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By Merilee Kern

As an ever-appreciative San Diego resident and a good life connoisseur indelibly on the hunt for the best of the best, it’s incumbent on me to experience and inform you, dear Reader, about notable San Diego-area “happenings” – those society events, grand openings, launch parties and such where the A-listers lurk…and that make the local luxury scene tick.

Courtesy of Bauman Photography

Here’s the INside track on yet another sensational San Diego soirée:

The Event: The San Diego Museum of Art’s 31st Annual Art Alive Exhibition Opening Celebration

The Scoop: I’ve again had the pleasure of attending the Opening Celebration event for Art Alive – The San Diego Museum of Art’s venerable annual fundraiser, this year held April 12-15, in which nearly 100 floral designers transform famous works of art from the Museum’s permanent collection into exquisite, equally expressive floral interpretations. As the Museum’s flagship fundraiser and a San Diego tradition for decades, Art Alive brings the permanent art collection to life in a fresh and imaginative way replete with vibrant displays of color, texture, shape and artistic vision at its best. The result is a not-to-be-missed experience with sights and smells you’ll not soon forget.

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Multiple events ensue throughout the highly anticipated Art Alive exhibition period, which kicked off with an Opening Celebration event that splendidly merged fine art, gourmet fare, and extraordinary floral displays. Here, VIP patrons were able to explore this year’s spectacular floral designs and the art that inspired them while sipping cocktails and sampling cuisine from San Diego’s most esteemed restaurants and chefs, including Trulucks, Nobu, Eddie V’s, The Marine Room and Mille Fleurs. Amid music-filled, lush garden-inspired backdrop, this sophisticated affair also proffered luxurious and unique silent auction items to further bolster the Museum’s fundraising effort.

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A spokesperson for the event noted, “Art Alive is The San Diego Museum of Art’s primary fundraiser for the institution. Celebrating its 31st anniversary this year, the event is one of the longest running and most widely attended happenings of its kind in the United States. The unique exhibition features highly creative floral designers who take inspiration from the Museum’s renowned collection, and create magnificent floral arrangements. The results are truly awe-inspiring.”

New and notable this year at this year’s Art Alive extravaganza, the Museum shared several works of art from the permanent collection by artist Marc Chagall and proudly hosted New York-based floral designer and Chagall’s granddaughter, Bella Meyer, as the featured lecturer.

The Bottom Line: As the Museum’s signature fundraising event and a highly anticipated San Diego tradition, Art Alive provides financial support for critical programs, education, outreach and the preservation, presentation, and interpretation of priceless works of art.  The beautiful transformation of the art and the Museum itself, in addition to complementary programming and kids’ activities, draws a diverse crowd and even fosters a new generation of art and floral enthusiasts.

Through this Art Alive event, visitors will undoubtedly take away a new appreciation for The San Diego Museum of Art’s permanent collection by viewing each piece through a new perspective. Art Alive encourages viewers to see art differently, as interpreted through nature’s bounty.

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Author Merilee Kern ([right

Visit http://www.sdmart.org/programs-events/art-alive-2012 for a complete schedule of Art Alive events and to learn more.

Some or all of the accommodations(s), experience(s), item(s) and/or service(s) detailed above were provided at no cost to accommodate this review, but all opinions
expressed are entirely those of Merilee Kern and have not been influenced in any way.

The 2012 “Winter That Never Was” has had an interesting effect on the Northeast, effectively cancelling out the muddy season in the Adirondacks and nearby regions. Locals are already testing out the bike trails around Lake Placid and reporting that they’re in mid-season condition.

Photo Courtesy of The Fern Lodge

Stop by Temptations from Lake Placid Gourmet for fresh-baked bread, artisan jams and preserves, and cheese from local creameries. Taste regionally produced wines at Swedish Hill or the Smoking Cork. It’s maple syruping season, so definitely drive out to the Cornell University Extension maple syrup project in Uihlein Forest, or even over to Black Rooster Maple in Keene. Note that if you want a facility tour, the Cornell outpost only offers them on weekends, and usually by appointment. If you’re a microbrew fan, both the Lake Placid Brewery and the Great Adirondack Steakhouse have onsite breweries and fun, convivial atmosphere.Overall, lodging rates in the region tend to be approximately 40% less in the off-season than after Memorial Day. At the Golden Arrow on Mirror Lake, midweek rates start at an incredible $69 per person. This big, friendly lakefront hotel is very popular with families because of its condo-style guest accommodations, indoor heated pool (out of service April 1-11), and pretty white sand beach. While there’s no guarantee of beach conditions just yet, temperatures have spiked to 78 degrees already…so who knows, you might get an unexpected day to sunbathe.

On the most luxury end of the lodging spectrum, Mirror Lake Inn is the place for epicureans in mid-April. As host hotel for the annual Adirondack Festival of Food & Wine (April 19-22), it is offering a variety of ticket packages and special access passes with a two-night minimum stay.

