Tryst with the Shutter Bug!!

'Tis the Season!

2016-12-24T10:17:00.001-05:00

Faith makes all things possible,
Hope makes all things work,
Love makes all things beautiful,
May you have all the three
for this Christmas.

Merry Christmas!!

Bylakuppe - A glimpse into the Tibetan way of life!

2015-02-05T05:30:00.000-05:00

It wasn’t dawn yet as we got off the bus. The bus station seemed quite desolate in the wee small hours of morning. Though mid-March, early morning temperatures were still on the lower side. And unfortunately for us, the bus had been early, contrary to the norm. Hanging around didn’t seem a good idea. A short walk across the road took us to a modest looking hotel and we decided to get some shut-eye.

Couple hours later, when Pattu woke me up, it took me a few minutes to realise we were already in Kushalnagar. The trip had been impetuous. It was Pattu’s idea and here we were on Saturday morning. Refreshed, we checked out of the hotel and grabbed a quick breakfast. The morning was cool and foggy. Our destination Bylakuppe, the relatively unknown Tibetan township in South India, is less than 6 Kms from Kushalnagar but seems a world apart. The gradual change in scenery, long rows of multicolored prayer flags fluttering in the wind and the feeling of being transported to another world added to the mystique and charm.

Bylakuppe, a township in Karnataka, has the second largest Tibetan settlement in India after Dharmasala in Himachal Pradesh. The land was originally leased by the state government to settle some of the Tibetan exiles who came to India in 1959 when the destruction and violent repression in Tibet by the Chinese Liberation Army forced them away. It has now grown into a full-fledged town and home to more than 70,000 Tibetans.

Namdroling Nyingmapa Monastery, the most well-known among the monasteries here, was established by Lama Rinpoche in 1963. It is the largest teaching center of the Nyingma lineage of Tibetan Buddhism in the world. The campus contains well manicured gardens and immaculate buildings. It houses the famous Golden Temple, a library and residential quarters to accommodate all the monks and nuns studying here. A stream of visitors can be seen at the gates in the morning as a sea of maroon and yellow, mostly young students, enter the monastery for morning prayers. The temple is an imposing gold-plated structure built in typical Buddhist style.

Stepping inside the temple, one is greeted by the vibrant hues of exotic red and gold frescos intricately decorated with exotic patterns and murals and gives a peep into Tibetan mythology. Three towering gold-plated statues of Buddha, Padmasambhava and Amitayus grace the altar. The altar is very ornate with spiral columns separating the three idols which are decorated with sculptures of dragons and divine figures. The hall is at its dramatic best when prayer is in session and rings out with drums, gongs, trumpets and the drone of holy chanting by rows upon rows of maroon and yellow clad monks and nuns seated on the floor. The walls are covered in bright murals depicting the life of Buddha, other great teachers and disciples, peaceful deities adorned in silk and white ornaments and wrathful ones wearing skins and bone ornaments.

Behind the temple, just beyond a football field, an old woman shuffled slowly on the paved path rotating the silver prayer wheels which fade in the distance. Devotees perform circumambulation turning the wheels clockwise which as per Buddhist belief is equivalent to actually saying the prayer.

The crowd at Sera Mey Mahayana Monastery was actually much lesser compared to what we saw in Namdroling. We arrived while prayer was in progress and had to wait for a few minutes. After conclusion of prayers, one of the monks led us into the hall. It was a vision in red. The decor was completely different from the Namdroling. Long parallel rows of maroon mattresses with yellow stripes for monks to sit on and pray covered the floor while huge dangling tapesteries made of minutely stitched colourful silk overlapped in a cascade of leaf patterns hang in the central part of the hall. The walls are adorned with beautiful Thangka paintings. This monastery is modeled after the original Sera University in Tibet. To this day, the monastery continues to exist in a typical Tibetan Gelugpa monastic tradition.

The other monasteries include Sakya Monastery, Padma Sang-Ngag Choekhorling and Tashi Lhunpo Monastery. A good time to visit is during the Tibetan New Year, Losar, which usually falls in February or March based on the lunar calendar. The celebrations span almost 2 weeks during which the monastery hosts traditional Lama dances, outside prayers and solemn processions throughout the monastery grounds. Visitors come from near and far, some with devout feelings while others drawn in by its mystic charm. One thing is for sure, all of them get a taste of the Tibetan way of life while still stuck in the souther part of India, some 2500 Kms from actual Tibet.

Hogenakkal Falls - The Niagara of India

2015-01-18T13:01:00.000-05:00

Early March is normally not considered the best season to visit Hogenakkal Falls, but then for a trip with friends such things often don't matter. Known as the Niagara of India, this popular waterfall is located around 46 Kms from the town of Dharmapuri in Tamil Nadu and around 160 Kms from Bangalore. Exactly on the border of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, it can be approached from both sides. So it was kind of funny when we ended up on the Tamil Nadu side after a good scenic drive form Bangalore. It seems the boatmen here adhere to some dressing norms, the ones on our side were dressed in blue while the ones on the opposite bank were attired in yellow.

The name of the waterfall is derived from two Kannada words, hoge which means smoke and kal meaning rocks thereby translating to Smoking Rocks. The Carbonatite rocks at this site are considered to be the oldest of its kind in South Asia. At Hogenakkal, the river Kaveri drops and creates numerous waterfalls as the water cuts through the rocky terrain. The thunderous sound of water crashing down from over 60 feet is something to experience. After this point the river spreads out over a wide area of sandy beaches. With its fame for medicinal baths and coracle boat rides, it is a great draw for tourists.

Boating is a major attraction here. Coracles, locally known as Parisal, are round boats made of bamboo with the bottoms covered by hide or plastic, with a single paddle for steering. We chose a parisal ride and the boatmen took us on a ride through the gorge right up to the waterfalls. He even got the boat under one of the falls. It was quite exhilarating despite the risk of getting my camera drenched. Sitting in the boat, looking at the water and the sky, the great rocky walls rising up on both sides, the play of light on the water surface, the wind, watching patterns, don't be surprised if the tranquility gets you doing a Rodin's The Thinker. As per the boatmen, the water in this channel can be fairly deep, up to 100 feet in places. It’s not unusual to see shops on water as hawkers move around on parisals selling snacks and soft drinks.

