vagabond cowgirl

bombas

2019-11-12T18:28:00.000-07:00

it is impossible for me to explain the relationship between bombas and Guatematecos but i will try - the closest thing i've ever seen is the irrational behavior of men around the 4th of July in the United States. illegal in most states [for good reason] men drive hours to buy fireworks from a state where it is legal, in anticipation of the 4th of July and then they HIDE THE FIREWORKS from the women [for good reason].

i remember as a child my brothers buying fireworks during summer holidays when we passed through states where selling was legal. the same childlike fascination is celebrated on a large scale in Guatemala.

the bombas in Guatemala sound like a motar round exploding and in Antigua or at the Lake the sound reverberates off the surrounding mountain sides so it amplifies the sound for miles.

this can drive the expats bat-shit crazy especially when they first arrive, but strangely you get used to it to some extent - like living in a war zone. gradually you stop cringing when you hear them.

there is a history behind the bombas that most people don't really understand. when the Spaniards came they brought with them religion and when building their churches they would get the bells from Europe and the bells were used to call people to church for services and celebrations.

the Guatemaltecos got used to the bells as a symbol of celebration but as they drifted from the catholic church the bells were too expensive to put onto new evangelical churches. instead they used the bombas to call people to church. and so the usage of the bombas spread so that everyone began using them as a symbol of every celebration.

it's annoying as shit when those are going off on your street at 5am for three days in a row because someone is celebrating a birth, birthday, death, religious holiday, government holiday or [fill in the blank].

oh and as if the unending fireworks weren't enough ... there is a tradition of putting a firecracker headress on a teenager, lighting it up and letting them run down the street. this is real and totally sanctioned by the adults.

so you can see why cultures clash when Guatemaltecos arrive in the US.

keeps me humble

2019-11-04T16:44:00.000-07:00

This pretty much sums up my experience learning Spanish...

There are at least 15 large language learning schools in Antigua, Guatemala and many with immersion courses. It fits my schedule best to work one on one with a spanish tutor and there are many to choose from in Antigua.

The teacher I have used for the last two years is Edwin Vega. He comes round to my house or we meet up in a cafe. He has a wicked sense of humor and a lot of patience. He is fluent in English which helped me when I wanted an explanation of something. He offers classes online as well so it's possible to maintain a class schedule even when I'm traveling.

He's also an expert salsa dancer! You can check out his website here Edwin's Website.

Buying Boots in Pastores, Guatemala

2019-10-26T16:50:00.000-06:00

Fabulous new boots .... so happy with how they turned out! Here's everything you need to know to shop like a pro in Pastores. I've been a few times now, so i have talked to several boot makers.

First, find Pastores on a map... it is just past Jocotenango as you head out to Chimaltenango. It's about 30Q [$4] for an uber from Antigua or 5Q if you grab the bus from the mercado.

Pastores has over 20 boot makers and they don't seem to like each other very much - and they are all in competition so prices won't vary much. There are plenty of shops on the main road ... no need to wander further. One of the first shops as you enter Pastores is Hernandez. All the drivers know this shop because it's one of the biggest and it's a great place to start. You can look at what's on offer and get an idea of how much items cost.

You can wander up and down the street checking out the other shops... If you find what you want you are all set!

If you decide you want a pair custom made I'm going to recommend Lorenzo [card below 5985-4185] at El Rancho. It is one of the tiny shops but he does great work, charges a fair price and will get it right for you. I have high arches so I get him to build support for me. He made the first pair of boots I got and they are sooo comfortable - remember this post?

I've sent some other people to him and they also had a great experience and beautiful boots!

So look for this shop ... and tell him a friend sent you. Lorenzo doesn't have English but I've still been able to get by or bring a friend with better Spanish.

It usually takes around 10 days to get the boots made - but in the past I've always asked for changes so that takes another week. Since there is a La Torre [super fancy grocery store] in Jacotenango I usually combine with a grocery run.

When I finally decided I wanted a pair of boots that incorporate a Guatemalan textile I picked out a used huipil at the NIM POT near the arch in Antigua. [the NIMPOT is a socially responsible business providing artisans from throughout Guatemala access to the tourists and the prices are very good] I love the greens and blues in my huipil but there are hundreds of huipils from 20Q - 100Q stacked along one side. The boot maker used that textile for my boots. The cost for a pair of boots bought off the shelf or made should be around $50.

