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The New Normal: The Rapid-Growing Cult of Normcore

2014-09-20T11:33:00.000-07:00

The term "normcore" began popping up in the fashion lexicon shortly after the Fall '14 shows back in February. New York trend agency K-Hole coined it, explaining, "Normcore doesn't want the freedom to become someone. Normcore moves away from a coolness that relies on difference to a post-authenticity that opt into sameness." That's a lot of words for something that looks so simple. Defined as "bland anti-style," it represents a charged rejection of "notice me, look at me" trends, flamboyant silhouettes, high-powered accessories (or pretty much any accessories, for that matter), and vivid-bright colors, for a conscious return to basics in the most literal and deliberate sense of the word basic. Over six months later, it's only gaining traction.

Everything allegedly ordinary, nondescript, and plain is worth coveting. This includes mom jeans, traditional New Balance and all-white Nike sneakers, white button-down shirts, monochrome tees and ribbed tanks (preferably Hanes or Fruit of the Loom), lace-free slip dresses, generic track pants, Birkenstocks and other sensible sandals, socks (because they're comfortable), peacoats, army jackets, fleece sweatshirts, plaid flannel, and plenty of cotton. The acceptable color palette consists almost strictly of navy, black, white, khaki, brown, heather gray, forest and military green, and classic denim blue. Unfussy, unadorned, borderline androgynous, sometimes vaguely preppy: consider it a palate cleanser for your wardrobe. Just don't think the look is worn without irony or intention.

It's related to the "Cool vs. Effortless" effects, as discussed by Leandra Medine on Man Repeller, but what makes normcore "cool" is its lack of coolness. It entails applying effort to look effortless, an age-old theme for many when it comes to getting dressed. It is deliberate in its anti-distinctiveness. If there's any doubt that this embracing of all things simplistic, uniform really, is a bona fide and permeating shift in the way people are dressing now, you need only look to the Gap's latest ad campaigns and slogan.

"Dress normal" they command, followed by taglines like, "Dress like no one's watching" (whatever the hell that means), "Get caught wearing the same thing," and "Let your actions speak louder than your clothes" (which at least makes sense in the context of the concept). It's almost as if the Gap had the thought: "Hey, wait a minute, we've been making the clothes that are now apparently 'trendy' all along. Let's not only hop on the bandwagon but reclaim it for ourselves."

From top left: Jil Sander 1996 campaign and Fall 1997 and Spring 1999 runway looks

Far left and far right: Calvin Klein Spring 1999 runway looks; middle: Fall 1994 runway look

One could argue this is simply nineties minimalism experiencing a renaissance (which it most certainly is; has been for awhile now). The clean, pared-down aesthetics of Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, and Helmut Lang come to mind when considering the much talked-about normcore movement, though theirs can feel almost high-brow in comparison to this purposefully pedestrian mode of dressing. Essentially, the people who were children and teens in the nineties are going back to the clothes they wore as kids.

From top left: Helmut Lang Fall 1997 runway looks and Spring 1991 runway look

Maybe we're yet again sick of all the visual noise and clunk and junk. Maybe we've just remembered that it feels good to look clean. Maybe we're getting a little socialist in spirit, realizing that the more similarly we all dress, the more our individual personalities can shine through, which seems counter-intuitive though the notion is not without merit. But here's the thing: the rejection of trends can be a trend in itself, and when a mode of dressing becomes a "thing," even if that's the intention, it's only a matter of time before the pendulum swings in the other direction. The fact remains: by rejecting the selection of a persona defined by your clothes, you are, in fact, electing a persona, even if that persona claims, "Hey, non-fashion person, I'm just like you! Only a little better because I am dressing like this on purpose. And you're not."

