Traveling around the world

In search of the Loch Ness Monster

2008-09-26T23:20:00.000-07:00

As soon as I landed in Glasgow this summer, I promised myself a travel itinerary that would be the envy of any adventure lover. Exploring the various tourist websites for the most exciting and adventurous things to do, I chanced upon a website of Loch Ness which came with an intriguing blurb ‘there is something in the water’. My curiosity was piqued as I read about ‘Nessie’, the legendary lake monster of Loch Ness. This was the start of my strange journey to Loch Ness to seek out Nessie.

On a bright summer morning, armed with maps and directions of some helpful locals, I started my journey with a sense of utmost anticipation. After travelling for about two hours, I reached Fort William from where I started down the A-82 road that leads to Inverness and hugs the northern shoreline of Loch Ness.

The best place to view Loch Ness, I was told, was the ancient Urquhart Castle. It is believed that St Columba, the great Christian missionary, stayed here in the 6th century on his way to visit King Brude. In fact, it is said that the lake monster was sighted for the first time by St Columba. The boat carrying St Columba and his men was attacked by the lake monster. St Columba pointed an admonishing finger at the monster telling her to ‘go back with all speed’. It is said that thenceforth, the marauding monster changed into a gentle beast and was affectionately nicknamed ‘Nessie’.

I made haste to reach Urquhart Castle in the hope that I might be lucky enough to spot Nessie. The extensively ruined castle is perched on a rocky promontory and offers a bird’s-eye view of the 23 miles long and one mile wide Loch. The castle, once a strong medieval fortress, was destroyed in 1692 by Williamite troops who had held the castle against Jacobite forces. The visitor centre offers an interesting road map to the history of the castle. Several shallow steps lead down to the castle tower and the pier where you can catch the Loch Ness cruise for all of 12 pounds.

On board the cruise ship, I scanned the turbulent waters with my binoculars, hoping to catch sight of the elusive long-necked aquatic reptile. Half-way across the loch, we were told that maximum ‘sightings’ of the monster were made in this area. But we caught no sight of the monster variously described as ‘a pale brown long-necked creature’, ‘a plesiosaur’ and a ‘cryptid’. The visibility of the water was almost zero on account of the high peat content in the soil and so we could not really see anything below the surface. There were several people in kayaks on the Loch but none had caught sight of Nessie. We alighted at Clansman Hotel that was conveniently situated about 100 yards from the Loch.

I was told that the staff of the hotel had seen Nessie one afternoon in 1996. I patrolled the shoreline and sat by the window of the hotel for several hours hoping to catch a glimpse of Nessie but the lake monster it seems was too shy to show up. There were several huge models of Nessie along the shore but no Nessie.

Was Nessie for real? I decided to crack this cryptozoology mystery once and for all and strode purposefully to the Loch Ness Monster Exhibition Centre in Drumnadrochit, a tiny village near Loch Ness. Nessie, I learnt, was sighted 50 times in 1934 alone and there have been about 4000 sightings since then. Film recordings of the monster were first made by Irvine in 1933 and Dr McRae in 1935.But of late the ‘sightings’ have become rare. The most recent sighting and film recording was made by Gordon Holmes, a lab technician in June 2007. Some sightings were later discovered as hoaxes and the photographs of the monster, like the surgeon’s photograph, were proved to be tampered negatives.

Several sonar studies were undertaken by research bodies but have yielded no results. Scientists believe that marine reptiles like plesiosaurs lived 160 million years ago and have been extinct for 65 million years. So if Nessie actually existed, she would have to be a Methuselah among beasts. Also, it has been argued by sceptics that most of the sightings have taken place in the early morning mist or late at night. Therefore, an element of human error cannot be ruled out. Whatever the reality, Nessie has attained worldwide celebrity status, making Urquhart the third most visited historical site, largely because of the mystique of the lake monster.

The cruises, submarine rides, Nessie exhibition centers, and Nessie merchandise have given birth to a remunerative industry. At the last count, the Nessie tourist industry had generated as much as $ 67 million.

