Twentysteady

Ghana

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Wed, 10 Aug 2011 01:45:00 +0000

Skydiving was amazing! Expecting the (terrifying) adrenaline rush I've come to associate with extreme heights, I was pleasantly surprised by the floating, fleeting, pleasant experience of flying with parachute attached. We "rode thermals" as the pros say: aka used the hot air rushing up from the Earth to motor us around. My instructor was great, and together we soared. Ghana's annual paragliding festival is a must-do event.

Zambia

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Wed, 10 Aug 2011 01:31:00 +0000

An infrequent, pictorial update! Sharing some recent adventures

Making Shima and playing drums for a Zambian wedding

Livingstone Falls - Even in low season, breathtaking. (Way better from the Zambia side)

Elephant SAFARI!

An Infrequent Update from Livingstone, Zambia

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Fri, 19 Nov 2010 18:47:00 +0000

It's my third trip to Zambia, and every time I like Lusaka more and more. It's a really quiet city, but it's easy to drive around, and lush with trees and flowers and well-manicured streets. I've heard it called the Garden City of Africa.

I left today for the weekend to travel by plane to Livingstone. It was a quick trip and within twenty minutes of landing, I was settled in my hotel and hiking to the Falls. Where I'm staying is situated on the National Park itself, which makes exploring the Falls and spotting zebra really convenient. As I maneuvered in my directionally challenged way along the path to the falls, local Zambians intervened, suggesting that the nicer views were actually in the exact opposite direction of the path. They then proceed to follow the hapless tourists skipping over mudflats, sharing fun facts about the falls (200 meters tall!) and asking for $20 for getting you lost.
I turned down my guide and made my way on the path. I have some great pictures, which I'll actually post this time.

After the falls, and the pool, and a sunset walk in the park, I'm ready to call it a night. Tomorrow, I'm riding an elephant.

Kinshasa By Day

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Wed, 22 Sep 2010 05:21:00 +0000

Modern and developed? Did I really write that? Well, coming in at night I did spot an ATM and what looked to be a downtown area - Kinshasa by day shows the barbed wire on every surface, the effects of 30 years of misrule followed by civil war, and hands everywhere, beseeching you for help.

It's different from any other place I've been in Africa, but still a capital city. Westerners and wealthy Congolese have access to a thriving restaurant scene. It's expensive because the food stuffs are so difficult to transport in, but last night's Nile river perch was delicious. My hotel is modern and safe, but I always feel like I'm the only woman around - surrounded by nefarious looking business men and international peacemakers/jetsetters. Yesterday in the elevator I saw a UN group exciitng for dinner and I swear they looked like the A Team.

I'm reading King Leopold's War - it's a really excellent history of the Belgian colonial rule - one of the most cruel examples of colonization in history. It's a great read, but it does make me sad for the potential of this country, the size of Western Europe, home to 68 million people.

The DRC

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Sun, 19 Sep 2010 20:01:00 +0000

I just landed in Kinshasa. My first international trip since May. So far - so good. All my flights were great (upgrades!), easy layover, and my suitcase is here too. The drive from airport to hotel was longer than I expected, with almost no lights. I haven't seen Kinshasa by day, but I think it might be different from what I've been expecting too - more modern and developed.

Ntungamo

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Mon, 17 May 2010 20:12:00 +0000

We left on Sunday, around 9:00, traveling what would end up being about seven hours, after counting in for lunch and a photo op at the equator. Our goal was to visit a school that participated in a block grant projet. We weren't collecting data, just getting a sense of what data would be available to collect. This would inform the study design. We slept at the Ben Hill guest house, a bit rustic, but clean and nice. I took a walk through the (two) streets of Ntungamo with our driver, Hadij. The town was small, with empty storefronts, development agencies, and small shops with painted signs dotting its streets. Monday morning, we left for the schools, delayed by district officials schedules and a requisite trip to an official's office. I struggle the most on trips to the field with the need for patience and rescinding my own agenda. In Africa time is different, but I''m often not. The hours ticked away, we were no closer to the schools, and a seven hour trip home loomed. I don't like to drive in the dark. I'm calm about careening through the gravel and pot-holed streets during the day, but at night the casual passing, near-misses on curves, and lack of lighting is not my favorite.

The school visits went well. I was unnecessarily pessimistic before. In fact, very good records were taken, in longhand. How all of this info would be triangulated, will be decided later by the study designers. I was interested in the records and in the items procured for the school, which included books for the library and science materials. Along the path to the library, the school had planted signs saying "Viginity is Healthy" and "Respect Yourself." Posters about "something for something sex" or transactional sex hung in the library. Uganda has been one of the more open countries in Africa in dealing with its HIV epidemic. From my brief look at the materials at the school, this seemed to be true.