One unpleasant experience of the ride is the strong smell of fish that stays with you for almost the whole trip. Fishing is quite popular here and you can get tasty freshly caught river fish deep fried and smeared in all kinds of aromatic spices at reasonable prices. The river water is also considered medicinal and hence many tourists prefer taking a bath post a rejuvenating oil massage. Special bathing enclosures have been created for safety while bathing in the waterfall. Alternately, one can even head out to the sandy beaches for some fun in the moderate currents. Evening, we found ourselves busy taking pictures of the waterfall as the sun gradually sank below the horizon. Almost, lost one of my lenses to a monkey who seemed quite interested in photography.

Dance - The Latino Way!

2015-01-09T15:37:00.000-05:00

It’s amazing to see the growing popularity of Latin American dance forms in India. Sometime back, one of my friends participated in a dance workshop, which included both corporate professionals and students. The workshop culminated in a charity event marked by some spectacular performances by talented dancers.

It was a razzle-dazzle of Salsa dancers and Bachata dancers, while others tripped between Merengue, Cha Cha and Jive. There’s something special about classy dance, sassy music and a spirited audience; all the ingredients of a first-class evening. I have to agree with the Austrian writer Vicki Baum when she says, there are shortcuts to happiness and dancing is one of them.

It's Here Again! Happy New Year!

2014-12-31T13:26:00.000-05:00

Year 2014 has been pretty hectic and sadly I haven’t been much active in the blogosphere. It will be a shame to end the year without even one post. And now, as we get ready to usher in the new year, seems to me the perfect time to rectify this mistake. As folks gather around and celebrate the dawn of the sparkling New Year, here's wishing it brings gifts of joys, good health and cheer. May 2015 greet you with days as fragrant as roses, as colorful as rainbow, as bright as sunshine and as happy and cheerful as a lark. Happy New Year!

Ganesh Chaturthi à la Pottery Town!

2013-09-10T13:02:00.003-04:00

I had been meaning to go to Pottery Town for quite sometime now. But something or the other always came up at the last minute. The last attempt, a week back, had to be cancelled as rain played spoilsport. So this Sunday, I was glad to be finally in Pottery Town despite a not-so-good weather forecast. Pottery Town is a street full of pottery vendors in East Bangalore behind Frazer Town, quite close to the Cantonment Railway Station. It was formed years back when the Government decided to give a piece of land on lease to a group of 60 potter families. The profession has been carried on for more than three generations with currently more than 20 families still in business.

The place provides a great opportunity to see the world of potters and their workmanship. The entire life cycle of pottery can be experienced, right from wheels making pottery to drying them in symmetric way and finally burning them in kilns to make the final product. The pots are then painted using spray paints and kept in shops for sale. Mahendra and I reached the place early, around eight in the morning, hoping to get some pictures of potters turning their wheels and moulding clay into beautiful pots. But we were in for a pleasant surprise.

The whole place was transformed in anticipation of Ganesh Chaturthi which was the next day. Beautiful idols of Lord Ganesha in myriad shapes, sizes and colors, each depicting the Lord in different poses adorned the streets. Several makeshift tents had scores of completed and work in progress statues with artisans putting finishing touches.

Ganesh Chaturthi, also known as Vinayaka Chaturthi or Vinayaka Chavithi or simply Ganeshotsav, is one of the most joyous of Indian festivals. The day marks the birth of Lord Ganesha, the benign elephant-headed god, considered the destroyer of all evils and harbinger of good luck. Lord Ganesha is the lord of all the good qualities in us. He is also the lord of knowledge and wisdom. It is believed that when we worship Lord Ganesha, all good qualities will blossom in us.

People across the country, and even abroad, celebrate Ganeshotsav with great zeal and passion. But the celebrations are opulent, colourful and elaborate in Mumbai, Pune, Nagpur and the entire coastal belt of Konkan where thousands of small villages annually come alive with the music and lights of Ganeshotsav. In this region, the festivities were started by Lokmanya Bal Gangadhar Tilak, the first popular leader of the Indian Independence Movement, cocking a snook at the then British government. During the British Rule of India, common public was prohibited from gathering in large numbers. Lokmanya Tilak founded the publicly celebrated Ganeshotsav Festival as a means of promoting the dream of Indian Independence, uniting people from diverse groups, and enhancing their sense of social belonging.

Wishing everyone a happy Ganesh Chaturthi! Ganapati Bappa Morya! Mangal Murti Morya!

Celebrating 66 Years of Freedom - Happy Independence Day!

2013-08-17T17:04:00.000-04:00

15 August 1947, India became a free nation. Pandit Nehru's landmark speech captures the essence of the political freedom from the British Empire, "at the stroke of the midnight hour, when the world sleeps, India will awake to life and freedom. A moment comes, which comes but rarely in history, when we step out from the old to the new, when an age ends, and when the soul of a nation, long suppressed, finds utterance."

India did not achieve its independence from the British Empire on a silver platter. It was the culmination of decades of struggle led by revolutionaries like Chandrasekhar Azad, Bhagat Singh, Mahatma Gandhi, Netaji Subhash Chadra Bose and countless others. In those days Indians weren't considered equal to the foreigners who ruled over them in their own country. Today, all Indians enjoy equal rights irrespective of their race or region. We have the freedom of speech and expression, freedom for life and freedom for hope. We owe our freedom to those unsung heroes who made supreme sacrifices in India's freedom struggle so that we grew up in a free country.

