There are an abundance of charming boutique hotels in old town Cartagena at reasonable prices when you compare them to hip seaside towns like Miami or LA. After much research we chose to stay at the El Marques Hotel Boutique near the west side of the old town. It turned out to be an excellent decision. All of old town is gorgeous and charming, but our little westside corner seemed to be a bit quieter than the eastern side where you see more of the cheap souvenirs shops and where more of the cruise ship voyagers dump into the narrow streets.

The El Marques is built into a large, old townhouse. I’m sure there was plenty of work done, but it feels straight out of history. There is a fountain the courtyard, plants hang from every corner and there’s a subtle breeze that flows through and keeps it from ever feeling stifling. The staff went above and beyond when we had some transfer issues with the next hotel, and the free daily breakfast was outstanding. Our room was made up each day to perfection and we every corner of the hotel felt seemed to be staged for Architectural Digest. The only drawback is that the pool is on the ground level so if you are looking for direct sun you may want to go with one of the hotels that has a pool on the roof.

No, it isn’t for the weekend shoppers jetting off to Paris or Berlin, but if you’re looking for high quality craftsmanship in bright colors for summer weather or creative bohemian home wares, Cartagena has some deals! We couldn’t leave Cartagena without stopping into a few stores, so here is a quick hit list of some of the places we enjoyed…

• Estribos. This store is actually a shared space for Maygel Coronel luxury swimwear, Minerva footwear and Pajarolimon jewelry. I personally loved the jewelry and if you’re looking for some yacht-worthy swimwear - like very structured and expensive looking - this place has some creative stock!

• St. Dom. This high end clothing store features Colombian designers with some high quality basics and adventurous pieces. The front of the store was… pricey to say the least though I would have to guess these clothes would have been triple the price in New York. The mid and back sections offered some more affordable options (under $150) that were far superior in quality to what you would find in the US. The shows were incredibly high quality, dance-ready heels that were in the $80 range.

• Silvia Tcherassi. Very high end designer wear made by a Colombian women who has worked for some powerhouse apparel houses and who has had runway shows in Paris. This stuff is stunning and while the prices are high, they would undoubtedly be much higher in New York, London or Paris.

• MPM. This small store offers high end linen, silk and cotton wear that is just gorgeous. Super high quality at very reasonable prices. I walked away with a few pieces that felt like a steal!

• Chiqui House Boutique. This store represents one of my very favorite kinds of stores. The kind you wander through, not sure what you’re going to stumble upon. An eclectic mess of home wares, textiles, clothing, furniture. They bring items in from all over Colombia and the world and have turned this larger storefront into a bohemian mash-up. We spent some time going through the store and at some point I will be back for one of their amazing and affordable rugs.

To be honest, this is a bit of a funky itinerary. Here’s why. Each July I join a few friends on a birthday trip and then tack on an extra week of travel. This year's destination was Koh Samui and unfortunately most of Southeast Asia is in the midst of the monsoon season this time of year. So, choosing that extra week somewhere that was a reasonably close distance and time zone was a challenge. Since the Philippines have been on my other travel buddy and my list for some time, and lots of Filipino friends have been raving about it for ages, we said screw the weather and went for it.

We set out on seven days to avoid rain and tourist traps, and find some adventure and relaxation. I think we succeeded!

Day 1: Manila

After a super long trip from my new home in New York, I landed in Manila and headed over to the I'M Hotel in the Poblacion neighborhood of Merkati in Manila. Manila is vast and if there's one message that came through in research it was that the traffic is abysmal and to park it in one neighborhood if you can. I took their advice and chose Poblacion for it's location in safe Merkati and proximity to some of the city's newest restaurant and bar scene.

To fill the time while I waited for my San Franciso-based friend to join me, I signed up for a food walking tour of Poblacion with Miguel on AirBNB experiences. Miguel was an excellent tour! He offered up so much interesting information on the history of the Philippines and Manila, and all the changes taking place right now, from neighborhoods to politics to a sincere focused on the cultural identity of the country. I'm a huge fan of AirBNB experiences if I don't already know someone in the city since this perspective is invaluable to understanding a place. I won't give away his tour stops, but it was this amazing mix of food stalls to new restaurants, signifying the change of old to new in the neighborhood.

Poblacion is filled with amazing restaurants and fun bars - later in my itinerary I head back to Manila and have a bit more on a few spots to check out.

Day 2: Negros, Dumaguete

We rose early and caught our 8:30am flight from Manila to Dumaguete. I know early flights aren't ideal, but I can't emphasize enough how much better your travel in Manila will be if you depart early and arrive early or late. Traffic really is that bad and it saves you hours by arranging your travel this way.

We'd booked at the Atmosphere hotel just south of the city of Dumaguete and as our hotel included free transfers (many do!) a driver was waiting for us at the airport. In a half hour we were at the hotel and ready to go by 1. We immediately organized our trips for the days we were there which included going straight into a refresher dive right off the hotel beach. I love walking into a dive and the hotel has a beautiful dive spot steps from the hotel. After our dive we spent the afternoon at the bar enjoying snacks, drinks and company.

Day 3: Whale Sharks & Negros Sights

The next morning we took off bright and early (5am 😬) to swim with the famous whale sharks off neighboring island, Cebu. Though on another island, the whale sharks are actually closer to Negros and Dumaguete than they are to Cebu's largest city and tourist hub, Cebu City. Our travel included about 30 minutes to the ferry, the 30 minute ferry ride, and then another 30 minutes or so to the dive site. By 7 we were on the beach in our snorkel gear and flippers, ready to go.

The hotel gave us the play-by-play before we got there so we knew what to expect. Without that explanation it would have seemed a bit chaotic. There are loads of people waiting their turn for their group number to be called. When called, you pile into a narrow row boat and the guides row you out to attach to a rope that forms a half circle around the whale shark feeding areas. Each group gets 30 minutes to swim and observe, then back to the beach. I never felt rushed or crowded, and despite the bustle vibe, it was all very comfortable and bizarrely orderly.

To make sure the tourists get their turn once out on the boats, fishing boats go up and down the rope line feeding the whale sharks that follow in tow. While we were there, two to three sharks were passing the line at a time. They are big and the first time I saw one I definitely swam back a few feet! But you quickly see that they are quite gentle and hyper-focused on feeding. We might as well have been invisible. They swam all around us including in front and underneath. They are beautiful and it was a unique experience I'll never forget. Those 30 minutes went by far too fast!

A bit on the efficacy of the operation. In my research I found loads of opinions on whether this is an eco-friendly activity. Some groups say feeding any animals goes against their natural migration and feeding patterns. Others argue that the spike in tourism has given local Filipinos more incentive to care for and be conscientious of the animals and their habitat, while providing much needed jobs. Our eco-friendly resort (literally no plastic on site among many other conservation and local economic support efforts) shared that the whale shark population is up since they started doing this 20 years ago, the habitat has improved from no longer allowing dynamite fishing, and studies have shown that their migration and feeding habits are still in tact. They only allow feeding from 7am to noon, which requires the sharks to continue to feed in other areas. I can't say for certain that this is or isn't an ethical choice but do encourage anyone considering it to do some research and come to your own conclusion.

Once we finished our swim, we showered, changed and jumped in the car to head back to Negros. On Negros we spent some time in one of the island's many hot springs (claimed to have restorative powers), saw a beautiful waterfall, and had lunch in the small interior town of Valencia. It was charming! My hope was to do some hiking around the volcano but with the recent rains most of the trails were closed for mud and mud slide risk. In the dry season I imagine the hiking and views are pretty epic!

Despite an incredibly full day, we were back to the hotel by two. The Atmosphere spa is well known and has received loads of awards so we went ahead and booked massages (one of the best I've had, really!) before relaxing at the pool bar the remainder of the day. We tried a few treatments while at the hotel and all were superb. The massage, face and hair facials all exceeded expectations. The latter two were particularly helpful given all the time in the sea on this water-based part of our trip!

