of the trees as you will often find the honey badger in the vicinity.

What Animals Will You Find in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park?

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 12:03:00 +0000

People visit the Kgalagadi to see animals in their natural habitat and enjoy the solitude and beauty of the landscape.

Before I start to give you some insight into the variety of animals one would see while visiting the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and Mabuasehube Game Reserve, I have to warn all readers... I am an avid birder who would sit and stare at an owl for hours on end rather than wait for a lazy lion to lift his or her butt just so that I can get a photograph. So if I concentrate more on birds, please forgive me as it is not intentional.

Being semi desert country and an arid region, some of the animals found here - and we can take a bet on this - will amaze you. During the summer months the temperature can soar to above 40⁰ Celsius while winter nights can have you shivering in your tent at well below zero. The animals that inhabit this are must therefore be well adjusted to survive in minimal rainfall and extreme temperatures.

Carnivorous Mammals found in the Kgalagadi (Kalahari Desert)

Most people visit the park hoping to see at least some of the Big Five. Most of the time, this is no problem. Due to the heat during the summer months, the best time to view lions, leopard (yes they are there) and cheetah are early morning and late afternoon. Once you spot a lion in the morning, the chances are good that you will find the lion in the same vicinity later during the day as well. They are lazy critters and only move to drink (so check out the water points and bore holes carefully) or to crawl into another shady spot. After dark chances are that you will see them quenching their thirst at the water holes of Mata Mata or Nossob before they embark on the hunt.

If you stay at Twee Riviere or Rooiputs, look for the leopard early in the day and late afternoon around the Confluence water point (photo on the right). From Twee Riviere side, a fallen tree on the right side of the road, just before you reach the waterhole is a popular hideout for the leopard. If you are lucky, you might find a female with her cubs, like we did last December. Nothing prepares you for the feeling of "aaww shame" when you see the small leopard cub cheekily peeking out from the grass.

We found cheetahs all along the Nossob River as well as at Mata Mata ( where we viewed them from the campsite). Hyenas frequent the Nossob River and you should keep an eye out for them from Twee Riviere right up to Unie End in the north. We were lucky enough to see a hyena cooling off in one of the drinking troughs, which made me extremely happy that I had my own drinking water.

Besides the obvious carnivores, smaller carnivorous mammals also inhabit the park. In the next post I will reveal more about them. If anyone can think of some , please comment and we'll see whose list is closest to mine.

Until next time...

Why Travel to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and Mabuasehube

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Thu, 03 Sep 2009 16:47:00 +0000

Many of you will ask: "What on earth do you want to visit a place so inhospitable as the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and even worse, Mabuasehube?" The answer is simple and at the same time, complex.

The simple version:

You will seldom find a better place for your soul to truly rest from the everyday rat race. There are no cell phone reception and unless you can afford a satellite phone, you will be cut off from 'civilization' for the duration of your stay. Nobody can contact you with day-to-day problems, you have limited radio reception so the problems of the world remain the world's problems until you return from holiday.

The pitting of your wits against nature to stay on top of the food chain provides enough distraction to occupy your mind - there is nothing like the roar of a lion at night reminding you that there is a mere piece of canvas between yourself and the deadly jaws of the king of the jungle. (Adrenaline will provide the rest of the distraction.)

Sitting around a campfire with a nice hot cup of coffee (in winter) or a cold beer ( in summer) and craning your neck to the heavens will remind you that you are but a small creature in the whole of the universe. This indeed provides perspective on any insurmountable problem you might think you have. (Freezing your backside off during winter will also assist in this process.)

The complex answer is ....

too complex to explain here as few men would understand and most woman would think I am crazy to enjoy living simple, without modern comforts, cooking on an open fire, walking barefoot in the sand (and praying the scorpions went to bed already), showering in cold water in a shower without a door or roof and crouching in the same Kalahari sand to watch the smallest of bugs carry their meager findings into the tiny hole in the ground.

To get some idea what I am talking about, see the slide show next to the post.

Well, next time I will report again on the progress of planning the trip in December.

