Tuesday's Ultra Beauty Tips

IS CAFFEINE CAUSING YOU TO SNEEZE PEE?

2018-01-14T15:18:00.000-05:00


Photo Courtesy Richmond Times- Dispatch

Over the years I have grown to have an amazing trust with customers who will ask my opinion or advice about basically ANYTHING. Some of it is not appropriate to mention while other subjects need to come to light- especially if I find the question repeating themselves. Urinary Incontinence is one of those subjects. If it wasn't such a big deal protective briefs like ICON would not be going viral across all ages and demographics.

I decided to turn to Dr. Ciara Marley, one of New York City's Premiere Urologists about this secret issue that seems to inconvenience so many women and she was happy to give everyone a bit of insight about what to do before coming in to see a specialist who really cares such as herself:

By Dr. Ciara Marley

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Thousands of patients annually are plagued by urinary leakage, yet many feel reluctant to raise this sensitive issue with their doctor. Many patients have been led to believe this is a “normal part of the aging process” or “an unavoidable consequence of childbirth”. Although age and child bearing can impact the bladder, this is an area where there are a growing number of treatment options which can improve the quality of life.

It’s critical to understand there are two types of urinary leakage. And it’s important to differentiate between the two as the treatment options depend on the type.

Stress urinary incontinence is the involuntary passage of small amounts of urine that occurs when one laughs, coughs/sneezes or exercises. This is often experienced after pregnancy/childbirth but can also be seen with significant weight gain and conditions associated with chronic pushing/coughing such as chronic constipation or asthma. It may also be more noticeable after the onset of menopause.

Stress urinary incontinence is treated with physical exercises.* When this fails, there are surgical options. Surgery for stress urinary incontinence is an outpatient procedure with excellent outcomes.

Conversely, urgency and urge incontinence is the involuntary passage of urine that is accompanied by the desire to urinate. Individuals feel they are unable to “make it to the toilet in time”. Patients often describe specific triggers, such as “putting a key in their apartment door” or “opening the bathroom stall”. This condition is often more noticeable with age, and is often worsened by bladder irritants. The most common bladder “triggers” are caffeine, tobacco, alcohol and artificial sweetener.

For urgency and urge incontinence, counseling and behavioral modifications are sometimes all that is required to improve bladder symptoms. For some, bladder medications provide relief. There are many medications from which to choose, including a newer medication with fewer side effects. When these options fail to bring relief, patients may choose to have a Botox bladder injection which will relax the bladder and thus prevent the spasms which are responsible for the leakage. Or, they may choose to try a sacroneuromodulator which is a tiny device that sends an electrical impulse to the bladder to prevent involuntary bladder contractions and therefore improve leakage.

In 2018 we are fortunate to have many tools in our armamentarium to offer to those suffering with urinary leakage.

*Try this pelvic exercise: Try and stop the flow of urine midstream. Exhale and try to stop one or two drops of urine. Then hold the contraction for 3 seconds while counting slowly--”one Mississippi, two Mississippi, three Mississippi” then relax. Once you have correctly identified the correct muscles, do this 10 times in a row, 3 times a day for one week. Then progress to a 4 second hold then a 5 second.

__________________________

Dr. Marley is a medical school graduate of the State University of New York in Brooklyn. She holds a Masters Degree in Medical Science from Boston University following her undergraduate degree cum laude at the State University of New York-Albany. Dr. Marley completed three years of general surgery postgraduate training at the New York-Presbyterian Hospital/Lenox Hill Hospital. She completed her Urology Residency at Lenox Hill Hospital with rotations to Memorial Sloan-Kettering, the New York-Presbyterian Hospital and Westchester Medical Center. She then completed a Voiding Dysfunction and Endourology Fellowship Program at the New York-Presbyterian Hospital Columbia University Medical Center. Her primary interests include voiding dysfunction (urinary control issues) and endourology.

Specialities

Voiding dysfunction (urinary control issues)
Pelvic floor reconstruction
Endourology

Office Information:

New York Urological Associates, P.C.

245 East 54th Street #2N

New York, NY 10022

212-570-6800

WHAT IS MADONNA DOING TO HER HANDS?

2016-07-16T17:15:00.002-04:00

Photo Courtesy Second City Style

At this very moment the internet is going crazy over Madonna's unveiling of her hands since generally she has them gloved or creatively concealed. Hands can be one of those tough areas to treat that may give away a woman's age no matter how young the rest of her face, neck or body may look.

Lots of things can be done with hands, but the most popular options are chemical peels, fillers and laser.

My customers will do a detox mask on their hands, add gentlewaves light therapy and then add a water and oil soluble vitamin C called Radical C by Liquid Gold.

Page 39 of Aesthetics Journal magazine is EXACTLY what the Queen of Pop allegedly has done with her hands. It's called Redermalization with a series of products called Xela Rederm. https://issuu.com/aestheticsjournal/docs/aesthetics_february_2016

I will elaborate on this post later, but since most of the treatments I know of are practiced in the UK the jury of this procedure is still out with me.

Check back to this post for updates!

ONE EASY WAY TO FIX OR PREVENT HAIR LOSS

2016-03-02T21:56:00.001-05:00

Once again we're back to circulation. When we stress out our bodies have an automatic shut off system giving minimal blood supply from the neck on up. The blood carries nutrients to our brains. This lack of blood supply from stress can cause memory issues and hair loss among many other problems.

Rubbing the nape of the neck and giving yourself a long scalp massage can help increase blood flow and circulation to the scalp allowing the nutrients to get to where they need to go. You don't need to be anywhere special to do your own neck massages. I find massages while sitting in front of the computer can be a very convenient time to remember to increase circulation to the brain.

Keep in mind not all hair loss is stress-related. It can be hormonal, thyroid, traction alopecia (from hair being pulled too tight) hereditary or also caused by hair products plugging up your scalp. There is also speculation that the same mites (demodex mites) that may cause rosacea could cause hair loss. You can find a formula for those mites on Amazon.

Back to circulation I like to add essential oil of peppermint to the nape of my neck and at my temples when I'm under a lot of stress. While I do well under stress, constant stress without sleep is a recipe for big health issues down the road!

HOW TO FIX OR PREVENT SAGGING SKIN

2016-02-23T23:50:00.003-05:00

PHOTO CREDIT: DEBBIE EGAN-CHIN/NY DAILY NEWS FEATURING MATT DIAZ

Gravity can be cruel... and my last 20 years have been about creating the illusion of defying gravity on models and celebs through makeup artistry or by actually reversing the appearance of years on customers with special treatments (despite what Sir Isaac Newton has to say about it).

People that age are not the only ones with the issue of sagging skin. Those who experience rapid and extreme weight loss can also deal with several pounds of sagging skin that never seems to bounce back.

In the image above a young, 22 year old Matt Diaz from Brooklyn had lost 270 lbs. Eventually he had such an excessive amount of skin as a result of his weight loss that he felt most comfortable having it surgically removed. You can read more about his journey in the Daily News HERE.

