Tuppence Ha'penny

Good Day Sunshine

2012-06-01T08:30:00.000+01:00

I never wear trousers. I never wear anything not fitted at the waist. And I never wear high, round necklines.

Rules are made to be broken.

The trousers (you may remember them from last year) are not quite high waisted enough to pass for vintage, which is why I need to wear something long over the top. Out came this tunic. I'd worn it in June last year but figured it didn't really suit me, so it went into the to-sell pile (I wanted to repro the fabric first, which is why it hasn't gone anywhere yet). Anyway, I put it on and ended up rather liking the look! I still don't know if I should keep it - I can't really see myself getting the wear out of it to warrant it a place in my wardrobe, so it might go back into the selling pile (once I've repro'd the fabric, of course).

I fancied myself as Brigitte Bardot, chanelling carefree Riviera 60s chic. No? Maybe not.

I styled my hair to go with the sixties vibe (I've got a real hair - my hair - rat/hairpiece which I use to boost the beehive). The new length works great for that early 60s flick, too.

Ooh, and I also got a new shade of lipstick! It looks quite red in the pictures, but it's a bright hot pink and I love it. It was £1 from Superdrug's MUA range - when I decided I wanted to try a pink lipstick I didn't want to splash out on expensive lipsticks just to experiment with different colours. For £1 it's really not a bad quality lipstick, either.

Sunglasses, ebay; 1960s tunic, ebay; Trousers, H&M last year; Handbag, etsy; Polka dot shoes, available in my shop.

La Bardot in capris and loose-fitting Middy sailor top. Yeah, she works it better.

Summer makes life worth living

2012-05-31T08:30:00.000+01:00

Sunshine makes me happy. Hula hooping makes me happy. Happy day!

Peasant blouse, New Look (last year); Shorts, made to measure in Thailand; Sandals, Marks & Spencer; Bakelite & plastic bangles, various; 1950s hairslide, gift from mother.

Also, anyone near Ealing wants to come along to hula hooping with my lovely instructor Kim it's at Gold's Gym in Hanwell, 1:30pm on a Wednesday. You have to be a gym member, but if you don't want to join I can get a "guest pass" for £15 which is for the whole day, so you can use the sauna, jacuzzi etc. Kim also sells the hoops for £15 each.

Vintage for a Cause

2012-05-30T08:38:00.000+01:00

Vintage Shopping – Fashion & Styling Advice – Music from the Three Belles

Love to put a fabulous retro look together but unsure where to start? Then come to Mary's Living & Giving Shop at Primrose Hill this Thursday 31st May, 6pm-9pm, to hear Naomi Thompson, vintage stylist and shopping specialist talk about all things vintage. Naomi will be reading from her new book "Style Me Vintage" which is packed full of fantastic tips. She will explain what to look for when shopping vintage, when to part with your cash and most importantly what to avoid. In addition to signing copies of the book on the evening itself, Naomi and her trusted cover girl, Jennifer Siggs, will be on hand to answer your personal questions - anything from how to buy and date vintage to figuring out the best era for your body shape. No need to book an appointment for a one-to-one session with Naomi or Jennifer, just come along on the evening and pop your name down on the list (first come first served basis).

The sensational 1940s inspired trio The Three Belles will provide live music whilst you shop pieces that have been donated by some of the most coveted vintage stores in London as well as vintage inspired pieces from an A to Z of designers, Allegra Hicks to Zandra Rhodes. Enter the raffle and be in with the chance of winning fabulous prizes including a Tuppence Ha'penny upcycled record bag.

We are expecting a big turn out and are offering VIP QUEUE JUMP entry to anybody bringing a vintage donation. Any donations donated before the evening will also be hugely appreciated.

Whether you want to buy a glamourous frock, learn how to add vintage pieces into your everyday look, or just help support a good cause, this is an event not to be missed. Rumour has it that Naomi will also be donating a few personal pieces from her wardrobe so you never know, you may even find that special something you've been searching for!

Prices: items starting from £10

100% of proceeds from the evening will go to Save the Children.

So I got a haircut

2012-05-29T08:39:00.000+01:00

Those who follow me on facebook and twitter already had a sneak preview, but this weekend a bunch of us headed over to Shona's for a group session with our lovely hairdresser Wendy. After much debate, I decided to take the plunge and go for a much shorter style - quite an adventure after having long hair most of my life (the only time I've had it anywhere like this short was when I was about 11, and I quickly let it grow back out that time).

And the day after...

