Job Stability

Lenders like to approve individuals who have held the same job for at least two years if not longer. Jumping from job to job or having holes in your job history will require explanation and is not advantageous in the eyes of a lender.

Owning a Business

If you own a business you must provide a solid history of the success of your business for a two year period. To do this you must either obtain a letter from your accountant that clearly states that you have been in business for a period of two years or else you must be able to show proof of a business license that will identify when your business got its start.

Two Year History

If you do not have a two year job history or have not been in business for two years then you can still apply for a mortgage. If you qualify in the other categories then you are not likely to run into a problem with being approved. For those who fail to meet the two year criteria there are what is known as “No Doc” loans. If you apply for one of these types of loans, your job history does not have to be disclosed or verified. The down side however is that you will pay a higher interest rate on the mortgage.

Income

The two year rule applies with income as it does with job history. The lender will need to see two years worth of W-2 forms as well as your current pay stubs. If you own a business, the lender will take a two year average of the money you have earned based on what shows on the last line of your tax return after everything else has been written off. If you earn a commission income you must be able to account for a two year history and from that the lender will take an average. If your monthly debts equal 41% or less of your gross monthly income then you should be approved for a mortgage.

Down Payment

The traditional amount required for a mortgage is 20% which will put you in good standing with the lender and help you get the best interest rates possible. However putting 5% or 10% down is still something a lender will be pleased to see.

Reserves

Reserves are money that remains in your bank account after you have paid all of your closing costs. Having one month of reserves looks well to a lender and that includes enough money to cover one mortgage payment, your property insurance and all applicable taxes. The reserves you need are dependent upon the type of mortgage you are applying for. As a general rule, having two to six months worth of reserves is considered desirable.

Credit History

Your credit history plays a significant role in whether or not you will be approved for a mortgage and well as what terms will be set down. It is your “fico” score that will be closely scrutinized by the lender and will weigh heavily into the decision of whether to approve your application or not.

Tags: mortgage | lender | credit | home | realty

The secured credit card is basically a credit card for individuals with poor credit (such as those who have been discharged from bankruptcy); or those who have a lower income. This type of credit card is one in which you put down your own money as collateral. You may then use the card and borrow in this manner until a time at which the credit card company is willing to consider extending you credit by way of an unsecured credit card. This will happen once you have proven that you can use credit responsibly and can pay your bills on time every month.

In most cases, the limit on a secured credit card is low, in the range of $500 to $1000. This is a small enough amount that the person who is attempting to rebuild their credit should not run into any financial problems. Most companies are willing to consider a responsible credit card holder for an unsecured card after they have been with the company for anywhere from one to two years. The request will be considered on a case-by-case basis. Once you feel you have proven yourself with responsible credit card use, do not be afraid to approach the company about switching to an unsecured credit card.

There are a number of companies that issue secured credit cards but it is important that you look for one that does not charge an application fee. Most have an annual fee as this is a standard practice, but make sure you compare the fees from company to company before you make a final decision.

Another important point of note is that before you apply to any particular credit card company, find out if they make it a habit to report their credit information to all three credit reporting agencies. After all this is a primary benefit that you should take full advantage of.

Tags: credit card | secured credit card | debt | apr | loan

The first thing a budget can help with is figuring where all the money is going. It may surprise some families to realize that they are now making an additional car payment in the form of gas costs just to make it to work. If they aren’t keeping track of the grocery or the gas bill, they won’t be able to see where the biggest savings might come from. They can’t make decisions based on actual numbers and instead might opt for feel good economics instead of some needed hard choices.

Once a budget is drawn up, people know where modifying behavior will make the most financial sense. Maybe carpooling with your spouse and eliminating one car is the way to go to help you meet your expenses during times of high inflation. Maybe shopping at the big warehouse club is actually increasing your grocery bill because it is too far away and it costs more to get there. Maybe, you can find out which foods cost less and can be used to build a menu during the week without making people go hungry in your family. All the little things add up in a budget and can help you to keep your spending in line while continuing to take advantage of specials when they are available.

It probably seems easy at first: sing a paper and walk out with a check against your coming refund. Yes but no! Your tax RAL will cost you much more than you can imagine. As an example, H&R Block’s RAL cost is about $230 for a $3000  refund. And you get that refund on a Emerald Card with 36% APR!

Such loan makes no sense. You are way better filing with e-file and getting the refund deposited directly into your bank account. It only takes about a week after the e-filing to receive your funds.

Tags: e-file | filing | hr block | taxes | ral

Fees. Annual Fee, Application Fee, Balance Transfer Fee, Late Payment Fee… Some credit cards are so overwhelmed with fees, that you credit limit can be entirely consumed by them before you even get a chance to use the plastic. Watch out for those charges! It’s a good idea to make a list of all the fees which your credit card carries in order to really understand how much exactly the credit will cost you.

APR. Most credit cards offer a low or 0% APR to their customers, but that’s just your initial APR, otherwise called Introductory APR. It is usually offered for 6 or 12 months, and after that period passes, you will be paying the regular APR. Then you also have a Default APR, which comes in effect when you miss payments, go over the limit or simply when your credit score goes down (“Universal Default”). You also may have up to three different APR’s: for cash, for balance transfer and for purchases.

Billing cycle. You can be billed bi-weekly, monthly, annually and in all kinds of other time incremental. Some banks even use double-billing cycle, where you have two due dates: one for your minimum payment and one for the entire balance.