When I picked up my boots I saw Lorenzo was taking orders for this leather backpack which I loved but thought it was a tad pricy at 650Q [$85].

We didn't find any good spots to eat in Pastores but it's great for a couple of hours of shopping. On one trip I was with my amiga Laura who is a fantastic shopper and she found the shop where the boot makers buy their leather... and of course we both ended up with a half a cow hide. Great for a rug or upholstery, etc. The cost varies but I think it was about $40 for the hide. The owner said the hides come from Huehuetenango.

Most of the shops do close for lunch ... but it seemed like around 2 instead of the usual 1PM. The boot makers don't like people to take pictures so maybe look around online if you have a specific style in mind so you can show a boot maker what you want.

Last note, I don't consider the chicken buses from Chimaltengo to be safe so I usually don't ride that route... I know plenty of people who have ridden that route safely. I'll debate that in another post.

If you go to Pastores for boots leave a comment below so this post stays current and has other feedback.

move over pope

2019-09-02T13:14:00.000-06:00

there has been a very significant shift away from catholicism in Guatemala. while previously it was the only religion the country is now split and 50% of those practicing religion are catholic - the 50% are called evangelical.

i have no idea what the evangelicals believe or don't believe. i can say that there are missionaries all over Guatamala and i did overhear this conversation at a local shop in Antigua. clearly, this youngish [20 something] guy and slightly older woman were missionaries i'm just not sure which flavor.

him: someone asked me about the cross and i didn't know what to say
her: we don't ever talk about the cross or crucifixion because they are symbols associated with catholicism.

ummm. ok. i didn't wait around to hear more.

one day on an hour-long ride to Santa Teresita where there are hot springs we got to speculating about this shift away from catholicism. urbanization and economic decline were early factors and but it was the catholic church's alignment with the guerrillas during the civil war that opened the flood gate of evangelicals. from there it seems the catholic church wasn't 'tending it's flock' and that led to the massive exodus.

more on the religious practices in Guatemala.

chruch crypts

2019-08-29T13:09:00.000-06:00

One of the other practices the Spaniards brought with them is the burial of the wealthy and influential patrons under the flooring of the churches.

The deceased were buried under a dirt floor inside the crypt with lime and eventually moved into an ossuary in the same crypt. Coffins are not common and it was very rare to have a tombstone.

The cathedral in the main park has some of the few crypts visitors may visit including one under a chapel that is currently used by mayan spiritual guides for ceremonies. Under the main altar, the remains of the conqueror Pedro they Alvarado and Bishop Francisco Marroquin are believed to have been buried. The remains are excavated in 1943 And put in a box in the local courthouse.

A beautifully excavated crypt is below the Santo Domingo church and has an exquisite mural painting from 1636.

built from cacao money

2019-08-27T12:55:00.000-06:00

fun fact. there are about 26 catholic churches in one square kilometer [half a mile] that is considered the city of Antigua. this is the cathedral at the central park [don't call it the square or the center - people will say they don't know what you are talking about] - only a portion of it is still used. like many ruins in Antigua, massive portions of the structure are left where they landed during the earthquakes.

the architect who designed one of the rebuilds of the cathedral is credited with the ability of the superstructure to withstand additional earthquakes. it provides a spectacular view of the sky on a clear day.

so, what does this have to do with cacao? one of the crops highly valued by the spaniards was cacao from which chocolate is made. much of present day guatemala was planted with cacao that was exported to spain. it is the cacao trade that funded the origninal cathedral.

havana, cuba

2019-01-31T17:09:00.000-07:00

Growing up in Florida, just 90 miles from Cuba, I had a fascination about Cuba that is finally satisfied. I was due for a visa run so I talk my brother, sister and another friend into a trip. Here's a snapshot of the craziness that is Cuba.

true devotion

2018-03-14T16:35:00.000-06:00

there is a rich and vibrant history behind the processions during lent. the reasons for these processions are in line with the catholic themes of introspection, devotion and penance. what the processions have become are quite a distortion of those original concepts.

participation today is based purely on economics. participants carry the floats for a set distance [about a 1/2 mile]. the cost to participate is based on where during the route you carry [higher visibility areas cost more] and where on the float you stationed.