What do you think? My mother and sister say it makes me look younger. Either way, I'm delighted with it - it's perfect for styling 30s, 40s, 50s or 60s (when Wendy first blowdried it, she gave it a fabulous Jackie Kennedy bouffant - so much fun!). I've been trying out different hats with this new length too.

Now I just need to learn how to style it properly with rollers and things. I've never really been able to do pincurls easily because it's so thick and I'm unskilled, but at this length I might actually be able to manage it - watch this space!

The Ballroom Belles Tea Dress

2012-05-28T14:04:00.002+01:00

I thought I'd keep the sewing technicalities of this dress separate from my post earlier today on the 1940s Relived event at Brooklands, where it got its debut.

Pattern: Hollywood 1552 from 1939 or 1940, the same as I used for my Big Apple dress.

Fabric: One of my own fabric repros, Ballroom Belles, which was based on photos I took of an original 1940s tea dress. It's available through spoonflower; I got it printed on cotton poplin but it would be lovely on their silk crepe-de-chine or silk-cotton blend fabric.

Notions: Vintage metal zip, amazing vintage buttons (probably dating from around the same time as the pattern, and I had a set of three so it was obviously meant to be), vintage plastic buckle, bias binding (also vintage, as it happens!).

Techniques: Bound buttonholes - I don't have a buttonhole attachment for my vintage Singer so I thought I might as well try bound buttonholes as the pattern directed. They're not going to win any awards, but I don't think they're too bad for a first attempt.

Alterations: Because the original pattern is in quite a large size, I had made significant alterations in its first incarnation, the Big Apple Dress, so I transferred those adjustments to a traced version of the pattern and used that. I used the alternate sleeves on this version, except I gathered instead of darting the sleeve cap because I like the look; I also made a little tuck in the hem of the sleeves to make them closer fitting to the arm and accentuate the puffed shape (sorry I haven't got a close-up photo, but you can just about see the effect, especially in the top pic).

Make again? For sure - I love this pattern and I'll definitely revisit it again (in fact my sailor dress will use the same pattern, with an altered bodice).

Brooklands 1940s Relived

2012-05-28T09:05:00.002+01:00

A week ago last Saturday Daddy, the chap and I joined other 1940s enthusiasts at Brooklands Museum in Weybridge, Surrey. Brooklands was the first purpose-built motor racing circuit in the country, laid out in 1907. The site was given over to aircraft production during both world wars, and it's this wartime significance which inspired the 1940s Relived event. I hooked up with Charly, who made her dress - it was her first sewing poject, and she did a great job!

Photo from Incendiary Blonde

I really enjoyed the event. It was like a smaller-scale Goodwood Revival, but feels truly authentic thanks to the site's history; the filling station is the real deal, and there's even an actual pillbox and air raid shelter which were opened to the public exclusively for the event. It was great that so many people also got into the spirit and dressed up in 40s gear - encouraged by the 20% discount on the £10 entry fee.

Photo from Incendiary Blonde

The museum holds planes, bombs and memorabilia from Brooklands' time as a factory. We were especially fascinated by this Wellington bomber. It was built at Brooklands and took part in bombing raids on Germany, but later crashed into Loch Ness after developing engine trouble on a training flight (all the crew got out, though the rear gunner was killed when his parachute failed to open). In 1985 a team of Loch Ness Monster hunters found the plane, and it was recovered and returned to its birthplace at Brooklands.

Photo from Incendiary Blonde

And yes, I persuaded the chap to get retro'd up - doesn't he look handsome?

Outfit details: Ballroom Belles tea dress, made by me; Record hat, made by me; Record bag, made by me; Gloves, vintage fair; Shoes, purchased in Thailand.

The event has already been confirmed for next year, so put the 18th of May 2013 in your diary!

Get the Look: Coronation Year

2012-05-25T08:30:00.000+01:00

Queen Elizabeth ascended the throne in February 1952 upon the death of her father King George VI. She wasn't actually officially crowned until June the following year, so this summer's Jubilee celebrations combine the year of her accession with the date of her coronation. So if you're looking to put together your jubilee outfit, here's some inspiration from 1952-53 (with a bonus pic of the Queen from '54).

The early 50s look - especially in Britain - is not, as most people suppose, one of circle skirts and layers of froufrou tulle petticoats (Vivien of Holloway is not an early 50s style). Though Dior's New Look had by then caught on, ongoing fabric rationing meant that vast skirts were impractical for many; skirts on early 50s day dresses mainly took on a full A-line or straight, slender shape, hanging somewhere around mid-calf.