C'Mon, Barbie, Let's Go Party: Moschino's Spring '15 Collection and the Kitsch Question

2014-09-18T15:24:00.002-07:00

Subtle he is not. That we've known about Jeremy Scott for years, he of the snuggly teddy bear-tongued Adidas, Shrek-themed tees and sweaters, leather jacket-shaped bags, and Pink Poodle collection, which happened to be his gloriously tacky breakthrough back in 1997 (enter Elle Woods four years later). Also known as the reigning king of "junk culture," when California-boy Scott started at Moschino last year, he said, "It's the closing of one chapter and the beginning of a new one." McDonald's-themed pieces followed, and suddenly Ronald was having a moment.

Come to think about it, we should have all seen this latest collection coming. After tackling fast food and performing a play on the concept of fast fashion, versus painstaking ready-to-wear and far more meticulous couture, in the process, Spring 2015's subject (it's impossible to correctly call it inspiration, as this is as literal as it gets) is just as commercial and just as ingrained into the all-American psyche as the Big Mac. Hello, Barbie!

Moschino has always been about elements of humor. Now with Scott at the helm, that sense of humor has been super-sized (no pun intended) and then some. Irreverence and rebellion reign supreme here, and those are some of the cornerstones of fashion, or at least what it takes to push the envelope in the fashion world. So looking at this, basically, part of you wants to say screw it and embrace this stuff with big, shiny, plastic arms and the other is saying, "Come on. Yeah, I get it, but this joke is just too easy. And too silly."

It's superficial, it's pop art (well, minus most of the "art" element), it's wearable toys for grownups. Over-the-top elements like chunky peace signs seem only natural for Scott, who at 40 years old today came of age in the nineties, when there was little ironic about wearing excessively magnified chain-link belts and matchy-matchy everything. Now anyone who ever had a Barbie doll when she was a little girl will recognize these neon squiggle prints, snap-on plastic bikini tops, and earrings so big they ought to make your head drop. Especially if your head is full of air.

He is begging us to ask the question, where does playful irony end and plain, old bad taste begin? Scott isn't a dumb guy; he knows exactly what he's doing, even if that's merely flipping an emphatic middle finger to designers who are founded and focused on craftsmanship, sobriety, and maintaining a healthy balance between high-end art and commercial desirability. Certainly what he is doing is more respectable, perhaps deceptively so, than the four-figure baby doll dresses, combat boots, and leather jackets Hedi Slimane is defiantly churning out at Saint Laurent (and who can argue with him, either? That shit's selling). At least it's good for a chuckle, even if the only girls who are going to be dressing like Barbie come spring are the top bloggers who are well-versed on the topic of how to get your picture taken. By then, either we'll be laughing at them or the joke will be on us.

Everything Good About the Marc Jacobs Spring '15 Show

2014-09-17T16:06:00.001-07:00

While everybody has already moved on to Milan, we're still in New York (literally and figuratively), letting the Marc Jacobs show marinate. It was surreal, complete with a mind-bending audio recording and a Pepto-Bismol pink set that included a Wizard of Oz-inspired house and a glowing concrete runway. It was fun, with silhouettes that ran the gamut from baggy and boyish to friskily nymphet-esque. It was at once soft and strong, playing up classic themes of juxtaposition, without so much as a hint of pushed effort. And it was quintessential, uncut, liberated Marc Jacobs.

1. He gave us reason to love a woman in uniform.
While the foundation of fashion, as well as great style, is individuality, there is something suddenly alluring about the concept of a uniform. Marc sent a fleet of sergeants and generals down the runway, and while they looked like they were in the throes of wicked-glamorous boot camp, there was nothing that said, "Yes, sir" about them.

2. He embraced a few old trademarks and tricks.
Remember the oversized buttons, baubles, and organic-yet-often plastic embellishments of '90s Marc? They have made their triumphant return and happily, enough time has passed so they feel cute and fresh yet again.

3. The collection is utilitarian in all the right ways.
Sometimes totally gigantic pockets or a plethora of them in odd and unusable places look stupid. But this brand of refined utilitarianism packs just the right amounts of whimsy and practicality. And actually, some of those big cargo pockets genuinely eliminate the need for a purse.