Seven hours later, we arrived back in Kampala. Afraid of the ash cloud, I re-routed my flight. In a few hours, I'll board in Entebbe and travel back to DC. I' m ready to be home.

Kampala: Markets and Makerere

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Sat, 15 May 2010 19:49:00 +0000

I spent the morning in the market. We call it "Africrap." Unkind, perhaps, but an apt description of the mostly Asian-manufactured goods on sale at various markets all over the continent. It's really unusual to find something outside of the norm of plastic woven baskets, serving spoons, wooden bowls, etc... I've bought some cool stuff, don't get me wrong, and a lot of it I'd find for sale at Urban for five times as much. Today I bought cool coasters, oven mitts, and signature Ugandan necklaces (woven from magazines). I also bought coffee, and lots of it, all Ugandan, all found in different parts of the state. It smells delicious. My bag is now stuffed with six bottles of wine and seven bags of coffee. Customs in Zambia was a little dicey, we'll see how this goes on my way home.

I walked to the market, which is a bit unusual for me. Because of security and the distance, I almost always take a taxi or hire a driver for the day when I'm abroad. Because Kampala is so safe and so compact (at least our hotel is in the city center so it feels compact, I'm sure it's much more spread out if you know it), I walked easily around. People were helpful if I needed directions. Everyone speaks English, it's the language of instruction for secondary school.

After that, it was time for lunch and a meeting at Makerere University. It was interesting to visit a University within Africa. Students were everywhere, which was a good sign for a Saturday. Storks were also omnipresent, leading to many a fertility joke. Our contact, a professor, had a heavy duty padlock on his office door. We spoke about block grants and learned these can exist in (at least) two different forms: one which gives the money to the schools to support students, but doesn't stipulate how. Another that provides "in-kind" donations rather than money. This is meant to help reduce corruption as they funds then can't be diverted. How would you measure whether indirect funding does reduces corruption? Another question, what is the actual measurement of successful education? Is it getting to University? Getting a job after University? Simply finishing secondary schools? In an economy with few jobs, more education may not truly be a marker for successful education programs; especially if it leads to more debt.

Kampala, Uganda

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Fri, 14 May 2010 19:14:00 +0000

It feels like I've been in Africa for a long time. In reality, my trip began May 1, which was only two weeks ago. Today was a relatively short day (8-6) and tomorrow is light too, since it's a Saturday. I think Uganda is fascinating, and I wish I had more time here. I won't go to the conflict-ridden North, but that's where many of the donor projects are based, for good reason. For the information we're seeking on this trip, today's meeting offered some good leads. It seems school records might be kept, and might even be disaggregated by orphan status. (What shape the records are in is anyone's guess.) Tomorrow's trip to the South will give us more insight. I had an amazing Indian meal tonight. During Idi Amin's reign (of terror) all of the Asian community was expelled from Uganda, only recently have they begun to re-enter and take up their former properties and businesses. Uganda has also experienced quick economic growth in its post-conflict era, but this has not yet been coupled with democratic reforms.

From Lusaka to Kampala

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Thu, 13 May 2010 19:51:00 +0000

Via llongwe, Malawi and Nairobi, Kenya. It was a long travel day, but not really too bad. All of my bags arrived, the plane food didn't kill me, and I managed to maintain a fairly high level of civility with my seatmate, who was traveling in Africa, curing people of AIDS through prayer. I asked him whether he spoke in tongues, and he said, "Of course, I'm a Christian." I said, "I'm a Lutheran, and we don't do anything like that." He seemed unconvinced, but I headed him off before he tried to convert me. I think that wouldn't have gone well for him.

I've heard really nice things about Kampala, Uganda, and I'll be here until Wednesday. It's the first "new" place I've visitied in Africa since last April's trip to Kenya. It's funny how even just one time in a place makes it feel familiar, probably because the scope of what I see is actually so narrow (certain hotels, restaurants, the Mission, etc) I'll go into the field on Sunday, which is always the most important and my favorite part. This trip is to look at whether organizations that pay school fees for children as a block grant to the school (rather than on behalf of the individual child) are more successful at getting and keeping kids in school. The aim is to figure out whether educational outcomes improve, but the design is complicated by a host of factors - will there be test data available? Has the school tracked its attendance? Do other variables (lack of teacher, home situation) confound the question? It's an interesting project, and I'm excited to be involved and see what happens on this visit.

Back By Popular Demand?

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Wed, 12 May 2010 06:35:00 +0000

Okay, my mom and one other person inquired about the blog's long hiatus. It's true. I've let twentysteady languish and have posted no pics of January's trip to the Bahamas, March travels in South Africa, or my current odyssey through South Africa, Zambia, and Uganda. For this last one, I forgot my camera, which leaves me with fewer visuals, more text, and less incentive to post.