I had tried to reach out to Matthew last year when he bravely exposed himself while trying to crowd fund his surgery. I tried to explain to him that he's got so many factors in his favor that might help him prevent having to go through such an extreme surgery. His young age means there's a lot of elasticity still available to work with in his skin. There are devices out there now that deliver heat to the dermal layers that could have definitely tightened his skin in after a series of sessions or the cavitation machines that also bust fat and tighten skin (not the cheap Chinese ones you can find on ebay!!!) Simultaneously he would also have to work on the underlying muscles.

Don't get me wrong. I'm not against surgery. It's just surgery as dramatic as what this young man had to endure can be risky. I'm sure Matt is discovering that surgery that is this extensive is also very difficult to recover from. At least he has youth on his side and I wish him all of the happiness he thinks this will bring him.

The reason I bring up skin tightening is that whether you have loose skin from aging or weight loss there are several non-invasive remedies to try first before going under the knife. It all comes down to nutrients and circulation. I bring up this topic as I too personally have dropped two dress sizes since January. I'm not going to tell you how as I have ten more sizes to go and this is not what this entry is about. Trust me, there will be plenty of me left, but the side effect of the sagging skin that has already occurred is not cute.

Here are my top 5 remedies to help sagging skin from head to toe:

1. Eat foods with Vitamin C. C is essential in collagen building. Check out my past entry on C HERE. I also personally promote lyposheric C for maximum c absorption.

2. Get tons of body wraps or do your own at home. Seaweed body wraps, heck even wraps from the MLM "It Works" will help to tighten, soften and eliminate excess water, toxins and even inches from your body while promoting elasticity. Doing them on a bi-weekly basis can be the most effective, but make sure you drink TONS of fresh, clean water throughout the process. I have some clients that are also HUGE fans of the korean skincare product 23 yrs old Body Shaper. Can't manage doing your own wrap? Elizabeth Arden spas have an economic price going on body wraps or you could just search groupon until you find one. They're everywhere!

3. SCRUB! It's important to increase circulation on the surface of the skin whether it's through dry brushing, korean exfoliating mitt brushing or using any device to increase circulation. IT'S ALL ABOUT CIRCULATION! This should be a daily ritual. Can't do your own? Find a cheap Korean spa who will!

4. MOISTURIZE! Dry skin is a fast track to aging. When collagen loses moisture, especially as we age, it actually breaks. Forget the stretching of the rubber band. This collagen/ elastin is broken. The best moisturizer you can use is Shea butter. Oils don't moisturize, but if you use a combo scrub oil in the shower you will also see the benefits of more supple and elastic skin. I love the smell of the strawberry scrub from Simple Sugars or you can try this invigorating organic coffee scrub.

5. MICRONEEDLING- I have been practicing this method for MANY years now - long before it was ever sold on ebay via China. Microneedling also known by many other names such as dermarolling helps to stimulate collagen. There are tons of rollers out there. I recommend you leave your face to the pros. You can incur a lot of damage if you don't use the right roller. As for body, needling is AMAZING for stretch marks and sagging skin. There's a cheap needling set on Amazon, but PLEASE don't use it on your face! Most of the online sites do not carry the correct needles for the face. They cut and tear the skin vs stimulate the collagen. There are TONS of videos on youTube if you search dermarolling or microneedling and want to find out more.

Keep in mind shrinking and tightening your skin is HARD work, but persistence will help pay off. If you're in the process of losing weight or even if your skin has lost its bounce these remedies will be sure to help bring some spring back into that skin!

*Please note these are only recommendations. Speak to a doctor or professional before attempting or beginning any program.

THE REAL KOREAN BEAUTY SECRET ISN'T 12 STEPS

2015-10-26T23:56:00.001-04:00

KOREAN BEAUTY IN THE MEDIA
Have you felt a little bombarded by Korean beauty products in the media lately? Even Estee Lauder is inking a deal with Dr. Jart+ at this very moment to get in on the Korean action. I'm here to briefly debunk and demystify a little about Korea and extrapolate the stuff you really need to know!

KOREAN BEAUTY PRODUCTS
Most of the products that make it to the US from South Korea might come across as cute teenage toys or gimmicks. By now you might have seen the banana-shaped hand cream or the egg-shaped pore cleaners. What makes a few Korean products really so wonderful is their skincare is functional and clinically tested more than Indie Brands in the US. Korean skincare generally solves a problem and get you a LOT of bang for your buck. What might cost $200 in the United States or Europe is $40 (or less) in Korea and now in the states. There are some smaller brands in Korea that have a handful of innovative products, but then again I could say the same about Israel, Sweden, Canada, Brazil and others that have yet to trend in the media. While cushion compacts are a Korean innovation that exploded across the globe, Korean color cosmetics definitely don't outperform MAC, Make Up Forever or Nars- they're just fun. The Japanese still rule liners and even Korean Cult brand Clio licenses their Kill Black Liner Formula from Japan. Smart move Korea.

South Korean skincare came into my bubble over 20 years ago while working as a top fashion and SFX campaign makeup artist before most Korean brands had any online or physical presence in the states mostly through professional tradeshows. Later as a licensed esthetician and cosmetic formulator I already knew every buyer, manufacturer and many of the chemists and innovators Korea had to offer because the Korean government was spending a lot of money to place these brands in the US. The Beauty world is intimate and once news travels that you understand chemistry and that you know how to talk about a product then they all somehow find you. In fact, I have a little game with one of my Korean associates I call "Do you know this company?". He keeps trying to introduce me to someone I don't know. You can read more about S. Korea on my LINKED IN.

This past fall I was finally graciously invited to South Korea for a second time by the government to meet with their manufacturers at their cost. Life's too short so I decided it was time to brave the 14+ hour flight thinking once I arrived they were just going plug me into a magic chair and I would walk away a slimmer, younger version of myself. Um, not without a LOT of surgery. South Korea is the plastic surgery capital of the world.

VISIT K- TOWN IN LA
You don't have to imagine or travel thousands of miles to get a feel for what Korea is like if you live in Los Angeles. K-towns in the US have MANY of the same brands that you find in South Korea- just more of them per square capita. TONS of coffee and dessert places too. Korean women LOVE their desserts!

THE 12 STEP BEAUTY RITUAL IS MOSTLY MARKETING AND HYPE

I could understand why some Korean women partake in the twelve step system. It takes A LOT to get all of that BB cream out of the pores! Not judging. Our Insta beauties here are not too far behind these South Korean women.

Let me save you some time, reading and money: Most of the South Korean women both in the US and abroad don't practice a twelve step skincare regimen. This is marketing by a US company spun to sell more skincare. Don't get me wrong. Koreans certainly spend more time and money on their skin than many other women across the globe do, but then again that might have to do something with the photos they are required to attach to their resumes in order to compete for a job in a very competitive job market. If there are two similar candidates going for a job, the prettier one is more likely to get it!