Balance Transfer Terms. That 0% on Balance Transfers may come with its own Fine Print – for example 5% fee on the balance transferred or $2 per every $100 transferred.

Binding Arbitration. The credit card issuer is giving notice that if the cardholder has a disagreement with the creditor he or she can’t sue the card issuer in court. As a substitute, they must take the case to a private arbitrator or judge.

1) Ensure that you have an Anti-virus software installed on you computer; it is supposed to run all the time, providing constant protection against viruses. A cheap and good antivirus you can buy from ESET (NOD32) or you can download a free one from AVG. Run a system scan at least once a month and make sure that the virus database is being updated.

2) You will also need a Firewall; Windows XP and Vista have their built-in Firewalls; You can also download the free Zone Alarm Firewall and install it.

3) In order to protect yourself from spyware and adware, install Ad-Aware (also free). Run a system scan at least once a month in order to keep your system clean.

4) Make sure that your Windows is fully updated with the newest patches and hotfixes: go to http://windowsupdate.microsoft.com and install the recommended updates. Check for new updates at least once per month.

5) Install CCleaner and run the clean-up wizard once a month.

6) Install Mozilla Firefox and use it instead of Internet Explorer. It provides better security!

7) Make sure that you are entering your information on the right websites. Hackers sometimes create mirror websites (’phishing’) which look exactly like banking websites and they may steal your log-in details. The address box should always display the correct address (ex. login.chase.com not 122.333.112.44 or chase.free-hosting.com) and it should always start with https:// (meaning that the connection is secure).

When shopping or banking online, look for the yellow padlock symbol in the lower right corner of your browser window. This will insure that your online session is in a secured environment and that the personal information you enter is protected

9) Protect your wireless network with a password and avoid connecting to unsecured wireless networks. Unprotected wireless networks can be tapped into and your personal information is at risk of being stolen and used inappropriately.

10) Keep your information secure: password-protect your computer and do not send any login or other sensitive information via email. Reputable companies will not ask you for your password through e-mail or over the telephone.

Tags: identity theft | antivirus | firewall | secure | banking | mozilla | credit | debt

When dealing with your debt, the first thing to do is to summarize your responsibilities. In another words, understand how much you owe. And in order to do this, you will need a couple of simple things: Microsoft Excel, Internet, a phone and a couple of hours of free time.

For starters, create a new Excel file and password-protect it. Go to Excel, click on “Tools” then “Options”, click on the “Security” tab and look for the box “Password to open”. This is where you are going to put your password. After you have typed the password, click on “Ok”, re-enter the password (for security) and voila, your document is protected. Save it.

Your next task to do is to type in “Creditor” into the first box (A1). Write “Owed” in B2, “Available” in B3, “APR” in B4 and “Minimum Payment” in B5. Save. Next, list the names of your creditors in the first column, one name per row. Save again. The next step is to contact each creditor that you have listed in the first column and obtain as much information as you can. Against the name of each creditor you should fill out what’s owed, what’s available, what is the APR on the credit and what is the minimum monthly payment. Save frequently to avoid loss of information!

After you have everything listed, it’s time to summarize your debt. You will be using Excel’s Auto Sum function for that. Let’s do it with the numbers in column#2, “Owed”. Click on the first number in that column, hold the “Shift” key on your keyboard, and then click on the next empty box underneath the last number in that same column. This way you should have selected all the numbers below the “Owed” column, plus one more empty box. When that’s done, click on the Auto-sum Button which looks like the Greek letter Sigma - “Σ”. This will add all the numbers that you have selected and display the result on the bottom. The great thing about Auto Sum is that if you change any of the numbers in the column, Excel will automatically re-calculate the result! Do the same for the “Available” and “Minimum Payment” columns. Save.

Let’s summarize what’s been done. You have just made the first step towards your financial freedom. You now know exactly how much you owe, what are you minimum monthly payments, how much all those credit lines cost you per month and how much credit you have available. Good job!

Tags: credit | debt | debt-free | loans | apr | autosum | excel

The best way to pick a card can be summarized in a 3-step plan:

1. Educate.

What is APR? How do they calculate my minimum payments? How much will I have to pay per month if I owe $1000? What is a Balance Transfer? What is an Identity Theft Program Fee? It is really important to know the basics and the terms of the credit  because a smart consumer is an educated consumer. Here are a couple of articles that are going to be helpful:

- Understanding APR (Explains what really APR is, how it works and how not to get fooled by APR offers)

- 17 Hidden Credit Card Fees Revealed (Every credit card fee explained)

- What is FICO and Why Should You Care About it (Explains what FICO is and gives some advice on how to keep those score numbers high)

- Balance Transfers: Benefits & Drawbacks (Explains the possible pitfalls of Balance Transfers)

- How to Choose a Credit Card (Explains the different types of plastics)

2. Research.

There are a million websites out there that will help you with your research. You best bet is to figure out what are you looking for in a plastic: are you out there to collect point or you want to transfer balances? Write down your requirements and then compare the offers side-by-side.

- CreditCards.com (Great credit card comparison website)

- Bankrate.com (Compare The Best Credit Card Rates)

3. Negotiate.

If you have found your card online, and if you have some spare time, you may want to go one step further and call the bank. Talk to a customer care specialist and see if you can get a better deal. Very often supervisors have the ability to lower APRs and waive fees. 10-15 minutes on the phone can really get you a nice deal and save you green!

  Tags: credit | credit card | money | loans | bills | apr | balance transfer

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