Day 4: Apo Island

Apo Island is a world class dive site that draws people from around the globe and it just so happens to be practically straight out from the Atmosphere Resort. So, we opted for two dives to check it out. Our guide was fantastic and we saw an abundance of fish, coral and marine life. There certainly wasn't a lack of places to look! Around one corner of the island is a large shelf that makes for a particularly enjoyable dive from 10 to about 20 meters. We were in the rainy season and, as a result, the water was a bit choppy and at some points visibility could have been more clear and currents less challenging. Given the island's shape, one side was protected and still provided for a clear and calm dive site.

With a start time of 8am, transit to the island of around 30-45 minutes, and two dives, we were back at the resort a little after 1 for lunch and some relaxation.

Day 5: Bohol

While sad to leave behind such a beautiful island and fantastic resort, we wanted to make sure we saw a bit more of the Philippines in this quick trip. We chose our next stop as Bohol both because of the very easy transit between islands (a 2-hour direct ferry ride in reasonable accommodations) and the renowned topography of Bohol's chocolate hills, rivers and farmlands.

We opted for the 9:40am ferry and were instructed to leave our hotel by 8am. The ride there was brief, but the hotel suggested we arrive early in the case there were any schedule changes or delays due to weather. The ferry was a bit behind on departure but arrived in sunny and beautiful Bohol right on time.

We chose to stay at the Eskaya Beach Resort & Spa and it was certainly a beautiful setting. We had our own hut which even included our own mini pool, a large room, view of the beach and an outdoor shower area that is larger than my New York apartment’s living room. It was a bit quiet and the other guests were there as couples. I wouldn’t recommend it as a lively or fun crowd, but as a place to relax, find some quiet and enjoy the pools, it was perfect.

Day 6: Chocolate Mountains and Bohol Countryside

Bohol is not a large island, but the main attractions are very spread out so we opted for a full day tour. A car picked us up from our hotel and we were off. First, we stopped at the man-made forest, a somewhat bizarre tourist attraction. Apparently there was erosion on the hills surrounding the main road across the island. To stop the hills from sliding, the people of Bohol imported mahogany trees and a tourist stop was born.

Next we continued to the Bohol Tarsier Conservation area. For a small fee you can walk through a habitat where the nocturnal Tarsiers are napping on branches during the day. They are bizarre creatures (they say Yoda from Star Wars was inspired by the tarsier) and it was amazing to see them from a short distance. If you watch the video below you can see the tarsier’s slow finger movement which I found mesmerizing!

Our drive continued to the famous chocolate hills. The hills are a topographical anomaly as they spring up in symmetry across the landscape. The term “chocolate” comes from the dry grasses on the hills that turn brown during part of the year. They are worth seeing and are quite photogenic! We also stopped to do some off roading at the coaxing of our driver. If four-wheeling is your thing you might like it - I found the entire thing hot, dirty and overwhelmingly touristy (there were four wheeler traffic jams on the “course”) so don’t personally recommend it.

Last, we stopped for a late lunch at Lantaw, a locals favorite open-air restaurant with views of the ocean below. The food was fantastic, definitely a worthwhile lunch spot for something casual and authentic.

Day 7: Poblacion Dinner & Bar Crawl

For our last evening in the Philippines we returned back to Manila to ensure we could catch our early flight the next morning. We once again stayed in Poblacion and had an amazing night running around the neighborhood to check out different restaurants, bars and nightlife. Agimat Foraging Bar and Kitchen provided an amazing dinner with entertaining cocktails (three foot flames not withstanding - see video below). We also tried a few cocktail bars along Alfonso, my favorite being The Apartment, a tall building with several different rooms. One room had a great live band, lively atmosphere and very friendly people.

Day 8: Depart

There’s nothing particularly special about departing for the airport but as a word of caution, give yourself extra time! Unless you’re traveling very early on a weekend (our car came at 5am) the traffic in this city can be extreme. A few hours to go a short distance is not unheard of so leave early!

Stop #1 – Alta Colina

About three hours south of San Francisco, if traffic is on your side, was our first stop at Alta Colina Vineyards and Winery. The whites and reds were equally exciting and offered at very reasonable prices for California given their depth and quality. I particularly liked the Estate Marsanne (Claudia Cuvee) and the GSM (Gernache, Syrah and Mourvedre blend). The people were laid back, jovial and poured a few extras when they saw we were into the wine and likely to walk away with a few. Had I somewhere to store them I easily would have walked away with a case. It’s also a beautiful tasting room with magical lighting on the hills outside the windows.

Stop #2 – Villacana Winery + RE:FIND Distillery

On the recommendation of Alta Colina, we stopped in at the combined Villacana Winery and RE:FIND Distillery. The only thing separating the two is a sliding door from the wine tasting room to the distillery room. On the Villacana side we found the wines simple and straightforward. It seems like there was something for everyone’s palate and some nicely priced no-particular-occasion wines. On the distillery side there was far more variety than I expected and some interesting flavors. The liquor is made from the grape run off from the wine making process so the liquors, with a few exceptions, are all gluten free. Vodka, gin, bourbon and liqueurs were on the menu and I found all to be delightfully smooth. I particularly liked the gin and walked away with a bottle of the kumquat liqueur which I plan to have with soda water as a lighter cocktail in the summer.

Stop #3 – Grey Wolf Cellars

As we turned on the road that would ultimately lead out towards the coast we stopped in at Grey Wolf Cellars, my friend’s favorite and part of a larger complex with a few wineries, a restaurant and distillery. Grey Wolf Cellars has, once again, a nice set of whites and reds that are all reasonably priced and very solid buys. I loved the Grenache and Cabernet. Apparently this place has some great wine club events and if you go in the summer the patios is beautiful with amazing views. Definitely worth a stop!

Stop #4 – Lunch

Just out the back side door there is a cozy lunch counter where you can order sandwiches, salads and more and then dine on the patio. They aren’t open every day so I recommend you call Grey Wolf in advance to see if the restaurant is open and serving. Typically they are open during the later spring through early fall on the weekends, but I would call just in case.

Stop #5 – Krobar Craft Distillery

Just behind Grey Wolf Cellars, maybe a 2 minute walk at most, is Krobar Craft Distillery. Though famous for their pink gin (think peppercorn more than pink lemonade), they carry a variety of other liquors from vodka to gin to bourbon. The tasting room is comfortable and in summer months you can go out on the patio to enjoy the tastings. Where I found RE:FIND Distillery’s options smooth and balanced, Krobar is more in-your-face liquor. They are strong alcohols, strong flavors and pack a punch. The Sailor’s Gin in particular gave me that little scare of, if you had a few of these who knows what would happen… enjoy, but proceed with caution and a designated driver!

Stop #6 – Town of Cambria and Mozzi’s Saloon

Only about 30 minutes from Krobar and Grey Ghost, and about halfway to the hotel, is the small town of Cambria. The town is a great spot to stop for a walk, a light bite or, in our case, a stiff drink. Plenty of people stay overnight and I’m certain it would be a wonderful place to enjoy a quiet evening. We found ourselves at Mozzi’s, a locals only type of spot with pool tables, juke box and a fantastic old, dimly lit bar.

Stop #7 – San Simeon Elephant Seal Viewpoint

Soon after hitting the Pacific Coast Highway and turning north we came upon the San Simeon beach famous for its elephant seals. They are there most days in large numbers and since they do very little, quite easy to snap a picture of! Our timing was perfect as the sun was on its way down and the lighting was spectacular. I definitely recommend coming to this spot later in the day if it lines up with your plans.