I'm realizing as I'm typing that I've actually missed writing twentysteady. So to all seven of my readers, I'm back! Hopefully with more frequent postings than last time. One of the most major changes in my life since December was my upgrade to Gold Medallion status as a Delta flyer. On this trip, I've spent about six hours alone in various business class lounges (DC, Amsterdam, Johannesburg.) I love free mini sandwhiches, and I love business class lounges. (Don't worry, tax payers - I fly coach.)

We spent last week in Cape Town, and I actually have some photos to post later. It was winter in Cape Town (a handy reference would have been www.weather.com I didn't think to check it and packed only summer dresses) One trip to woolworth's later, and I was prepared for the chill. I loved the wine tasting, trying out exotic cousine throughout the city's fresh, local restaurant scene, and our super cool mod hotel. This was all after a work conference however, so it was definitely a balance of work and fun. (Probably heavier on the work side.) Zambia has been nice because I've been here before and I'm starting to know people from the different spots I travel, which is awesome because it's like catching up with friends all over the world, instead of traveling solo. One more day before Uganda and I'm heading to the field.

World AIDS Day

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Tue, 01 Dec 2009 09:45:00 +0000

I've been working in Bangkok for a couple of weeks, and I commemorated World AIDS Day (today!) with two separate events in BKK (abbreviation for Bangkok). In the 1990s Thailand instituted some of the most progressive and effective HIV prevention programs in the world. One man, Mechai Viravaidya, is credited for his leadership in promoting condom distribution and use all over Thailand. Mechai's NGO, Population and Community Development Association, is still on the forefront of HIV prevention. You can eat at their HIV-prevention themed restaurant, Cabbages and Condoms, or stay at their HIV-prevention themed holiday resort in Pattaya, Birds and Bees.

On Sunday and Monday of this week, the donor and government community along with NGOs in Bangkok devoted to HIV prevention, treatment, and care, assembled in honor of World AIDS Day. I don't have pictures of the fantastic fashion show sponsored by SWING, an NGO providing services to men who have sex with men who are also sex workers, but I do have a few of those modeled by PDA yesterday (see above). The smell of polyurethane in these get ups is overwhelming, but the designs are really remarkable are the messages are incredibly important. While Thailand was a world leader in HIV prevention ten to fifteen years ago, today its government financial commitment to prevention has decreased. HIV prevalence among MSM, meanwhile has increased, with epiemiological data showing an increase from 17 % in 2003 to 31% in 2009. These statistics are a reminder of the importance of continued global commitments to the fight against HIV/AIDS worldwide, and the importance of strong, community based prevention and stigma reduction for those groups most at risk of acquiring the virus.

Boat Races!

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Sun, 22 Nov 2009 01:20:00 +0000

It's been almost three weeks, but I wanted to post some pictures of the Cambodian water festival. The boats are so intricately crafted and beautiful. It was so impressive to see the participants racing in the Tonle Sap's currents.

More Pictures

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 14:25:00 +0000

Our hotel in the Thai Islands, Koh Samui where the motto is, "Real happiness is not complicated at all." I couldn't agree more.

Koh Samui

The Royal Palace, Bangkok (It's exactly like the Wizard of Oz.)

Pictures of Angkor Wat

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 00:24:00 +0000

Bullet holes from the Khmer Rouge period, against Angkor Wat.

Tomb Raider.

Apsaras were born from the churning of the sea of milk.

Cambodia Travels

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 04:32:00 +0000

The past few weekends I've stayed and traveled in Cambodia. First to Kep and Kampot, then on to Siem Reap. I caught the Water Festival in Phnom Penh, and now I'm in Sihanoukville. Cambodia, outside of Phnom Penh, is incredibly varied. From gorgeous beaches on the Gulf of Thailand to one of the ancient wonders of the world, I've seen a lot in just a few weeks, including a lunar festival marking the change in the Tonle Sap's flow -- the only river in the world to change directions once a year. My modes of transport have varied too -- from shared taxi and rickety boat out on to Rabbit Island, airplanes and tuk tuks to Siem Reap, and my own personal driver to Sihanoukville (ha!). It took me probably far too long to start touring around Cambodia, but I've really liked what I've seen.

Read a clever article in the NYtimes about Cambodia's coast here: I'm staying at the same hotel where Jacquelyn Kennedy Onassis stayed on her holiday through Cambodia a few decades ago.

Bali

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 12:15:00 +0000

I have some stories to tell about Bali. It's amazing how quickly these experiences pass and before I've written anything I've already been to another crazy location or had another experience maybe worth blogging about. I'm really lucky to be seeing and doing as much as I have been. Bali, however, should be enjoyed over the course of a week or two, not squeezed into 36 hours. If I were to do it again I would stay longer and I would stay on the beach.

