But it’s not.

GM, it seems, is delaying their IPO until after the Nov. 2nd mid-term elections. What in the world do elections have to do with GM’s IPO?

Politics Shouldn’t Dictate GM’s Business

GM’s bailout definitely had political ramifications, but I’m one of these idealistic people who believes bailing out GM and Chrysler was the best option available. While I’m a believer in free-market capitalism, as an observer of the auto industry I recognize allowing GM or Chrysler to go under would have crippled the US auto industry. GM, and to a lesser degree Chrysler, use many of the same suppliers that companies like Ford, Toyota, Nissan, and Honda use.

If GM had gone under, it’s likely that dozens of major suppliers would have collapsed as well. The domino effect of suppliers going out of business could have killed a re-surging Ford, not to mention putting a lot of autoworkers, dealership employees, etc. out of work. The bailout prevented this from happening, and love it or hate it, this decision might have even helped to prevent a deeper recession (maybe – only the historians will know for sure).

In any case, the bailout is done, right? GM has paid back their $6.7 billion loan, and perhaps someday in the future stock sales are going to return the rest of the $50 billion the US government provided to prevent GM’s collapse.

Yet GM isn’t allowed to start selling stock until after the mid-term election. This decision has been made by officials at the Treasury department, and I suspect it’s because they don’t want to confront the following fact until after the elections are over:

GM’s bailout isn’t a money-maker for taxpayers.

Is that a surprise to any thinking American? Why, then, are politicians dictating GM’s financial policy?

Anyone?

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You might want to read through this once before you do it…or watch the video.

Click here to view the embedded video.

1. Turn on the ignition (do not start the truck) and make sure that the odometer is set to “TRIP A.”

2. Turn off the ignition to the point where you could remove the key if you wanted to.

3. Push and hold the trip odometer reset knob using your left hand.

4. Using your right hand, turn the ignition switch on (do not start the truck).

5. Hold down the trip odometer reset knob for at least 5 seconds until the “TRIP A” odometer reading counts down to “000000″ and holds that reading for 1 second.

What you'll see when you hold down the reset knob

6. If you’ve done it right, the maintenance light will turn off.

7. You can let go of the trip odometer reset knob now.

Related:

• How to change the oil on your 5.7L Tundra
• Synthetic vs. Regular Oil – Which one should you use in your Tundra?
• Tundra goes 10k miles between oil changes

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My initial response was “why not?”, but that’s really not much of an answer. So, I did a little digging into the safety benefits of daytime running lights. Here’s what I found:

1. Daytime running lights aren’t required in the USA, but they’re quite popular in Europe and Canada. Canada, Denmark, Finland, Hungary, Iceland, Norway, and Sweden all legally require vehicles to have daytime running lights. In the US, GM made daytime running lights a standard safety feature starting in 1999, and a lot of other manufacturers (Lexus, Mercedes, Saab, Subaru, Volvo, VW, etc.) have done so as well.

2. Multiple studies indicate daytime running lights work. According to a series of studies conducted in Norway, Denmark, and Canada, daytime running lights:

• Reduced daytime crashes between 6-11%
• Reduced left-hand turn crashes by 34%-37%
• Reduced crashes involving pedestrians by 28%
• When crashes did occur, the severity of the crashes was lower on vehicles with daytime running lights (slower speeds)

3. Despite study results, there are many doubters. While multiple studies conducted by governments and private entities around the world seem to indicate that daytime running lights are a safety feature, there are critics of daytime running lights who say:

• Many of the studies that found daytime running lights offered a significant safety benefit were conducted in Canada, Norway, and Denmark, where light levels are different compared to the rest of Europe and North America.
• Many of the studies used relatively small samples.
• Many of the studies were conducted as other safety features were added. Anti-lock braking systems, for example, were being added to vehicles at the same time that daytime running lights where being tested.

4. NHTSA’s most recent study finds no significant benefit to daytime running lights. It’s a little hard to track down, but NHTSA technical report HS 811 029 (pdf) states:

This is the third statistical analysis conducted by NHTSA to evaluate the effectiveness of daytime running lights (DRLs)…the analysis found that DRLs have no statistically significant overall effects

NHTSA’s study did find that daytime running lights reduced light truck crashes about 5%, but otherwise they had no statistically significant impact on safety.

