In my email box this morning was notice that this dormant blog has a new follower. It was reason enough to post again – even though my travel has been almost nil this year except for a wonderful trip to NYC for the annual American Society of Journalists and Authors Conference at the end of April.

 It’s an event I look forward to every year – three or four days with my writing peeps, including a vibrant board of directors. Plus the joy of being in the Big Apple. Each year I factor in extra time for sightseeing, and although I promise myself to venture out of Manhattan, there are always places that call me.

 This year it was the fabulous New York Public Library where the featured exhibit was “The ABCs of It: Why Children’s Books Matter.” As a book lover ever since I can remember, I was mesmerized by the number and quality of books that have transcended time. “Goodnight Moon;” “Alice in Wonderland;” “Where the Wild Things Are” – and hundreds more favorites through the years fill room after room. Their original manuscripts and first editions are exhibited along side original drawings and drafts. Notes and comments from the authors filled the margins along with evolutions of illustrations that morphed into those that eventually made it into print.

 In the interactive exhibit, Alice’s head rises from normal level to at least 10 feet-high on a neck composed of books. I walked through a fuzzy Wild Things archway and watched the delight on the faces of children who must love books too. I traveled to a time when my mom read me a story every night until I was old enough to read one to her. And more recent memories of reading to young grandchildren flooded over me.

 I like to take credit for my Grands love of books, but I think it’s inborn. Jenna who began reading at three (no joke) and refuses to go anywhere without a book; Mia who struggled with reading in kindergarten and is now Ace-ing AP classes; Idan, the lone grandson, who devours books about his sports heroes; Jael who wanted a huge bookcase for her birthday to house her growing collection; Meg, whose love of reading runs a close second to her affinity for art. Who could ask for better?

But I digress. The NY Public Library building is a work of art inside and out. Even better, on a weekday afternoon it was crowded with visitors and members who came to see the New York icon and take advantage of computers, classes and millions of books. Don’t miss it if you’re in New York (in the heart of Manhattan on 5^th Avenue and 42^nd Street).

 My next treat was The Morgan Library (225 Madison at 36^th Street) that I’ve visited every year since NYC friend, Margie Goldsmith, introduced me. Prepare to be amazed at the beauty of the architecture and art – and the unbelievable collection with priceless pieces like the Guttenburg Bible, an autographed manuscript of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s the “Haffner” Symphony; a note from Steinbeck to a friend about his struggle to finish “this damned book,” (The Grapes of Wrath) and so much more. Ask the guard to let you peak behind the locked gates and see Pierpont Morgan’s secret stairway, the one he used to avoid seeing unwanted visitors, and don’t miss his library filled with extraordinary works of art.

The special exhibit I went to see was The Little Prince (Le Petit Prince) the most famous work of the French aristocrat, writer, poet and pioneering aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupery. I had to read it in the original French while in college and came to love the story and simple drawings, all sketched by the author.

His original manuscripts filled with derogatory notes to himself and drawings line the walls, and as much as I still love it, I was surprised to learn that The Little Prince is the most-read and most-translated book in the French language. It has been translated into more than 250 languages and dialects (as well as braille) and continues to sell nearly two-million copies annually with a staggering 140-million worldwide since its first printing in 1943. Every author should be so lucky!

Interior of “Asian” SCADpad with interactive walls

As a journalist, I get to meet the most fascinating people and visit sites I might never dream of, including multi-million dollar mansions. But one of the coolest things I’ve seen in 15 years of writing for a living is located in the Savannah School of Art parking garage in Atlanta.

If you love architecture, creative design, innovation, technology and just pure talent, don’t miss the open-to-the-public weekend dates in April and May (www.scadpad.com). You’ll be mine-boggled at what ingenious minds can produce when working together.

SCADpad is a community of three 135-square-foot residences on wheels (yep, that’s the size of a normal parking space in a high-rise lot). But every square inch has been re-purposed as an inventive comfortable, attractive living space.

The collaborative effort between 75 students from 12 disciplines in SCAD’s Senior Studies class and 12 faculty members has totally repurposed the bland garage into a park, a garden with an attractive NU box (nutrient box) with storage for gray water for the plants, a composter that supplies nutrients and more. Open workspace (The Rapid Prototyping Area) has a 3D printer designed by students, plus benches and tables for studying and a nearby parking rack for bikes and scooters.

Nothing goes to waste. Gray water from showers and sinks is used to water the garden; solar panels provide energy and lighting, and everything within the units is controlled by Apps created by the students. An added bonus: the views of downtown Atlanta are phenomenal.

Named European, North America and Asian, the three SCADpads are decorated to reflect the three areas of the globe where SCAD colleges are located. Each has a narrow and private outdoor space.

Interior of “European” SCADpad

Most of the accessories for the tiny residences were produced on the 3D printer that was designed by students. Pod residents can also use the amazing printer to produce other objects they need for their spaces. Everything within the community is multi-functional. Most have been made from recycled materials.