Trip to Kgalagadi, Mabuasehube and Botswana

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 08:57:00 +0000

Over the weekend hubby informed me he wants to go to the Kgalagadi again in December. Do I hear you scream 'December!'? Yes, you heard right. He wants to tour the Kalahari Desert in the hottest months when temperatures easily reach 40 - 50 degrees Celsius. Well, I thought it would be all right. We've done this before - no sweat. I actually took to the idea of traversing the wilderness again.

We grabbed the map of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and planned a route to the wildest places in the park where we haven't been before. Places like Sizatswe, Swartpan, Gnus Gnus, Polentswa and naturally, the Mabuasehube side of the park. No visit to the Kgalagadi is complete (for us anyway) without a visit to the A-frames and clay pans of Mabuasehube Game Reserve.

Without really knowing what facilities are available at Sizatswe, Swartpan and Gnus Gnus, I phoned the Botswana Department of Wildlife and National Parks reservations office on 00267 318 0774 and proceeded to make a booking. The accommodation at Polentswa and Nossob was limited so I extended our stay in the far north of the park - a total of 8 nights. Fine, if it is just me and hubby there is no worries regardless of the facilities offered. With the provisional booking made, I enquired about the facilities in the northern part (Botswana side) of the Kgalagadi and was told...there is nothing. Not even a toilet, no water and no ablutions. You have to carry everything with you. This didn't bother me as we have plenty of space in the Cruiser and off - road trailer.

Then hubby dropped the bomb... he is taking his parents with. Suddenly I have to plan for 6 people, arrange drinking and wash water for 8 days and the Cruiser looked smaller every time I tried to fit everything in. I am still trying so do come back next week to check the progress.

The full trip is 18 nights and is as follows:

Day 1-3 at Rooiputs (Botswana side about 23 kilometers from Twee Riviere. Apparently, the bore hole hasn't been fixed so there is no water available, but at least there is a toilet and shower shelter.

Day 4-5 at Mata Mata (South African side - full ablutions and fences)

Day 6 - Nossob (South Africa side - full ablutions and fences)

Day 7 - Polentswa (Botswana - no fences, apparently no water, but toilet and shower shelter and A-frame)

Day 8-9 Sizatswe (Botswana - no fences, no water, no ablutions)

Day 10-11 Swartpan (Botswana - no fences, no water, no ablutions)

Day 12-13 Sizatswe (Botswana - no fences, no water, no ablutions)

Day 14 - Polentswa

Day 15 - Matopi (Botswana - no fences, no water, no ablutions)

Day 16-18 Mabuasehube ( Botswana - no fences, A-frame, ablutions and hopefully water)

Now the problem facing us is to carry enough water for drinking and washing for 6 people for 8 days. According to the information I could find, the gate at KAA seldom has water to provide so we can't count on getting some water there.

Next week I'll let you know how the planning comes along. For more information about the Kgalagadi Camps check out these articles:

Mabuasehube:

Camping at Mabuasehube

Campsite names of Mabuasehube

Kgalagadi (SA side:)

Nossob

Twee Riviere

Mata Mata

Until next week.

Where is the Best Place to See Lions Mate?

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Tue, 28 Jul 2009 16:06:00 +0000

Tourists often visit Africa with the ultimate purpose to see African Lions in the wild. Observing lions hunting or mating must be the most rewarding experience for any wildlife enthusiast - although the smaller creatures tend to offer even more pleasure to the astute observer. The question every tourist inevitably asks: "Where is the best place to see lions hunt/mate?"
Africa is riddled with nature reserves, both private and government owned, where African lions may be seen in their natural habitat. One of the reserves renowned for its sightings of the Big Five is the Mala Mala Game Reserve, which borders the Greater Kruger National Park. Several wildlife documentaries were filmed there, including some for National Geographic. The price range for this exclusive game reserve might however be out of most casual tourist's league.