On August 15, we celebrated the 67th Independence Day. The Flag hoisting followed by the National Anthem and some cultural programs is the norm. On this day. the whole nation is gripped by a fervent wave of patriotism. Vehicles, public and private, can be seen sporting the national flag as they ply to and fro. Shops which remain open, are usually spruced up in tricolours, some flying the national flag at the shop entrances. Youngsters adorn themselves with the tricolours of the national flag displaying it on scarves, badges, wristbands, hairbands or face paintings. The spirit is reinforced as most television channels start play patriotic movies and songs as a build up to the Independence Day. The whole nation rejoices in happiness and celebration, saluting the ones who made this possible.

Sadly, this euphoric feeling of unity and big hearted patriotism doesn't last more than 24 hours. People get back to their well paying jobs and cozy lifestyles once the fervour wears off. Rakesh Sharma, the first Indian to fly into space, was asked a question on how India looked from space by the then Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He responded, "Saare Jahan Se Acha, Hindusthan Humara!" Given the humble start and plethora of challenges faced by our country, its achievements over the last 66 years are quite remarkable. As a proud Indian, I believe we can be the best. But only if the citizens of this great nation sustain the Independence Day spirit for 365 days of the year. Vande Mataram!

Eid-ul-Fitr - Celebrations in Bangalore!

2013-08-09T16:50:00.000-04:00

I was up today at the crack of dawn, which is rather unusual for me. One of my shutterbug buddies woke me up to join him in capturing the festivities of Eid-ul-Fitr. Yesterday the moon had been sighted. My friend proposed going to Fraser Town where a good gathering was expected. So there I was was sitting huddled in the backseat of his Scooty Pep, quietly chiding myself for forgetting my jacket, as we travelled from BTM to Fraser Town.

In Bangalore, Eid-ul-Fitr is celebrated with great fervour and gaiety. This festival marks the culmination of the fasting month of Ramzan (also known as Ramdan). Eid-ul-Fitr literally means the festival of breaking the fast. During Ramzan, Muslims fast from dawn till sunset with no food or water. The idea behind the fasting is that by experience hunger, they will develop compassion for the less fortunate.

Thousands of Muslims clad in traditional attire trooped to the nearest Idgahs and mosques to offer the special Eid namaaz. Mass prayers were held at mosques. The namaaz was followed by warm exchange of greetings and embrace spreading the message of love and unity.

My friend and I were well in time for the Eid namaaz and got some good pictures. In fact, we had a gala time. An early wake-up meant a rather long day but it has been good fun. Eid Mubarak!

San Jose - Pilgrimage to the Mecca of High-Tech

2013-07-21T04:52:00.001-04:00

Being a part of the Information Technology bandwagon, I have always been fascinated by Silicon Valley, the leading hub for all high-tech innovation and development. So when my friend Sandy moved to San Jose for a few days, I needed no further excuse and immediately planned a weekend visit.

Landing at San Jose airport, I met my engineering room-mate after almost 3 years. We had loads to catch up. Had a fantastic time refreshing college memories…Rourkela days, ragging, Checkpost, Backpost, Sector 2, NAC Market, Ambagan, Radhika, Madhuban, JAM, Thunder, Hexagon…

Renting a car, four of us - Sandy, two of his colleagues and I, set out to explore some of the attractions within 100 miles. The most breathtaking of them was the 17-Mile Drive, a scenic road through Pebble Beach and Pacific Grove on the Monterey Peninsula in California. The road hugs the Pacific coastline for the most past and passes through famous golf courses, sprawling mansions and scenic attractions.

We stopped by at the Lone Cypress, next to a very beautiful golf course. The most photographed tree in North America, a Western icon, it stands on a granite hillside overlooking the Pacific Ocean. This tree is to the Monterey Peninsula what the pyramids are to Egypt, what Eiffel Tower is to Paris. A 250 years old legacy, the cypress has been scarred by fire and for the last 65 years, it has been held in place by half-hidden steel cables.

As a species the Monterey Cypress grows naturally in no place on Earth but around Pebble Beach and Point Lobos making it a rarity. We spent some time in the 5300 acre Del Monte Forest of Monterey Cypress trees before proceeding to Pebble Beach Golf Links, Bird Rock and McAbee Beach. The drive did clarify one thing for me; the Pacific Ocean is not so pacific after all.

Sital Sasthi - The Carnival of Sambalpur

2013-06-24T10:03:00.002-04:00

The carnival of Sital Sasthi is inarguably the most famous festival of Sambalpur, and Western Odisha by extension. A tradition more than 400 years old, today it draws in over a million people. Sital Sasthi is annually held on the sixth day of the bright fortnight of Jyestha. It marks the end of a parched summer season, the scorching heat giving way to cool monsoon showers. Often cited as the biggest carnival in Western Odisha, Sital Sasthi is the celebration of the the celestial wedding of Lord Shiva with Goddess Parvati. Almost all the Shiva temples in the city conduct this divine marriage ceremony but the prominent ones include the Brahmapura temple of Nandapara, Lokanatha Baba temple of Jhaduapara and Jageswara Baba temple of Modipara, the first two have been organizing the festival for centuries.

The divine wedding is performed with all the rites observed in an Odia marriage making it an interesting blend of human and divine rituals. Exactly one month before the wedding Thala Utha is performed, a ritual in which the names of the couple to perform the role of the bride's parents are announced. The five-day festivities begin with Patar Pendi during which the parents of the groom send a formal marriage proposal to the parents of the prospective bride. The groom's party includes his father and seven others who are known as the Sapta Rishi (seven learned men). The Saptarishi are responsible for describing the nature and good characteristics of the groom to the parents of the bride-to-be and convince them to approve the proposal. The father of the groom gives a bundle of Sal leaves (and thus the name Patarpendi) to the prospective in-laws symbolizing the engagement of the two deities.

Wedding invites are dispatched with Lord Narasimha to all the deities in the locality, this ritual being called Nrusingha Niuta. The common man also gets an invite. On the day of the wedding, Lord Shiva arrives at the bride's house in a late-night traditional Odia barajatri procession. Led by Lord Hanuman, the procession is a glittering parade of deities, their temple servitors and local residents accompanied by traditional music from gongs, conchs and trumpets and spectacular fireworks. The in-laws of Lord Shiva take pride in organizing the wedding ceremony with meticulous planning just as any parents would at their daughter’s wedding. The kanyadan of Goddess Parvati performed by her parents is considered a big privilege.