Room Interior at the Elysee Hotel

The Hotel Elysée is one of three HKHotels properties in New York, and there are good reasons why these hotels consistently rank high among both pros and travelers. The properties are beautiful, and the service is exceptional.

I stayed in a gorgeous, spacious suite at the Elysée with a full kitchen – a small refrigerator, a sink, a microwave, and a stove. There was a living area and a bedroom, both with widescreen televisions.

The furniture was traditional with a European flavor, containing a couch, table, striped chairs, a dresser, and a desk in the living area. The décor was in golds and muted oranges for a classic and elegant, but not staid or boring, look. If you want a suite, though, book early. There are only three junior suites, seven regular suites, and three Premiere suites. The regular rooms are also spacious, however, and there are 87 of those available in the hotel.

The Elysée was built in the 1920s and is named for a French restaurant from that time. It has always been a site to attract the rich and famous, and today is no different. This is due, in part, to its location just off Park Avenue and within walking distance of Central Park, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdales, Rockefeller Center, and the Museum of Modern Art.

The Stairway at Hotel Elysee

Monkey Bar in particular, the hotel’s restaurant, is often on lists for “celebrity sightseeing” in New York. The restaurant has served as a backdrop for scenes on “Mad Men” and “Sex and the City,” for example. I had lunch there one day and saw former Governor of New York, Elliot Spitzer, also enjoying lunch at a nearby table.

Monkey Bar is known for its wall murals with caricatures of famous New York figures, as well as monkeys, which are remnants of the original murals by Charlie Wala from the early 1950s. In a city with tons of restaurants, it’s surprisingly difficult to find inspired menus that don’t copy one another. Monkey Bar has some very interesting dishes. I had the sugar pumpkin risotto with braised chestnuts and duck confit. I especially loved the small homemade Parker rolls brought to us at the start of the meal. My mouth is watering just thinking about them.

Elysée Hotel Lobby

Items on the dinner menu include roasted day boat scallops with pickled dates and Jerusalem artichokes as an appetizer and Guinea hen with beets, endive, and pistachios as an entrée. You can order many of these dishes from room service.

I especially appreciate that HK’s hotels offer several complimentary amenities to all guests. At the Elysée, these include free WiFi throughout the property and a Continental breakfast with pastries, fruits, cereals, juices, coffee, tea, and boiled eggs. Cookies, fruits, and drinks are available throughout the day, too, and newspapers are provided. A reception is held every weeknight from 5:00 to 8:00 p.m. with complimentary Prosecco, wine, cheese, and hors d’oeuvres for guests.

There is no gym on the premises (which is not unusual for New York where space is at a premium), but daily passes to New York Sports Club are given to all guests.

As you would expect of a 5-star New York hotel, all rooms have hair dryers, in-room safes, minibars, desks, MP3 docks, clock radios, voicemail, robes, and high-end toiletries in the bathroom by Gilchrist and Soames. A few rooms even have terraces or solariums, so if you want one of these, be sure to ask when you make your reservation.

Elysée Hotel

Elysée is entirely non-smoking. If you like a soft mattress, though, you have options at the hotel. The mattresses are firm, but you can request a softer featherbed when you reserve your stay.

Room rates run from $299 to about $1,500, but a special this summer will allow you to stay at the hotel for as little as $207. This is a steal if you’re planning a trip to New York, where even 2-star and 3-star hotels tend to cost at least $200 a night. Even if you pay the normal rate for a room, the prices are excellent for this level of service and quality.

Hotel Elysée definitely has one of the most beautiful lobbies among New York’s boutique hotels, and I love the stairwells with painted fresco-like walls. Even if you don’t manage to stay there, take a quick peek when you’re in the area.

 HOTEL ELYSÉE, NEW YORK

60 East 54^th Street

New York, NY 10022

(800) 535-9733

http://www.elyseehotel.com/

Melanie Votaw was given a complimentary stay at this hotel, but she is dedicated to providing readers with sincere appraisals of the properties she visits. 

Delta boat ride through Gaylord Opryland Hotel

By Janice Nieder

A day in Nashville, Tennessee hits all the high notes.

I have to admit that (shhhh) I never really was much of a country music fan. But after spending 24 hours in Nashville (which proudly goes by the moniker “Music City”) completely immersed in music lore, I had gained a whole new appreciation for the genre.

Elvis actually cut 200 records at RCA Studio B

My first stop was the legendary RCA Studio B (“home of 1,000 hits.”) After cutting my very first record there—after only one take—I was shocked by the absence of screaming groupies who should have been clamoring for my autograph after such an auspicious debut. Maybe it had something to do with the rather dated song choice, Elvis’s “Can’t Help Falling in Love” or perhaps it’s because anyone can book a group tour here that includes a live recording session… no matter, I just listened to my CD again and Elvis and I sounded really good!