1953

The classic shirtwaist was big news - single breasted, double breasted, small buttons, big buttons or zip-front - and available in just about any fabric you can think of. Oversize collars were quite the thing.

1953

Period-correct sleeve styles include cap, sleeveless, short sleeve and halterneck (though less common in daywear; the halterneck is usually reserved for beachwear).

1953

Sheer fabrics were popular, from the cotton voiles below to diaphonous printed nylons.

1953

Novelty detailing was a la mode, like the two-tone polka dot dress below. Accessories are also key: It was also common for a dress to come with a matching jacket or bolero. Hats tend to be close-fitting to the head, either brimless Juliet caps or wide-brimmed sunhats. And naturally, don't forget your dainty day gloves.

1952

Sheer yokes were popular at the time (often with a prim Peter Pan collar), but this crochet net style is interesting. Also love the dress with matching mini cape.

1952

There was a lot of variety in novelty fabrics in the early 50s. Textured cottons and whimsical prints were popular, and early synthetics (polyester was just starting to become available, but wouldn't have been common in 1952) were gaining ground, popular with a postwar generation eager to embrace the new, the modern, the scientific.

1952

Lastly, here's dear old Queenie herself, photographed in Australia in 1954 wearing this delightfully chic pastel (or white - can't tell in b/w!) ensemble - a simple short sleeved, square necked pencil dress with lace overlay and skinny belt. Loving the long gloves and neatly furled parasol.

1954

{Sponsor Spotlight} Be Unique Jewellery

2012-05-24T08:30:00.000+01:00

Please welcome my newest sponsor, Be Unique Jewellery. Sarah creates adorable jewellery inspired by vintage Britannia. Think bunting flags, prints, teacups and teapots, 50s style, rockabilly designs and much more! I'll hand over to Sarah and she can tell you more about her business in her own words.

Hi there, I'm Sarah and I love creating vintage-inspired jewellery pieces. I studied Fine art throughout my education and have always loved being creative. I opened my shop almost 2 years ago, targeting the lovers of retro, vintage and unique, offbeat fashion.

Back when I found my love for the 50s there was very little on the market for a woman of my unique taste (short of trekking into Camden Market at any given opportunity), so I decided to create my own jewellery designs inspired by vintage fashion. This quickly became an addictive hobby for me and I soon found pearls, swallows and vintage beaded earrings and necklaces spilling out of my jewellery box.

I soon found that others loved my work too! I was approached by a work colleague who requested that I make a custom made necklace for her and I remember it well: A filigree heart locket with freshwater pearls and a silver swallow. This prompted me to start my Etsy shop, and Be Unique Jewellery was born.

Currently I am working on a new collection "Gallery Glamour" in my Etsy store. These designs are all hand drawn by me with ink on shrink plastic and brought to life with silver chains, beautiful beads and more! The idea behind "Gallery Glamour" is the combination of my love for art, vintage and jewellery design, all in one unique little piece that you can wear whenever and wherever. Because they are individually hand drawn, each item is unique.

My favourite piece in my collection by far is my floral teapot and teacup necklace, inspired by Cath Kidston and Great British picnics! I love the vintage style teacup and pot and adore how beautifully the pattern comes out after it's baked and varnished.

My most popular item is the bunting flag necklace which was inspired by the upcoming Jubilee and vintage Britain. It features 4 bunting flags decorated with gingham, candy stripes, polka dots (of course) and the Union jack which has been decorated in a unique and vintage style.

Why not take a gander at my collection on Etsy and let me know your thoughts. I enjoy creating custom pieces and would love to hear if you have any design ideas that you would like to see me bring to life.

You can find me via:
Facebook: www.facebook.com/BeUniqueJewelleryCollection
Twitter: @BeUniqueJewels
Google Plus: www.goo.gl/uqFJB
Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/beuniquejewels
and follow our blog: beuniquejewellery.blogspot.co.uk

I will also be exhibiting at The Boileroom Vintage Clothing and Accessories Fair on June 16th at the Boileroom, Guildford. You’re all invited, so come along and say Hi.

The Fruit Salad Sundress

2012-05-23T11:18:00.001+01:00

The tea dress I was working on (post to follow) is a somewhat labour-intensive pattern and I wanted some quick gratification, so I checked my sewing list and started work on this sundress before finishing my previous project. I'd had the material in my stash since my last trip to Thailand, and the pattern about as long. I bought the pattern because it's similar to one of my favourite vintage dresses - the look of a shirtwaist without the bother of buttonholes!