4. Tomboys are back. But they're in touch with their femininity.
Ah, the eternally intriguing contrast of masculine and feminine. There's something about a multi-faceted, dual-natured creature that exudes appeal, and it's high time the image-conscious tomboy made a strong showing in the collections. (Pencil skirts, be damned.) More and more chicks ought to embrace the baggy military suit. Or satin military mini-dress. Whatever you prefer.

6. Really short, hyper-flared mini-skirts are fun.
Is there anything as youthful as a skirt in such a silhouette? Thigh-skimming, lightly structured (so they won't lose their perkiness), and full of flounce, think of such a skirt as a little ball of euphoria that's just waiting in your closet to show you a good time.

7. He says, "Screw stilettos." Sane women say, "Hooray."

Velveteen Dr. Scholl's, anyone? If there's a designer who could make something that sounds that hideous into something that women will be clamoring for come spring, it's this guy. Besides, he's not the only one who feels the dainty heel ought to be ditched, at least for the time being. The chunky shoe is so on.

Sex, Drugs, and Rockin' Raves: The Cast of Characters at Spring 2015 New York Fashion Week

2014-09-12T07:35:00.000-07:00

Clockwise from top left: Versus Versace, Rodarte, Jeremy Scott, Marc by Marc Jacobs

Now that New York Fashion Week is officially over (mourn! rejoice! shove off to London! go take a nap!), we can take a step back and survey the eclectic cast of characters who made a showing this season. Not on the sidewalk outside Lincoln Center and Milk Studios (enough of you so-called street-style stars), but on the runways. Here's who to look out for, and possibly fear, come Spring 2015:

Versus Versace

Who: The Sexed-Up (and Possibly Coked-Up) Rocker Babe
Where: Versus Versace
What: The unholy union of Donatella Versace and Anthony Vaccarello is such a natural one, it's almost surprising they haven't put their eerily similar, aggressively sexual, unapologetically body-conscious aesthetics together before. This girl belongs backstage at the head-banging heavy metal concerts of a bygone era, where she gets exactly what she wants using her long legs, long hair, and highly suggestive wardrobe of power blazers (don't you dare tell her to put a blouse or even a bra underneath), medallion-topped mini-dresses with skin-flashing details, and metallic-gold separates. And what does she want? Wild nights filled with satisfaction, naturally. Everyone knows the truly sexy don't need color; hence, the mostly monochrome nature of the new Versus chick's wardrobe. Black rules the night, and so does she.

Rodarte

Who: The Street-Tough Urban Mermaid
Where: Rodarte
What: Kate and Laura Mulleavy love reaping inspiration from their Southern California childhoods, and this time they reminisced on the Monterey tide pools they used to visit. Enter their mystical, hardware-loving, pavement-pounding siren. She embraces shimmer, sparkle, and sheerness, by way of tattered strips of chiffon and wide fishnet overlays, ripped-to-shreds silk and chunky sequin clusters. When dressing up, she opts for ethereal dresses with a collaged, almost haphazard breed of whimsy, but she's not a total girly-girl (some of the pieces even have custom Rodarte bottle tops and soda-can tabs hanging from them). When her mood strikes the flipside, she's got a swashbuckling alter ego, one who walks hard in her wide-lace, thigh-high boots (perfect for wearing over super-skinny pants), embellished military jackets, and enthusiastically ruffled tops. Sure, she's no Captain Hook, but that doesn't mean her metal-and-leather belt can't double as a fish-spearing weapon.

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Who: The Androgynous Club-Crawling Raver Kid
Where: Marc by Marc Jacobs
What: Well, it's official. It's been so long since the actual '90s took place, ravers are back and they are serving as the inspiration for Luella Bartley's and Katie Hillier's second collection for MBMJ, aka Marc by Marc Jacobs. Warehouse parties, get excited. This kid adores Björk, the East London club scene, and has no desire to look sexy, at least not in the traditional sense of the word. Instead, she prefers to steal oversized skater T-shirts from the guys and mash them into her bandeau tops and bustiers for a belly-baring effect that makes you raise an eyebrow, and keep her glossy latex (the designers even enlisted fetish professionals House of Harlot to produce it) relegated to a few mere flashes, via polka-dot skirts or layered beneath tees and asymmetric kooky-girly dresses. She doesn't even need to carry a bag. Instead, the hefty supply of pockets on her flight suit and anorak jackets keeps her going-out essentials safe. Her vibe is a little dark, almost dangerous. That is, until you catch sight of the teeny pixie-ish knots of hair atop her head. No, she's not so edgy after all.

