Hana Bay, Maui

Hawaiian culture on display

Just a short, pleasant walk from our Travaasa Hana accommodations was the Hana Cultural Center which is comprised of a small museum and a historic one-room courthouse (built in 1871) exhibiting artifacts, though it is also still used as a court. The center, also called Hale Wai Wai (Hawaiian for House of Treasures), was established in 1971 to preserve and demonstrate traditional Hana life and the culture of east Maui.

Hana Cultural Center and Courthouse

Its exhibits are simple, but rich in the history of the town and the symbolism of Hana culture. The importance of community is an important aspect of Hana culture. It is inherent in daily life and evidenced in the museum by the poster-sized photos of Hana residents, past and present.

Feather staff

The beautiful orange feathers pictured above caught our attention, but we were stymied for a reasonable guess as to what it was. The friendly volunteer informed us that it was a tall staff carried by a herald walking before the king’s procession because if anyone’s shadow fell upon the king, it meant a death sentence. These were life-saving warnings to alert people of royalty approaching.

Artifacts in Hana Cultural Center

The center provided numerous displays, such as the one pictured above featuring some basic tools of early Hawaiian fishermen such as basket traps, octopus lures and fishing weights.

Kapa (bark cloth) made from plants — a valued activity in ancient Hawaii

We learned about the devastating tsunami that hit shore at about 2 a.m. on April 1, 1946, killing 14 Hana residents. A 7.4 earthquake in Alaska generated massive waves that moved at 500 mph toward Hawaii. The date was an issue because some people discounted the warnings, thinking they were April Fools’ pranks. The center has newspaper accounts of the disaster as well as the stories passed along by witnesses and their descendants.

News clippings and information about the 1946 tsunami

Hawaiian Culture in Action

One of the reasons we decided to visit the cultural center was that there was also a replica of a traditional Hawaiian living compound with a representative hale (house). Our timing was excellent as a volunteer at the center told us that there was a hale construction project currently in progress at the Kauhale O Hana living compound next to the center.

Kauhale O Hana Living Compound

Living compounds consisted of several hales used for specific purposes, such as a hale noa (sleeping quarters for the whole family) shown below, hale wa’a (canoe house), hale mua (men’s meeting quarters), hale kuke (a general cook house) and the hale imu (the men’s cooking house for cooking foods forbidden to women). The structures were built with open ends to allow strong breezes to blow through without knocking them down.

Hale Noa

There were five teams at five different locations who had three days to complete their hale building in a competition sponsored by a benefactor seeking to promote and preserve this important part of Hawaiian culture. The winner was to be announced at the Hana Taro Festival the following weekend, which unfortunately, we would be missing. (I haven’t been able to find anything online about the results.)

Student team members building a hale

As we walked toward the work area, the team welcomed us and talked about the project. We were very impressed by the level of camaraderie and teamwork among the individuals. In fact, that was an integral part of the competition — harmony and teamwork were elements on which the teams were judged. As one of the volunteers said — they could not be working on the project with any negative feelings.

Enjoying the camaraderie of constructing the hale

The thatched roof structures were made from rocks for the platform, ironwood frames, tied together with cords  (traditionally made from plants, but now man-made materials are also acceptable) and leaves or grass (more commonly used because of the sweet smell) for the roof.

Trees cut for use in building the hale

The team was working on gathering the materials and building the platform and in-ground oven for the hale imu. They commented that it was ironic that the building nearby, the hale wa’a, had been the victim of a fire rather than the hale with an oven.

Kauhale O Hana Compound sign

Of course, human sacrifice in ancient times is not unexpected, as mentioned on the sign at the entrance to the hale compound shown above. But I was struck by the notation that it was usually a favorite male cousin who was picked for the sacrifice. Good enough reason to avoid the relatives!

When we apologized to the hale builders for interrupting their work and I said, “Sorry we didn’t think to bring you guys some cold beverages.” The foreman said, “That’s OK. You came with a smile.”

Now that’s Aloha.

The post Hawaiian Culture in Hana appeared first on Traveling with Sweeney.

Anyone choosing to visit Manchester may do so to experience the cityscapes, the restaurants, the culture and of course, the shopping, but the fact is the city has much more to offer its visitors in the way of countryside and rural retreats to while away the sunshine hours.

Manchester countryside – Photo credit: Peter.Lorre on Flickr

If you find yourself in this Northern metropolis, consider booking yourself into one of the hotels in Manchester from Travelodge that will ensure a cost-effective stay that won’t break the bank. While there are budget-breaking boutiques available, avoid spending unnecessarily when there are affordable options just around the corner.

From your comfortable base, plan your days to incorporate exploring a little further afield than the city limits. While there are plenty of attractions and activities within Manchester to ensure your itinerary is full, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t discover more of what the north has to offer in the form of country scenes and leisurely walks.

Many of the towns that make up Greater Manchester provide a plethora of opportunities to enjoy a piece of rural life, including Rochdale, Bolton, Oldham and Salford. With over 500 square miles of countryside to explore, you can ensure that your days are filled with intriguing visits away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

The Towns

There are many historic towns and villages in the Saddleworth region that are surrounded by the Pennine moorland, giving you the chance to explore and appreciate the countryside at its finest. Visit the Saddleworth Museum and Art Gallery in Uppermill for a snippet of culture, or pack the ingredients for a picnic in the picturesque village of Barrow Bridge, near Bolton.

If you do choose to head towards Bolton, Smithills Hall is a wonderfully restored manor house that can be found among some impressive gardens to wander, or venture forth to Bacup near Bury, where you will find a 30mile art project, the Irwell Sculpture Trail that features over 70 pieces of art by local and international artists.