In the park, a large round basket serves alternately as seating, a table or storage. The base of the round table that unites the curved seating area that was designed for both lounging and perching is made from brightly painted tires.

Think you could never live in such a tiny space? SCAD put out the word to their students and had so many applicants for the week-long experiments – life as art — they had to hold a lottery for the one-week stays.

“The idea is to provide housing for Millennials who don’t feel the need for cars, haven’t accumulated ‘stuff,’ but want their private spaces,” says Victor Ermoli, Dean of the School of Design and Academic Services. “We want to demonstrate that you can live big in small spaces.”

SCADoad 3D printer used to create accessories for interiors

Ermoli proudly points to some of the innovative features. There are interactive pillows, wall coverings and cushions that light up at the touch of a hand or play music. Hand-designed wall, floor and ceiling tiles serve as insulation; windowpanes react to light and frost to create privacy — and more. Storage is tucked along the walls and on them and under the beds. Bathrooms are sparse, narrow spaces with the shower at one end, the commode at another and the sink in between.

“In the United states, there are 1.5 million parking spaces, five for every car,” says Ermoli. The SCAD garage has 109 spaces; eight are used for the SCADpad community. Our idea is convert some of them into eco-friendly living spaces that will revitalize cities and provide inexpensive housing.”

St. Simons Beach from King & Prince

I first visited Georgia’s Golden Isles (St. Simons, Little St. Simons, Jekyll and Sea Island) decades ago, and the siren’s call of the velvety marshes keeps calling me back. When an invitation comes to be part of a group sampling the new farm-to-table menu created by Chef Jason Brumfiel at the King and Prince Beach and Golf Resort on St. Simons Island I jump at the chance.

 My spacious cabana room in the historic section at the stately Mediterranean style hotel (www.kingandprince.com) affords a fabulous view of the ocean. I can simply open the doors for a walk on the two-and-a half miles of hard-packed sand outside my door, take a dip in the ocean or hotel pool or just relax on my private patio. The only ocean front hotel on islands, The King and Prince is a member of the prestigious Historic Hotels of America and named to the National Register of Historic Places. But Southerners who return year after year don’t need the accolades to enjoy the ambience and activities on the island.

Chef Brumfield with Sous Chef Mickey

Each meal created by Chef Brumfiel is a gastronomical experience. He has a new take on Southern culinary traditions with options for guests who are vegetarian or vegan. He’s also gone to great lengths to source the meat, fish and vegetables locally.  My favorites include the shrimp and grits entrée and Frogmore Stew – both prepared with assistance from members of the group.

Every evening we gather for cocktails at the King and Prince and sample new drinks like the refreshing Due West, a combination of rye whiskey, fresh mint, club soda and St. Germain liqueur and Whipped Sunset, an eye-catching concoction of pineapple juice, vodka and vodka infused whipped cream. Served outside, we welcome a St. Simons sunset, enjoy new-found friends and listen to the rhythmic sounds of the surf. What more could anyone ask for?

One morning we tear ourselves away from Chef Brumfiel’s fare for a sumptuous breakfast at Tim and Melissa Wellford’s Sandcastle Café and Grill (http://sandcastleatthepier.com) that just celebrated its 25^th anniversary. The country-style buffet features special casseroles and breads prepared on the premises by owners Tim and Melissa Wellford. Located steps away from the famous St. Simons pier and lighthouse, the Sandcastle is a favorite of locals and tourists alike.

Southern Soul Barbecue

Craving barbeque, we head for Southern Soul Barbeque (www.southernsoulbbq.com) where pulled pork, ribs, smoked turkey and chicken and all the “fixins” take center stage. We sit outside on picnic benches and soak up the barbecue and good conversation. The casual appearance of the diner belies its fame, because the friendly restaurant has been featured on the Food Network and in multiple magazines.

 Exploring the Island

Lady Jane shrimpboat

Choosing a favorite experience on the islands is a bit like naming my “favorite” child. But a morning aboard “The Lady Jane,” a shrimp boat-turned excursion ship docked in nearby Brunswick is hard to beat.

 Marine biologist Phillip Flournoy deftly reels in the trawling net and picks up the most interesting creature in the catch – a plate-sized horseshoe crab with a long pointed tail.

The species, considered living fossils, date back 450 million years. Once freed from Flournoy’s grasp, the intrepid crab makes a beeline for the sea alongside a tiny crab that uses runoff water to propel itself. As Flournoy tosses small flounders to the hungry flock of seagulls trailing the boat, we chant, “Go crabs, go.”

He chides us a bit saying, “Every creature is fulfilling its destiny as food for a larger creature.”

St. Simons Lighthouse

No trip to St. Simons is complete without a tour aboard Cap Fendig’s Lighthouse Trolley (www.lighthousetrolleys.com) that highlights places of interest on the island. Serene Christ Church built in 1884 had been visited by Presidents Calvin Coolidge, Woodrow Wilson, Jimmy Carter and George H.W. Bush. Constructed from heart pine lumber, it remains an active congregation with multiple services on Sundays to accommodate members and guests in the tiny 140-seat chapel.  The oldest graves date back to 1796, each with a tale to tell.