Jeremy Scott

Who: The Psychedelic Wild Child Who Was Barely Born in the '90s But Wishes She Was Alive in the '60s
Where: Jeremy Scott
What: Jeremy Scott is very good at applying bad taste, and with Miley Cyrus helping out with accessories (look out for "Dirty Hippie" party hats), his youthful, "screw you, fashion" aesthetic is at an all-time high. This girl pops tabs of acid and pills of ecstasy (because they didn't have molly in the '90s), dances at Burning Man, and tears up the strobe-lit after-hours club like it's no big thing. She performs her favorite activities while wearing flower-powered babydoll dresses, hyperactive Doc Martens, marble-print bike shorts, tie-dyed tees, beaded leis, and crop tops fit for a five-year-old, all in shades that complete the spectrum of the Day Glo rainbow. She is Lady Miss Kier meets your old Delia's catalog on crack meets the kid who smears glow-in-the-dark bodypaint all over your face at your next party. Oh, and she loves Shrek. As in, the cartoon ogre with Mike Meyers' voice.

Alexander Wang Spring 2015 Collection: Commercial Artiste or Appropriator Extraordinaire?

2014-09-10T09:26:00.000-07:00

Looks from the Spring 2015 collection

In 2005, Alexander Wang, a recent attendee of Parsons, launched his own knitwear label, a line of slouchy cashmere sweaters in possession of the cool factor. Two years later, his ready-to-wear officially arrived, via Fall 2007 New York fashion week, and critics praised the promise of the 23-year-old's sloppy, streetwise aesthetic, sure to appeal to party girls and downtown socialites. That it did, and then some.

Looks from the Fall 2007 collection

By the time he debuted the next season, model Iekeliene Stange was describing Wang's line as "exactly what I want to wear,"and countless other girls agreed. It didn't hurt that his friend-turned-muse Erin Wasson was acting as stylist with her rugged, unfussy eye. Wang himself described his inspiration as the "M.O.D." aka, duh, the Model Off-Duty. Guess what? It went in his favor, big time. At that moment, nobody was really doing unabashed, approachable streetwear for girls, equal parts sexy, tough, slinky, and tomboyish.

The Spring 2007 collection

The appeal was in the ease; the message was it's okay to be a little messy, a little disheveled. Actually, it's preferable. Better yet, these clothes weren't pretending to be anything they were not, and Wang wasn't claiming to be an super-serious, acutely studied fashion designer, or at least no one was treating him as such.

For Fall 2008, the smoky runway's beanie hats, shredded sheer tights, and scrunched socks felt just as integral as the oversized blazers and purposely fucked-up take on tailoring. It might have been an obvious interpretation of urban edge, but it was also a solid one. The looks succeeded in feeling badass because there was something genuine about the place they came from. Wang simply was looking at his friends and asking them what they wanted to wear.

The Fall 2008 collection

It is possible that Spring 2009 marked Wang's apex, at least for those of us who prefer the "old Alex" to the new, arguably overly ambitious, "grown-up" guard, one that has seen him moonlighting in Paris as the - gasp! - replacement for the brilliant and nuanced Nicholas Ghesquière at Balenciaga. It was the first time he showed color, and he executed hue, which included South Beach-inspired pastels and brights, in a hard, distinctly un-feminine manner that few could do so successfully.

