Turkey Travel Blog

Romantic Nights at The Spelunca

2012-09-16T03:37:00.000-07:00

On my last trip to Goreme in Cappadocia, I took a lot of time deciding which hotel to book. This was the first holiday that my husband and I would take in four years.

Everything had to be prefect and stress free. I had heard about the cave hotels in Cappadocia, however was unsure if I wanted to stay in one. After all, my knowledge of cave hotels was zilch and I stopped watching the Flintstones when I was 13 years old.

Having read Trip Advisor though, a lot of people recommended staying in a cave hotel whenever a visit to Cappadocia happens. So I took the plunge and booked the Spelunca Hotel in Goreme.

It was a good move to make because the Spelunca was everything I wanted it to be. The authenticity of the rooms and the hotel itself, gave emphasis to a romantic atmosphere that instantly made me relax. The hotel was also in a good location and an excellent base from which to explore the area ofCappadocia.

All mod cons were present in the rooms including heated towel rails, LCD TV with satellite channels, tea / coffee maker and the famous Jacuzzi bath. Famous because this was the first time that my husband discovered it is not a good idea to pour hotel bottles of shampoo into a Jacuzzi bath.

Breakfast was the traditional Turkish breakfast however the hotel expanded on their range so you had a wide choice of fruits, cheeses, olives, bread, and jams. You name it, everything was there. While the hotel did not do evening food, they would gladly order you some food in, if you did not want to go out.

Even though it was our holiday, I got into the habit of waking up at 6am every morning. My reason for doing so was the view of dozens of hot air balloons floating across the landscape. Every morning I made a cup of coffee and sat on the terrace watching them. The balloons would come so close and I swear that one morning, I heard someone shouting hello from the balloons.

So there must be something that I didn’t like about the hotel right? Well, their gardens could do with better upkeep and the 5 minute walk up the hill to the Spelunca hotel was enough to get me panting for breath. However apart from that, I actually felt like I wanted to sell up here in Altinkum and move into the hotel permanently.

I don’t think I will be going back to Goreme anytime soon so I won’t be returning to the Spelunca hotel. However I have found that sometimes in life, it is better not to go back to the places that you have fond memories of. The second time never measures up to the first and I want to keep the fond memories that I have of Goreme and The Spelunca Hotel.

Turkish Men – Why Your Holiday Romance Is Doomed

2012-09-15T01:42:00.000-07:00

Turkish Men are once again causing heartache all over the globe. Every year, thousands of foreign women enter Turkey and strike up a holiday romance. For some, the holiday romance does not work out and they move on. Others however can not accept the holiday romance for what it was. They join Turkish Love Rats and make it the focus of their Facebook page. They start free blogs slating off every Turkish man they know and then join numerous amounts of forums to declare to the world that all Turkish men are sleazeballs and should never be trusted.

So when thinking about Turkish men, I type this post in despair. From today, I am sending out a strong message to all women travelers or tourists. Do not get involved in a holiday romance with a Turkish man simply because you can not handle it. I don’t want to read your blog, like your Facebook page or meet you on a forum. Stereotyping the whole male race of a nation simply because of your failed holiday romance is OTT and on the verge of bunny boiling.

The fact is that there are plenty of mixed relationships between Turkish men and foreign women that work perfectly well. I can however tell you the top three reasons why a holiday romance did not work out.

1 – You live in two different countries. Now, it does not take a rocket scientist to work out that when you live in two different countries, the odds are stacked against you. Any man can have an affair even if he lives in the same house as you, so why do you think he is going to be honest when he lives in a different country?

If you are dating one of the many Turkish men who break women’s hearts, then don’t call him the love of your life when you live in two different countries. It is what it is, a holiday romance, even if you return six times a year to see him. If you both want to take the romance further, then one of you has to move countries.

2 – There are two different cultures joining here. Unfortunately most of the relationships that I have seen fail, is because the women wants to keep 100% of her culture and the Turkish man wants to keep 100% of his Turkish culture. For it to work, both of you has to meet in the middle and give something up. Yes, his mother will always come before you, get over it! As for him, he has to accept that you do and always will eat pork.

3 - If you can not spot a sleazeball then your life skills really need tuning up. Remember, that a lot of girls let their hair down on holiday and are somewhat more trusting then they are in their hometowns. Some of the signs that he is a sleazeball are

- He tells you that he loves you when you are older than his mother

- He asks you for money.

- He makes a move on you in the first night.

- He introduces you as a friend

- He hides you from his friends

- He runs away to the toilet when his phone rings

If you want to visit Turkey and fall in love with a Turkish man, then be prepared for a life changing experience. If it works out, then I am happy for you, if it does not work out, then please publish tales of your failed holiday romance with Turkish men somewhere else than the internet.

Setting Off On My South Western Tour

2012-07-03T02:28:00.000-07:00

For most of the summer I have been feverishly working seven days a week in order to top up my traveling fund which I had previously emptied down to the last penny. I can finally say that with much delight, I have saved up enough money for another trip.

Well done me and I am giving myself a pat on the back as it did not take me as long as I thought it would. So tomorrow morning, with my bags packed I am setting off …

So Where Am I Going?

My next destination was to be the Black Sea region however I have delayed this until next year as a friend would like to accompany me on this tour. So instead, I have planned a rough route on theSouth Western coast of Turkey.

Picture Courtesy of Antalya.org

Those with an in-depth knowledge of Turkey will realise that my route is the Lycian Way walking route which is a 509km trek from Antalya to Fethiye. I won’t however, be trekking! I don’t have the stamina, strength or enthusiasm to walk and explore that route.

Instead I will be staying in the towns and villages along the route and using local transport to get from one location to the next. I have made some changes in that I am starting in Kemer and leaving Antalya as a city break for another time. I also plan to extend the route and finish in Dalyan instead of Olu Deniz.

What Are the Things To Do Along This Route?

Once I started planning the trip, I realized that this area is culturally and historically rich and there are so many things to do and places to see. It is much more exciting than the Aegean Coast of Turkey. If I wrote on this blog post everything that I plan to do, then I would still be writing next week, however a few examples are…

Traveling in a cable car up to the top of Mount Tahtali

Picture Courtesy of tahtali.com

Sea kayaking over the sunken city of Kekova

Visit the Church and birth place of St Nicholas who is better known as Santa Claus

Hop across to the Greek island of Meis

I also want to visit Butterfly valley and the ghost town of Kayakoy near Fethiye. Last but not least, I want to end up in Dalyan and sail down the Dalyan River to marvel at the Lycian rock tombs and take a mud bath. The last time I was in Dalyan was ten years ago and I have no pictures while my memories are fading fast.

How Much Time Do I Have?

One month to complete the whole route. If I run out of money, then I will be returning early but hopefully I will be able to budget well.

Who am I Going With?

Well, I am actually traveling solo. Hubby is still working and no friends want to come on a month’s tour of the South Western Coast. The last time I traveled solo was before I got married and in my repping days so this will be a shock to the system.

I am also going to miss hubby tremendously as he is my rock and organizes everything when we travel. I am nervous but the fact is that if I call off the trip because I am traveling solo, I know this trip will never happen. It is just not other people’s idea of a good holiday.

When will I update my blog?

It will be on an “as and when” basis because I have no plan. I don’t know how long I will spend in each destination and what I will be doing from one day to the next. However, I hope that you will be following my posts when I do manage to publish as I am certain this trip will provide some wonderful memories that I would like to share with you.

If you have any tips or suggestions of places to go and things to do, then please leave them for me below.

A Guide to Tasty Turkish Street Food

2012-06-12T02:36:00.000-07:00

For many, a big part of any holiday is the food you eat, the food you remember and the food you would rather forget. In Turkey, street food is a way of life and simply cannot be ignored. Some of your finest meals will be made instantly in front of you so here is a little taste of what to expect from Turkish street food.