We've just got back from a long weekend camping in Devon - we stopped off in Exeter on the way back yesterday; my sister is moving there in the summer and had some house viewings arranged. The sunshine was perfectly glorious - first actual hot day of the year - and I had an enjoyable mosey around Exeter, discovered the local vintage clothing shops, bought a 1940s straw sun hat for £15 (yay!).

I'm painfully aware that I'm a bit fat at the moment - need to be more disciplined about going to the gym and eating less cake (by the way I'm not saying this so that people tell me I'm not, but rather to somehow excuse my not-so-slender frame, by way of saying "this isn't the real me". Although in my head the "real me" is about 8 1/2 stone, while realistically I'm unlikely ever to attain that!).

Fabric: Cotton fabric purchased in Thailand. 3 metres at something like £4 per metre.

Pattern: Butterick 6431, 1953 (coronation year!).

Alterations: I replaced the four-gore skirt with a full circle for extra swish. The bodice I made exactly to the pattern except to add 1/2" to the lower edge of the front piece (graded up to the sides so the seam would match up with the back piece), because boobage always raises the front waistline slightly.

Make again? Yes! It's such an easy pattern and I really like the fit. I want to make one in red and white candy stripe (perfect for the jubilee weekend!), and one in my clotheshanger chevron repro fabric.

Dress, made by me from a 1953 pattern; Record handbag, similar available in my etsy shop; Shoes, purchased in Thailand (most comfortable shoes ever!). I should have been wearing bangles and done something more with my hair, but I didn't pack bangles or hairspray: glamping fail.

{Style Inspiration} Early 40s Lingerie

2012-05-20T08:30:00.000+01:00

This week's Sunday inspiration is all about underthings! I'll take one of each, please.

A Personal Matter: Toothpaste

2012-05-19T21:56:00.000+01:00

Following up from my underarm freshness post and continuing my "unglamorous ads" series, I bring you a brief history of toothpaste advertising!

Jewsbury & Brown's Oriental Tooth Powder, 1913

Maclean's, 1938

Phillips, 1942

Solidox, 1943

Pepsodent, 1945

Kolynos, 1947

After the war Kolynos reverted to their pre-war "spotlight on charm" advertising theme, but during the war they replaced this slogan with "spotlight on service", featuring women in war work - I'll share those ads in a separate post.

Gibbs, 1948

I imagine this was part of a series, but only this one example crops up in my magazine collection.

Odol, 1948

Pepsodent, 1948

Colgate, 1949

Pepsodent, 1951

Pepsodent, 1952

Colgate, 1952

I think this one's hilarious!

A Sunday Sort of Day

2012-05-16T09:26:00.000+01:00

Sunday was the third anniversary of Matin's father passing away (sadly I never got the chance to meet him; Matin and I met six weeks later), and we've made a sort of tradition to take a quiet "remembrance walk" on the date. I hadn't planned to take outfit photos today but since the weather and the setting were so nice we thought it a shame not to take advantage. So you get to see what I look like on a normal day - hair in a loose ponytail, minimal accessories (in fact the only reason I'm wearing any at all is that I was tidying up my jewellery box in the morning). I've had the necklace since I was about five - it's probably the first piece of jewellery I ever owned, and I thought it was wonderful.

This is my new dress, pale lemon nylon with a cute novelty cactus print - my reward for stalking the vintage category on ebay at random times of day, I snagged it for an exceedingly bargainful £10. It's a couple of sizes too big so it needs a bit of work, but that doesn't stop me from wearing it in the meantime for pottering about in (like I said, this wasn't supposed to be an outfit photo day!). I wasn't wearing a petticoat to start with, but as the nylon is so featherlight the slightest breeze can send it flying so I added one before leaving the house.

1950s dress, ebay; 1950s cardigan, etsy; Hairclip, car boot sale (I think); Necklace (vintage 80s!), mine from when I was little; Bracelets, Primark; Handbag, etsy; Shoes, can't remember - bought them new about 8 years ago.

Why I Wear Vintage

2012-05-15T08:56:00.000+01:00

Inspired by a recent post on Already Pretty in which three guest contributors answered a few questions about their chosen wardrobe aesthetic, I decided to pose myself the same questions. I get asked a lot why I wear vintage, and what I love about the 40s/50s, and honestly I find them the hardest questions to answer. I mean, it's like asking why you like pink, or what you love about pizza: you just do. However, I will do my best to explain what it is about dressing vintage that appeals to me.