The Spring 2009 collection

The collection also marked the beginning of his long-lasting relationship with athletic wear. What seemed like a fling has evolved into a recurring appropriation, from oversized sweatshirts all the way to football couture, as seen in the touchdown Spring '10 collection that marked a milestone in the evolution of Alexander. When discussing it, he said, "We want to create clothes that are timeless and classic. Our girl wants investment pieces."

The Spring 2010 collection

Those words said it all. It was only a matter of time before he felt the need to branch out from sports bras, hip-flashing trousers, and draped mini-dresses made for wearing into the early morning hours. Ambitious early-twentysomethings grow up, and more power to Alexander for always pursuing the next level. But when someone pushes forward with such gusto, it's often inevitable they mimic their predecessors. While his Spring 2015 collection is garnering rave reviews from fellow critics, one can't help but be struck with a feeling (if only a vague one) of déjà vu.

Left: Alexander Wang Spring 2015 look; right: Christopher Kane Spring 2007 look

Left: Christopher Kane Resort 2010 look; right: Alexander Wang Spring 2015 look

Yes, it's technically astute and showcases a wise interpretation of the almost-out-of-control current sneaker trend, and yes, it seamlessly blends the wardrobe of a fully formed, fully grown woman and a speed-hungry adrenaline junkie, and yes, these are really nice clothes that girls already want to wear. But if the influence of past designs from Helmut Lang, Narciso Rodriguez, and Christopher Kane don't come to mind, well, then you ought to brush up on your recent fashion history.

Left: Alexander Wang Spring 2015 look; right: Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2013 look

Left: Helmut Lang Spring 2005 look; right: Alexander Wang Spring 2015 look

One-trick pony the designer is not, but I'm still gravely unconvinced that he is a pit of endless creativity. On the contrary, Wang does a few things and he does those things well. Let's stop pretending he does a whole lot more. Anyway, growing up can be overrated.

The Reinvention of Coach: From Trite to Semi-Twisted

2014-09-09T09:18:00.002-07:00

Opening looks from the Spring 2015 collection

What's in a name? Or the name of a brand, for that matter? Even though Reed Krakoff spent a whopping 18 years working to revive Coach as their executive creative director, nothing the accessories-focused designer did could shake the image of suburban preteens and uninspired twenty-somethings with their logo-stamped wristlet clutches and miniature shoulder bags, likely snapped up at the local outlet mall, smugly on display (often accompanied by "going-out" tops and ill-fitting, semi-bootcut jeans). At least, not for me. The company's chairman said upon Krakoff's departure, "His contribution in evolving Coach from a house of American leather goods to a leading international accessories is immeasurable," but what does that even mean, anyway, other than he made the brand a lot more money?

From left: Gwyneth Paltrow in September 2011, Eva Longoria in November 2011, and Zoe Saldana in March 2006, all carrying Coach

At one time, Coach bags were cool, but for the better part of the last several decades, they were for those who either did not know better or who did not care to know better. At best, the label produced some simplistic leather bucket bags that could be carried with success, as long as savvy styling and a sense of irony were also in tow.

Looks from the Fall 2014 collection

Enter a new era: the British Stuart Vevers, formerly of Loewe and Mulberry, replaced Reed Krakoff in time for Fall 2014 fashion week, and the change he brought was delightfully drastic. When initially asked what makes Coach unique, Vevers' response was its undeniable Americanness. His takeover has proven we don't know Coach. He moved to New York City to take the job, and the influence of the sometimes exhausting and often invigorating city, complete with trying winter weather, was evident in his first collection.

Street-treading skins, high-protection shearling, toggle coats to hide out in, and blanket-heavy plaid prints sent the message: a brand is only as dull as its director, and preconceived notions can be washed away with little more than a tuft of leather fringe, a few pairs of lug-soled boots, and some laidback styling (nothing says, "I don't give a shit," like a giant, toasty coat and bare legs).

