Destinations in Indian Himalayas

Mumbai Landing From Arabian Seaside

2021-08-16T19:15:00.001-07:00

Singhik View Point - North Sikkim

2021-08-01T18:45:00.000-07:00

Chungthang Hydroelectric Dam & Township - North Sikkim In Autumn

2021-07-15T18:44:00.000-07:00

Amitabh Bachchan Falls or Bhim Nala Falls - North Sikkim

2021-07-01T18:58:00.001-07:00

Bagdogra Take Off & Mt. Everest Views

2021-06-15T18:59:00.001-07:00

Rumtek Monastery - Gangtok, Sikkim

2021-05-01T19:26:00.001-07:00

Bakthang Falls At Gangtok - Sikkim

2021-03-01T18:36:00.000-08:00

Triveni Teesta & Rangeet Rivers Confulence From NH 10

2021-02-01T18:02:00.000-08:00

Hanuman Tok Temple At Gangtok - Sikkim

2021-01-01T18:01:00.001-08:00

Ganesh Tok Temple At Gangtok - Sikkim

2020-12-01T18:30:00.000-08:00

Tashi View Point At Gangtok - Sikkim

2020-11-03T05:13:00.001-08:00

Mt Kanchenjungha At Sunrise From Darjeeling

2020-09-01T19:33:00.001-07:00

Peshoke View Point (Lovers Meet ) - Kalimpong, Darjeeling

2020-08-01T19:27:00.001-07:00

Drive to Gurudongmar Lake - North Sikkim In Autumn

2020-07-27T19:39:00.001-07:00

Old Silk Route From Gnathang to Nimachen - East Sikkim In Autumn

2020-07-16T06:11:00.001-07:00

Nako – High Altitude Destination in Kinnaur Valley, Himachal Pradesh

2015-01-02T19:26:00.003-08:00

On morning of 6^th May 2014, we left behind Kaza, commencing our return journey. We were headed for Nako ( 11,800’) - a high altitude destination belonging to Pooh divisions of Kinnaur district. Going along NH22, a diversion road from Yangthang going 7 km uphill leads us to Nako. As we ascend, the topography resembles more like that of vegetation less Spiti region rather than lush green valleys of Kinnaur to which Nako belongs. Having acclimatized for harsh cold climate and high altitude at Kaza, Kibber and Pin valley, we surmised Nako will cause no problems.

Nearing Nako - Village View

Nako Lke - Partly Hidden

At 1.30 pm, reaching the fringes of Nako village, black soil bearing enormous potato cultivation plots with the backdrop of towering snow-capped hills making their appearance. The dense cluster of cottages of the village appeared to hide Nako lake cradled at a lower elevation. Our first priority was to hunt for a hotel with a lake facing view. We came across a few hotels but not to our liking. Going upward along the mud track, we had a first glimpse of the lake, partially hidden. Taking a turn, it took some guiding from a villager to squeeze our Tavera car without hitting the boundary walls of adjoining plots to park it next to the hotel- a three storied structure.

Lake View from Opposite Bank

Lake View Hotel

The Lake View Hotel is in a vantage location giving a clear view of lake. It has small cultivation plots in front to grow vegetables. As luck would have it, a few rooms were vacant and a room on ground floor at Rs.1,500/- per day became our shelter for the night. Barely 2 pm, after a light lunch and some rest, a walk by the lake side was for asking. Along the cement track adjoining the lake and coming to bang opposite of where our hotel is located, we got a full view of Nako village at slightly higher elevation. The well spread out village, consisting of cluster of houses, comprises of nearly 572 people belonging to 128 families. Their major occupation happens to be potato cultivation.

Fishing in Lake

The Catch

Walking along the lakeside brought us close to a villager, who was busy with his fishing, making use of a long thread with one end tied to a rock and other end with hook. After some attempts he did manage a few small fishes. The rather small lake had its share of submerged reeds along the edge. The tall trees on the distant end could have been planted to make it look more scenic with its reflection on placid lake water. In early summer, the tree trunk and branches looked lifeless brown with scanty pale green leaves, having taken the brunt of harsh winter onslaught.

*Nako Monastery

Buddhist Temple

Around 5 pm, the sunlight still strong, we took to the extreme north end of the village to arrive at 11^th Century Monastic compound. The Monastery building looked colorful and majestic. The gate being closed, as early summer has very few tourists visiting this place. The four Buddhist temples constructed out of mud-stone looks primitive no doubt, but colored in brick red, have a beauty of their own. The mud plastered Stupas also called Chortens, add to religious fervor of Buddhism, very common in destinations in Indian Himalayas. It was becoming rather cold with chill winds blowing so we finished with our sightseeing as early as we could and returned to hotel for the evening to be locked up in room after giving order for dinner . The dinner was simple but curry made out of giant local potatoes was delicious and some desi ghee added, made it divine.

Nako Lake View from Elevation

Nako Lake - Full View

The next morning downed with a bright sunlit day to lift our spirits in biting cold of high altitude destination. In my journey through Himalayas, I relished early morning walks through the village. Before taking to village trail, in quest for getting some goods shots of the lake, I walked through the mud stone track uphill to get a vantage view of Nako lake. A large number of Mani stones occupied scattered on roadside, adding a divine dimension to the place. The lake looked magnificent in sunlit morning, with its deep blue water reflecting the trees, some portion of the village and distant snow capped hill, to make up the entire canvass.

Mani Stones at Nako

Buddhist Temple at Nako Village

Retreating back towards hotel, I took a narrow walking track behind the hotel, going towards village. The single storied houses very close to each other was followed by a colorful Buddhist temple which kept me busy for a few minutes. Not knowing anything of the village, I took to general direction towards north end of village, walking parallel to lake. The early morning is time for villagers to collect fodder for their domesticated animals, which predominantly consisted of milch animals, horses and sheep. At the extreme end of village, a cultivation plot revealed some greenery at last.

Early summer being beginning of cultivation time, it was too early to see the greenery in potato fields. But, our driver Sohan managed to procure one Nako grown giant potato, weighing more than 500 grams, a produce of last season.

Nako Village View & Cultivation Plots

Driver Sohan with Prized Possession

Important info:

1) Nako, in Kinnaur Valley is worthwhile spending a few days. Lake View Hotel is located closest to Nako lake and booking can be done in advance as per following info:

Ranjeet Negi, cell 09418759493, 08988110689 email: ranjeetnako@gmail.com

2) Car hire for Himachal Pradesh destinations: Sohan Travel Services, Main Bazar, Dhalli, Shimla – 171012, email: sohanbushahri@gmail.com

Cell: 098166 48573, 094597 30916

Readers can see the video clip on Nako by taking the following captioned link:

Nako at a Glance

* Photo contribution by Sachin Vaidya

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Kibber Village & Wildlife Sanctuary – Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh

2014-12-23T06:21:00.003-08:00

On morning of 4^th May 2014, leaving Kaza behind, we traveled further 7 km northwards to Kee village for our first sightseeing break. At the fringes of Kee village, the single and two storied houses looked similar to almost everywhere we have seen in Spiti Valley. The pyramidal external contours of eight storied kee monastery - the largest in Spiti valley at the altitude of 13,728’ elevation looked magnificent on a bright sunlit day. On the left side at a distance, the Spiti river ran its course through the valley.

Kee Village & Gompa at higher elevation

Kee Gompa close-up Zoom shot

Barely to cover 1 km uphill ride up to Monastery, we had another break to see the monastery in side view. The top three floors of Gompa are on flat land and the rest five floors are on hill slope. The backdrop of snow clad hills added dimensions to the landscape. Further up we came to a flat land adjoining the Gompa complex from where sloping walkway seem to take one for a visit to Kee monastery. As Sachin trudged his way up, I got engrossed in a game of cricket being played by young lama students. ‘Cricket is religion in India even in this land of Buddhism at high elevation in Himalayas!’I mused.

Kee Monastery in side elevation

Lama students & game of cricket

Sachin coming back from his Kee Gompa visit, mere 5 km drive takes us to the fringes of Kibber village - where we proposed to spend the night. Hotel Tashi Zom, a good looking hotel and located a walking distance of half a km from village, looked ideal. We got a good looking room at Rs. 800/- per day; however as expected during early summer, no piped water was available. The room looked reasonable in that context. As we were in process of transferring our luggage, driver Sohan exclaimed pointing out at a distance on vegetation less rugged terrain bang opposite to hotel. A group of Ibexes were poking into mud and walking across. The long distance Handycam shot taking recourse to high optical zoom and combined with digital zoom, was not to the best of clarity but nevertheless we could recognize the feature of the animals. It downed to us that we were in fringes of Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary.

Ibexes at Sanctuary

Hotel Tashi Zom

Still a lot of time in our hands before sun god calls it a day, we were on the roads to visit Gete village situated at higher elevation at 14,000’ and is probably highest village in Asia connected by motorable road. Within no time we were above the snow line. Our first halt nearing Gete village was to get a bird’s eye view of a frozen pond with some wild horses grazing on scanty patch of grass. The snow cover was as far as eyes could go but surprisingly the road was clear of any impediments. Our next break was at the fringes of Gete village. At last we could see some villages leading Yaks for tilling plots as we have seen in many destinations in Spiti valley at this time of the year. The village appeared to be sparsely populated with hardy half a dozen houses.

Frozen pond & grazing horses

Gete village cottages

Retracing our path towards Kibber, it was again a rewarding experience of seeing some more wild life. It was driver as usual who spotted the Bharals also called Himalayan Blue Sheep on the hill slope. The half a dozen of docile looking animal appeared not to be perturbed by our presence, yet kept a watchful eye, preparing to flee in case of slightest provocation. This time we got a much closer view and it was a pleasure to shoot some video clips with good clarity. Incidentally Bharals are hunted by Snow Leopards for their own food.

Pair of Bharals

Kibber Zero Point

Returning in afternoon to hotel, feeling discomfort with cold winds blowing despite a bright sunlit day, sitting in canteen cum reception area with a cup of hot coffee was a solace. Planning for next day’s sightseeing in morning was the topic of discussion. While Sachin preferred a half day trek through Kibber Wild Life Sanctuary, I preferred a leisurely walk though the sprawling Kibber village getting to know what the village has to offer and also the activity of the villagers.

Norling Guest House

Road leading to Kibber village

On the morning of 5^th May after a leisurely breakfast, I came on the road and barely walking 100 m, stood near the milestone indicating zero point of Kibber. Another signage indiated that the road project for this village is named as Chicham Kibber project. With full day at my disposal, a casual walk without unduly testing my lungs at the high altitude of nearly 14,000’ was considered wise. For the past few days we travelled through Kaza, Tabo,Dhankar and Pin valley where altitude ranged from 10,000’ to 12,000’ thus acclimatizing ourselves. The first important single storied good looking structure of significance I came across was Norling Guest House. As expected this place looked deserted in early summer when very few tourists arrive. I took to sloping mud roads through the village going upwards. The secondary school building loomed ahead with deserted adjoining open area. Being too early for the students to troop in for their classes, it was worthwhile climbing higher to see more of the village.