What Does It All Mean?

So, how can these differences between studies be explained? The NHTSA report explains that many of the older studies used a less reliable statistical model (simple odds) rather than a more statistically robust “ratio of odds” method. The NHTSA study also mentions that the definition of “daytime” may differ between studies. If we try to apply a little common sense here:

1. There is no statistical safety benefit to daytime running lights during daylight hours, but there’s no conclusive data about their effectiveness during dawn and dusk.
2. While earlier studies have flaws, it must be acknowledged that daytime running lights seemed to be more effective in Northern climates where natural light isn’t as bright.

Anyone else see a pattern here? During low-light conditions, headlights seem to be a good safety feature.

No kidding.

Read more about daytime running lights here:

• http://www.ibiblio.org/rdu/DRLs/studies.htm
• http://www.iihs.org/research/qanda/drl.html
• http://www.usroads.com/journals/rmej/9912/rm991203.htm
• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daytime_running_lamp

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If so, this is the post for you. Here is how you go about removing the daytime running lights feature from your 2007+ Toyota Tundra.

Parts and Tools You Need

First, you’ll need a flasher module without daytime running lights. For a 2010, the part number is 81980-0C020. Danny managed to order that part from his local Toyota dealer for $55.

Next, you’ll need the following tools:

• 10mm deep-well socket, socket wrench, and extension
• Toyota plastic panel prying tools (optional, but will make the job a little easier)

Step-by-Step Process

1. Disconnect negative battery post.

NOTE: Once you disconnect power, your vehicle’s electronic accessories may lose their memory or codes. This means that you may only lose your programmed radio stations if your truck is mostly stock, or you may lose all your fancy stereo settings, alarm system settings, etc. Be sure to check your owner’s manual and any accessory manuals before you get started, and remember that TundraHeadquarters.com isn’t responsible for you and your truck if you make this mod.

2. Remove the plastic door sill. It’s simply clipped into wire loom clips. Pull it up gently and it will pop lose. See image #1 below.

Image #1

3. Remove the driver side left kick panel. There is one thumb screw and 2 internal clips. Please note the locations of the internal clips to prevent damage when removing. See image #1 above and #2 below.

Image #2

4. Remove the lower dash panel. There are 2 -10mm bolts and a bunch of plastic clips. Be careful not to break any clips or damage any wires connected to accessories. See image #3 below.

Image #3 - note the red arrow

5. Once the lower dash panel has been moved, you can see the flasher module on the far left directly underneath the mirror controls and held in place with a single 10mm nut. This is where you will need a 10mm deep well socket wrench with an extension. See image #4 below.

Image #4 - There is a slightly yellow circle surrounding the flasher module

6. Pull the old flasher module out, unplug and replace with the new one. See image #5 below.

Image #5

7. Re-install the flasher module, re-assemble the dash, check for lose and/or remaining parts, re-connect the battery, and it’s done.

NOTE: Click on any of the images above to get a better view.

*Special thanks to Danny for taking the time to send these photos in, not to mention all the comments and other contributions he makes here.

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1. They’re pretty much the same as a normal engines. Aside from a different set of spark plugs, injectors that can pulse more fuel, and a more corrosion resistant fuel system, flex-fuel engines are essentially identical to regular old gasoline engines. To see what “essentially” means, read more below.

2. When you run E85, your fuel economy drops 20-30%. This is because ethanol contains less chemical energy than gasoline. Put another way, ethanol burns cooler than gas, so it takes more than one gallon of ethanol to do the same amount of traveling that you can do on one gallon of gas. Provided that E-85 is at least 20-30% cheaper than gas, it’s a push. Otherwise, running E-85 might be costing you money.

3. E-85 absorbs water like crazy. That’s not a scientific observation of course, but it’s a good description. Check this out:

ethanol is hygroscopic by nature. This means that it immediately soaks up water both in liquid form and as condensation right from the atmosphere. Hence ethanol cannot be transported through petrol pipelines. Worse yet is that any prolonged exposure to the air itself can begin to dilute ethanol (due to water absorption)

This explanation from the Energy Refuge blog is specifically about the transportation problems associated with pure ethanol, but all of the above information applies to E-85 fuel.