Crestfallen, I returned to my rented apartment. My landlord, who knew about my quest for Nessie, quizzed me on my day. Seeing my extreme disappointment, with a straight face and a twinkle in his eyes he informed me that there were two sightings of Nessie everyday. Before, I could jump up in excitement and renew my search, he continued: "One five minutes before you arrive and one five minutes after you leave." That’s Nessie for you.

Part of the Dream Weave Walk Network 1998-2010

The Oxford Story

2008-09-16T21:36:00.000-07:00

Oxford is not exactly regarded as the hot spot on a tourist itinerary. It figures significantly only on the ‘must-do’ list for students attracted by Oxford University’s reputation for academic excellence. So whenever I try to describe the beauty of Oxford, I’m met with a stony silence and an expression that seems to say ‘Hey, its just another university’.

But for those of us who can appreciate a blend of rustic charm and history with overtones of academia, Oxford proves to be a dream destination. From the time you alight at the railway station, you can feel the old-world charm retained by the place. The cobbled streets, the topsy-turvy pathways, the hidden alleyways, the fairy-tale spires, the colorful baskets of flowers hanging outside quaint red-brick houses and, of course, the colleges that date back to the 13th century, all create an ambience steeped in history.

The best way to enjoy Oxford is to tour it on foot. The information centre at the station on Bond Street is equipped with a map of the city and various brochures on places of interest in the city. So armed with a map and a strong desire to explore, I strolled through the city examining its various treasures. But for those who would like to be introduced to the city by experts, the ‘hop on hop off buses’ with tour guides are the ideal choice. The Oxford City Council has also arranged for various Guided Walking Tours. You could take the ‘Pub Tour’ that takes you to various pubs, inns and hostelries where the likes of Churchill and C.S Lewis drank.

If you have a fascination for the dark side of life, you could take the ‘ghost tour’ that takes you through alleys in search of the city’s ghouls. Then for the more conservative, there is the ‘city tour’ of historic buildings and architectural wonders. There is a lavish feast for nature lovers as well in the form of botanical gardens and the Harcourt Arboretum. In the botanical gardens, 100-year-old cacti jostle for space with giant Victoria water lilies that are big enough and strong enough to hold a baby. The Arboretum in spring offers the quintessentially English bluebell woodland to explore and relax. For punting enthusiasts, the Cherwell offers the ideal ride that allows one to soak in an atmosphere of peace and tranquillity, even as one sips champagne and nibbles on juicy strawberries.

For the museum lover, there is a rich repast on offer. The Museum of Oxford brings to life the story of Oxford through artefacts and room-settings. For the youngsters, there is a display on Alice in Wonderland and its creator Lewis Carroll, who was in fact Charles Dodgson, mathematics tutor at Christ Church from 1855-98. It is said that he befriended the Liddell sisters (daughters of Henry Liddell – the Dean of Christ Church College) and spun out stories to entertain them. The ‘Alice’ of his stories is in fact Alice Liddell. Alice’s dresses when she was a child and the taffeta gown she wore for her wedding are on display.

The ‘Ashmolean’ Museum on Beaumont Street, with its wonderful collection of sculptures and paintings, is another must-see. The Egyptian section with its mummies and settings of the life and times of the Egyptian Pharoahs is one of the most comprehensive collections in the UK. The paintings section consists of the works of great masters like William Turner. Then, of course, there is the Bodleian Library on Bond Street. You might wonder how a library could be of interest to anyone other than a scholar. But this one is definitely different. The library takes you on a trip to adventure land as you explore hidden underground tunnels and passages leading to book stacks where over seven million volumes occupy shelves spread over 180 km. Here you will also find the medieval library of Duke Humfrey that is still in use. Famous scholars like Oscar Wilde and C.S Lewis studied here. It is in fact claimed that 40 Nobel Prize winners were scholars here and so were 25 British Prime Ministers. The first rotunda library in Britain, interestingly called the ‘Radcliffe’ camera, also adds to the charm of the city.

For history ‘buffs’, Crafax tower is a mandatory stopover. This tower was a part of St Martin’s Church built in 1818. It was demolished in 1896 to solve the mounting traffic problems. The east fa`E7ade of the tower is adorned by a church clock and two ‘quarter boys’ that hit the bells every ‘quarter’ of the hour. The more adventurous could climb the 99 steps to the tower for a bird’s-eye view of the ‘dreaming spires’ of Oxford.