Here in the US women still go to sleep in their makeup and still wonder why they don't wake up to fabulous, glowing skin.

#1 REASON KOREANS GENERALLY HAVE BETTER SKIN
The number one reason Koreans generally have better skin is because of a famous fermented food called Kimchi. Kimchi found in various forms is part of EVERY meal! I had it for breakfast, lunch and dinner while I was in South Korea. Kimchi keeps the colon healthy. The gut is the immune system of the human body. Breakouts, oily and/or dry skin increase when the immune system is out of whack. You can check out my blog entry on KIMCHI HERE.

I will say while the South Koreans do eat a lot of sugar, they don't really get too much into dairy- a food category notoriously known to to cause acne among my customers. Within a week of clearing dairy out of their diets they see huge changes in their skin- if not a complete elimination of their skin troubles.

MAYBE TRY THE MASKS
Another thing Koreans do as much as brushing their teeth is wear masks. Men, women AND children do it. Ten minutes is all it takes to turn dull, drab skin around. You can find some excellent ones at www.msapothecary.com Don't bother with the animal masks. They're some of the "toys" I mentioned earlier.

The moral of the story here is don't fall for the Korean skincare hype running rampant in the media. China is now disrupting their market and innovation is beginning to slow. You can also check out that article on LINKEDIN.

In the meantime do yourself a major favor and start eating fermented foods on a regular basis! There's nothing like eating your way to better skin and health!

xo

LUNCHTIME FACELIFT- LONGTIME PROBLEMS?

2015-10-06T23:15:00.001-04:00

(Photo courtesy Gawker.com)

The other day a stunning woman in her 60's dropped in for a consult. She was a client I had seen years ago before she left the Big Apple. She knew her skin had taken a turn for the worst when she came to see me, but I had waited for her to say it first.

It's hard to imagine this woman being anything other than beautiful, but the skin on her neck was the hard to look at as a professional because it was just hanging (eluding to her being older than she really is). Nothing that a turtleneck or scarf won't cover, but she normally lives in a climate filled with bathing suits and works in an industry where appearances matter.

Her skin had certainly never looked this thin or fragile before. She had finally admitted to getting Ultherapy, a very hot, non-ablative (non-surgical) device that uses heat to tighten in the collagen. As I've mentioned before most of the time customers don't realize that many of these hot devices are also excellent for melting the fat below the skin. That's why some doctors are using similar devices to help eliminate fat on the body. You can read more about these devices HERE.

The problem for this particular client was her skin was already too thin even prior to the ultherapy treatment ( I would have said the same about thermage). After observing hundreds of ultherapy customers I find it is a tool best used for bulky jowls or a double chin (IF someone is a good candidate). Personally the double chin area makes me a bit nervous because I've seen a lot of stringy necks after this treatment (especially after age 45). The rest of the face should be off limits because a year or two down the road the collagen breaks and loosens especially around the edges of the mouth making your laugh lines appear to have commas or parentheses around them.

The hot 60+ year old claimed that the treatment was VERY painful (probably because she had no fat to begin with) and the results, if any, were short-lived (especially when these treatments run $4-6,000.00). P.S. You could practically get a whole new face in South Korea for what one pays for a series of laser treatments here in the US.

My greater concern is when she does eventually go for any kind of face lift her skin will be too thin to lift. Her skin is not quite that bad yet, but it could be as time goes on and the collagen begins to get more fragile.

My client turned to me to see what I could do in the interim for her. I told her I could try to do some collagen therapy, which will help to thicken her skin. The problem is that procedure (which I will discuss in the future) generally works on collagen that hasn't turned into scar tissue. I also advised her to make sure she keeps her skin well hydrated. Collagen that is brittle or dry can break and age even faster as I've mentioned before in this entry.

It will be very interesting to see what the world of skin will be like over the next five years. I recently spent time in South Korea working and interviewing dozens of Korean women. I discovered that they find our celebrities very harsh looking. They think our women's faces are too gaunt (not from contouring either). We might turn around and say that all Korean women look alike after their surgical procedures. Check out this article on South Korean surgery and beauty pageants.

In closing my biggest concern is that even the Kardashians are promoting Ultherapy at far too young of an age. They don't realize this could age and distort their skin faster because the collagen these machines create is inferior collagen that is like scar tissue (think of stretch marks).

In the end it's really up to the consumer to do the research. I need to go down some vitamin C!

HOW TO USE SILKWORM COCOONS

2015-08-25T10:39:00.000-04:00

COLLAGEN MYTHS PART 1- WHAT IS COLLAGEN?

2015-07-22T13:07:00.003-04:00

PHOTO COURTESY http://www.thefitindian.com

Even as a young child I was exposed to collagen. It all began when my mother made me consume countless packets of gelatin or jell-o to try to strengthen my nails. Sadly despite her efforts my nails continued to split until I reached college and discovered Biotin. I’m happy to report that after taking Biotin I found myself trading in sad, splitting nails for diamond-hard gems.

One of the reasons the collagen failed is because the particles were too large. The body can’t absorb something if the molecule is too big. It just ends up traveling through the body and right into the toilet making most of what we may put on our skin or drink in a beverage useless.

WHAT IS COLLAGEN?

In order for you to figure out how to build collagen you first need to understand what collagen is. Collagen is the scaffolding that makes up 80 percent of our skin. As we age it begins to degrade and disappear. Our skin in turn loses its structure and begins to drop or sag and cause wrinkles. Sun, stress, and especially sugar are ways to make sure collagen is on a fast track to degrading called collagenase or glycation.

This fibrous protein comes in many types, but here are the main five:

* Collagen I: skin, tendon, vascular, ligature, organs, bone (main component of bone and the most abundant collagen in the body. Most importantly it is present in scar tissue: the end product of when tissue heals by repair.

* Collagen II: cartilage (main component of cartilage)

* Collagen III: reticulate (main component of reticular fibers), commonly found alongside type I.

* Collagen IV: forms bases of cell basement membrane

* Collagen V: cells surfaces, hair and placenta

In future entries I will cover how to stimulate collagen the correct way. In the meantime check out why I find lasers and other tools a fast track to long-term collagen damage in a Tuesday Tip HERE.

ANTIOXIDANT SUPERPOWER

2015-06-24T10:22:00.001-04:00

Photo courtesy of imgarcade.com

This past weekend I was in Las Vegas for a beauty convention. I always find at least one breakthrough product at these shows. At this particular show collagen beverages were on the rise, but what I was happy to see is liposomal technology returning in supplements.

One of the labs was selling a liposomal Glutathione. Without getting into too much tech, Glutathione is like Vitamin C on steroids and it is coined the "Mother of all antioxidants". Antioxidants help to prevent cancer because they donate electrons. Cancer cells are cells that are missing electrons throwing the cell off balance.