At the Glynn Arts Association (www.glynnart.org) that showcases local artists and offers drop-in classes, we make sand castings that turn out surprisingly well. Other drop-in classes in oils, acrylics, pastels, pottery and more are offered weekly for adults, with special classes for children.

Another day we climb on gulf carts and tour the King and Prince Golf Club (aka The Hampton Club) that is open to the public. The par 72, 18 hole course is PGA-approved and 11 PGA golf pros live on the islands – more than any other place in the U.S.

Situated amid the bucolic marshes where eagles, deer, osprey and ‘gator are frequently spotted, the club must be one of the most beautiful in the country. Because of the care the islands take to preserve the eco-system, biodegradable balls are preferred and have even been approved for tournaments.

The lunch special features beef from Bob and Susan Woodall’s Fort Creek Farms (www.fortcreekfarm.com) located between Macon and Augusta. The couple left the corporate world to raise grass-fed Hereford cattle when Susan inherited the only intact antebellum plantation of its size still in private hands. “Natural hormone-free feed is good for animals and humans alike, because the meat is high in good fat, low in bad,” she says. It’s also delicious!

With full stomachs and memories of sand and sea, we say our goodbyes, vowing to return to the King and Prince again soon. From November until February, the hotel will “polish its crown” with lobby and restaurant makeovers. In the meantime special programs and rates will definitely lure me back. The sooner, the better.

]]> https://travelgram.wordpress.com/2013/10/31/live-like-royalty-at-the-king-and-prince/feed/ 1 travelgram St. Simons Beach from King & Prince Chef Brumfield with Sous Chef Mickey Southern Soul Barbecue Lady Jane shrimpboat Horse Shoe Crab St. Simons Lighthouse Fran Kaplan https://travelgram.wordpress.com/2013/08/23/love-story/ https://travelgram.wordpress.com/2013/08/23/love-story/#comments Fri, 23 Aug 2013 14:02:47 +0000 http://travelgram.wordpress.com/?p=500  This is a far departure from my usual Travelgram posts that feature fun times and special trips. But I’m feeling more than a little nostalgic today, the 10^th anniversary of my husband Phil’s death. I still see him everywhere – in the giggles of our now teenage granddaughters and the mischievous eyes of the nine-year old grandson he never met, in his old denim shirt that I still wear, in his big leather chair, and most of all in the faces of my three children.

 Below is a shortened version of an article I wrote for Atlanta Magazine the February after he lost battle with that demon, cancer.

***

 “A life well-lived doesn’t end any more than music ends…

It echoes through time with whispers of beauty and grace.

If we listen, we can hear the encore with our hearts,

For the song plays on,

Just as love lives on.” – Unknown

My husband kept his Sony cassette player within arms reach during the unending hospital stays. Classical music wafting over WABE-FM sustained him through surgeries, radiation and chemotherapies. When he lost the final battle to cancer, National Public Radio broadcast the news of his death and a CNN banner streaked scrolled across the bottom of television sets across the country. The Atlanta Journal Constitution listed him among the “Notable Deaths of 2003.” There was even an article disseminated by the Associate Press. The man who never thought he accomplished much would have been stunned.

 He also would have been confounded by the scores of people who came to say farewell. There were former colleagues from GPTV and Peach State Public radio where he was the founder and director, Ham radio buddies, friends from every phase of our lives, the now adult friends of our kids who used to hang out on our den, neighbors new and old.

Some just hugged me, others wiped away tears of their own. Words were unnecessary. Their presence said it all. When a friend from my teaching days who had also lost her husband approached, I expected a life preserver. Instead, she threw me an anchor. “You’ll have to join my group,” she said. “We call ourselves the Merry Widows.”

Once the family left, the friends returned to their normal lives, the flowers wilted and the thank you notes were mailed, I was left in silence. Without my love and best friend, the house groaned, shadows jumped through the windows, the sudden glare from the deck’s motion lights spelled terror. A house once filled with love and laughter – even during the difficult years when cancer ruled our lives – became a tomb of memories.

I often think it’s still the little things I miss most. I long to see Phil’s eyes light up when I walk into a room. I miss his quick wit and off-beat sense of humor, his ability to think clearly in the midst of chaos; the man who never met a household project he couldn’t fix.

People told me there would be black days. They didn’t tell me that navigating life without him would be like paddling a canoe in the midst of a tsunami. The waves keep sucking me out to a black sea. A sentimental piece of music on the radio sends me reeling. A glimpse of an aging couple holding hands, brings quick tears. No one warned me I would lose my brain and my decision-making abilities along with my lock box key and check book register.

There are things you never know until you’re picking up the pieces of a broken life. I never suspected couple-friends would suddenly stop calling or that the husband of an acquaintance would sidle up to me and say, “If you ever get lonesome all alone at night, just call me on my cell phone – any time.”

