Have you ever stared blankly at a wall of motor oil in the store, wondering what all those numbers and letter mean? SAE 5W-30, 15W-40, 10W – what does it all mean? And does it really make a difference which goes in your car?

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The numbers you see on your motor oil can range from 0 to 60 and are determined in laboratory tests by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). These numbers refer to viscosity, or thickness, with the lowest numbers representing the thinnest, and therefore the most viscous oil. Also, the “W” stands for “Winter,” and refers to oil that maintains viscosity even in cold winter temperatures.

The need for different grades of oil is readily apparent when the weather switches, because temperature has a dramatic effect on the viscosity of oil. For example, 40-weight oil may be perfect for a long road trip in the summer when the engine is nice and hot, but turn to sludge in the winter. On the other hand, 5-weight oil may work best in the middle of winter when temperatures are in the single digits, but provide very little lubrication after the snow melts.

Because of this, most motor oils on the market today are multi-viscosity oils, meaning they are formed from different grades of oil and share the characteristics of both thick and thin oil. For example, a 5W-30 oil will have the viscosity of a 5-weight oil when temperatures are cold, but work as well as a 30-weight oil when the engine heats up.

If you’re not sure which grade of motor oil to use, consult your owner’s manual. Most manufacturers recommend something around 10W-30, but there are circumstances that may call for different types of grades. For example:

Older vehicles

• As engines age, their parts often wear each other down. As a result, there can be more space between the parts of a 100,000 mile engine than in the engine of a brand new car. For older vehicles, consider a higher oil weight to help fill in this extra space.
• Very cold temperatures
  If you often take short trips and live in a very cold climate, consider a lower number. Thin oil can work through the engine quickly on a cold day, protecting its parts from the moment it starts.
• Overhead engines
  Because the oil needs to travel to the overhead cams and valve train, most mechanics recommend a lower weight for overhead engines.

and we don’t even live in Orange County!

Today we launched a new version of our new homepage (some of you may see it, some of you may not, we’re A/B testing). It features a new color scheme, more tips and tools, and an easier way to find the car that is right for you.

We built this, specifically with the car shopper in mind. If you know your brand, feel free to use the search widget. If you’re not sure sure of a brand, but you know you want a sedan, click the sedan image to find more information about sedans and sedan inventory in your area. Maybe you’re looking for a car under a specific price? No problemo, we have that option too; all from the homepage.

We are constantly trying to make your experience better. So if you like it, let us know. If you think we can do some things better, feel free to leave us a comment. We’re listening.

Thank you to everyone who participated in our contest with Adam Carolla’s co-host, Alison Rosen. We had great responses, all of which were very helpful. A special congratulations to Wayne W., Jillian G., and @b4eel. They are our 3 winners to our “Help Alison Find a Car” contest.

The Kelley Blue Book has been an essential tool for used car buyers since the 1920s. It all began when Les Kelley, a young car salesman in Los Angeles, compiled a list of cars he wished to buy and the prices he was willing to pay. His list quickly became the trusted source of value information for local banks and dealerships. Mr. Kelley realized that he was on to something, and published the first Blue Book of Motor Car Values in 1926.

Today, the Blue Book has blossomed into the industry’s go-to source for accurate value estimates and trusted quality insight. If you’re shopping around for a used car, the Kelley Blue Book will be your best tool for negotiating the right deal for you.

Retail Value vs. Selling Price

One of the most important things to know about the car you’re considering is the difference between the retail asking price and the car’s actual worth. Dealers will often claim that their price is lower than the Blue Book value in order to encourage buyers, but this claim can be misleading.

The Blue Book price they quote is often the highest retail value, regardless of the actual condition of car in question. If you consult the Blue Book yourself, you’ll find various suggested prices depending on the conditions of the sale and the condition of the vehicle. For example, according to the Kelley Blue Book online, less than 5% of all used cars are considered “excellent” and worth the top Kelley Blue Book price. Comparing the Blue Book’s listed values with the actual condition of the car can help you determine a fair estimate and face negotiations with confidence.

Essential Expert Insight

The Blue Book also offers access to an extensive library of research materials. If you’re still looking for the right model, you can consult the collection of expert and consumer ratings and reviews. Real owners will give you an idea of the lifespan and repairs you can expect from each vehicle. Once you find one you like, the Blue Book website can specify value estimates to your area and calculate the value of your trade-in, so you know exactly what to expect when you walk into your local dealership.