Stop #8 – Ragged Point Inn

Big Sur is pretty famous for its outrageously priced accommodations. A more economical and far more laid back option is Ragged Point Inn. It’s a charming spot with a restaurant, trails and beautiful gardens on site. You have the option of staying in a room in a house with shared kitchen, patio and living spaces (but with your own bathroom) or more traditional hotel rooms in one of the several buildings on property. We were in the house at its farthest point which meant we had views on two sides and from our private patio of the coastline. I couldn’t have picked a better place to stay! In the morning we wandered the grounds and walked down to the beach.

Stop #9 – Los Padres National Forest. Silver Peak Wilderness Trail

Big Sur has more hiking trails than I think one could do in a lifetime, and certainly something not to be missed from the area. So, on our way back up the coast, we stopped off along the highway (which is how you enter most trailheads) and did the Silver Peak Wilderness Trail inside the Los Padres National Forest. There were a few options, anywhere from 5 mile trails to around 13, and we chose the 7 mile hike that took us up switchbacks along the coast and then back into a canyon and the forest. The elevation at the beginning was steep and had it been wet, would have been quite challenging, but the rest was fairly flat and out of the sun. It was a great moderate hike for someone interested in both seeing a bit of the national forest and taking in some outrageous views.

Stop #10 – Nepenthe Restaurant

We worked up an appetite so stopped on our way back at Nepenthe Restaurant. I can’t believe I hadn’t heard of it until this trip but it is certainly a gem on the PCH! On weekends there will be almost certainly be a wait but there’s a charming patio to enjoy a drink on and table tennis or other games to pass the time. The views are certainly worth it and the food is solid. Pictured is a roasted garlic and goat cheese plate with a great bottle of local wine.

On the way back from trips I often seek out itineraries that offer a long layover in a cool city. In this case I found myself with an extra day in the ever entertaining London. I’d been to London a few times before for work and had a chance to spend time in Soho and Central London and do most of the typical tourist attractions. So, on this trip, I opted to stay in the lesser traveled Shoreditch, a neighborhood in East London that has risen over the past few years to gain a hipster reputation.

My friend and I found a great AirBNB on one of more hipster streets, Brick Lane, as our jumping off point for exploring the area. On Saturday morning we stepped out to find a flea market was running right outside our apartment. We grabbed a great artisan coffee – it is a hipster neighborhood after all – and explored the flea market’s arts materials, food items and vintage clothing. Around each corner was a new intriguing shop, like Libreria and Labour and Wait, each of which had their own vibe. Down the street were brilliant graffiti murals, many of which took on political messages with striking colors, particular for London which isn’t a particularly colorful city. What was somewhat of a distraction were the many, many (I mean MANY) tour groups being lead to the street art, sometimes 30+ at a time, which made it difficult to feel like you were checking out a neighborhood. While the flea market was cool I would probably go back to Shoreditch and check out the shops and art on a day other than Saturday.

For brunch we stopped in at Andina to have their Peruvian breakfast. Known for pork, we didn’t hold back and ordered a breakfast tamale with pork and egg, and corn pancakes with berries. Fantastic brunch spot and we didn’t have to wait - I would eat there again in a heartbeat!

From Shoreditch we walked through town over to Bankside to continue our art-dominated day at the Tate Modern. We wandered through the free floors to see hundreds of pieces of art and half a dozen exhibits. It's an amazing amass of art. My particular favorite was an oversized Tower of Babel by Cildo Meireles built of radios each broadcasting in different languages that was a part of the Media Networks collection.

We wandered along the bridge and back over to Shoreditch to have dinner and get out for drinks. Major tip to anyone new to London – things close super early! If you make the mistake of making dinner reservations at 9pm by the time you get out of dinner many of the bars will be shutting down or only open for another hour or two. Though it may feel funny to have dinner at 7 or 8 in Europe that’s the best time to get dinner in London if you want to go out after. In our case we opted for dinner at Lyle’s which offers a daily set menu inspired by traditional British fare. We enjoyed nettles (something most people would never dream of having at a fine restaurant), cucumber with a taramasalata-style dip, a simple piece of fish and a beautiful piece of tender beef.

After we dinner we checked out the night scene based on recommendations from a few friends. We started at the Hoxton which was definitely a scene! It took some time to get a drink from the bar. The crowd was diverse and loud. When this bar started to quiet down we moved over to Nightjar, a late-night jazz club off City Road. A queue had formed so we had to wait a bit to get in but it was worth it. As a speakeasy-inspired spot it was underground with low ceilings and moody vibe. The jazz was great and the cocktails were inventive, to say the least. Several are served with things on fire or singed, and all have inventive names and ingredients.

It was a long day but certainly worthwhile to see the variety of Shoreditch and beyond. Consider making Shoreditch a base on your next stay in London.

Panajachel

Panajachel, a back-backer type of town, is the main jumping off point for the lake. It's the most direct town from Guatemala City and a main boat terminal. It's filled with shops, stands, restaurants and bars. Along the waterfront are a series of plastic chair-style bars with views of the lake. Down side streets are market-style stands with leather goods, textiles and trinkets. While in Panajachel we stopped in for lunch at El Patio and because it was a Monday were able to have the house specialty, a Caldo de Pollo (chicken soup) with vegetables and fresh tortillas. Maybe the best meal of the week and only a few dollars.

Santiago

First up was Santiago at the south side of the island. This is one of the largest villages on the lake and we went to walk through the traditional Mayan Sunday market. It was astonishing! Not only were we the only non-Mayans at the market, we were probably the only people over 5 feet tall. We were giants! The market had a great energy and people hardly noticed we were there. On our way out I stopped at one of the galleries on the main road and took home some art from the gallery owner.

San Juan

Next we stopped in San Juan, a smaller town known for art galleries though it was hard to know why. We wandered through the open-aired market, stopped into an artisan collective at the top of the hill and explored some of the streets before taking back off on the boat. This was the stop that I was most looking forward to and was surprisingly the least favorite of the day.

San Marcos

Our last stop was San Marcos, a yoga/backpacker enclave that was completely unexpected. It had a Bali vibe to it and people were out and about. On a recommendation we checked out Lush Hotel but unfortunately had missed the breakfast. The property is gorgeous. It's filled with tropical plants against whitewashed buildings. We walked the sole street in San Marcos, explored some of the back alleys covered in lush jungle foliage and had a light seafood meal on the water.

The brightly covered main house on the outside and in is decorated in paintings from local artists, oversized furniture and local textiles. Stretched out across the front of the building is a patio that looks out over the beautiful lake where guests can dine or lounge. My sister's favorite part of the main house is the large Fernando Botero painting hanging in the bar area.

Above the main house are two additional houses that serve as the main guestrooms. The upper house where we stayed included a separate living area and kitchen and a jaw-dropping infinity pool. From most vantage points you couldn't tell where the pool stopped and the lake began. The guest room was upscale with beautiful furniture, a patio looking out to the lake and an oversized bathroom with, once again, perfectly framed windows to enjoy the views and volcanoes.

The onsite restaurant was actually good! It focused on locally-inspired dishes and fresh ingredients. While significantly more expensive than any restaurants in Panajachel or other lake towns it was reasonable for the location, view and convenience. The restaurant was open throughout the day for meals and drinks. The bar menu was awesome - all the fruits were fresh squeezed. The only problem was how easy it was to order one after another...

The hotel staff was as wonderful as the hotel. The desk attendant was particularly helpful with planning trips and make arrangements. The hotel has a list of activities including private boat tours, volcano hikes, tours of the town and spa treatments that they can book on your behalf which takes the work out of all arrangements.

I adored Casa Palopo. It was beautiful, very affordable compared to similar hotels in other countries and the staff made us feel right at home. I hope to return and hope others have the chance to pay Casa Palopo a visit!