When I emerged from a semi-catatonic state, I began making the phone calls. Social Security was first. With the swiftness of an American eagle they sucked out the previous month’s check. (There is no pro-ration, even if the death occurred at 11:59 p.m. on the 31^st of the month. Since the monthly stipend is paid in advance, they immediately withdraw the entire amount from your account.) In a weird quirk, they also coded my account “deceased” so there was no income forthcoming until they straightened it out three months later. I felt totally disenfranchised. Was I worth less now that I was no longer half of a twosome?

I miss everything about coupledom – quiet dinners together, evenings out with friends, a hand to hold, a warm body at my side during the difficult nights, a sturdy shoulder to cry on. I light a candle nightly to connect tenuously with him. I’ve had brushes with the five stages of grief but we’re not intimate yet. “Sorrow, anger and depression” — are all consuming. “Acceptance” is an oxymoron.

“You quickly learn who your friends are in good times and bad,” a friend said to me recently. No one ever told me that many would soar with the angles angels to ease my way. My children were (and are) my sustenance, my five grandchildren, dessert.

On the first anniversary of Phil’s death, we gathered to plant a memorial garden in front of the house. Near my mother’s Japanese maple stands another for my dad. Phil’s is at the apex near the sidewalk, much as he stood as the forefront of my life. Ten years later, whenever I pass by,  I can hear strains of music, and the song of his life echoes in my heart.

]]> https://travelgram.wordpress.com/2013/08/23/love-story/feed/ 6 travelgram Phil 2001 https://travelgram.wordpress.com/2013/08/19/the-top-10-must-see-places-in-atlanta-for-kids/ https://travelgram.wordpress.com/2013/08/19/the-top-10-must-see-places-in-atlanta-for-kids/#comments Tue, 20 Aug 2013 02:09:54 +0000 http://travelgram.wordpress.com/?p=483 If you didn’t get your fill of fun things to do during the summer, it’s definitely not too late to make plans for Labor Day weekend. Hotlanta is chock full of fun things to do with kids and you can turn a weekend into a Staycation and reap the best of all worlds — playing tourist in your own home town and sleeping in the comfort of your own bed.

If you plan on taking in a number of sites, purchase a CityPASS online  at www.cityPASS.com/atlanta ($74 adults, $54 children) that includes the Georgia Aquarium, World of Coca-Cola,  Zoo Atlanta, CNN Tour, Fernbank Science Center, the High Museum and more. In fact, purchase tickets online all venues to reap savings, guaranteed entrance and no waiting in long lines.

 1. The Georgia Aquarium – the world’s largest and right in our own backyard — features beluga whales, whale sharks, manta rays, penguins and so much more. Don’t miss the ATT’s Dolphin Tales that combines talented human and dolphins in a live show equally as exciting as a performance at Sea World. (Adults $40.45; Seniors $33.45; kids 3-12 $27.95). Note: Dolphin Tales is included in the price, but reservations are recommended for guaranteed seating. Plan to spend at least three hours exploring the undersea wonders. www.georgiaaquarium.org

2. The World of Coca-Cola – Even if you prefer that OTHER popular soft drink, Atlanta is home to the biggest company of its kind world wide. You can learn the legend of the secret Coke formula at the 4-D theater (3-D plus moving seats) and see the vault where the famous formula is secured. Taste over 100 flavors from around the globe in the beverage room and watch a fully-functioning bottling line. Little ones will love a hug from the 7-foot tall, cuddly,Coca-Cola Polar Bear. (Adult $16; senior $14; youth $12; 0-2 free with adult.) www.worldofcoca-cola.com

3. Don’t miss the city’s newest downtown attraction, the 200-foot-tall SkyView Atlanta Ferris Wheel at Olympic Park. Each 15-minute ride makes four revolutions in a climate-controlled gondola and affords spectacular views of the city and environs. (Adult, $14.45; senior and military $13; child, $9.10. Children under 2 go for free. Each gondola must have an adult riding with the children) www.skyviewatlanta.com

4.     The CNN Atlanta Studio Tour offers a real-time look into the global 24-hour station’s headquarters. (Adults $16; seniors and students $14, 4-12 $12) www.cnn.com

5.     The Children’s Museum of Atlanta for the under eight crowd is full of interactive, educational exhibits and programming and is fun for kids and adults alike. Tip: Bring bathing suits for the kids who will want to romp in the dancing fountain at adjacent Olympic Park. ($12.75 for ages 1-100!) http://www.childrensmuseumatlanta.org

6.     Legoland  in Phipps Plaza  is a hands-on site for budding engineers. Experience interactive rides, a 3-D movie, ceiling high climbing center and more. (Adults 13 and over $19.00; kids 3-12 $15). Be sure to check online pricing for special offers and family saver tickets.  www.legolanddiscoverycenter.com

7.      Zoo Atlanta – Located in Grant Park, the newest additions, twin male panda cubs, were born on August 3 (watch them in action from your own computer on the Panda Cam at www.zooatlanta.org). Don’t miss the gorillas at the Ford Rain Forest and hundreds of other endangered species. Kids will also love the carousel and train and parents will like the ability to bring a lunch and avoid concession stand prices. (Adults 12 and over $21.99; kids 3-11 $16.99; seniors, military and college $17.99; under 2 free)

8.     The Atlanta Cyclorama. Located Just outside the gates of Zoo Atlanta, the massive 360-degree painting depicting the Battle of Atlanta is 15,030 feet long and weighs 10,000 pounds. It was painted in 1885-1886 and has been in its present location since 1921. Visitors sit in the center in moving seats that encircle the enormous painting while listening to the story of the Battle of Atlanta that helped change the outcome of the Civil War. (Adults $10; seniors and ages 4-12 $8; 3 and under free) http://www.atlantacyclorama.org.