After the marriage ceremony, the newly weds make a journey around town called Nagara Parikrama. The breathtaking finale of the festival is the famous carnival of Sital Sashti. The deities, decked up in richly decorated backgrounds called Parbah, are carried around the city on motorized floats. At crossroads and important places the procession halts and there is extravagant display of fireworks, dancing, drumming and various kinds of merry-making. The procession can extend to almost 5 km.

Close to seven thousand artists from different parts of the country participate in the festivities and showcase their mesmerizing allegorical pageantry in the carnival. Hoards of elaborately costumed dancers parade the streets, some on floats while the others on foot. The performances include traditional dance forms like Bihu from Assam, Gidda from Punjab, Mahadi and Jhumer from Chattisgarh, several local flavours like Ghumra, Dusavatar, Samprada, Dulduli, Ghoda nacha, Bagha nacha, etc as well as modern dance troupes from Kolkata and Raipur. Musicians playing traditional musical instruments as well as modern songs add to the festive environment. Other forms of entertainment include display of martial arts, gymnastics, sword skills, doll dance, etc.

The floats showcasing modern dances with mostly female artists dancing to the beats of popular Bollywood songs is usually the epicenter of the entertainment for the young crowd. Thousands of revellers throng the streets to witness this extravaganza of colour, music and fanfare. It isn't just the performers who get into the spirit of the festivities as the crowd also joins in with equal enthusiasm.

It is said that one gets atonement from all sins if they see the Gods as part of this procession. This draws in lots of devotees whose zeal is undeterred by the scorching heat. The carnival is a part of the culture, the rhythm, the aesthetic language of the region. Following the fiery climax, the curtains come down with the Gods returning to their respective temples.

Dhaulagiri - Viswa Shanti Stupa

2013-06-08T19:20:00.001-04:00

Had a few hours to kill before my flight from Bhubaneswar. So thought of stopping by Dhaulagiri. Dhaulagiri is a small hillock surrounded by plains, around 7 km from the State capital. Dhauli, as it is locally known, is believed to be the place where the famous (or rather infamous) Kalinga war was fought in 260 BC. Over 150,000 lives were lost in the bitter battle. It is said the waters of the nearby river Daya had turned blood red due to the merciless bloodbath.

Despite emerging victorious, the huge loss of life and suffering witnessed in the battlefield transformed King Ashoka from Chandashoka to Dharmashoka, from a tyrant ruler to a benevolent king. He renounced war forever by offering his sword at the feet of Lord Buddha. He embraced Buddhism and became one of its biggest proponents. The king had 84000 stupas built and sent them to places as far as distant Greece with peace messengers. Ashoka The Great is today remembered, among the other things, for his work in establishing peace among nations.

A number of edicts of King Ashoka can be seen engraved on mass of rocks by the road side near the summit of the hill. The edicts are written in Prakrit language, the then language of the common masses, using the Brahmi script. In these edicts, Kind Ashoka has declared his doctrine of paternalism, accepting all men as his children, and urged the administrators to work for the welfare of the common man.

The Shanti Stupa at Dhaulagiri, also known as the Peace Pagoda, is built at the summit of Dhauli hills. It is a dazzling white pagoda symbolizing world peace. The Shanti Stupa was built jointly by the Nipponzan Myohoji, a Japanese Buddhist Sangha founded by Nichidatsu Fujii or Fujii Guruji as he was called, and the Kalinga Nippon Buddha Sangha in 1972.

The pagoda dome has five umbrellas at the top signifying five essential parts of Buddhism. The walls of the pagoda is adorned by beautiful stone panels which included the Bodhi Tree, an elephant procession and King Ashoka offering his sword in front of Lord Buddha.

A Mother's Mantle - St. Mary's Basilica

2013-06-01T09:21:00.000-04:00

Last Sunday while roaming the crowded streets around Commercial Street in Bangalore, we chanced upon the St. Mary's Basilica. Amidst the chaos of Shivajinagar and the bustling Russel Market, the church appears like an oasis: a beautiful immaculate structure, the embodiment of peace and harmony. At twilight, the dipping sun created a nice golden glow in the sky as a backdrop to the church.

Built in Gothic style with stained glass windows, arches and ornamental motifs, the oldest church in the city, it was elevated to the status of a minor basilica in 1973. At present, it's the only basilica in the state of Karnataka and only the sixth in the country.

The church was built from 1856 to 1882 and consecrated in September 1882. Dedicated to Mother Mary, it is famous for St. Mary's feast held every year in the month of September. The festivities, attended by thousands from in and around Bangalore across religions, goes on for 10 days culminating in a grand chariot procession on the last day. Looking forward to attending this festival this year.

The Beauty of Street Photography!

2013-05-07T16:03:00.000-04:00

Street photography is an art almost as old as photography itself. With the advent of portable cameras, photographers began exploring and documenting the world around them, capturing unstaged moments, interpreting life and challenging the perceptions. But I find myself very timid when walking down a street taking pictures of absolute strangers. I start off hesitant clicking a picture here, another there. And soon you will find me clicking away to my heart's content, approaching and talking to strangers, the original misgivings forgotten. I still prefer being invisible; it gets amazing candid shots!

Busy public places are fantastic for street photography as its easier to be invisible in a crowd. In the words of Joel Meyerowitz, "There is something exciting about being in a crowd, in all that chance and change - it's tough out there - but if you can keep paying attention, something will reveal itself - just a split second - and then there's a crazy cockeyed picture."

Madivala market, just a stone's throw from my place, is an ideal location for street photography. Having someone like Pattu along definitely helps soothe the nerves. While shooting on the streets, I find him quietly confident, observing the scene with an open mind ready to capture whatever appears in the viewfinder. He can easily strike a conversation with absolute strangers, complimenting them and requesting permission to take their portrait.