Day 1 | Antigua

After a short red-eye from San Francisco, my sister and I arrived in Guatemala City. Given the very early hour, some concerns over safety in GC and our desire to make a stop in Antigua on the way up to Lake Atitlan, we opted for a private car service and tour. I found Tours Atitlan online and had a fantastic experience.

Our driver greeted us as planned outside of arrivals and we were in Antigua by 7:30am. We met our guide at Fernando's Cafe where we enjoyed a lovely breakfast in their courtyard. I was surprised to discover that Antigua, and many other Guatemalan towns, have a yoga/hippie/organic following so many cafes offer vegan, vegetarian, organic and otherwise healthy options. 

Our tour guide first took us to the lookout at Cerro de la Cruz, then by foot around Antigua. We stopped in at the Church of San Francisco el Grande and nearby ruins, Plaza Mayor central park, Convent of the Merced, San Jose al Viejo church, the Santa Catalina Arch and spent some time walking down 5A Avenida Norte to go into some of the shops. While in the central park we say men playing the Marimba, a Mayan instrument that looks like a xylophone that four people play at the same time. Under the Santa Catalina Arch we happened upon a holiday procession where young boys were carrying the symbolic casket of one of the celebrated saints. It startled me at first! They looked far too happy to be at a funeral.

About halfway to Lake Atitlan, another 2.5 hours by car, we stopped for lunch at Restaurante Chichoy Chirijuyu and had mouth-watering chicken soup and freshly made tortillas.

In the evening we arrived at our hotel, Casa Palopo. We had dinner at the hotel on their outdoor patio overlooking the lake.

Day 2 | Antigua by Boat

Casa Palopo is a gorgeous hotel south of Panajachel, a main town on the island and jumping off point for most people traveling by ferry to other towns on the lake. Casa Palopo is essentially two guest houses where people can rent a room or the entire house. Each house includes a living area with games and comfortable furnishings and a pool. A main house has additional living space, a long patio and a well-known restaurant. My sister and I stayed in the upper house. It was a hike up some very steep stairs but we also had extraordinary views of the lake and a spectacular infinity pool.

On our first full day in Lake Atitlan we opted for a private boat tour of three towns around the lake. There are ferries from Panajachel that were far less expensive (try a few dollars versus our $130 for the day) however we chose the private boat for a few reasons. First, it came right to the dock at our hotel rather than our requiring to transfer by tuk tuk to Panajachel, about $15 - $20 round trip. Second, it was a Sunday which is traditionally the largest ferry transfer day of the week as people go home to their villages. On these days they overcrowd the boats and you can see them barely treading water. Lastly, the route we wanted to take would have required us zig-zagging all over the lake by ferry.

Santiago

First up was Santiago at the south side of the island. This is one of the largest villages on the lake and we went to walk through the traditional Mayan Sunday market. It was astonishing! Not only were we the only non-Mayans at the market, we were probably the only people over 5 feet tall. We were giants! The market had a great energy and people hardly noticed we were there. On our way out I stopped at one of the galleries on the main road and took home some art from the gallery owner.

San Juan

Next we stopped in San Juan, a smaller town known for art galleries though it was hard to know why. We wandered through a market and some of the streets before taking back off on the boat.

San Marcos

Our last stop was San Marcos, a yoga/backpacker enclave that was completely unexpected. It had a Bali vibe to it and people were out and about. On a recommendation we checked out Lush Hotel but unfortunately had missed the breakfast. The property is gorgeous. It's filled with tropical plants against whitewashed buildings. We walked the sole street in San Marcos, explored some of the back alleys covered in lush jungle foliage and had a light seafood meal on the water.

In the evening we returned to the hotel as it was getting dark and enjoyed some time in the hot tub. We had dinner on the patio overlooking the lake as the nightly lightning storm rolled in - typically overnight at this time of year and typically just over the lake rather than over the hotels.

The Lake

Lake Atitlan is stunning. My friends were so tired of me posting pics of it! It's mesmerizing and I couldn't take my eyes from it. It's beautiful in all weather, from all angles, and luckily there is a view of it from most establishments around the lake. Here are a few of my fave pics.

Day 3 | Lake Atitlan by Air

Lake Atitlan is known for being a beautiful paragliding spot. People come from around the world to train and work here given the consistent updrafts from the lake into the surrounding mountains and the beautiful scenery. We chose Real World Paragliding in Panajachel because it is the only certified shop in the area. They were also super responsive by email and easy to coordinate with. 

We jumped in a tuk tuk - the main tourist mode of transportation in the area - and headed into town. Our paragliding instructors were from Germany and Argentina, their English was excellent (not typically important to me except when doing a somewhat risky activity) and they made us feel right at home thousands of feet above the water. The paragliding itself was spectacular. The lake is gorgeous and we went in and out of the fog that rolls in from time to time.

Afterward we wandered the streets of Panajachel, a back-backer type of town. We had beers along the water and went into some of the shops. We stopped in for lunch at El Patio and because it was a Monday were able to have the house specialty, a Caldo de Pollo (chicken soup) with vegetables and fresh tortillas. Maybe the best meal of the week and only a few dollars.

In the evening we returned to the hotel for drinks, some pool time and dinner.

Day 4 - 5 | Guatemala City

Because my sister was in Guatemala for work we had the rare opportunity to visit the Presidential Palace as guests. We heard traditional Mayan music and enjoyed a reception overlooking the courtyard. The Presidential Palace is open to visitors and it's worthwhile to visit. In the evening we tried Kakao, a tourist restaurant for sure but conveniently located and the food was fine.

In the morning I wandered the neighborhood near the Intercontinental Hotel and found little to see or do. Unfortunately with Guatemala City crime rates I thought it best to not wander the city without company and without knowing the language.

Itinerary Overview

Day 1 | Antigua

• Transter and tour with Tours Atitlan

• Breakfast at Fernando's Cafe

• Antigua highlights including San Francisco el Grande and the Santa Catalina Arch

• Lunch at Restaurante Chichoy Chirijuyu

• Hotel Palopo in Lake Atitlan

Day 2 | Lake Atitlan

• Private boat tour to the villages of Santiago, San Juan and San Marcos

Day 3 | Lake Atitlan

• Paragliding with Real World Paragliding

• Explore Panajachel

• Lunch at El Patio

Day 4 | Guatemala City

• Transfer to Guatemala City

• Private event at the Presidential Palace

• Intercontinental Hotel

Day 5 | Guatemala City

• Neighborhood excursion

Helpful resources for planning our trip...

• Culture Trip history of the Presidential Palace

• Lonely Planet Guatemala (and book)

• The Guardian on art in Lake Atitlan villages

If I could do it over again...

• I would have opted for a night or two in San Marcos at Lush Hotel. It wouldn't be easy to get to after traveling into the country, but it looked a worthwhile journey for a few days of relaxation in isolated San Marcos.

• Once we met our tuk tuk driver and realized how easy it was to get into town we might have opted for a few more meals off the property. The food at Casa Palopo was quite good so it we were pressed to leave the convenience and ease of the hotel first thing in the morning or after long days out.

• We didn't have time for it but I would have loved to see the Mercado Central (market) in Guatemala City.

Giaxa

On the recommendation of friends we set out to find a table at Gaixa, a well known restaurant down one of Hvar's romantic back alleys. Gaixa specializes in modernizing traditional Croatian dishes against the backdrop of Hvar's old town walls.

The restaurant has several small seating sections including inside the restaurant (if AC is your priority), a petite walled patio and along the alley street itself. Wherever you sit it feels intimate. The food was beautiful and, considering it's quality, fairly reasonable compared to other high-end restaurants in Croatia.