The Waterways

Manchester is famed for its network of canals, and there’s nothing better than taking a stroll along them on a crisp summer’s day. Leaving a lasting impression of the Industrial Revolution on the landscape, they now serve as a peaceful haven away from the hubbub of the busy city streets, perfect for a bike ride or a family picnic.

Take your pick from the 127mile Leeds to Liverpool Canal (the largest in Britain), the Rochdale Canal or the Huddersfield Narrow Canal as your route and enjoy some quality time basking in the serenity of these beautiful walks.

The Parks

Even our largest cities have parks and greens to help you unwind and recharge your batteries, away from the bustling city centre. With a handful of country parks in the vicinity of Manchester, you’re just a short drive away from a day out in amongst the trees – perfect if the weather allows. Haigh Country Park, in Wigan, offers woodland trails and towpaths while the Peak District National Park offers incredible scenes and picturesque vistas.

It can be quite astounding, what can be found on the doorstep of Manchester if you venture beyond the city limits during your stay. Base yourself at one of the hotels in Manchester from Travelodge and enjoy a snippet of the great outdoors, this summer season.

Destination inspiration and travel accommodation tips were brought to you by Travelodge.

The post Exploring the Great Outdoors: Manchester’s Countryside appeared first on Traveling with Sweeney.

Having never visited Sweden before I couldn’t wait to see what the West Coast had to offer. The Bohuslän coastline was our destination for the week. We booked our walking holiday with Inntravel, a company who specialise in cycling holidays and self-guided walking holidays.

Weather Islands – Photo courtesy of West Sweden Tourist Board

We flew into Gothenburg and spent the day exploring this pretty city. Sweden’s West Coast is known for its seafood with renowned French chef Paul Bocuse claiming Gothenburg has the best oysters in the world! Excited to try the city’s gastronomic delights we headed to a family-run seafood restaurant. We weren’t disappointed and tucked into a delicious meal of mouth-watering oysters, freshly caught mussels and delicately flavoured prawns. A fabulous start to our holiday. We stayed at the Hotel Vanilla a stylish converted 19th century building right in the heart of the city. The hotels ground floor café is famed across Gothenburg for its gigantic cinnamon rolls and home-made apple pies which of course we had to try.

In the morning we headed to south Koster one of two traffic-free islands on the beautiful Bohuslän coastline. A short boat ride from mainland Strömstad and we got our first glimpse of the northern Bohuslän archipelago. The Koster islands make up part of Sweden’s first ever Marine National Park.

Koster – Photo courtesy of West Sweden Tourist Board

We were feeling energetic so hired bikes and headed along the north coast to the scenic village of Långegärde and then south to visit the tiny idyllic island church. After parking the bikes we headed up the gentle incline Valfjället to enjoy the stunning views all across south Koster and over to nearby north Koster the smaller of the two islands. Back on the bikes we cycled along the flat winding lanes to the sleepy fishing hamlet of Breviks Hamn. The perfect spot for a picnic of fresh langoustine prawns, crusty bread and a glass of wine (or two). A leisurely cycle back to the hotel and we passed a cluster of charming traditional red and white wooden houses. After an outstanding evening meal of locally-produced food at Koster Garden it was time to retire to our waterfront hotel, Ekenäs Hotell and enjoy the views over the Koster fjord with a glass of chilled white wine.

Day 4 began with a walk into Långegärde to catch the ferry across to north Koster. This unspoilt little island is just over 4km from one end to the other and has a number of well-defined paths to explore. The trails took us past secluded bays and across fragrant heather-strewn outcrops. After a memorable day’s walking we returned to south Koster for dinner. The next day we moved on from south Koster to the colourful fishing village of Fjällbacka our location for the next three nights. Our charming guesthouse Bryggan Fjällbacka had a restaurant, pub, seafood bar, coffee shop and even a piano bar! Another mouth-watering meal of fresh seafood straight from the Skagerrak Strait enjoyed overlooking the sea. Bliss.

Fjällbacka – Photo courtesy of West Sweden Tourist Board

The next morning we headed to the nearby Veddö Nature Reserve, the peninsula sits north of Fjällbacka. A stunning mix of meadows, leafy woodland and granite outcrops. We climbed up to one of the highest points and were treated to a stunning panoramic view of the enchanting Fjällbacka archipelago – a view I will never forget! Early evening we caught the boat back to mainland Fjällbacka and relaxed on our hotel terrace watching the sunset over the harbour.

Our final full day was spent on Väderöarna which translated means the Weather Islands, a marine reserve situated on the archipelago’s outer edge. A short 30 minute boat ride away the islands are the most westerly point in Sweden. We couldn’t believe our luck when we spotted seals sunbathing amongst the rocks – a definite highlight of our trip. There is a short way-marked trail on the islands which took us around 1 ½ hours to complete. The old pilot’s lookout tower dominates the area and adds to the atmosphere of this intriguing collection of islands. Strolling around we spotted an astonishing range of wildlife and birds. The spectacular scenery on Väderöarna makes it somewhere we will certainly be returning and next time I would plan to spend a night on one of these enthralling islands.

Author Kate Hickson is a freelance travel writer, food and white wine lover.

This is a sponsored guest post brought to you by Kate Hickson from her recent Inntravel holiday.

The post Sweden’s Serene West Coast appeared first on Traveling with Sweeney.

When Mr. TWS and I arrived in Maui last month, we looked forward to a chance to see much of the island since we’d be staying in four different locations on the west and east coasts. We had already been feeling the Aloha on Hawaiian Airlines from San Francisco with friendly flight attendants and a complimentary rum punch before landing in Honolulu, followed by more friendly airport and rental car personnel. Would the resorts we’d be staying at be as friendly? Would everyone in Maui be friendly?

During a period of eight nights, we stayed two nights each in these Maui resorts.