Norling Homestay

Way to Plots for tilling

I came across giant yaks being led by a lone villager to his agricultural plot; yet another villager led a bunch of cows and calves. With the advent of summer, the snow cover getting lifted and snow-melt moistening the soil, it was tilling time to grow some grains for the family. The beautiful looking two storied Norling Homestay looked more like a regular hotel or guesthouse.

Highest point on Kibber village

Chorten & Kibber Gompa

Setting my foot on highest point in the village, I come across a flat stretch of land with houses on one side and cultivation plot on the other. I was actually walking on a 3 ft. mud track in between two cultivation plots. At the termination of the track I got a view of Chorten and Kibber Gompa. In any Himalayan destination particularly high altitudes ( above 8,000’ ) it is unthinkable not see the temples of Buddhist religion.

Secondary School Building

An open air class

Going downhill on my way back to hotel, I was lucky to see the School premises humming with activity. The open space bereft of anything earlier had at least 10 black boards and white boards and chairs for teachers. Students in cluster sat on mat spread on floor waiting for teachers to arrive and some perhaps catching up on their homework. I patiently waited and savored the scenario. The chemistry class had the entire backboard filled with formulae of different chemical compounds. The English class had blackboard full of English words and their Hindi meanings.

Chemistry class in progress

View of school in progress

What struck me as unusual was lack of male students in the school. Are they doing manual work along with their family members on the cultivation plots? Or, are they being sent to better schools at Kaza or any other bigger townships of Himachal by well to do villagers? With these questions in my mind, I returned to hotel by noon to wait for my friend to return from his trek through Kibber wild life sanctuary.

*Ropeway for material transport

*Frozen waterfall - Kibber Sanctuary

Over our lunch in canteen, Sachin narrated his experience through sanctuary. In his words, “after requesting for a guide at the hotel, the manager arranged for one. The guide came to meet me in the evening and discussed about the trek and instructed the hotel about the food arrangements. Together we hit sanctuary trails the next and trekked for nearly four hours. Among the notable observations we made was a frozen waterfall, a non-operational watermill for grinding grains, a trolley way for transporting material between two cliffs. However people were traveling in the trolley at great risk. I had the visual of group of Ibexes from long distance. At few places we had to cross through wooden bridges. During a break, guide offered hot tea from his flask which was great in chilly high altitude region. Over a chat guide told me that in his younger days, he and his cousin used to collect fossils from the sanctuary and sell it to tourists. About the local traditions of the villagers he said, the eldest brother inherits the agricultural land.’

*A bridge to negotiate - Sanctuary

*A watermill non-functional

After lunch, with the chill winds blowing, it was terribly cold. We were looking forward to retreat back to Kaza as early as possible for a night halt. When we reached Kaza and decided to check in at the same hotel Snow Lion, the rates had gone up to R. 1000/- per day due to piped water supply having commenced in washroom. Next day our destination was Nako, which we bypassed while travelling through Kinnaur, keeping it for our return journey. Having had a great early summer trip of Spiti valley destinations, we realized Nako although situated in Kinnaur valley will offer no respite from biting cold being situated at 11,000’ elevation.

Important Info:

1. Best time to visit Kibber and Spiti valley in general would be period beginning mid-May, when piped water is available in washroom of the hotels and Homestays.

2. The three hotels / Homestay that author came across in Kibber: Hotel Tashi Zom, Norling Guest House and Norling Homestay.

3. It is better the take services of local guide while undertaking trekking through Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary

Readers who desire to see video clips of Kibber may take the following captioned link:

1)Kibber ata Glance

2)GeteVillage In Early Summer

3)BharalsNear Gete Village

4)Ibexes atKibber Wildlife Sanctuary

* Images by Sachin Vaidya

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Kaza - The Premier Destination In Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh

2014-11-22T21:42:00.000-08:00

By noon of 2^nd May 2014, we left behind Dhankar for our onward journey through Pin valley planning to go as far as Mud. Going down towards the river bed of Spiti valley, we had a break for watching the confluence of rivers Spiti and Pin from Close proximity. Though water volume of both the rivers was low, they had a distinctive color of their own.

Confluence of Spiti & Pin rivers - distant view

Confluence of Spiti & Pin rivers - Close view

As we crossed Attargu bridge and stepped into Pin valley, the topography changed dramatically. On the river side, big chunks of snow melting in early summer added volume of water to the Pin river. The going became somewhat rough through the patches of mud track. The river bed got a lot of silt carried from hills above. The debris getting piled up, it must have been some work to clear the road to keep some of the most remote villages in Pin valley to have its lifeline open.

Snow-melt feeding Pin river

Silt Deposition in Pin valley

Further through the valley, the silting became so much so as to prevent the Pin river from running its natural course and the accumulated water gave rise to a giant lake with even the electric poles found submerged in water. The snow mass floating on water and larger one’s crumbing into different shape made a fascinating sight.

Glacial lake - Pin valley

Snow mass around lake

When we arrived Kungri after deviating from main road and taking a narrow road upwards, the topography changed yet again. It was lively with colorful cottages a midst cultivating plots. The villagers took to their task making use of giant Yaks to plough their fields. We parked our car inside the large monastery compound.

Ploughing plot at Kungri

Tringon guest house

The Monastery area was quite lively with young would be lamas having a game of marble or volleyball. The façade of the entry to new monastery named as Ugyen Sanag Choling monastery is a huge structure with hostel facilities for Lamas and Lama students. The old monastery is a single storied structure and was open for a visit. There was too much snow piled up for negotiating though the compound. Tringon Guest House building looked impressive for tourists who plan to stay overnight.

Old Monastery - Kungri

Ugyen Choling Monastery gate

Entering through the gate, we came to courtyard of the new monastery. The peripheral area having living quarters for lamas and students appeared to be deserted. The monastery itself colorful and elegantly designed structure with glass façade reflecting the snow-capped hills looked awesome. I came out and walked to the left hand side of old monastery to the view point area from where one gets fascinating bird’ eye view of Pin valley. Pin river flowing in serpentine manner in between heavily snow-covered area, with the backdrop of snow splattered hills. There is safety railing at the edge to make it safe for visitors.

Ugyen Choling Monastery - Kungri

Pin Valley view from Kungri

Nearing Sagnam, we had a break to view at a distance, the Pin Structure in Khar village. Possibly the name of Pin river and Pin valley has its origin here. Crossing the bridge, the last lap of the journey to Sagnam on a plateau with fresh snow in all direction took us to snow-land. The barren trees and occasional cottages gave a dimension to the scenario.

Pin structure at Khar - Pin valley

Bridge to Sagnam - Pin valley

Reaching Sagnam we had a break for lunch at PWD Guest House. The Sagnam village is well spread out, one of the biggest we have seen so far, with large agricultural plots growing green Pea, barley and buck wheat. Villagers keep busy making use of giant Yaks for tilling work. The entire family of villagers seemed to be out there including children. The PWD Rest House, did provide us with lunch, but with no piped water and the wash rooms not being usable, it was not worthwhile staying here. Post lunch we decided to forgo the last 10 km drive to Mud with snow-blocks expected to block the road and deciding in not taking any risk whatsoever. We traveled 36 km to Kaza ( 11,980’), with slight change in itinerary.

Tilling Plots at Sagnam - Pin Valley

PWD Resthouse at Sagnam

Arriving in Kaza by main road, the first hotel we came across was Snow Lion Hotel. With no booking in kitty, we looked around for somebody in reception area. Motubhai – a short medium built guy did not appear to be fat as his name suggests is receptionist-cum-whatever you can think of, gave us a room with balcony overlooking the well spread out Kaza town. Being early season the hotel had just opened six rooms. But, the running water to the town had not resumed so we were to manage with water brought in buckets by hotel staff from a pipeline outside. At Rs. 600/- per day, the room rent appeared to be value for money at that point of time. Sakya monastery located at the diametrically opposite on main road looked the most colorful and imposing in the town. The Hindu temple at slightly higher elevation had some steps to climb. The well spread out town with mostly single and occasional two storied structure serviced by interconnecting roads looked lively.

Kaza town & Sakya monastery

Hindu temple on hill - Kaza

Evening was unwinding time. The dining cum reception area of the hotel has a library with good collection of books and tourists maps to pass time. Most interesting part was a huge collection of fossils behind glass case. Motubhai was chatting away about his experience in locating fossils in his expeditions in higher altitudes every year. After ordering for dinner going towards my room, what caught my attention was a few twigs of plants in compound which were being surrounded by ice blocks. Water being scarce and snow easily available, on a bright sunlit day the ice-melt feeding the plants was a practical solution. The dinner was freshly prepared from vegetables brought from market on same evening by Motubhai himself.

Hotel Snow Lion - Kaza

Ice at roots for moisture - Kaza

Morning of 3^rd May gave us a opportunity to visit higher altitude of Langza (14,520’) and beyond, condition permitting. As we were leaving the fringes of Kaza town, there was a car parked charging some kind of unofficial toll of Rs. 100/-. They gave a receipt which did not make much sense. Going up we got a classic view of Spiti valley in early summer. The patterns of water flow on sand bed and the adjoining topography was any landscape photographer’s delight.

Spiti Valley view from Kaza uphill

Spiti valley view from Kaza uphill

Further up, we were going through snow-line, with scattered snow on both side of the road. The Langza village has a Buddha statue at an higher elevation standing like a lone sentinel with scattered single storied cottages on a flat land bereft of any vegetation. The backdrop of snow splattered hills gave a scenic touch to the village.

Signage - Langza village

Langza village

Going higher up, the snow quantum went on increasing. The car was moving slow through muddy track because of snow melt flowing to the road. To avoid skidding, following the tire-marks was the only option and avoiding snow cover at all cost. We sighted a bulldozer busy in clearing the snow piled up to open up the road to Comic and Hikkim. Here we got stuck up for good. We gathered that the road clearing process was to be completed before 7^th May, the day the Lok Sabha elections were to be held in this region. Leaving with no option but to retreat, we got down from car, walking through mud for taking a few photos.

Road block beyond Langza

Through snow obstacle

Forgoing our journey to Comic and Hikkim, we rued the fact that we were tad early for this kind of an adventure. Ideally one should visit these places after 15^th May. Retreating through mud packed roads was slow and cautious. Reaching Kaza we had lunch and some rest before taking a narrow mud-track suitable for people to save a lot of walking time through the main road. Nearing market place the roads are broader. The tea break at a wayside restaurant and walking through the area having cluster of winter clothing shop, my wish of buying gloves for very low temperature, materialized. Reaching the main road we were in front of Sakya Monastery in no time.

Sakya Monastery

Buddha statue - Sakya monastery

As had been our experience, early summer always greet us with closed doors of Monastery at Himachal. We were contemplating what to do when we found young lama students playing nearby. Inquiry with them revealed that they will be opening the doors for us to view monastery from inside.

Colorful interior - Sakya monastery

Trumpets on display

What a revelation! I have never seen such a colorful, neat, spotlessly clean and exquisite interiors. The golden Buddha statue at the centre surrounded by smaller statues and artifacts made a wonderful décor. The array of musical instruments like trumpets, Drum, conch shells and cymbals were on dispaly – every item neatly arranged had beauty of its own.