9.     Atlanta Braves. The Bravos are red hot this season (15 games in the lead at this posting). What says relaxation and excitement more than an evening at Turner Field? Make sure your Little Leaguers bring their gloves in case a stray fly ball comes their way.  (Tickets range from $10 for general admission to $30.) Easy access from downtown via Underground Atlanta and a shuttle bus to the stadium. www.braves.com.

10.  The Margaret Mitchell House at 990 Peachtree Street provides inspiration for budding authors who will marvel at “The Dump,” the tiny apartment where Margaret Mitchell pecked out “Gone With the Wind” on her manual typewriter in 1936. Furnished with pieces of the period, it provides a glimpse into the not-so-glamorous life of the Pulitzer-Prize winning author whose book has been translated into nearly every language in the world. (Adults $14; seniors and students 13 to 18 $10; kids 4-12 $8.50 (www.margaretmitchellhouse.com.

Bonus:

11. Stone Mountain Park combines Mother Nature at her most beautiful with the largest granite carving of its kind (even bigger than Mt. Rushmore). The commanding carving pays homage to the heroes of the Confederacy — Robert E. Lee, Andrew “Stonewall” Jackson and Jefferson Davis. Add in kid’s activities like Geyser Tower, SkyHike (not for sissies!), a climbing wall and you have a recipe for a wonderful day. With biking, hiking, swimming, boating, golfing and more, you’ll never run out of things to do. Check dates and times for the spectacular laser show and for park specials (Adventure Pass includes most activities (Adults: $28 ; Kids 3-11 $22 )  (www.stonemountainpark.com)

Ante Bellum Mansion

The first thing that attracted us to our Atlanta neighborhood was the meandering streets and old growth trees that shaded every yard and turned the suburban subdivision into a veritable forest. In the Spring, it’s a wonderland of dogwoods and other blooming trees; in the fall, a spectacular canvas for Jack Frost.

This summer, my beloved trees have turned deadly and each day when Mother Nature sends another storm our way, I quake at the potential of one or more that could come crashing down onto my roof.

My next door neighbor was one of the unlucky ones. Two healthy-looking 40-foot trees came thundering down about 2 a.m. one morning. Fortunately both fell across the street rather than on her roof and landed between a jazzy red convertible parked on the street and a mailbox, damaging neither. The county came out and cleared the tree from the street, but she was left with a hefty bill to cut down and remove the remaining debris that incidentally left long gashes in her newly sodded Zoysia.

A new couple down the street had barely been in their house a month when two gorgeous oaks in their front yard were struck by lightning. Not a good welcome to the neighborhood. Another had a lighning-damage pine that fell across electrical lines, leaving a portion of the neighborhood in the dark for hours.

But what can a homeowner do to avoid potential disaster? It’s hard to understand why trees that appear healthy and upright one day, fall the next, often with deadly results. Arborists blame the drought of past years that have caused tree roots to become so shallow and unstable they are no match for the continuous pop up storms and winds that have kept the soil over-saturated.

According to Chris Heim, a certified ISA arborist at The Davey Tree Expert Co., (https://www.davey.com/atlanta)  the first step is to hire a certified arborist to examine the trees in your yard and identify those that are potentially hazardous. “Regular check-ins for your trees from the arborist will ensure that they’ll weather future storms better too,” he says.

“There are five things homeowners should look for if they’re worried about their trees,” says Heim.

1.     Exposed roots or lack of soil near the tree’s roots.

2.     Wilted leaves, discolored foliage and/or a loss of leaves.

3.     Broken, cracked and split branches caused by the wind.

4.     Unstable or changing lean of the trunk.

5.     Pest infestations.

All these are cause for alarm and possible removal before accidents occur. However, there are things a homeowner can do to save their trees. “Thin the tree canopy to allow the wind to blow through it instead of against it,” says Heim. “Also removes potentially hazardous dead or weak branches.” Other tips include adding much to protect new sensitive roots and improve aeration and treating the trees for insects.

Walter Reeves (www.walterreeves.com), Atlanta’s gardening guru,  has a world of information on his website and radio program, (“The Lawn and Garden Show” on WSB radio 750 WSB and 95.5 FM). His advice for homeowners who want to save trees that are already partially out of the ground begins with digging a cavity under the raised portion of the root ball to allow the tree to settle back into place after its pulled to vertical. Next, attach a rope to a truck or SUV and gently pull the tree into position so it’s inside its original growing level in the soil. Then, stake the tree five to 10 feet apart until it is stable again. To protect the bark, use an old bicycle inner tube over the wires attached to the trunk. Leave the stakes in place for a year until the roots provide firm anchorage.