Street photography is all about gestures and expression. Subjects and settings can vary greatly and spontaneity helps. The goal is to tell a story in a single frame, communicate an emotion. Henri Cartier-Bresson, considered the father of modern photojournalism, has opined "Photography is not like painting. There is a creative fraction of a second when you are taking a picture. Your eye must see a composition or an expression that life itself offers you, and you must know with intuition when to click the camera. That is the moment the photographer is creative. Oops! The Moment! Once you miss it, it is gone forever." He termed this the decisive moment. Street photographers strive to capture the life and culture of city streets, searching for the decisive moment.

I normally prefer black and white for this genre as it helps remove any distractions of colour from the frame, allowing the viewer to be more drawn to the subject. The best thing about street photography is that it is possible for the final viewer to see more than the original photographer. There are lots of stories out there waiting to be told. And I am ready with my camera to have some fun!

Gudiya Sambhrama

2013-03-05T08:20:00.000-05:00

With the aim of reviving the fading age old traditions and culture in contemporary society, the Heritage Trust conducts Gudiya Sambhrama, the Bangalore Temple Festival, across different temples in the city. Since its advent in 2010, this annual festival has emerged as one of the city's and probably South India's most innovative and energetic temple festivals.

The event organized across 22 heritage temples, a few of them thousands of years old, endeavors to reverberate the city with traditional dance, music, theatre, puppetry, story-telling and more with artists hailing from all over the country. Traditionally temples have not been limited to only religious activities; they had served as centers of communities for centuries, a platform for performing arts. Gudiya Sambhrama is an attempt to take the classical arts back to the temples and in the process reduce the ever growing chasm between today's generation and our rich culture.

I was lucky to catch the Odissi dance event organized at Sri Siddhivinayaka Devasthana in HSR Layout. All the dancers were from Sharmila Mukerjee's Sanjali Center for Odissi Dance institute in Bangalore. Sharmila Mukerjee, who learnt Odissi dance from the notable guru Kelu Charan Mahapatra, and her troupe kept the audience enthralled with their scintillating performances.

The event was special for me as Odissi dance originated from Odisha, my native state. Considered my many as the oldest surviving dance form of India, it is distinguished from other classical dance forms by the importance it places on the independent movement of head, chest and pelvis, the Tribhangi and the basic square stance known as Chouka which symbolizes Lord Jagannath. The dance is characterized by various stances, called Bhangas, which involve stamping of the foot and striking various postures as seen in Indian sculptures.

Golconda Fort - A Visit!

2013-02-25T16:10:00.001-05:00

I was in Hyderabad last April for a friend's wedding. Being in Hyderabad, I couldn't forgo an opportunity of visiting Golconda Fort. My curiosity was piqued when I came to know many famous gems including the Kohinoor diamond were kept in the vaults of this fort. The head quarters of the Qutb Sahi dynasty, Golkonda fort is among the biggest and most famous fortresses of Southern India.

Easily one of the strongest forts of medieval India, it had three lines of powerful fortification walls with a deep trench surrounding the outer wall. The first line enclosed the town while the second, a double wall ran around the foot of the hill on which the citadel stood. The third line further up the wall is formed by connecting walls of masonry to natural boulders. The outer fortified wall, varying in thickness from 5m to 10m, has 8 gates - Fateh, Bahmani, Mecca, Patancheru, Banjara, Jamali, Naya Qula and Moti.

The outer wall is further strengthened by 87 large bastions present at short intervals. At various places, on the fortified wall, vents can be seen pointing downwards. Soldiers manning guns used to command the foot way immediately below. Teak doors covered with iron sheets and studded with sharp spikes protected the gates. Cannons were pointed at the gate entrance to deter invading enemy soldiers in case they managed to break the gates.

One of the most interesting aspects of Golconda Fort is the signalling system incorporated in its construction. The various edifices are so placed as to transmit sound to different far away points. If one claps standing at the centre of the entrance portal the sound is deflected by the opposite building which is constructed at an angle to the entrance. Similarly, sounds of hands clapped at the entry gate can be heard clearly at the hill top.

Saraswati Puja

2013-02-18T14:55:00.000-05:00

In the eastern parts of India - Odisha and West Bengal, Saraswati Puja is celebrated on Vasanth Panchami (which literally means the fifth day of Spring). Hindus, especially the student community, worship Goddess Saraswati, the goddess of knowledge, with great devotion and reverence. The goddess is also a patron of music, art and science.

I had the good fortune to visit a puja organized last week by the Bengalis in Bangalore (BIB) association. And it did trigger a trip down memory lane. Saraswati Puja is not celebrated in a big way in Bangalore (or I can probably extend it to the whole of South India). But back home, in Odisha, educational institutions across the State will have a festive ambience on this day.

Seeking blessings of the goddess of knowledge, students from primary schools to universities organize the puja with fervor and gaiety. The rituals start early in the morning and last till midday in schools, colleges, coaching centers, community places and households. The environment is abuzz with chanting of mantras by priests and the ringing sounds of conch shells. Students line up to perform pushpanjali, offering flowers to the goddess along with the chanting of mantras. Devotees place books, pens and musical instruments at the feet of the goddess. The worship of books also meant this day has traditionally been a no-study day.

Also, this day is considered auspicious for Vidya Aaramabh or Khadi Chuan, as it is commonly called. Young kids mark the beginning of their academic journey on this day by learning the first letters of the alphabets with the blessings of the goddess.

Happy New Year!

2012-12-31T09:06:00.001-05:00

2013 is coming…
Before 2012 ends,
I wish to thank people who have touched
Various walks of my life,
In their own different ways.
Thoughtful people,
Who have shown their concern,
And have always been there for me.
Do remain so…always.
Take care and thanks once again.
I wish you a great 2013!
Happy New Year!

Merry Christmas!

2012-12-24T13:06:00.001-05:00

Silent night, Silvery snow...
Evergreen tree, bright & aglow...
Christmas is here bringing good cheer...
May it bring for you...
Gifts of love and joy too!
Merry Christmas!!

The Cranky Old Man!