Glutathione is excellent for energy and tissue building. It is HUGE in anti-aging and MANY anti-aging doctors give it intravenously because it's very difficult for the body to absorb orally.

Talk to your healthcare specialist about incorporating Glutathione and check out this video in the meantime:

DIY FIRMING EGG MASK

2015-06-09T22:37:00.000-04:00

Once upon a time, one of the major fashion designers booked me to apply makeup on one of the fashion industry's top supermodels for the Met Gala. Upon prepping my makeup table for my subject, I gazed up just as she floats across the floor and noticed her legs and arms peeling like a snake. She wasn't shy about it. She announced that she had coated her entire body with egg whites and went shopping all day with the egg whites applied all over her body. This explains how she kept her skin tight both during and after having four children! She used egg whites on her body and face to keep the elasticity in her skin thanks to the amino acids egg whites provide. Mind you, she still looks like a baby even to this day!

I found a segment on the Doctors that shows how you take the egg whites, whip them until frothy, coat the entire face (and neck) with a makeup brush, and leave on 15 minutes to an hour. After your egg session, it's probably best to hop into the shower. Eggs can be a bit of a mess.

While this treatment works on any skin type, it is especially useful on oily skin because egg whites have an astringent effect. It's also helpful in keeping bacteria at bay.

Don't be afraid also to coat your body as the supermodel did. Just do us all a favor and don't go trying any clothes on while you're doing that. Thank you!

ANOTHER REASON FOR ADULT BREAKOUTS!!

2015-06-02T08:59:00.000-04:00

Once again emails are flooding in about people experiencing breakouts......from adults. Many of these emails are from people I don't know. One minute they are fine. The next minute they're filled with little dots and even hives. From my past entries I have explained this is inflammation. They body is trying to tell you something. It generally happens around the chin and lower half of the face. In Chinese medicine this is stomach, intestines and hormones. I feel like I sound like a broken record, but I personally can drink two different sources of coffee/caffeine and guarantee a breakout within 24 hours of consuming them, which is great for testing out new acne products.

Even though I am not a doctor I find that more adult women are experiencing breakouts around their periods or during ovulation. It becomes exacerbated when they drink caffeine or eat sugar and bread.

Just moments ago I got an email from a group in South Korea that is reporting the following:

"According to the economic growth and the improvement in national income, the eating habits of people have changed, as can be seen in the consumption of Western food such as coffee, instant food, chemical seasonings, etc. This in turn caused change in the physical constitution, leading to vascular diseases, and there are also diseases called metabolic syndrome, atopic dermatitis, also known as sensitive skin diseases that are caused by endocrine disrupting chemicals from new buildings that accumulate in the human body."

The moral of the story here is we have to really become conscious of what we put in, around and on our bodies. Forget breakouts. Cancer is getting out of control and it is up to us as individual consumers to vote with our pockets as best we can. Look at the major decline at McDonald's. Consumers are demanding better for themselves leaving McDonald's no choice, but to take action.

In the meantime stay away from products that have added fragrance. Eat clean, not processed. GET SLEEP! Drink lots of clean water (if it exists). Listen to your body and takes notes as to when your skin has problems. Note what you are eating, drinking and doing and it's likely you'll easily find the breakout culprit........and then stop it!

PERIORAL DERMATITIS

2015-05-20T00:27:00.002-04:00

Photo Courtesy http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perioral_dermatitis#/media/File:Perioral_dermatitis.JPG

This blog comes late because I was just with ANOTHER new customer that has lovely skin, but little bumps around her mouth. I get similar bumps when I drink certain coffees especially around my period.

When I first started my skincare career I was seeing hundreds of customers come through my spa a week. We NEVER saw the amounts of Rosacea and other skincare issues that my business has currently been seeing in the last two years. Again if I drink coffee, eat gluten or swig a sugar-free red bull (yes, it happens) the bumps might appear and it will take a good week to month for those bumps to calm down. It takes a lot of self control not to want to pick or scratch at them too because sometimes they can itch.

According to Wikipedia, Perioral Dermatitis mostly affects women 20-45 years of age. PD is a sign of inflammation in the body. Stress can bring it on. Drinking and eating too many acidic foods can trigger it. I know that I've seen toothpaste trigger it in younger children and the elderly. In Chinese medicine this area can signify the stomach as well so it makes sense that foods can be a trigger for Perioral Dermatitis.

I find that oatmeal is good at calming the skin in these cases. Just whip up a batch of steel cut oatmeal and allow it to set on the face for about twenty minutes. Be careful with this area when using products that are too active. The area is dry and sensitive and something active can cause to worsen. Plain yogurt can also be nice. The lactic acid helps to naturally exfoliate the skin while the probiotics help to support the skin's barrier where the bacteria is getting in. I've had several customers put coconut oil on the affected area. Some say it clears up when they get more sleep and stay away from processed foods.

I always say food is at the root of either good or bad skin. Watch what you eat and pay attention to how it effects you!

By the way you can't kiss anyone and spread dermatitis, but aggressive cases can keep people from wanting to kiss you in return so keep an alkaline diet, watch the simple sugars and get plenty of rest!

FOR THE PROS

2015-05-13T00:52:00.000-04:00

It has come to my attention that SEVERAL professionals in the spa and medical industry have been using Tuesday's Ultra Beauty Tips as a resource. It pleases me to know that I've not only helped customers, but pros in all facets of the beauty and wellness industry. Everything that I publish on this site is sound, time-tested information.

About a month ago I recorded a Podcast with a fellow colleague and licensed Esthetician Lori Crete. She has really done a fantastic job of pulling out some business secrets in order to help you pros out there.

I encourage you to check out the podcast as we discuss:

The importance of products in expanding your business
Why you should always be prepared for an emergency
The importance of confidence and standing your ground
How to transition from fashion to esthetics
How fixing people on the outside can fix them on the inside
The danger of discounts
Why you should diversify your services
How to find the right sale system
When to fire your clients
The importance of nurturing relationships

It takes a LOT of work to put something like this together and I applaud Lori and encourage her to continue this journey as the esthetician mentor.

Her site is at http://www.theestheticianmentor.com

SUPERMODEL SECRETS ON STYLE.COM

2015-05-05T22:58:00.000-04:00

On a daily basis people are asking me about celebrity beauty secrets. I NEVER divulge who my clients are, but I try to explain to them it's a full time job that takes a great amount of investment in both time and money. There are no shortcuts!

Finally Supermodel, Supermom, Superwife and Superbusinesswoman Karolina Kurkova reveals to the media some of her personal beauty secrets leading up to the most important red carpet on Style.com.

Karolina is a young lady I have had the pleasure to watch grow for almost two decades in the fashion industry. She can't seem to stay in one time zone for more than two days because she is the hardest working model in the fashion and entertainment industry (which can wreak havoc on the body and skin).

Thank you for being so generous Karolina by sharing your story!