Kokorec, spiced offal wrapped in lamb’s intestine is of course, a tasty treat to tie you over until dinner. For anyone wondering about the necessity of the intestine, it has been suggested this is in order to disguise the taste, raising the issue of whether or not the entire dish should be rethought. However, when in Turkey……something that sounds that questionable must be worth a try.

Kahvalti, or ‘before coffee’. Most of us would shudder at the prospect of anything before coffee but this actually means breakfast, and breakfast can be grabbed from the street in the form of a giant bread polo called simit, reminiscent of a bagel really, but tasty all the same. Having one with a strong Turkish coffee, or kiwi tea, is even better.

Kebabs. Arguably you don’t necessarily need to travel hundreds of miles for one, when getting one in your home country is extremely easy. The overwhelming hunger, the actual need for food, the fact that it is accompanied with lettuce is an easy justification for a late night healthy snack. Don’t forget about the ill-advised flirtation with the kebab man and the overwhelming disgust, the following morning at your gluttony.

Turkey welcomes you to a whole new world of the kebab. At any point of the day, more than one if you fancy, the kebab is street food to start you off. The fresh bread, salad, and meat taste is better than ever and the friendly banter with your street chef will keep you coming back day after day.

Gozleme. Essentially a pancake. Cooked fresh on the street with endless options of fillings they are irresistible and should come with a warning that you will reach new levels of gluttony after your first. Be aware though that many people return from holidays to Turkey a few pounds heavier after eating too many of these!

If this doesn’t fill you up there is plenty of fresh food and fiery flavours on offer so do not leave Turkey without trying some form of street food. Turkey holidays come in all shapes and sizes, whether you are relaxing by the beach in Marmaris or soaking up the culture in Ankara, but if you are feeling peckish do not be afraid to sample the street food that Turkey is so famous for.

Goreme Open Air Museum – Did The Guidebook Lie?

2012-05-23T03:51:00.001-07:00

I am a realistic person. I don’t expect everything to be perfect or suitable to my tastes. It was the second day of my holiday in Goreme, Cappadocia and everything felt right. The food was delicious, hotel was clean and the people were friendly. That is when I started getting, warning bells.

You see, there is always something about your holiday that you hate. It might be the loud person in the hotel room next to you or the flight that was delayed for six hours. I was waiting for whatever it was that would push my buttons and it came to me in the form of The Goreme Open Air museum. The simplest way to describe it to you is as follows.
Cave Churches – The Guidebook Definition

Goreme open air museum is a place where history comes alive. Visit the ten beautiful and historically important cave churches that are the most fantastic sight to see in Cappadocia. Goreme Open Air Museum is a member of UNESCO World Heritage List and is admired by thousands of visitors from all around the world. One of the most photographed destinations in Cappadocia.
My Definition

Goreme Open air museum is 13 cave churches that all look the same. Throw in the Cappadocia tour guide that screams at you, the overpriced entrance fee, the vile coffee, the mile long toilet queue, seven coaches of selfish tourists and it will certainly be a day that you will remember for the rest of your life.

Did the guidebook lie to me or was it the snowball effect in action?

When I look back on the day, I suppose I could contribute my lack of enthusiasm towards the snow ball effect. If you have not heard about the snowball effect, it is when a succession of things go wrong one after the other. The result is that you blow your top and head for the nearest bar to drown your sorrows. So, my snowball effect experience went as follows.

1 - Having read the Cappadocia guidebook, I spent ages trying to persuade my husband to visit the “must see” Goreme Open Air Museum. The problem is, he is not really into sightseeing or cave churches If there had been nightclubs in Goreme, then I am quite sure that all our spending money would have gone into buying shares of their business. Half an hour later, I had managed to drag him up the steep hill to the entrance of the Goreme Open Air museum. (When I say steep, I mean very steep)

2 - On discovering that the entrance fee was 15tl for each person, I then had to listen to my husband moaning about how he would be a rich man if he had not married me. That is the other thing about my husband, he doesn’t like paying for things that he does not want to do. Well to be fair, who does? So a total cost of 30tl ($20) to enter and ten minutes of repetitive moaning about his bank balance.

3 -I put this behind me and entered the first cave church. I was admiring the antique paintings and a tour guide walked in with his small group. From experience, I have learned that most tour guides in Turkey suffer from the god complex i.e., the whole tourism industry is going to collapse without them. So I always make a point of ignoring them and leaving them to their group. I got the camera out of my bag and started taking photos.

This prompted the tour guide to practice his god complex on me. “No photos, no photos” he repeated in a panic. It turned out that you were not allowed to take photos inside the cave because the flash on cameras was ruining the ancient paintings on the walls. Well, if they made this known on signs, then I would have obeyed it. I sneaked out of the cave with my head bowed in shame and amongst a sound of repeated tuting and rude looks from his loyal group that was following him.

4 - So I soon realized that when you have seen the first cave church, you must as well go to the exit of the open air museum because all the cave churches look the same. I decided instead, to make the most of it and practice my new found hobby of photography. This is the other thing you must know about Goreme Open air museum. If you want family photos, know that every Tom, Dick and Harry will appear in them as well.

If someone was taking photos, I stopped and waited instead of walking in front of the camera. When it turned out that I was the only one with this philosophy, I decided that if you cannot beat them, join them. My face will appear in random stranger’s photo albums across the globe.

5 - Did I mention that the guide at the entrance also said that in the height of season they receive up to 2000 visitors a day? Bear this in mind, when I tell you that there is only one toilet! 35 minutes later, when I was seriously considering peeing into an empty water bottle, I managed to make it into the one and only cubicle, which at that point seemed like paradise even though it had run out of toilet paper.

6 - I returned to my husband who was waiting outside for me with a cold cup of vile coffee and a smug look on his face that said “I told you so…” Just to get back at him, I made him buy me a book on Goreme Open Air museum that I didn’t really want and to this day have still not read.

So, I don’t know whether the guide book lied to me or it was the snowball effect that left me with a poor impression of the Goreme Open Air museum. However I am glad I went because I can at least say that I have been there and done it.

Walking The Ihlara Valley

2012-05-23T03:49:00.000-07:00

Ihlara valley in Cappadocia is a place that you will either love or hate. It is a 14Km hike through a gorge that was formed thousands of years ago when there was an earthquake and volcano eruptions one after the other.

If you don’t want to complete a full 14km trek, there are four entrances and exits situated at various points. Just completing 4km of the Ihlara Valley trek will amaze you and remind you about the power of Mother Nature. The entrance that I walked down was 365 steps but there are other entrances where you can drive straight down to the gorge.

Along the trek are four ancient Christian churches that were made hundreds of years ago when people carved into the rock and made caves their homes and places of worship. You can see still paintings on the rock face that were made all those years ago.

Pack plenty of water bottles to drink along the way because even though there is a tea garden and restaurants along the trek, you will definitely build up a thirst. The food at the restaurant was good if your taste buds had previously lost the will to live, otherwise I would take a packed lunch if walking makes you build up an appetite.

I went to the Ihlara valley as part of a day tour that I had booked. We spent about three hours there and that included having lunch. If you are the type of person who loves walking and sightseeing then I would suggest skipping the tours and coming here independently so that you can spend a full day taking in the surroundings at your own pace. We were with a group of eight other people and I felt the walk through the gorge was too quick.

We only completed 4km but in this time, I would have liked to stop and take in the beauty of the Ihlara Valley. I also would have liked to visit the small village of Ihlara nearby, and take in the ambience of how Turkey really is. Readers that know me, will also know that I live in Altinkum which is a Turkish town geared up for tourists. It has lost its authenticity where as one look at Ihlara will tell you that they have been totally unaffected by the thousands of tourist that visit there every year.