Grand Wailea Resort

King Kamehameha statue at entrance of Grand Wailea

As we drove up to the entrance of the Grand Wailea Resort, we first noticed the gorgeous flowers and the sound of water. As we realized later during a tour of the Grand Wailea art collection, we were hearing the waterfall by the King Kamehamaha statue at the entrance. We were welcomed with orchid leis by a smiling employee in the lobby and escorted to our room by a helpful and informative bellman.

Our room was on the 9th floor of the Molokini wing with a fantastic view of the ocean, lush grounds, winding pathway, and pool below.

View from our Molokini Wing room at Grand Wailea

First order of business was to have my first Mai Tai of the trip, lunch and a stroll around the beautiful grounds. Lunch was at the open-air Bistro Molokini near the pool. I never get tired of enjoying meals outside with a balmy breeze, and in Maui the breezes just seem balmier. Walking the path that twists and turns through the gardens and along the babbling brooks was a good way to spend the rest of the afternoon getting a acquainted with the huge 40 acre resort.

Grand Wailea walkway

First thing the next morning, I went for my Ali’i Honey Cocoon body therapy at Grand Wailea’s Spa Grande before our scheduled art tour. Then it was off to the pool for R & R. Dinner that night at the romantic Humuhumunukunukuapua’a (Hawaiian for pig-snouted triggerfish, the state fish of Hawaii), a floating restaurant on an authentic-seeming lagoon, was exceptional.

Grand Wailea Hawaiian wood carvings

It’s never easy to leave a place you’ve enjoyed, but we were also looking forward to our next destination — a luxury resort in Hana.

TWS Thumbs Up!

Travaasa Hana

Greeted at the open-air lobby with leis and fresh POG (a combination of passionfruit, orange and guava juices), we got a sense of the type of experience we were about to have for two nights at Travaasa Hana Resort on Maui’s east northeast coast. After a beautiful, but occasionally scary ride on the Road to Hana, we felt an almost immediate sense of calm. Many people drive the Road to Hana as a day trip from the west coast resorts, but I think Hana is best experienced if you can stay at least one night there.

Travaasa Hana Sea Ranch Cottages

Our bellman, Patrick, parked the car and returned to take us to our Sea Ranch Cottage in a golf cart, scooting along the paths from the main building past the pool and down to the ocean front cottage. The property was once part of a sugar cane plantation and the Travaasa buildings were originally the buildings where 500 workers had lived. When the plantation was purchased in 1946 the buildings were renovated and additional ones added to later become what is now the resort. Celebrities come to Travaasa Hana to get away from the limelight without sacrificing luxury.

A bit of serendipity was our first steps onto the verandah where we looked out at the sea and Patrick said that we might even see some whales although it was late in the season. Immediately following his comment, two whales jumped out of the water fairly close to shore since it was a calm day. We took that as a sign of “welcome”.

Travaasa Hana pool

After time spent at the gorgeous, sparkling pool (which we had almost to ourselves), a walk around the grounds, and then a “Hana Fusion” dinner in the Ka’uiki Dining Room, we went to sleep that night with the only sounds being that of waves crashing on the rocks of the nearby shore. Early in the morning, I heard the soft taps of rain on the vaulted ceiling adding to the peaceful feeling I already had. We then watched a beautiful sunrise which we wouldn’t be able to see from the other side of the island.

Church adjacent to Travaasa Hana property

It doesn’t take long to walk through the quiet side streets of Hana where we also came across the Hana Cultural Center and a group of volunteers constructing a traditional “hale” (Hawaiian for house) which we’ll write about later.

Happy traveler at Travaasa Hana

A little more time at the pool the next day and we were off to Haleakala National Park for a hike to Waimoku falls through the bamboo forest, a fascinating part of the trail that was both eerie and beautiful.

The peacefulness and beauty of Hana and the luxurious ambiance of Travaasa Hana made these two nights very special. A horseback ride in the pastures along the coast in the morning and then we were on our way back to the western side of Maui.

TWS Thumbs Up!

Napili Kai Beach Resort

Sunset from our room at Napili Kai Beach Resort

Warm, friendly and unpretentious was the mood of Napili Kai Beach Resort along Napili Beach. I don’t think that the tradition of greeting guest with leis can be overstated. It sets a tone for the rest of the stay. We had arrived late in the day, so made our way quickly to room to catch the sunset. Several two-story buildings are spread out through the resort, each with its own small pool. Our second story room in the Puna II building was right at the ocean, separated only by a small yard area and palm trees. The spacious balcony was perfect for catching the sunset.

The Sea House Restaurant served up excellent meals for our dinner that evening and a great breakfast the next morning. Talking to some of the locals, we learned that Napili Kai’s Sea House restaurant is also well-known among the area residents for its tasty and affordable breakfast. (Below left is the Haleakala Oven-baked Pancake and on the right is the Molokai Sweet Potato Egg Frittata.)

Mr. TWS is the ultimate water person and had an enjoyable time snorkeling off the shore of the lovely beach. Paddleboarding is also a very popular activity here.

Paddleboarders at Napili Kai Beach Resort

The resort is well-suited for various types of travelers – romantic for couples, families – lots of activities. Young and old. The demographic varies with the seasons, holidays and events. They stress value by not “nickle and diming” guests, rather providing many complimentary services. Also, the restaurant was quite reasonably priced for very good quality food and service.

The management and staff of the resort were particularly helpful and resourceful, working with us on logistics issues and offering advice.

TWS thumbs up!

Westin Maui

After a 2-day excursion to the island of Moloka’I, we returned to Maui and the Westin Maui Resort at Ka’anapali Beach.

Westin Maui

This was a time to really kick back and relax at the one of the five separate pools with water slides and waterfalls and a swim-through grotto, enjoy pool-side service, swim in the ocean and  hang out on the beach. All activities were easily accessible. Our ocean-view room offered a great vista of the resort, beach and boats sailing on the ocean.