My favourite 1940s novelty lovebird print tea dress

As I've recounted on various occasions previously, I've always been drawn to classic styles and have eschewed trousers (with the exception of jeans, though even they have long been banished from my wardrobe) since I decided in my mid teens that they did nothing for my figure. However, much as I would like to present that I've been effortlessly stylish and vintage inspired my whole life, I have to confess that's sadly not the case. For a long time I languished in a style wilderness, often wishing I could go back 50 years to a time when clothes were designed to flatter my body type. Then one day I came across a vintage style blog while researching something on the interweb, and discovered that not only were there other people who enjoyed vintage style, they wore it on a regular basis. Which made me realise that I could too, and I stopped wishing and started wearing the clothes I'd always admired.

So that's why I started dressing vintage "full time", as it were. I've been full-on vintage wearing for about three years now, though as I mentioned I've always really dressed in classic styles - I still have pieces in my wardrobe from my "pre-vintage" days that I wear on a regular basis.

At 18, dressed for the sixth form ball in a Karen Millen devore gown with Edwardian/1910s
lace overblouse and antique jewellery (sorry about the slightly dazed look)

But as to why I wear vintage on a daily basis, to the exclusion of modern fashion, well that's slightly harder to answer. I do sometimes wonder whether I'm limiting myself by eliminating modern looks from my wardrobe, but the clothes in vintage magazines and catalogues excite me in a way modern clothing just doesn't. Part of it is in the detailing - you simply don't find anything like the same level of detail in high street clothes.

Sears, 1940

I also like old things, and I get a kick out of the fact that some of my clothes have survived - against all the odds - for 50, 60, 70, even 100 years. But age isn't the only aspect, and I'm happy to combine modern and me-made repro with original vintage to get the look I want - in fact I even get a certain pleasure in sourcing modern clothing, either thrifted or high street, which looks vintage-y.

Really, the reason it's so difficult to say why I love wearing vintage is that there is no one reason; there's just so much to love. I love looking glamorous and getting complimented on my outfits. I love the thrill of finding a 1950s party frock for £2 at a car boot sale or winning a 1940s novelty print tea dress on ebay for $25. I love recreating a look from history, in the same way as modern fashionistas revel in recreating a designer look on a budget. I love knowing that I'm wearing something unique (that's part of the reason that I don't - yet - own any repro other than me-made, though certain items from Heyday are on my wishlist). I also love being able to indulge my creative side and combine vintage eras with modern for a look that's distinctly "me".

What it comes down to is that I dress this way because it makes me happy - on so many levels. I don't know why I squeal with delight over 1940s peeptoe platform heels while modern strappy sandals leave me cold, and I can't articulate exactly what draws me to certain eras (generally I favour 40s/50s, though lately I've found myself thinking about looks from the 1970s and even the 90s!) any more than I can explain what I like about chocolate hobnobs; I just know I love them.

How about you? Do you find this question the hardest to answer or do you have specific, definable reasons for loving vintage?

1940s Sailor Girl

2012-05-14T08:35:00.001+01:00

Finally the spring-y weather has returned! The first day of sunshine in what seems like forever seemed the perfect opportunity to get my nautical on. This skirt (70s I think) is one I've had for ages and ages, but it was an unflattering mid-calf length and I finally took it up to a more 40s a-little-below-the-knee length earlier this year as part of my year of making challenge.

I've been searching for a sailor sweater for the longest time - I've had a couple on etsy in my favourites for months - and recently found this one on ebay. I should have turned round to show you, it has a proper sailor collar and everything: Perfection. The little celluloid anchor pin may be overkill, but I firmly believe there's no such thing as over-theming an outfit.

And this is the hat I bought at last weekend's vintage fair at Old Spitalfields market, from a lovely seller who I believe is going to be featured in the August issue of Homes & Antiques. It was under a tenner (may have even been £5, I can't remember now), and serves perfectly as the nautical hat that's been on my wishlist for like two years. You can expect to see more of it.

Hat, Old Spitalfields vintage market; Earrings, purchased in Thailand; Sweater, Topshop, via ebay; Celluloid anchor pin, antiques market in Chichester; Skirt, etsy; Handbag, can't remember - car boot or charity shop; Shoes, Clarks via charity shop.

{Style Inspiration} 1940s Illustrated

2012-05-13T09:00:00.000+01:00

For this week's Sunday Style Inspiration I thought I'd bring you some terribly stylish illustrations from my 1940s magazine collection.

1942

Turquoise sailor dress and matching turquoise turban hat? Win.

1942

Possibly the most stylish landgirl ever, in red and pear gingham puff shoulder shirt dress and matching headscarf.