2012-12-16T13:15:00.002-05:00

Feels good to be back after more than 6 months. Haven't had much opportunity of wielding the camera either. But now that, I got around to processing some old pictures, thought of posting this picture of an old man I met during a short visit to Courtallam. He had a shop with a view of the waterfall. My friend and I stepped in for a few minutes and chatted with him while relishing the banana chips he offered us.

The interaction reminded me of a few lines from the beautiful adaptation by David L Griffith of Crabbit Old Woman originally penned down by Phyllis McCormack.

I'm a small child of ten, with a father and mother,
Brothers and sisters, who love one another.
A young boy of sixteen, with wings on his feet,
Dreaming that soon now, a lover he'll meet.
A groom at twenty, my heart gives a leap,
Remembering the vows, that I promised to keep.
At twenty-five, now, I have young of my own,
Who need me to guide, and a secure happy home.
A man of thirty, my young now grown fast,
Bound to each other, with ties that should last.
At forty, my young sons, have grown and are gone,
But my woman is beside me, to see that I don't mourn.
At fifty, once more, babies play 'round my knee,
Again, we know children, my loved one and me.
Dark days are upon me, my wife is now dead,
I look at the future, I shudder with dread.
For my young are all rearing, young of their own,
And I think of the years, and the love that I've known.
I am now an old man, and nature is cruel,
It's jest to make old age, look like a fool.
The body, it crumbles, grace and vigour, depart,
There is now a stone, where I once had a heart.
But inside this old carcass, a young man still dwells,
And now and again, my battered heart swells.
I remember the joys, I remember the pain,
And I'm loving and living, life over again.
I think of the years, all too few, gone too fast,
And accept the stark fact, that nothing can last.
So open your eyes, people, open and see,
Not a cranky old man. Look closer, see, me!

Bannerghatta National Park, Bangalore

2012-05-20T16:38:00.001-04:00

Located on the outskirts of Bangalore, Bannerghatta National Park promises a retreat from the chaotic city life, a rendezvous with nature. It boasts of 25,000 acres of zoological park that includes a Tiger and Lion Reserve, a Butterfly Park and a zoo. Owing to the close proximity to the IT capital of India, it has emerged as a very popular tourist attraction. One of the main attractions is the Grand Safari conducted by KSTDC which includes lion, bear and tiger safari and lasts for one hour.

I recently had an opportunity to try the Grand Safari and will say I am disappointed. I really felt sad at the sorry state of the animals. At the onset, I had imagined the animals in a more natural habitat while the safari progressed in a caged vehicle (that's how I would describe the mesh covered mini-bus that took us through the safari). But it seemed more like a big zoo with wider enclosures. The animals seem more domesticated than wild. There is no thrill or adventure that you normally expect from a jungle safari.

It may have been the wrong time of the year (summer is quite unforgiving in India), but the first thing I noticed was the predominantly brown landscape. In the herbivore enclosure, the deers were feeding on cut grass provided by the park attendants. The bears looked quite lost walking along the barbed wire fence with the unrelenting sun bearing down mercilessly. The only available refuge in the vicinity were small buildings made of brick and mortar like you see in a zoo. The lions looked forlorn in the receding shades of trees stripped bare of its foliage. A white tiger was lying in one of the small pools of water in a desperate bid to cool off the heat. But with such low level of water, I wouldn't be surprised if the water became boiling hot in sometime.

The park attendants in the safari vehicle seemed courteous and waited for everyone to take pictures of the animals. But at times, I felt, they were a bit too obliging. On one occasion, the driver parked the bus next to a bear and started calling out to it loudly so that it may give a better pose for the photographers. No one in the safari seemed to mind this. Instead, everyone seemed more excited at the opportunity to click more pictures. It was sad to see the animals didn't exhibit any of their natural instincts. These animals are in a rather sorry state, reduced to mere performers put on a show for entertaining the visitors.

We event went on a stroll through the zoo and found it over-crowded with visitors. The whole place had an aura of ill-maintenance. The cages were not very well-kept and the animals didn't look much healthy.

Well-connected by bus services, even air-conditioned Volvo buses, that ply between the city of Bangalore and the park, the park seems to be doing well with huge number of daily visitors. However, major improvements are needed in maintenance of the zoo as well as providing a better and more natural habitat to the animals in the reserves. The wilderness may just help them get back their missing wild side.

Courtallam - The Spa of South India

2012-05-06T06:47:00.000-04:00

Located close to the Kerala border, Courtallam will give the feel of just another sleepy little town in southern Tamil Nadu. But despite the predominantly Tamilian population, you can't help notice the influence of the neighbouring state on the construction style of houses in the area. It is around 5 kms from Tenkasi, the nearest big town, and a part of Tirunelveli district. Owing to the multitude of waterfalls and cascades found in the area, Courtallam (or Kuttralam as it is locally called) has earned the title The Spa of South India. A booming tourist influx has spawned numerous health resorts in the area, a few even offering international standard facilities.

I was lucky to visit Kuttralam when attending a friend's wedding. The resort we were put up at was quite near the Main Falls. So we spent a good deal of time by this waterfall and had a leisurely walk through the small market on the way. A festive atmosphere all around, quaint little shops were selling a wide variety of wares, colourful and enticing.

One other popular waterfall we visited was the Five Falls. The water splits into five branches while falling. This seemed to be, by far, the most popular among the bathers. Most people preferred getting an oil massage before taking a dip in the waters. I was surprised to see police presence near the bathing sections but later gathered this is just a precaution to keep crowds in check during the peak season. I had a brush with officialdom when, much to my chagrin and slight bemusement, one of them walked over to me and said, "Either take a bath or go, why are you looking at the waterfall?"

Kuttralam also attracts the devout visitor. Many devotees clad in orange towels can be seen by the waterfalls. They take a dip in the waters before offering their prayers to Lord Kuttraleeshwarar.

Away from the hustle bustle of the city, Kuttralam is a great place to relax and unwind. Endowed with natural beauty, this place is also known as poor man's Ooty. A great place to visit during the monsoons, one must plan to get a soothing oil massage followed by a bath in one of the waterfalls.