Ka’anapali Beach at sunset

There are dining, shopping and entertainment options at the hotel itself as well as along the Ka’anapali Beach promenade. The town of Lahaina is only 3 miles away for even more choices. It’s a perfect getaway for lively fun in the sun. The restaurants are excellent and very busy, so make reservations!

View from our room at Westin Maui

TWS thumbs up!

We enjoyed each resort and just wish that we could have had more time in each location. But… we’re not complaining!

Disclosure: We were guests of Visit Maui, Grand Wailea Resort, Travaasa Hana, Napili Kai Beach Resort, and the Westin Maui, but our opinions and recommendations are totally our own – as always.

This is our contribution to Travel Photo Thursday at Budget Travelers Sandbox

The post A Maui Resort Sampler appeared first on Traveling with Sweeney.

I’m not against a little pampering at a spa. I just don’t seem to find the time! But a stay at the Grand Wailea in Maui was a perfect excuse to indulge.

Let’s start in the Spa Grande lobby

Spa Grande Lobby

My first look at the lobby of Spa Grande with its Italian marble and chandelier gave me the sense that I was in for something very special.

I was met by Assistant Spa Director, Stephenie Handley, who gave me an overview of the 50,000 sq. ft. facilities on two floors and a walk-through of the women’s area of the spa. The men have their own equally impressive facilities on the other side of the spa. Between the men’s and women’s area is a shared verandah overlooking the lush grounds and ocean. The spa is the largest in Hawaii and has won numerous prestigious awards, renowned for their wellness and beauty treatments that incorporate Eastern, Western and Hawaiian styles of therapy.

Having an early morning appointment added to the VIP feeling of the spa as I was the only guest in the locker room to change out of my clothes. Although I’m not overly modest, I opted to wear bikini bottoms provided by the spa — but not the top. I assumed that other guests would be nude and I didn’t want to seem too out of place in this exclusive spa.

Spa guests spend one hour prior to their scheduled treatment in the Terme Hydrotherapy Circuit (three water therapy areas). I began in the Western therapies area of the spa where I spent time in the Roman whirlpool, followed by a dry sauna and then eucalyptus steam room (making sure to stay hydrated, of course.) It’s funny how it takes a little time to actually start to unwind when you’re used to super-busy, active days at home and work. But by the time I got into the steam room, I could feel my shoulders and facial muscles start to relax.

I really didn’t keep track of time (a good thing), but after a while one of the therapists lead me into a private room for an exfoliation treatment to polish up my skin.

From there I moved on to the Eastern therapies area and a traditional Japanese Furo bath (sitting bath). I felt a little awkward at first, but then started to appreciate the new cleansing experience.

My favorite part of the pre-treatment therapies was the Hawaiian sea salt baths, complete with three waterfalls. The five colorful baths look so inviting and each has its distinct composition, aromas and benefits. Created with salt masters on the island of Molokai, each bath is made of freshly harvested premium sea salt blended with herbs, fruits, minerals and spices representing the personality of each island. My favorite of the three I tried was the Maui bath with blue sea salt, coconut oil and the oils of eucalyptus, rosemary and the Ylang Ylang flower. (Apparently, Ylang Ylang is commonly used in aromatherapy and the making of perfumes.) The benefit of this bath is to oxygenate and hydrate the skin and take away stress. Indeed, I was quite stress-free after the Maui bath.

It was here that I first came across other guests in in the baths and showers. They were all wearing bathing suits — tops and bottoms. I felt rather daring and proud of myself.

Hawaiian Salt Baths, Photo credit: Grand Wailea Resort

Then I was called for my spa treatment.

A taste of honey

Bees on a honeycomb on Grand Wailea’s roof, Photo credit: Grand Wailea Resort

It was surprising to learn that the Grand Wailea has its own rooftop apiary where bees produce the honey that is used in the spa and restaurants. The resort was the first on Maui to do this in their efforts to support the island’s environment.

I had never heard of a honey treatment before, but the Ali’i Honey Steam Cocoon body therapy turned out to be the highlight of the experience, one I’d like to repeat someday.

I loved the feeling of the raw honey being applied on my body. It was heavenly. I really didn’t want to get up off the table, but there was an important next step in the treatment. With the honey now on the skin, my body was cocooned in a sheet and I was taken back to the steam room where I stretched out while the steam was helping with the absorption of the nutrients in the honey.

Of course, that’s not me in the photo below (or in the bath above). The treatment is fantastic and my skin felt fresh and hydrated, but it didn’t perform a miracle!

Ali’i Honey Steam Cocoon Treatment, Photo credit: Grand Wailea Resort

Good for the skin

After a shower and brief massage, my morning at the spa had come to an end. I was now totally relaxed, glowing and truly feeling the aloha.

Not so good for the skin

Enjoying a Mai Tai at the Grand Wailea pool

Properly protected with sunscreen, I enjoyed a Mai Tai at the pool. I know this isn’t very good for the skin, but it’s great for the attitude.

Where was Mr. TWS?

Mr. TWS doesn’t like to be spa-pampered. Actually, I think if he’d give it a try, he’d enjoy it and it would do him a world of good. In fact, Spa Grande has “Sweetheart Packages” that sounded very romantic — and he is a romantic. But he would rather spend time on the beach.

Mr. TWS on Wailea Beach

Another surprise for me at the spa was to learn that they have Family Programs including chocolate-coconut massages for kids. I guess some kids are lucky enough to start getting pampered at early ages.

For more information: Grand Wailea Resort

Disclosure: My accommodations and spa treatment were courtesy of the Grand Wailea, A Waldorf Astoria Resort, but the enjoyment was totally mine.

The post Maui Forecast: Sunny and Honey appeared first on Traveling with Sweeney.