“Although defective trees are dangerous, not all of them need to be removed immediately,” says Heim. “Some defects can be treated to prolong its life. Regular maintenance can make a world of difference when it comes to tree strength during a storm.“

I definitely plan to take Heim’s advice and have an arborist come look at two very suspicious trees, both leaning toward the house. It’s only money, right?

When an opportunity arose to paint for three days in a row with noted watercolorist/teacher Pat Weaver (www.patweaver.net) in St. Simons, one of the most beautiful areas in Georgia, I leaped at the chance.  So did 24 others whocame from as far away as Boston to learn new techniques. For me, it was double-edged pleasure: a chance to visit the extraordinary area AND stay with former classmate Patti Ellis who now lives in Brunswick.

 The luxury of painting for a long stretch is new to me, but the Golden Isles — St. Simons, Little St. Simons, Jekyll Island and Sea Island — are old friends. It may be just a five-hour drive from Atlanta, but the minute I gaze at the velvety green moss-covered water and the graceful reeds that sway with the breezes on the Marshes of Glenn, the tension eases from my shoulders.  I’m instantly at peace with the world.

 The Marshes of Glenn that frame Brunswick are the “gateway” to the four islands made famous by poet Sydney Lanier. Once across the bridge named in his honor, we’re embraced by a canopy of ancient oak trees dripping with Spanish moss that transform even the most mundane home into a place of beauty.

 Just a five-minute drive from the bridge, the quaint village of St. Simons welcomes visitors with its collection of restaurants and eclectic shops where you can buy everything from a T-shirt emblazoned with a picture of a large mosquito aptly named “The State Bird,” to fine handmade jewelry, beachwear and more. On the left, the very presence of the St. Simon’s Lighthouse sets the scene to the atmospheric village center that ends at the pier where scores of fishermen line up, hoping for a good day’s catch.

Sitting in class at the Casino Building in Neptune Park, I’m torn between listening to Pat Weaver and peeking out the window at the pier, the spectacular water oaks and the energetic campers and beachgoers who cavort the park. But art pal Muriel Mendel, Patti and I are on a mission to learn some new watercolor techniques, so I tear myself away from the view to pay rapt attention to Pat.

 She lectures for an hour, talking about hue and value, how to “gray” the only three colors needed: aureolin (a bright yellow-gold), cerulean blue and permanent rose to create 100 unique colors. Then she outlines the “must haves” in every good painting: good composition, an odd number of objects, and most important, varying the value of the colors from dark to light. While talking, she produces a spectacular painting in 30-minutes or less (mine generally take weeks), and personifies that old expression, “A picture is worth 1,000 words.”

 I quickly discover that everything I thought I was doing correctly is dead wrong. I’m in big trouble for the upcoming individual critique of my two-flower painting in pale shades of pink to purple. Ah well, I haven’t come for praise, but to learn new skills. Now that I know the “wrongs,” I just need to learn the “rights” — and how to meld the new techniques with the soft, transparent watercolor style I love.

 Note: The class members are 0 for 25 on the “getting it all right” scale. Most of us have trouble with contrast and composition – choosing to add extraneous material instead of honing in on a focal point. Almost all of our paintings lacked depth and value, cardinal sins.

Because of the full-day classes, we don’t get in much sightseeing this trip, but spend our time painting and eating our way through St. Simons. If you love seafood, it’s all but impossible to find a mediocre eatery, but without doubt, Barbara Jeans (www.barbarajeans.com) tops my “favorites” list. Famous for crab cakes chock full of the tender white delicacy with no fillers and Chocolate Stuff for dessert (the actual name on the menu), the food rivals the finest French cuisine in New Orleans. You can even order these indescribable dishes online and have them shipped right to your door via next day air. Talk about a party!

More casual but totally delicious places, include Iguanas (www.iguanasseafood.com)(where I ordered a divine oyster Po-boy sandwich) and Palmer’s Village Café (www.palmersvillagecafe.com)(crab salad).

 One evening we go ultra casual Mudcat Charlie’s, one of Brunswick’s most beloved restaurants, conveniently located near Patti’s lovely home (this time I order soft shell crabs). Are you sensing a pattern here? Another night we join class members to mingle over drinks and seafood at Coastal Kitchen and Raw Bar (www.coastalkitchenandrawbar.net )(yummy shrimp and scallops) where we watch the boats glide in and out of the harbor and discuss the day’s lesson and our own clumsy attempts at using the flat angled brush Pat specified.

At seminar’s end, Muriel and I remain one more night relaxing around Patti’s screened in pool. We giggle as we critique her soft watercolors hanging on the walls. Few meet Pat Weaver’s strict criteria, but all are lovely and artistically framed. (And after all, isn’t beauty is in the eye of the beholder?) Somehow over the three-day period, I’ve managed to produce a decent lighthouse — admittedly with some expert brush strokes from Pat — but there is still much to learn. Greta can count on me for another 10 years, at least!

