UnME HOME-UPKEEP DIY

Replacing Failed or Damaged Main Circuit Breaker (MCB)

2016-03-09T21:41:00.000-08:00

All the houses with electricity supply have a small rectangular box near the main door. This box may be made of Plastic with a transparent cover (new MCB box) or a Metal box/Wooden box (old MCB box)

ELCB

Inside the box is a row of Main Circuit Breaker (MCB) plus an Earth-Leakage Circuit Breaker(ELCB) and a Main incoming power switch that looks like this .(picture on the right)

A row of MCB in the box

On the left is a row of MCB

ELCB is the first level of circuit breaking in the event of power leakage or overloading.

MCB is the second level circuit breaker.

These MCBs do not last a lifetime. After about 10 to 12 years, they will fail and needed replacement.

Main Switch in the MCB box.

The ELCB must be tested regularly to ensure proper functioning. The main switch must be turned off before changing or replacing any MCB.

Warning: IF you are not trained, DO NOT meddle with MCB box. This is highly DANGEROUS.

LEAVE THIS JOB TO A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN.

I have a friendly electrician who would take care of all the wiring and electrical problems in my house. He has served me well for many years. He would not fail to answer to my electrical problems. Sometimes, the 3-Pin power socket simply has no power supply. The light refused to lighten up with the switch turned on. A certain section of the house has no power supply completely i,e, the Fridge, the light and the fan all not working. And this is usually caused by a tripped or failed MCB. He would obligingly come and changed the failed MCB or simply re-set the tripped MCB. Most of my calls for his services are related to MCB. His charges for materials and labour are reasonable.

To replace a MCB is only a half an hour job, but lately, he spent 1 to 2 hours in the traffic to come and another 1 to 2 hours to go back to his shop. He always come with an assistant electrician. That is about four and a half man-hours per person multiply by two persons is equivalent to nine (9) man-hours for the simple job. That is probably not very profitable to him to charge me RM180 (USD45.00) for replacing one MCB.

He decided to terminate his services and taught me some basic electrician skills and how to replace a MCB.

Henceforth, I have been replacing the MCBs DIY in my home.

Important: MCB, ELCB and Main Switch position are different from normal switch. UP position is power on, DOWN position is power off. (The old level switch in Malaysian home is the opposite. UP position is power OFF and DOWN position is power ON.)

DO NOt touch the LIVE wire to the Main switch, even on OFF position. It still has electricity current.

If the MCB is on down position, the power supply has tripped. This could be due to overloading or power leakage at the device or appliance's point. To test the MCB, switch off all the power points connected to this MCB. Then re-set the MCB by pushing the MCB switch lever upwards. If the switch cannot be pushed to re-set or the lever refused to stay up, this means the MCB has failed,

Once the MCB is successfully re-set or replaced, turn on the power points connected to this MCB one by one.

The power point/appliance/device that caused this MCB to trip is the one with power leakage or overloading. This is not a MCB issue and needs a different solution.

Highly recommended to wear a pair of cotton gloves and rubber shoes as a safety precaution while working on MCB box.

Replace the MCB with the same power rating only. MCBs for
home use come in C10, C16, C20 and C32. The number denotes the amperes of electricity. That is 10 amps to 32 amps range only.

There are various brands of MCB in the market. The more reliable and reputable brand are HAGER. GE and ABB. The common local Malaysian brand are MAXGUARD and SAFETY. The price difference between European brand and Malaysian brand MCB is great. HAGER cost about RM8.50(USD2.15) a piece. The Malaysian brand MAXGUARD is only RM4.50 (USD1.15) per piece.

To replace a MCB, the following procedures must be strictly observed:-

1. Push the test button of the ELCB, The ELCB switch lever will drop down.
2. Push to the Main switch lever in the MCB box downwards to disconnect power supply to all the MCBs.
3. Use a test pen to test all the MCB wire connections to ensure that there is no electric current flowing. Only after all the tests have passed, then only start to dislodge the damaged/failed MCB.
4. Push the plastic clip at the bottom of the failed MCB downwards to unlock from the bar.
5. Push the MCB upwards to dislodge completely from the bar.
6. Unscrew and remove the wire at top of the MCB.
7. Re-connect the same wire to a new MCB of the same rating..
8. Insert the new MCB from the top of the bar. Ensure the hook of the MCB is hanging on the bar.
9. Push the MCB inwards toward the bar and lock securely by pushing the plastic clip upwards.
10 Ensure the MCB is properly secured to the bar by pulling outwards to test it.

To restore power to the MCB, turn on the ELCB first, follow with the Main switch.

It is advisable to turn off all the MCB before restoring power. After the main switch lever is put to ON position, switch ON the MCB one by one.

I dismantled this failed MCB to find out the cause of the failure.

This is a badly burnt MCB

I always keep a few MCB of C10. C16 and C20 as spares for replacement whenever required, so that I need not run to the electrical supply shop frequently. My MCB box is 13 years old now and prone to MCB failure.

The Most Commonly Used MCB in home are C10, C16 and C20

DO NOT attempt to change the MCB DIY, without proper training from a qualified Electrician

Installing Ceiling Mounted Infrared Motion Sensor Light Switch

2016-02-25T00:55:00.001-08:00

The current hype of "Intelligent Home" is a myth or a reality? My idea of an "Intelligent Home" is one where all the appliances and facilities at home can be controlled or operated remotely via mobile devices or automatically with a user-defined program and with failure-proof warranty.

The software and remote devices are already available in the market. The question is how many Malaysian can manage this "Intelligent Home" system efficiently and effectively. How reliable is the system? How good is the support and maintenance services. Electronic devices can failed without any warning sign. What is the back-up system in the event of circuit board or electronic chip failure?

Pending the arrival of a "full proof" system, I opted for the simpler devices such a Photo sensor, Infrared Motion Sensor, Relay switch and timer switch.

The timer switch was first used in Canada in 1908. Today, this device is widely use for Advertising hoarding board lighting , business signboard lighting and street light. User can set the time for the appliance or equipment to be switched on and off.

Photo sensor detects the surround brightness and will automatically switch the equipment on when the surrounding environment is dark and turn off the light when the environment is bright. I used this sensor for my garden light.

Infrared Motion Sensor detects the heat of occupancy and motion in the environment. This device will turn on the equipment when heat and motion is detected in the environment and switch off when the heat and motion is not detected after a certain pre-set duration.

Timer Switch and Photosensor switch are ready available from local electrical supplier, hardware or DIY shop. But Infrared Motion Sensor is rare in Malaysia. Not many users for this device and therefore, quite difficult to source locally.

Intelligent Passive Infrared Motion Sensor light was invented by two Malaysian brothers from Sitiawan. They won the Geneva Inventors Award in the early 1980s. The commercialisation of the invention did not take off very well due to lack of awareness and users. Thirty years later, this device is widely used in office premises in the Western countries. There is still a limited number of home users.

I am an avid user of Infrared motion sensor since 1990 with a table lamp. Now, my house is cluttered with Infrared Motion sensor from table lamp to wall light and ceiling light. The earlier sensors are either wall mounted or ceiling surface mounted and they can sense only 180 degrees wide
This is my first ceiling flush mounted and 360 degrees sensor . It is more aesthetic and not easily visible or known to intruder or visitor. This is available from online shopping site costing about RM32.00 (USD8.00), inclusive of courier/shipping charges.

The most difficult task of installing a ceiling flush mounted sensor is finding the right position, retrieving the power supply wires inside the ceiling and cutting the hole on ceiling board. The plaster ceiling board is fragile and can be damaged easily. Do plan properly before cutting a hole in the ceiling.

Use an electric drill and a small saw blade to cut the round hole

Three pieces of one-foot long(2mm)wires are required to connect the sensor to the power supply and the light fitting.

Set the duration for the light to last upon detection of motion (2 to 5 minutes) and the lumen of the surrounding environment to activate the sensor switch.

Once the wires are properly connected and the desired setting done, pushed the two anchoring spring clips upward and insert the sensor into the hole in the ceiling board. The sensor sits nicely in the ceiling, with only the eyes of the sensor exposed.

The device is successfully test when the surrounding environment reached the set lumen.

Tools required for this installation are;-

1.An electric Drill
2. A six-foot ladder
3. A thin saw blade
4. A test pen
5. A small precision screw driver
6 A Philip screw driver.
7. A wire stripper

Converting Energy Saver Florescent Down-light to LED Down-light

2016-02-18T02:08:00.001-08:00

Conserving energy and lowering electricity consumption is every consumers' responsibility to reduce global warming and preserve the mother earth. This also helps to keep the earth green.