1943

I dream of being able to recreate this hairstyle.

1943

Adorable red and white polka dot blouse with waist ties and matching hair bow, worn with white shorts and what looks like a floral bracelet. Love.

1945

A simple white dress with an opulent (embroidered? printed) sequinned floral design blazing across the bodice.

1945

I don't know whether this would be a blouse or detachable contrast cuffs and dickey insert on a day dress. Either way, it's fabulous - and the pompadour hairstyle is amazing too!

1946

I've featured this to-die-for leopard print ensemble before, way back when, but it's so awesome I think it bears seeing twice!

1948

Loving the double peplum and little crescent shaped clutch.

1948

The tie-side peplum is interesting here, and the triple-layered sleeves.

1949

Red beret with a rhinestone pin, and red and white spotted neckscarf brighten a camel coat.

1949

I'm in love with the entire outfit the lady on the left is wearing: That neckline is to die for, and the plumed hat, and her little pearl necklace, black gloves and parasol/umbrella just complete the look.

Horrible Histories - RAF Pilots Song

2012-05-12T10:00:00.000+01:00

Horrible Histories are back! It's the most amazingly fabulous historical education programme on TV ever, ever. I could happily share practically every one of their songs, but in keeping with the theme of this blog I'll stick with the ones of 20th century relevance! For the latest series they've followed up their brilliant World War Two Girls number with one for the chaps: RAF Pilots.

Bluebells at Osterley Park

2012-05-10T16:37:00.000+01:00

Ah, bluebell season! I love roses, and tulips are delightful, and lilies are fabulously opulent, but my favourite flower for as long as I can remember has been the humble English bluebell (with lavender as a close second). A few weeks back - about the last time we saw sunshine in these parts - we visited our local National Trust property Osterley Park for a stroll through their bluebell-carpeted woodland.

Outfit details: Nylon dress (I guess 1950s because of the full skirt, though the neckline has the look of earlier), from a friend's clearout; Clarks shoes, charity shop; Gloves, thrifted (I can't remember exactly where most of my gloves came from - likely a car boot sale or a vintage shop); Handbag, had it ages, can't remember where it came from originally.

Vintage Bookshelf: Sew Iconic

2012-05-09T11:27:00.000+01:00

Given that I'm making something of a habit of recreating my favourite Hollywood dresses for my own wardrobe, you can imagine how excited I was to hear about a whole book dedicated to the concept, when Lena of Queens of Vintage contacted me about doing a review.

Sew Iconic profiles ten movie costumes, each epitomising an era, with patterns and instructions to make your own version. It's a well thought-out, nicely presented book, though despite efforts to make it accessible to beginners it's still not really suitable for the novice.

Some of my favourite projects are shown below, and you can read my full review over on Queens of Vintage.

The brown polka dot dress worn by Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman

Audrey Hepburn's little black dress from Breakfast at Tiffany's

Marilyn's Seven Year Itch white halterneck dress

Vintage Fair at Old Spitalfields Market

2012-05-08T08:00:00.000+01:00

On Saturday I took myself off to the vintage fair at Old Spitalfields market. Mostly it's good for a browse, since I'm on spending lockdown, so was unable to indulge in the lovely pretty frocks on sale. Not that it was too hard to resist, since there are very few truly unmissable bargains at these events: Half-decent 50s dresses range from about £45-£150 (most seem to be around the £50-60 mark, though I did see one or two on sale rails for under £30), belying the "affordable" tag. But I spent an enjoyable time wandering the stalls and browsing the amazing vintage homewares.

As I mentioned yesterday, I wore my newly-completed Little Rock Dress (though it remained mostly hidden under my overcoat) with sparkly shoes and a feather half-hat, and I'm pleased to say I got several compliments on my look. I posed for Irene, a photography student; I was filmed talking about my outfit for some Jubilee related vox pop video thing for the Mayor of London's website (hope I don't sound like a complete knob - I don't generally come off well on film!); and I was also photographed with some of my purchases by Homes & Antiques magazine.

This stall was also photographed by Homes & Antiques magazine, so you'll probably see it in the August issue.

Well I say lockdown, but I couldn't resist indulging in a few little bargain bits and pieces - a couple of pairs of gloves (fulfilling a wishlist item of turquoise gloves), a polka dot 50s pillbox hat (another - somewhat random - wishlist item), and a Pyrex dish - I couldn't not buy it, it matches the one I thrifted almost exactly two years ago, but in a slightly smaller size. Vintage Pyrex rocks.