Oh, and not to be a tease, but unfortunately this hi-tech mask is not on the market YET......but soon. That's the perk of being a client ;)

BEWARE OF HEAVY METAL!

2015-04-29T23:03:00.000-04:00

Last year I had attended a fascinating symposium on antioxidants at the World Trade Center. The room was filled with doctors and scientists whom all agreed that our skin is in BIG trouble thanks to increased pollutants in the environment.

What the scientists went on to reveal is that skin cancer rates for city dwellers is higher than those that live in rural areas. The reason there is such a high risk of skin cancer is because we are completely bombarded with the heavy metals in the air, water, costume jewelry, televisions and more on a daily basis. There's no escaping it.

When heavy metal and sun combine it disrupts the function of the cell, which leads to skin cancer, acne, dry skin, rosacea, and all kinds of other health issues.

If you have acne, rosacea or other skin problems I first recommend a good shower head filter to help filter out heavy metals coming from out of your pipes. It's a simple, effortless way of eliminating excess metal exposure. In addition to purchasing a shower head filter I suggest picking up a gallon jug of distilled water and washing and rinsing the skin with the distilled water instead of tap water. Not only are you preventing extra metals from touching your skin, but distilled water is great for pulling out excess metals on the skin.

Distilled water also usually has a lower pH than tap water, which can help fight against bacteria living on your skin. No bacteria = Clear Skin!

Check out my post on water and acne for more details and videos HERE.

THE CULT KOREAN BEAUTY SECRET 10X's BETTER THAN HYALURONIC ACID

2015-04-22T00:00:00.000-04:00

SHOP KOREA

Korean beauty is popping up in the press these days- A LOT. There's are lot of money being pumped into brands going into Sephora, Target, Urban Outfitters and The Face Shop.

Sadly Americans still don't have any idea that the best stuff still hasn't even hit our shores yet, but that's all soon about to change.

ENTER the silkworm cocoon. South Korea has a booming silk trade business. The silkworm cocoon is the home to a little silkworm that feasts on mulberry leaves rich in amino acids. After the little guys have gorged themselves on mulberry leaves they spin a cocoon and go to sleep. After their metamorphosis they exit the cocoon leaving us behind a little present (after the silk has been removed).

The area where the moth exits the cocoon is the part that is cut off by manufacturers leaving an opening big enough to put on our fingers. I can assure you no moth is harmed.

The Koreans first introduced it to me as a blackhead exfoliator, but by accident I decided to start rubbing it all over my clients' skin and started noticing the wrinkles erasing. I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me.

I wasn't the only crazy one to notice. A writer Frances Childs from the Daily Mail also reported about her fine lines and age spots miraculously disappearing after daily use for 30 days. In clinical tests her lines and age spots had reduced by 20% in those thirty days. Experts say it's thanks to the proteins found in the silk called Sericin (18 amino acids).

I knew there had to be more to the story. After much investigation I discovered silk aminos attract 10,000 times their weight in moisture. That's TEN TIMES more than any hyaluronic acid on the market!

What I didn't realize is that the beauty industry has known about this forever. We've been putting silk proteins in our haircare products for decades to add moisture to our manes. I just haven't been paying attention because that was such old marketing decades ago.

Thanks to South Korean trade agreements with the US and an awareness of Korean products thanks to an article in Marie Claire Magazine, cheap and effective beauty can now be shipped directly to your home by shopping at M.S. Apothecary . All of the cocoon directions are there on the site.

So exfoliate your way to AMAZING new skin NOW and make sure to catch the May issue of Marie Claire Magazine where Courtney Dunlop talks about all kinds of cool Korean beauty!

p.s. I just want to know what silk worker was sitting there rubbing a cocoon on their face only to discover it's one of anti-aging's most effective tools!

BEAUTY SPRAYS CAN AGE YOU!

2015-04-15T00:40:00.000-04:00

Who doesn't have an Evian spray in their beauty arsenal, but did you know you could be doing more harm to your skin than good if you misuse your beauty spray??? It's not your fault. We've been trained to whip out that spray to luxuriously "hydrate" our skin especially during long flights or in dry climates.

NO!

Have you ever noticed that the more you lick your lips (especially in winter) the faster they dry out? Guess what? The same thing happens when you spray a water mist directly on to bare skin!

Beauty sprays are to:
1. Set Makeup
2. Assist in helping serums and moisturizers absorb.

Do NOT look to sprays (even hydrosols) to hydrate your skin unless you are using a spray that contains beauty oils in them, BUT be careful as some sprays can throw off the skin's pH (protective barrier) making you more prone to acne and advanced aging.

Using a beauty spray can even make you more prone to skin cancer. If your skin is dry it can't protect itself. If the spray is still wet on the skin it can magnify the sun's ray's and increase your chances of skin cancer.

So RULE #1: Only use a water spray if there there is already a serum and/or cream on your skin.
Rule #2: Go ahead and use a beauty spray to set your makeup and increase that dewiness factor!

.....and now you know!

20 NATURAL CHAPPED LIP REMEDIES by Monterey Bay Holistic

2015-04-08T00:38:00.002-04:00

This list isn't just a great chapped lip list, but also for general dry skin. Dry skin leaves us susceptible to skin cancer especially as the days get longer so follow this list!

IS SUNSCREEN ENOUGH?

2015-04-02T10:25:00.000-04:00

www.msapothecary.com

AGING AND SKIN CANCER RATES
Skin cancer rates continue to climb despite reports in the overall decrease of sun exposure during peak sun hours and record rates of sunscreen usage. While sunscreen is promoted as the number one protection of choice, the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) has stated that sunscreen is not enough: "....by themselves, sunscreen might not be effective in protecting you from the most dangerous forms of skin cancer.....sunscreen only protects from SOME of the sun's UV radiation".1

WHAT CAUSES AGING AND SKIN CANCER?
UV radiation as well as oxidative damage are the key contributors to skin cancer and aging. Oxidative damage a.k.a. free radical damage is a way of basically saying sun, smoking, overeating, stress, fast food, lack of sleep, pollution and bad lifestyle choices can cause us to rust like a car sitting out in the elements too long.

BUT WHAT ELSE CAN WE DO?
The NIH (National Institute of Health) has reported that reducing oxidative damage (free radical damage) could be the key to anti-aging. 2 What does this statement mean? It means that scientists believe and have confirmed that eating foods high in antioxidants (and adding antioxidants topically) make cells stronger against factors that cause skin cancer and aging.

MARKETING CONFUSION
MANY cosmetic companies advertise they have "antioxidants" or even "powerful antioxidants" in their formulas. This marketing can be confusing and even misleading for the consumer since presently any company can advertise these claims. Most of these "antioxidant" claims are unsubstantiated. The FDA does not verify claims before a cosmetic product or supplement goes to market. The Natural Skincare market has struggled for many years with the same confusing marketing issues when it comes to "natural and organic" beauty products.