This walk is definitely getting in touch with nature in its prime and even if you only complete 4km of the trek, I strongly recommend you put it at the top of your list of things to do when in Cappadocia.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks. Quote by John Muir

Derinkuyu.The Ancient Underground City

2012-05-23T03:47:00.000-07:00

The ancient underground city of Derinkuyu is proof of what man can achieve when his life is threatened. It is a complex network of tunnels and rooms that formed a city 100 meters under the ground.

Hundreds of years ago, when the area was attacked, citizens used to flood to the underground city and stay until it was safe to re-enter the land of the living.

Warning

The ancient Derinkuyu underground city is not a place to visit if you suffer from claustrophobia, high blood pressure, a dickey heart or panic attacks. Walking down the flight of stairs in the Derinkuyu City sometimes becomes so cramped that you begin to lower your head and feel suffocated by the lack of space.

There is a mass of tunnels and rooms and the only way to find your way is by following the arrows put there by the association that manages the city. Red means you are going further into the city, blue means you are going out and back up to the surface. When visiting Cappadocia, I entered the Derinkuyu caves and explored eight levels of this man made city which makes me give credit where it is due.

The Derinkuyu underground city is impressive and shows man’s commitment to self-preservation and what he can achieve when everything he has ever known is threatened. ( Note, there is eleven levels to the city but not all of them are open to the public).

The city was big and complex but there was a general layout to it. Animals were crowded into the top level of the city; the kitchens were placed on the next level, domestic living rooms on the next level after that and so forth. The citizens that built the Derinkuyu underground city thought of everything. This city was not intended for permanent living however it could be months that they stayed in there until it was safe to go back up.

So they had a plan for everything

* Sometimes people would go crazy. Days without sun and fresh air can affect a man’s mind. If people went crazy, there were stone slots that they were tied to with a piece of rope. This would prevent them from trying to escape to the surface or attacking other people.

* If anyone tried to sneak out of the underground city, they would be crucified and their bodies were all put in one room to prevent disease. This was done as a deterrent because if anyone got caught on the surface, it is possible they would give away the secret of hundreds of people living under the ground.

* Stone wheels were rolled across entrance ways to form doors and they could only be opened from the inside.

* There was fresh well that provided water to certain levels and air ducts ensured a fresh supply of oxygen.

* Weekly prayer took place in the church. A storage room would hold the supply of wheat and grain while a winery would produce alcohol so everyone could get drunk and forget where they were living.

I have to say, that when I come out into fresh air, I was very glad. I felt suffocated just spending an hour in there; can you imagine how people felt in the past when they had to spend months in there?

Be prepared for a rush of touts selling items when you leave the underground city, apart from that it is a fantastic place to visit and makes you feel very humble indeed. If underground cities are your thing, then make your holiday a long one as there are 36 of them to see in Cappadocia.

Urgup In Cappadocia

2012-05-23T03:45:00.000-07:00

When I was searching for accommodation in Cappadocia, the choice was between Urgupand Goreme. I finally settled on the latter but still had to go to Urgup for the day to see why my good friend Brenda Farrell loved it so much and recommended it for accommodation.

What is the difference?

Both of them have their own unique vibes but within half an hour I had spotted the unique character of Urgup and why it attracts a different type of traveler. Goreme is more for backpackers, youngsters and those on a budget. The restaurants are cheaper and bars have western names such as The Flintstones Café and Fatboys.

Urgup is a bit more upmarket. In the town square are cafes that remind you of a Mediterranean afternoon. People sit for hours drinking cappuccinos and gossiping with their friends while life goes on around them. The shops in Urgup are a brand name with an organized disciplined look.

Viewpoint

I spent the afternoon wondering around Urgup and went up to the viewpoint at the top of the highest hill. This gives you a full 180 degree view over the town. There is a café at the top and if you are nostalgic, they have photos of Urgup going back over 70 years.

Eating Out

I also had my evening dinner in the town and want to recommend the best restaurant in Cappadocia. I ate out every evening while I was in Cappadocia but the meal served by The Han Ciragan Restaurant in Urgup was the best.

It was not cheap however the price was reflected in the taste and atmosphere of the restaurant. If you are traveling on a budget, get fed up of eating cheap kebabs and want to blow your money, then that is the restaurant to head to.

I was left with a good lasting impression of Urgup. It is a place to consider if you are looking for accommodation in Cappadocia. I wouldn’t say it was better than Goreme as each of them have their own special character and vibes.

Readers – If you are going to Cappadocia for a holiday, check out my other posts below on what to see and where to go.

Sunday Snap. The Pottery Tree

2012-05-23T03:44:00.000-07:00

When you are in the Cappadocia region, one thing you will see a lot of is pottery. In specific, red clay pottery which comes from the town of Avanos.

I took this picture walking up to the Goreme Open hill museum. As it was such a steep climb, I was tempted to get in a car and drive up there but I am now glad I didn’t.

On the walk up to the museum is so many sights to see that you would miss if driving up the hill. There is the horse safari ranch, the camels, the traditional tea shop, the cave restaurant and of course this pottery tree.

If ever there was an argument for using your own two feet then this is it. The Goreme Open air museum is located a 30 minute walk from the center of Goreme (it is not far but I am taking into account that it is up a steep hill).

If you are staying in the towns of Uchisar or Urgup, then I strongly recommend going by bus and getting off in Goreme. That way, you can take in the important sights that you would otherwise miss if going by car.

Avanos. The Wild West Town

2012-05-23T03:41:00.000-07:00

Avanos is a small town in the Cappadocia region. It reminds me of the Wild West films that show deserted streets while playing an eerie whistling tune?

You look up the street and then down the street.

You complete a full 360 degree turn and the only thing to be spotted is a stray dog searching through the bins for scrap food.

That is the perfect way to describe Avanos. It is a ghost town that seems to have been forgotten and left off the map.

I went to have a good look around Avanos but I especially wanted to see the red clay pottery that the town is famous for. Avanos is roughly a 15 minute drive from Goreme and it is part of Cappadocia. You may see some websites advertising accommodation in Avanos however my recommendation is not to stay there unless you are using it as an overnight base while on your travels to another destination.

Shopping

If you are a shopping fanatic, than Avanos is not for you. I had to wonder how half the shops in Avanos made any money as they were old, empty and shop owners were quite content to watch the world go by instead of making any money. Head to other places in Cappadocia like Nevsehir if you want to shop

Pottery

We found a traditional Turkish restaurant, settled down for a bite to eat and then went exploring the area. Avanos does have another credit to its name, in that it has the longest river in Turkey flowing through it but I was more interested in seeing the pottery factories that I had been told about.

One shop owner obviously had the gift of the gab unlike the rest of the town, and I found myself going into his shop for a pottery demonstration instead of heading to the main factories. Cue my Demi Moore impression and my pathetic attempt at making a bowl.

What else is there to do while in Avanos? Well I saw some carpet shops and a small unimpressive winery. Apart from that, don’t expect any overwhelming feelings of love for the place. There are better places in Cappadocia. I really did feel like the stranger that had strolled into town and was being eyed with suspicion by everyone. After a couple of hours in Avanos, I got back in the car and slowly left the town without as much as a backwards glance.

Readers – If you are headed to Cappadocia, don’t forget to see my other posts below on what to do and where to go

Nevsehir. To the Castle and Back Again

2012-05-23T03:40:00.000-07:00

One town that I wanted to see while in Cappadocia was Nevsehir. It is the major hub for all the surrounding villages and seems to be the centre of everything. We jumped in the car, set off and within the hour arrived in a bustling city.

One thing we did not do before setting off though, was to find out exactly what there was to do. We did not think this would be a problem as surely there would be signs and we can speak to the locals.

Within twenty minutes of driving around the town, we came to the conclusion that the town had nothing to offer apart from shops and parks. We were proved wrong though, when we spotted a sign saying Nevsehir castle.