The Little Rock Dress

2012-05-07T08:30:00.000+01:00

Yes, the Little Rock Dress is finished! It's actually been finished a while but a) I hadn't had the chance to wear it and b) the weather's been so horrible for the last week that it's been too dull for photography. The vintage fair at Old Spitalfields market gave me the opportunity to give the dress its debut, and it got several compliments (at least from those who glimpsed it under my overcoat - it was so cold).

I decided to embellish the bodice with a swirl design in sequins, as a nod to the all-over sequinned swirls of the inspiration worn by Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.

I also lined the skirt portion, using the pattern for the outer skirt in reverse. I couldn't find any tutorial on how to deal with the split, so I ended up stitching the seam allowances of the skirt to the lining, which seems to do the trick and looks nice and neat.

The whole outfit is based on the original. Sadly I was unable to find a feathered showgirl headdress, but my 50s feather half-hat makes a respectable substitute. The various rhinestone bling I got from ebay and charity shops, and I gave a further nod to the sequins of the original with my sequin ruby slippers.

Fabric: Wool crepe, £15 per metre (about 2.5 metres).

Pattern: Bodice from McCall 6601 (1946) with self-drafted skirt.

Techniques: Pattern drafting; Lining the skirt portion; Hemming with hem tape; Embellishing with sequins; Shirring and topstitching (don't know if they really count as 'techniques' to me any more, since practically every project of mine involves one or both!).

Verdict: Overall I'm pleased with how this came out, especially since it was my first attempt at actual pattern drafting. The fit in the bodice is a little weird, despite making a muslin - the back is too blousy (I think I was concentrating so much on getting a close fit in the front that I forgot to properly fit the back!). I suppose one day I can take the dress apart and fix that, but it's not a priority.

Dress, made by me! 1950s feather half-hat, From The Attic on etsy; Rhinestone necklace and bracelets (just glimpsed - I had intended to wear them over the sleeves, but they aren't loose enough), ebay; Clip-on earrings, car boot sale (possibly - I can't remember); Brooch, charity shop; Shoes available from my shop.

PS: Yes I am wearing foundation garments!

{Style Inspiration} 1950s Checks

2012-05-06T09:54:00.000+01:00

Heralding in the warmer weather with this week's Sunday Style Inspiration, I thought I'd bring a selection of checked summer fashions from the 1950s.

Woman's Own, July 1952

Sears, 1953

Woman's Own, June 1954

Sears, 1956

A Personal Matter: Underarm Freshness

2012-05-04T15:10:00.001+01:00

One of the things that interests me in my vintage magazines are the adverts. And it's not just the ads for glamorous products like shoes and lingerie and beauty products that catch my attention - I'm also intrigued by the advertising for personal products available through the ages. So I've decided to celebrate these unglamorous ads in a new blog mini series, starting with a brief history of underarm freshness.

Early armpit care consisted of padded "dress shields" designed to protect delicate fabrics from corrosive perspiration - though the 1908 "Beautifit" shields of rubberised cotton sound enormously uncomfortable! Dress shields continued to be popular through the first half of the 20th century and beyond, perhaps used in conjunction with the variety of deodorants and anti-perspirants (some offering up to a week's protection!) which became available. I also think that "Odo-Ro-No" is the best name for a deodorant ever.

1908

1940

1947

1949

1950

1951

1952

1953

1955

The 90s as Vintage: What is "Vintage" Anyway?

2012-05-03T18:36:00.002+01:00

It's been covered before. A lot. But Le Hemmingway has once again brought the discussion to the fore with his recent assertion that the 1990s should be officially considered "vintage". The pronouncement caused a predictable uproar in the vintage community, partly because of a general distaste for the "trendification" of vintage, partly because many of us can't bear terming fashions we wore first time round "vintage" and partly, I suppose, out of a desire to protect what we see as vintage from being watered down by association.

It's easier to define where "vintage" starts than where it ends: the consensus seems to be that around the 1920s is the advent of modern fashion, and thus the beginning of vintage clothing; anything prior to that is antique. But the cut-off point is a contentious issue. It's generally accepted that 1970s fits under the "vintage" umbrella. Even the 1980s has been grudgingly admitted by all but the most stringent. Abritrary figures have been tossed about - 20 years old, 30 years old, 50 years old. There's no meaningful precedent to look to: A vintage car must date from between 1919 and 1930; a wine can be 2009 vintage. So where do you draw the line?