The Kelley Blue Book is just one more tool you can use to make the best used car decision. Even if you’re new to the used car market, you can still make a good decision with tools like the Kelley Blue Book. Check out our below Kelley Blue Book deals!

Alison Rosen, news girl from the Adam Carolla show, needs your help finding a new car. Head on over to usedcars.com/adam, check out some cars, then tweet Alison @alisonrosen (use the hashtag #pickacar4AR) or leave a blog comment with your suggestion. If your suggestion is cool enough for Alison, she’ll give you some props during a live show.

Oh, and we guarantee all our cars are bird-crap, crop-circle free!

You’ve found a car that seems perfect. The price is right, it drives well, and has all the features you’re looking for. But is it too good to be true? Whether you’re at the dealership or buying from an independent seller, you can’t always trust the salesman to reveal the dirty little secrets of their products. It’s important to learn how to spot red flags on your own. Here are some tips to conduct an effective vehicle inspection.

Bottoms Up

Courtesy of: nashville.nashvillescene.com

Grab a flashlight and start with the undercarriage. Look closely at the condition of each of the components. If you find something that looks newer than the rest, and the seller hasn’t told you of any repairs, he’s probably hiding something. Also inspect the framework and floor pans for rust, and check the ground for signs of drips and leakages.

Tired Tires

A vehicle’s tires can be a surprisingly good gauge of the car’s condition. Check for wear by inserting a penny into the tire treads. If the top of Lincoln’s upside-down head is visible, the tires probably need to be replaced. Perform the penny test in multiple places along the wheel tread to see if the wear is even. Uneven wear can be a sign that the car is misaligned, often due to a serious accident. Check that the condition of the tires is appropriate for the mileage. If the car has low mileage and worn tires, there’s a chance that someone tampered with the odometer.

The Walk Around

Many buyers do a walk-around inspection without knowing what to look for. Your primary targets are rust and damaged seals. Check the lower part of the body for exposed metal, rust, bumps, and discolored paint. Some rust is to be expected, especially near the wheels. Use a refrigerator magnet to check for repaired panels on all sides. If the magnet sticks in some areas and not others, there might have been extensive repairs. Make sure the doors, windows, and trunk close and seal properly.

Under the Hood

Don’t be intimidated. Even auto-novices can easily spot issues in the engine compartment. Make sure everything looks clean and rust-free around engine. If there are signs of newer paint, or if the bumpers around the hood have been painted over, the car has likely been repainted due to damage or rust. Make sure the oil is clean and at the correct level. If not, it’s a good indicator that the car was not well cared for.

If you know what you’re looking for, you can keep yourself from making a terrible buying decision. Avoid the pressure to hurry the inspection, and make sure you look over every inch of your new vehicle.

So you’re ready to buy a new car, but you’d like to get some value for your old car. The dealer is making a strong case for just trading it in, but is it really worth it? Below, we make arguments for trading in your old vehicle and selling it yourself. Read the pros and cons of each choice, evaluate your needs, and proceed with confidence.

Trade-in Pros

Courtesy of: http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/house-trading.htm

• Hassle Free – The strongest case for trading in a car is simply that it’s much easier than selling it yourself. By trading your car in to the dealer when you purchase your new car, you could be saving yourself months of headaches trying to sell your old car.
• Quick – If you need the money from your old car to make your next purchase, you may not want to wait out the sale of your vehicle. Trading in your old vehicle usually only adds less than an hour to the sales process.
• Tax Advantage – In most states, if you trade in your old car, you only pay tax on the difference between the price of the trade in and the price of the new car. Because of this, a trade in worth a several thousand dollars could be worth hundreds of dollars more.

Trade-in Cons

• Lower Price – The trade-in price for a used car is usually thousands of dollars less than the private sale price. This is because dealers clean and fix traded cars, then sell them at a nice profit.
• New Car Price Increase – Dealers know how just how low they can afford to bargain on each and still make a profit. When they find out a buyer may trade in an old car, salesmen often do not offer discounts that they normally would. The result is a much less impressive deal than most consumers know.