devotional is not a word i would use to describe this ritual. the participants are on average as devotional as a two year old in church. introspection? not when you can't put your cell phone down for your 20 minute shift. penance? yep, walking in the hot sun carrying a float that weighs up to 700 pounds is brutal.

makes you wonder what would jesus say?

angels

2018-03-12T19:52:00.000-06:00

then a saint

2018-03-09T20:02:00.000-07:00

mayan + catholic practies in Guatemala

2018-03-09T16:32:00.000-07:00

when the conquistadors arrived and introduced catholicism there was resistance by the mayans. the spanish built over the existing religious sites and did other crappy things which are pretty standard 'art of war' practices. and the mayan did adopt catholicism. they also kept their old mayan practices as well and often you see the practices side by side. these colored candles have a lot of significance for the mayan and there are separate altars just outside the entrance of the catholic churches where it is acceptable for the mayan catholics to light their candles. they just can't go inside the church where only traditionally white candles are used.

red - love, clarification and represents the east. black - cuts negative energy and represents the west. white - purification of the mind and represents the north. yellow - the energy of life and represents the south. green - hope. light blue - fortune. purple - removes illness. pink - fixes love

there are multiple combinations that enhance specific intentions, like mixing the white and blues will give you spiritual powers like intuition and vision. more here.

first the romans

2018-03-07T19:56:00.000-07:00

day processions

2018-03-07T19:50:00.000-07:00

night processions

2018-03-06T19:55:00.000-07:00

going to a procession

2018-03-05T19:44:00.000-07:00

cuaresma

2018-03-03T13:18:00.000-07:00

lent. it's been around for a long time - like 2000 years. it is called cuaresma here. most people know what ash wensday is but the significance here is amplified. this year the begining of a time of austerity and internalization for catholics lands on a day otherwise known best for a celebration of lovers. february 14. so a bit awkward.

mardi gras isn't really a thing here but they give lent a whole new meaning.

i haven't commented on this because i've been watching and trying to understand the unique relationship Antigua and Guatemala has with lent [cuaresma]. also, as an outsider it is really easy to see the rediculousness of the traditions.

when i first arrived i was creeped out by the veneration of the religious statues in the churches. i'm not sure why, i grew up in the catholic church, i had been around them all my life. maybe i have spent too much time in the east.

these religious statues are kept year round is specific churches. each week during lent there are processions as statues are moved from church to church or on sundays, they are just taken out for a really long walk. so more on the processions next....

new boots

2018-03-02T14:00:00.000-07:00

total gringo thing to do but i love them and they are sooo comfortable. a pueblo outside Antigua called Pastores is known for making boots. so about two weeks ago i went out to see about a new pair of boots. the cream color caught my eye and so i had a pair made. i went out to pick them up last week and i was really not happy because they were too big. went back out today and they fit perfect.

i had been resistant to getting some made because they are leather which gives me a twinge of guilt but at at $40US i had to have me a pair.

video of honduras

2018-02-25T15:46:00.000-07:00

money, recrossing the border, navigation and rental car

2018-02-24T13:52:00.000-07:00

$0.20 - twenty cents american

we ended up not changing any money as we were able to get around using our credit cards and american dollars. i had filled the gas tank in guatemala so i wouldn't have to in Honduras and that worked out great. we ended up with a few lempira notes as change for coffee in one shop [give them american dollars - they give you a really crappy exchange rate - you get change back in local money]

driving back to the border the road had dried out enough in washed out places that traffic was moving quickly.

we all had valid stamps for Guatemala in our passports and since we had not been stamped out [just stamped into Honduras] i drove past the immigration buildings and to the Guatemalan border gate. i get challenged by someone in the car who was either just thinking out loud or wanted to go stand in more immigration lines. i say let's see what happens and let's not make it more complicated than it needs to be. it takes a minute for the guard to walk out of his shack and he lifts the gate and waves us through. i shout a 'muchas gracias' and it was that easy. i don't believe we did anything improper but remote border crossings are always unpredictable so someone else might have a different experience.

the route we took back was not the same because of a navigation error. i had fallen asleep in the back seat and when i woke up we were off route. so, not a big deal but driving in remote areas does require both a skilled driver and some with navigation skills. roads are poorly marked and google maps/waze was not 100% reliable.