I can choose to replace the Energy Saver down-light with a new LED down-light. But this is a costly option. A complete set of new LED down-light cost about RM48.00 (USD 12.00) each. To convert it DIY only cost RM10.50 (USD2.63). That is RM8.50 for the new LED bulb and RM2.00 for the E27 bulb holder.

Electricity consumption is burning a big hole in my pocket with the last tariff increase by Tenaga Nasional last year. Even with the current low crude oil price, the electricity tariff is unlikely to be revised downward in the future. In Malaysia, what goes up never comes down. This is very true with utilities and foods prices. When Crude oil price goes up, every thing increase in price. When Crude oil goes down, petrol and other fuel prices remain high. Food prices continue to increase. Why? I Simply cannot understand the economic of prices in Malaysia.

Converting the Energy Saver florescent down-light to LED down-light is a simply process of dismantling the down-light from the ceiling board, remove the choke and bulb holder from the frame and replace it with a standard 27 bulb holder.

The LED 10W on the left (above)cost only RM8.50 per piece versus the Energy Saver costing RM12.00 each.
The 10W LED bulb provides 900 lumen brightness. Whereas the 18W Energy Saver generates 800 lumen. On top of this the LED generates less heat than Energy Saver. I can touch the LED bulb even after being switched on for three hours. But not for the Energy Saver florescent bulb.

.
Dismantling and re-installing the down-light frame involves only three (3) spring clips shown above.

First, Remove the bulb from the holder, follow with the reflector by just pulling down lightly from the frame. The three spring clips is now exposed for dismantling. Removing the three spring will dislodge the frame from the ceiling board. The frame is still suspended on the live and neutral wire. Please ensure the switch if off and the neutral wire has no current flow from other sources, using a test pen. (Very important warning- many electricians were electrocuted in Malaysia by neutral wire.) Disconnect the two wires to remove the frame for conversion.

The only tools for this job is a Philip screw driver and a test pen.

A re-installed LED down-light (below)

A converted LED down-light is re-installed securely on the ceiling board.

Chinese New Year Gang Lantern Lighting.

2014-12-19T03:12:00.000-08:00

The festive season is approaching. Chinese New Year 2015 will be in mid February.

It is not too early to plan and shop for lighting decoration, if you

wanted something different and unique. Shopping for the lighting

equipment is no easy task. You may not even find one after

numerous trips to various lighting shops.

These are the tools required for the job

I wanted a gang light of six lanterns for my car porch, during the

last Chinese New Year. Lighting contractor and electrician

recommended simple wiring in the ceiling with six bulb holders

connected to a power source. They will cut open the ceiling board and plaster back after the job is completed. The second Option is to run surface wiring on the ceiling with PVC casing and

conventional bulb holders fastened to the ceiling board.

A drill with a 1-inch hole saw to cut
holes for fixing bulb holders

Cutting the Aluminium
U Channel to the required length

The issue is the cost and aesthetic.. It cost RM1,500 to fix up six

lanterns inclusive of wiring plus the bulb holders hanging

permanently on the ceiling board.

Self Fabricated fastening
brackets

The wire and clip-on bulb holder is hidden
inside the U channel

Fixture installed using 4 pieces
of brackets

Testing before installing onto the ceiling

My preference is some kind of fixture that I can fix and remove

easily, when not required.

The solution is to fabricate my own gang lighting with a single 3-pin plug for power supply connection..

Completed Installation of 6-gang lanterns

This gang lighting is secured on to the ceiling with 4 pieces of self-fabricated aluminium brackets. Installation and dismantling of the entire set of fixture only requires a screwdriver.

The clip-on wire, clip-on bulb holder and a 1 X 2 inches aluminium U-channel is used to fabricate the set of gang lighting fixture.

Tools required to fabricate the gang lighting are:-

1. Electric drill with a1-inch diameter hole saw.

2. Measuring tape

3. Angular ruler.
4. Hack saw

5. Wire cutter

6. A pair of cotton gloves.

7. Lockable extention pole for support,

8. A 6-foot ladder.

The Final Product

The total cost materials required are:-

1. 8 meters of Clip-on wire (RM12.00)

2. 6 pieces of Clip-on bulb holder (E27 screw type) RM12.00

3. 1 bar of 20 feet Aluminium U-channel. (RM51.50)

4. 4 Aluminium bracket fastener. (RM2.00)

Total Cost RM77.50 (Materials only)

The entire set of lanterns can be unplugged from the power socket

and remove from the ceiling, when not required.

Multiple Water Filter.

2012-10-02T06:48:00.000-07:00

The secondary filter is not
connected yet

Why do I require multiple water filters?

This is due to the very poor quality water being supplied to our home by the water Authority. Until a filter is installed, the contaminated water is normally not visible to our naked eyes. I always use two filters. One sediment filter is installed at the main inlet pipe from the water Authority and a secondary ceramic filter at the kitchen tap. This works very well for many years. But recently, the quality of the water has deteriorated. The main sediment filter is unable to clean the water efficiently. This resulted in the secondary ceramic filter in the kitchen being clogged quickly with low pressure and lightly stained water.

This is only two-week usage.
See the amount of contaminants.

In spite of the regular back flush washing of the primary sediment filter, stained water still flows into the kitchen tap and water tank.

To overcome this problem, a second sediment filter was installed to re-filter the water.

See how dirty is the ceramic filter candle.
Compare this with the clean filter candle above.

To fix up a water filter using UPVC pipe and joints is a fairly easy job, Unfortunately, my primary filter is connected to the water main and kitchen using copper pipe. Therefore, I have to connect the second sediment water filter with the same type of pipe. Copper pipe and copper fittings, now cost ten times the price of similar hardware made of UPVC. The advantage is no odor contamination in the water using copper pipe.

15mm and 20mm Copper pipe

If cost is an issue, one can still use a combination of UPVC and copper pipe but this will involve additional couplings and adaptors, due to thread difference.

The couplings, elbows and t-joints required
for the connection.

These are the tools required.

Use copper tube cutter to cut the pipe
to the required lenght

Looks complicated but offer various options.
By just switching the ball valves, the filters
can change from serial to parallel
or stand alone operation.

The piping work looks complicated. This is not a simple two-serial filter connection. This connection provides many options. These two sediment filters can operate as a stand alone filter, serial filter or parallel filter, by just turning the ball valves. The stand alone filter operation is very useful when one filter is undergoing back flush washing. During back flush washing of the filter, the water supply is temporary halted. But the other filter operates normally and hence. there is no disruption of water supply to the kitchen or the water tank.

This whole job cost RM320.00 (USD100.00) and took nine man-hours to complete. The 20mm copper pipe is selling at RM8.00(USD2.50) per foot run. Each copper coupling/elbow cost RM7.50(USD2.35).

Sail Shade for your Garden

2012-08-08T02:46:00.001-07:00

The steel cable is not clearly visible, if not for the
chunky turnbuckle.

You want to put a nice little coffee table in your garden to enjoy your morning coffee and newspaper but don’t want the hot sunlight? OR need to protect the car from the tropical heat of the sun? Or to protect the lovely KOI fishes in the fishpond from direct sunlight? If you only wanted the shade but not a permanent structure in your garden or courtyard, then Sail shade provides the solution.

Shade Sail is commonly used in USA. UK and Australia during summer time. Malaysians are following this trend now.

Off the shelf shade sail from Houz Depot

Why is this shade called SAIL SHADE?

While there are differences of opinion and names do vary from place to place it is increasingly common to define a shade sail as…. “a fabric membrane tensioned between three or more anchor points”. This is about the simplest description possible for something that can get quite complicated. (*Courtesy of Shade Group)

A shade structure is now regarded as something like a shade sail insofar as it has a fabric membrane but it is tensioned over or supported by a frame.

Sometimes a shade sail will be described as a “shade structure”. There are a number of reasons for this, the main one being that they see a shade sail as a “construction” therefore the reasoning goes ..if it is constructed it must be a “structure”. However sometimes it is a simple case of mistaken identity or ignorance.

Looks like a floating shade sail over the fish pond

Sail or Permanent Structure(Canopy)

You need to first determine your priorities – often this is a case of effectiveness versus aesthetics. Good design can blend both. You want a permanent fixture or a temporary one. There are certainly technical limitations with materials, site restrictions, regulations and prudent design parameters. Cost is also a serious consideration.