Private Sale Pros

• Best Value – The main reason people decide to take on the hassles of a private sale is they can command a much higher price for their car on the open market than they could with a dealer.
• Flexibility – What if you want to keep driving your used car for a few months after buying your new one? Or you’re thinking about donating your vehicle to charity? Or you’d rather buy your next car from a private seller? You wouldn’t have any of these options of you decide to trade in your car at a dealership.
• Cash – Selling your old car before buying your next one can give you cash for a bigger down payment. A large down payment will save you money on financing and give you better position for bargaining.

Private Sale Cons

• Hassle – Simply put, selling a car privately is often one headache after another. You need to worry about cleaning the car, placing ads, scheduling appointments, and dealing with rude people.
• Time – Selling a used car takes time. You should be willing to keep it on the market for as long as it takes to sell, making yourself available for test drives and phone calls.
• Financing – If you still owe money on your car, a private sale may be difficult or even impossible. Learn about your state’s regulations to find out what you have to do to sell a vehicle that still has a lien on it.
• Paperwork – It’s up to you to figure out what paperwork needs to be completed in order to sell a car yourself. Complications like liens can make the paperwork process even longer.

Is it worth it to leave thousands of dollars on the table to save yourself weeks or months of hassle? Then trading in your old vehicle is probably the way to go. If you’re prepared to spend a little extra time and energy to maximize the value of your investment, however, a private sale is for you. Which will you choose?

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You’re driving home from work when suddenly you see a light in the shape of an engine illuminate your dashboard. You pull off the road to check it out: sure enough, it’s the “check engine” light (CEL).  Now it’s time to panic (just kidding). Stay calm, and consider the most common source of this warning: the gas cap. Is it tightened? Check/tighten it, then drive for 15-20 minutes to give the warning light time to turn itself off.

Pay attention to other signals from the CEL and the car’s corresponding performance:

Minor issue

• Warning: the light’s on (even intermittently) or flickering
• Performance: no noticeable performance issues
• Solution: Keep driving, but get the car checked out as soon as possible.

Major issue

• Warning: the light stays on
• Performance: There are noticeable performance issues
• Solution: Get off the road as soon as you can; tow the car to a professional for service

Vital issue

• Warning: the light blinks steadily (not flickers)
• Performance: accelerating leads to flashing light (i.e., total emission control failure)
• Solution: Immediately get off the road; tow the car to a professional for service

If you’re confident there’s no engine/emission problem or you’ve fixed it (or are about to fix it), then it’s time to turn off the engine light. Can you do this yourself? Maybe. Depends on the age of your car.

For pre-1996 cars

If your car was built before the mid-90s, all you need to do is open the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal for about 30 seconds. When you restart the car, the light should be off again.

For post-1995 cars

The engine lights in these vehicles use different technology, and they’re not so easy to reset. You’ll need to go to a repair shop to have a mechanic turn it off with a special scanner. Alternatively, you can go to auto parts stores to use their scanners and get the diagnostic codes for your vehicle’s engine problems—national chains often provide this service for free.

Terminology lesson

check-engine light/malfunction-indicator light: “CEL”/“MIL”

diagnostic trouble code: “DTC”

A Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) car is a used car that has been inspected and certified, often by the manufacturer. This process offers the buyer peace of mind regarding the history and condition of their vehicle, and allows manufacturers and dealers to maximize profit and build brand loyalty. However, not all certification programs are created equal. If you’re considering purchasing a Certified Pre-Owned vehicle, it’s important to know exactly what you’re getting. While vehicles certified by the factory afford the most protection, there are several other types of certification that offer varying levels of guarantees.

Factory CPO

Factory CPO vehicles are inspected and certified by the manufacturer. These vehicles are generally five years old or newer, and have less than 80,000 miles. They are typically sold at authorized franchised dealerships at a higher price than non-certified and independently certified vehicles.

Courtesy of: http://www.southernstatesvolkswagen.net/

Independent CPO

Independent certification programs like the National Vehicle Certification Program inspect used vehicles not certified by the manufacturer. These are often offered at a lower cost than Factory CPOs and offer the same benefits, like an extended warrantee and special financing options. One drawback of an independent CPO is the consumer is often responsible for upfront payment on repairs, then wait for reimbursement.

Dealer CPO

Dealer-certified CPOs are often not actually inspected by a certifying authority, but are still promoted as certified. These vehicles often undergo inspection by dealership employees and come with an extended warrantee or service contract to protect the buyer. The buyer can have these vehicles inspected and certified at their own cost.