The meal started with a hearty amuse bouche of simple tomato broth and a chickpea croquette. For a starter we shared the chef's sampling of spreads and bread, and for a main course we each had one of the traditional Dalmatian stews. I enjoyed the Dalmatian Brodesto, a fish stew with fish, scampi, octopus and mussels in a tomato and wine sauce over pollenta. It was surprisingly sweet though the wine and vinegar kept the sweetness from overpowering the stew. To end the meal we shared the lemon cake which was quite dense and very flavorful.

Gaixa is a not-to-miss meal while in Hvar. If you're there during high season a reservation is highly recommended.

Lungo Mare

If Gaixa is the modern twist, Lungo Mare is its counter for true traditional Croatian fare. It's off the beaten path down a residential street about a 20 minute walk from the old town with a bit of elevation. If I hadn't heard it was a fantastic restaurant, Lungo Mare could have turned me away given the touristy-type of awning it has out over its large patio and sharp lighting. I'm so glad we looked past the exterior because once inside it was a charming spot.

As we walked up the stairs to the restaurant we were greeted by a local from the neighborhood who reassured us we had picked the best restaurant on the island and the locals favorite.

As a welcome, the restaurant shared fish croquettes with a tartar-style dip. They were delightful! The restaurant also shared tuna pate with the bread which was impossible to eat a reasonable portion of, it was just too good to leave any behind. We started with a salad and I have to say it may have been one of the best salads I've ever had anywhere, and I've had a LOT of salads! It was incredibly fresh, simply salted and so satisfying. We didn't have any additional starters as we opted for the generous and hearty Hvarska Gregada, a traditional Hvar stew with fish, potatoes, olive oil and white wine. The two of us couldn't even come close to finishing the dish so if you're there with a group consider sharing it 3 - 4 ways. It really can't be missed, it was one of the best dishes of the entire trip!

At the end of the meal, as if you were in your friend's home, the server brought out homemade limoncello to enjoy as we prepared ourselves for the walk back far, far up the hill to our AirBNB. It was a charming spot and I would have been sad to have missed it on my stay in Hvar.

Our car transfer arrived promptly at 9am to escort us to the Dubrovnik port. I had thought the boat would take off from the old town port but instead the boat went out from the actual port, the same area used by the ferries, cruise ships and larger catamarans to reach further Croatian Islands.

For about $150 per person our group of five rented a boat that was supposed to comfortably fit eight (possible but a tight squeeze). There was a bathroom on board, a full table at the back that fit all five of us, as well as seating off the bow of the boat for 4-5 to comfortably sit even as the boat moved between locations.

To start our day we hit the sea cave on Kolocep island, an area where we could swim into a cave ominously illuminated by the blue seeping into the cavern. Tide timing and weather conditions are everything with this cave and we hit at just the right time; low enough time to scoot in without having to dive under and few enough tourists to have a moment just to ourselves. From the cave we followed the coast which may have been my favorite part. The island was stunning; beautiful foliage, birds diving, perfect lighting and not another boat in sight.

Up next we took a short break at Sunj beach, a rare sandy beach on Lopud. We swam up, ordered some beers and french fries and enjoyed the views. On our next stop we headed to the other side of the island and had an amazing lunch at Restaurant Dubrovnik. The fresh seafood was phenomenal. I enjoyed the fish soup as well as the octopus. The best item on the table, though, was the fresh seafood stew served tableside. It was rich and flavorful.

From here we stopped at Sudurad on Sipan island to swim in the crystal clear waters, and then the small town of Sipanska on the other side of the island.

In hindsight, we would have skipped the sandy beach - it wasn't clean and was swarming with children and bees - as well as the last town of Sipanska as it was very sleepy with little to see or do aside from have a drink along the water. It was also and the farthest stop on our trip so the transport time would have been better enjoyed elsewhere.

We had a fabulous day and I highly recommend squeezing the Elaphite islands into your trip to Dubrovnik.

I'm never a big fan of a rush-through-a-country approach but I was told countless times that a day trip to Montenegro should not be missed and I'm so glad I took the advice. Our group booked our trip through Adria Luxury Travel, a reputable company with many positive reviews, now including mine. We were picked up directly from our house at 8am and started our travel to the farthest point of our Montenegro adventure. Our driver chose the Konfin checkpoint, a smaller border crossing along the coast. This route is not used by the tour buses and is a bit out of the way of the main crossing point so is more often than not a faster option by car. The gamble, however, is that it is one lane so if there is an issue (from what I understand, typically minor drug smuggling) the road gets blocked until it's resolved. Luckily for us this was not the case!

The approach by our guide was to drive to the farthest point of our trip that day and then make our way back along the coast. The pros to this route meant less traffic in the morning to contend with and a shorter drive at the end of the day. The alternative is to start in the north and save the longer drives for hotter times of the day. I was happy with our approach so we could get the bulk of the driving over and done with, and visit our last stop at Our Lady of the Rock during the magical evening hour.

Our first stop was a viewpoint of Sveti Stefan, a small walled in village whose only entry point is across a narrow strip. A favorite of celebrities, people can only enter with a hotel accommodation which puts off paparazzi. Apparently the Beckhams were just here on holiday this past July and prefer the island for its privacy.

Up next we visited Budva, a small town with Medieval tourist center just a few minutes away. After a brief history lesson from our guide we explored the old town. We spent a few Kuna to walk through the Citadel which has gorgeous views of the larger city and seas, then wandered a few of the streets before taking a quick beer and snack break to cool off from the heat. The city could easily be explored in a half hour and makes for a nice, if brief, stopover.

Our third stop took us to Kotor, a larger and bustling walled city with walls that span up the hillside in an elaborate pattern. Kotor has a large bay and thus the cruise ships are able to come right up to the city walls. We arrived early afternoon and the city was filled with tourists. It wasn't too much to manage but was certainly on the crowded side. In cooler weather I would have loved to scale the walls up the hill to take on the coastal sights and see the city from a bird's eye view however with temperatures mid-afternoon reaching nearly 100 Fahrenheit our group opted to stay in the city center. Apparently it takes about 45 minutes to climb the stairs to the top and another 45 to wind back down the other side.

On recommendation from our guide we stopped in for lunch at Pescaria Dekaderon. While most eat on the first floor surrounded by tourists passing by, we were lead to the second floor which offered misting machines to help us cool down. For reasons unknown to us we were the only patrons on the second floor so had a lovely private dining experience for our leisurely lunch. The food was fantastic! We had the peppercorn steak, stuffed pork, octopus and shrimp. Every dish was memorable but the crowd favorite was the thoroughly tender octopus, one of the most delicate I've ever had.

For our last stop we pulled into Perast on the Bay of Kotor to see Our Lady of the Rocks, a 15th century church on a man-made island that is truly stunning. After a quick walk down the city's waterfront we boarded a small boat and were on the island in a few minutes. Our guide took us through the church and several other rooms containing artifacts taken care of over the years by the priests who oversaw it. Interestingly there were quite a few weapons apparently used to fend off the island. The stop was a quick one and after a few pics we took off back to Perast and on to Dubrovnik.

On this trip, a group of friends and I chose to stay a week to take the multitude in, find a balance of our favorite things and walk away with a smattering of the best things in Dubrovnik and nearby. All without wasted travel days or - best of all - repacking!

Day 1 - R&R

After arriving the evening before, this was our day to catch up on the time zone, take a dip in the mesmerizing Adriatic Sea and relax poolside at our AirBNB, Villa Soline. The late summer temperature off the Dalmatian coast is a refreshing but warm 24C/77F; cool enough to escape the August heat but warm enough to be comfortable splashing around for some time.

What many don't know is that the beaches in Croatia are primarily rock. They are on the small side and it's still comfortable to put a towel down and sunbathe by the sea but they are not very comfortable to walk on. A major recommendation to follow is to bring water shoes for wading in and out of the sea, both for the rocks but even more importantly due to the prominence of spiky sea urchins. They have been cleared from most tourist beaches but if you venture anywhere outside hotel or beach clubs definitely bring shoes. If you despise laying on rocks, another item to bring to the beach is a yoga mat.