The next question might be to determine if shade only or waterproof is needed.
Generally a PVC shade sail or shade structure will be noticeably more expensive than a similar shade cloth version. People often think waterproof PVC is better but upon closer examination shade cloth (shade only) is more than sufficient for their needs.

SHADE SAIL MUST be installed FIRM AND TIGHT so as to reduce windflap in the shade fabric. SHADE SAILS that are loose and sloppy will cause premature failure due to stress.

The shade sail comes in three different shapes, namely triangle, square or rectangle. The sizes varies.

Installing shade sail DIY is easy if there are available anchor points in your garden. The pillar, column and railing of your house can provide ready anchor points. Anchor plate with U hook may be required on certain column and pillar, to fasten the steel cable.

Anchoring plate fixed on the fencing pillar

Fixing poles for anchoring the Shade sail can be disastrous unless this is done with proper footing to withstand the tension of stretching the fabric.

Shade sail are readily available in Malaysia from shade specialist, Houz Depot or Ikea. Alternatively, there are many on-line suppliers from USA, UK or Australia.

Material required for fixing my shade sails(triangular shape sail) are:-

1 1) 26 feet of Steel cable RM8.40(USD2.55)

2) 3 units Turnbuckle (or tension buckle) RM5.00(USD1.51)

3) 12 pieces Steel cable clamp RM3.60(USD1.09)

4) 2 units Shackle RM4.00(USD1.21)

5) 2 units U hook anchor plate. RM4.20(USD1.27)

6) 1 piece Shade Sail 3.5m X3.5M X3.5m (triangular shape).

RM135.00(USD40.90)

The accessories for fixing temporary shade sails.
Steel cable, turnbuckles, Anchoring U-hooks,
cable clamps and rawlplug(for fastening
anchoring plates)

Tools required are:-

1) an electric drill for fixing the anchor plates

2) a Plier & a screwdriver for fixing cable clamps and turnbuckles.

Total cost of fixing the shade sail is RM160.20(USD48.55)

Professional shade suppliers quoted RM1.800 for a similar size shade sail. This sum is inclusive of 3 pieces of mild steel pole of 8 feet high for anchoring. I do not want a permanent structure in my garden. So the anchoring poles are redundant. But the shade specialist refused to do the job without using poles. This is Malaysian suppliers’ attitude.

This shade sail is anchored on the fencing pillar and house column.

Just twist this turnbuckle to tighten or loosen
the cable tension and unhook the shade sail
from the cable.

DIY shade sail installation, without the anchor poles cost only a fraction of the price quoted by the professional shade suppliers. There is no difference in term of tension and aesthetic value. Yet there is no permanent structure in your garden. See how this shade sail can be fixed and removed easily. Just tighten or loosen the turnbuckle attached to the end of the steel cable.

One shade sail over the fish pond and the other for car.

Re-Painting Metal Grilles and Ornamental Metal.

2012-05-20T07:51:00.000-07:00

Gloss paint is the recommended paint for exterior metal grilles and ornamental metal work. This type of paint is a solvent based material that is difficult to work with. Any paint drip is tedious to remove. The same problem goes with cleaning the painting tools.

No paint manufacturer has invented a water-based gloss paint for metal and wood. Nippon Paint has just launched a new Hydro-gloss paint for metal and wood. But this is only for interior use.

The metal ornamental pieces removed
from the grilles to facilitate re-painting.

Diluting gloss paint is another issue. Certain gloss paint can mix with Turpentine only. Turpentine is recommended for diluting most made of gloss paint. It can also be used for removing drips and stains. Thinner is usable only for gloss paint of some manufacturers. So, it is wise to check with the manufacturer. Thinner is more corrosive than turpentine. It can cause itchiness and burning sensation, if it comes into contact with the skin.

Metal Ornamental pieces fixed,
after re-painting.

In order to avoid the messy cleaning task after each painting, use a disposable brush or paint roller. Medium quality painting brush or roller is adequate for the job and discarded after application. This is an economical option.

Gate newly re-painted

Before painting or re-painting metal work, ensure that all rust and dirt are removed from the surface. The conventional way of removing rust is using a scrapper and sandpaper. Now, there is a chemical compound that can remove rust easily. This chemical is called “Compound EDE80”. It can be used in concentrated form or dilute with water.

Removing the rust with a scrapper.

Compound EDE80 is an industrial chemical compound used widely in the metal processing industries. DIY buff may encounter difficulty in sourcing this compound.

Apply the Compound EDE80 on the rusted part of the metal with a brush or a piece of rag. Let it sets in and react with the rust for a day. Thereafter, clean the surface to be painted with a damped cloth. Apply Oxide Anti-rust primer to the rusted areas.The surface must be dry and clean before re-painting.

The gloss paint should be diluted, to reduce the gummy feel on the brush or roller.

Tools and materials required:

The roller is detachable. Discard and replace after
each painting job.

1)A short handle paint roller (small).

2) Half a dozen roller refill

3) A pair of cotton gloves

4) A scrapper.

5) A small painting brush(the one use by artist)

6)Gloss paint (quantity depends on the areas to be painted)

7) A bottle of turpentine.

8) A bottle of thinner.

9)A large plastic sheet (10 ft X 10 ft) to cover the areas from paint drips

10) A stirrer.

1 11) One liter of Compound EDE 80.

Oxide primer applied on the rusted spot.

Paint the surface with the roller in a gently forward and backward flow or upward and downward direction to ensure a complete and smooth coating. Corners, coves and grooves can be painted and touch-up using an artist brush.

Dipping the ornamental metal into a can of paint.

The ornamental flower pieces on my grilles are detachable. For speedier and easier re-painting , these are removed from grilles, cleaned and dipped into the tin of paint. Let them dry in the sun and fix back a few days later. The paint required about five days to dry completely, for better adhesion to the metal.

Drying the ornamental metal pieces in the sun.

Painting Concrete Fence Wall

2012-03-14T02:54:00.004-07:00

Dull and faded wall with dirt stains

The hot and humid weather plus plenty of rain in Malaysia accelerated the wear and tear to the exterior wall of building, fencing wall and floor. Fine crack lines appear on the plastered concrete column and brick wall. Fungus growth and the accumulated dirt stain turned the walls dull and ugly.

Remove flakes and stains using a pressure jet.

This is the first time I repaint the fencing wall and column, after eight years. The thought of painting 165 feet by 5 feet of fencing wall scares me and deters me from doing this. I am also reluctant to engage a contractor. It costs too much. But after reading a motivational message from a friend, I was encouraged. Just set aside one to two hours a day for a specific task, many goals can be achieved. That spurs me to embark on this task. In order to avoid the hot sun, I spend one hour in the morning from seven to eight a.m. and one hour in the evening from five to six p.m. My wife and my son also joined in occasionally to help. The entire fencing wall was completely re-painted within a time frame of 16 days.

Stain on the column, below the crown.

The original substrate was treated with ICI Dulux sealer and Anti-fungus Weathershield paint. This fencing wall started to fade after seven years. There wasn’t any fungus growth but some dirt accumulated beneath the shoulder overhung areas of the wall.

It is difficult to find a good and diligent painter who can produce good and durable paintwork. Most painting contractors engage low skill Indonesian painters and use cheap and low quality paint. Unless one is very specific in the negotiation, most painting contractors deliver a shoddy job.

One side of the wall re-painted with three colours

Another side re-painted

For lasting exterior paintwork, the substrate surface must be clean and dry before re-painting. Clean the surface thoroughly with a high pressure water jet. Allow a few days for the surface to dry. Plaster crack lines with sealant or grouting cement.

I contacted ICI Dulux and Nippon Paint for some technical assistance before commencing on this task.

ICI Dulux Weathershield is a water-based emulsion paint. There are other equivalent paints, but I have not tried them. Re-painting the wall with emulsion paint does not require lots of skills. Some common sense must prevailed to prevent spillage, staining and dripping. There is nothing to worry about paint stain. Simply wash off with water and soap before it dries. Stain can also be easily removed with a piece of damped cloth.

The paint should be diluted to the preferred viscosity that is smooth and not gummy to the roller and does not drip. Add about 20% of water to the can, stir thoroughly and gently with a stirrer to get an even mixture before applying.

Pour a small portion of the paint into the painting tray, Dip the paint roller into the paint and run over the tray a few times, until the paint is evenly distributed and absorbed by the roller but without any dripping. Then, gently apply the paint on the surface to be painted. A painter’s pole can be attached to the paint roller for areas beyond the reach of arm.