Looks from the Spring 2015 collection

Jacketys that look swiped right out of Fraggle Rock, leather and patent miniskirts in popsicle colors, and funky magnified leopard prints: for his second collection, Vevers reaped inspiration from David Lynch films and Patricia Arquette as Alabama Whitman in True Romance. The result isn't merely fun yet quirky clothes that hint at the spontaneous thrill of a freewheeling road trip. It's a mood that's seasoned with London street style (it's also not dissimilar from the recent tone at Mulberry: pastel-laden, offbeat, high-energy) and founded upon the youthful's illogical reasoning. Who other than the young (aside from the crazy) would rationalize pairing summery slide-on sandals with a fuzzy, furry, hooded overcoat?

California-based artist and animator Gary Baseman etched the cartoon creatures emblazoned on the tees and sweaters, and they could serve as an analogy for the whole collection. At first glance, it's innocent, playful, and frothy, but look a little closer, and this friskiness isn't saccharine but slightly sour. Like the pretty blonde girl who catches you off-guard by cursing like a sailor and telling the raunchiest joke you've ever heard. But perhaps Vevers describes it best; when discussing the collection's leisure suit-meets-'90s-inspired flared pants, he said they possess the "twisted nostalgic feel that is, in essence, what this collection is all about."

Looks from the Spring 2015 collection

On Our Radar: The Frosted Lip

2014-08-21T08:25:00.001-07:00

It was only a matter of time. After the comeback of Vamp and all colors in its bordeaux family (one could argue Vamp never really went away, but I digress), followed by the onslaught of raisin-brown lips (extra points for liner!), the next natural step in "what goes around comes around" lipstick trends consists of one key word: Frosted.

RiRi puts her "style icon" to the test by challenging the power duo of acid-lime curls and a frosted mocha mouth.

More notorious than applauded and more mocked than copied, the shimmer lip is not for everyone, to say the least. However, just glance to the upcoming release of Rihanna's latest collaboration with MAC: Viva Glam Rihanna 2, which follows a heady red, for an indication of its prowess. It's a shade of unapologetic "frosted metallic mauve," in lipstick ($16) and lip glass ($15) form.

Viva Glam Rihanna 2 lipstick and lip glass hit stores September 11.

The key is delivering your look with a healthy dose of camp (and probably after applying your latest round of teeth-whitening strips. Nothing brings out a less-than-pearly smile like some light shimmer). You simply can't act all dead-serious when attempting this look. And that should be the fun of it.

Obviously, Rihanna's not the first to take it on. From bubble-gum pink to not-so nude, here's a look at some other ice queens who illustrate you can, indeed, inject some heat into any shade of frost:

Daria Werbowy rocks the frosty pink lip on the beach in the July 2013 issue of Vogue Spain

And shocker, she proves she can work a pale pink lip with a wet suit, embroidered blazer, and ultra-reflective lenses.

Clearly, Pamela Anderson enjoyed employing sheer frosted gloss over liner (our bet it was the beloved MAC shade Spice) back in her '90s heyday.

Model Hanna Wahmer looking glamorously retro - and incredibly dewy - for the July 2012 issue of Vogue Taiwan

Swinging London icon and '60s supermodel Jean Shrimpton was one of the first to unleash the frost on the masses

Models working light shimmer and hefty color backstage at Zac Posen's Spring 2010 ready-to-wear show

Makeup artist Stephanie Marais described the models as, "A mix of Degas ballerinas and Jean Shrimpton from the 1960s. Graceful and delicate like a watercolor painting, colors blended like hydrangeas."

Trend-Spotting: Balenciaga Iconic Low-Rise Trousers

2014-08-20T11:26:00.002-07:00

The Piece: Out of one of Nicholas Ghesquière's acclaimed collections for Balenciaga, these soft blue tonal-striped trousers are like flared jeans but better. They have just a few more discreet details, and therefore, lots more appeal. With an easy, low-slung fit and a front seam, they also possess a vaguely nautical feel that is spot-on for fall. Available now for $188.