Every nook and cranny of Oxford has a story to tell. The Oxford castle is a veritable cauldron seething with gory tales. The castle, used as a place of incarceration from 1071 till 1996, brings alive the city’s turbulent past. The 900-year-old crypt inside the castle echoes with the story of Anne Green who survived her hanging and narrowly escaped being anatomised by an Oxford medical student in 1650.

Interestingly, the hangman character of the Punch & Judy show was none other than Jack Ketch, the public executioner of this infamous castle-prison. The cathedral on the premises of Christ Church College has a story all its own. It is the shrine of Saint Frideswide, who lived a thousand years ago. It is said that Algar, an evil king, wanted to marry Princess Friedswide. So Frideswide ran away and hid in the jungle. When Algar pursued her, he was struck blind. Frideswide took pity on him and cured his blindness and attained sainthood.

The Oxford story would be incomplete without a peek into the academic history of the city. For almost 800 years, Oxford has been an academic mecca. Originally, colleges began as medieval halls of residence for scholars tutored by a master. Balliol and Merton, founded in the 13th century are the oldest colleges while Kellog College, established in 1990, is the newest establishment.

Surprisingly, Oxford even has one all-girls college, which is appropriately called St Hilda. Strangely, one doesn’t see scholarly type students with their heads struck in huge tomes. The campuses are alive with an atmosphere of relaxed low-key energy. The sight of students reclining under trees or next to a fountain or sitting in a caf`E9 enjoying their books is so appealing that it makes you wish you were a student here.

Christ Church College, apart from its academic reputation, is also popular because the first two films of Harry Potter were filmed on its premises. The huge staircase and dining room in Hogwarts is the formal dining hall for students of the college. The dining hall also finds a place in Lewis Carroll’s books. The narrow spiral stair behind the ‘high table’ becomes the rabbit hole in the book. There is also a portrait of Henry VIII in the hall. Henry VIII executed his two wives. Lewis Carroll is hinting at this gory story when the ‘Red Queen’ in Alice’s adventures is continually shouting "off with her head". So Oxford with its blend of academia, history and old-world charm is like a huge story within a story that the visitor lovingly absorbs.

Fact file
How to get there: Trains from London Paddington station depart for Oxford at regular intervals. A coach called the Oxford Tube departs from Victoria Bus Terminal for Oxford every half an hour.

Bus tour: Hop-on-hop-off buses depart every 10-15 minutes from the Oxford train Station.

Website www.visitoxford.org gives information about places of interest and tours on offer. Every college in the University of Oxford has its own site.

Part of the Dream Weave Walk Network 1998-2010

Punting on River Cam

2008-09-09T00:23:00.000-07:00

The very name ‘Cambridge’ elicits a reverent sigh from students and academicians all over the world. I felt no differently when I alighted at the train station in the University town of Cambridge in England on a bright summer day. As I walked into town, I was nonplussed by the hordes of students moving around the town and enjoying themselves- eating ices, cycling and strolling. My image of the studious Cambridge scholar with his nose buried in a ‘tome’ was shattered. A young student passing by conspiratorially told me that a summer weekend was celebration time and all roads on a summer day led to River Cam. As I looked around carefully, I saw several youngsters carrying picnic baskets and rucksacks. Following one such group I found myself on the banks of River Cam where I spotted boats gliding down the river at a leisurely pace. But the boats did not look like any boat I had seen in India. The boats were square-ended with a flat bottom and no keel and were propelled not by a paddle but by a 5 metre long pole. It looked a bit like a gondola but without a canopy. Intrigued, I headed for the boarding point and asked the boatman standing there if I could hire his boat. The boatman looked thoroughly miffed at my enquiry and loftily informed me that the boat was actually a ‘punt’ and punting was the most popular sport in Cambridge. Suitably chastened, I asked him if I could hire his ‘punt’. This resulted in a barrage of questions. What kind of punt did I want? Self-driven or Chauffeur driven? A 45-minute tour or a 60-minute tour? Did I want a Champagne and strawberry tour or would I prefer Thai food while I cruised on the River? Considering my punting skills were minimal, I opted to hire a chauffeur driven punt and decided not to bother with the food.