No matter how experienced a painter is, dripping of the paint cannot be avoided. Always place a large piece of plastic sheet or woven fabric of any kind to cover the floor. For any other areas, such as grilles, ornamental pieces, not to be in contact with the paint roller, insulate them with paper and masking tape.

Tools and material required:-

1. Emulsion paint for exterior surface. (Paint for interior surface is different), Weathershield comes in 5 liter tin only. One liter of paint can cover 110 sq. feet (10 sq. meters) of substrate with two coats.

2. Paint roller (two sizes: Big and small)

3. Painting tray

4. Painter’s pole

5. Stirrer

6. A pair of cotton hand gloves

7. A large plastic sheet or other woven fabric

8. A scrapper

9. A ladder or a stool.

10. A ½ brush

11. Some old newspapers.

The tools required for painting job.

After each application, wash and dry the roller and tray with water thoroughly. No remnant of the paint should remain in the roller or tray. Otherwise, the roller and the tray will be rendered unusable once dried.

The ICI Dulux Weathershield of 5 liters cost RM115.00 (USD35.00) per can. A good paint roller cost RM5.00 (USD1.50) from the hardware shop. The painting tray is available at RM2.50 each. The price of painting brushes range between RM2.00 to RM3.50. The total cost of the materials used is less than RM500.00(USD152.00).

The painting contractor charge RM6,000.00 (USD1,818.00) for this job. Just see what you can save with DIY.

Three 5liter can of paint was used for the job.

The fence wall has three-colour combination

Replacing the Ball Float Valve of Your Water Tank

2012-02-12T23:39:00.000-08:00

Two common causes of water tank leakage are : 1) faulty ball float valve and 2) crack.

The water tank is constructed with either Polyethylene, GI mild steel or Stainless steel. Whatever the material used, the condition of the tank will deteriorate and crack will appear due to exposure to sun and rain. Water tank kept in an enclosed area will not be subjected to the hazard of the weather and will last much longer. But GI mild steel tank will leak even if it is installed in an enclosed place due to rust. This usually occurs after a life span of about seven years

The most common cause of water tank leakage is due to faulty ball float valve. The valve can malfunction due to various reasons. One common problem is small pebbles trapped at the valve washer. This can be easily resolved by pressing the ball float down to let the water pressure flush out the pebbles. Then push the ball float up to check if it shuts the water inflow. If not, the valve is faulty and need replacement. The other cause is worn out washer/stopper of the valve. This needs the replacement of the valve.

Another rare problem is the ball float cracked, resulted in water seeping into the ball and lost the ability to float.

The ball float valve works on the simple physic of water level pushing the ball that is attached to a lever that shuts the valve. When the water level rise, the ball is pushed upwards and shuts the valve. When the water level dropped, the ball is lowered and release the valve, allowing water to flow into the tank (see the diagram).

Diagram downloaded from Google and Valmatic.com,

Replacing the ball float valve can be done DIY, provided the water tank is sited at a place that is within easy to reach and has a place for you to stand and work on. This only involve unlocking and locking three nuts. One needs two pairs of pliers, sealing tape and pair of cotton gloves to do the job.

My water tank is located on the specially constructed roof top, where I can just walk up from a balcony. Not even a ladder is required.

Remember to turn off the incoming pipe before unlocking the nuts from the faulty valve.

This is a new valve

The two hexagon nuts at the inlet joint of the valve is to secure the valve to the water tank. One nut inside the tank and the other outside. The end of the inlet joint is fastened to the incoming water pipe with a locking nut at it’s end. Before locking the nuts, ensure the sealing tape is wrap round the thread of the joint to prevent leakage.

The ball float valve in the water tank

The ball float valve is readily available at all hardware shops and DIY stores. Depending on your incoming pipe size, the size must be the same. They come in ½ inch, ¾ inch, 1inch and 1 ¼ inch diameter. These are the common sizes used by Malaysian home.

Old valve was dismantled from the water tank.
The float ball is re-used.

The cost of the 1 inch ball valve(minus the ball float) is RM38.00 (USD11.50).

The ball float can be purchased separately at RM2.00 (USD0.60) each.

A roll of sealing tape is only RM0.60 USD0.18)

Total cost to replace the ball float valve (excluding tool cost) is RM38.60 (USD11.68). If one were to engage a plumber, the charges for materials and workmanship will be at least RM160.00 (USD48.50). If one is unfortunate to enlist an unscrupulous plumber, one may get cheated to replace the valve unnecessarily.

Old valve for post mortem

This whole valve replacement job took only two hours to complete.

This little washer/stopper is the usual problem creator.

It pays to DIY your home maintenance.

These are the only tools and material required to replace the ball float valve. You can try DIY.

Cleaning Domestic Water Storage Tank.

2012-01-09T06:42:00.000-08:00

Most houses will have a water storage tank installed either on the roof top or hiding inside the ceiling. The size of the water tank varies from house to house. The standard tank sizes in Malaysia are in the range of 900 litres to 3,000 litres.

The materials used in the construction of the tank also varies from stainless steel to galvanized iron (GI) and polytank.

This is a stainless steel water tank with fastened
secured lid.

How many house owners will inspect the water storage tank? Some owners never look at their water tank until there is a leakage or visibly contaminated water ran out from their tap. Some owners will inspect the water tank when the water from the tap smells strange or taste abnormal. A few exceptional owners will inspect the water regularly.

The water storage tank should be inspected regularly for dislodged tank cover. This may sound strange but it happens. Any opening invites creepy crawly creatures from insects to lizards and snails into the tank. Rats can occasionally drown in the water tank. For those water tanks with secured and fastened lid or closure, the tank should also be inspected. You will be surprised to find the kind of dirt accumulated in the water tank. This dirt could be from the main incoming source(mud) or pollutant(dust and other solid particles) entering through the overflow pipe or the ventilation vent(breathing vent).

The two ventilation vents on top of the tank

My water tank is a secured and fastened stainless steel tank. Yet, see the amount of dirt accumulated at the bottom of the tank. This is a combination of mud and dirt.

See the amount of dirt accumulated at the bottom of the tank, before the cleaning.

The tank should be emptied and washed regularly, preferably every six (6) months.

Using a broom with long pole to reach
the bottom of the tank. Leave some water inside
the tank and sweep gently.
The water will turn coffee brown colour after
stirring with broom.

For GI tank, there is another problem. The tank may looks perfect from the outside, but the rust can be up to half an inch thick inside the tank. The minute the tank is vibrated, the whole tank breaks up.

The water tank can be cleaned easily by using a soft brush or broom(use a new broom please) with long pole. The dirty water is drained via the outlet valve located at the bottom or near the base of the tank.

Drain the dirty water via the bottom outlet valve.
See the coffee brown colour water being discharged.

Rinse the tank thorough before refill the tank, with water from the main source via the normal ball float valve intake pipe.

See how a clean water storage tank should be.
Imagine you bathing and drinking the
contaminated water before the cleaning.
Go and inspect your own storage tank now.

Shellac & Varnish Wooden Door/Furniture.

2011-11-17T22:19:00.000-08:00

See the faded finishing, especially the
lower portion of the doors.

It is nice to have wooden furniture or doors painted with Shellac to maintain its natural wood grain finishing and enhance its aesthetic quality. But the upkeep of the Shellac surface can be problematic. Shellac is not resistant to water and UV ray. Prolonged exposure to water and UV ray can damage the Shellac surface finishing.

Close up view of the faded door finishing

My main door is made from Balau wood. Both the door frame and doors are solid Balau wood. The constant exposure to rain water and sunlight can damage the glossy finishing of the surface. This requires regular Shellacing and Varnishing every three years, to protect the wood from fading.

See the damage to the door frame.

Restoring the Shellac finishing of the door looks simple but required lots of skill and patience. Shellac is a solvent based resin and is quick dry. Therefore, attention to the surrounding heat and humidity level is crucial at the time of application. This will ensure a smooth and un-encumbered brushing. If the Shellac evaporated too fast, the brush will turn gummy and sticky. A gummy brush does not give you a smooth finishing. When this happened, dip the brush into some thinner /solvent .

Thinner and Shellac in bottle are readily
available in hardware shop.

A very thin layer of Shellac is applied for each coat, with three coatings preferred. Between each coat, the dried surface must be sandpapered in order to achieve a smooth finishing.