The Castle

Do not attempt to walk the steep hill leading up to Nevsehir castle. We were in the car and at times I feared we would go rolling back down the hill thanks to the steepness. For Bulent, who was driving, it was not a problem however I dread to think of what would have happened if I had been driving.

Once you reach the castle, the view is gorgeous. It was a complete 360 degree view over Nevsehir. There are no artefacts or guides at the castle. For that you will have to go to Nevsehir museum in the town which is impressive. There are two floors of artefacts from the area of Nevsehir dating back hundreds of years.

Once we had been round the museum, we spoke to the guard and asked what else there was to do. There is nothing else in Nevsehir apart from the castle, museum and shopping so my advice is not to book a hotel here.

Book your hotel in other areas of Cappadocia such as Urgup or Goreme and you will find yourself in close distance to all the sights to see.

For the day however, I thoroughly recommend a visit. Even if you don’t do castles, there are plenty of brand name shops to keep you busy. Regular buses run from all the regions of the Cappadocia area.

Readers Question : Not many people visit Nevsehir while they are in the Cappadocia region. Have you been? If so, what did you think?

Are you going on holiday to Cappadocia? If so, read my other posts listed below on what to do and where to go.

The Flawless Ruins of Ancient Myra

2012-05-22T10:46:00.000-07:00

My eagerness to visit the historical ruins of Myra came about because in its prime, it was one of the most important cities of the ancient Lycian league.

Known as the first democratic union in history, the Lycian league can also take credit for influencing the United States constitution

The league left their footprint in history through ancient ruined cities all over the south west coast of Turkey and I was determined to visit as many of them as possible. This proved to be more difficult then I originally thought as while on my tour I discovered there is more historical attractions in this area of Turkey, than the whole of Greece put together!

I was not expecting a lot from Myra (now named Demre). After you have seen the ancient ruins of Ephesus, it takes a lot for anything to match up. However I was pleasantly surprised even though Myra is maybe one fifth of the size of Ephesus. This is probably due to the fact that Ephesusdisplays predominately Roman architecture and influence, while Myra still has traces of its Lycian heritage.

The result is completely different ambience, vibes and a unique experience

The main attractions at Myra are the large theatre which used to sit 13000 and the necropolis Lycian rock tombs. Even though you are not allowed to walk around the rock tombs, you can still get a feel for the ancient Lycian culture and their beliefs.

Lycian tombs were always placed at the top of hills or on the cliffs as there was a belief that the dead would be transported to another world by a wing liked creature.

When they were first discovered by a foreign explorer, the tombs were painted in bright red, green and yellow colors however very little of those bright colors are obvious today.

How to Get to Myra

To get to Myra, I jumped on the bus from Kas and got off in the town of Demre. From there, I saw a sign that said Myra was a 3km walk. Now, I know 3km and I also know the Turkish version!

In the heat of the midday sun and my bad sense of direction, I did not want to chance it. I could not find the local bus headed in that direction but managed to barter a taxi driver for a return journey for 20 Turkish liras. The ruins are open from 9am to 7pm every day and are just 10 Turkish liras to enter.

Even if visiting ancient ruins is not your passion in life, I would definitely recommend putting Myra on your list if you are passing through the area. It only takes an hour if you are looking for a quick visit; otherwise combine the ruins with a trip to the home of Santa Claus, otherwise known as St Nicholas Church.

Paragliding in Turkey : Thrilling Experience or Safety Hazard?

2012-05-22T10:44:00.000-07:00

Veske is a confident man with an addictive passion for paragliding. He does not just do it at the weekends or when he has opportunity to go on holiday. No, he is a professional paragliding pilot who runs off the side of a mountain every day of his working week.

Veske first jumped out of an airplane with a parachute when he was 16 years old, later he worked as a paragliding instructor for the Turkish military. Talking to him 23 years later, it is obvious that he still has the passion and spirit of adventure that first sent him on this course in life.

You may assume that he is an adrenaline junkie with a death wish

Quite the contrary, as a professional paragliding pilot he has completed over 6,000 flights as well as 1,350 skydiving jumps which shows he is serious about what he does for a living.

So why did I start this article by introducing readers to Veske?

Well, you can normally guarantee that every year, there is a story in the newspapers about holiday makers who unfortunately end up having an accident while paragliding in Turkey.

Hurriyet News- 2011 – Experts raise concerns over paragliding accidents in Turkey

Daily Mail – 2010 – Pensioner clings to cliff ledge for 14 hours after paragliding accident

Fethiye Times – Paragliding Pilot faces court action after client falls 700 metres to his death

Some people have died, others have suffered injuries. Some companies have tarnished their public reputations while their workers face investigation by the Turkish authorities for murder or manslaughter.

I wanted to speak to a professional pilot to find out whether paragliding in Turkey is a sport that people can do on their holidays without any fears about safety. I also wanted to look behind the scenes at what the job of a paragliding pilot entails.

The expert that I found with a perfect safety record was Veske and he was quite happy to show me everything I wanted to know about paragliding in Turkey.

Veske - Professional Paragliding Pilot

When it comes to paragliding in Turkey, most people think first of the resort of Olu Deniz. However, for the interview, I headed to the coastal resort of Kas where Veske works every day forBougainville Travel, which are at the forefront of the trend for adventure sport activities in Turkey.

Considering the fact that Veske spends every day jumping off the side of a mountain, I expected him to be hyper; however, he was calm and relaxed as we sat down for coffee and question time.

Paragliding in Turkey Interview

Me : Hi Veske. Thanks for agreeing to the interview. Paragliding is quite a dangerous sport. How can people ensure that they are safe when they go up in the air for the first time?

Veske : Well actually, paragliding is one of the safest sports in the world. The only thing that can go wrong is human error. Every time my staff or I set off into the air for a tandem ride with customers, we know exactly what the predicted weather and wind speeds for that day will be.

We know the environment and layout of the land like the back of our hands. We have already triple checked all the equipment and briefed the customers on what to do. Once the customers are kitted up in the safety gear, we complete the last check.

Between the three professional paragliding pilots who work for Bougainville Travel, we have over 43 years combined experience of paragliding so our confidence and expert knowledge helps to calm down nervous customers. There are simple rules and if you obey them every single time, nothing can go wrong.

Preparing The Chute

Me: So considering the accidents of paragliding in Turkey in recent years of which some have resulted in deaths, do you think it is the fault of the companies running the paragliding tours?

Veske : I cannot say whether it was the fault of the companies or not as I do not know the specifics of each incident. We do have to remember as well, the ratio of accidents to the number of successful flights that take place every year in Turkey. This ratio is very small.

Generally though, inexperienced pilots or those who have become complacent are often the cause of accidents in paragliding, anywhere in the world. It is not enough just be licensed. Safety checks and rules must be obeyed at all times and then the flying experience will end up a brilliant one.

If a holiday maker wants to paraglide in Turkey, the best question they can ask their pilot is how many hours of paragliding they have done and are they familiar with the layout of the land.

All in a days work

Me: Have you ever had to turn away holiday makers who wanted to tandem paraglide with you?

Veske : Yes, as a professional paragliding pilot, I pay great attention to the mindset of people before they take off. Nerves can be controlled and after setting off, anyone who is nervous will often be calm as they experience the thrill.

Panic is a different matter, if we feel that the person will panic in midair, then I will not fly with them. We have also had some people who have been intoxicated, are missing a limb or appeared to suffer a form of mental illness, in which case, this would put too much responsibility on the pilot.

Me: Be honest and tell me if there is anything about being a professional paragliding pilot that you do not like.

Veske : A lot of the time, experienced solo pilots will come to Kas and ask me for directions of the takeoff and landing points. The only landing point in Kas is the harbour upon which the paragliders of Bougainville travel are very experienced at landing.