when i return the rental car there is of course a final surprise, the contract is in US$ but when you return the car if you don't pay in US$ cash then they convert using a very bad exchange rate and charge your credit card at the much higher Guat quetzales rate. this pissed me off because it's just a blantant rip off but i need the transaction to go on my cc for coverage reasons. i told them i would dispute the added costs with my cc company - which i did because i had a contract in US$ and didn't pay the extra amount.

this was a great adventure and i had a wonderful time. i hope that my travels take me back to Honduras.

violence in Honduras & Guatemala

2018-02-22T15:31:00.000-07:00

this topic is toxic but this is my opinion - i try very hard not to make it worse than it is but to see it how it really is.

competition to be the most violent country in Central America is fierce. the top contenders of the moment are El Salvador, Guatemala and Honduras. Honduras has been in the news at the moment because of the violence and protests surrounding the recent elections. in my time there i was cautious but did not see any evidence of violent crimes in the area i visited.

image from theindependent.co.uk

from my short time talking to people in Honduras there are bigger problems than the protests around the elections. it's the narcotics industry that is impacting the country. due to flight logistics the major drug producing countries of south america need to land their planes in Honduras then move the drugs over land from there to the US. hundreds of airstrips have popped up creating a new crop of narco warlords.

likewise, the same trends are visible in Guatemala as that money creeps north. they aren't going to target expats or tourists but it is still possible to get caught in the crossfire.

the narcotics industry and ultimately poverty are systemic problems that need to be addressed by sustainable economic solutions in developing countries.

on security, i don't trust expats or other travelers because everyone's security experience, exposure and risk tolerance is different and just as important every culture has it's own nuances.

the real experts on the level of danger in a country are the insurance guys [and the O&G sector]. they pay people to evaluate the social, political and economic stability of a country to make sure they aren't overexposed. in my experience that list is far more valuable than what comes out of the state department in the US.

asked recently by a Canadian about security in Guatemala this is what i said:

death, violent attacks and sexual assault - yes, it's possible but easy to minimize this risk by not going into the specific regions known to have high levels of related activities. specific zones in Guat City and a few rural areas.

home property theft - yep. expats are a big target here and the longer you live here the risk increases. in my opinion, this is usually not random so it's just makes sense the longer you are here to more service providers will be in the house and it's just a matter of time.

street crime - more than most countries and being a gringo i know that i am a bigger target. i minimize risk by carrying limited amounts of cash, don't wear expensive jewelry, expose my camera or phone on the street, carry technology [other than a phone] or walk alone after dark. where i live it's easy and safe to use taxis/ubers after dark. risk goes up during holidays.

in Guatemala i feel more safe here than in Africa, less safe than in Asia or the US. still, the only place i have ever been robbed at gunpoint or had my home robbed is in the US.

the scarlet macaw

2018-02-20T20:54:00.000-07:00

years ago on a trip to Costa Rica we came across a beach with a flock of scarlet macaws and i was hooked. i had never seen such a magnificent bird. they are big and noisy and messy and dominate the environment.

like choosing a favorite child, this is secretly my favorite bird. i haven't seen any in Guatemala since i arrived and suspect they have been harvested to the point of extinction for their beautiful plumage.

i was thrilled to hear they have been reintroduced to the valley of Copan and thriving in the wild. at the Hacienda San Lucas they encourage them to visit with nesting boxes on the property.

the macaws welcome you at the entrance to the Copan ruins which is appropriate as they figure prominently in the Mayan story. when i spot the first streak of red i am so happy to see them again. we were told they are the birds used on the 'goal posts' of the ball court and it follows that their feathers would also be sought after by the royals for their costumes. the ancient Mayan mythology refers to the scarlet macaw as the representation of the sun which is easy to imagine given the vibrant color of the feathers and regal way that they rule the sky.

there is a moment as we walk through the ruins when a group of 20+ macaws fly overhead - as noisy and playful as i remember - and everyone stands rooted where they are to watch the display. there is a bird 'sanctuary' close to Copan called Macaw Mountain and i am excited to visit it to see the work they are doing.

i left macaw mountain with very mixed feelings. i didn't get an understanding for the impact they were having. being a lover of wild life it was heart breaking to see wild birds kept in small enclosures and breeding cages while elaborate walkways and bridges had been constructed for people. the staff encouraged visitors to touch, handle and hold the birds for a photo op which i see as enabling people to interact with wildlife in an inappropriate way.