Drum, cymbals and conch shells

Cymbals at display

While retreating and trying to take a short cut to go back to hotel at the other extremity, we somehow lost our way and discovered some newer places. One of them was a tree lined road leading our eye to distant hotel named Hotel Winter White appropriately named with a backdrop of snow splattered hills.

Bell at Sakya Monastery

Picture perfect road at Kaza

Next day we left for Kee and Kibber for couple of days (which will be another travel story) before retracing to Kaza yet again for a night halt at same Snow Lion Hotel. The room rent had shot up to Rs.1000/- because of resumption of piped water supply to washrooms. Following day we commenced return journey via Nako in Kinnaur Valley.

Readers can see couple of short videos of Kaza as per the following captioned links:

Kaza at a Glance

Sakya Monastery at Kaza

* Title Image is by Sachin Vaidya: Kaza town as viewed from Hindu temple.

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Dhankar – Destnation on Hill Slope - Spiti, Himachal Pradesh

2014-09-20T10:57:00.001-07:00

Hopping through Himachal in a bid to spend at least one night at all the Spiti Valley destinations, on 1^st May, we had late morning start from Tabo for our second destination Dhankar, some 32 km way. Initial drive took us to the elevation slightly above the valley. At some distance but very clearly visible, the rivers Spiti and Pin encompassing a small island with cottages, were making an early summer effort to mingle with each other carrying very low volume of snow-melt. The sand bed carried the impressions of flow of water taking place on numerous occasions through the season when the course of river varies depending on water volume. The water depth at the moment was not even ankle deep. The backdrop the snow – splattered hills cradling the valley looked great. On right hand side, a section of hill with sheer dark brown vertical cliffs appeared to be of strength and character. Amidst those cliffs, Dhankar monastery looked conspicuous because of the red and white structure clutching the hill side.

Spiti Valley View

Dhankar - A Distant View

The remaining part of the drive to Dhankar was going uphill and watching the grand vista of Spiti valley. The best place to take a picture of confluence of rivers Spiti and Pin was at the 3 km milestone. Moments later, reaching the arched gate of Dhankar dwelling, we were bang in front of New Dhankar Monastery complex. It has a Monastery and a Monastery managed guest house - where we were planning to stay. The place appeared to be desolate and closed like many other places in Spiti valley at this time of the year. Inquiry with a lone villager revealed that accommodation can be had at a home stay facility with waterless toilet. This not being acceptable for us, we decided to change our itinerary and move on with our sightseeing trip to Lalung and then proceed to Kaza.

3 km Mark - Spiti & Pin river Confluence

Entering Dhankar

The drive to Lalung turned out to be mesmerizing with some of the finest views of the valley. The confluence region of Pin and Spiti rivers were visible directly from top. Nearing Lalung we were above the snow-line; on the right side the freshly accumulated snow was at the scooping distance from our seated position in car and on the left astounding visual of snow covered terrain. Lalung is a typical collection of cottages on hill slope. Facing the onslaught of the cold winds was not a very promising thing to do at this site – so, Sachin quickly left for a sightseeing visit to Lalung Gompa and myself just content to lazing seated in the car.

On Way to Lalung

Above Snow - line

On way back to Dhanakar, we were contemplating of giving one more shot for locating the elusive accommodation for the night’s stay. Alternately we could proceed to Kaza, throwing our entire itinerary to toss. As we passed by the New Dhankar complex and proceeded towards the old Dhankar monastery, we halted near a two storied Guest House named Tanzin - depicted on a hardly noticeable weather battered signage. I do not remember how we confronted the owner of the Guest House, it was a coincidence none the less. The person told us that the property owned by him is run by another fellow on out-sourcing basis and being early season he has not yet arrived. Fortunately, he opened a room for us costing Rs. 500/- per night. It was encouraging to get a decent room with attached bath with proper fittings but the water had to be carried from a huge PVC tank located downstairs as the piped water was not available.

Lalung Gompa

Tanzin Guest House

Once we settled down, we were supplied with water through jerry can, which could be used for our washroom needs. The cold and windy conditions in evenings discomforting us, we welcomed invitation for a cup of tea in the warm kitchen. Over a cup of tea, the owner gave us a surprise, which got us thinking once again. Shortly, he was to leave Dhankar for his work site somewhere down-hill. None the less, we were told to make ourselves comfortable. The dinner was to be cooked by us with whatever provision available in the kitchen. It seems only Rajma was available. Our driver was happy to get a chance to try his cooking skills and promised of cooking Rajma curry, Roti and Rice. The kitchen, a medium size room has a gas oven and utensils on one side and on the three sides were bordered with cushions for seating. At the center was located an elliptical shaped drum having a firewood burning arrangement, a pipe for leading out the flue gas and three openings for keeping utensils for heating water. The hot water is used for cooking and other needs. The room itself is kept warm by radiating heat from a metallic outer cover. It took quite some time for our driver to complete the cooking as in high altitudes food takes more time to cook fully. The simple food tasted heavenly to our famished souls.

View from Guest House verandah

New Dhankar Monastery Complex

Morning of 2^nd May saw Sachin taking off for 3 km uphill trek to Dhankar lake along with a local guide. Meanwhile I had kept myself busy shooting some landscapes from comfort of guest house verandah. On right hand side, the the old Dhankar monestary nestled amidst some vertical cliffs, looked daunting enough for a sightseeing. Down the slope in the vegetation – less brown colored mud-stone terrain, the habitation was sprawling with almost identical two storied cottages. Some unmelted snow looked as if valiantly holding on to it’s pristine glory, defying the strong sunlight it was exposed to. It was a matter of time before they also succumbed to the melting process of early summer.

Dhankar Village View

Old Dhankar Gompa & Landscape

I had a walk upto the Gompa gate, not venturing inside. The space to squeeze through did not seem to have a safe and sure footing and looked somewhat scary. Our driver Sohan Singh was content to wash the car near Gompa with a piped water outlet constantly emptying out the snow-melt from higher reaches. I was waiting for Sachin to join me after his trek to Dhankar lake. We had another important journey to do, traveling via the picturesque Pin valley.

Way to Dhankar Lake*

Dhankar Lake*

On his return, Sachin narrated his 3 km Dhankar lake trek details. Content to have a guide who helped him going across through some snow-laden areas, they reached on hill top to see a frozen lake, only expected at this time of the year. The Chorten or Buddhist stupa by the lake side looked elegant. The circumambulation of the lake was not possible because of the scattered snow in all possible directions. Their hasty retreat was to have a brief visit to Old Dhankar Gompa and to pack up for the further journey.

Dhankar Lake View Full*

Loading our luggage on the car, once again, we had a problem in our hand. In the desolate guest house with absence of any staff, We did not know how to pay the room rent the food expenses. On driver’s suggestion we kept the money Rs. 800/- in all on the cooking platform of the kitchen room and heaved a sigh of relief, hoping the owner will receive it when he returned to hotel. Thus we left the guest house all empty for the next group of tourists to hop in. Hoping they do find some soul taking care of the place.

Dhankar Visuals can be accessed by taking the following captioned link:

Dhankar at a Glance

Important Info:

Tourists will do well to visit Dhankar after 7^th of May in early summer so that accommodation is not an issue. The Monastery guest house will be possibly a cheap alternative. We discovered the Tanzin guest house, which happened to be a decent accommodation. With piped water in it may cost about Rs. 800/- per night. Sightseeing would be 5 km drive to Lalung Gompa, 3 km trek to Dhankar Lake and visit to Old as well as new monastery. The Spti valley view with confluence of rivers Spiti and Pin will keep one glued to the site. The Dhankar dwelling being located on hill slope, a lot of walk will be ups and downs. Nature lovers will none the less find this place a worthwhile visit.

* Images by Sachin Vaidya

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Tabo – Our First Destination in Spiti valley – Himachal Pradesh

2014-08-24T23:29:00.003-07:00

On 30^th April 2014, leaving behind Kalpa – the finest of destinations in Kinnaur valley, traveling along NH22, we were looking forward to stepping into Spiti valley at higher elevations and freezing weather in early summer. We had a short break at Rekong Peo for purchasing the essential food items for the journey – mostly fruits and biscuits and ready to eat snacks – one gets every commodity in this place. Crossing Poari, our car had a sudden halt behind a few cars overlooking a lot of activity on road ahead. Boulders and rocks of various sizes fallen from the hills cluttered on a large area were holding up traffic at both ends. A bulldozer was in action nudging loose rocks from the hill slope, making them fall and pushing them towards the road edge and giving them a shove. It was fascinating to watch them rolling down the hill slope, thousand feet deep down the gorge, raising a lot of dust, finally landing by the side of flowing Sutlej river.

Road Clearing after Poari

Confluence - Sutlej & Spiti, Khab

Post noon, we had a break near Khab at the confluence of rivers Sutlej & Spiti, with rivers carrying lot of silt had but still with a distinct identity of their own. A good half an hour later we were on the usual winding hill road and a break in early afternoon providing us with a good opportunity to stretch our legs and watch the serpentine roads at different elevations. The roaring Spiti river flowing down below in a deep gorge kept us glued at the spot for some moments.

Spiti river view nearing Nako

Landscape nearing Nako

Climbing higher, we were still in Kinnaur valley with none of its usual greenery – only stark mountains carrying snow from the previous winter. Watching the hills getting larger and covering almost the entire panorama; it was landscape at its best. Nearing Nako, the dark soil in agri-plots was being readied for potato cultivation. Nako potatoes are famous for their giant size and some of them weighing even up to 1 kg and having a good export market. Although Nako lake was only about one km away, as per our itinerary, we were to visit this destination during our return trip from Kaza.

Potato fields nearing Nako

Potato fields Close-up

By 5 pm we passed through the arched welcome gate of Gue village. Here the Tibetan Monk Mummy encased in a glass casket and installed inside single storied Bhavan is a tourist attraction. Normally the doors to the Bhavan are locked. When entering the village, our driver did not forget to inform the villagers our intention of seeing Gue Mummy from close proximity. A kid with the keys to the Bhavan accompanied us in car. He stayed put till our visit was over, to re-lock the doors of the Bhavan and we dropped him back to the village.

Gue village entry gate

Tibetan Monk Mummy

Tabo barely half an hour drive from Gue, we reached our destination in the evening, still some time in our hand before sunset. As planned we straightaway went near the Monastery area looking for accommodation in Millennium Guest house managed by Tabo monastery. The place was open but not a single soul was visible. That was disappointing. We could see one more hotel but to our dismay that was also closed. The only course left for us to go to Hotel Dewachen Retreat, a pricey hotel as found by us from net, who open up their property in April onwards. The rooms costing Rs. 4000/- plus per day was not what we ever imagined we would have to shell out. We had some difficulty in tracing this hotel, which we passed by earlier. One villager gave us a clue and told us to find it next to Theka (a country liquer joint )

We entered through the exquisitely carved doors of a wonderful looking single storied hotel, with a grand foyer. We were welcomed by the manager and he told us that rooms are available and he would charge Rs. 2000/- per day at a discounted rate, since the piped water supply was not available. Having no choice but to check in to spend the night, a final bargain price of Rs. 1600/- was agreed upon and we stepped into the room with good ambience – the only deficiency was piped water, which were offered through buckets. Sachin lost no time in preparing for our daily fruit break before dinner. The dinner at the basement dining hall was simple but tasty vegetarian fare.