Unfortunately, solo pilots with no knowledge of the area, often end up getting it wrong. I would like the local council to build a designated area of landing for paragliders who are not local and then there is less chance of the independent paragliders suffering accidents.

The interview with Veske taught me a lot about paragliding in Turkey; however, the prize of the day was to actually watch him in action.

Veske did offer to Tandem paraglide with me but my fear of heights stopped me from saying yes! Instead I jumped in the company van with customers and we drove 20 minutes up winding mountain roads until we reached the takeoff point.

I watched eagerly behind the lens of my camera as the customers were fitted out with their safety gear and given safety briefings. Veske was still relaxed and confident leading to a calming effect on the customers who at this point were looking rather nervous.

Safety Instructions

One by one, I watched as Veske waited for the right wind speed and then upon his signal, instructed the tandem pilot and customer to start running. A helper pulled them towards the edge to assist the chute in filling up with air.

Running Towards the Edge of the Mountain

They then soared into the sky and out of sight behind the mountain.

Lift-Off!

I was desperate to get back down to the harbor to watch them land and to speak to the customers of their experience. I made it just as the last person was landing. He had unfortunately thrown up upon landing but the other two customers were full of high spirits and a confident sense of achievement. I asked them if they would do it again and the answer was definitely!

Olu Deniz – Forgiving the None Traditional Vibes

2012-05-22T10:37:00.000-07:00

One of my favourite destinations on my solo tour was Olu Deniz. Located on the south western coast of Turkey, it is a popular holiday destination for many Brits. Flights to Dalaman Airport are frequent during the summer months and the transfer time is roughly just an hour.

Now, I am not going to give you the spiel that Olu Deniz is the perfect introduction to Turkey, because it is not.

It is far from being a typical Turkish town. It is built around tourism and geared up to serve the needs of demanding holiday makers.

Those who are seeking a holiday full of Turkish culture and traditions will have to explore further afield however, Olu Deniz cannot simply be written off just like that.

Olu Deniz Main Street

You have to look further than the restaurants selling English breakfasts and the shops who have stolen the names of well-known western brands. Unlike other resorts such as Altinkum, these disappointing aspects are not the main focus of the resort.

The main focus of Olu Deniz is its amazing natural beauty. The famous blue lagoon, a long sandy beach, magnificent green mountains backing the resort and just around the coastline is Butterfly valley.

Boat Trips in Olu Deniz

The Blue Lagoon and Beaches

The semi-circle stretch of beach known as the Blue lagoon has appeared in numerous travel publications all over the world. It is what Olu Deniz is known for. I have to admit that when I arrived there, I was disappointed as the sharp blue waters that have appeared in numerous photos now appear to have been photo edited.

Blue Lagoon Olu Deniz

The water of the Blue Lagoon was muddy in some parts while a pale green in others. This still does not distract from the fact that it is a great area to spend the day in. I give a word of warning in that it can get crowded. I visited at the end of season and was very surprised to find no space in some areas. Due to the fact that the blue lagoon was crowded, I found myself further on the beach, which was just as perfect.

Olu Deniz Beach

A Visit to Butterfly Valley

I have already written extensively about my visit to Butterfly valley here and cannot stress strongly enough, that if you are in Olu Deniz to visit it. You don’t need to jump on the daily tour boats, instead catch the local water taxi. Butterfly Valley is quite simply, another world in terms of being rustic, natural and far from the characteristics of mass tourism.

Butterfly Valley

But Olu Deniz is not Traditional Turkey

Ok, Olu Deniz is not traditional Turkey. The whole town is geared up for foreigners on holiday however surely we can forgive that on the account that Olu Deniz is beautiful. It does have a vibe around it of relaxing, stress free days. It does have a certain character that makes you fall instantly in love with it.

I felt comfortable exploring the resort on my own and there was certainly a lot to keep me busy so I ended up staying there for a week. Public transport to the surrounding resorts of Hisaronu and Fethiye is cheap and frequent, however in my opinion they cannot beat Olu Deniz. There are also plenty of excursions to do that will take you to interesting places such as Uzumlu and Saklikent Gorge.

Saklikent Gorge

Take into account everything that I have stated above and it is easy to understand why many people have made Olu Deniz a destination that they return to year after year. While I am the first to shout about experiencing a traditional Turkish holiday, I give Olu Deniz thumbs up if you are looking for an ideal holiday location in Turkey.

The Ghost Village Of Kayakoy

2012-05-22T10:33:00.000-07:00

Kayakoy ghost village lies a short distance from the bustling and popular resorts of Fethiye and Olu Deniz. It is deserted, it is lifeless, the houses are crumbling and the streets are empty.

However, there is an aura and an overwhelming presence that hovers over the village. Some visitors might not sense it, but I did and it washed over me in waves.I truly believe that because I researched the history before going, I was able to appreciate my visit even more.

I was able to imagine the tragedy that caused the citizens to turn on their friends, abandon their homes, their dreams and everything they knew.

Kayakoy might be a ghost village but imagination and research certainly makes it come alive.

Turn of the 19th century – The Village with Two Names

At the beginning of the 19th century, Kayakoy was in full flow. Schools, churches, shops and business operated in harmony. Life was good. The village was thriving as a community.

The twist and most important part of its history lie in the fact that within the village, Greeks and Turks lived side-by-side. The Greeks called the village Levissi while the Turks called it Kayakoy.

Outside their religions and schooling, the Greeks and Turks integrated with each other, sharing the same common goal and that was to get through life one day at a time.

Birds without Wings

Understanding the past and daily life of this ghost village is important. One man put it into better words than I ever could. I strongly advise reading a book called “Birds Without wings” by Louis de Bernières, the same man who wrote Captain Corelli’s Mandolin.

Now, Louis has never said that the location of the book is Kayakoy however; I want to quote him in an interview by the Guardian newspaper.

‘I went to south-west Turkey and there’s a ghost town there. It used to be a mixed community, as described in the book more or less, and they obviously had a wonderful way of life, quite sophisticated. An earthquake finally destroyed the town in the Fifties, but it really started to die when the Christian population was deported. It was walking around that very special place that gave me the idea .The town, called Eskibahce in the book, will be recognizable to those who know Turkey, ‘but I’m not going to go round telling people’.

The Turkish-Greek Population Exchange

The loss of the First World War, the end of the Ottoman Empire and the attempted Greek occupation of the Anatolian region, all combined to force the decline of Kayakoy. Greek Christian citizens were forced to go to Fethiye harbour for deportation and Muslim Turks were expelled from Greece.

Most of the returning Turks did not want to settle in Kayakoy. Of the ones that were already there, well they left when the earthquake hit. The point is though, a combination of historical events forced people to leave their friends, neighbours, homes and uproot their children. Whole lives changed forever when the signing of the treaty for the Turkish Greek Population exchange, took place.

Present Day

Nowadays, the ghost village is one of the biggest tourist attractions for Fethiye and the surrounding resorts. A few locals sell food and souvenirs to passing tourists and there are some occupied houses away from the main bunch of deserted properties on the hill.

With an effort to move on from the past, UNESCO named Kayakoy a world friendship and peace village. Walking around the village is interesting but you will appreciate it more, if you research the history beforehand.

Tours and Getting There

There are many tours operating from Olu Deniz and Fethiye but everyone I know, who went on them complained of a lack of time and lack of historical knowledge by the guide. Instead, there are regular local buses from Fethiye that will get you there in ten minutes.

Delving into the history of Kayakoy and then walking around the deserted village was one of the best highlights of my southwest coast trip. To be able to stand there and imagine life for the Greek and Turks who lived side-by-side, it does make you realize that religion does not have to play a part in friendships.

Unfortunately, the citizens of Kayakoy were pawns in a big game fought by the higher authorities. War tore their village apart and the same mistake is still repeated today in many other countries and villages all over the world.

Readers Question : Have you been to Kayakoy? Did you enjoy it as much as I did?