In the DNA

Japanese developer and original owner of Grand Wailea, Takeshi Sekiguchi, envisioned the resort as an open-air art museum for guests as well as the Maui community. Art was one of the key elements of the original design, which included light, water, flowers, trees, sound and art — each aspect is integrated throughout areas of the resort.

Many fine hotels and resorts display works of art to complement their décor, symbolize their brand and catch the eye of guests. But most of these have done this as part of the interior design of the hotel. However, as Grand Wailea’s Managing Director Matt Bailey described, at the Grand Wailea, “Art is in our DNA”. Here are some of the highlights of our art tour with Grand Wailea spokesperson, Christina Yumul.

A Signature Collection

Nine bronze cast sculptures by Colombian artist Fernando Botero are centerpieces of the collection. These impressive large bronze sculptures surround the Botero Bar in the lobby. The sculpture below, Mother and Child, shows an earth mother holding a child, but the child is really an adult man and she is also standing on a full-size adult man.

Mother and Child, Fernando Botero

The Botero Sculpture of a woman lying on her stomach smoking a cigarette (pictured below) is the largest in the collection and one of the most valuable sculptures in Hawaii. The Boteros were purchased for $40K/each when they were commissioned in 1989. To speculate on what they might be worth now, a white marble version of Woman Smoking a Cigarette went for $1.6 million in 2007.

Woman Smoking a Cigarette, Fernando Botero

Sekiguchi’s objective was also to make the art accessible to all who visited, so you won’t find roped-off or glass-enclosed exhibits. While refreshing, this unusual accessibility occasionally creates situations to make curators nervous. Christina said that when Michael Gilbert, curator of the Grand Wailea’s collection, got very concerned when he saw children climbing on a million dollar statue, Sekiguchi had reassured him by saying that was the point of the accessibility.

The Spirit of Hawaiian Culture

King Kamehameha, Herb Kawainui Kane

Many of the works at Grand Wailea represent the spirit of Hawaiian culture. Outside at the entrance of the Grand Wailea is one of only five major statues of King Kamehameha I who unified Hawaii and created the Kingdom of Hawaii in 1810. The statue was done by Herb Kawainui Kāne, an important artist and historian and one of the key people in the Second Hawaiian Renaissance in the 1970’s. He also was key to establishing that Hawaii was initially populated with Polynesians who went back and forth between Hawaii and Tahiti in canoes rather than as a result of a one-time accidental landing. Herb Kāne also has many other sculptures at the Grand Wailea. Unique about this sculpture was that there was a concerted effort to make it as realistic as possible. According to Christina, it is the only one of the statues that represents Kamehameha I’s features as Hawaiian rather than Aryan. The statue also uniquely portrays his height as 7 feet. In an effort to be accurate, that height was calculated from the length of his actual cape and pictures of him in the cape.

Maui Captures the Sun, Shige Yamada

Maui Captures the Sun by Shige Yamada is positioned at the entrance of the hotel’s formal dining room. Christina described the story it tells of the demi-god Maui slowing the sun for his mother so that she could get more work done while it was still light. It is positioned so that the rays of the sun on the vernal equinox (I believe) pass directly through the fiery circle of the statue.

Three Male Hula Dancers, Jan Fisher

Jan Fisher’s Three Male Hula Dancers is complemented by another sculpture on the property, Three Female Hula Dancers as well as other bronzes of Polynesian men and women throughout the resort.

Art with a History

La Branche, Fernand Léger

18 bronze sculptures created by French cubist Fernand Léger are also core pieces in the collection and according to Michael Gilbert are probably the most historically significant. La Branche was created in tribute to philanthropist Abby Rockefeller who commissioned him to do some paintings when he first came to the United States from Europe, the start of his lucrative career.

Art and Water

Nai’a Kauhulu (Gathering of Dolphins), Edward Brownlee

The first thing I heard in the mornings when I awoke and the last before I fell asleep was the sound of the ocean, waves gently lapping at the shore. In fact, Grand Wailea was designed so that water is heard everywhere throughout the resort. No matter where you are, you will hear water from the ocean, the fountains or the babbling brooks — part of the DNA. As such, many of the works are found around and in the water, including Herb Kane’s Child Mermaid with Shell at Humuhumunukunukuapua’a (Hawaiian for pig-snouted triggerfish, the state fish of Hawaii) Restaurant.

Mermaid at Humuhumunukunukuapua’a Restaurant

The painting below, Water, is by artist Zhou Ling whose other paintings in the resort include Hawaiian Aloha, Moon, and Fire.

Water, Zhou Ling

Koi as Art

As water is one of the key integrated design elements of Grand Wailea, the exquisite koi in the Grand Wailea’s ponds are works of living art in themselves. I learned that koi are collected as art and a single fish can sell for as much as $50,000.

Koi pond at Japanese Tea House

The Art of Glass

Each of the stained glass panels by Yvonne Cheng in the chapel at Grand Wailea depict different aspects of Hawaiian life. Three Murano glass chandeliers in 17th century French design also adorn the chapel. One is visible in the photo below.

Stained glass panels in the chapel, Yvonne Cheng

And the exquisite glass collection continues in the NaPua Gallery where renowned artist Dale Chihuly’s Ocean Waves compels you to step inside. Made of 135 pieces of hand-blown multi-colored glass, it represents the oceans of the world. The gallery has a library room where art enthusiasts can relax and peruse a wide collection of art books.

Dale Chihuly chandelier at NaPua Gallery

Surprises

As you stroll along the meandering path among the palm trees and tropical flowers, you may also come across some unexpected art such as this sculpture by Jan Fisher of a half man and half boar creature purposely hidden among the flora so it seems real. I won’t tell you the location so you can be surprised, too.