Too soon, we’re heading back to Atlanta, and while “real” work calls, watercolor techniques dance in my head and my new three-color palette beckons me to try, try again. If only I could order a serving of Chocolate Stuff from Barbara Jeans, all would be right with my world.

Beaches with code names, Omaha, Utah and Gold, were about a mile from the 100-foot salt bluffs where Germans troops awaited. But with constant assault from long range cannons in the well-fortified blockhouses, it must have seemed more like 1,000 to the young soldiers clamoring out of their landing craft.

 We visit La Pointe Du Hoc, the highest point located halfway between Omaha and Utah beaches where 225 Rangers, including my cousin, Lt. George Klein, were given orders to take the hill and the main road behind.  Three-thousand brave American boys met their deaths in the battle that ensued, but miraculously they accomplished their mission. Despite a bayonet wound in his thigh, George lived to return with all his limbs in tact and a chest full of medals.

 At the American cemetery at Collesville S’Laurent, the gray sky echoes our somber mood. Hushed visitors walk silently through row upon row of crosses, interspersed with a few Stars of David. All face the sea where they lost their lives. A heart-rending recording of the “Star Spangled Banner” and “Taps” pierces the silence and there’s hardly a dry eye at the memorial as the veterans of Korea and Viet Nam aboard our cruise ship stand at attention, blinking the tears away.

Welcome Aboard

The trip to Normandy was decidedly one of the reasons friend Patti Ellis of Brunswick, Georgia and I chose the Viking Cruise Line (www.vikingrivercruises.com), but there were many other places on the itinerary that excited us, including Paris. It’s a city I’ve dreamed of since my high school French teacher said “Bonjour! Comment alley-vous?” in a lilting voice that sounded more like a song than a language. Though I’ve forgotten more French than I ever knew, the dream of seeing Paris has never died and decades later, it becomes a reality.

 River cruises like the Viking Pride are designed for travelers over 55 who want to pack and unpack only once, eat at a five-star restaurant (onboard) three times a day and visit fascinating locales at a leisurely pace. It’s perfect for couples with different tastes, i.e., if the wife wants to shop and the husband is into history, it’s easy to go separate ways and reconvene at mealtime. The handsome ships stops at the edge of quaint towns that makes coming and going easy for all.

 Bleary-eyed at 6 a.m. after a 10-hour flight, we land at Charles de Gaulle Airport where we are transported to the ship, a 140-passenger floating hotel. Our cabin is compact but adequate with plenty enough storage for two women and daily room service.

After a buffet lunch onboard, we find our second wind and take a taxi to the famous d’Orsay Museum that boasts one of the largest collections of Impressionist paintings in the world. Meandering through the permanent collection on the fifth floor, we gaze in awe at the wide array of Monet’s, van Gogh’s, Manet’s, Cassatt’s and more, then linger in front of “Whistler’s Mother,” immortalized by her son, James McNeil Whistler.

 Over a seated dinner we mingle with the 140 other jet-lagged passengers who have come from nearly every state, Canada and Australia. Though there is live music and entertainment in the lounge nightly, our beds call and we slip into an exhausted slumber.

 By the next day we’re raring to see the City of Lights and join others for a bus tour of all the well-know sights – The Arc d’ Triomphe, The Louvre, Les Invalides (Napoleons Tomb), the Eiffel Tower with a stop-over at Notre Dame (and time for shopping or exploring the grand edifice).

The Louvre is next on the agenda – a museum so enormous that if you stand in front of every work of art for just three seconds it will take you three months to see it all!  The crowds are equally enormous, but our knowledgeable guide leads us through the crush of tourists for glimpses of Winged Victory, Venus de Milo and Mona Lisa whose elusive smile eludes me. All I can see above the throngs is the frame.

 That night, we sail toward the little city of Vernon and fall sleep to the soft hum of the engines and the lapping of the water against the side of the boat. Outside our large picture window, twinkling lights from quaint villages beckon all who pass.

Another highlight was a visit to Giverny, the home and spectacular gardens where impressionist Claude Monet lived and painted from 1883 to his death in 1926. It far exceeds our expectations. Monet’s large but unpretentious home is furnished much as he left it, and in the gardens that inspired him we spot numerous scenes from many of his paintings, including the famous Japanese bridges. Patti and I (art class buddies) sit happily on a bench and sketch for a few minutes before wandering the magnificent gardens and water lily ponds, a riot of color in early spring.

On to Rouen, the capital of Normandy, best known as the site where Joan of Arc was imprisoned, tried for heresy and burned at the stake in 1431 – a chilling reminder of man’s inhumanity to man. But the small city is full of charming half-timbered buildings and cobblestone streets that rise upward from the Seine luring us into small stores, particularly the chocolate shop known for “The Tears of Joan of Arc,” (almonds dipped in chocolate and covered in cocoa powder).