The Colourful Greek Island of Meis

2012-05-22T10:28:00.000-07:00

The Greek island of Meis is colourful, quiet and full of bizarre locals. The one reason why I went there was simply because I was not forced into doing it.

You see, when I first came to Turkey, visa runs across to any Greek island were a necessity. Many expats did it and still do it now. At first, it was a novelty, but after a while, it became boring and I constantly thought about better things that I wanted to do with my time.

Eventually I ended up on a residency visa and then on Turkish citizenship so there was no need to worry about visas anymore. This was when the idea of day hoping across to a Greek island did not seem like a chore.

It is strange that when you do not have to do something, it becomes more attractive.

My previous hatred of compulsory visa runs has disappeared and now I want to see all the Greek islands that have ferry access from Turkey.

While I was in Kas on my solo tour, I could see the island of Meis from my hotel rooftop, as it is only two miles away. I decided there was no time like the present so I booked myself a return ticket. Theferry departs from the harbour at 10am and it is a quick trip across the water.

Arriving in Meis on the ferry, it was blaring obvious that the island is awash in colour.

Stupid people who have no concept of health and safety paint houses in bright colours.

Boat owners always opt for bright green, blue and red colours, which makes the harbour your typical Mediterranean picture postcard scene.

I decided the best way to get to know the island was to speak to the locals. They turned out to be a tourism board’s worst nightmare.

“Meis is good if you like drinking, eating, sleeping and doing nothing else,” said the bank teller who was very angry about his compulsory transfer from Rhodes. “After just a couple of days, you can become very bored”

“Yes, there is a castle but it is not worth seeing,” said the boat captain who was obviously getting ready for his afternoon siesta.

In total, there are about 350 people living permanently on the island but it will swell up in the summer time to around 1000.

So be warned that the island is not for everyone and think twice if you plan on an overnight stay.

My Recommendations

I spent a lot of time exploring side streets and sitting in cafes eating waffles and drinking frappes. My favourite moment though was the Blue cave. I wrote about this previously and cannot recommend it enough.

While it is 25 metres high, the entrance is only a metre but once you sail into it, the light reflecting off the water is amazing. If you want to go to the cave, when you come off the ferry, ask for Kostos.

He is terrible at steering boats and has no life jackets but he speaks very good English.

At the end of the day, I was actually glad to leave the Greek island of Meis. It is colourful and the locals are friendly, even though they have bizarre ways. It is just that the laidback pace is too much for me. I need some vibes and excitement. Maybe when I retire, I will return

Would I recommend it for an overnight stay? No.

Would I recommend it for a day trip? Yes, if you visit the Blue Cave

Ps – Do not forget to order a plate of delicious fresh calamari from the harbour restaurants.

Romantic Nights at The Spelunca

2012-05-22T10:21:00.000-07:00

On my last trip to Goreme in Cappadocia, I took a lot of time deciding which hotel to book. This was the first holiday that my husband and I would take in four years.

Having read Trip Advisor though, a lot of people recommended staying in a cave hotel whenever a visit to Cappadocia happens. So I took the plunge and booked the Spelunca Hotel in Goreme.

8 Beautiful Pictures of Cappadocia

2012-05-22T10:19:00.000-07:00

Lately I have been breaking off from my Cappadocia posts to write about other thoughts and my recent Bodrum trip. However last night, I started looking through photos so I can put together my last posts on the amazing region of Cappadocia.

Cappadocia had such an profound impact on me and visiting the area kicked off an interest in photography. I started snapping everything in sight from street cats to mosques to sunsets. Since then I have also been frantically signing up to every Facebook page that will give me further tips on photography.

To anyone that is visiting Cappadocia, I strongly recommend that you take your camera as you will see sights that are not available anywhere else in Turkey. Just think of the area as a photographer’s paradise.

While I still have quite a way to go before I am able to match photos from a lot of other bloggers, I still want to take part in sharing my photos. So below you will find my twenty favorite photos of Cappadocia. I hope you like.

I am also determined to carry on practising and improving my skills. If you can recommend any good resources for taking photos, then I would appreciate if you can list them below. Facebook pages, blogs, websites or books.

Haci Bektas - Centre of the Alevi People Of Turkey

Taken at Panoramic View Point In Goreme

On the Walk Up To Goreme Open Air Museum

Goreme Open Air Museum

Taken from Panoramic View Point in Goreme

Uchisar - A Neighbouring Village Near Goreme

Cappadocia Hot air balloons

Kadikalesi and Gumusluk

2012-05-22T08:27:00.000-07:00

On the third day of our Bodrum road trip, we set off to drive from Turgutreis to Yalikavak. The route we took was via the coastal roads and this way we could stop off at any place that caught our attention. While Gumusluk was already on our itinerary, we had only heard of Kadikalesi the night before when chatting to a couple in a restaurant. (Turkey is like that, you find yourself chatting to everyone and anyone that wants to converse.)

It was not hard to find Kadikalesi or Gumusluk and within minutes of being in the area, you could tell that the man-made, money-making machine of Tourism in Turkey had completely passed them by. I have since checked some of the major tour operator’s websites and these two places are hardly mentioned.

If you are a holiday maker that wants your English breakfast and to be entertained on karaoke machines at night time, these places are definitely not for you. Stick to the center of Bodrum or Gumbet where you will probably find tourists are treated better than the locals. However if you are looking to discover a coastal resort of Turkey that does not have two faces, then head to these two resorts.

If you are wondering what I mean by two faces, it refers to a saying of mine. In many touristic coastal resorts of Turkey, there are two faces. The first is the tourist face. Life is idyllic and you wonder why everyone is not living there because it really does sound like paradise. Politics, religion and money are never discussed and no one has even heard of Prozac, let alone considered taking it.

Then there is the true way of life which you get to discover when spending a lot of time in a place. You learn that it is just like every other town or city on earth and locals have their worries while councils fret about being voted out at the next election. Neighbors argue with each other and children swear their parents are old fashioned and just don’t understand them at all.

While in Gumusluk and Kadikalesi, you will see instantly that these resorts are not part of a façade that makes Turkey out to be a one way ticket to paradise. At this time of year you will not win a game of spot the local, in fact we attracted more attention from cats and dogs, posing for a photograph than we did from any human being. However I have heard in summer time it does attract a few Turks.

The point is however, Kadikalesi and Gumusluk are the perfect prescription for anyone needing to recharge their batteries, gain inspiration or simply wishing to take a step back from life to assess their role and place in the big wide world. The two resorts have been forgotten by the “churn you in” and “churn you out” conveyor belts of the tourist companies and in my opinion that is not so much of a bad thing.

How To get There.

The two resorts are between Turgutreis and Yalikavak and you can get a small bus from either resort which will take you there within twenty minutes. If driving by car, just follow the coastal roads and signs will appear. You may struggle to find a choice of accommodation however both resorts can be explored in a day, and accommodation is plenty in the neighboring resorts of Turgutreis orYalikavak.

Adventure Rope Climbing In Kemer

2012-05-22T08:23:00.001-07:00

On my first day in Kemer, I was feeling brave and confident enough to attempt Adventure Rope Climbing. The website described the Adventure Park as …

“A place to prove your courage and skills. This adventure will bring about a rush of adrenaline which will result in a sense of achievement”

The Adventure Rope Park covers 15, 000 square meters and consists of numerous rope ladders, bridges and zip line courses. Once I saw the park with my own eyes, it dawned on me that this was definitely going to be a test of my strength and determination.

In my case I was trying to buy into the well-known theory that if you face your fears, they will go away and as I have developed a fear of heights over the years, I felt that the Adventure Rope Climbing Course could be step one of the long road to eliminating my fear.