TESTING FOR ANTIOXIDANTS
One group decided to come up with term EPF (Environmental Protection Factor), similar to SPF, but the problem with EPF is the actual formulas are not being tested. Only the specific raw materials being added to the formulas in very small amounts are being tested for antioxidants. Consumers might actually be confused as to how much of that material is really being added to the formula. EPF is a nice concept, but there is no scientific community acceptance of EPF and at this time EPF only appears to be used to promote an ingredient in cosmetic products.

ORAC 5.0
Since consumer education and transparency have been a cornerstone values to Liquid Gold's creator Mary Schook, she decided to enlist Brunswick Labs, the leading research, analysis, and technology laboratory involved in the science of antioxidants to test the actual Liquid Gold Cell Quench formula (not the raw materials that goes into it) to find out the true antioxidant measurements in Cell Quench's serum (ORAC score). The ORAC 5.0 is the most comprehensive antioxidant test in existence based on the most widely accepted testing methodology. Cell Quench scored 66.85 on the ORAC 5.0.

COSMETIC HISTORY IS MADE
What does this score mean? ORAC 5.0 testing is the most widely accepted testing for antioxidants used in the scientific community. ORAC 5.0 testing may be in its inception for cosmetic formulas, but ORAC 5.0 testing is a way for cosmetic companies to actually quantify the antioxidants in their formulas (not just a raw material) using sound science. ORAC 5.0 is also a way for the consumer to compare the antioxidant properties between formulas that claim to have powerful antioxidants (just as a consumer may compare SPF numbers on a sunscreen*). Leave it to Liquid Gold chemist and creator Mary Schook to pioneer another innovation that helps consumers enhance their lives through health and beauty.

WHAT NOW?
Liquid Gold is campaigning to educate consumers to become more aware that sunscreen just isn't enough. Eating a diet rich in antioxidants and applying products with antioxidants in the end might just help slow the appearance of aging.*

IMPORTANT LINKS
1. http://www.epa.gov/sunwise/doc/sunscreen.pdf
2. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2684512/
3. http://institutefornaturalhealing.com/2012/05/how-to-stave-off-skin-cancer-with-two-dietary-changes/
4. http://www.worldlifeexpectancy.com/cause-of-death/skin-cancers/by-country/

*The FDA has not evaluated this statement. Liquid Gold is a cosmetic application and does not claim or intend to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.

23 WAYS TO LOOK AND FEEL YOUNGER IN UNDER A MINUTE

2015-03-24T21:18:00.000-04:00

This week's Tuesday tips are brought to you from an interview I did with Cosmopolitan's Beauty Editor, Carly Cardellino ( a beauty all to herself) about 23 ways to look better in a minute or less. Enjoy! You can find the original article HERE.

1. Melt an ice cube over your face. After cleansing, run an ice cube over your face to close and tighten your pores. (You can start the melting process by running the ice cube along your hands). The cooling sensation will also help reduce any inflammation you might have, says aesthetician and cosmetic chemist Mary Schook, who also provides the tips below.

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2. Eat a ripe banana, then rub the inside of the peel on any fine lines you might have. Bananas keep you satiated between meals and help maintain your blood levels. Bonus: the inside of the peel contains enzymes that exfoliate, hydrate, and plump the skin. Rub the peel on your fine lines until it oxidizes and turns brown, which takes about a minute, then rinse your face.

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3. Use a sheet mask to immediately boost moisture and give your skin a dose of vitamins. Even if you wear your favorite Jason-like beauty mask for just one minute, it will help your skin look dewier. Try The Face Shop Hydro Vita Gel Mask, $4 each, or SK-II Treatment Mask, $17 each. And since you only have 60 seconds to wear it this time around, rehydrate the sheet mask with an Evian water spray and put it in a plastic resealable bag to get a second use out of it — just be sure to use the other side of the mask next time.

4. Carry rosewater spray in your purse and spritz it throughout the day. Collagen breaks down when the moisture in your skin is depleted. When you feel your skin getting tight and dry, lightly spritz your face with rosewater (an anti-inflammatory ingredient that boosts cellular function and reduces inflammation). Let it soak in (Don't touch your face or you could transfer bacteria from your hands onto it!). Now you've got hydrated and youthful-looking skin. Try Glossier Soothing Face Mist, $18.

5. Massage the nape of your neck. Blood flow gets blocked with tightened neck muscles, which tense up from stress and put pressure on your blood vessels. By massaging the nape of your neck for a minute, you loosen the muscles. Proper blood flow helps you think better and instantly de-stresses you, preventing the release of the hormone cortisol that can inhibit collagen production. This, in turn, leaves you looking fresh-faced and fineline-free.

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6. Take a probiotic. Popping a probiotic pill builds your immune system and keeps the good and bad bacteria in your gut balanced, which keeps your skin clear and your energy up. Just remember to discuss the use of probiotics with your personal care physician before implementing them into your routine.

7. Use dry shampoo at night to make your morning routine smoother. By now you know that spraying your favorite dry shampoo through your hair will make it look like you got a bombshell blowout in seconds. But, if you don't have an invisible formula nearby, like Aussie Total Miracle 7-in-1 Dry Shampoo, $6, you might have to resort to using good old baby powder that tends to leave white residue behind. If that's the case, dust it on before you got to bed at night, so you have eight hours for it to absorb. You will feel so amazing when you wake up with amazing hair the next day.

Kathleen Kamphausen

8. Run in place or do as many jumping jacks as 60 seconds will allow.

This gets your circulation going and boosts your oxygen levels to speed up your metabolism — it even gives your face a gorgeous flush.

9. Apply mousse to hair from roots to ends, put your hair into a high bun in the a.m., and then before going out after work, take it down for gorgeous, going-out loose waves. It's the perfect day-to-night look and it only takes a minute to pull off. Build volume by gently pulling the hair at the top of your head forward, tugging it out of the bun (but not all the way) so the hair stays lifted as it sets.

10. Use lipstick to add color to your eyes, cheeks, and lips. If you don't have time to put on a full face of makeup, swipe your favorite shade of lipstick over your eyelids, cheekbones, and lips to look instantly polished in a flash. For a full-on how-to, click here.

11. Dry-brush your body. Use a body brush (a long-handled or short hand-held brush with stiffer bristles), like Aromatherapy Associates Polishing Body Brush $23, to quickly and lightly exfoliate your skin. Not only does it increase circulation, it encourages lymphatic drainage. Whaaaat is that? Your lymph system is basically a garbage disposal for your cells, and lymphatic drainage gives you clearer skin and a healthier system overall. Use upward motions toward your heart so the waste exits your system properly. Remember to wash your brush when you shower to get rid of dead skin cells!

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12. Use leftover coffee grounds mixed with olive oil as a quick cellulite scrub in the tub. After you've brewed your cup of Joe in the morning, remove the liner from your coffee machine, mix in a few drops of olive oil, and apply the blend in the shower before turning on the water. Applying this combo in circular motions increases circulation and promotes lymphatic drainage. The caffeine in the coffee helps tighten skin.