Use waterproof sandpaper to avoid excessive dust during sanding. Dip the sandpaper into water before using. Select a good quality Shellac brush with soft bristles that does not fall out easily or stick to the coating. Apply the Shellac slowing and gently. The brush stroke should preferably moves in one direction only.

Materials required are:-

1. One bottle of Shellac (RM4.50, USD1.40)

2. One bottle of solvent/thinner. RM3.50, USD1.10)

3. One Shellac brush. RM8.50. USD2.65)

4. Three sheets of waterproof fine sand paper. (RM0.80, USD0.25/sheet)

5. One bottle of Varnish (optional)(RM4.50. USD1.40)

6. One pair of cotton hand glove.RM1.20, USD0.38)

7. A small container to dilute the Shellac to the required viscosity and holding the brush.

8. One roll of masking tape (to insulate non wood area from the brush during painting.)(RM2.50 USD0.80)

Apply Shellac gently and moves the brush
in one direction only.

Do not do Shellacing with the fan on or during windy weather. You should also avoid extremely hot and dry weather during coating.

This job took 3 weeks to complete with an average of two hours per day (42 manhours).

Making your own Garbage Bag Holder.

2011-10-05T23:49:00.000-07:00

Completed stand c/w garbage bag

This idea popped up in my mind while I was clearing my garden of dried leaves and cut grass. Gathering those dried leaves and grass into a garbage bag is quite a hassle. How to handle a rack, a dust pan and a soft garbage bag at the same time? Either I get a helper to hold the garbage bag while I rack the leaves and grass into the dust pan or I get a large container to hold the bag. Either way is cumbersome.

Materials and tool required

I made a garbage bag holder using the left over PVC pipe from maintenance job. The large size garbage bag is 75cm X 90cm (2 ½ ft X 3 ft). The stand should have a top frame to hold the bag. It should be 14 inches X 14 inches by 2 ft height. The bottom frame preferably be 16 inches by 16 inches.

I bought eight pieces of elbow and eight pieces of T-joint plus one can of PVC pipe glue to complete the job. Cut the PVC pipe into four pieces of two feet long, eight pieces of six inches long and eight pieces of seven inches long. The elbow and T-joint will add two inches to each side of the perimeter of the frame.

PVC pipe cut to the required lenght

Firstly, fix up the pieces to get the alignment correct without using PVC glue . The glue is quick dry and cannot be disconnected once applied on. Fix the two square frame on a flat surface to get the elbow and T-joint aligment correct. Finally, join the two square frame with four vertical pipes of 2 feet each..

PVC Elbow

If the elbow alignment is correct, the whole stand would be in balance and sturdy. Otherwise, it will be wobbling.

To use, just fix the garbage onto the top frame and secure it by large paper clips.

PVC T-Joint

The total cost of materials are as follow:-

1. One piece ½” dia PVC pipe (20feet cost RM9.50) RM0.00 (from left over)

2. Eight pieces of PVC elbows @ RM0.50 each cost RM4.00

3. Eight pieces of PVC T-joints @RM0.70 each cost RM5.60

4. One can of PVC glue @ RM2.40

5. Two piece of paper clips @RM0.80 each cost RM1.60

Total Cost for the stand is RM13.60 (USD4.30)

PVC Glue

Completed Stand without the Garbage bag

Maintaining & Coating Concrete Slab Roof.

2011-09-15T22:50:00.000-07:00

What is the best type of roof for Malaysian houses? There is No answer to this question. Every type of roofing material has its advantages and disadvantages.

Untreated slab with cracks and chipped surface.

The most commonly used roofing is the concrete roof tile. Some use clay tile, metal roofing sheet or aluminium roofing sheet. There are also houses having flat concrete slab roof. This type of roof is more visible in Europe and USA than in Malaysia.

My house used a combination of concrete slab roof and glazed clay tiles. The Architect designed and proposed the concrete slab roof due to construction issues. This portion of the roof is waterproof and does not leak even during extreme thunderstorm.

Mixing cement with white clay(lime) and sand for plastering

The tropical weather of Malaysia is unkind to concrete roof. The sudden change in temperature from very hot sun to heavy rain caused fine cracks and chipping of the plastered surface of the concrete slab. If the cracks and surface chippings are not patch regularly, the waterproof coating will wear off and eventually leakage will appear.

Re-plastered surface

In order to avoid the problem of regular patching, I use a coating of polymer sealant. This material can grout the cracks and level the chipped off surface.

This is my biggest DIY project spreading over a period of nine months. I worked in stages and not more than three (3) hours per day.

Partly cleaned slab

First, I water jet the floor slab and the beams to remove dirt and fungus. Then, re-plaster the cracks and the worn out surface with a mixture of cement, white clay (lime) and fine sand. Let the re-plastering cure and set in for about a month. Some plaster may not stick well and peeled off. I re-do the peeled off part until the surface is completely even.

Clean the slab with pressure water jet

The surface must be totally clean and dry before applying the polymer sealant. The re-plastered surface is water jet again and allow to dry for a couple of days.

The “Pentens” polymer sealant can be applied on the surface by using a paint roller or a big broom with soft bristle. This is a water-based sealant. If the compound is too thick, add a bit of water but not more than 20% by content, for easier application.

Pantens Coating Compound. This 20kg pail cost RM250.00.

Coating done in stages
This coated surface is easy to clean with a wet mop. This compound has low absorbent for heat and lower the indoor temperature. Do not use any sharp object or metal on the surface. This is like Epoxy coating. It can scratch the coating easily.

One third of the slab completed with coating

Apply two coats of the sealant with three-hour interval. Do not step on the coated surface, even if you feel it is dry. The sealant takes about twenty four hours to adhere firmly to the concrete surface. Always leave some space, a walking lane, for you to walk while applying the coating without stepping on it. The space is also required for applying the second coating. The walking lane can be coated later, preferably after three days, by then you can walk on the already coated surface.

The entire concrete slab is coated.

The tools required are:-

Some of the tools required

A pail for water, a pair of cotton gloves, a scrapper, a paint roller, a paint mixing tray, a soft bristle broom, two paint brushes, a big picnic umbrella and a pressure water cleaner.

30 kg of Pentens sealant was used to coat the entire surface. Total cost of the sealant is RM375.00(USD125.00)

Fish Pond Apron

2011-08-14T22:19:00.000-07:00

This is a nice looking Balinese design Koi fish pond, with a pebble apron. And this picture will be good for only about six months.

Thereafter, the grass and weeds will invade the apron and the side of the pond.

This Koi fish pond was designed and built by an Indonesia Koi pond expert. Everything was in a perfect condition, until the weeds and grass appeared among the pebbles. My initial solution was just regular weeding. The grass and weed were too pervasive and invaded the gaps between the tiles of the pond. They were perpetual nuisance. A permanent solution is required.

I decided to build a concrete slab apron, with pebbles spread on top of it, in order to retain the feature. A contractor’s quote for the job is RM2,000.00 (USD666.00) with material and labour supplied. I pondered over the quotation for a couple of weeks, before deciding to go DIY.

It will be a tough job to complete the apron at one go and single-handedly. This will take at the least three full day of 8 manhours per day.

I wanted to do this at my own leisure time and enjoy the DIY.

I did not set a target completion date and without a fixed work schedule. If the weather is kind to me, I will work on that day and not more than 3 manhours per day so as not to exhaust myself.

I decided to partition the apron into six blocks and make one block at a time.

Material required are sand, cement, thick cardboard, 1"X2” wood and steel bar. The steel bars are used to re-enforce the concrete slabs and prevent cracks. The thick cardboard and wood are for formwork.

Tools required are wheel barrow, spade, cement trowel and a large picnic umbrella for shade.

One and a half bag of cement (75kg) and one excavator bucket load of sand (local hardware shop sell sand by excavator bucket load) is required. Total cost is RM135.00(USD45.00), excluding the tools.

The first task is to remove all the pebbles. Then, remove the invasive roots of the grass thriving underneath the pebbles. This is followed by the removal of top soil.

Once the ground preparation is completed, lay the formwork for the concrete slab.

Prepare the cement mix with 1:1 cement/ sand ratio and mix with water thoroughly. The amount of water will depends on the condition of the sand (dry or wet) and the required viscosity of the mix. There is no formula for the amount water.

The cement mix is pour into the formwork with two parallel steel bars place in the centre between the bottom and top surface of the slab. Vibrate and level the cement mix with a cement trowel. Vibration is to compact the cement mix and prevent honey comb formation inside the concrete slab.