Me tickling the same ivories that Elvis did

It was fascinating to hear the background studio lore about the many greats who recorded there—like Elvis, who recorded more than 200 records there and you can actually sit and play on the very same piano he used.  Unreal. A few other studio-hit-makers include Roy Orbison, Johnny Cash, Willie Nelson, and Dolly Parton.

Our guide had us spellbound when he shared a poignant story about Dolly writing the blockbuster hit, “I Will Always Love You”. It was not written to a lover but to say good-by to her duet partner and mentor, Porter Wagoner, from whom she was professionally splitting at the time. He was very bitter about the break-up and didn’t speak to her for years. However when he was in the hospital with lung cancer, he asked Dolly come sing it to him one more time before he died. (Read more at www.countrymusichalloffame.org)

The Great Room at Fontanel

This was just one of many highlights during my magical musical day in Nashville. The amuse-bouche was a visit to the Fontanel Mansion, former home of Country Music Hall of Famer, Barbara Mandrell. The log cabin, measuring a mere 27,000 square feet, had been bumped down a log or two from its’ former status as The World’s Biggest Log House.

Last June the current owners, Dale Morris and Mark Oswald, who manage some big name artists such as Alabama, Kenny Chesney, and The Eagles among others, decided to open it for tours, led by storytellers and musicians.

The warm home is filled with family photos and both personal and country music memorabilia. Tours start in the Great Room (that can easily hold 200 people under the 35 ft. high cathedral ceiling) then meander through the bedrooms (Barbara and hubby Ken’s bed had a mirrored canopy) to Barbara’s master bathroom, which our guide claimed also doubled as her main office. To prove his point her he picked up her personal phone book on the bathroom counter which held not only her business contacts but also the numbers for Billy Joel, Naomi Judd, Dolly Parton, Willie Nelson, Morgan Fairchild, Oprah Winfrey and even President Jimmy Carter.

The two guest bedrooms share a bathroom because although the family enjoyed having guests they didn’t want to encourage lengthy stays. As we headed down to the massive pool atrium we were greeted with a cheery “Hi” from Jaime, a casually attractive blond who turned out to be Barbara’s daughter. Although it has been many years since the family lived here, this engaging young woman moved back to town to serve as the hospitality director for the new owners. She graciously took the time to show us a couple of her favorite spots and regaled us with amusing family anecdotes, since her goal was to “have us feeling like friends of the family” by the time we left. When asked who had impressed her most out of all the famous people that had visited the family, she quickly replied, “Oprah and John Stamos, because not only was he gorgeous but he taught me to do a back flip off the diving board. But I’ll always have a special love for LL Cool J because he was the first man who made me feel pretty.”

The Grand Ole Opry, then

Off to the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, to experience the country music story as told over the last 100 years. A new exhibit, Dreaming My Dreams: The Journey Continues-1960’s to the Present is the follow-up to the crowd-pleaser, Sing me back home: The Journey Begins-Folk Roots to the 1960’s. Plan on spending at least a couple of hours to enjoy all the rare video clips, sound recordings and showcases filled with the artists’ stage costumes, musical memorabilia and personal artifacts, ranging from scribbled song lyrics to pimped-out cars. I even spied a four-necked steel guitar that “my friend” Barbara Mandrell, played onstage as a child.

If you need to bring home any prezzies or want to pick up some cd’s, stop in at the humongous gift store which has many country music compilations that are perfect for a novice country music listener. The store offers a wide variety of souvenirs, including the wildly addictive candy treat, Nashville’s own “ColtsBolts” a sooper rich blend of chocolate, peanut butter and almonds.

Next up is a quick detour over to the historic Ryman Auditorium a.k.a. “The Mother Church of Country Music” by Nashvillians. It was originally built in 1892 as the Union Gospel Tabernacle. In 9014, it morphed into an acoustically perfect performance hall, the Ryman Auditorium, where Houdini, Mae West, Bob Hope, Elvis, Katherine Hepburn and many other famous figures graced the stage. Then from 1943-1974 it became home to the legendary Grand Ole Opry. This National Historic Landmark is open for tours during the day and hosts a variety of special events and concerts at night.

The Grand Ole Opry, now, starring Keith Urban

Finally it was time to head to take my seat at the world’s longest-running radio broadcast, the Grand Ole Opry. I was really starting to get excited, particularly after I read the evening’s line-up of stars. There was Brett Eldredge (a major hunk) Connie Smith (the most recent Hall of Fame inductee), Mel Tillis (singer/songwriter who wrote “Ruby, Don’t Take Your Love to Town” -one of the few country songs I actually know) and then I my arms sprouted goose bumps as I came to the final singer… Keith (frikkin’) Urban! No wonder there wasn’t an empty seat in the house.

The format consists of four separate half hour shows which are recorded back to back with different hosts at each performance. All singers, from “up and comers” to music icons, receive a flat $100 payment, which was the reason the last host, Mike Snider shouted out in amazement, “I can’t believe I’m making the same as Keith Urban tonight!”

It was a magical evening and the perfect end to my day in Music City.