Sculpture by Jan Fisher

Building as Art

Sekiguchi was also influential in other hotel features, such as deciding to have the main shape of the main hotel structure to be that of a turtle emerging from the sea. Seen from the air, you can make out the shape of a turtle — the intended effect is that the turtle has emerged from the ocean and headed toward Hana, represented by rocks and a waterfall at the hotel entrance.

Art is everywhere at the Grand Wailea from the major overall design of the building and grounds to the individual works of art in the collection, many of them capturing the essence of the Hawaiian spirit.

If you go:

A complimentary tour of the Art Collection is available to the public on Tuesdays and Fridays at 10 am at NaPua Gallery. There is also an Artists in Residence program in the lobby on Tuesdays and Fridays from 9-2 when selected artists display and sell their works.

For more information: Grand Wailea, A Waldorf Astoria Resort

Disclosure: Our accommodations during our stay were provided by the Grand Wailea Resort, but our opinions and perspectives are totally our own — as always.

This is our contribution to Travel Photo Thursday at Budget Travelers Sandbox

The post Grand Wailea Art: It’s in Their DNA appeared first on Traveling with Sweeney.

Among the many varied experiences during our recent trip to Maui, one of the most memorable was horseback riding in Hana, on the island’s eastern coast.

Morning on the Hana coastline

Though Sweeney had done some English style riding years earlier, my experience had been a few rides on a friend’s horse; in that the goal there was not to learn to ride but to survive. There are coastal horseback rides in California very near our house, but we’d never chosen to try, partly because there had been some controversy regarding the treatment of the horses. Both of us were quite happy with the decision to ride in Maui: even with our history, riding was basically a new experience, the views along the coast were perfect and so was the weather, but probably the biggest reason was the surprise we hadn’t expected.

Lucky and Cody

As we approached the Hana Riding Stables, just across Hana Highway from our cottage at Travaasa Hana, we were greeted by our guide, Jolynn Piimauna, who introduced us to Lucky and Cody, the horses Sweeney and I would ride. We were especially lucky to be the only ones taking advantage of the early morning ride.

Jolynn giving Sweeney instruction before the ride

As with anything new, there’s always a little apprehension and a desire not to do anything stupid. Jolynn was very calm and instructive and seconds later Sweeney was up on Lucky. Jolynn provided the basic instructions for holding the reins, leg and body positioning and then basic ways of communicating with Lucky to go right, left and stop. It was here we got our first insight about Jolynn. Sweeney said, “And you’ll be right there with us.” Jolynn said, “No, I’ll just need to go with you to cross the road and then you’ll be on your own for the ride; just be back in an hour.” We were both surprised.

A surprised and frightened rider?

Shocked by the news?

I thought that was unexpected, but pretty neat. Judging by the look on Sweeney’s face, I don’t think she was fond of the concept she but she just laughed and said, “Oh, OK!” (The photo above was just a random shot.) Then quickly Jolynn said, “No, I’ll be with you all the way.” I really appreciate that kind of tongue in cheek humor and have a pretty good radar but Jolynn had taken us both. It was the timing and total believability of her delivery. Seconds later I was up on Cody and after the same instructions, we were off.

We crossed the road and headed into a pasture along the coast. There were other horses there and a younger one was in the path. I assumed Cody would just walk around on his own but headed right for the horse nipping him in the butt as if to say, “Get out of the way, youngster; show some respect.”

Hana coastline

The Hana Ranch owns lots of property near Hana much of it is used for raising cattle. We approached a gate and could see many “cows” on the other side. Jolynn said, “They’re all bulls. They’re used to riders coming through; they won’t bother with us. Just don’t look them in the eye.” It was only when I’d repeated this for Sweeney that she told me she was just kidding. Twice in a few minutes; Jolynn was one of the best at this.

Traveling with Sweeney on horseback

Talking Story

The Hawaiians have a term for chatting and story-telling, “talk story”, and that’s what we did about several different topics during the beautiful ride along the coast just south of the Travaasa property; we learned a lot about Hawaiian (in particular Hana) residents and also about Jolynn who was the surprise of the trip making what would have been a great activity into one that was really extraordinary. She talked of her upbringing as a fourth generation Hana native and her father who trained horses teaching her at an early age. She first rode a horse alone at two. She said she and her four siblings didn’t understand why they couldn’t play and take it easy like other kids but now she is really grateful that her father passed the family business to her siblings and especially her. She was a living representative of the way tradition and lore and know-how are passed generation to generation uniquely in Hawaii.

Along the way, Jolynn pointed to a large house that was far out on a point and said there was a 90+ year-old woman living there. She said that the woman gave back to the community by allowing the locals to use a section of her property for parties at no cost for special celebrations, such as weddings. In return, volunteers donated time to help with the upkeep of her property and house.

Jolynn talked about other ways that people helped each other and how this community of about 1800 residents was a very close knit family. The downside, she said, is that everyone knows your business. She talked of her sister’s house being destroyed by a tsunami. Townspeople on higher ground pulled her mother and sisters from the water to safety after the first wave. The townspeople also worked together in restoring their home, which was completely gone after the wave, and they did it in less than a month.

Travaasa Hana, previously a sugar plantation

Jolynn said the pastures had been a sugar cane plantation and the Travaasa buildings were the buildings where 500 had workers lived. When the plantation was purchased in 1946 the buildings were renovated and additional ones added to later become what is now Travaasa Hana today.

She spoke of the high cost for groceries and the fact that locals would make monthly treks to the other side of Maui to stock up and freeze food and supplies that are far less expensive than in Hana. She said they supplement with meat they get by hunting deer and wild pigs on the freely accessible land as well as by fishing in the ocean. There were also stray cattle that were considered wild.