The Motorcycle Diaries!!

2012-04-26T16:55:00.001-04:00

One of my earliest memories is standing up in my Dad's scooter, just in front of the seat, on the way to school. Another memory is of an American television series, Street Hawk, which was aired in Doordarshan during those days. The show was about a cop Jessie Mach and a super bike (a government secret project). The tag line used to be, The Man, The Machine…Street Hawk. I would watch mesmerized as the amazing bike performed incredible feats under the helm of its owner. May be it was those formative years, but I love motorcycles. I have always found long rides helpful in clearing my mind and uplifting my mood. Faster, faster and faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death. It has become a lifestyle, a recreation and a way of life.

Even when I was in the States, I opted for a motorcycle. In late fall, sometimes the temperature drops very low. Someone has sagely said, there is cold, and then there is cold on a motorcycle. On a motorcycle, one is acutely aware of the cold. It's like being beaten with cold crowbars while being kicked with cold boots, a bone breaking cold. The wind sucks away all the heat out of the body. Caught in a cold November rain, the drops feel like hundreds of razors cutting my face. I always expect to arrive home with my cheeks and forehead streaked with blood. But that's just an illusion, just the misery of nerves not designed for highway speeds. Still, it's hard to give up my motorcycle in the winter and I will rush to get it on the road again in the spring. Such lapses from sanity are common among motorcyclists. Once you let a motorcycle into your life, you are changed forever.

In States, a few people asked me why I ride a motorcycle and others were curious but too shy to ask. I guess if you ask 10 riders why they bike, you will get 10 different answers. You still won't understand why they bike, until you do. So why do I bike? Lets face it, it's a lot more riskier riding a motorcycle. A motorcycle is more exposed to the elements, less protection from flying debris or even worse other riders and drivers. You have to really try to get a car to tip over, scratching the paint and shattering the side mirrors, something that is a constant danger to a motorcycle.

For most of us who ride, we know this is not the case. Whether it be the wind in your face, the sparkle of polished metal or the pull when you open up the throttle, we all get something profound from riding. It is a romantic notion to straddle fire and steel and forge a path across countryside and cityscapes. A motorcycle is not just a two-wheeled vehicle, the difference between driving a car and riding a motorcycle is the difference between watching TV and actually living your life. Cars are like sealed boxes that transport people from place A to place B, the whole time entombed in stale air, sound insulated, temperature regulated, and smelling of carpets. On a motorcycle, I am alive. The air has substance and weight as I push through it. I can feel the coolness under trees and the warm fingers of sunlight that fall through them. I can see everything up, down and around, a sweeping 360 degrees.

Motorcycles and freedom are synonymous. In films like Easy Rider and The Motorcycle Diaries, they are not just two wheels taking the characters from one place to another, but vehicles propelling them on a journey of self discovery. Another reason which make them an attractive option for travelers. Travel, like riding a motorcycle, takes balance. Balance requires paying attention, seeing the good and the bad. Experiencing both, the beauty and, sometimes, feeling the terror. Keeping balance means not leaning too far one way or the other. Most of all, with both travel or motorcycle riding, to keep your balance, you must keep moving. The ride becomes part of the journey instead of just a way to get to the next place on the map.

A motorcycle summer is priceless. The motorcycle is transformed into a joy machine, a vehicle that transports you to a world of wonders. It's light and dark and shiny, mesmerizing you with its beauty and grace. Cars lie to us and tell us we are safe, powerful, and in control; the air-conditioning fans murmuring empty assurances. Motorcycles are more honest, and often closer to the bitter truth. They tell us we are small and exposed, and probably moving too fast for our own good, but that's no reason not to enjoy every minute of the ride. There’s nothing quite like riding down a deserted road with the wind in your hair. Riding satisfies the three aspects of my life, the spiritual, the mental, and the physical. That is why I bike.

The American journalist and author Hunter Stockton Thompson says it all.

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "Wow! What a Ride!!"

Charlotte Motor Speedway - NASCAR Racing

2012-04-21T06:57:00.000-04:00

Though headquartered in Daytona Beach, Florida, NASCAR has always had a strong bond with North Carolina, especially Charlotte. Even today, all but a handful of NASCAR teams are based in or around Charlotte. Charlotte Motor Speedway hosts some of the more prestigious NASCAR races including the Coca-Cola 600 and Sprint All-Star Race.

Watching a NASCAR race is quite an experience. With the advent of the racing season, thousands of racing fans descend on Charlotte, making it their home for the next couple of months. Camps are set-up, fires lit and the aroma from the cooking pots wafts through. There is a general festive atmosphere all around. If you are in Charlotte during the race season, it's certainly a must see event. And don't forget your ear muffs :)

The Nano Story

2012-04-04T18:26:00.001-04:00

It was winter in Bangalore, the IT Capital of India. Winter drawing to a close, admittedly, seeing that it was almost the mid of January, but the air was still cool and venturing out hadn't started to feel quite like a chore yet. Karnataka boasts of a rich cultural heritage, and I had always wanted to visit the likes of Hampi. This seemed like the perfect opportunity for a weekend getaway. I breached the subject to Ela and, as expected, he was equally enthusiastic. He suggested taking his beloved car for the trip.

Ela had become the proud owner of a Tata Nano recently, and though we never ceased teasing him, he had travelled more than 10,000 kilometers in less than two months. Most of them during weekends on national highways, commuting from Bangalore to his hometown. I was a bit skeptical in the beginning, wondering if the Nano was capable of a trip covering almost 600 kilometers. However, he managed to convince me saying the Nano will only add to the thrill of the expedition.

Our itinerary included driving over to Shravanabelgola, night stop at Hassan and then next day to Halebidu and Belur before starting on our way back to Bangalore. We hadn't put much thought into the planning for the trip. The most we had done was arrange for printouts of the entire route traced on Google Maps.