An Easy Safety Briefing First

Upon my arrival, I was fitted out head-to-toe with strong and sturdy climbing gear and then led to the beginner’s instruction area to learn the safety rules and procedures. This area consisted of a rope, a small tree and zip line that were just a couple of feet off the ground. An ideal starting place as far as I was concerned!

My instructor for the morning was Ufuk who can credit himself with designing and building the park which is the first and only Adventure Rope Climbing Course in Turkey. He seemed to be more confident of my abilities then I was.

After the safety instructions finished, there was fear pumping through my veins quicker than a full blown power surge so I decided to swallow my pride and asked meekly if I could start on the kid’s course first. Yes, this short course was designed for kids of seven years old but I like to ease into these things gently! With the kids course done and dusted, next on the agenda was the easy adult’s course.

The Kids Course

That is When It Went Wrong

As I was climbing the rope ladder up to the platform situated in the tree, I looked down and my sense of balance disappeared. My heart started to race and my legs felt like they could easily buckle through weakness.

While I was clinging to the rope ladder, quivering and refusing to move, my instructor Ufuk, just calmly passed the time of day, standing at the bottom of the tree discussing anything that came to mind. It turned out that I am not the first person who discovers when half way up a tree that they are not a master at adventure sports.

Fear was freezing every bone in my body, but my mind started thinking properly and I figured that I had to either carry on or turn back. Eventually I battled on and at the end of that section decided that I had made enough effort for one day to conquer my fear of heights. However Ufuk thought different.

Moving on up!

The Most Strangest Thing Happened

Considering my last pathetic attempt, I was rather surprised when Ufuk suggested that I attempt the much-higher zip lining rope. He promised that my pride would be restored after attempting the 50 meter rope that would take me breezing through the air from a high tree to solid ground with ease.

I agreed but the problem was that I had to climb the tree. A sturdy ladder led the way to a high platform where Ali, another instructor was stood talking me through each move of the climb. I attached all the gear as instructed and the next task was to push myself off.

My reaction was one that totally surprised me. I had just jumped out of a high tree and was hanging on for dear life to a metal pulley that was sending me racing through the air at a high height. However my fear of heights had disappeared.

I felt calm, relaxed and was actually enjoying it. The fear was greater when I was stood static in the tree then when I was breezing through midair with nothing underneath me that would break my fall.

As Ufuk would say, the course does more for a fear of heights in three hours than any course of therapy could do in a year. Yes, I feel as though step one of eliminating my fear was achieved. The course itself was the highlight of my day but they say one of the best things about travel is the people you meet, and Ufuk is truly an aspiring person who helped kick start my south western tour.

About Ufuk Guven – Owner and Instructor

From canyon rafting to paragliding to trekking through the Taurus Mountains, this man knows his stuff. He has an active passion for the outdoors and has turned it into business in the form of Activity sports in Kas and the Adventure Rope Climbing Park in Kemer.

He has also organized the annual swimming race from Kas to Meis (Turkey to a Greek island!) and speaks Turkish, English, German and French. If exploring, trekking and adventure sports are your passion and you are in the Antalya or Kas region, get in touch with Ufuk, who will tell you more in half an hour than the internet ever could in a lifetime.

Mount Tahtali

2012-05-22T08:20:00.000-07:00

Mount Tahtali was the first thing that I wanted to do while in Kemer. Reviews from the internet promised

“amazing landscape views from this tall mountain of Turkey that stands 2365 meters above sea level”

During the months of Jan to April, it is said that you can go skiing on Mount Tahtali in the morning, descend to the resort of Kemer and swim in the Mediterranean Sea in the afternoon. I was not interested in the skiing or swimming part though, just the views and combating my fear of heights.

Mount Tahtali bases its location as Kemer – Antalya and if you are a hardened outdoor activity person, you can climb the mountain over a period of time. I am however, a hardened smoker whose working days involve sitting lazily for hours at a computer so I decided to take the easy route and jump in the cable car.

To get there from Antalya, there are numerous tour companies selling this as a daytime excursion or you can travel there independently by car. The cable car company itself, also operates a shuttle service from the main town of Kemer called “Sea and Sky“.

This transport which is included in the price of the ticket will drive you up tight and winding mountain roads until you reach the base camp. From there, they shove 80 people into a cable car, press the “go” button and it slowly makes it way to the summit.

The reward when you have suffered ten minutes of elbows in your ribs, pathetic jokes about the cable car falling and nervous questions about safety standards in Turkey, is a complete view of the Beydaglari Mountains, the coast line of the Antalya region and of the beautiful Mediterranean Sea.

The view stopped me in my tracks and introduced me to the beauty of the Antalya region of Turkey. Tourists flock to Mount Tahtali from all the surrounding resorts including Belek, Cirali and Olympos national park so be aware that at high season, there could be long queues.

At the summit are two reasonably priced restaurants, souvenir shops, a professional photographer and two static levels which meant I could capture outstanding photographs to remind me forever that I had made it to the top.

Three Ways to come back down the Mount Tahtali

For those of you who love adventure, think about paragliding off the top of the mountain and spend time soaring through the air before landing in the Kemer region at the foot of the mountain.

Don’t forget that the mountain also doubles up as a ski resort in the winter months so there is the option to ski down. (Not a fact that many people know about Turkey, but there are numerous ski resorts in the country as well). I decided however to play it safe and take the cable car down.

Despite a fear of heights, the safety procedures that I was eagerly watching gave me a sense of confidence and I had no regrets about making Mount Tahtali, one of my first destinations on mysouth western Turkey tour. If you happen to be anywhere in the Antalya region while in Turkey, don’t miss on this wonderful and amazing experience.

Idyllic Phaselis

2012-05-22T08:14:00.000-07:00

Phaselis is backed by magnificent mountains and surrounded by the clear waters of the Mediterranean sea. It is an idyllic setting in which to spend the day relaxing on a beach and soaking up the vibes of a Turkish holiday.

Phaselis

There is an added bonus though as Phaselis is not just about golden sand beaches. It is also an old sea-port city dating back to the 7th Century BC which was a delight for me as I have never seen an ancient sea port that is still located next to the sea.

Main street at Phaselis

I love visiting ruins around Turkey but most of them have been located inland as over hundreds of years, the sea has receded back from the coastline. Phaselis though, has always maintained its rightful place directly next to the sea and the result is glorious ruins to explore and beautiful beaches to relax on.

Phaselis Beach

Start your tour at one beach, explore the ruined houses, baths and shops and when you reach the other beach, get the swimming costume out and run into the Mediterranean sea.

Houses at Phaselis

Considering how old Phaselis is, I really did get a feel for how daily life was, when the city was in its prime. The long waterway canals, round theatre and ancient agoras were carefully planned and built around the main harbor street that gives way to views of the crystal blue sea and golden beaches.

Waterway Canal At Phaselis

You certainly don’t need a guide to explore the ruins as you are handed information when arriving and at certain points around the ruins, detailed information is given to fill you in on the background of the area of the city that you are exploring.

Theatre at Phaselis

Phaselis – Additional Information

There is no cafeteria near the ruins or the beaches so remember to take your own refreshments.

There is the dodgy dude on the beach who sells refreshments from his boat however he has obviously realized that he has no competition and his prices reflect his desire to achieve millionaire status in the refreshment industry!

Dodgy Dude!

The entrance fee is 8 Turkish liras whether you are viewing the ruins or just using the beaches as both are situated within a protected area.

Boats docking into Phaselis

How to Get To Phaselis

It can be reached by using local transport on the Antalya coastal highway. The turning to reach Phaselis is between the resorts of Cirali and Kemer. Once you are at the turning, you will need to walk for around 1km to reach the entrance.

Alternatively there are many boat trips that dock into the bay for a couple of hours and this is ample time to walk around the beautiful and glorious city of Phaselis and lay down on the golden beaches to soak up the Turkish sun.