"Anything post-60s is retro, not vintage", I've heard it said. Personally I've always considered "retro" in its original sense of retrospective, as "new with an old look" - for me Heyday! Clothing, Vivien of Holloway and What Katie Did are retro. But that aside, this statement is evidence of a certain "vintage snobbery" that occasionally rears its head. In general I've found the vintage community incredibly accepting, broad-minded and lovely, but I have encountered this vintage snobbery before (thankfully only in passing, not directed at me). The vintage snob turns up her nose at vintage repro brands, or declares offhand that anything after 1950s "isn't vintage". She considers that only designer name vintage is worth owning, and might label you a fraud if your look isn't completely period-accurate.

Personally, I can see a case for categorising any look that can be definitively ascribed to an earlier fashion era as "vintage". If you look at early Friends episodes, or Blossom or The Fresh Prince, it's plain to see that the fashions have a distinct style that's very definitely not "modern". Does this make them de facto vintage? If (as I do) you take out "retro" as a term meaning actually old, then - much as it pains me to say it of fashions I might have worn first time round - perhaps it does. Or maybe it's just second hand.

There will never be a definitive answer. In the meantime, perhaps we should rejoice that the masses are turning their attention to 90s vintage, and leaving the older stuff to us more dedicated followers of vintage fashion; let them call their look "vintage" if it makes them happy. One thing I am sure of is that whether the 90s is admitted into the vintage arena or not, it still won't change my own taste or my leaning towards midcentury styles. One of the ways that I define vintage is the ability to follow your own fashion whim, regardless of whether it's currently in style.

Fabulous Fifties Pulp Fiction

2012-05-01T08:30:00.000+01:00

I just bought a large lot of paperback fiction on ebay. The books date from the early 20th century to the 1950s and all have the most wonderful cover illustrations. They include a small but intriguing selection of 1930s Anglo-Indian fiction which I'm looking forward to reading since my mother's side of the family was based in India at that time. But the most fabulous classic pulp fiction illustrations belong to the late 40s - early 50s detective titles, so I thought I'd share those first.

Aren't they awesome? By the way I'm selling some of these (and more) on ebay.

What I'm working on...

2012-04-30T12:45:00.000+01:00

I've currently got quite a few projects on the go so I thought I'd do a quick round-up - partly by way of explaining my recent bloggy absence.

The Ballroom Belles Dress

Although I've used several of my vintage repro fabrics in record bags, this is my first actual dress project with one (it's on my sewing list as June's project, so I'm actually ahead of schedule for once!). I'm using Hollywood 1552, the same late 30s / early 40s pattern as I used way back in 2010 for my first vintage sewing project, the Big Apple Dress. I've been looking forward to reusing this pattern for various reasons - firstly because despite my huge hash of a sewing effort, the apple dress remains one of my favourite and most flattering dresses. I was also keen to revisit the pattern with the benefit of the sewing knowledge I've accrued since that first effort; I started by redrafting the pattern pieces taking into account the various adjustments (mainly for sizing and fit, but also length) that I made in that version.

The Little Rock Dress

This dress has been quite a learning experience for me, and it's finally nearing completion after over a year in the planning and a couple of weeks of construction. I'm just giving a sneak peek glimpse as I'm looking forward to sharing the finished garment as soon as I finish assembling the appropriate bling. I'm already playing with ideas for my next Gentlemen Prefer Blondes inspired creation - possibly based on the pink "Diamonds Are A Girl's Best Friend" dress.

1940s Sailor dress

April's project on my sewing list will also be based on Hollywood 1552, with a modified bodice and sailor collar I drafted last year. I had originally planned to make it in very fine handkerchief linen to get a good drape, but I couldn't find any. Then it occurred to me that I rayon would give me the perfect texture and drape that I had in mind. But rayon is also surprisingly hard to come by - I ended up buying white and dyeing it (er, twice, due to an unfortunate early 90s style tie-dye effect on my first attempt).

Tuppence Ha'penny @ the London Fashion & Textile Museum shop

A most exciting business venture is my partnership with the Fashion & Textile Museum shop. They're currently running a wonderful exhibition on postwar women textile designers, and approached me about stocking the shop as my recycled record products tie in well with the theme. This is me at the exhibition's opening night, when Zandra Rhodes complimented me on my hair.

Wartime Propaganda Prints

This is basically a total indulgence, a personal research project. I've been interested in WW2 patriotic textiles for some time, so when I came across this book it immediately went on my wishlist. Eventually I went ahead and bought it and I've been relishing every single word and picture in it - it's totally fascinating. Look out for related posts in the not too distant future. I'm even hoping to try my hand at producing my own "propaganda print" inspired by the fabrics and scarf designs of the era.