We had heard that Oprah Winfrey owned property that we would be riding near. We had just assumed an investment but Jolynn described meeting Oprah as she inquired about Hana, and Jolynn also provided the “rest of the story” (as Paul Harvey used to say). She thought Oprah was a wonderful person and described the land deal as something that really helped the Hana Ranch and the community. She also described Oprah’s generosity and friendliness towards her personally.

We asked about other celebrities she’d met and she mentioned a few such as Michael and Janet Jackson, Steven Seagal and Jim Nabors. She particularly singled out Michael Jackson, saying that he was so incredibly nice. When her family heard he was to take a riding tour with her, they all wanted to show up and meet him. When she asked him if it would be OK, he said certainly and was very gracious with his time after the ride, spending hours listening to her sister singing country western songs (a tradition passed on by their mother) and joining in. She said they were all very nice, but did mention one other celebrity who was not so nice and very demanding. However, Jolynn made it clear that she was the boss on the trail ride and the celebrity needed to do what she said.

Jolynn and Sweeney

The ride and instruction were great, but the really surprising and unique aspect of the activity was meeting and talking with Jolynn. If you travel to Hana, take the time to go riding with her. Check with Travaasa Hana’s concierge about Hana Riding Stables pricing and reservations.

Talk story with us — what are your horseback riding experiences?

The post Horseback Riding and Talking Story in Hana appeared first on Traveling with Sweeney.

Hawaiian Sunset

We’re just back from our 10 day Maui excursion with memory cards filled with photos to share in upcoming posts. But to get started, I’ve compiled a few of my favorite Mr. TWS sunset photos from the trip — plus a couple of celestial extras.

Maui Sunsets

On Ka’anapli Beach

Ka’anapali Beach Sunset

At the Grand Wailea Resort

Sunset at Grand Wailea, Maui

On the ferry from Maui to Moloka’i

Molokai Sunset

From our room at Napili Kai Beach Resort

Napili Sunset

The sun also rises

On Maui’s East Coast at Travaasa Hana

Sunrise in Hana, on the northeast coast of Maui

And the moon also sets

From our balcony at the Westin Maui at Ka’anapali Beach

Moon setting over the Hawaiian Islands

Where have you enjoyed memorable sights of the sun and moon?

This is our contribution to Travel Photo Thursday at Budget Travelers Sandbox

The post Maui Sunsets appeared first on Traveling with Sweeney.

What a day for a Maui road trip through diverse terrain with scenic views and surprises.

View from Haleakala backside road

During our last morning in Hana at Travaasa Hana we took a horseback ride along the coast and got a great tip from our guide, Jolynn Piimauna — to take the road along the backside of Haleakala instead of backtracking on the Road to Hana. Mai Tais, swims in the pool, walks on the beach and dining on Hawaiian natural cuisine have cut into some of our blogging time. So, although our day was full of sights and activities, in this post I’ll share just a few of the sights and an amusing anecdote from the drive from Hana in East Maui to Napili on the northwest shore of West Maui.

Rocky Maui coastline

Sweeney on a rocky beach

The northern route to Hana is a great drive but a lot has to do with the stops and hikes; on the Haleakala backside route, there were beautiful vistas and mountain views along the whole drive.

Unpaved portion of Haleakala backside road

We’d read a lot about the roughness of this route but it seemed from things we’d read online this was a thing of the past with recent paving. The road was a bit rougher in spots but also wider and smoother, particularly where recently paved. We’d read ( I thought jokingly) that the dangers included possibly running into cows, so I was surprised and amused to find a stray calf wandering in the middle of the road. Sweeney was driving and stopped abruptly, though we were probably going 15 mph at the time.

Calf on road

She inched forward to get past the calf without spooking it, but as she got closer, the calf kept moving ahead. As we moved forward, we saw a Hawaiian cowboy (paniolo) with an ATV. We’d learned just that morning from Jolynn that cows were no longer herded by horseback riders but rather ATV drivers.

Who knew there was a running of the bulls in Hawaii? We caught it at close range.

We assumed the paniolo had heard of the wayward calf and was in pursuit; however, passing the calf, we found that the paniolo was blocking the road with his ATV and looking up the road (away from the calf). We stopped the car and waited, expecting for help to show up so that he could let us pass; however, the time dragged on.

Rancher and his ATV

As the cars gathered behind us, people parked and I got out to shoot some pictures. Then Sweeney suggested I go ask what was happening. I approached the cowboy and he said that he was stopping traffic because they were bringing the bulls down the road for mating. We chatted for a bit and I started back to rejoin Sweeney. She began screaming for me to get in the car and pointed up the hill. I whipped around and saw bulls stampeding over the hill. That may seem an overstatement but it is exactly what it looked like; the running of the bulls headed right at me.

I ran back toward the ATV, I guess, to get a closer picture. (Isn’t that what zooms are about?). Perhaps it was to share the minimum cover the ATV provided. The stampede seemed to stop itself; the bulls knew where the gate was and they seemed excited to get inside. I didn’t get a photo or video of the stampede, but this short video shows the aftermath (not our voices in the background, by the way).

While I was up talking to the cowboy, several people approached Sweeney (in the driver’s seat of the lead car) and asked her what was going on. One woman asked: “Well, what’s going on?”, as though Sweeney was in charge of the delay and the woman wanted to know why. Then even more amusingly, an impatient young man approached the “person in charge” (Sweeney) and said agitatedly: “So how long is this going to take?” Of course, Sweeney replied: “I don’t know.” He retreated muttering to himself. I’d love to have heard how each of them relayed the message to their travel companions.

Beautiful scenery along the way

Haleakala Mountain

Stay tuned — there will be much more about our Maui exploration in upcoming posts, including the horse ride and the rest of the drive to Napili.

This is our contribution to Travel Photo Thursday at Budget Travelers Sandbox and R We There Yet Mom’s Friday Daydreamin’ Series.