When you go:

Eat
Wildhorse Saloon – Put on your dancing boots because after stuffing yourself on some outrageously tasty BBQ (loved the hickory-smoked pulled pork and the fried dill pickles were outrageous once you get a side of ranch dressing for dipping) you can show off the moves you learned during the complimentary line-dancing lesson. And then, wait… is that our recording of “Can’t Help Falling in Love” blasting out of Wildhorses’ state-of-the-art sound system? Yee-haw, we’re famous.
Wildhorsesaloon.com

Sleep
Gaylord Opryland Hotel is the largest non-gaming hotel in America. I’m not sure if it has its own zip code but it does have close to 3,000 guest rooms, nine restaurants/bars, a luxurious spa, salon, state-of-the-art fitness facility, and three swimming pools scattered throughout the nine acres of beautifully landscaped grounds (complete with cascading waterfalls and a Delta riverboat cruise) all under the climate-controlled signature glass atriums. You can even choose a special wake-up call from your favorite country artist.

Scoul and mountains

Switzerland is renowned for its spectacular scenery, soaring mountains, fresh air and outdoor recreation.  What better place for a rejuvenating vacation than a country known for its healthy lifestyle? The Swiss are also renowned for their spas, luxurious amenities and vacation resorts.

The vacation opportunities and spas found in the canton of Graubünden’s Engadin Valley are popular with the Swiss but known to all-too-few Americans. Scuol, between the the Silvretta range and the Swiss Dolomites, is a place where mineral waters flow from community fountains. Cobblestone squares are surrounded by historic houses decorated with sgraffito, a technique of scratching a design through the surface layer.

Scoul fountain and square

Its curative waters have made Scuol a wellness destination for centuries. Switzerland’s prosperity and customary high quality has transformed it into a distinctive vacation destination with the finest of accommodations, cuisine, and spas.

Hotel Belvedere is Scuol’s grande dame hotel, perched high for a commanding view of the mountains and village. It is connected by a glass hallway to the Bad Engadin Scuol, a thermal spa that opened in 1993. With bathing, saunas, and a variety of wellness and therapy baths and treatments, it is the ultimate in relaxation and rejuvenation.

The Roman-Irish baths—Switzerland’s first—have extensive treatments that include a soap and brush massage.

The Lower Engadine an area steeped in tradition that has retained its culture and language. An area that was isolated before railways, it is where Romansch, one of Switzerland’s four national languages, is spoken. A remnant of days of occupation by Roman soldiers, Romansch is the language of less than one percent of the Swiss. It certainly isn’t necessary to be fluent, but you’ll gain a better sense of the culture if you learn to speak a few words with the characteristic zestfulness, like the greeting “Allegra!” and the toast, “Viva!”.

Hotel Belvedere

Scuol a place to try traditional local and regional foods like Bündnerplatte, a plate of alpine cheese, dried meats, and pear bread known as pan cun paira (pear bread). Engadiner Nusstorte, a nut cake made with walnuts, is another specialty that should not be missed.

The mountains and river gorges provide outdoor recreation with a spectacular view. There are over 600 miles of alpine trekking and biking along pathways marked with sign posts. The white water of the Inn River creates breathtaking rafting opportunities.

And, of course, winter means snowshoeing, tobogganing, skating, and skiing.

Getting there is a journey past the better-known tourist destinations and through magnificent landscapes, past soaring peaks and Engadine valley villages. It’s a short trip from Scuol to the 11th century Tarasp Castle, perched on a rock over 300’ high, and to charming villages like Guarda.

Switzerland’s only national park and largest nature reserve is also nearby. With strict standards for maintaining undisturbed plant and animal life, the Swiss National Park is one of the best preserved wilderness landscapes in Europe.  There are fifty miles of  designated hiking trails, and animal watching tours are offered.

A postbus ride through the Swiss National Park leads to a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Convent of St. John in charming Val Müstair. The main square in Val Müstair is where orders were given for the battle that led to Swiss independence. From there, if you like, you can even walk or take the postbus to Italy.

Check out this enchanting video to get a visual idea of Scuol:

Sunny days at the Hilton Hawaiian Village Resort's, Duke Kahanamoku Lagoon

The pounding jackhammers, electricians and the swarms of contractors have left the building; so it’s time to revisit the Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki on Oahu, Hawaii. Celebrating it’s 50th anniversary and a 45 million dollar renovation, this jewel of Waikiki awaits. The Rainbow Tower now features state-of-the-art elevators, guest rooms with floor to ceiling upgrades, and fresh, comfortable furnishings.

The Hilton is now the place to stay, play and enjoy Hawaii. This fully contained 22 acre resort, with a lagoon, and the nicest stretch of Waikiki beach also boasts five swimming pools; the only problem you may encounter is deciding where you want to splash in first. Before my afternoon swim recently, I had lunch at the beautiful beachfront Tropics Bar and Grill. Seated on the lanai under a huge umbrella, my table overlooked Waikiki beach and an expanse of powdery sand leading to an amazing shade of turquoise ocean framed by coconut palms.