Let the cement mix to cure for at least 8 hours before stepping on it. If the weather is too hot, sprinkle some water on the semi-hardened surface. Heat is generated during curing process. This is to cool down and slow the expansion of the slab, in order to prevent cracks. Do not use the jet or direct tap water. The water pressure may damage the surface.

Repair Electric Kettle.

2011-07-14T02:19:00.000-07:00

Collection of Kettles

I have a collection of kettles. Jug kettle, electric kettle and conventional stove kettle. This is not my hobby. I accumulated that many kettles because I refused to discard them after they failed.

Electric Kettles and Jug Kettle

A conventional stove kettle is kept in my house for emergency purposes, in the event of a power failure. The failed electric kettles were kept in the kitchen cabinet, pending a solution.

I considered the failed kettle too good to dispose off as scrap metal. It is also too expensive to repair. The repair cost is not justifiable.

The standard repair cost (Panasonic, Sanyo or Faber) is about RM120.00 (USD40.00).

Heating element RM30.00

Thermostat RM20.00

Labour charges RM70.00

----------------

Total RM120.00

=========

Thermostat on the Left and Heating element on the Right

This is equivalent to the price of a new electric kettle.

The cheaper brands of kettles, made in Malaysia or China cost only about RM90.00(USD30.00)

Why bother to repair the kettle when the new one cost less than the cost of repair? Think of the mother Earth, think re-cycling.

The electric kettle comprises six components i.e. the body, the cover, the handle, the heating element, the thermostat and the silicon or rubber seal between the thermostat and the heating element. The components that usually failed are either the heating element or the thermostat or both.

With DIY skills, repairing an electric kettle is only a screw driver job of 30minutes.

Heating element positioned inside the kettle

I just discovered an electrical components and parts shop in Jalan Pasar, Kuala Lumpur that sells the kettle heating element and the thermostat. The price of these two components are affordable and justifiable to repair the kettle.These two components are standard sizes and fitted most brands of electric kettles.

The heating element cost RM20.00(USD6.30) and the thermostat cost RM12.00(USD4.00).

Secure the Thermostat to the heating element with 3 screws.

I got my old Panasonic kettle working for only RM32.00(USD10.80)

The old kettle bodies are more sturdy. The new kettle in the market today has a thinner steel sheet for the body, slimmer handle and poor quality heating element & thermostat. The Standard life span of new kettle is approximately three years only, as compared to my old faithfully kettle lasting more than ten years..

Old Kettle repaired @ the cost of RM32.00.

Assembling and Installing Curtain Rail

2011-03-05T21:09:00.000-08:00

Completely assembled curtain rail.

A standard double storey link or terrace house usually comes with five (5) windows and one sliding main door plus one side door. This exclude the small toilet windows. For the 3-room apartment, there are three standard windows plus one large window at the lounge.

Blank curtain rail cut to the required length

The standard window size is four feet by four feet ( 4 X 4). The master bedroom window is slightly bigger, i.e. six feet by four feet ( 6 X 4). The sliding glass door at the lounge is usually ten feet by seven feet (10 X 7)

The Malaysia’s standard height of window is four (4) feet and the standard height of door is seven (7) feet.

Cross section view of blank curtain rail

End cap

Most Malaysian house owners prefer to cover the window and sliding door with curtain. Blinds are common in offices and commercial building but rarely used for home.

The most common type of curtain rail is the hollow channel aluminium curtain rail.

To get a contractor to supply and fix the curtain rail for the standard double storey house will cost approximately RM420.00 (USD135.00). But if you also purchase the curtain from the same supplier, you may get a discount for the curtain rail of 10 to 20 %.

Curtain rail rollers

Assembling and installing the curtain rail DIY cost only a fraction of the price charged by the contractor or curtain supplier.

Inserting rollers into the curtain rail

The curtain rail and all the components, such as the roller, end cap and bracket, are available at all hardware shop and DIY stores. The hardware shop will cut the curtain rail according to your requirement.

The price of the curtain rail ranging between RM1.20 per foot run to RM2.00 per foot run.. The price of the rail varies with the quality and thickness.

Closing and locking the end of the rail with
End cap.

The components cost and components used are quite standard too. End cap cost RM0.40 each, roller is RM0.10 each and the bracket is selling at RM0.50 each.

Completed curtain rail ready for installation.

You must provide six inches extra curtain rail length for each window. For example if the window is four feet wide, the rail must be four and a half feet long.

Mark the position of the bracket (3 inches above)
before drilling.

For every foot run of curtain rail, three rollers are required. You may add 10% more to the total number of roller, as spare. A bracket is recommended for every three-foot run of rail. A minimum of two brackets are required for each curtain rail.

To assemble the curtain rail, secure one end of the curtain rail with an end cap, with the lock screw tightened. Insert the required number of rollers into the groove of the rail, through the opposite end.. Finally, close the opposite end of the rail with another end cap and secured it with the screw. It is that simple.

To install the curtain rail, a leveller, and electric drill, measuring tape and wall plugs & screws are required.

Level and align the rail position before
fixing the brackets.

Drill to fix the plug and the bracket

Curtain rail secured to the bracket

The curtain rail is installed three inches above the top edge of the window. First, mark the position to fix the brackets. Ensure that all the brackets position are in line and levelled. Then, drill the hole on the wall to lay the plug and secure the bracket with the screws. Finally, fix and hang the curtain rail to the bracket. There is only a screw and a clip to secure and lock the rail to the bracket. This is the most important part of the installation. If the rail is not secured properly to the bracket, the whole curtain and the rail can collapse.

Total cost of the job by DIY is only RM66.50 (USD21.50) as compared with the contractor’s cost of RM420.00 (USD135.00). Just look at the amount you can save.

It is worthwhile to be a handyman and practise DIY.

The curtain is ready for hanging the curtain.

Another rail ready for hanging curtain.

Replacing a piece of Dislodged ceramic floor tile.

2011-02-09T23:28:00.000-08:00

This triangular piece of floor tile was broken and dislodged from the floor

Use an A4 paper to mark and cut a template

Mark the shape of the piece of tile
to cut and replace.

One piece of ceramic tile dislodged from the floor. What is your immediate reaction? Call your “friendly” contractor to fix it. Sounds simple for this simple job. Right? But in reality it is very tough. You may have to call your contractor umpteen times and he still does not show up. Each time his PR response is “ I will call you a day before I come”. The expected visit from him is like waiting to win a lottery. And if he finally comes, his first suggestion will be “Change all the tiles ah h?” If your response is “one only” He would hesitate and sounds very disappointed. “One only ah h! How much to charge you for this one?” he asked. If the dislodged tile is broken, there will be more problems.

Cut the paper to form the template.

If the contractor is willing to do the small job, the fact remains that he can never get back the same tile, in term of colour and tone. Tile manufacturers can never produce the tile of the same colour and shade for every batch. Even if one goes back to the same manufacturer with the same product code, one can never get a piece of replacement tile of same colour shade. This is the fact one must accept.

Check the template fitting

The contractor has to make a few trips. First trip is to examine the damage and to assess the availability of that particular piece of tile. On the next trip, he has to run to a few shops to source for the tile. If he is lucky, his third trip is to bring his worker to do the job.

Use the template to mark on the tile for cutting.

So, how much do you think he should charge you for that miserable piece of tile replacement?

For that reason, most contractors are reluctant to do tile replacement job, unless one willing to change the entire floor tiles. Moreover, there are many fussy housewives who do not understand and accept this fact. They will complain and argue with the contractor over the different colour tone and shade.

The replacement tile with marking ready for cutting

A DIY buff will keep all the left over materials from construction or repair jobs. I stored them in the water gutter of the roof. After so many years, I appreciated my own effort. I have the same tile of the original colour tone/shade to replace the dislodged and broken piece.

Replacing the dislodged tile by DIY can be done quite easily provided you have the right tools and correct cement mixture.

Tile cutting tool and goggle(for eye protection)

I borrowed a tile-cutting tool from my brother.

Firstly, I marked the shape of the tile to replace, using a piece of A4 paper to cut a template. With the paper template, the cutting line is mark on the tile, to facilitate the precise cutting requirement.

Use a masonry chisel or drill to remove
the old cement plaster.

Next, I remove the old cement plaster from the floor where the tile was dislodged with a masonry (concrete) chisel. Then, I wash and drain out the debris

After Chiseling and wash up

Cut the tile on ground with grass
to avoid damage tot he cutting disc.