Hotel Dewachen Retreat

Rear view from Hotel

Next morning we were woken up by constant chattering of sparrows on the tree in the compound. This town has too many of these birds. Every housetop having a layer of hay on roof, they find it easy to squeeze in for dwelling. The vista from rear verandah looked great with distant view of Monastery, temples and chortens (stupas) with a foreground having vast tract of cultivation plots. Early summer has its own beauty of splattered snow on distant hills not yet melted to reveal its rugged surface. The electricity being quite dependable in Himachal so far, I lost no time to get my electric kettle going to heat water for my cup of instant tea. A morning walk is lively in any Himalayan destination. This place was no exception. A short walk on main road and then a shortcut through mud-tracks behind the hotel landed us in no time in the monastery compound. There are several temples and mud plastered Chortens (stupas)depicting a mix of old and new architecture.

Monastery Compound Gate

Mud plastered Chorten ( Stupa )

After breakfast it was time for Sachin to trek to Cave shrine on top of the hill, visible from hotel gate. I had the alternate plan of visiting Tabo village for a leisurely walk and watch the village life from close proximity. Snow melting process starting in early summer, the villagers were found busy on agri-plots, shoveling or digging through the soil and also guiding bullocks in cultivating the field.

Tabo village

Greenhouse - Tabo village

A greenhouse had a woman filling the dark soil in plastic bags as a daily chore. The enclosed place has flowering plants, spinach saplings and tiny plants as a part of raising the plants in the initial days without getting the onslaught of cold weather and windy conditions outdoors and also not to get chewed by herbivores. The valley has a large watery area created out of snow melt and also serves as water for agri-plots and non-potable water requirements of habitants of Tabo.

Villager at Work

Cultivation of plot

Sachin returrning from his trek, narrates his experience of trek to cave shrine. In his words, “Tabo Monastery is famous all over the world for its sculptures and paintings. When Spiti was still closed for tourists in 1970s, there was a massive earthquake in Spiti. The earthquake severally damaged houses, temples, and monasteries in Spiti. We have no clue which part of Tabo Monastery is old and which is rebuilt. During old days due to severe winter, monks used to abandon the Monastery for many days and stay at the caves. However due to ‘modernization’ and availability of better facilities, the practice had been discontinued.

*View from top

*Nearing cave shrine

Tabo Caves are on left side of the road while travelling from Kinnaur. Cemented steps have been built to visit the caves. Some caves are very small with slippery path off the main cemented stepped road; hence I did not visit them. Other caves were approachable via cemented steps and I visited them. These caves had been converted into small shrines with doors and ceiling. Entry to these shrines was only up to the assembly / prayer hall; inside rooms were locked. As per printed travel guide, Pho Gompa was the major shrine; however, there was no indication at the site. Answer to many questions [(such as) how many days the monks used to stay at caves, how they used to live, remain unanswered.”

Readers can also watch the visuals on Tabo as per the following captioned linK:

Tabo at a Glance

* Images by Sachin Vaidya

Important Info:

In Spiti valley, Tabo will rank as a destination, almost on flat ground without those going ups and downs and exerting oneself. Local village is a lively walk for observing the lifestyle of local villagers. Monastery, temples and Stupas are worthwhile spending some time. There are not too many accommodations for the tourists. The Millenium guest house managed by Monastery is perhaps cheapest with reasonable accommodation and simple food at a cost of around Rs. 400/- per day. It would in certainly be available in mid-May onwards. A few hotels managed privately owners will also be available around the same time. Only Dewachen Retreat – a top of the line accommodation is available from April. Piped water at Tabo will be available from 5^th May onwards. The room costs Rs. 4000/- plus once piped water is available. Dewachen Retreat can be booked by contacting Mr. Rajinder Bodh on mobile no (0)9459566689, hotel mobile no. (0)94598 83443.

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Kalpa In Flowering Season - Himachal Pradesh

2014-07-29T22:54:00.001-07:00

Visiting Kalpa in end April, as a part of my Kinnaur & Spiti valley tour itinerary, did not happen as per preference but due to other commitments in peak summer. None the less, Kalpa had to happen as my trip to the same destination in June 2013 was aborted due to road collapsing in Kinnaur region. In the same year our hotel booking at Kalpa with advance payments remained unclaimed in spite of some efforts. One more effort at contacting Hotel The Grand Shangrila for adjustments of our impending hotel bills, in case our visit to Kalpa in 2014 materializes, met with a favorable response. So, it was worthwhile undertaking a full days road travel from Narkanda to Kalpa by NH22 on 28^th April.

Mini - tunnel after Rampur

Nathpa Jakhri Dam

Journey from Narkanda was not through some good roads till we passed by Rampur. After last year’s devastation, the roads were made vehicle worthy but the asphalting was yet to be done to make the ride smooth. By 1 pm, we passed through a mini – tunnel, a natural formation in hill with a giant hole covering entire road surface barely allowing the vehicles to go through. At 1.45 pm we had a fruitful halt for savoring some views of Nathpa Jakhri Dam & Hydro Project over river Sutlej.

Driving on, at 3.30 pm, Shongtong – Karcham Hydro Power Project with construction activities could be seen at Shongtong. The site on the highway covering a wide area was occupied by a number of bulldozers and the activity left a lot of dust on road surface and the vehicle was caked with dust. We endured the journey by closing the car windows. By late afternoon at 4.30 pm, about to reach Rekong Peo, the scenario changed dramatically. The pine trees on both sides of the road, the nearby hills with dense green foliage and at a distance the glistening snow-covered hills were simply heavenly. That really got us enthused for rest of the journey.

Shongtong - Karcham Project

Nearing Rekong Peo

We passed through Rekong Peo – district head quarter of Kinnaur. Large number of shops lined across the roads had almost any commodity one wants to purchase. We thought of some shopping on our way back. Some 3 km beyond we came to Kothi village and it was time to take a break near Chadrika Devi Temple. What Kothi scenario appeared in terms of topography turned out to be trailer of what Kalpa offered us as the main fare.

Kothi Chandrika Devi Temple

Kothi Vista

We spent some time in temple compound and our tired eyes had some soothing effect just gazing around. The lush green paddy field next to temple had apple and cherry trees planted at regular spacing. The trees were full of flowers and bees humming around gave us the first impression of what flowering of fruit trees in this season is all about. In addition, the backdrop of snow – splattered Himalayan peaks would make Kothi village a lovely place to stay if it had any hotel accommodations.

Cherry Blossom at Kothi

Apple Flowers at Kothi

As we neared Kalpa, it was apple orchards on both side of the road. Late April/early May turned out to be the peak flowering season for fruit trees. Sunlit day and deep blue sky made all the colors in nature saturated - the white and pink colors of fruit blossoms dominating, the snow peaks more prominent as if one could touch it.

The Hotel Grand Shangrila

Kalpa Landscape

The hotel Grand Shangrila was off Roghi road and it was a small walk between the apple orchards. As we were allotted room no. 304 – a suite room, it was a bit disappointing as the adjoining tall tree in compound did not give the perfect view of Himalayan ranges to suit my photography needs. Fortunately, I could get it exchanged for Room 201 albeit a smaller room with a clear view of mountains. The hotel being a 5 storied structure, the upper floors offer better views. We savored the apple juice provided by the management on 5^th Floor seated on balcony overseeing the Kinnaur Kailash and other Himalayan peaks.

Sunset View Kinnaur Kailash

Sunset View Jorkanden

Around 6 pm we were back to room and got ready for watching a glorious sunset view of Kinnaur Kailash, Jorkanden and Ralden and the tiny Shivling. On a near perfect day with a trace of cloud, it was a spectacle which lasted 7 – 8 minutes taking our breath away and sheer bonanza in terms stills and video clips.

Sunrise View

Shivling at Sunrise

Next morning getting up before the crack of dawn to watch the Sunrise progressively, was a chilly but exciting fare. The pristine glory of Himalayas could be seen in light gray shade before the crack of dawn. It was some minutes after 5 am when the birds came on with their daily calls and the pink glow could be seen on some of the snow-peaks. The sun god made a glorious entry to herald a new day.

Vanvihar Map

Vanvihar trail

The entire day being a packed program, I had about a km early morning walk to Vanvihar gate for a casual walk through the conserved forested area. The narrow walkway covers a large area with cemented resting places at regular intervals for the tired tourists.

After a good breakfast under our belt, the 5 km drive to Roghi village was my next sight-seeing program. (As I took to road, my friend Sachin hired a guide to take him to Chakha by trekking along the water channel opposite our hotel on Roghi road.) Nearing Roghi we had a halt at a place called 'suicide point'. Seen as side view, a continuous vertical fall of thousand feet is scary. It was some photo shooting at the spot for the National Highway and Sutlej river down the gorge.

Suicide Point

Highway & Sutlej river

Parking car at entry of Roghi village, I took off for a leisurely walk through the village. The narrow stepped path going down with cottages on both sides and a water drain by the roadside meant for conveying the snow-melt from the hills and also augment it with water raised by tube-well for cultivating agricultural plots below the village. In mid-morning not many people were visible in village. Most of them would be busy at the agri-plots or other activities. Sighting a villager climbing up, I managed to encounter him for some info on the village. On inquiry, he said that there are about 150 people in the village engaged mostly working in cultivation plots. At distance blooming fruit orchards could be seen which made this time of the year special in this region.

Roghi Village View

Narayan Devta Temple

Some distance down the slope, a large compound had a cluster of wooden carved structures with an old looking Narayan Devta stone temple, which was closed. A three storied hotel building was under construction and did not really look at sync with the village habitation. The typical village cottages with cows and fodder in the front yard and backdrop of snow peaks of Kinnaur Kailash and Jorkanden looked as magnificent as seen from Kalpa.

Mid, Jorkanden, Rt. Kinnaur Kailash

Shivling at Noon

Driving back to Kalpa and a bite to eat for lunch at Hotel and weather holding, I did not miss out on some more shots of Kinnaur Kailash, Jorkanden and Shivling. In a clear day Shivling color changes from morning till evening, had around noon time, a brownish glow.

Buddhist Temple

Hindu Temple

Afternoon was ideal for taking a stroll to market place not too far; it is easier to go via a short cut route than taking the car and we reached in no time. Without distraction of our attention to the shops, most of them being closed, we headed straight for the Buddha statue at road level and the temple situated on an elevated land along the with a row of prayer wheels. The young school children playing with a cloth ball on the large empty space and their running, shouting and excitement filled up the otherwise serene and calm environs. The snow peaks looked as majestic as ever. At the adjoining plot a Hindu temple with Kinnauri type architecture exquisitely wood carved was worth a close scrutiny. The temple has its own rules and regulations very conspicuous on signage.