E-85 will absorb whatever water is nearby, and given enough time it will dilute itself enough to cause combustion problems. While is is very rare, it *is* technically possible. The downside to water absorption is that burning “wet” E-85 can cause excessive amounts of formic acid to be created during combustion. Formic acid can eat engines, which means that…

4. A flex fuel engine’s parts are treated to resist formic acid. Because the risk of water contamination in an E-85 engine are fairly high, automakers use a special nitride coating on all the internal engine parts that may be exposed. This prevents excessive wear if a particularly watery batch of E85 is burned.

5. Manufacturers may recommend more frequent oil changes when running E-85. If you live in an area where E-85 is readily available and cost effective, you may be using it every day. If so, your local dealership may suggest you change your oil more frequently. Their reason? Acids formed during ethanol combustion can reduce the lubrication properties of motor oil, therefore requiring more frequent changes.

Unfortunately, this is pure hogwash. Most modern oils contain more than enough detergents to nuetralize the acids that E-85 may produce without compromising lubrication, so they do not need to be changed any earlier than normal. Read more about why more frequent oil changes are not needed if you’re running E-85 if you’d like to find out more.

6. (Bonus!) When your manufacturer built your flex-fuel vehicle, they got a special fuel economy credit from the government. In a system that’s both unseemly and absurd, auto manufacturers are given fuel economy “credits” for building flex-fuel vehicles even though these vehicles don’t get better fuel economy. The TerraPass blog has a great post that explains how a Chevy Suburban was credited with a 30mpg fuel economy rating despite actually getting 12-16 mpg – check it out.

Finally, for you Tundra owners out there, a flex-fuel engine is not compatible with the TRD Supercharger.

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Be sure to read part one if you haven’t already.

Question 6: How much wear-and-tear does towing put on a normal, un-modified automatic transmission? Can a transmission rebuild or valve body kit reduce this wear-and-tear? If so, how?

John: Towing is probably harder on the transmission than it is on any other part of the vehicle. The actual amount of wear and tear is going to depend on a lot of factors, but towing is always going to increase wear.

A valve body modification is going to quicken shifts, make shifts a more efficient transfer of power, and result in less slippage and less heat (especially at the clutches themselves). This is a durability improvement because the clutch lining stays cooler, reducing wear and heat build-up.

Click here to view the embedded video.

A performance transmission rebuild includes a ton of durability improvements that range from metallurgical treatments and processes that increase the strength of the geartrain components and sprags, to the addition of discs in the clutch packs to greatly increase their holding capacity. The additional discs we add are made from a high performance material that not only has a higher coefficient of friction, but is also much more resistant to heat.

Of course, all of the valve body work is included in the full build as well.

Question 7: What transmission modifications would you recommend to a Tundra owner who tows on a daily basis?

John: In no particular order for towing I would recommend:

• Putting the biggest external trans cooler that will fit easily on the vehicle (in conjunction with using the factory oil to antifreeze unit)
• Using a good synthetic ATF
• Getting the valve body work done

Question 8: Your website mentions some pretty dramatic performance improvements for your high-stall torque converters – anywhere from .5 seconds to 1 second in improved quarter mile times. Is there a trade-off in reliability with these units?

John: Actually, reliability is improved. In addition to configuring torque multiplication and stall speed to match the application, there are many durability improvements that we do at the same time.

Our converters include furnace braised or welded fins, an improved material converter lock-up clutch, and – in most cases – a better set of internal bearings. You end up with a much stronger unit than the stock piece.

Question 9: Just for fun – what’s the fastest you’ve ever driven a 1/4 mile? My fastest is 12.73
seconds…pretty tame.

John: 8.87@150mph…still pretty tame but it was also a street legal, street driven vehicle.

Finally – the last question from part one of the interview…

Who makes the best transmission between GM, Ford, Dodge, and Toyota?

John: Out of those three I’m going to say Toyota.

Special thanks to John Lombardo of IPT for answering our questions. Anything we forgot to ask?

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At the request of Charles, a TundraHeadquarters.com reader, we contacted Import Performance Transmissions to learn more about their performance transmission options for the Toyota Tundra.

Our interview is with John Lombardo, founder and co-owner of IPT. John has been making performance modifications to transmissions since 1987.

Question 1: Are the bulk of your customers looking for more performance from their factory transmission?

John: Yes, but performance is a pretty broad term. Our customers range from people with totally stock vehicles who just want a stronger, more reliable transmission, to rock crawlers and racers with 6 second vehicles.