As I settled down on my cushioned seat on the punt the boatman informed me that punts were introduced to Cambridge as pleasure crafts in Edwardian times. Their origin went back to medieval times when they were used in areas of water too shallow for rowing a conventional craft. As we glided down the river, I saw that the banks of the rivers were shaded with lush green ‘weeping willows’ and students were sitting under trees with picnic hampers, soaking up the sun or reading a book. Locals as well as tourists cruised along in punts enjoying the sun and the flutter of a summer breeze even as they nibbled at strawberries and sipped champagne from fluted glasses. The ducks, moorhen and regal-looking swans added a natural touch to a scene that was the epitome of leisure.

As we cruised along my punt-chauffeur informed me that we were cruising on a 1.5 Km stretch of the Middle part of River Cam. This stretch, called the ‘College Backs’, is extremely popular as there are eight colleges and nine bridges along this stretch. The ride takes you past the sprawling grounds of famous colleges like Queen’s college, Clare College, Trinity, King’s college, St John’s college and the oldest of them all, Peterhouse college. At the upper end of the Middle River one emerges from under Silver Street Bridge into Coe Fen where one can moor on the common opposite Darwin’s House. This is the house where Charles Darwin wrote his famous ‘Origin Of Species’.

Out of the eight colleges on the river, perhaps St John’s College has the most impressive river frontage with its 19th Century Gothic revival architecture. In fact, with its turrets and central cupola, it looks like a wedding cake and has been nicknamed as such. My punt chauffeur pointed out a high ivy covered wall of King’s College that looked vaguely familiar and informed me that this was the site where the famous ‘quidditch’ match in Harry Potter’s movie ‘Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s’ Stone was shot. The picture-postcard beauty of the college was further enhanced by the ‘Bridge of Sighs’. The boatman swore that the bridge was a smaller replica of its Venetian counterpart. I was greatly impressed but when I searched the ‘net’ for similarities, I found that except for a similarity in the roofed construction this bridge had little in common with its Venetian forerunner.

During our cruise we also passed the King’s College with its famous chapel. It is said that that although the construction of the chapel was started in 1441 by Henry VI, it took 100 years and 5 Kings to complete this beautiful chapel. The stained glass windows and Ruben’s ‘Adoration of the Magi’, gracing the altar was breathtaking. The punt also glided along the sweeping lawns of Clare College awash with the bright colors of summer blooms. This college is said to have the finest gardens in Cambridge. Also nestled on the banks was Trinity College built by Henry VIII in 1546. It was designed by Christopher Wren and is known to be the wealthiest college in Cambridge. But this is not its only claim to fame. The college is also famed for having in its library the notes and documents belonging to its most famous son Isaac Newton. In fact, the punt chauffeur enthusiastically informed me that the grounds of the college actually contained the offspring of the famous apple tree that led Newton to postulate his famous laws. We also passed the Mathematical bridge of Queen’s College. This bridge, almost completely made of wood, is said to have been built by Isaac Newton in 1749 and is said to be built without the use of any screws or pins. This claim should be taken with a pinch of salt as the bridge was actually reconstructed in 1867 and again in 1902. Be that as it may, the fact remains that scientific geniuses as well as literary greats like Tennyson, Byron and Bertrand Russell were students of Trinity. In fact, the chauffeur proudly announced that there were 31 Nobel laureates on the Cambridge alumni. A glimpse into the lives of these great men left me feeling awe-struck. But like all good things my punt tour ended much too soon. I was back on terra firma but the punting tour undoubtedly is my most cherished memory of a day spent in Cambridge.

Part of the Dream Weave Walk Network 1998-2010

On the banks of Avon

2008-09-06T21:26:00.000-07:00

As a student of literature, I often wondered how Shakespeare, a playwright of the 16th century, retained his popularity in the modern world. I would spend hours in the library or on the Net hunting for titbits on the Bard. So in Birmingham for a holiday, I decided that my British sojourn would be incomplete without a visit to Shakespeare’s home. That was how, one fine morning, I found myself on a train heading towards Stratford-upon-Avon, a market town in South Warwickshire, England, situated on the banks of the Avon river.