Back to hotel, it was nice to meet Mr. Prithvi Negi, the owner who shared his experience of running a hotel in this town. The year before was a bad year because of devastation in Kalpa with extensive damage to his apple orchard. But taking things in stride, he and his young team is trying to make a best of this year. The extensive renovation of the hotel with some exquisite wooden carved doors and panels for hotel was the testimony to the kind of resolve he has, to make it the best property in Kalpa. Another bottle of choicest apple juice as a gift from him and we came to room to just relax and share out experience of the day.

Sachin narrated his adventurous trek to Chakha in morning when I had parted company with him and visited Roghi village. In Sachin’s words, “Guide for Chakha trek arranged the previous day by the hotel manager kept me waiting till about 10 am. We came to the Roghi road and crossed over to reach water channel on the foot track going up. We were required to follow this narrow stream which is nothing but the snow melt from higher altitudes. This water source serves the Kalpa town well. Being early summer there was a lot of scattered snow as we climbed up. The service of guide was definitely useful for negotiating through the snow. The bird’s view of Kalpa town looks quite impressive as we ascend. The mountains of Kinnaur Kailash and Jorkanden and other snow peaks looms large seeing though the pine trees. The wild flowers of a few kind appearing at regular intervals looked colorful and fresh.

*Water Channel on Chakha Trek

*Kalpa View on Chakha Trek

I have seen a few water mills in Himalayas in the past; however during this trek, I could actually see it being operated by a man making flour out of grains. My guide told that villagers bring their grains for converting it into flour and instead of paying in cash, they pay part of the flour to the owner-cum-operator. By mid-day the path upwards was totally covered with snow. So, we could not go up any further and decided to retreat. After an hour and half I was back to hotel for a late lunch."

*Wild Flower on Chakha Trek

*Snow mass on Chakha Trek

On 30^th April early morning, we were fortunate to get yet another grand sunrise visual. As the day breaks, we got ready to hit the trail again to reach our next destination Tabo in the Spiti valley.

Following Kalpa visuals may interest you as per the captioned link:

1. Kalpa at a Glance

2. Sunrise View From Kalpa

3. SunsetView From Kalpa

4. Roghi Village

5. Chakha Trek

6. Narkandato Kalpa Drive

Kalpa Info:

Accommodation

The best possible hotel in terms of ambiance, room size and mountain view would be Hotel The Grand Shangrila. The best rooms in terms of Himalayan view would be 201, 301, 401 in that order. In terms of room size, best will be suite rooms 204, 304, 404. These rooms barring Room 404 has a tall tree blocking some of the Himalayan view. The back facing room does not have much to choose from and are mostly availed at a cheaper cost. Room costing is as per the floor height - the higher floor rooms progressively costing more. There being no lift one will have to be prepared to climb for upper floors. For availing front facing rooms ( Kinnaur Kailash view ), advance booking may be necessary. Mr. Prithvi Negi can be contacted on telephone: 098056-95423,094187-03988.

Sight-seeing:

The sight-seeing places in and around Kalpa are 1) The Grand view of Himalayas with principal peaks, Kinnaur Kailash, Jorkanden and Ralden 2) Buddhist temple & Hindu temple at the market 1 km 3) Vanvihar 1 km for a leisurely walk in wooded area 4)Kothi village 5 km drive for Chandrika Devi Temple & Vista 5)Roghi 5 km drive for leisurely walk in village 6) Suicide point view on way to Roghi 7) Trek to Chakha 3 km up along the water channel. 8) For shopping, Rekong Peo 10 km drive.

* Images by Sachin Vaidya

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Narkanda In Early Summer – Himachal Pradesh

2014-05-29T03:32:00.000-07:00

Some minutes before Noon of 27^th April 2014, found us at Chandigarh airport on a bright sunlit day, to begin our journey through Kinnaur and Spiti regions of Himachal Pradesh. As we get a pick-up in an air-conditioned Innova and cruise through some of the finest roads on NH22, I reminisce about our maiden journey through Himachal in the month of June a year ago. The extreme vagaries of weather then, with downpour and rock slides, a large tract of hill roads caving in or dispersed with builders, disrupting the Kinnaur region road traffic for months thereafter. Thus our itinerary went for a toss and we missed going to some of the famous destinations in Kinnaur. This year we aimed to visit those left out destinations as well as to cover almost all of Spiti valley. Will weather god cooperate this time?

From Chandigarh by NH22

HPTDC Hotel Hatu

After three and half hours of taking to the road we take a break at Shimla and have a changeover to Tavera vehicle which is much more suited for travel through high altitude of Spiti valley. As per our chalked out program driver Sohan Singh took us to Sankatmochan temple at Shimla. Having visited this temple

complex last year, I just lazed around, allowing my friend Sachin to have a darshan and few pics. Around 5.30 pm we reached the outskirts of Narkanda bazaar. On the right hand side we passed through arched gate, the road going up the hill for about 5 minutes and we were in a large sprawling compound of Himachal Tourism’s Hotel Hatu - named on the highest point at Narkanda i.e. Hatu peak. Noteworthy is Hotel Hatu and Hatu peak are about 7 km apart. Short of time, we dumped our luggage to take a drive to Hatu peak to reach there before sunset. Some distance later, we took to the 6 km narrow winding asphalt road going up the hill, suitable for small car including Gypsy & Tavera. We did not encounter any other car coming up or down on this road. Being early summer and general election in Himachal being about 10 days away, not many tourists ventured. We took a few minutes break to view a small pond and a hut which our driver described as shepherd’s camping site.

Road beginning to Hatu Peak

Shepherds' Camp

There are number of retreats for tourists who can spare more money to stay along this picturesque route. We come across Agaayat vass Retreat’s signage. With no sign of any dwelling around, surely it could be the right place to stay incognito! Narkanda had an extended winter this year, which was very apparent as we passed by snow splattered hill slope and view mounds of accumulated snow along the road side. The shaded area of densely growing trees along the roadside kept the accumulated snow from melting in spite of high temperature in day time.

Signage on way to Hatu Top

Snow laden road

To our dismay the orange hues of setting sun was filtering through the pine trees, making us anxious to reach top as fast as possible. As we finally made our entry on the table land known as Hatu peak, the setting sun was in its final stage of journey near the horizon as if saying ‘adeau’ for another day. After the sun set, the orange hue covering areas above the horizon, we could view the huge amount of snow piled up on one side and on the other the numerous fluttering cloth flags covered fencing leading to the Hatu Mata Mandir. With the gushing wind, it was shivering time combating wind chill factor in our simple jackets. Having reached high altitude of 10,000’plus starting from Mumbai at sea level was a big transition in a single day. How good we are at acclimatizing? Not much discomfort though, up to now.

Sunset Moment at Hatu Peak

Hatu Mata Temple at sunset

Hatu Mata Temple being open for darshan, the intermittent sound of temple bell was perhaps the only sound in this table land barring for gushing wind rustling the temple flag. In fading light we did not get proper view of the grand Himalayan panorama. We needed to scurry back to the car for return journey through unlit winding path for a safe journey. Impressed with the place, we planned to visit Hatu peak yet again the next morning.

Hatu hotel room provided us with clean linen, bedding, quilts and proved to be our liking. The facility of electric heater in the room to combat the extreme chills at night was reassuring. The dinner was ordered one hour in advance and the freshly prepared meal was good and appetizing.

Snow View Panorama

Close-up Snow View

On the second day of our tour on 28^th April, the morning greeted us with a wonderful cloudless sunlit day. The Himalayan Panorama looked majestic from Hatu Hotel and we looked forward to seeing the Himalayan Panorama from Hatu peak. With a quick breakfast under our belt, we headed along the same 6 km route to Hatu peak which we traversed the last evening. The visual this morning on the Hatu peak table land was equally fascinating with foreground splattered with snow, the mid-ground comprising forested areas on hills and on the backdrop the unhindered view of Himalayan panorama. In morning the Hatu Mata temple was covered with plastic sheet. The carvings on temple top looked elegant. We were the only people up there. A small walk on this table land and a few pics later we were back to our hotel to pack up for our day’s journey to Kalpa.

Landscape at Hatu Peak in Morning

Snow View from Hatu Peak

A couple of hours to go before we resumed our journey, I came out of the hotel gate and walked on the cement walking track alongside the hill. The walk through the greens with cooing birds, in comfortable cold climate was invigorating. School children immaculately dressed looked wonderful in their dresses making their way in bold strides. In all my journeys through Himalayas, I do not miss taking some clips of school children. It gives me immense pleasure to see the light of education burning bright in high altitude, inhospitable terrains and backward villages of Himalayas. Some more walk and I had a wonderful view of valley below. The red colored cottages, the apple orchards and dense tree covered hills gives one a picture post card like beauty. Narkanda will remain one of my immensely liked destinations in Himachal.

School Children in morning

Valley view from Narkanda

AS I picked up on my packing work a chance look through the window caught my attention of a couple of birds feeding amidst grass in lawn - looking like sparrows but larger in size and striations at the throat - breast area (as found out later from net, they happened to be of Pipit specie resembling Water Pipit). There was time enough for a few clips through my Handycam. The birds finishing with their feed were gone to another feeding location and we took to our car for next part of our journey to Kalpa.

It is my pleasure to give visuals to my readers in form of clips I took at Narkanda through the following captioned link:

1. Hatu Mata Mandir at Sunset

2. Narkanda at a Glance

3. HPTDC Hotel Hatu

4. Water Pipit - Bird Watch at Narkanda

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First Lap of Maiden Himachal Tour – Shimla, Fagu & Sarahan

2013-11-18T06:21:00.000-08:00

My maiden visit to Himachal Pradesh in June 2013 went awry midway through the trip and the unforgettable second half of the story has been told in earlier blogs. The first part of the trip being smooth sailing, it is worthwhile recounting it now. Arriving Chandigarh airport from Mumbai in morning of 12^th June, expecting a hot and dry weather and not finding it, was a pleasant surprise. Our hired car driver dutifully came to receive us at airport, hauling a part of our luggage, informed us that the rainfall the day before made the climate pleasant for the trip ahead. Settling down in front seat of Tavera, with my two travel mates occupying back seat, we were cruising through National Highway NH 22. We had our first break near a road side eatery after passing through Kalka. We had a bite to eat and picked up some mineral water bottles. Some tourists prefer traveling Kalka – Shimla sector by rail route to enjoy the toy train ride.

By 2.15 pm, after a smooth four hours drive, we reached outskirts of Shimla town, with driver announcing that we have reached our first sightseeing place at Shimla – Sri Sankatmochan Hanuman Mandir. We eagerly disembarked for half an hour break to visit a few temples in a large compound. The view of Shimla town situated in slopes of the hill looked gorgeous. However, we had decided to pass through Shimla town, taking breaks at a few sightseeing places on way to Fagu for the night halt.

Sri Sankatmochan Hanuman Mandir

Shimla - the summer capital of British India and now capital of Himachal Pradesh, has no dearth of civil construction going on over the years resulting in schools, colleges, reputed educational institutions, hotels and private houses. The busy roads, bazaars and the pine trees lining the roads and colorful houses in hill slope keeps one glued to the scene. Our driver parked the car somewhere near Lakra Bazar and we were asked to foot it out to the Mall supposed to be happening place at Shimla. Window shopping during our walk, we let ourselves in a small restaurant and had Veg. Momos and tea to wash it down. My two travel-mates made purchase of Himachali cap from shops stocking clothing items. A short walk and we were climbing a narrow gradient towards the Mall. The sheer variety of fresh and juicy fruits by the roadside made us purchase some for our day’s consumption. The fruit season in summer having started in lower altitudes, the assorted fruits - cherry, peach, plum and apricots from hills and a mix of other fruits like Papaya, Bananas and water melons from plains; the vendor made a brisk business.