Finally, mix 3/4 portion of cement with 1/4 portion of white lime and a small amount of water. Mix them thoroughly until a sticky paste is achieved. Apply the mixture on the tile and on the floor. Ensure the required amount of cement mixture is applied to achieve the levelling with the surrounding tiles. The use of a levelling tool, if necessary to check this. Use a small piece of wood to do the levelling.

Never use a hammer. You may break the tile.

Mixing the cement into a sticky paste

See the completed job. This is done in two hours. Let the cement mixture to cure and dry for 24 hours before stepping on the replaced tile. Keep the tile cool and moist during the curing process by sprinkling some water over the replaced tile after 4 hours.

The replaced tile is similar to
the surrounding old tiles.
The edge mosaic tiles are also replaced.

Motion Sensor Light

2010-12-28T22:44:00.000-08:00

This sensor adaptor from " AVA" Taiwan, is fixed to a table lamp
This cost RM55.00. Just take out the bulb and fix this adaptor into the bulb
holder. Then, fix the bulb on top of the adaptor.

Do you ever have a strange notion in the midst of sleeping? A state of mind that is vague and uncertain of oneself. One is not sure if one is dreaming or in a semi conscious state or is fully awake. I have this experience whenever I have the urge of easing myself in the middle of the night. Yet, I wasn’t sure if I am in a sub-conscious state of mind, dreaming or actually awake. My hand moves by reflex action to locate the light switch beside the bed. In the darkness, I occasionally push down the alarm clock and the glass ornaments on the side table of the bed.

Close up of the sensor. The red blinking light
indicates motion is detected.

That was history. I have overcame the problem with the PIR Sensor (Passive Infra-Red Motion Sensor) way back in 1988 I bought the first PIR sensor light for RM550 ringgits. This was a proud Malaysian invention by two engineers from Sitiawan.

This is my first Motion Sensor table lamp
purchased in 1988 for RM550.00.
This motion sensor was invented by two Malaysians.
The first generation motion sensor lamp by NOVAL.

Since then, I cannot go on without the PIR sensor light.

This is the second generation sensor lamp by
Noval (Malaysian Invention)

Now, my house is equipped with PIR sensor light in every rooms and at every corners of the house.. I don’t have to grope in the darkness anymore.. I just simply walk around the house at night and the light switch on automatically and switch off by itself after the set timing (2 to 15 minutes) expires.

This is a sensor adaptor mounted on a table lamp
This is "AVA" brand sensor made in Taiwan
The cost is RM55.00

Most PIR motion sensors are also equipped with a photo sensor. The photo sensor can be set to the required degree of brightness or darkness (called LUX) to activate the motion sensor. If one set the LUX to absolute darkness, the motion sensor will only activate and switch on the light when the surrounding is in total darkness and motion is detected.

There is also a built-in timer to set the duration of on/off lighting The motion sensor will switch off the light after the set duration expires, unless further motion is detected.

This "Plug & Play" sensor adaptor fits any standard E27
screw-type bulb holder

Some PIR Motion sensor light are sold in ‘Plug and Play” package. They come in the form of table lamp, stand lamp, wall light and ceiling light. Just plug into a 3-pin socket or connect to AC wire (Live and Nuetral) to operate. One can also purchase the PIR motion sensor gadget separately and connect to the exiting light fixtures.

The PIR motion sensor light are available at most electrical lighting outlets. The price of this gadget has reduced from RM550 in 1988 to below RM50.00 (made in China) now.

This cost only RM39.00. China-made "Nesly"
wall sensor light.
Real value for money. I put this in my kitchen.

The more advance PIR sensor gadget in USA and EU has a built-in thermal sensor. This more advanced gadget can detect the presence of warm-blooded mammal. This is used to control lighting, heater and air-conditioner in home and office. As long as body heat is detected, the sensor will switch on the appliances or fixtures connected to the sensor. And of course, this come with a price.

This is a PIR motion sensor. This can be connected to
any existing light fixture. I fixed this onto one
of my ceiling light in my AV room.
Cost only RM39.00 but DIY to
connect two pairs of wires (L/N)

This gadget is suitable for indoor use only.
The cost ranging from RM39.00 to RM90.00
depending on the brand, PDL, MK, Philips or China made.

What you can see here are all indoor sensor lights.

See how I fixed the motion sensor to my existing ceiling light.

This is a weather proof outdoor sensor at the car porch

For outdoor use, the sensor light must be weather-proof. I have outdoor sensor lights at every corner of the house. The light will switch on automatically as I walk in the garden at night and swithc off by itself after the set duration expires.

Another outdoor sensor.

SWITCH/ 3-PIN SOCKET PROTECTOR

2010-09-12T06:34:00.000-07:00

Outdoor water-proof switches

Outdoor water-proof 3-pin socket

Electrical switches and power sockets for outdoor use have to be weather-proof, particularly against natural elements of water and heat. These special switches and sockets cost about RM180.00 each compared to the ordinary ones ranging from RM3.50 to RM6.50.

In addition to the weather-proof switches and power sockets for the garden and fish pond, there are a few power sockets on the exterior wall of the building. Although shaded from direct sunlight and rain, they are exposed to rain splashing down on them during thunderstorms. Water then seeps into the socket and over time oxidize the copper element inside, disabling the electrical contact point.

Outdoor switches for pond fountain pump and lighting.

Switch Protector with the 3-pin socket

A new and cheap gadget is now available. This PVC switch/ 3-Pin socket protector comes in two designs. One is in opaque white and the other comes with transparent cover. The price ranges between RM5.00 to RM13.00, depending on the quality of the PVC material and the brand.

Spoilt 3-pin Socket.
See the fungus growing on the edges.

To install the switch/socket protector, one needs to unscrew the socket from the wall. For safety reasons, the power supply should be isolated or completely switched off.

Isolate the electrical power at the MCB
switch board.

Slip the switch protector’s base plate onto the switch and secure the switch with a screw that is ¼ inch longer than the original screw. This is due to the base plate thickness and the soft pad linning . The longer screw is available from any DIY or hardware shop. It costs about 5 to 8 sen each.

No disconnecting of wires is required to install the switch/socket protector.

See below, the socket protector installed with the 3-pin socket sitting neatly inside.

The flip cover should be closed when the socket is not in use, to prevent water from seeping in.

The spoilt 3-pin socket was replaced with this new socket,
with the socket protecter fitted.

Harvest Rain Water for cleaning and garden use

2010-09-05T04:52:00.000-07:00

There was a huge stack of used plastic containers at the back of my office building. They were used for storing chemicals for the factory use. On closer examination, I discovered the containers were well protected with galvanized iron (GI) cages and pallets.

Each container is equipped with an outlet stop valve and top filling port with a 5-inch diameter cap. The manufacturer of the container is Schutz Container System Incorporated, Lawrenceville,

Georgia

USA

. I noticed a label – RECYCLABLE CONTAINER.

Existing rain water downpipe

Wow! It’s a dream come true! I have been scouting around for some time for these! What a waste if I do not recycle them. With the help of my colleagues, I brought the container home and connected it to the rain water downpipe.

nTo complete the pipe connection, five pieces of elbow, one T-joint, 10 feet of 4-inch diameter PVC pipe is required. Since there is no high pressure from the rain water, it is not necessary to seal or glue the joints.

At the outlet valve, a pipe reducer from 2 ¾ inch to ½ inch is connected to facilitate tap fitting and enable the usage of standard garden hose.

Downpipe cut for joining to the
storage tank port

The total cost of the connection fitting is RM76.00(USD25.00). With this rainwater harvested and collected, I can save RM30.00(USD9.00) per month on my water bill.

Two inlet pipes connected to the
top filling port holes

Completed connection to downpipe.

Two storage tanks assembled and connected.

Grease the elbow for easy joinning

Outlet valve before fixing the tap connection

Storage tank with outlet tap fitted.

Modify and Repair Ceiling Exhaust Fan.

2010-07-25T18:23:00.000-07:00

One afternoon, my maid came running to me and said “Tuan, itu kipas siling dalam bilik jatuh!” (Sir, the ceiling fan in the room fell). Instantly, I knew she was referring to the ceiling exhaust fan. I ran up to the room and found the ceiling exhaust fan cover dangling.

I have many fans in the house but only one is the conventional ceiling fan whereas the rest are exhaust fans. An exhaust fan is more effective in ventilating the room.