Stratford has a tiny two-platform station painted white with a black trim. As I walked into this historical town, I found these colours replicated everywhere. I learnt that this obsession with black and white was a Victorian legacy. Victorians painted all their buildings black and white for no reason but that it made for a neat look.

Walking through the quaint old town, I felt I was in a time warp and had actually stepped into what was called the Elizabethan Age, so named after Elizabeth I. Arden Street, Tavern Lane, Eversham Road, Guild Street, Grove Road — the names of roads and lanes were reminiscent of the life and times of the Elizabethans. The Tudor-style timber house, bought by John Shakespeare, William Shakespeare’s father, on the Henley Street strengthened this impression. This house became the birthplace of the world-renowned Bard. Shakespeare’s Birthplace Trust has kept the Bard’s legacy intact.

For an entry fee of `A37, you are allowed entrance to the timbered cottage. As you walk into what was probably the parlour of Elizabethan times, you are welcomed by a life-like statue of Shakespeare sitting at his desk, quill in hand, as though penning his famous plays. Walking up the wooden rickety stairs, you find yourself in a room containing a canopied bed in red and cream velvet with a raised cushioned back. It seemed too tiny to allow complete rest. One of the guides told that the Elizabethans slept in half-prone positions.

The guide, in all seriousness, said that those who visited this room would become playwrights or actors. The most enchanting relic in the house was a glass panel that has signatures of literary greats like Thomas Hardy scratched on it. Kitchen, pantry, servant room, dining room et al replicating the Shakespearean era added to the old-world ambience. The lawns outside had an old mulberry tree, believed to have been planted by the great man himself.

One could also gain entrance to Anne Hathaway’s beautiful cottage on the Shottery Road, with its wavy roof, tiny windows and ubiquitous white walls bedecked with flowering creepers. This cottage has often been described as one that offers a beautiful view. And, why not? This was the place where the young romantic William wooed and won his wife Anne. Those interested can take the grand tour of all six cottages associated with Shakespeare, be it the home of Will’s mother Mary Arden or Nash Place, the house belonging to Shakespeare’s daughter Susanne and Dr William Nash, her husband. The tour also covers what is called the ‘New Place’ on the Chapel Street, where Shakespeare died in 1616.

The Holy Trinity Church, set within the boundaries of a sprawling, somewhat over-run garden, is another spot of great interest as this was where Shakespeare was baptised and buried. In fact, it is said that Shakespeare was rich enough to be buried inside the church rather than in the graveyard of the commoners. Wanting to absorb more of the literary flavour that Stratford had to offer, I decided to visit the Royal Shakespeare theatre, home to the Royal Shakespeare Company. The Company also runs two smaller theatres, the Swan, modelled on the Elizabethan theatre, and the Courtyard theatre.

The Courtyard Theatre was presenting Trevor Nunn’s King Lear that day. The show was sold out but luckily there was a last-minute cancellation and I managed to get a ticket in the last aisle. I was ushered into the theatre reverently by a severe looking theatre attendant. The stage was circular with two low-lying ramps for the entrance and exit of the actors. The consummate actors, the authentic costumes, the period props and the achingly sensitive music, together made for an unparalleled performance.

Perhaps the most impressively enacted scene was the ‘Storm scene’ in King Lear. The sound of the thunder rolling and crashing down the hillside, the torrential rain and the lamenting Lear appeared uncannily natural. Even the rafters of the roof were ripped out to create the elemental quality of the storm. The macabre quality of the scene where the Earl of Gloucester’s eyes are gouged out was chilling. After more than three hours of ‘catharsis’, you come out of the theatre feeling emotionally drained and yet philosophical about life.

For lovers of Shakespeare, the journey into the life of Shakespeare would be incomplete without watching a play by the Royal Shakespeare Company. But for the uninitiated there is ‘Shakespeareience’ — an indoor theme park that takes you through the life of Shakespeare without making the show academic or boring. There is also the Ghost Walk and Ghost Cruise for those with a thirst for the past. But, the boat-ride on the Avon, ice-cream vendors on the riverside and the ever-present McDonalds bring you back with a thump to the 21st century. That’s Stratford-upon-Avon for you.

Part of the Dream Weave Walk Network 1998-2010