Assorted Fruits

Arriving at Mall we were in a huge open area bereft of any vehicular traffic, humming with various human activities. The statue of Dr. Y.S. Parmar founder of State of Himachal in a small park is an input to our knowledge base. In the same garden, local photographers were doing brisk business by attiring tourists in traditional Himachali dresses and taking memorable photo shoot. The tourists, on their part, did not feel shy of giving happy, cheerful poses.

Dr. Y. S. Parmar statue

Memory Photo Shoot

A few good restaurants like Punjabi Rasoi, Goofa and Ashiana ( Himachal Tourism ) and Ashiana Restaurant were inviting but we resisted our temptation. However, I could not deprive myself of apple juice drink from HPMC apple juice outlet.

HPMC Apple juice outlet

Shimla Mall View

Walking along aimlessly, like other few hundred tourists, we came across a huge auditorium which was staging shows by magician Samrat Shankar. The Punjabi Rasoi located in large area was holding a food festival with the list of delicacies luring the patrons which we casually glanced and moved on. The view of the Shimla town on hill slopes looked charming. The downhill roadside had vendors selling various memorabilia. We returned back to our car retracing our path through crowded Lakra Bazar, for our onward journey to Fagu for our first night halt in Himachal tour.

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I take the liberty of breaking continuity of my journey recount by including my return journey via Shimla ( so that there is continuity in Shimla story) taking a night halt at Hotel Meridian. Early morning of 25^th June I hired a car to take me to the Upper Bus Terminal for boarding a bus to Chandigarh. A negotiation with the driver for including a sightseeing trip to Jakhu Hill, saw me at the highest location in Shimla town. Before entering through the arched gate to the temple complex, I was warned by the driver to take care of my spectacles, which were prone to be picked by the innumerable monkeys present near temple area. It was drizzling while I took the steps through the tunnel like path. On arriving at the top, one cannot miss the gigantic 108’ Hanuman statue, which was erected in 2010.

The Jakhu Hanuman Mandir is located by the side of a park in calm and serene environs. A dozen of devotees in early morning climbed the steps of the temple to pay their obeisance to Lord Hanuman. The temple looks to be an ancient one with some smaller structures around it.

Hanuman Statue at Jakhu Hill

Jakhu Hanuman Mandir

Finishing my sightseeing, I was in the process to retreating when I happened to see a guy feeding the monkeys in a lawn adjoining the temple. It is a ritual which is followed every morning. Hanuman being the presiding deity of Shimla, his ‘Vanar Sena’ get some special treatment as well!

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We are on the way to Fagu, about 22 km drive from Shimla. Arriving, we check in our ground floor room in Hotel Apple Blossom managed by HPTDC. This could be only hotel worth staying at Fagu - a sparsely populated hill station. Some avoid staying at Shimla because of it being a crowded bustling capital city of Himachal – akin to staying in a big town in plains. A few days halt at Fagu enables one to see all of Shimla driving to and fro yet not taking too much of his time. The large open space in the hotel compound as we come out through side gate is conducive for pleasure walk and see the Himalayas on a clear day. Some take their cup of tea and morning breakfast seated on steel chairs soaking into nature. Down below in lower altitudes, the scenery is enchanting with villages having terraced agri-plots and apple plantations. Some apple plants are covered with nettings to protect the fruits from damage by vagaries of freak weather. The not so distant Jai Ma Durga temple looks imposing which we plan to visit the next day.

The Apple Blossom

Jai Ma Durga Mandir

Snow View from Fagu

Landscape at Fagu

The next morning a short walk on the back portion of hotel takes us to a few shops located in a small market place for some purchases. Some distance away we visit the Durga Mandir by going through the arched gate and climbing some steps. We had the darshan of Ma Durga deity through the grilled door which was locked. The climate looked a little cloudy but rainless; it was a good sign for our onward trip to Sarahan.

By 11 am we were on way to Sarahan a distance of 107 km. After about 40 km drive on the NH 22 ( also called Hindustan – Tibet road), we pass through the township of Narkanda. This is yet another place where tourist can stay in peaceful environs in order to escape the crowded Shimla. We included a stay at this place in our return journey and do some sightseeing as well. Some distance later, a number fruit bearing trees leaning by the side of road with ripe fruits tempted us to take a break. The forbidden fruits namely peaches, tasted more sweet and juicier than normal!

Apple tree

Yellow peach

Red Peach

Sutlej valley

By 12 pm we were passing by Sutlej valley, with river Sutlej, flowing down below the terraced fields at various elevations made the view enchanting.

By 3.30 pm we entered the fringes of Sarahan town. We passed by Bhimakali temple bang in the middle of town and checked in at our allotted room in Green Valley Resort. The hotel is located in slopes of the hill and we were allotted room in floor minus one. The good portion of Himalayan snow view can be seen by just lying down on bed and glancing through open window. The small balcony gives a view of astounding landscape with abundance of greenery and a few colorful houses. The cloudy weather notwithstanding, we had fairly good view of almost all the mountain peaks including Srikhand.

Green Valley Resort

Snow View from Sarahan

Bhimakali temple in early morning

Bhimakali temple in evening

We sauntered to the Bhimakali temple compound by evening. The temples in Himachal have a architecture of their own – a Buddhist influence, shall I say. The temple compound has lodging facilities for tourists. There is a small canteen stocking mineral water, beverages, biscuits and snacks. As customary, we ordered for our dinner in advance. The simple vegetarian meal turned out to be simple, good and economical.

Next morning was a good time to take our sightseeing trip to Bhimakali temple, a five minute walk from hotel. The armed security guards, at first floor of temple structure, ensure that tourists keep all their belongings including bags, wallet, purse, camera and mobile in a free locker provided by temple authorities. Tourists are also required to don a saffron cap provided at same spot, before proceeding to upper floors to visit the temple.

The Srikhand

Shanti Kunj

Common Hoopoe

Yellow Billed Blue Magpie

Still some more time to spend in the morning, I visit The Srikahnd, the single storied hotel run by HPTDC. The hotel looked good with a grand mountain view from back side. A small walk and we were at Maharaja’s palace, named as ‘Shanti Kunj’. The palace looks imposing but out of bound for the tourists. As we enter the arched gate, the compound has good lawn on one side and apple orchard at the other. This is where the huge surprise was waiting. Never thought, I will have extended view of colorful birds like Yellow Billed Blue Magpie and Common Hoopoe right in front of me. It was a great pleasure to capture the activities of the birds in lawns and among the trees for images and videos.

By midmorning we bid good bye to Sarahan for our next destination Rakcham………….

Readers can have visuals of the places visited as per the above blog by taking the following captioned links.

Shimla at a glance

Fagu at a glance

Sarahan at a glance

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Trek to Sangla & Helicopter Evacuation – Kinnaur, Himachal Pradesh

2013-08-29T22:58:00.003-07:00

The saying goes, ‘man proposes and God dispose’. The summer of 2013 will rank as one of the worst experiences to the visitors to Uttarakhand and to lesser extent the neighboring state of Himachal Pradesh. Having watched the extreme vagaries of Himalayan weather, in the same period, from Rakcham in Kinnaur district of Himachal, we were getting restless, unable to start our journey through the blocked roads to Sangla. Sangla was only 14 km, yet so far as there was no sign of road clearing of the huge boulders fallen from hills, for resuming of regular vehicular traffic. Finally, on 20^th June, we were told by hotel manager to trek 14 km to Sangla to avail of the helicopter service for Rampur for further journey. Our tour itinerary having gone haywire did not bother us anymore; we wanted to reach Mumbai - our home town as early as possible.

By 8 am in the morning, biscuit packet and water bottle in me and a porter to carry our back pack, we three were on the weather ravaged road for trek to Sangla. A 14 km down the slope walk through motorable road did not appear too taxing till we approached our first obstacle – road covered by mud, stone and boulders. To our dismay, we had to encounter 7 to 8 more obstacles - noteworthy among them was two uprooted huge pine trees lying across totally blocking the road. We surmounted one by going beneath it’s huge trunk and the other by scaling over. Almost reaching Sangla, the last obstacle was the most difficult one with scattered boulders occupying the entire road width, with a lot of mud entrenched in between, with no easy way to squeeze through. The porter’s advice came handy and commanding all my resources and cautiously on all the fours, by the edge of the road, dragging myself across was really scary and taxing. A minute’s rest thereafter enabled us to recover our wits to cover the final stretch to Sangla bringing us cheers! We were surprised to have made the whole of 14 km in 2 hr and 45 minutes. Following frames show the road blocks we encountered shot by my travel mate S Rajagopal.

Reaching Sangla market, we were waiting for our driver, who started late from Rakcham through an alternate short cut route. He was supposed to meet us and find for us an accommodation at Sangla. Finding no trace of him and our hunger pangs getting preference, we climbed the steps to first floor restaurant in the name of Sonu Tibetan Café and settled down on the verandah overlooking the street, so we could keep an eye on other tourists arriving from Rakcham. Sangla market is one street entity, with all possible types of shops lined up. Our ordered veg. Momo came within no time. As we were digging into our food, in came Sonu the driver and he was tad surprised to see us reach here so early.

Market Place, Sangla

Sangla is a small town with most of it consisting of market place and administrative buildings located some distance away. Most of the good hotels are situated 1 to 2 km from market place. Some shops doubled up as information source for hotel accommodation for tourists. Sonu took us to a shoe shop across the street and the guy made some enquiries telephonically and informed that there were rooms available at Praskash hotel. We took the taxi service offered by same shop and landed atleast two km from market, through the very same road which we traversed earlier on our trek. After dumping our luggage, it was urgent need to book our helicopter service at Tehsildar’s office. We left in post haste taking our driver along in our taxi, who, having kept his vehicle at Rakcham was eager to reach home at Shimla. After crossing the Sangla market we arrived at Tehsildar’s office situated at a higher elevation reached by steps. At the office we found Dy. Tehsildar managing or trying to make a show of managing tourist evacuation by Helicopter. We were told to write our name in a plane paper and it became part of many such papers scattered on his table written by tourist who came earlier. There was no proper registration or date of entry or any receipt of any kind. We were told that there is a huge back log and will be informed telephonically, as and when our turn came which could be after 3 to 4 day. A group of foreign tourists squatting in the same room were assured of a helicopter service the very next day; must be instruction from top administration.

Prakash Hotel, Sangla

Hotel Prakash turned out to be a spacious and comfortable, with entry through dining room. Reception provided us with Room 205 at the rate of Rs. 900/- for a double room plus Rs. 200/- for additional bedding, on first floor with a clear view of Sangla valley on one side and apple orchard on the other. The room had unhindered view of Hills, with snow peaks becoming prominent after the recent snowfall. For a change, our double room was provided with additional bed consisted of folding cot with full beddings, whereas most of the hotels as our experience show, provide with only beddings spread on floor.