Karlie Kloss making her lengthy stems look even longer in Paris

The Trend: From the originals, like Jane Birkin, to the updaters, like Karlie Kloss, low-slung flares are a timeless staple for those who enjoy the path less traveled, as well as a little swing in their steps. There's no denying you walk a little differently when wearing bell-bottomed pants: it's a pop in the hip and swagger in the strut. So it's no surprise that flared, sea-faring jeans are being lauded as one of the number-one denim trends for Fall '14.

Jane Birkin igniting denim envy in her favorite patchwork flares

Meredith Melling-Burke modeling an ideal example of the Canadian tuxedo (left); Jane Birkin modeling an ideal example of DGAF chic with slouchy jeans and insane accessories (right)

How to Style It: You can go a number of ways with these (that's the beauty of this cut), as long as you stick to one essential mood: free and casual. The less fuss, the better, so feel liberated to accessorize with offbeat accessories, pump them up with platforms, and mix it up with a mismatched denim shirt or a cropped sweater. Just keep the attitude light and your hair perfectly imperfect.

Below, from left: Isabel Marant Klaude perforated leather belt ($280), Comme des Garçons cropped sweater ($465), Catherine Michiels beaded necklace, $141, Alterna Bamboo Style Boho Waves Tousled Texture Mist ($19)

Viva la Schiaparelli: Fall 2014 Couture and What Came Before

2014-08-19T11:18:00.003-07:00

Schiaparelli Fall 2014 Couture looks

The house of Elsa Schiaparelli made an at-long-last return for Fall 2013 Haute Couture Week, with fellow eccentric Christian Lacroix paying homage to the designer with an 18-outfit tribute, before he returned right back to his work in the theater. But it was the next season that marked a true milestone: Marco Zanini, formerly of Rochas, was appointed to officially resurrect the house and the results were hugely successful.

Schiaparelli Fall 2014 Couture looks

Zanini understands Schiaparelli, from her passion for color to to her contradictory nature to her ever-present sense of humor. "She was a delicate paradox," he observed, "the epitome of elegance with a certain taste that wasn't very elegant. She was the first to mix high and low."

Schiaparelli Fall 2014 Couture looks

It's his second couture collection, for Fall 2014, that firmly cements Zanini's place in Schiaparelli's tight-knit world. He embraced the surreal, via bleeding, arrow-shot hearts of Lesage embroidery; he gave a wink and a grin, with an ornate take on the classic paper party hat; he revised the notion of the animal print, replacing usual leopard spots (as seen in the first look) and zebra stripes with "Central Park" squirrels and rats (set in playful purple on an otherwise sophisticated evening gown) and flapping pigeons (some with sequin-accented eyes). Most vitally, Zanini was unafraid to go all-out and unapologetically so. The attitude gave way to a sense of "I don't care what you think" exuberance rarely seen these days.

Schiaparelli Fall 2014 Couture looks

Eighty years prior, Time magazine featured Elsa Schiaparelli on their 1934 cover and wrote of her: "Madder and more original than most of her contemporaries, Mme Schiaparelli is the one to whom the word genius is applied most often." Born in 1890, by the age of 14, she had written a book of poems entitled Arethusa that scandalized her family (and got her sent to convent school). This merely marked the first of the many moments in which she would elicit shock, awe, and surprise from her audiences and onlookers, from introducing zippers to high fashion to inventing sheer, brightly colored stockings.

Portrait of Elsa Schiaparelli (left); Schiaparelli posing next to a Vespa (right)

The Rivalry: It's no secret that Coco Chanel and Schiap (as she was known to friends) were bona fide rivals, as they both sought to be Paris' number-one designer. Chanel called her "that Italian artist who makes clothes," while Schiaparelli simply called her "that milliner." While many credited her as being bolder and far more innovative than Chanel, Schiaparelli was far less successful in the post-World War II years, with her house going bankrupt and closing its doors in 1954.