In the evening we washed up and ventured south to Cavtat, a small St. Tropez-like Beach town with a restaurant and yacht-lined seawall promenade. It was a Saturday and the town was lively. In a square children were performing different dances and vendors lined up to sell local foods. We opted to eat at Konaba Galija, a restaurant featuring a large outdoor grill where they cook up fresh seafood caught that day and an assortment of Croatian meats. We shared a seafood platter with an amazing amount of local lobster, fresh seabass and swordfish, tuna pate, shrimp, mussels and more. We also shared pork ribs and several bottles of local Croatian wine. We almost turned away because one side of the restaurant has a large and somewhat obnoxious lighted BBQ sign but I'm so glad we persisted, the food was simple and fantastic.

Day 2 - Coral Beach Club

Today we continued the beach theme and spent the better part of the day at Coral Beach Club just down from Dubrovnik's main port. From the beach you have gorgeous views of the Franjo Tudman bridge and along the Croatian coast. In the morning low key and low volume music plays while people lounge and take dips in the sea. As the day progresses the music intensifies with a DJ playing and more people arrive to the club.

We took advantage of some of the services including lunch - very decent food for a beach club! - and the massage services. Several from the group tried the pressure point massage which was as, if not more, intense than deep tissue and relieved some major muscle pressure of mine. But, be warned, we each had bruises the next day. It is not a massage for the faint!

Day 3 - Must-do Montenegro

I'm never a big fan of a rush-through-a-country approach but I was told countless times that a day trip to Montenegro should not be missed and I'm so glad I took the advice. Our group booked our trip through Adria Luxury Travel, a reputable company with many positive reviews, now including mine. We were picked up directly from our house at 8am and started our travel to the farthest point of our Montenegro adventure. Our driver chose the Konfin checkpoint, a smaller border crossing along the coast. This route is not used by the tour buses and is a bit out of the way of the main crossing point so is more often than not a faster option by car. The gamble, however, is that it is one lane so if there is an issue (from what I understand, typically minor drug smuggling) the road gets blocked until it's resolved. Luckily for us this was not the case!

The approach by our guide was to drive to the farthest point of our trip that day and then make our way back along the coast. The pros to this route meant less traffic in the morning to contend with and a shorter drive at the end of the day. The alternative is to start in the north and save the longer drives for hotter times of the day. I was happy with our approach so we could get the bulk of the driving over and done with, and visit our last stop at Our Lady of the Rock during the magical evening hour.

Our first stop was a viewpoint of Sveti Stefan, a small walled in village whose only entry point is across a narrow strip. A favorite of celebrities, people can only enter with a hotel accommodation which puts off paparazzi. Apparently the Beckhams were just here on holiday this past July and prefer the island for its privacy.

Up next we visited Budva, a small town with Medieval tourist center just a few minutes away. After a brief history lesson from our guide we explored the old town. We spent a few Kuna to walk through the Citadel which has gorgeous views of the larger city and seas, then wandered a few of the streets before taking a quick beer and snack break to cool off from the heat. The city could easily be explored in a half hour and makes for a nice, if brief, stopover.

Our third stop took us to Kotor, a larger and bustling walled city with walls that span up the hillside in an elaborate pattern. Kotor has a large bay and thus the cruise ships are able to come right up to the city walls. We arrived early afternoon and the city was filled with tourists. It wasn't too much to manage but was certainly on the crowded side. In cooler weather I would have loved to scale the walls up the hill to take on the coastal sights and see the city from a bird's eye view however with temperatures mid-afternoon reaching nearly 100 Fahrenheit our group opted to stay in the city center. Apparently it takes about 45 minutes to climb the stairs to the top and another 45 to wind back down the other side.

On recommendation from our guide we stopped in for lunch at Pescaria Dekaderon. While most eat on the first floor surrounded by tourists passing by, we were lead to the second floor which offered misting machines to help us cool down. For reasons unknown to us we were the only patrons on the second floor so had a lovely private dining experience for our leisurely lunch. The food was fantastic! We had the peppercorn steak, stuffed pork, octopus and shrimp. Every dish was memorable but the crowd favorite was the thoroughly tender octopus, one of the most delicate I've ever had.

For our last stop we pulled into Perast on the Bay of Kotor to see Our Lady of the Rocks, a 15th century church on a man-made island that is truly stunning. After a quick walk down the city's waterfront we boarded a small boat and were on the island in a few minutes. Our guide took us through the church and several other rooms containing artifacts taken care of over the years by the priests who oversaw it. Interestingly there were quite a few weapons apparently used to fend off the island. The stop was a quick one and after a few pics we took off back to Perast and on to Dubrovnik.

Day 4 - Supetar Island & Club Revelin

On recommendation of our AirBNB owner, Boris, we slept in and then headed out to Supetar Island for the day. After a call to the island we were picked up from the beach within the hour and off to the small private island just south of Dubrovnik. The island is small, perhaps a 10 minute walk around the exterior at most. At its center is the Fisherman's Club, a series of picnic tables with thatched coverings that make up the restaurant and bar. Upon arrival the owner, Nico, offered us shots of two local Croatian liquors, one resembling something like a smoother ouzo and another a fortified fruit liqueur. Both were delightful and as we finished our glasses he was there to pour more.

Before lunch we opted to take a swim in the Adriatic off the back of the island. With not a soul in sight it felt as if we had the island to ourselves. On the day we visited it was a national holiday and only a few dozen people were on the island. During the summer boats from Dubrovnik advertise a stop to the island and the owner allows about 100 people to visit at a time.

For lunch we had a fresh fish feast! A platter came out with fresh fish caught that morning, mussels and sardines. We were also served bread, wilted greens and a fresh slaw-style salad. It was one of the best meals of the week and easily worth the trip out to the island. The price tag was about $75/person with boat transfers, wine, food and the priceless hospitality of our island host.

While not typical, I would be remiss not to mention our return trip was on the adventurous side! The weather suddenly turned and what was a smooth sea took on an endless array of whitecaps. After waiting it out the entire island decided to call it a day and we piled into the small boat to return to shore. Though bumpy and wet, I never had reason for concern. Given the direction of the wind we had to dock in Cavtat and in an endearing gesture Nico personally drove our group back to our Villa.

Later that evening, after a long rest, we ventured out to Revelin night club, the city's only discotheque located in a part of the medieval castle walls. With our group of five we opted for a table. Considering the prices I'm used to seeing in Las Vegas it was beyond reasonable and extremely worthwhile to go in on a table. The table fee is actually a minimum spend so for $86 per person we enjoyed a bottle of champagne, vodka and mixers, private server and table, and access to the uncrowded and elevated VIP area. A few of us chose to go down onto the main dance floor throughout the night and others chose to avoid the crowds and enjoy the table area. The party doesn't start until after 1 and goes until about 6. The crowd started to thin out around 4 but there were certainly still enough people on the floor to call it a party. One note for the ladies, by 4 there was a lot of glass on the main dance floor so I highly recommend staying in the VIP area if in heels or wearing closed toes shoes on the floor if you're staying until sunrise. It was precarious in sandals to say the least.

Day 5 - Elaphite Islands

Despite the late night, we were out on the road by 9am for our private boat excursion. Once again we used Adria Luxury Travel to book a private tour of the Elaphite Islands around Dubrovnik. Our speed boat was waiting for us as we arrived to the Dubrovnik port. I had thought the boat would take off from the old town port but instead the boat went out from the actual port, same area used by the ferries, cruise ships and larger catamarans to reach further Croatian Islands.