Snow View

Coming out of hotel and overlooking the valley is a large open cemented place for tourist to sit and soak into the nature. Two cars were parked, with its 18 inmates staying in the same hotel for past four days. They had their own cook to provide the delicacy with a lot of raw materials carried by them. They were chatting and enjoying but lurking within was the worry that they had no news of their turn coming up for helicopter pick up for further journey to catch train at Kalka. Daily twice a day they made it a ritual to visit Tehsildar’s office for follow up.

Sunset From Sangla

The evening sunset was a spectacle. With the recent unseasonal snowfall, the additional snow-packs on hills reflected the setting sun; it was time to get some footages.

Apple Blossom

Next day dawned into a bright sunlit morning. An early morning walk is the most pleasant experience in the midst of the greeneries at Sangla which the tourist just enjoy. One goes along the main road with both sides full of trees like Apple, Pears , Apricot, Plum and Cherry. The numerous fruit gardens owned by local residents lie in close vicinity, with colorful birds not to be missed. I had a catch of a yellow bird named Indian Golden Oriole during my walk.

Indian Golden Oriole

The breakfast in hotel had a number of good choice menu and cost was most reasonable compared to that I came across other towns in the state. Having settled down, it was time to explore more of the place. A walk of 2 km to market place for purchasing medicines which were supposed to last me upto 20^th June and withdrawing cash from SBI ATM counter was a priority. Sangla in this respect offered basic requirements of every tourist. My two friends walked to Tehsildar’s office for updating on helicopter service. As usual the officer was in no position to guarantee any service immediately. The tourist backlog was in hundreds. Our Rakcham hotel manager had entered our names along with other inmates of his hotel the day before and we were told the serial number of round 142. The helicopter service being erratic, one could not hazard any guess about length of our captivity in this Kinnaur town.

22^nd June was a hugely disappointing day. For the entire day no helicopter flights were seen. The hotel was a scattered with cluster of tourists discussing the bleak prospect of getting out of their forced hibernation. My travel mates were equally anxious contemplating of trekking through the valley for Karcham a distance of 14 km through some unknown terrain. However, I was in no mood to undertake the trek and join them. I had made up my mind to stay put in safety of hotel till I was able to take my helicopter flight. Most of inmates of the hotel were equally worried about their important dates and reluctant to wait for the copter service. All through the travails at Sangla, the long walks through the scenic place, photography and videography kept me somewhat calm.

23^rd June did not bring any cheers either. There was no whining sound from blue sky nor any sign of helicopters. My two travel mates, having made up their mind, hired a porter to take their luggage, set off at 7.30 am in a hired car for a distance of about 5 km from where they were to resume their trek. I gave them company and saw them off upto a point where the road had collapsed, stopping the road bound traffic. They promised to send me the info after reaching Karcham, from where the road were supposed to be in order for further journey.

Back to hotel for hot water bath – thankfully the electricity was restored. As I was loafing around the hotel after breakfast, the Bengali group like other tourists were fidgety and were slowly getting mentally prepared for the trek. By 10 am with still no sign of copter, they could not take it anymore and just boarded their cars and drove off bag and baggage, for a trek to unknown with a hope in heart to come out of the strangle-hold and reach Kalka to catch their train. One could not blame them as they were exasperated of visiting Tehsildar’s office time and again with no assurance of copter flight. The administrative lapses and unsystematic approach by them was apparent. Otherwise, how the group members were stranded in Sangla for past six days?

Loneliness suddenly hits you. The feeling becomes more apparent when you think whether it was a wise decision to stay put in a hotel, which everybody vacated? Around 12 pm, I was having a chat with Mohan Prakash, the young hotel owner who sensing my state of mind asked me to take walk across the slope above hotel Prakash Regency ( another of his newly built luxury hotel ) to pass my time. He also suggested that I should talk to his father who has lived all his life at Sangla and will be able to provide much info for my Sangla blog.

Prakash Regency, Sangla

The fruit orchards and flower garden behind Prakash regency kept me occupied for a while and at around lunch time I was back to hotel and found Mohan Prakash’s father taking his lunch. My conversation with Mr. Om Prakash Aswan Negi on overview of Sangla Social life was very revealing and interesting.

Helicopter Sortie

In afternoon, while resting in my room, I heard the welcome whining sound of helicopter. Peeping through window it was apparent that the helicopter service was resuming. It was 3.30 pm. Our hotel was empty save for me. From other hotels, tourists made their way to helipad some 5 km away. I was not so sure of securing a place in today’s service considering the backlog; the same thought was shared by Mr. Mohan Prakash. In any case I was not in a mood to reach Rampur in evening for undertaking further journey. At 5 pm, Mohan Prakash informed me that there was some chance of getting into today’s flight. However, I had made up my mind of staying for an additional day and check out by next morning. Meanwhile the last helicopter flight left at 5.30 pm. In evening there was info that, at the helipad our names were called for the copter flight, as many tourists had left Sangla by trekking route. Seeing my chance lost, I decided that come what may I must leave Sangla by next morning.

Copter Against Sky

On 24^th I got up early, had a bath, sans breakfast, checked out of hotel to reach helipad by 8 am. Already some 20 tourists were waiting at the helipad gate. Some were coming back after not being able to avail yesterday’s flight and others who were hoping to get into today’s flight. Only 20 tourists were allowed to go right upto the helipad which is situated at a higher elevation and were made to line up on the road around the central landing site. Around 8.30 am we were allowed to go inside and made to sit on a tarpaulin spread on floor near the warehouse like structure. Still, no copter in sight.

Helipad, Sangla

Around 9 am we climbed the stairs to the elevated area and were allowed to wait at a place from where we could see all the action like helicopter landing, tourists boarding and take off. Munching biscuits and just loafing around till about 10.30 am when I could hear the welcome drone of copter sound and gradually to our relief copter landed and immediately huge amount of cargo was removed. Tourists who were lined up were made to board, about 20 of them. After an hour the second sortie also took off.

Helicopter Landed

I was in third list and at 1.30 pm, we were asked to sit near helipad on road. By 2.30 pm copter came and landed. We were seated so near the helipad that, the landing process of copter, rotating blades blowing a storm around it, as if it will blow one away. Seated on the road with my back to the copter, I had to hold tight on my cap lest it gets blown away. The copter rotor coming to standstill, door opened and what followed was unloading of cargos meant for Sangla and beyond.

Tourists In Helicopter

Getting inside the Copter was the most relieving and happy moment of my present trip. The sideways seat inside copter left space in the middle for keeping luggage. After a few minutes, I took off for the first ever copter flight of my life. Flying at low altitude very near to the hill slopes and green cover, view of rivers flowing and narrow hill roads, was a visual worth capturing.

View From Copter

Most of the tourists were shooting through window and enjoying; I had my Handycam busy to capture the exciting half an hour. The slight discomfort could be whining noise of the rotor blade. Reaching Rampur was like coming out of captivity and the roads to lead me for further journey to Shimla.

Sangla Footages can be accessed from following captioned link:

Sangla At A Glance
Sangla Valley View From Road
Helicopter Evacuation From Sangla

Important Informations:

1. Accommodations:

a) Hotel Prakash: Owner – Mohan Prakash

Cell Nos. 098162 83268 / 091805187680 / 0730770 82136

b) Prakash Regency – same as above

c) Shruti Guest House : Owner – Shrawan Kumar

tel:01786 - 241394 Cell: 098165 14461

d) Banjara Camps: Cell Nos. 09816119871 / 09418758111

website: www.banjaracamps.com

2. Sightseeing:

a) Local: Sangla Village & Baspa river: 1/2 km from market

b) Rakcham: 14 km & Chitkul 24 km

3. Communication: BSNL & Airtel network

4. Climate: During Summer May / June, hot during day and pleasant during early morning and evening.

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Rollicking Rakcham & Charming Chitkul – Kinnaur, Himachal

2013-07-25T22:52:00.001-07:00

(My first Himachal Pradesh trip itinerary for exploring Kinnaur district went awry after reaching the miniscule dwelling of scenic Rakcham. From 14^th to 19^th June 2013, we were holed up in hotel room watching vagaries of Himalayan weather. We squeezed in a few hours for a trip to Chitkul - the last village on Indo – China border. The four extra days we spent at Rakcham were eventful. A recap of exciting and anxiety filled sojourn is worthwhile recounting.)

On morning of 12^th June, after reaching Chandigarh by early morning flight from Mumbai and finding our hired Tavera car with driver Sohan Singh, a young Himachali, at airport departure, we were assured of uninterrupted nine days trip of going through our chosen Kinnaur district destinations in Himachal Pradesh.

Without going through my travel stories of first night stay at Fagu and second night at Sarahan, I pick up the threads from the 14^th afternoon at 3.30 pm, when we three reached Hotel Rupin River View at Rakcham. The hotel is ideally located in Baspa valley with it’s unhindered view.

Baspa river view

A refreshing cup of tea was welcome in floor 3 canteen, with a close view of roaring Baspa river flowing by the side of hotel, in a not so deep gorge. Looking at the vertical hill face consisting of jutting rocks, with plentiful of pine trees above and snow on its crown, is best way to get enthused for one’s sojourn for two nights and a full day at his scenic place. Our allotment of floor 2 double room was not to my liking as I had planned to mount my camera tripod in verandah to do some extensive video shooting. With the Apple trees blocking the part of the majestic view, I was keen for a change. As luck would have it, the Owner – Manager Naresh Jishtu re-alloted us room no. 303 on floor 3, with best possible view of the Baspa valley.

Snow view at Rakchan

As my friends Rajagopal and Srikanth were getting ready for evening stroll to explore the valley, I was in the corridor - the rooms lined on one side and fixed glass windows on the other. The giant entry gate to Rakcham from the road would suggest the dwelling across the road as much touted Modern Village established in 2010. The village perched on the slopes of the hill, with beautiful looking houses - mostly wooden, looked too good for villages in the hills of India. Most of the cottages had corrugated sheet roofing and some tiled ones. Solar powered street lights were quite evident. This village was awarded President’s prize as depicted by one of the signage along the roadside. We thought of exploring this village - plastic prohibited smoking banned and liter free, the next day.

Modern Village on hill slope

Coming out of hotel, we were drawn like a magnet towards the Baspa river, a short walk adjoining the apple orchards. We crossed the bridge over the river and came to a tented ‘Kailash view camps.’ Two cars parked there were indicative of families having preferred this accommodation compared to lone hotel where we were holed up.

Kailash View Camp

We walked alongside the river through a mud track, towards upstream and came to another tented camp named Parasol, much bigger and possibly with more amenities. There were a few families occupying the tents. My two friends continued their walk further as I took a break for photo shooting. Very few houses and structures were located in the valley so unlike the hill dwellings I have seen in other hill towns in Himachal as well as other Himalayan states. Even for a cup of tea we had no option anywhere save for the hotel or the tented camps.