We stayed in Ubud, home of author Elizabeth Gilbert, while she was writing the Love section of Eat, Pray, Love. Julia Roberts was in town at the same time, frequenting the Monkey Forest, and getting into the character of Elizabeth in the film version of the book. We didn't see her. We did, however, visit Ketut Liyer, the Balinese traditional medicine man Elizabeth credits for helping her get back on her feet after her tumultuous divorce and find love again. After having my fortune read, I can safely say all signs point to a long, happy, wealthy life. My good friend and traveling companion received the same exact fortune, which could possibly make a suspicious person question the validity of the wonderful prophecy we paid $10 each for. I don't question.

Yes, he is wearing a soccer t-shirt. Yes, I am wearing a strappy sun dress (not realizing the religious nature of the fortune teller event. . . )

We may have only come away with a good story and some good karma from our time with Ketut, as opposed to lottery numbers or stock picks. The group before us, however, were all Balinese women in traditional dress, visiting the Medicine Man for wisdom or advice.

More pictures of the beach:

BALI!

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 22:57:00 +0000

Take Offs and Landing

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 13:20:00 +0000

The New Commute

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 13:32:00 +0000

Leaving my hotel, traveling along the waterfront, passing by flags from every state.

I'm always surprised by how much people utilize the parks. The benches are always full of people, enjoying their green spaces, chatting, napping, etc.. One woman sits and knits across from my hotel every day.

Across the street.

Dancing in the Dark

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 11:49:00 +0000

Every evening and every morning, Cambodians gather in the parks and along the riverfront to dance (or do aerobics, not pictured). Men and women, young and old, get together to have a little public exercise and practice their synchronized grooves. I especially enjoy watching the line dances.

With Love, from the Himawari

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Tue, 06 Oct 2009 11:32:00 +0000

Surprise flowers and birthday cake from the hotel management! 26 years old today, still twentysteady.

You're the Man!

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 22:58:00 +0000

I meant to write this post earlier. Sunday night, I made my television debut as a studio audience member of You're the Man! - a Cambodian, reality television show. As a front row participant, and one of six non-Khmer attendees, I received my fair share of camera time. Inexplicably, it seems there are videos camera at nearly every event I've attended for work in Phnom Penh and they've been trained on my face for approximately 20% of the time. Unsettling, yes, but footage of audience members "listening" to presentations in a foreign language: riveting, I'm sure.

For You're the Man!, six Cambodian men lived together for two months and competed in several televised challenges to discover who best embodied the qualities of a "real" Cambodian man. in one episode, this meant doing work a woman would typically do in a rural village (laundry, cooking, gathering firewood, childcare, unremitting, unpaid familial duties, etc). In another they competed to see how many men each could convince to take a voluntary, confidential, HIV test. In madcap Cambodian fashion, this meant piling into tuk tuks and racing to the testing centers. Others varied between fun (learning to live like monks, dressing up as a condom super hero and passing out condoms) and more serious (solving a ghost story with themes of domestic violence.)

I really liked the finale. The crowd was excited. There was a karaoke contest, as there's been at every work event I've gone to, with invariably excellent singing. Although I wasn't able to fully grasp the Khmer, I also liked the show's messages and think a mass media approach to supporting more positive gender norms can potentially reach more people. It's difficult to measure, but encouraging change through role modeling positive norms is both fun and innovative.

Luang Prabang Clouds

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Sun, 27 Sep 2009 04:18:00 +0000

From Luang Prabang

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 00:11:00 +0000

A small carving on the temple door.

Another Sunset on the riverfront.

Spotting the monks, evening in the Wat.

Laos

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea) — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:45:00 +0000

I'm tempted to write overly fluid prose about how beautiful and calm and civilized everything felt to me. I want to tell the story of how adventure tours in developing countries can leave you pedaling on a bike without gears and capsized in the Mekong, but barely bothered because the views are so perfect, the waterfalls so inviting, and lunch was held at an elephant sanctuary. I've never been afraid to fly, but when our propeller plane lifted up over the mountains and was enveloped in the perfect white clouds, I was terrified, again, and barely comforted by the stillness between ascent and landing. This was my departure, leaving the calm in Laos, my hands gripping the seats beside me, enjoying the last views of a mountain top paradise before forging straight back to frenetic everyday.

It's like a different world, a sanctuary of sorts, where yes, things are getting touristy (my own, a case in point). But the city has retained its otherworldly charm, traditions, and slow, easy pace against the backdrop of camera-touting travelers who want to experience for a weekend what for others is a lifetime.