Question 2: Often times automakers, in an effort to save money, make design compromises that hurt performance. Generally speaking, what are the three most significant limitations/design compromises of an OEM automatic transmission?

John: I would say that first, factory transmissions are designed more for fuel efficiency and “shift pleasability” than they are for solid performance. I also find that factory transmissions don’t have any “extra” capacity or strength. If you modify your truck and increase power, the factory transmission might not be able to handle it.

Question 3: While I understand why a sports car owner would be interested in making their transmission “faster” (for lack of a better word), why would a truck owner who isn’t worried about speed be interested in a performance rebuild kit or modified valve body?

John: First, let’s address a misconception. The concept that a performance transmission is going to make you significantly faster is false. While a faster shift may result in something measurable on a time slip, it’s going to be pretty minimal.

The main reason that anyone should want to invest in performance transmission work is for the increased durability. Having your truck shift more “like a truck” is also something that many people like.

Question 4: It sounds like a modified valve body makes shifts much firmer – have any owners found the shifts to be too firm?

John: We don’t do the super-firm “break your neck” type of shift thing. I learned many years ago that even if someone asks for that they will hate it sooner or later.

That said, our modification is customizable to a customer’s preference. We have a minimum setting that will provide good durability and extend the transmission’s life and we then can go up from there in regards to shift feel.

Question 5: What half-ton truck manufacturer makes the best transmission in your opinion – Ford, Toyota, Dodge, or GM?

John: Read part two for the answer to this question and others!

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Toyota's new plant will employ 2,000 directly and thousands more indirectly at suppliers co-located in Blue Ridge

Toyota critics argue that Toyota’s 2,000 new hires aren’t actually “new” at all – that they are just cheaper replacements for NUMMI workers who were let go earlier this year.

Critics Attack Toyota’s Mississippi Venture

People who have been following Toyota will recognize that the new Blue Ridge plant will replace Corolla production that was lost when NUMMI was closed earlier this year. Many critics feel that Toyota shouldn’t get any credit for hiring new workers because they are merely replacing NUMMI jobs that were lost. NUMMI’s closure resulted in about 4,000 assembly jobs lost, and Mississippi brings back about half that number.

NUMMI also assembled the Tacoma, which Toyota recently began producing in San Antonio. Toyota hired 1,000 additional assembly workers at the Texas plant for this purpose, so the total count is: NUMMI – 4,000 assembly jobs lost. San Antonio and Blue Ridge – 3,000 assembly jobs gained.

But that’s not the whole story.

NUMMI was a joint venture between GM and Toyota, and NUMMI’s closure was a direct result of GM’s decision to abandon the plant during their bankruptcy. While Toyota definitely deserves some of the blame for NUMMI jobs lost, it’s a little too simplistic to blame Toyota exclusively for NUMMI.

Those who criticize Toyota for NUMMI job losses seem to be glossing over huge job losses brought on by Ford, GM, and Chrysler since the recession began in 2007. According to AOL’s Daily Finance, GM has been the “king” of layoffs since the recession began with more than 100k workers fired. Ford laid off nearly 16k workers in this same period, and Chrysler let go more than 13k. It would seem then that Toyota’s decision to close NUMMI and lay off 4,000 assembly workers (brought on by GM’s bankruptcy) should be compared to immensely larger layoffs at GM, Ford, and Chrysler.

At worst, Toyota has held serve by closing the NUMMI plant and hiring new workers in San Antonio and Mississippi.

At best, Toyota should receive credit for continuing to invest in US auto production while Ford, GM, and Chrysler lay off thousands and expand production in Mexico.

What do you think?

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Last Friday, PickupTrucks.com published the new Tundra tow ratings. As you can see in the table below, they’ve dropped as much as 11% on some configurations:

Here’s why the Tundra’s ratings have fallen:

1. The new standard requires manufacturers to assume their vehicles are carrying more weight. Under the old system, manufacturers could get away with rating a brand new truck assuming that it was only carrying one person, no extra equipment, no gear, etc. The new standard requires manufacturers to account for the weight of a driver, a passenger, common options, and popular after-market equipment. This will add about 500 lbs (on average) to a vehicle’s curb weight, reducing the tow rating accordingly.