i felt the organization could be more responsible in education and presentation about these wild birds and it seemed more like a zoo and less like a sanctuary to me. i didn't voice my thoughts to the group but they talked about how much more satisfying it was to see the birds in the wild at the ruins than in the cages.

the copan ruins

2018-02-18T14:17:00.000-07:00

the ruins in Copan are considered as important as those at Tikal because of the abundance of stone with Mayan writing that document the civilization at it's height between 300AD and 900AD. it reminded me of visiting first the temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia and then later seeing remnants of that same civilization 500 miles away in Vietnam.

the more time i spend in the region, the more i am learning of the Mayan civilization and how advanced they were. right after i arrived in Antigua i met an american woman who had been living in Guatemala for about 30 years. she spent her career studing Mayan civilization.

whenever i get by for a glass of wine i learn a little bit more about the ancient Mayans. she believes that Mayan medicine was so much more advanced that the arrival of the Spaniards set back medical advancement by about 500 years. that's not something you are going to read about in the west.

we find the main site and a guide [arranged by the Hacienda] and as we walk to the gates we are welcomed by a very large group of wild macaws. more on the macaws in the next post.

this UNESCO site is well preserved and much of what has been uncovered remains in it's original position. the stones tell the story of the dynastic rule in Copan [today we would call it political propaganda] and the rituals that help historians understand the belief system. the stones show a special reverence for animals. those that live both above ground and below ground were believed to travel between the living and the dead. the dead dwelling being inside the earth. those that fly above were revered as carriers of the sun and responsible for the sunrises and sunsets.

the ball court here and it's importance in the rituals is all new to me. at some mesoamerican sites the ball courts were used for gaming. no so here. the leader of the winning team was sacrificed and this was considered an honor. the sacrificed winner would decend into the dwelling of the dead to apease the gods and become a communicator with the rulers of the living.

the temples, the writings, the construction all point to a very sophisticated civilization and as more secrets of this ancient world are uncovered many people theorize they were more advanced than other civilizations like the Egyptians.

here comes the preachy part .... coming from a culture that places little value on animals beyond a food source it's really hard to wrap your mind around how much the Mayans respected the animals, the earth and worked with the cycles of the year to live in harmony with the environment. there are really important lessons to be learned in the telling of their story. it is now recognized that the decline of the civilization was in part caused by over population and poor use of the land. they could no longer produce enough food to sustain the large centers of population. the land surrounding the Copan ruins had been completely deforested and it's impact is still present today as the old growth trees aren't present to protect the valley from mud slides.

back to Copan, the ruins and town are not as commercialized as most UNESCO sites which is good to see but reflect how out of the way and less visited they are.  it's a minimum of six hours by road and most trips are longer than that.

i feel so blessed to be able to see these amazing ruins. El Mirador is next on the amazing ruins list ... but it is only accessible via a multi day hike or via helicopter. the first being scary to me because it's on horses through the jungle and the second option being a bit pricey.

Hacienda San Lucas

2018-02-16T14:16:00.000-07:00

while most people head to Copan for the ruins the Hacienda San Lucas is a destination in itself. because of the previously noted rains the road up to this place was a little tough in spots. Jose [owner/manager] met us at the bottom on the hill and ended up taking our little rental car to the top for us - real valet service. Jose introduces his wife, Norma the second half the hacienda management.

the property is bursting with color and well loved. from the dog that will lift it's head to greet you - to the staff - everyone wears a smile and is helpful without being asked.

since we arrive just before sunset we delay going to our rooms and have a glass of wine while watching darkness descend over the valley. Jose wanders out to chat with us about birds, the valley, ruins, etc. and then we have dinner on the beautiful candlelit patio. a four course dinner is $26US.

the rooms are built to a western standard decorated in a Ralph Lauren style that is simple, functional and beautiful. the plumbing all works like it should [this can't be taken for granted in some countries] and after a long shower [probably the best since i've been in central america] i crawl into the comfortable bed and sleep really well.

in the morning i am up early to catch some of the morning birds and i'm not disappointed. watching the valley and the hacienda waking up is magical. there is a yoga shala that is as great as or better than any i've been on and i promise myself i will be back to this wonderful place again.

unfortunately, we were only able to book in for one night because they have only eight rooms and so we check out and head out to meet a guide at the ruins.