View from Tropics Restaurant at the Hilton Hawaiian Village Resort Waikiki

Here at Tropics, Chef Jeffrey Vigilla, a local boy from Hilo, loves to put his spin on local favorites. Chef Vigilla has an extensive, impressive culinary background including apprenticing at the Hotel de Paris in Monaco, the Ritz-Carlton hotels in Cancun, San Francisco, Seoul S. Korea and the honor of being a guest chef cooking at The James Beard House in NYC.

After perusing the menu while I sucked on my blue “Hawaii 5-0” drink and snacked on some truly fresh poke, I decided to go with the Furikake Fish and Chips. Instead of using typical flour, this dish incorporates tempura flour to give the fish a light and airy coating, perfect for dining here enjoying the sunny 80 degree days in paradise.

Furikake & Beer-Battered Fish & Chips

I was fortunate to get this recipe from the source at the Hilton Hawaiian Village Resort, and with aloha, I will share it with you. Don’t let the simplicity of this recipe fool you, it is very, very good; “ono” as we say in the islands. For more information, reservations, and beautiful pictures, point your browser to www.hiltonhawaiianvillage.com.

Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Washington, DC (Photo provided by Mandarin Oriental)

I have wanted to experience a Mandarin Oriental property for a long time, and I finally got my chance in Washington, D.C. The hotel arguably offers the best views in the nation’s capitol, as it is situated by the Tidal Basin overlooking the Jefferson Memorial and the Washington Monument. Located five minutes from the White House and 12 minutes from Ronald Reagan National Airport, the property is sizeable with 53 suites and 347 rooms.

Mandarin Oriental Lobby (Photo provided by Mandarin Oriental)

Compared to most hotel lobbies I have seen in major eastern U.S. cities, the Mandarin Hotel lobby is enormous. It is a marble rotunda, which leads to the Empress Lounge with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out on the hotel’s 5,000-square foot Asian garden next to the marina.

I was lucky enough to stay in a Tai Pan Club Premiere Water View Room, a 484-square foot room with a king bed and a great view of the Jefferson Memorial. My room and bed were exceptionally comfortable, and the spacious bathroom contained a large soaking tub, as well as a separate shower. I especially appreciated the fun perk of a 15-inch LCD TV in the bathroom.

Mandarin Oriental bedroom (Photo by Melanie Votaw)

The bedroom contained a 32-inch TV and entertainment system, and there were three telephones throughout the room. I also appreciated the complimentary bottled water and the in-room safe that was big enough to hold my laptop. Of course, bathrobes and slippers were provided as well.

Staying in a Tai Pan Club room allows you to take advantage of the private Tai Pan Lounge and affords you discounts on spa treatments and meals in the restaurants. My card key gave me access to the lounge, where snacks are available all day, and hors d’oeuvres and cocktails are available in the evening. I ate my breakfast in the lounge as well, which included a small sampling of eggs, meats, and pastries.

The highlight of my stay, however, was my dinner at Sou’Wester, one of the property’s restaurants. This one is helmed by Chef Eddie Moran, and I recommend that you check it out even if you’re unable to stay at the hotel. There is a very reasonably priced pre-theater prix fixe deal.

Mandarin Oriental bathroom (Photo by Melanie Votaw)

I started with the chilled iceberg wedge salad, which included cherry tomatoes and smoked bacon bits with a buttermilk dressing. I’m not usually fond of bacon on salads, but these were not your ordinary bacon bits. The breads brought to the table were biscuits and cornbread with honey butter. If you order this wedge salad, be sure to have a bite of cornbread in between bites of the salad. The sweetness of the cornbread nicely complements the flavors of the herbed buttermilk dressing.

For my entrée, I chose the grilled rock Cornish chicken “under a brick,” which consisted of olive oil braised spinach, smashed and fried potatoes, and Meyer lemon-rosemary jam. It was a relatively simple dish that was expertly prepared. For dessert, I was treated to homemade sorbets, and I enjoyed all of my dinner with my choice of wine, poured for me by the restaurant’s sommelier.

The Mandarin Oriental’s other dining option is City Zen, a Five Diamond AAA restaurant by James Beard Award winner, Chef Eric Ziebold. The restaurant’s Executive Pastry Chef, Matthew Petersen, has appeared on television’s “Top Chef Just Desserts.”

The hotel also has a 10,500-square foot spa with eight treatment rooms, amethyst steam rooms, sauna, ice fountain, vitality pools, cold plunge pool, 50-foot indoor heated swimming pool, and a waterside fitness center. A golf course is just five minutes away from the property.

Meeting facilities include an 8,300-square foot Grand Ballroom with 18-foot ceilings and no pillars, as well as several other rooms for large or small gatherings. While I did not have a reason to use these facilities, I was impressed to learn that a car can be driven into a loading bay in order to unload presentation equipment. Of course, a business center is also on the premises, and wireless Internet access is available throughout the hotel.