2. New ratings assume a standard trailer cross-section and frontal area. If you’ve ever tried to tow a really big boat, you know that weight isn’t the only factor to consider while towing. A trailer with a large frontal surface are can be impossible to tow at or near highway speeds because of aerodynamic drag. The new standard specifies a common cross section and frontal area for all trailers, accounting for drag.

3. The ratings must be backed by severe duty tests. It’s not enough to use a standard size trailer and to account for a “normal” payload – the ratings also require all manufacturers to conduct extensive testing and prove that their truck can withstand severe conditions.

As of today, the 2011 Tundra will be the only half-ton truck on the market that adheres to the new SAE towing standards. All the other trucks available in 2011 (again, as of this posting), may or may not meet the standards (pending announcements).

Ram Double-Talk on SAE Standard?

A Ram spokesperson was quoted in the PickupTrucks.com story as saying that the 2011 Ram 1500 “meets the key elements” of the new SAE standard. However, I contacted Ram PR person Nick Cappa about this very question a few weeks ago, and at that time he told me that the Ram 1500 did not meet the SAE standard.

It is certainly possible that the Ram 1500 “meets the key elements” of the standard using the existing tow rating, but it seems highly unlikely. Ram’s website has a disclaimer on their 10,450 lbs max tow rating that states the rating is calculated assuming a 150lbs driver and that any additional equipment must be deducted from the rating. This disclaimer doesn’t follow the new SAE standard requirements, which dictate that tow ratings should be calculated assuming both a driver and a passenger, common equipment, etc. Because of this fact, it would be expected that the Ram 1500’s tow rating would decline once the new standards are adopted.

Ram’s statement the 1500 “meets the key standards” seems to contradict the obvious.

This isn’t the first time Ram has made some suspicious tow rating statements. The Ram 1500’s max tow rating increased from 9,100 lbs in 2009 to 10,450 lbs in 2010, yet according to this PickupTrucks.com story, the 2009 and 2010 Ram 1500 are “identical” and a Ram PR spokesman at that time said “the 2010 Dodge Ram increased its gross combined weight rating by 1,500 pounds without any component or calibration changes to the vehicle.”

So, what’s the read? Did Ram under-rate the towing capacity on the 1500, or is this simply double talk? Comment below.

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This electric Tundra is trail ready AND environmentally friendly!

On the outside, not much has changed. The electric Toyota Tundra’s styling is faithful to its brawny gasoline-powered sibling, with a few notable modifications that should increase its appeal amongst off-road drivers. The addition of knobby all-terrain tires, a lifted suspension and an aggressive grille-guard to this version of the pickup reveal Toyota’s crafty plan to snag the trail riders who are often left out of the electric vehicle revolution. The truck also sports extensive off-road lighting options that take full advantage of the additional candlepower produced by the vehicle’s battery system.

Underneath its skin, the all-electric Toyota Tundra introduces a number of design alterations meant to help take advantage of its new power train. A strengthened C-channel chassis featuring high-impact plastic crossmembers maintain the strength of the full-size truck while introducing serious weight savings. The pickup’s bed can pivot up and away in order to allow for easy access to the battery compartment, making maintenance simple and offering the chance for owners to upgrade to a longer-range power pack if desired. The truck’s special springs and dampers can also be easily swapped in and out in order to allow for drivers to add or remove stiffness depending upon how rough the off-road going gets.

This electric truck isn't afraid of water - even a raging river

The truck’s steering and transmission have additionally been simplified, with a new single-servo system offering the ability to turn all four wheels if desired (front-wheel steering is of course standard). The transmission is a three-speed unit that features both manual and automatic shifting, and power is sent to front and rear locking differentials to give the four-wheel drive electric Tundra serious traction in all situations.

The icing on the cake when it comes to the new electric Toyota Tundra is the extensive customization program that Toyota is rolling out in support of this ambitious project. A full line of accessories, custom colors, decals and improvements to its rugged suspension system help set the truck apart from other battery-powered vehicles currently out there on the market. Given that the decision to introduce an electric full-size truck is such a game-changer, it is not surprising that Toyota has elected to get behind this superb version of the Tundra in a big way.

Full power and performance numbers are expected to be announced shortly.

If you haven’t figured it out already, check this out. Special thanks to MEDic for the river crossing pic.

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