this place rates my highest recommendation because typically to find this level of luxury and elegance in a remote area of a developing country the cost would be over 300US$ per night but the cost here is a more manageable $100US per night.

the place of tea and chocolate and vanilla

2018-02-14T21:29:00.000-07:00

having navigated the border and washed out segment of the road to Copan, i get a lovely note from my Guatemalan phone provider - only $2 per minute for roaming in Honduras. i only pay about $15 per month in Guatemala for my phone so this is not a welcomed note.

it is just another 10 minutes to Copan. my first stop is the tea and chocolate place to meet up with the vanilla guy - David - that i was introduced to by the macadamian guy. i get a tour of the vanilla experiment he is running and i'm not disappointed. in fact, being a vanilla geek, i am shocked and amazed at the work he is doing. vanilla is only native to mesoamerica so i was excited to see it in that environment. instead of the hand pollination methods used elsewhere, he is cultivating the insects that naturally pollinate these flowers and getting very high yields. i totally geek out about this amazing work he is doing [not just on vanilla but on other levels as well] in awe and humbled by how we all have such different ways to contribute to making our world a better place.

the tea and chocolate shop they run by his family is only open for a few hours in the afternoon but it is charming and rated very highly on trip advisor for a good reason. the tea they give me is heavenly.

next we set off to find our accommodations.

off to Copan in Honduras

2018-02-12T12:12:00.000-07:00

this is no short tale and will require multiple posts for the telling.

there are currently two major sites that tell the story of the Mayan civilization. the most well known is Tikal in the north of Guatemala which i previously visited on a different trip. it was phenomenal and ignited my interest in the Mayan history.

the second site is Copan which is in Honduras just a few miles over the Guatemala border. it's a bit of a trek but one i know i must do. after much debate a few friends and i decide to rent a car and drive Antigua to Copan. i'm as excited as a kid at christmas. i got quite a bit of noise from both expats and locals who thought we were crazy to get a rental car and drive. i hate when you tell someone about what you are going to do and they start projecting your fears onto you but i digress. security and decision making is a different post.

there is a third, very exciting site emerging named El Mirador which still has limited access.

but there is a second reason i want to visit Copan. there is a guy there growing vanilla. when i was at the macadamian finca [Valhalla] Lorenzo had called him to introduce me because of my passion/fixation/experience with vanilla in Africa.

the drive is fantastic... we avoid the traffic and an uncomfortable ride in a van and get to see a lot of the southern part of Guatemala just bursting with color ... until we hit the border.

i was expected by the vanilla guy so i was anxious to arrive but as we approach the Guatemala/Honduras border there is a very long [like 1 mile] line of semis [what we call 18 wheelers in the US]. after waiting a while and chatting up a bunch of miscellaneous people [did i mention none of us was fluent in spanish?] at the border we hear there is a washed out road on the the Honduras side causing delays. what? washed out roads in Honduras ... i expected it so i wasn't surprised.

being resourceful [like i think i am] i follow a tourist shuttle as it weaves in and around the semis to and over the border. this is a good strategy and we avoid hours [or days] of delays.

after driving on the wrong side of the road for a mile dodging oncoming traffic to the border, customs and immigration was for us no problem. we parked, entered a building were 'fingerprinted',  stamped and paid our $3 in less than 10 minutes. i say 'fingerprinted' because the machines don't work and i watched as the agents would eventually give up and stamp the passports and wave people through. Honduras is part of a C4 coalition [guatemala, honduras, el salvador and nicaragua] which makes the borders less formal like in the EU.  except they all keep their own money - so we went in with american dollars to exchange not knowing exactly what to expect.  at the rental car agency we had paid $28 border fee for paperwork to cross the border with a car but no one wanted to see the documentation and we could have easily crossed the border without either a stamp or the car paperwork.

turns out there was a spot on the Honduras side where where the road was washed out and they were using a massive tractor [like a front end loader] to pull the semis up the muddy hill. i follow the tourist shuttle and make it up the muddy, rutted, washed out hill.  i don't recommend this for everyone. i have years of experience driving off road in the mountains of Colorado in winter and driving in Africa. that seems to be the right balance to be comfortable navigating in 3rd world countries.

the biggest hassle was dealing with the car rental agency in Antigua [Budget] which was typical gringo BS but that is a whole different post.