13. Use a rollerball to decrease puffiness. Liquid can also pool in the areas around your eye and eyelid, and make you look like you pulled an all-nighter. To get that liquid moving, use an eye serum with a rollerball stainless steel tip and go through these four motions:

Starting at the inner corner of your eye, roll the serum under your brow, ending at the outer corner on your brow bone. Repeat this motion four times.
Next, from outer corner of your eye, gently run the rollerball under your eye to the inner corner of your eye four times.
Then, from the outer corner of your eye over the crease to the inner corner. Repeat four times.
Finally, go all the way around the eye with the rollerball and you're done. You should see your brow slightly lifted and the puffiness subside.

Try Clinique All About Eyes Serum De-Puffing Eye Massage.

14. Use a luminizer on the inner corner of your eyes. Simply run your clean fingertip over a luminizer that isn't too sparkly and pat it over the inner corner of your eye. The warmth from your finger will meld the product into your skin seamlessly and make you look instantly awake. Try RMS Living Luminzer.

15. Sniff a peppermint or eucalyptus essential oil midday to de-stress you. These scents clear your nasal passages, bring more oxygen to your skin, and allow you to calm down.

16. Make yourself some tea. Opt for a caffeine-free version of your favorite flavor so it doesn't dehydrate your skin. Want skin-clearing benefits? Go for one with hibiscus, which promotes clearer skin and detoxifies your cells. Try Yogi Skin Detox.

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17. Skip the cupcake break. Too much sugar breaks down collagen and elastin, which leads to fine lines and wrinkles. Instead of a sugary treat that you think is going to keep you going, eat something healthier and more filling, like a chia drink or chia-filled snack. Chia seeds absorb water and expand, which makes you feel fuller, and add a ton of fiber to your diet.

18. Wash your hair with warm water, followed with a cool burst to close the cuticle and add shine. Hi, Blake Lively hair!

19. Burn a soy candle (or anything that is paraffin-free) over a synthetic formula. Soy versions have essentials oils in them that can boost your energy levels, whereas paraffin-based candles contain gasoline that can actually make you sleepy and even flare up skin issues, like eczema. Try Archipelago Black Forest Soy Candle, $32.

20. Buff your nails. If you don't have time to get a manicure, use a buffing block to polish your nails to perfection. It only takes a second but it will look like you got a salon-worthy mani!

21. Line the inner rim of your upper lid with dark brown liner to make you look awake. Black liner can sometimes be too harsh for daytime, but the contrast between the dark brown liner and the whites of your eyes will be enough to make you look like you got a full eight hours of sleep even when you didn't.

22. Use a brow razor to eliminate stray hairs. If you keep plucking your brows as you age, the hair may not grow back over time, which means you might be SOL if you want to ever create a different brow shape or leave your brows more full. Using a brow razor (like Sally Hansen Get in Shape Brow Shapers) not only keeps the hair growing back, but it helps you better control the shape you want your brows to be.

23. Rinse your hair with apple cider vinegar after you shampoo it. Douse your mane with a cup of apple cider vinegar to instantly increase shine.

HOW TO USE CLOTH MASKS 101

2015-03-18T09:37:00.003-04:00

Demi Moore with a cloth mask

The Koreans are hitting hard with their masks here in the USA. Koreans use cloth masks probably as much as they brush their teeth. In Korea the drugstores and stores are filled with aisles of masks! You've also probably seen them on twitter and instagram worn by celebs such as Demi Moore and Jessica Simpson (or me lol).

Cloth masks are the most popular kind of mask because they are so cheap to produce. They come in all kinds of shapes, sizes and formulas. There is a mask for virtually EVERY type of skin problem made with any type of fruit, vegetable or ingredient. They're perfect to prevent dehydrated skin caused by traveling, before applying makeup for big events or virtually any other reason.

www.msapothecary.com

The problem is most people do not know how to use a cloth mask. Most people think you apply the mask until it dries and then remove it. Yes, you want to soak up as much "juice" as possible, but you don't want to rob your own skin of moisture!

What happens when you use a cloth mask and it begins to dry on the face is it begins to suck the moisture out of your own skin. This is so counter productive!

Generally you want to leave the mask on (10 minutes even if it says 15-20 minutes) until it begins to dry. Once you remove the mask you massage the rest of the serum in. If there is any serum left in the packet the mask came in you want to take that and massage it into the neck and chest because I guarantee you didn't apply any on your neck to begin with.

Masks should become a regular part of your beauty routine after cleansing. They can run about $2 a mask and you can really prevent and reverse aging and skin issues!

BEWARE OF "VOLUME" LASH EXTENSIONS

2015-03-10T13:00:00.000-04:00

Since the dawn of lash extensions in the US I have had to grapple with the fact that there are a few bad eggs that give "lash extensions" a bad rep. First there were the salons who were using super glue or industrial tire glue!!! Then there were the salons using .25 x 16mm lashes (enormous). Now there's a new trend taking over called "volume lashing" otherwise known as 2D, 3D, 4D, 5D, 6D, 9D, "Russian" or "Hollywood" lashing. The lash technician will permanently glue multiple lash strands on to an existing natural lash on the customer. I usually joke that this technique was probably developed to mask the amount of natural lashes customers were losing with bad lash extensions over the years!

I'm going to break to you folks- if nature did not bless you with long, thick lashes then it's likely you won't be able to handle more than 20% more thickness or weight than your own lash without enduring damage. It's fine for an event, but not for long-term wear.

To me (and my customers) lash extensions are meant to replace the use of mascara, not give you the look of a false lash.

It generally takes about a year to see the alopecia (hair loss) in customers who get this service, but eventually it comes (especially if you're over 35 or have constant stress).

LASH EXTENSIONS DO NOT DAMAGE THE LASHES!

That's right. When lash extensions are correctly applied they are less damaging that any mascara because mascara can break the lashes, build up bacteria and even age the eye faster in the removal process.

With proper care and the correct weight (size/width) of lash you can avoid lash damage and continue lashing for years without taking a break. My customers will double their own natural lash because they don't need to touch their lashes.

If you are seeking a bolder look like JLo or Kim Kardashian without the damage I suggest investing in false lashes. You can get so many cool styles and colors with false lashes. Even better, I'm totally into a new fiber mascara called Cherry Blooms! "False Lashes in 60 Seconds!"

If you'd like to know more about temporary lashes visit www.lashcult.com.

Good luck with the Latisse for you Volume lashers!

PRODUCT ALLERGIES ON THE RISE

2015-03-07T14:10:00.001-05:00

As of late I have been getting LOTS of S.O.S. emails about people having strange skin conditions and reactions. When I go through the list of products the customers are using, the same products keep coming up with the same reactions. For instance there is a popular CE serum, (which I will not disclose the name of ) that seems to cause hives and ruddy skin on a lot of people. The Tocopheral acetate is likely the culprit. Tocopherol Acetate on the skin can be considered toxic and in this formula consistently keeps causing the skin problems on people. This company is not a homemade kitchen company, but a well-respected company in the skincare industry. I just personally never thought the formula was that stable despite the use of E.