The Mandarin Oriental is a beautiful property that gives you a sense of spaciousness both indoors and on the grounds that is hard to find in congested cities. The service was stellar, and I cannot imagine wishing for more. My stay was a pure pleasure from beginning to end.

Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Washington, DC

1330 Maryland Avenue, SW

Washington, D.C. 20024

(202) 554 8588

The front window of Androuët fromagerie in the 7th

By Stefanie Payne

The culinary horizon in Paris is just different than that which is found in the rest of the world—the grey rooftops might as well be illustrations from the pages of the most beautifully illustrated book of Hansel and Gretel ever penned.  In no time or place was that fact more evident to me than when I walked on to a culinary walking tour on Paris’ Rive Gauche (Left Bank) as an afterthought on one drizzly afternoon.

This part of Paris is where the uber-fashionable shop for gourmet specialties to serve at their dinner parties.  This is where culinary dreams are realized.  This is where my palate would be cleansed with treats so indulgently pure, that I understood—again, and for the umpteenth time—why Paris is regarded as food mecca.

Le Comptoir des Saints Pères, formerly Michaud

The experience was four hours long—and four legendary specialty shops wide.  We began at Le Comptoir des Saints Pères, formerly Michaud, a tiny cafe with a long history.  A favorite of Hemingway and Fitzgerald who spent long days and nights writing here because it was less expensive than other cafés in the area.  In the time it took to get and sugar my café (espresso) and down it in one glug, the rest of the group of eight people were there.  And then our guide showed, emerging from the corner with a skip in her step and a smile on her face.  Each of us shook hands and walked on while she began to describe the significance of having a food tour in the 7^th arrondissement.  It is, after all, considered the chicest neighborhood in all of Paris.

Kayser Artisan Boulangerie (Bakery) in St. Germaine, Paris

Not five minutes later we passed one of my favorite cafés on earth, (La Palette next to L’Ecole des Beaux-Arts where I once studied,) and found ourselves wiping the rain from our feet on the welcome mat of Kayser: boulangerie extraordinaire. Kayser was relatively normal by American standards.  Plenty of pre-packed salads, sandwiches and the like for busy Parisians to pick up on their “lunch hour” (any hour, really) and to the right, a counter designated solely to bread sales.  We learned that Kayser had (more than once) earned the honor of creating the “Best Baguette” in Paris.  Our guide snatched up two baguettes, one standard, one artisan, and we stepped out of the door and walked on down the street.  She stopped and pulled one baguette out of her bag and cracked it at the center, like you might do to a Dungeness crab leg before slurping the meat from the cavity.  We looked on, as she cracked the second (the “real”) baguette.  It bent slowly like hardened caramel being pulled apart instead of snapping abruptly like the first.  She explained the difference between them (outlined in my separate article, “Good Baguette, Bad Baguette,”) and we each tore off a section to taste.  The “good” baguette was gone in an instant, the “bad” baguette quickly became pigeon food.

Our guide works with Androuët fromager to set up a store-front tasting for our group

We walked on excitedly to sample another favorite food to all, also expertly crafted by the French—cheese.  We were at Androuët.  To be honest, I am not sure what set this fromageri apart from her competitors.  For what I saw was like most other cheese shops—miles and miles (okay, just fifteen feet) of cheese, individually wrapped and lining the refrigerated shelves.  We gave our requests. Soft, hard, aged, mild, brie…  and my request, cheese with Périgord truffles.  Apparently, that was a decadent choice, for one of her eyebrows raised and I quickly understood that this may have been beyond the budget for the walking tour.  “I’ll pay for it,” I said.  I didn’t care, I was desperate for my favorite food laced with earthy truffle.  She arranged for it.  They paid for it.  And later, the other guests said that this was not only the best cheese of the day, but the best cheese they had ever had. Ever.  I thanked our guide.  We tasted the most classic French cheese, Comte.  Young, 5 Year, 10 year… all distinctly different from the last. We could have stayed there for hours.  In actuality, we stayed just one.  Then on to the next.

La Pâtisserie des Rêves, the “Pastry Shop of Dreams”

La Pâtisserie des Rêves, the “Pastry Shop of Dreams.” It was. The pastries were decidedly French, while the ambiance was almost sci-fi.  It reminded me a bit of Tokyo.  Clean architecture and crystalline bubbles that dropped from the sky protected these bright and shiny desserts that looked like baubles from a Tiffany store window at spring time. These heavenly, colorful, inedible things I thought!  I can’t even recall what we ordered or ate because the experience of seeking and selecting desserts from the glass cases almost out-shined to food. But in review, I recall the pastries just fine, and they are among the most delicious desserts I have ever been lucky enough to feast upon…. apple fritter something or other, and flaky chocolate heaven in a cup.