The post Maui Road Trip: Running of the Bulls appeared first on Traveling with Sweeney.

Until recently, Budapest District 8 was off the radar for visitors, considered a high crime area with buildings in various stages of disrepair from neglect. It’s still not a place that tourists will find easily.

Krúdy Gyula Street, District 8

During our first visit recently, Sweeney and I really fell in love with Budapest. Just as in other places we’ve visited, we were really glad we carved the time out for a Context Travel walking seminar. During our “Barons of Budapest” tour, we were introduced to District 8 which is known as the Palace District. We would not have stumbled upon this area or learned the stories and history of the area on our own. Our informed and friendly guide, Eniko Békés, a Budapest native with a Master’s degree in art history and a PhD in Neo-Latin Studies, has an enthusiasm for the topic which was also an important part of the tour.

The palaces of District 8 are not the royal palaces that you think of when visiting many places in Europe and the barons are not the barons of nobility, but instead were more like the aristocratic “railroad barons” of the U.S. That is, they were people of wealth, power and influence mostly without noble bloodlines. Their time in history was the latter part of the 19th century, when Hungary assumed its elevated position among countries in the Austrian Empire as it became the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1867. During this time, the wealthy families of Budapest were trying to build residences modeled after the grand mansions of Vienna and Paris. Many of these structures in District 8 were destroyed in World War II. Some were designed by architect Miklós Ybl who also designed other landmark buildings in Budapest, including the Hungarian State Opera and St. Stephen’s Basilica.

There’s lots of interesting history that I won’t cover in this post; instead my main objective is to show some of the exterior architecture and magnificent interiors of a few of the buildings we toured as well as other sites along the way that we found interesting.

We began our walk in front of the Hungarian National Museum on Múzeum körút. The steps pictured are important in key historical events, such as the Hungarian Revolution against the Austrian Empire in 1848 and annual events commemorating the revolution. Additionally, before the construction of the current Hungarian Parliament, the members met in this building.

Hungarian National Museum

As we turned off the busy Múzeum körút to go deeper into the Palace District, we began to see a different side of Budapest.

It was nice to learn that many of the residential palaces of the area are being restored and used for functional purposes, such as government buildings, contributing to the general gentrification of this historical center of Pest (the city on the east side of the Danube that was joined with Buda on the west side to form Budapest). As a result, we were only able to see the exterior of some of the buildings, such as Dessewffy Palace pictured below.

Dessewffy Palace renovation in District 8

The Italian Institute of Culture on Bródy Sándor utca pictured below gives a hint of the original splendor and the opulence of buildings in the Palace district. The building was designed by Miklós Ybl and was the seat of the House of Representatives of the Hungarian National Assembly between 1865 and 1902. In front of the building is a bust of Giorgio Perlasca, who was an Italian who saved thousands of Jews during the Holocaust.

Opulent exterior of the Italian Cultural Institute in District 8

It was interesting to see rows of these houses clustered together along city blocks. Typically, there had been an initial building and then the others eventually filled in. The first light building as you move leftwas the original Parliament building.

Row of buildings in the Palace District

I liked the unusual façade of Gschwindt Palace building with its unusual clock just above the two windows on the right.

Exterior of Gschwindt Palace in the Palace District

The elaborate staircase pictured below is located in the former Festetics Palace, originally belonging to one of Emperor Franz Josef’s ministers. It is now Andrássy University, the first German-speaking university in non-German-speaking Central Europe.

Staircase in Andrássy University

The former ball room is used as a large meeting room but even with the modern chairs the beauty of the interior prevails. The many mirrors, the elaborate chandelier and the ornateness of the windows, walls and ceiling were my favorite parts of this room.

Mirror Hall, Andrassy University

Detail of Andrassy University interior design

Wooden doors of Andrassy University

This impressive building is one of three Károlyi Palaces. The building to the left of it is a remnant of the communist era built in the 1960s on the site of the Hungarian National Stables, demolished after World War II.

One of the three Károlyi Palaces

The most impressive building we toured was the Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library, formerly Wenckheim Palace. It would be hard to come up with an excuse for not going to study in a library that is this amazingly beautiful. However, once there I can imagine it would probably be difficult to concentrate on studies in such a setting. Below are pictured some of the highlights.

Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library

Study area in Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library

Staircase in Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library

Detailed ceiling and staircase in Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library

This atrium is in the lobby area of this magnificent library.

Atrium in Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library

This painted dome ceiling and spiral wrought-iron staircase in another District 8 building are further examples of the opulence of Budapest’s Golden Age.

Gorgeous ceiling and staircase in former palace of District 8

Another site that played a big part in Hungarian History was the Magyar Radio building, the flash point of the Hungarian Revolution of 1956 against the government of the Soviet People’s Republic of Hungary and its policies. It began as a student revolt and when the students attempted to enter the state-owned radio building, the police fired on the crowd killing several.

Magyar Radio building, scene of historical events

The names of those who died are etched on the plaque between the two windows on the left. The flag pictured, symbolizing the 1956 Hungarian Revolution, has a hole in it where the communist coat of arms was cut out.

Plaque commemorating those slain at the building in 1956 revolution

Not all of the construction in District 8 is preservationist and restorative. In the photo below, the original fence of a 19th century palace was preserved but behind it is a modern glass building. Notice also the “attractive” elevator sticking up in front of the fence. Fortunately, this was a rare sight in the area.

Modern glass building contrasts with the old

The Palace neighborhood of Budapest District 8 gives you a different perspective of the city and its history. Consider taking Context Travel’s Barons of Budapest tour to experience it.

Sweeney and Eniko Békés

Thank you, Context Travel, for hosting our walk.

This is our contribution to Travel Photo Thursday at Budget Travelers Sandbox

The post Budapest District 8: The Palace Neighborhood appeared first on Traveling with Sweeney.