What most customers don't understand is that aside from properly labeling your skincare product and making sure your product is not using restricted or prohibited ingredients, the FDA is not looking at each and every product on the market. Here is a link to what the FDA requires http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ResourcesForYou/Industry/ucm388736.htm#1

In some ways the lack of restrictions are great because a lot of cool new brands end up on the market. In other ways this can be a nightmare for customers and their skin because sadly most companies big or small are throwing a bunch of ingredients into creams and serums and putting them on the market without doing the proper vetting and testing. I'm even getting reports of mold and products quickly turning as of late especially from the natural skincare categories.

If you're currently having skincare issues that involve bumps, scaliness or itching I suggest you stop all products and apply benadryl to the skin to calm it down. Stick to major brands like Olay or Neutrogena. They spend millions to test and make sure customers do not react to their products.

If you buy Korean skincare products you don't have to worry about this issue. The KFDA has tight restrictions and if a product makes a claim they have the certification and research to back it up.You can purchase the best Korean products at M.S. Apothecary.

BEWARE OF CUSHION COMPACTS AND COMODOGENIC TOOLS

2015-02-24T10:26:00.000-05:00

There is a global trend spreading like wildfire and just so very conveniently so is adult acne. It involves a trend called the cushion compact that originated in Korea. A cushion compact looks like a regular powder compact only there's liquid inside covered by a urethane foam cushion that looks similar to a ink stamp pad cushion. The advantage of the cushion is it's supposed to help disperse the liquid so that it's not applied as thick as BB cream might straight out of the tube.

I first saw the cushions at the packaging trade shows years ago, but I officially began to see them on the market in some local Korean stores here in NYC a while back. I never thought they would become as big as they have just because the compacts can be bulky (then again so have our cell phones). Even though forecasting is one of my specialties I also never thought BB cream would take off the way they did either. According to my Korean contacts when a trend takes off it becomes viral because everyone is doing it, NOT necessarily because it's the best product on the market.

All BB and CC cream formulas tend to break me out. I find most of them too thick or chalky as well. Men I'm close to would always comment that they could see my foundation when I would wear a BB cream no matter how thinly I applied it. The original BB cream Illuminare that launched over 15 years ago never did that to me and is probably why I have such high expectations out of the other BB creams on the market. The coverage and glow I got from Illuminare (thus the name) is also hard to compete with (and it never made me break out if I washed my skin correctly).

Back to cushion compacts. The reason I dislike them so much is because it's easy to harbor sweat, pollution and bacteria in those cushions! Once you touch your face with a brush or sponge you're putting the bacteria back on to the cushion. Yech! In my opinion this is just asking for acne.

The Face Shop supposedly has a patented "screen cell" that is different than the other cushions. It is made of a net that is 99.9% antibacterial. My guess is they are probably better (and more fun), but being trained and licensed in bacteriology none of them sit well with me.

Many customers like the glow they get from the cushion compact formulations, but for consumers and with oily skin they have reported having oilier skin than they do with the traditional BB and CC creams. This is why customers with dry skin really like this compact.

Another old invention that poses some of the same issues is the Mineral Powder dispensing brush. It holds your powder, bronzer or blush in a chamber and disperses it as you swipe across your face.

Given that makeup brushes should be cleaned ALL of the time (especially if you are prone to breakouts) you probably should steer clear from this tool. It's not really sanitary. If you are a makeup artist and using this dispensing brush on other models or customers you deserve a time out. I believe in most states it would actually be against the law to use these brushes because it's almost impossible to clean them properly.

If you are prone to acne then you should avoid these brushes all together. Again bacteria, sweat and debris sit in these guys. Even though the powder itself does not harbor the bacteria, the brush does.

If you're still not deterred by bacteria and the potential risk of acne like the 75% of Koreans who use cushion products (according to PBN) then I suggest using a cosmetic sanitizer. Beauty So Clean claims not to alter the formula of your makeup and I personally have models that carry it around on their photo shoots that no longer have the breakout issues they once did before they started bringing the sanitizer to photo shoots!

The moral of the story is if the product can't be cleaned and disinfected and you're prone to breakouts then you probably shouldn't purchase it.

STRESS AND HAIRLOSS CURES

2015-02-18T00:38:00.000-05:00

Photo Courtesy Livestrong.com

Last week I had attended a tradeshow event here in NYC. There were a lot of great brands with some future market potential. There was one company in particular that had a hair growth supplement that I will eventually reveal if our testing brings forth positive independent results. I can say it had a lot of great stuff in it, but in the end it's all about absorption.

Hair loss in women is becoming a major issue lately and this company reminded me that hair loss is about much more than products that clog your scalp or the lack of blood flow that happens at the neckline when you have stress (which restricts nutrients from getting to the scalp). Dr. Pugliese even says that women's hair loss these days can be caught like a cold just by sleeping in the same bed with a man who has hair loss issues! It doesn't help that we are in a constant fight or flight society!

What I loved at the show other than being forced to get my nails done is the fact that a company was trying to educate the media about deep science; about a receptor in the roots that stops hair from growing when cortisol is released into the system. I am REALLY over simplifying it, but studies are now close to confirming you can trigger hair loss biochemically with stress. In other words it's about more than circulation. It's about inflammation and cellular signals generally brought on by stress.

It's hard not to speak geek without sounding like I'm from another planet, but check out how stress inhibits hair growth in mice thanks to "Neuropeptide Substance P". Neuropeptide P is released by the brain or spinal cord when there is pain involved.

Neuropeptide Substance P as found in Wikipedia is also effected by emotion (i.e. Stress). It also has a lot to do with how our bodies respond to pain, healing and more. If the right receptor isn't present then out goes the hair!

There is a section in the Wikipedia entry that talks about how naked mole rats (hairless) lack receptors to Substance P. They have a very high pain threshold since there is no receptor to substance p.

Anyway what can we do about it now? As usual I take 5 mg (not mcg) of Biotin. (Speak with your doctor about that first. I also massage the base of my neck as well as my scalp to increase blood flow to the brain. A lot of blowout bars are itching to give scalp massages theses days. As for inflammation it is best to find foods and beverages that are on the alkaline scale (less sugar, dairy, alcohol and more dark fruits and vegetables......and alkaline water). Oh and stay away from the silicone hair products the just plug up the scalp!

I'll keep you posted on that hair study in the future! Let's just say Saw Palmetto might be the next Dr. Oz special miracle all over your email/spam! We've had enough raspberry keytones to last us a lifetime than you!

P.S. Early male pattern baldness is also linked to prostate cancer so if this works there is a potential for prostate cancer risks to also drop (wink, wink).