Chocolate Mousse from Chapon

Our last stop was at Chapon Chocolatier.  To begin, we learned that Patrice Chapon got his start in his father’s attic, and then soared on to make ice cream for the Queen of England.  Not bad for a handsome young strap from old Paris. His chocolates stood out most notably because of his use of innovative ingredients—wasabi, rosemary, and some spice I had, I think, never heard of.  I swallowed each bite as I viewed a large photo on the wall of dress made entirely of chocolate that I had heard of, showing at the 16th annual Salon du Chocolat in Paris.  Ruminating in the room was the impact of food on fashion, on the neighborhood, and the history of Parisian culinary pursuits and how they effected the forward launch of things to come.  We were sent off on foot with a paper cone filled with chocolate mousse.  We walked to a corner and entered a locked courtyard where we ate it under a beautiful oak tree that shrouded us from the rain.

Model Irene Salvador wears dress constructed entirely of chocolate made by Chapon, for the 16th Salon du Chocolat in Paris

As we said our goodbyes, something occurred to me.  I rarely join guided tours, absurdly thinking that it takes away from the “authentic” finds that strike someone on travels abroad.  But I am so glad I went… not only did it really enhance my trip, but also taught me my tour style: demure and informative, small groups, inspired guides, pockets of a city, and a desire to learn about secret treasures from people who really know—and want to teach—the qualities that make their region so special. I still think about that day often. And always think of how special Paris really is in all of her mind-blowing ways, and above all, insanely delicious is the food that almost personifies a region.

The Tour Operator: Context

Context Walking Tours (Multi-City)  |  Context Travel on Facebook

The Places

Tel: 01 40 20 09 39

Boulangerie Kayser‎

La Pâtisserie des Rêves
93 Rue du Bac
75007 Paris, France

Chocolat Chapon‎

Beautiful Singapore

By Norman E. Hill

Today, Singapore is an integral, prosperous part of Asia known as the Pacific Rim. This island state has about 4.5 million population (including about 3.6 million full-time citizens), comprised of about 77% Chinese ethnicity, 15% Malaysian, and 8% Indian.  A considerable portion of its land, around 20%, has been reclaimed from the ocean since the 1960s.  Even so, space is tight.  Most of its population live in apartments.  However, these are modern, functional apartments—call it Western-style in the best sense.

Primarily, the business of Singapore is just that: business.  In fact, it exists as the banking, finance, high-tech electronics and manufacturing center to the world.  In 2005, based on shipping tonnage, the port of Singapore was the world’s largest and busiest.

Its population is very well educated, and all ethnic groups seem to work together harmoniously.  While Malay is the national language, English is the first language of administration and communication.  There is a local colloquial dialect called Singlish, seemingly combining many elements of American English.

What to See

Many hotels in Singapore are new and ranked as “world class”.  Recently, the Ritz Carlton hotel in the city was considered to have the “world’s sexiest bathrooms”.  Touring those bathrooms will undoubtedly leave you in full agreement with that assessment.  Or for a more colonial ambiance, seek the world famous Raffles Hotel, where you will find fine dining, and the well-preserved charm of Raffles’ restaurant and bar (renowned for its “Singapore Sling” cocktail).

Marina Bay Singapore

Tourism is not the country’s largest industry, but it is significant and there are a variety of landmarks and sites for visitors to explore… such as the historic National Museum of Singapore.  It includes descriptions of Japanese World War II brutality, and how Singapore’s fortunes fell and rose again afterwards.  Then, on to the Harbor of Singapore, a stunning place always, specifically at night.  Its lit-up skyscrapers compare very favorably with those of Manhattan or another densely populated, tiny island, Hong Kong.  Boat tours day or night are available to travel all around the harbor.

On the docks, many new developments have occurred.  Restaurants and boardwalk entertainment are available for tourists interested in nightlife.  Extensive landfill projects have made it feasible to provide alternatives to busy, bustling daytime activities.  Legalized gambling with several new casinos started in 2005.

Singapore Airlines flies direct nonstop from several west coast U.S. cities, and eastward from inland cities across Europe, and there connecting east to Singapore. Its Changi Airport is consistently ranked as one of the world’s finest.

Government

The government of Singapore should still be considered authoritarian.  Dissent seems to be tolerated up to a point, but public speech is still limited.  Free elections have been held in recent years, and there are at least two political parties.

Lee Yuan Kew was Prime Minister of Singapore from 1965-1990, and, if benevolent to some extent, was still a defacto dictator.  Reportedly, he once described his country as a “guided democracy.”  He retired as prime minister in 1990 and all indications are that he has voluntarily relinquished his authority.

Therefore, today, the country seems a safe location for foreign investment.  Its business- friendly environment evidently influenced wealthy Hong Kong residents to move considerable capital over to Singapore, after the Communist Chinese takeover in 1997.

History of Singapore

Like the U.S., the country is indeed a “nation of immigrants.”  The British took over the island in the early 1800s, when it was a virtually uninhabited jungle.  They recruited a host of laborers from mainland China, to help build a settlement along a potentially great harbor.  Later, Malaysians and Indians also were recruited.  Initially, the British kept these ethnic groups separate to serve their own interests.