For about $150 per person our group of five rented a boat that was supposed to comfortably fit eight (possible but a tight squeeze). There was a bathroom on board, a full table at the back that fit all five of us, as well as seating off the bow of the boat for 4-5 to comfortably sit even as the boat moved between locations.

To start our day we hit the sea cave on Kolocep island, an area where we could swim into a cave ominously illuminated by the blue seeping into the cavern. Tide timing and weather conditions are everything with this cave and we hit at just the right time; low enough time to scoot in without having to dive under and few enough tourists to have a moment just to ourselves. From the cave we followed the coast which may have been my favorite part. The island was stunning; beautiful foliage, birds diving, perfect lighting and not another boat in sight.

Up next we took a short break at Sunj beach, a rare sandy beach on Lopud. We swam up, ordered some beers and french fries and enjoyed the views. On our next stop we headed to the other side of the island and had an amazing lunch at Restaurant Dubrovnik. The fresh seafood was phenomenal. I enjoyed the fish soup as well as the octopus. The best item on the table, though, was the fresh seafood stew served table-side. It was rich and flavorful. From here we stopped at Sudurad on Sipan island to swim in the crystal clear waters, and then the small town of Sipanska on the other side of the island.

In hindsight, we would have skipped the sandy beach - it wasn't clean and was swarming with children and bees - as well as the last town of Sipanska as it was very sleepy with little to see or do aside from have a drink along the water. It was also and the farthest stop on our trip so the transport time would have been better enjoyed elsewhere.

Day 6 - Dubrovnik Old Town

Finally, after nearly a week in Dubrovnik, we ventured into the fabled old town. To best avoid the afternoon heat we started with a walk along the top of the city walls. The most startling part for our group was realizing that what felt like a 5 mile walk was under 1.5 miles. It was hot, somewhat far and certainly worthwhile, but the distance covered was surprisingly brief! The walls offered extraordinary views of the city as a whole, the Adriatic Sea, choice parts of the city and unforgettable film locations from Game of Thrones (backwater bay anyone?)

After our walk along the walls we ended at the port and made our way back into the city. We were overheated so opted for some A/C and snacks at Bistro Tavulin. This may have been one of our favorite meals of the trip! Fresh salad, oysters and handmade gnocchi with pesto. From here to we wandered the streets. We saw the old monastery and GOT favorite film location, the Rector's Palace, home of scenes from Qarth, and walked past the "shame" stairs.

After about five hours in the city we had done it all; walked the walls, had a memorable meal and explored all the main attractions. To get home we headed to the port and caught a local ferry to Cavtat.

After an afternoon enjoying the house, napping and snacks, we headed back into the city for our 10pm dinner reservation at Michelin-starred 360. The restaurant tables are organized along the old town city walls, beautifully lit with the port as your view. It was a fantastic meal deserving of its star and the price tag. We each ordered from the set menus, two were on offer, and added the wine pairings which were perfection. It was a lovely way to end the trip before saying farewell to Dubrovnik.

Highlights

- Day 1: Beach day on the Adriatic & Cavtat

- Day 2: Coral Beach Club

- Day 3: Day trip to Montenegro

- Day 4: Lunch at Supetar Island & Night Out at Club Revelin

- Day 5: Elaphite Islands

- Day 6: Old Town Dubrovnik & 360 Restaurant

When most people visit the Algarve they opt for a resort on the beach or a place in one of the many Mediterranean vacation towns along the coast. On this trip I chose to stay a bit inland. I wanted to find the bustle when I felt like it rather than be enveloped by it. I couldn't have chosen a better spot for the end of my Portugal road trip. Full disclosure, if you're looking for a party this is not your place.

The Vila Monte resort property is gorgeous. Divided with intimate gardens, pathways, ponds, and lounge areas, the layout conspicuously hides the breadth of the property. There are 55 rooms at the resort but it feels as if it's even more of a boutique. There are two pools (and two pool bars!), one for all ages and another for adults only. I was pleased to see guests respect the division, keeping the adults pool splash-free and on the quieter side.

Each room was well appointed with little extras like bath salts, flowers, a pashmina for the cool nights, hat for poolside convenience and an umbrella I was happy I didn't have to use. The hotel has two restaurants on property in addition to room service. I enjoyed the more casual restaurant, they served regional fare and the soups were fantastic. I was less impressed with the higher end restaurant, I didn't feel the cost was worthwhile and would have preferred to go into one of the nearby resort towns to find a nicer meal. The service was outstanding in all parts of the hotel, from the valet to the front desk to the bars. I was never far from someone to assist when needed and each person went out of their way to ensure I was comfortable during my stay. During a big football match, the hotel staff rearranged the lobby furniture to create a comfortable viewing area and extended hotel service to accommodate the crowd.

Location-wise the hotel is quite convenient if you have a car. There was plenty of parking and there were numerous day trips for anyone interested in breaking up their stay. Several towns are within 20 - 30 minutes of the hotel as are several of the more beautiful beaches. The hotel also offers a daily shuttle and short boat ride to one of the sand islands off the coast and can include lunch, chairs and other extras if desired. Down the street there is also an olive oil plantation that's open to visitors. During my stay I went into Tavira to check out the small town one morning and have lunch on the square. Another evening I drove into Almancil to enjoy dinner at the Michel Star restaurant Sao Gabriel. I have a separate blog post for that memorable meal.

I couldn't be more emphatic for my recommendation of Vila Monte if you're looking for a quiet and relaxing piece to your Portugal vacation.

Alongside his more family-style Thai Garden restaurant sits Sao Gabriel, Chef Leo Pereira's Michelin star restaurant. Not far from his hometown in  the Algarve. Chef Pereira brings Portuguese favorites and local ingredients into his menu options ("creative", "contemporary" or "a la carte").

Though I loved some of the leaps on the "creative" menu, I opted for the "contemporary" because there were a few items I had yet to try in the region, including lamb and mackerel, and a few I wanted to try again, including the caldeirada fish stew and fois gras.

• The meal, like many of my favorites in Portugal, began with homemade breads (5 different kinds here) and several spread options. In this case there were three; salted butter made in house, shrimp butter made in house and local olive oil. The shrimp butter stole the show.

• The first course was an amusing dried shrimp from the riverbed with cuttlefish and cured squid. It was like starting with a few chips to salted up the palate and make it crave more.

• Next was the marinated mackerel adorned with vegetables and topped with a thick watercress puree. Two types of quince were in the dish, a paste and puree, which added a nice sweetness to balance the watercress.

• Another fish course followed in the form of the caldeirada fish stew. I could subsist on this stew alone. Though I adored the more homey and rustic caldeirada I had in Evora, this version was on another level. The flavors were clean and bright and I'm delighted I had a chance to taste Sao Gabriel's version of the Portugal favorite. I was told the broth develops for a full 48 hours before being served.

• The fois gras was next and didn't disappoint. It was perfectly seared with a bit of sweetness added. A cubed orange marmalade-type and berry compote were my favorite accouterments.

• The savory part of the meal ended with a beautifully prepared lamb alongside mushrooms, artichoke and cauliflower. It's juices and garnishes were rich and it felt like the meal had been building towards this dish.

• As a pre-dessert (but what I would squarely count as dessert) I was brought a basil sorbet alongside a sweet and creamy meringue. It was served in a large bowl on a cold stone surrounded by fresh basil. The smell was overwhelming in a good way.

• Up next were three desserts; cheese with egg and cream, a traditional Portuguese convent dessert, a local holiday dessert with sweet potato and rice pudding ice cream.

• As a bonus, there was another dessert of dark ice cream and sweet cheese.

• Finally, the meal ended with petit fours. At this point I barely had room to sample them!

Throughout the meal the servers were attentive and engaging. Before each course the server theatrically explained each dish and once I finished the plate was immediately picked up. The wine pairings were superb and if I was ever dry someone was there to add a splash more to my glass.