At the majestic Gothic cathedral that Monet made famous through his many paintings, our guide stops at “the pissing wall,” and laughingly explains that men used to relieve themselves in the corner, much to the annoyance of the priests. An architect determined that if they erected pyramids in the corners, their streams would run down on their feet and the men would choose another place. Voila! Problem solved.

 The last stop on the tour is the piece de resistance – the Palace of Versailles — built as a hunting lodge for Louis XIII and embellished by his son Louis XIV who turned it into the magnificent official residence of the Court of France. Words can’t describe the resplendence of the palace where the ceilings are filled with breathtaking paintings and gilded décor covers every nook and cranny. The famed Hall of Mirrors lives up to its reputation with scores of crystal chandeliers, a painted arched ceiling, gold statues and candelabra  — all reflected in the arched mirrors that line the walls.

Before saying au revoir to Paris, we leave the ship after breakfast and head to the Eiffel Tower, the last site on our wish list. It’s far more majestic than I imagined and though the ticket line seems daunting, we’re soon squeezing into elevators heading to the top. This is our first totally clear, sunny day and the view is breathtaking – again exceeding expectations. Beneath us lies Paris, the city of my long ago dreams come true.

Tips:

·      Adventure travelers: these river cruises are too tame for you.

 .      Book months in advance. Tours fill up quickly.

 ·      Watch the taxi meter. The ride to the d’Orsay from the ship: €20 (euros); the ride back: €6.50. Think we were taken? No matter. It was worth every euro.

·      Make online reservations to all the major sites months ahead and avoid the long ticket lines. Free tickets to lesser-known museums are at http://en.parisinfo.com/guide-paris/money/free-admission-and-good-deals/). 

·      Guard your purse or wallet. Pickpockets abound. Don’t sign any petitions or fall for the “is that your gold ring on the sidewalk trick.”

   In NY, you can be and do anything you want, whether princess or a pauper. A nature lover? Head to Central Park, a green haven for athletes or families who want to spread out a blanket and enjoy the beauty all around them. A museum-goer? The list ranges from he massive Metropolitan Museum of Art to more intimate museums like The Frick Collection or The Morgan Library. A barfly? No end of places to go. In fact, there’s something to do 24/7. And that includes eating.

Since my main purpose is to attend the board meeting and conference, there’s little time for frivolity. But each year I pick an activity or two outside the doors of the Roosevelt Hotel and the ASJA offices on Times Square across the street from the squiggly ABC news marquee and giant screen (also a treat to see).

 This year at the urging of a friend, I walked the short distance to 235 Madison to The Morgan Library – a truly unforgettable experience. Thousands of first editions of leather-bound books with gold lettering reach from floor to ceiling, a true writers and readers paradise. The opulent marble walls, mosaic panels and leaded glass windows are almost too much to take in at one time. Add the decorations on the ceiling inspired by Raphael’s Stanza della Segnatura in the Vatican, and the experience is to die for.

In addition to the masterpiece painting throughout, there is an original Gutenberg Bible, Pucchini’s first opera with notes on the staff lettered by him, a letter to a friend from John Steinbeck complaining about his “God damned book” that turned out to be Grapes of Wrath, a traveling exhibit by Proust with a cut and pasted manuscript full of hand-written scribbles. I could have stayed all day — and pretty much did.

Another highlight of the trip was seeing Holland Taylor (who also plays the sex-crazed mother of former star, Charlie Sheen, in the TV sitcom, “Two And A Half Men. In “Ann,” her one-woman show about former Texas Governor Anne Richards, Governor Richards was truly in the house. There was nary a sign of Taylor who played her role superbly. Add in the venue, the Vivian Beaumont Theater at Lincoln Center, and the experience couldn’t have been better.

Last year my extra curricular activities included the Frick Collection, a spectacular house museum once owned by industrialist Henry Clay Frick, one of few remaining Gilded age mansions in the city.  Masterpieces by artists such as Bellini, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Gainsborough, Goya, and Whistler comprise the permanent collection, and we were treated to a temporary collection of Rembrandt sketches. Today, the Frick Art Reference Library is one of the leading institutions for research in the fields of art history and collecting. Awesome!

I also took a long, expensive taxi to Ground Zero only to realize that reservations are timed and I should have made them online or else hang around for more hours than I had. None-the-less, it was goose-bump eerie to see the new structure rising into the skyline and walk into the small museum near the ticket desk.

As for eating. Take your pick from every ethnic specialty. From my mile-high pastrami sandwich to the elegant Pampano and Café Centro, the food is divine. And expensive. In fact, the cheapest things in NY are Mayor Michael Bloomberg’s new fleet of yellow cabs that are spotlessly cleaned and have set rates for destinations like the airport. Be very aware of black “gypsy” cabs. An example: a trip to Lincoln Center in a gypsy cab: $20; in a yellow cab for the return trip: $8.50!

One day, I promise myself, I’m going to the Big Apple just to play; to re-visit the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island; take a long walk in Central Park, see a Broadway play every night, eat different ethnic food every night and go broke happy!