Most exhaust fans have a cover secured by two pieces of tension springs anchored to the cover plate with a small metal clip and screw. It is designed in such a manner to facilitate easy removal of the cover for regular cleaning as well as cleaning the fan blade and the housing. However, there is one design flaw; the screw and grove are too short and the material too brittle to support the weight of the cover, resulting in the force of pulling, damaging it. The grove that held the screw cracked and then broke off.

How to fix this? If you call the fan distributor or manufacturer, they will not be able to provide any solution other than replacing the cover. The cover itself cost more than 1/3 the price of a new fan. Using an industrial glue or a melted glue with a glue gun can provide a temporary solution. Unfortunately, it will give way after a short period of time.

The best solution, I have discovered, is to modify the way the tension clips are anchored on to the cover. Drill a hole through the screw grove and use a similar diameter size bolt and nut to secure the tension clip. The required size bolt and nut are easily available from the DIY or your neighborhood hardware shop. I have a big collection of screws, bolts and nuts of different sizes and shapes in my tool box.

After the modification, this is how my exhaust fan cover looks. It is as aesthetic as the original cover. Nobody will notice the alteration done to the cover. It is not conspicuous. Can you see the modification done?

Repairing & Servicing Fan

2010-06-13T00:22:00.000-07:00

Don't throw out your fan if it suddenly stops without any burnt smell.

I have an i-stand fan that I have used for more than ten years. One day it suddenly stopped turning, while still switch on.

I was contemplating to cannabalise the fan for parts, which can be salvaged for other repair jobs. I have dismantled all removable components of the fan.

After brushing away the dust in the motor, I discovered there wasn’t any burnt mark on the motor coil.

The fan is a very simple electrical appliance. The heart of the fan is only the motor with a capacitor. If the motor is not burnt, then the whole fan can be serviced and repaired. Either the carbon bush is worn out, the wiring is broken or disconnected or the spindle has jammed due to dust and dried grease. I sent the motor to my colleague, who is a qualified chargeman, for checking. He tested and confirmed that the motor is not burnt. He helped me to clean and grease the motor.

I re-installed all the components to the stand and now I have a fan that is working perfectly.

Most people would have discarded the fan as it is not justifiable to repair. The repairman would easily charge RM90.00 (USD28.00). That is RM60.00 (USD19.00) for transport and RM30.00 (USD9.00) for service charges. A new 16” stand fan costs only RM130.00(USD40.00). My own repair cost threshold for any appliances is below 30% of the cost of the new appliance of equivalent specifications.

If you are a DIY buff, you can repair at your own leisure hours, without costing a cent.

WARNING!!! For safety reason, always switch off the power and disconnect the power supply cord before dismantling any electric appliances.

Modifying Light Fixtures.

2010-03-28T07:24:00.000-07:00

I like things unique and exotic. “Visibility and standing out amongst the rest” is being practised by many to get a sense of satisfaction and contentment. Houses in the upmarket areas have unique facades. They have lots of rare designs and fixtures in them.

I have the privilege of visiting some of these exclusive houses. It gives me a sense of euphoria when I am inside the house.

I cannot afford exotic cars or houses but I have some exotic light fittings in my house.

The manufacturer of these exotic lightings only produced a batch and there is no re-run. Breaking any of the components is like breaking the whole light fittings. There is no spare part. Cleaning is another problem. The parts, some in fragile glass sticks and moulded glass panes, have to be removed piece by piece to clean. The bulbs and the fluorescent tubes used in these light fittings are also non-standard type.

One of the fluorescent tubes in my kitchen blew out recently. I dismantled the tube and took it to numerous lighting and electrical shops in town. Unfortunately, none of the shops that I visited has the fluorescent tube. It was an uncommon and non-standard tube.

I have two options. One is to discard the whole light fitting and buy a new one. That would be costly. The light fitting comes in a pair. So that means discarding two units.

Being a DIY buff, I chose the second option to modify the light fitting.

I changed the fluorescent tube holder from the 4-pin to a standard 2-pin type and replaced the choke (ballast) as well.

The 2-pin fluorescent tube holder cost RM4.50 (USD1.35) each while the standard fluorescent cost RM9.90 (USD3.00) each. With this modification, I need not worry about replacing any blown-out fluorescent tubes again.

The only tools required for the job are test pen, screw driver, wire stripper/cutter and a ladder.

Replacing Kitchen Counter-top Water Filter

2010-03-14T05:38:00.000-07:00

I used a stand-alone counter-top water filter that was easily connected to the water tap (see the picture). This type of water filter is available at any supermarket or hypermarket. Anybody can fix this with a screw driver.

The disadvantage of this type of water filter is the high maintenance cost. The filter cartridge cost RM80.00 (USD24.00) each and last about six months only. Another problem with this type of filter is the adapter for connecting the filter to the tap. Water frequently leaked from the adapter. Once the filter cartridge is clogged, water will sprout from the adapter. The original adapter from the manufacturer is very expensive. It cost RM60.00 (USD18.88), whereas the common adaptor from the hardware shop cost RM15.00. (USD4.50) but this will not indicate if the cartridge is clogged. Moreover, the filter cartridge is not serviceable. Once clogged, it must be replaced. The filter housing is also bulky and occupied the limited space at the sink counter.

In order to overcome the high maintenance cost and the leakage problem, I have decided to replace it with a stainless steel ceramic cartridge filter. This type of water filter is slim and aesthetic for the kitchen. It cost RM128.00, (USD18.00) for the standard wall mounted type. Because I wanted a counter-top mounting(sitting on top of the kitchen counter), I have to add in a brass counter-top tap and an adapter to change the mounting. Accessories are available at the bathroom & kitchen fitting shop for you to modify whatever fittings you so choose.

Unless you are a handyman, you may required a plumber to fix this. You can DIY with just two pieces of wrench and a roll of sealing tape. I have added a stop valve under the counter-top.

This is to enable any repair work to the counter-top filter without shutting down the water supply to the entire kitchen. Just disconnect the flexi-hose and fix the stop valve with a wrench.

Then, re-connect the flexi-hose to the filter housing unit. Ensure that the filter housing unit is properly anchored on the counter-top before connecting the flexi-hose. Connect the ceramic filter cartridge to the housing cap, insert the filter cartridge into the housing and close it securely.

This is a fairly simple job but can turn complicated if the joints are not sealed properly. There should not be even a single drop of water dripping from any joints.

See my new filter on the left and compare this with the old filter on the right.

De-Clogging the wash basin/kitchen sink.

2010-01-24T03:06:00.000-08:00

“The wash basin waste water is not flowing out. Please call the plumber!” This is a common exclamation you will hear whenever a wash basin or kitchen sink is clogged.

No worry. You do not need a plumber nor any special tool to de-clog it.

Under every wash basin or kitchen sink, there is an L-shape outlet pipe with a bottle-like contraption at the elbow. This is called the bottle trap. The function of this device is to prevent cockroaches and other creepy crawlies from entering the wash room or kitchen through the outlet pipe.

Besides preventing insects from entering, this bottle trap is also a catchment for sediments and hairs. Hairs and solid particles are the biggest culprits that caused clogging of the sink and wash basin.

To de-clog, just unscrew the bottle trap with your bare hands and remove the sediments and hair. Wash the bottle trap thoroughly and screw it back. It’s as simple as that.

However, this simple de-clogging technique can become complicated if any of the O-ring rubber seal is damaged. When this happens, the whole set of bottle trap should be replaced.

Recently I inadvertently damaged the O-ring rubber seal while removing the sediments and hairs in the bottle trap. It was a chrome bottle trap and cost RM39.00 (USD11.00). This chrome-type bottle trap is slimmer and is more aesthetic but clogs easily. It was rusty on the inside and sediments and hairs got trapped faster.

So, I decided to change to the PVC type which costs only RM4.50 (USD1.30). However, I could only find a white colour PVC bottle trap which does not match well with my stainless wash basin.

To overcome this, I bought a can of silver colour spray paint costing RM7.80 (USD2.30)). The final result is an aesthetic looking PVC bottle trap that looks like aluminium and the total cost is only RM12.30 (USD3.60) as compared to the chrome version costing RM39.00 (USD11.50). Furthermore, no tools were used to fix the PVC bottle trap. Only one roll of white sealing tape (RM0.50/USD0.15) was required to seal the threaded joints.

Re-assemble the bottle trap and putting the O-ring in correct position.

Re fix the bottle trap to the basin.
See for yourselves. My new PVC bottle trap on the right and the same set re-sprayed with silver paint below.

Completed job with the new PVCbottle trap. Q.E.D.