Hotel Rupin River View

We returned back to hotel and came to canteen, where it is customary to order food at least an hour in advance, so one is assured of freshly prepared dishes as per the menu. Our choice of vegetables and chapattis were served in due course, while we planned for next day’s program. The climate was becoming chilly at this altitude of 10,000’. So, early to bed and under the quilt was the best possible thing to do. Will I rise early next day to become any wiser?

I woke up in the morning around 5.30 am and came to verandah and was not any wiser looking at the drizzle that made a rhythmic sound on the corrugated roofing just above our room. I just hoped it is a typical Himalayan rain which comes and goes in quick succession in early summer. The monsoon was not due before next month. The Baspa valley, from verandah looked as gorgeous as it can be, flowing downstream from extreme end and breaking into two streams and finally rejoining before the bridge.

The hotel compound had some apple trees and spinach planted around them. The tourists in floor 1 rooms, which is located below the road level, had direct access to the plot.

Bridge over Baspa river

After hot water bath and breakfast under our belt, we were back to our favorite spot near the camp site and took a long walk towards the glacier. Overnight rain made puddles on soft sandy soil. I took a break for photo shooting. One exotic red bird perched on tree along the river bank was inviting to be captured in lens. This place ( Rakcham ) is surely a bird watcher’s delight. We were lucky to have watched half a dozen varieties perched on apple trees, from our hotel room just seated on verandah.

Bird watch

Around 11 am we made our way back to hotel along the asphalted sloping track, the landscape meanwhile changed for a typical rainy day in hills with grey colored moisture bearing clouds caressing the hill top with promise of more rains to come.

Way to hotel

By 11.15 am, Sohan Singh was ready to drive us to Chitkul – the last dwelling on Indian side of Indo – China border. The border is some 80 km from there with no motorable road. One can trek upto 60 km through a scenic mountain route. The drizzle made puddles of water on the road and rain water draining from hill flowing across the road was common but needed careful driving. Right through our trip of 10 km, Baspa river kept us company flowing in a deep gorge in between hills parallel to the road.

Chitkul dwelling

Reaching Chitkul (3050 m), while our car was being parked, we noticed that few more car were already stationed. Later on we came to know they were a group of 18 Bengali tourists from Sangla, who had driven 14 km to Rakcham and then another 10 km to Chitkul for their sightseeing trip. The place looked much densely populated than Rakcham, with nearly a 100 houses including some hotels and a conspicuous looking temple. The population is about 700. We were destined to have our sightseeing trip in drizzle through gloomy and grey looking day.

Chitkul view

As we were nearing temple, sudden warmth filled my heart. A big group of Kinnauri visitors, in small groups, decked up in their traditional dresses and best fineries, lazily strolling as if they were attending some social occasion. As I neared the Chamundeshwari Devi temple ( Devi Ma temple as referred by the locals), a large group of visitors were relishing their breakfast. A giant open air community kitchen was working full swing to cook their late afternoon lunch. Nearby on top of a platform a goat was being de-skinned and dressing done prior to cooking. The Kinnauris are non-vegetarians by their food habits. On auspicious occasions like marriage, in this case, the goat meat is the most preferred.

Kinnauri Couple

The temple compound appeared to be desolate with temple door locked. Along the main road, the roadside trenches built in steps, gave the appearance of an artificial waterfall, with huge amount of gurgling water stream threatening to carry whatever came in its path. Did it rain real heavy up on the hills? It looked ominous!

Chamundeshwari Devi temple

After a short walk on meadows towards the river bank, we decided to scurry back to the vehicle amidst increasing drizzle so as to reach Rakcham earliest. Photographing in drizzle with camera lens getting wet was a risk in itself. On return to hotel, we had a simple lunch and afternoon was spent below the quilt; the chilly and wet weather left us with no other option. Evening was just lazing around, hoping we have a fair weather next day so as to reach Kalpa by afternoon. Yet another early dinner and and early to bed routine to get up early the next day and hoping it for a change makes us wiser in the next morning.

The 16^th morning brought me the surprise of my life and made me actually go dumb. The atmosphere was all gray, with continuous manna from heaven. More rain? Yes. What more? A huge icicle hanging by the corrugated roofing above our room made me look carefully and it was not difficult to decipher that snow was equal constituent of the down pour.

Icicles hanging from roof

The entire topography of Baspa valley had gone for a total transformation. The sudden onset of ‘winter’ conditions in peak summer took even the locals by surprise. They do not remember having ever seeing snowfall in June. The ground already had an inch of snow layer. The wind along with rain and snow made the building structures and tented camps look hazy as if seen through giant netting. Shivering in chilling cold with wind and moisture swept verandah and regretted that I was inadequately prepared to face these conditions. I wondered, “what the tented camp guests will be going through. Tents canvasses with air leaking through slits are no match for this sort of climate.”

Tented camp through snowfall

Coming to the corridor facing the modern village, the cars parked near the hotel entry had a layer of frost on wind shield, bonnet and body. The village houses with corrugated roofing had snow mass hanging and still retaining the shape of corrugations with abstract design of its own.

Frosted Car

Snow mass hanging by roof

Baspa river

Snow covered Pine trees

As per our schedule we got ready to hit the trail for our next destination of Kalpa. But, our destiny took a turn here. At 10 am as we boarded the car with bag and baggage, the manager at hotel door step kept gesticulating to driver suggesting that in the immediate vicinity of Rakcham, the road was blocked with big boulders and cars will not be able to pass. We retreated to our room and resettled to our dismay. Our itinerary had gone for a toss. It took for a while to come to terms with the fact that we would have to wait for a few days till the road blocks were cleared. During lunch, Mr. Saibal Gupta, staying in family room just below the canteen narrated that at night they were jolted out of their sleep by loud noise with boulders falling from hill into the Baspa river and made them scary. Hence they had shifted to another room to floor 1. We too heard the noise and felt the tremors like an earthquake shaking the hotel structure. The rest of the day was spent indoors, chatting, viewing the valley landscape and dreading what morrow will bring. Will the next day give us a fair weather and obstacle free road?

17^th morning dawned with another chilly day, with overnight snowfall intensifying. Rain and snow was lashing across the valley. Not even a square inch of the valley was spared. Our room verandah was wet and had its own share of snow deposits. On ground, Apple tree leaves were loaded with snow. The atmosphere was bleak, gray, chilly and gloomy.

From hotel verandah

Another no electricity and hence bathless day. With the road communication totally disrupted, no chances of raw materials and gas for the hotel canteen. For conserving on fuel, hot water was ruled out. The corridor through which we got our vision from a different angle gave a much bleaker picture. The road had at least 10” of snow. The cars were totally covered with massive deposits. The locals used to such a scenario in winter were out in small number to get on with their activities. The hotel rooms were fully packed with tourists from tented camps having abandoned their cherished accommodation, unable to cope up with chilled air leaking inside.

Braving chill and snow

The colorful modern village with it’s identity written on arched gate for showing its existence was totally obscured. The village was visible through the gray atmosphere, thanks to its colorful houses. The irony is Rakcham in June was considered to be ideal for tourists with a salubrious climate!

Snow laden cars

The lush green valley overnight changed, being dominated with pristine white snow, with brown muddy water of Baspa river breaking the monotony.

Snow laden landscape

Exploring outdoor was ruled out. The excitement of seeing unseasonal snowfall was slowly turning into gloomy thoughts of being stranded. Most of the tourists like us had their itineraries going for a toss. There was some ominous news from state of Uttarakahnd. Flash floods and rain had dealt a huge blow in form of destruction of dwellings and mounting casualties in Himalalayan shrines, mainly Kedarnath. The neighboring state of Himachal had a portion of road stretch between Sangla to Karcham caving in, blocking the entry to National Highway NH 22. There was a talk of helicopter service for evacuation of tourists at Sangla, which has a helipad owned by JP group who are undertaking some dam projects in the state. The state chief Minister himself was stranded at Sangla, during his electioneering for by-election to Lok Sabha seat for which his wife was contesting. There were rumors going on in hotel that at Rakcham where we were holed up will have its helicopter evacuation also.

The next day, 18^th June did not bring in any succor. There was a helicopter winning sound possibly for a recce. Meanwhile at Sangla, the helicopter evacuation had started. Chief Minister after getting stranded for 60 hours was able to take the copter service to Rampur. Sangla was rumored to have 6000 tourists holed up for evacuation. All the hotels were full as reported. So, we were dissuaded from trekking to Sangla for helicopter evacuation. Through the uneventful, boring and anxiety filled day, Nareshji kept on reassuring that roads will reopen in few days.

Way to Modern Village

With snowfall stopping, it was time to have some outdoor exploration. The roads were experiencing water flowing from hill tops and wading in through it meant getting shoes and socks wet. Braving this, a small walk on the asphalted road and we could view the big boulders still obstructing the road. The smaller one’s were moved by villagers by the road side so that it becomes walk worthy. Roaming on main road, we came to a grocery shop selling biscuits, chocolates and tidbits. We could buy butter but no bread was available. My need for batteries for digicam remained a dream. There were a few more grocery shops every 100 m or so. The shop list ends here! A guest house which could become the second accommodation in addition to Rupin river view, was found locked.

Modern village view

Next morning we were in total dark about our further journey to Sangla. News from Sangla was 5/6 helicopter sorties were taking place every day with maximum 20 tourists per sortie, with still a lot of tourists still stranded. I thought of taking a walk through the Modern village, just to break the monotony of the hotel. The hills had drained most of the accumulated water and snow melt and the roads were walk worthy. The sloping road took me through the arched gate for entry to the village. The liter free, clean roads, with houses although closely cramped had a systematic existence of its own. A pink colored meteorological lab looked imposing but was locked.

Meteorological Lab

By 19^th June, we were getting fidgety and wanted to move as early as possible. Chill in the air was really troubling. No sign of electricity returning for that elusive hot water bath. Only solace was we were in comfort of hotel room with Nareshji assuring of running the canteen albeit with limited supplies and dwindling cooking gas supply. How long? That was going on in everybody’s mind. With no sign of motorable road getting cleared, our driver was planning to abandon his car in care of the chowkidar of hotel and move to his native place near Shimla. He even made a trekking trip to Sangla a distance of 14 km and booked his helicopter evacuation sortie. By evening Nareshji informed us that he did not foresee the motorable road opening soon and advised us to trek 14 km downhill to Sangla the next day. We were told to take minimum luggage as helicopter pilot at Sangla did not allow too many luggages. We repacked all our belongings in just one individual backpack, discarding suitcase.

On 20^th June, finally, we were out of Rakcham on way to Sangla ……….

Visuals of Rakcham & Chitkul as I recorded in my Handycam can be seen by taking the following link.

1. Rakcham At A Glance

2. Rakcham Lashed By Unseasonal Snowfall In June
3. Rakcham - Life After Heavy Snowfall
4. Rakcham - Snow Laden Landscape on 18.6.2013

5. Chitkul At A Glance

Important Information on Rakcham:

1. Accomodation:

a) Hotel Rupin river View :

Owner: Naresh Jishtu tel: 098166-86789, 094180-92894

Email: jishtu71@gmail.com, rupinriverview@gmail.com

Website: www.hotelinsangla.com

b) Kailash View Camps :