To the delight of many patrons, the chef came out at the end of the evening to introduce himself and chat. It was a warm example that clearly lent itself to how the rest of the staff treated guests. This was one of the pricier meals I enjoyed in Portugal but the experience made it worthwhile.

I've used mud masks in the past and while they're effective at the deep cleaning, the sacrifice is moisture. After travel, when I often find myself struggling for hydration, the last thing I want is to strip out what little moisture I have. Kiehl's has formulated a mask that cleans out my pores while soothing my skin. I was quite surprised at how much moisture my skin retained after its use. Each time I woke up in the morning after using this mask the night before my skin was in better shape than the previous day.

Kiehl's Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Mask comes in a 1 oz and 5 oz size so the smaller one is perfect for tossing into your toiletry bag. The 5 oz size is, of course, the better deal so to make it travel-ready I go to to the makeup counters and ask for a few of the sample containers. They're a fraction of an ounce, take up little room and for non liquid items like this they keep it well enough for travel.

I'll admit this isn't an all-natural brand, is owned by a large parent company, and if you're into reading the fine print in ingredients there are some controversial lines. But, in terms of results for travel, I'm sticking with it.

For $16 for the 1 oz or $33 for the 5 oz it's worth trying out. I bought mine at Sephora but Kiehl's is available at a number of different stores. I hope it works as well for you as it has for me!

Evora Timeless Home on AirBNB

While in Evora I was lucky enough to stumble upon a gem of an AirBNB, "Evora Timeless Home". The apartment, run by Sophia and her husband, Manuel, is perfectly accommodated. They have thought of everything, from personalized recommendations, fruit and wine welcome gifts, upscale towels and linens, even to a mister on the patio! As what I would consider a bonus, there is parking just a few minutes walk outside the city's main walls meaning there is no need to actually drive through the narrow and difficult to navigate streets. I did by accident and I don't recommend it!

Sophia and Manuel were super communicative and happy to provide recommendations. They turned me on to a day trip to Monsaraz and recommended dinner on xx street which I may have missed without their direction. The apartment is also just a few minutes by foot to the main downtown but down a quiet and peaceful street.

Pousada Convento de Evora

Another accommodation option in Evora is the popular Pousada Convento. Pousadas are hotels throughout Portugal that are converted historical buildings. Some are castles, convents or old family homes. I made a visit to check out the property and the pictures online don't do the space justice. It's plain from the outside, it was a convent after all, but the interior is tastefully decorated with natural light streaming in. As a part of the church's original grounds, the hotel is quite literally next door to Evora's main tourist attractions. It is beside both the church and Temple of Diane Roman ruins and down the street from the museum.

Past the lobby, the main sitting room furniture, though older, doesn't look nearly as dated as it does in the online pics. On the contrary, it creates a warm and comfortable atmosphere. The restaurant is layed out around a central courtyard filled with charming trees and in the evenings they let in the cool evening air. Off one side of the hotel is a long cooridor of modern lounge furniture and a generous patio with views of the valleys below Evora. The pool area, which looked like no more than a kiddie pool in need of updating online, was actually charming in a boutique hotel way. The hotel has nice pool furniture laid out and off to one side of the pool is a restaurant and bar. The Convento Pousada is a chic option for a stay in Evora.

It's everywhere and it captivates! I loved running into the street graffiti around town. Here are a few of my favorites but by no means all of the art I saw! It's everywhere you turn and fun to discover.

A few of my favorite graffiti/art spots included:

• In the LX Factory, the same building that houses Rio Maravhila, take the stairs up and and wander back into some of the hallways. Here you'll be able to peep into some of the artist studios and come across some of the artwork in the hallways. I was there on a Sunday and I was the only person walking through the hallways so it was both a fun art walk and break from the crowd. My favorite was the fresco of two women by Margarida Fleming.

• On top of the LX Factory from Rio Maravilha you can see several graffiti walls from the top roof and see the face off of the roof's statue with the National Sanctuary of Christ statue across the Tagus river.

• After visiting the Castelo de S. Jorge I wandered Alfama one more time and found some amazing graffiti art. You walk out of the castle walls towards the Palacio Belmonte hotel. Pass through the hotel's courtyard and down a small tunnel and on the other side is a park of graffiti. On Google maps you can look for the walking path Patio de Dom Fradique.

AirBNB offers a walking tour experience. I wasn't able to make the tour but I've heard amazing things.

For additional resources on finding art in Lisbon...

• TimeOut London's best art galleries to visit

• LisbonLux street art guide

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Wine Tasting

According to my host, the winery has over one thousand hectares of vineyards between the Alentejo, the Duoro in the north and closer to Portugal. They produce only organic wines and are one of the largest organic wine producers in the world.

Unlike American or French wines where single varietals are favored, Portuguese wines are trypically blends. Herdade do Esporao uses over 200 varietals to create their dozens of wines on offering.

In the tasting room I enjoyed a sampling of the winery's standard and reserve wines. The reserve bottles have beautiful labels designed each year by a new Portuguese artist. Some of the winery's favorite labels from past years can be found on the wall entering the restaurant across the lobby.

• We started with the 2017 Colheita white. I found it light, crisp and refreshing.

• The second was the 2016 white Esparao Reserve. It had moderate body, a mineral quality and was lightly oaked from the barrels it is aged in for a year.

• Our third was the 2016 Trincadeira, a lighter red. It was a bit young tasting and is said to keep for 5-6 years.

• Fourth was the 2015 red Esparao Reserve cabernet-heavy blend. It had some weight to it and was full-bodied.

• Last was the red Esparao Private collection, the nicest bottle available to taste. A 95 or so score, said my host, it was quite dry and very heavy. A powerful wine that is meant to keep for 25 years.

• As a bonus, they also shared a few of their beers for tasting. I tried the bock, a smooth and creamy version. I would have a hard time going back to a standard bock if I had this one on the regular! I also tried the Stout. Light for a stout and full of flavor.

I enjoyed the wines and walked away with a few bottles to take home.
 

Lunch

I heard the lunch was good but had no idea how wonderful it would really be. I opted for the 5-course tasting (there is also a la carte and a 7-course tasting as additional options) with wine pairing for 65 euros.

The restaurant is simple and has a full length patio covered by sprawling vines with views of the valley.

• To start I was brought a series of spreads and warm bread basket. The spreads included goat milk butter (my favorite!), pork butter and olive oil, all freshly made on property.

• My first course was an artful pigs head and fennel mustard toast.

• Second was a slow-cooked gelatinous egg surrounded by crisp garlic and lime-aroma greens. In the bowl they poured a pureed purslane soup, a Portguese succulent I hadn't heard of before, and shredded goat cheese to finish the room temperature dish.

• Third was the pike fish with small dried river shrimps and a lemony mint garnish from the property, only grown here in this region of Portugal. The dish also included a smokey pepper puree and grilled zucchini. The salty, fragrant dried shrimp add a beautiful shellfish fragrance. The shrimp and smokey pepper touches took what could be a somewhat straightforward vegetable puree and fish dish to another level.

• Fourth was the locally-celebrated Alentejo pork. The meat was from the neck so extra tender, topped with a very thin slice of belly that was almost like butter melting on the pork. The dish also included mushrooms and peas with a garlic puree.

• For dessert I enjoyed a lemon balm granita, strawberry ice cream and strawberries from the region. Bits of meringue with an earthy seasoning created a meld of salty, earthy and sweet.

• Before sending me off they shared some sweets made from the property's wine. They had a strong acid to make them bright and salty.

The most memorable part of the meal was the amazing balance of salt. Truly, the dishes were so perfectly salted it was noticeable. The balance of earthiness, salt and sweet was perfect. Nothing was too sweet or heavy and all dishes were clearly ingredients-forward. It was a meal worth traveling for.