Is CPO For You

Many people choose CPO vehicles to take the uncertainty out of buying a used car. While these vehicles are a bit pricier than traditional used cars, they come with reassuring warranties and guarantees. So are CPOs for you?

If you are most interested in getting the best deal possible on your car, CPO may not be for you. Traditional used cars are always going to be a little cheaper than CPOs, so if you’re going into a dealership looking for a bargain on a CPO vehicle, you’ll walk away frustrated. CPO may hold less value if you are buying from a dealer you trust or you can handle a little more risk in your buying decision.

On the other hand, if you’re looking for a car that is almost new, CPO may be for you. CPO vehicles are more affordable than brand new cars, yet they are often just as dependable. Just like new vehicles, CPO cars also often offer perks like loan cars, roadside assistance and free maintenance.

If you’re considering buying a used car from a private seller, there are several important questions you should ask before you even go see the car. By asking these questions first, you can eliminate cars you’d never consider and save yourself plenty of time and frustration.

Why are you selling the car?

• This question can reveal a lot about both the car and the seller. Does the seller fix salvaged cars and sell them? Did the seller just buy a new car or is he selling on behalf of a relative? Knowing why the seller is getting rid of the car can help you negotiate a fair price and think through the risks.
  

  Courtesy of: http://www.rpmgo.com/buying-car-checklist

Has this car been in an accident?

• A collision should be a major red flag when buying a used car. Cars that have been in accidents may be fixed up to look like new on the outside, but still require major work under the hood. Of course, not all accidents are deal breakers, but you should try to get as much information as you can about any past collisions.

I see you have the vehicle listed at $XXXX. Would it still be worth my time to see the car if I could only go up to $XXXX?

• Most of the time, the seller will answer “yes” to this question. This is important, because the price you threw out is now the new top price point for the vehicle, and you can start your negotiations from your price rather than the listed price.

Can I have this vehicle inspected by my mechanic?

• If the seller says anything besides “yes,” walk away immediately. You don’t need to deal with someone who isn’t willing to have a car inspected by an expert.

Do you have service records for the car?

• In the uncertain world of used car sales, documentation and service records are like gold. If you discover a car has been taken care of with regular oil changes and routine maintenance, you can expect it to last much longer than a car that goes 10,000 miles between oil changes and skips preventative maintenance work.

What is the car’s VIN?

• A car’s VIN, or Vehicle Identification Number, is its own unique 17-character number. This number should be listed on the driver’s side of the dashboard by the windshield. After you discover a car’s VIN, you can use it to check the vehicle’s history through services like Carfax. This history can be invaluable for discovering inconsistencies in the seller’s story and turning up red flags like accidents and odometer rollbacks.

Can I take this for a test drive?

• No matter how much you trust the seller, never agree to purchase a vehicle without first taking it for a test drive. Test drives can turn up a number of problems that a mechanic could never discover through a visual inspection. Plus, how can you know if a car handles to your preferences if you never drive it?

When were the brakes/tires replaced?

• Brakes and tires are two components that need to be replaced every few years. If they are worn by the time you buy the car, you’ll have to replace them, adding to the cost of the vehicle. Feel free to use worn brakes or tires as a negotiation tool.

How long have you owned the car?

• Short ownership is a red flag that should spur follow-up questions. The most ideal situation is buying a car from the original owner who took great care of it.

Any outstanding loans or liens on the car?

• A lien on a car can turn into a messy situation. Save yourself the hassle of scheduling an appointment to look at a car with a lien on it.

How many miles are on the car?

• If it’s not listed in the ad, make sure you ask how many miles are on the car. This number can be just as important as the vehicle’s year.

Has it been smoked in?

• Cigarette odor is notoriously difficult to remove. If you’re a non-smoker, make sure you ask if a car has been smoked in, or you could be in for a nasty surprise when the seller’s air freshener wears out.

Ask about features that are important to you.

• Is cruise control important to you? Can you live without power windows or an iPod connection? Can you drive stick shift? Make sure you ask if a vehicle is equipped with features are important to you and if these features work.

Is there anything that I should know about the car?

Finally, simply ask if there is anything else you should know about the car. The seller may not offer up anything, but many times, they’ll bring up repairs that are needed or features that weren’t discussed before.