One of the places I had the most success in observing lions mate, is the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Close to Nossob Rest Camp, on the Botswana side and on the access road to Mabuasehube Game Reserve, tourists often find lions either hunting, resting or mating. Even the main road between Nossob and Twee Rivieren regularly deliver lions resting in the shade of the trees along the road. Due to the sparse vegetation in the semi - desert Kalahari landscape, spotting these magnificent creatures are easy.

The Kruger National Park is another nature reserve where lions are seen on a daily basis. In the middle of the Kruger National Park, the small camp of Balule regularly shakes with the roar of lions at night.

SAN Parks administer both the Kgalagadi and Kruger National Parks and their fees are reasonable by anyone's standards. Whether camping or staying in the other accommodation these parks offer, make sure you keep an eye - and an ear - out for the roar of the African Lions.

Shipwrecks Around Swakopmund, Namibia

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 12:34:00 +0000

Skeletons of ships (ie shipwrecks) litter the Namibian coastline. This one is close to Swakopmund between Swakopmund and Hentiesbaai. Well worth a visit - even if it is just to walk on the beach and explore these old relics. See also the article on Swakopmund.

Cheap Namibia Travel

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 14:06:00 +0000

It is no secret that going on holiday costs money. Well, Africa still is one of the places where tourists may experience deserts, ocean, rolling hills and much more without breaking open the piggy bank. Let's take a look at what you can do in Namibia without spending a lot of money:

Visit the wild horses close to Aus

Driving from Keetmanshoop to Lüderitz you pass the small town of Aus. Passing is the operative word as few people take the time to explore the small town - yes, you guessed it - for free - and it is a shame. At the time I drove through the streets, mostly unpaved, a Springbok hung from the water tower at the local feed shop. Some of the buildings are nearly a century old and the town has an old world feel, which cannot be described in words - you have to feel it. Well, a few kilometers past Aus, you will find the signpost indicating the wild horses of the Namib Desert. If you are lucky, the horses would be present at the shelter. It truly is amazing to see how these animals adapted to life in the desert, but man already made inroads into their independence by touching them and causing them to lose their fear for humans. It would be a sad day, when these horses no longer roam the plains of Namibia freely. Viewing these horses are free and costs the tourist only time and fuel to get there. You might, however need a bit of luck spotting these animals as they do not drink water regularly.

Explore the Coastal Bays around Lüderitz, Namibia

If you continue on the road towards Lüderitz, you'll find the turnoff to Diaz Cross at the entrance to the town. Turn left here and explore the various coastal bays around the Lüderitz peninsula. You'll find oyster farmers, abandoned whale operations, a light house and naturally, Diaz Cross with its monument, hair raising wooden walkbridge and if you are lucky, seals playing in the water when you look down from Diaz Point. Best of all - it's free. Yes, it costs nothing but time and fuel to get there and experience the bays, rocky shores, sandy beaches and small treasures the bays has to offer.

This is only two of the things to do in Namibia that costs nothing - I will share more in the next couple of posts.

Budget Holidays To Africa - Kgalagadi

noreply@blogger.com (Yolande Pienaar) — Wed, 20 May 2009 14:59:00 +0000

A holiday to Africa, more specifically Southern Africa, shouldn't cost you your life savings. Nature lovers seeking the wide open spaces and tranquility of the African bush, can have the holiday of their lives making use of the thousands of campsites available on the continent.

While it is true that some camp sites in Southern Africa has deteriorated, there are still plenty places which offer value for money. Lets take the nature reserves for a start:

The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is a must for people seeking true beauty of the Kalahari desert and plenty of wildlife sightings. Articles about camping in the main camps on the South African side may be found at Suite 101.

Links:

Twee Rivieren Camp in Kgalagadi
Mata Mata Camp in Kgalagadi
Nossob Camp in Kgalagadi

Although the conservation fees charged by the SA National Parks may be high, it remains cheaper to camp at these rest camps than to stay in a chalet. If you are planning numerous visits to various South African National Parks, obtaining an international Wild Card from the SA Parks offices, will soften the blow and save you quite a lot of money - especially when traveling as a family.