Beach at Phaselis

The Burning Flames of Chimaera

2012-05-22T08:09:00.000-07:00

Travel websites describe the burning flames of Chimaera as “fascinating”. They recommend the eternal fire of Lycia is a “must visit” when in the Antalya region. One travel writer even went as far to describe a mystical presence which mesmerized her.

The flames burn from crevices in the rocks of the Cirali Mountains and ancient beliefs credit this location as the source of the myth of the Chimera, a ghastly creature which is composed of the parts of various animals and who breathes hot fire flames in defence.

For hundreds of years, sailors could see the flames from sea and used them as a landmark while tales of their origins were colorful and varied. Even though the scientific explanation for the flames is natural methane gas oozing from the rocks, I bought into the hype and mystery, placing Chimaera on my list of places to go.

Now that I have been there and seen it, I can describe Chimaera to anyone who wants to know but my version will be totally different from the guidebooks.

The burning flames of Chimaera are overrated and the most disappointing place that I visited on my solo tour.

Walking Up To The Flames

I was told to take a torch as the path leading up to the flames at night time is poorly lit. I should have been told to take a flood light instead! I slowly made my way up the slippery 800 meter stony path that twisted and turned. Sections of the path with no safety barriers ensured my overactive imagination feared that if I accidently walked over the side, the mountain of Chimaera would be my last resting place.

The night time air was hot, damp patches of sweat appeared all over my t-shirt and my hair was sticking fast to my face. A combination of tar filled lungs and thin mountain air ensured that by the time I made it to the top, I seriously thought I was going to throw up all of my inner body parts.

My reaction on seeing the flames was that I had been conned. To be fair, I have since learned that the height and strength of the flames depend on barometric pressure, at the time of visiting. However the long and horrendous walk up to the top of the mountain is just not worth the effort. I could produce the same effect from pumping up flames in my garden BBQ.

If you want to be mystical about it, head up to the flames with some exotic and illegal smoke, then let your imagination go wild. Otherwise don’t be too disappointed if you do not make it to the burning flames of Chimaera.

İstanbul

2012-05-22T04:52:00.004-07:00

Istanbul's local transportation system is a complex network of trams, funiculars, light-rail lines, metro lines, buses, bus rapid transit, and even ferries. Fares across modes are integrated, using the contactless Istanbulkart, introduced in 2009, or the older Akbil electronic ticket device.^[224]

Trams date back to 1872, when they were horse-drawn, but Istanbul's original trams were decommissioned in the 1960s. Istanbul experimented withtrolleybuses afterward, but they were also taken out of service, in 1984.^[225] Operated by Istanbul Electricity, Tramway, and Tunnel (IETT), trams slowly returned to the city beginning in 1990, with the reopening of the route along İstiklal Avenue.^[225] Faster, more modern trams (the T1) were first put into service in 1992, and service across the Golden Horn was restored for the first time in 44 years in 2005. Today, Istanbul's modern tram line, which goes between Kabataş and Bağcılar, has a daily ridership of 265,000 people.^[226]

Commuter ferries have been operating on the Bosphorus since 1851.^[227]

The Tünel (F2) opened in 1875 as the world's second-oldest subterranean rail line (after London's Metropolitan Railway); it still carries passengers between Karaköy and Beyoğlu along a steep 573-meter (1,880 ft) track.^[225]^[228] Another funicular, the Kabataş-Taksim Funicular, is much newer, having recently entered service in 2006; this 600-meter (2,000 ft) line (F1) links Taksim Square with the T1 terminus at Kabataş.^[229] The Istanbul LRT is a light rail system consisting of two lines—the M1, which terminates at Atatürk International Airport,^[230] and the T4. Both lines are completely segregated from other traffic and free from level crossings. The Istanbul Metro, first opened in 2000, currently has just one line—the M2—contained northeast of the Golden Horn. However, construction of an extension across the Golden Horn, as well as of another line—the M4—on the Asian side, is underway; the M4 is expected to open in 2012.^[231]^[232] The two sides of Istanbul's metro will ultimately be connected under, the Bosphorus when the Marmaray tunnel, the first rail connection of any kind between Thrace and Anatolia, is completed in 2015.^[233]

Until then, ferries compose the primary mode of public transportation between the European and Asian halves of the city. İDO (Istanbul Seabuses) runs a combination of all-passenger ferries and car-and-passenger ferries to ports on both sides of the Bosphorus, as far north as the Black Sea.^[234]^[235]With additional destinations around the Sea of Marmara, İDO runs the largest municipal ferry operation in the world.^[236] Buses also provide transportation between the two halves of Istanbul, and across shorter distances within each side, accommodating 2.2 million passenger-trips each day.^[237] The Metrobus, a form of bus rapid transit, also traverses the Bosphorus Bridge, with dedicated lanes leading to its termini on either side; the Metrobus accounts for a third of all passenger-trips by bus.^[238]

Intercity travel

As the only sea route between the oil-rich Black Sea and the Mediterranean, the Bosphorus is one of the busiest waterways in the world; more than 200 million tonnes of oil pass through the strait each year, and the traffic on the Bosphorus is three times that on the Suez Canal.^[239] As a result, proposals have been made to build a canal, known as Canal Istanbul, parallel to the Bosphorus, on the European side of the city.^[240] The city's main cargo port, the Port of Haydarpaşa, is Turkey's third-largest, with an annual cargo capacity of 5.9 million tonnes.^[241] Cruise liners brought450,000 foreign tourists to Istanbul in 2009, docking at ports in Karaköy or Pendık.^[136]

Haydarpaşa Terminal, which closed in 2012, once served as the terminus of rail service to Baghdad, Damascus and Medina.

International rail service from Istanbul launched in 1889, with a line between Bucharest and Istanbul's Sirkeci Terminal, which ultimately became famous as the eastern terminus of the Orient Express between Paris and Istanbul.^[60] Regular service to Bucharest and Thessaloniki continued until the early 2010s, when the former was suspended and the latter was interrupted due to construction of the Marmaray tunnel.^[242]^[243] After Istanbul's Haydarpaşa Terminal opened in 1908, it served as the western terminus of the Baghdad Railway and an extension of the Hejaz Railway; today, neither service is offered directly from Istanbul.^[244]^[245]^[246] Service to Ankara and other points across Turkey is normally offered by Turkish State Railways, but construction of Mamaray and the Istanbul-Ankara high-speed line forced the station to close in February 2012.^[247] New stations to replace both the Haydarpaşa and Sirkeci terminals, and connect the city's disjointed railway networks, are expected to open upon completion of the Marmaray project in 2015; until then, Istanbul is left without intercity rail service.^[247]

Atatürk International Airport is the city's main airport; it served 37 million passengers in 2011.

Private bus companies operate routes along, but also well beyond, those offered by the rail network. Istanbul's main bus station is the largest in Europe, with a capacity of 15,000 buses and 600,000 passengerseach day.^[248] Direct bus service is available to as far as Frankfurt, 1,870 kilometers (1,160 mi) away.^[249]Even prior to the closure of Haydarpaşa, intercity travel by coach was the most popular mode of domestic travel.

Istanbul has two international airports, the larger of which is Atatürk International Airport. Atatürk International, located 24 kilometers (15 mi) west of the city center, handled 37.4 million passengers in 2011; this ranks it the eighth-busiest airport in Europe and among the thirty busiest in the world.^[250]Sabiha Gökçen International Airport opened on the Asian side of the city, 45 kilometres (28 mi) east of the European city center, to relieve Atatürk International. Sabiha Gökçen is dominated by low-cost carriers, with destinations in Europe, the Middle East and North Africa. Istanbul's second airport has rapidly become popular among travelers in the ten years since it opened, in 2001; the airport handled 12.7 million passengers in 2011, two years after a new international terminal opened, and was named the world's fastest growing airport by Airports Council International the same year.^[251]^[252]