As the island grew and prospered as a trade center, it was designated a crown colony of the Empire.  Singapore had its share of colonial trappings, such as British race courses and the Raffles Hotel.

The Japanese attacked and invaded the country in late 1941 into early 1942. From 1942-1945, the Japanese occupation of Singapore was brutal to an extreme.  Not only scores of British war prisoners perished in camps, but Singapore residents (especially the overseas Chinese immigrants) were subject to widespread massacres.

After World War II, Singapore resumed its status as a British colony. It became self-governing in 1959.  After some Communist threats, an independent nation of Malaysia, including Singapore, was formed in 1963.  However, the rest of Malaysia felt considerable resentment towards the Chinese majority in Singapore.  Problems climaxed two years later, when Singapore was expelled from the Malaysian Federation and was left to function on its own.

In 1965, now independent and responsible for its own well-being, Singapore truly fit the bill of the “third world hellhole” described in the London musical.  Unlike the rest of Malaysia, the country had no natural resources, such as rubber or tin.  The Singapore harbor had been neglected for decades and was run down and polluted.

Prime Minister Lee saw that his nation’s sole resource was its people.  Therefore, he set out to increase the population’s level of education.  By draconian measures, the harbor and environment in general were cleaned up.  Systematic landfill programs were also started. Lee’s aim was to promote Singapore as a banking and business center.

From 1965 to the present, Singapore has pulled itself up by the proverbial bootstraps to achieve the status of an economic power house.  It trades actively with other Pacific Rim countries, the U.S. and Europe.  It has reasonably good relations with Malaysia, the nation of 20 million from which it was cast out 40+ years ago.  Because of the state of the world in general, and the fact that the western tip of Indonesia and 200 million Muslims are only 90 miles away, Singapore understandably maintains a defense force.

To summarize, the city/state of Singapore is a comfortable place in which to do business and a fascinating place to visit!

Chief Luciano Pellegrini, Valentino Las Vegas

I walk with my head tilted back and looking up, even spinning around to see it all; appearing as if a rube in New York City but in actuality, this is flat Las Vegas, Nevada.  The expansive ceiling above me is masked as a blue sky day and it is so realistic that I mistake a recessed light for the arc of a bird’s wing, if only briefly.  Walking alongside the Venetian Grand Canal replete with singing gondoliers, I am pulled into the experience of an array of shops, restaurants, performance venues, and casinos of what makes up the Palazzo-Venetian hotel complex.  After passing the human crush and hucksters on the Strip outside, I gladly succumb to the marvels of the Palazzo Hotel and the Venetian nested alongside.  As a mariner, it is as if gigantic cruise ships are breasted together in a landlocked moorage and provide all amenities for sustenance of passengers.

Four days at the Palazzo Hotel for a conference includes behind the scenes dining and drinking experiences designed to help me experience a month of residency.  I tasted the scrumptious one pound meatballs prepared at the Lavo restaurant, tasted fresh seafood at the AquaKnox, and enjoyed a multi-course offering of the best fare of Valentino restaurant served by Chief Luciano Pellegrini.  Valentino is sister restaurant to multiple James Beard Award-winner Piero Selvaggio’s world-renowned Valentino in Santa Monica, California.

I soon get going on my usual Mancation focus.  I notice things a man on vacation will enjoy outside of the casino and food or stage performances taken in with the better half of your team.

Wendy Hodges, Fusion Bar mixologist in the casino of Palazzo Hotel

Fusion Bar is a custom mixology bar located in the casino of the Palazzo Hotel.  The deal here is you think of something and they make a mixed drink that mimics the thought.  For example; mention vanilla, basil, and cucumber.  Not a likely combination, but back comes a mixed drink that involves these flavors and pleases everyone.  This is also an infusion bar, where flavors and fruits are blended over time in a container used for mixing purposes.  Wendy Hodges is the international competition mixologist that we found entertaining and she can mix an original Mai Tai from San Francisco plus tell interesting stories.

Don Julio tequila tasting at Canonita

Las Vegas is about adult entertainment and this also means fine spirits.  At Taqueria Canonita, I got to do a tequila tasting of premium Don Julio varieties, and scoop my fill of a fabulous guacamole.  Preparing the pallet for the next pairing means double up on the chips –  no washing away the taste here as in wine tasting, just eat and drink.  Following the tasting was a flaming shrimp dish tasting too good for words prepared by Executive Chef Reed Osterholt.

Reed Osterholt, Executive Chef, Canonita, prepares a tasty shrimp dish

At the end of my stay, I realized that I never had the time or inclination to leave the Palazzo Hotel.  Everything necessary to entertain me was here, as on a cruise ship, except the tour of the ship’s bridge with the Third Mate suffering my presence.  Once I remembered my cramped space on the cruise ship and its lacking internet in the cabin, I tuned in my favorite evening business show in my luxury Palazzo suite and temporarily forgot about my love of the sea.