Me being my usual lazy self, we started from Bangalore post a good lunch on Saturday. We hit a snag when we got caught in traffic on Bannerghatta Road. With a little bit of planning we could have avoided this stretch, but then that's being wise after the event. Once we hit the national highways, we made good progress.

The drive was a treat to the senses. The route passed through lush green forests, rural villages, lakes and paddy fields. Our chatter would have sounded like retro-holiday drivel. We were completely drowned in nature's beauty. John Schindler has said, "How easy and simple it is to live enjoyably when the simple, interminable blue of the sky, with its long wisps of white clouds, become a pleasant thing to behold, a thing of beauty that thrills you every time you care to look skyward."

Making short stops for coffee, coconut water and clicking pictures, we reached our first destination, Shravanabelagola, around four in the evening. It has two adjacent hills - Vindhyagiri and Chadragiri. The statue of Lord Gommateswara Bahubali is on Vindyagiri. At 57 feet, it is the world's largest monolithic statue. To aid climbers, steps are cut directly into the stone face of the hill. Still, it's quite a steep climb. We were completely out of breath by the time we reached the summit and had to stop and take rest for a few mins. The view from the top was breathtaking. It reminded me of a few lines by the reclusive American mystic, Emily Dickinson.

Who has not found the heaven below
Will fail of it above.
God's residence is next to mine
His furniture is love.

We took scores of pictures of the Jain basadi as the sun gradually disappeared behind the horizon. By the time we reached the statue of Lord Bahubali, the gates were being closed for the night. Fortunately for us, the priest was a kindly soul. He allowed us inside and provided a quick guided tour of the place. He even let us take a few shots before escorting us out as the doors were padlocked. We spent some more time on the hillock taking pictures and enjoying the beautiful view as dusk gave in to the darkening sky.

We had food at a roadside dhaba before checking into a hotel in Hassan. By morning nine, we were refreshed and ready to start on the onward journey. Driving through beautiful farmlands, suddenly a streak of purple caught our eyes. To our amazement, we saw some purple coloured flowers being cultivated in a big field. Having come upon an idyllic place, we found ourselves with a yearning to linger. Time stood still as beauty overwhelmed us. Another passing car stopped by, we exchanged greetings and then spent some silent moments clicking away trying to capture the moment.

We reached Halebidu around ten in the morning. The temple here has two adjoining shrines adjacent to each other - Hoyasaleswara and Shantaleswara, both dedicated to Lord Shiva. These temples date back to the 11th century and have never been completed. The city was repeatedly attacked and ransacked by the muslim invader Malik Kafur, leaving it in ruins. Halebid means "City in ruins".

This little town still attracts tourists in droves, and the fact that almost everything is in ruins doesn't seem to matter at all; it only adds to the charisma. This magnificent temple, built of soapstone, is one of the finest example of Hoyasala architecture. Ornate pillars, detailed miniature towers and intricate arrays of stone sculptures which includes elephants, lions, horses and episodes from the Indian mythological epics, Halebidu has everything. Perhaps no other Hoyasala temple is as sculpturally articulate as this is and these sculptures are second to none in all of India. The temple of Halebidu, has been described as an outstanding example of Hindu architecture and as the supreme climax of Indian architecture.

It was two in the afternoon before hunger pangs made us realize the time. We decided to have food in Belur and made the 16 kilometers drive in quick time. After a quick lunch in the Karnataka state run restaurant, we made our way to the Chennakesava temple in Belur. The beautiful Gopuram was the first to meet our sight. The temple in Belur is almost similar to the temple in Halebidu, even belonging to the same period. However, unlike Halebidu, here the shrine is dedicated to Lord Vishu. The architecture is equally impressive with beautiful stone sculptures all around the structure. There are 42 status of sensuous dancing maidens sculpted all around the temple. Walking through the ancient temples will send you through a time warp. Strewn across this land are civilization stunners, not just to be seen as postcards, but to be looked at as inheritances of the future generations given to us for safe keeping.

After taking some sunset shots, we started on the journey back to Bangalore. But our adventure was not over yet. Passing through the dark forest, we suddenly caught sight of a bright glow. Slowing for a closer look, we were astounded to see fire engulfing the surrounding trees in the forest. We soon realized it was not a wild fire running havoc through the forest, but rather one that will burn itself out in sometime. But, this being our first forest fire, we were quite excited and couldn't help stopping to take a few shots. The sight was mesmerizing, watching the yellow red flames quickly lick through the dry underbrush.

It was an incredible experience, travelling to such historic sites in a Nano. Many of my friends are still amazed how our little vehicle could make it through without breaking down. It was only possible due to our determination, carefree and sometimes reckless attitude, a strong zeal for adventure and quiet self-belief. The car lived up to more than our expectations and now I am a happy convert. The most important thing I realized from this trip is if you have a will, there is always a way!!

Toronto, Canada

2012-03-25T02:34:00.000-04:00

Adventure and excitement abounds in Toronto, the provincial capital of Ontario. Located on the north-western shores of Lake Ontario, it is also the largest city in Canada. The city boasts of many top class attractions like CN Tower and Rogers Centre. There is a bustling downtown and superb harbour front with spectacular views.

CN Towers, formerly the world's tallest freestanding building before Burj Khalifa surpassed it in late 2007, is a definite visit while in Toronto. It has a great observation deck with a fantastic 360 degree view. The glass floor can be scary if you are acrophobic, imagine walking on a mere sheet of galss at a height of 342 metres with a clear view of the ground. The elevator is super fast and you will be at the skypod in a jiffy. It is said one can even see the mists of Niagara Falls from the observation deck on a clear day.

A walk down the harbour front is a must while in Toronto. The waterfront is lined with amazing art studios, cafes, bars and shops. The view is spectacular and one can spend the evening browsing or indulging.

Toronto is truly a cosmopolitan city. Nearly half its population was born outside of Canada. The ethnically diverse population ensures there's always plenty of events around the city, catering to the different cultures. I was pleasantly surprised to see a huge Indian population in the city. It also meant I could treat my taste buds to some authentic Indian food outside of the sub-continent.