Schiaparelli in 1931 (left); one of her elaborate evening gown designs (right)

The Surrealists: Schiaparelli is one of the few designers credited with inducting Surrealism into the realm of fashion. Influenced by artists like Man Ray and Jean Cocteau, her first foray was with her tromp l'oeil sweaters in 1927, including the "Faux Bow" sweater, which kicked off her revolution. In 1935, she unleashed chintz beach hats that resembled folded newspapers (inspired by the old women in the Copenhagen fish markets who wore actual newspapers on their heads).

The "Faux Bow" sweater (left); the "Lobster Dress" (right)

The following year, she synced up with Salvador Dalí and designed a "chest-of-drawers" suit, inspired by his painting Anthropomorphic Cabinet; they also collaborated on the "Lobster Dress" and the "Skull Dress," which was evocative of the dark time leading up to World War II. Other notable creations: a bracelet that resembled a goldfish, down to the coiled tail; a suit with lip-shaped pockets; a hat made to look like curled-up, upside-down shoe.

The "Skull Dress" (left); the "Shoe Hat" (right)

Model Guinevere Van Seenus wearing Schiaparelli's shocking-pink dress (Fall 1937) in Vogue magazine, May 2012

Shocking Pink: April 1937 was the moment Schiaparelli truly shocked, at least in the literal sense of the word. Her shocking pink hue, for which she is still famed (just look to the NARS lipstick and nail polish colors, naturally named Schiap), and Shocking perfume were both introduced. The bottle was fashioned in the sensuous shape of an hourglass, based on the dressmaker's dummy she used when creating the costumes for Mae West in the film Every Day's a Holiday. (She would go on to create Sleeping blue and Stunning red.)

Illustration of a Schiaparelli design, cover of Vogue, 1934 (left); advertisement for Shocking de Schiaparelli scent, 1953

Just keep in mind, it was Schiaparelli who said, "The moment people stop copying you, you have ceased to be news." Needless to say, Elsa Schiaparelli continues to be news.

NARS Schiaparelli-inspired colors, out of their Iconic Collection

An Education: W Magazine Goes Back to School

2014-08-15T13:53:00.001-07:00

The September issue of W Magazine is out, and in honor of the back-to-school season, power duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott decided to send supermodels like Daria Werbowy, Kate Moss, Raquel Zimmerman, and Lara Stone to Fashion High, so to speak.

The dress code at their fantasy boarding school? Apparently, mini skirts (including Saint Laurent, IRO, Christopher Kane, and Versace), bra tops (see Kiki de Montparnasse and VPL), combat boots (Doc Martens make a strong showing), lumberjack checks and classic plaids (a la Isabel Marant and Tommy Hilfiger), and sleek turtlenecks (look to Ralph Lauren Black Label). Think London prep with a gothic edge. Thoroughly early-to mid nineties, very "smoking under the bleachers."

A spread like this feels right because no matter how old you get, the mere word "September" still conjures up those first-day jitters and the feeling that summer's doom is fast impending. Such an editorial softens the blow, at least a bit. Check out the spread below, and see how it measures up against a selection of other fictional high school moments:

The Craft (1996)

Clueless (1995)

The Breakfast Club (1985)

Heathers (1988)

Fast Times at Ridgemont High (1982)

Need Now: Bernhard Willhelm Scarf-Print Cocktail Dress

2014-08-14T13:12:00.001-07:00

The Piece: This silk Bernhard Willhelm cocktail dress, out of the Spring 2001 collection, showcases a classic scarf print in a leopard, leaf, and rope motif, knot-front detailing for maximum draping, and a raw hem. Available now for $500.

The Runway: Never one to go for the obvious or literal, Bernhard Willhelm made a strong and unique statement when they sent their red lipstick-wearing, sock-and-kitten heel-pump-sporting models down the Spring 2001 runway. These were innocent little homemakers, out of the late 1930s and early 1940s, with a wildly eccentric twist (and possibly a dark side), with sex appeal that was intellectual, offbeat, and anything but typical.

The References: Think Michelle Pfeiffer in Scarface, all sleek evening slink and hearty femininity ever-so tainted with an air of hedonism. Think the quintessential patterns of Hermès' famed silk scarves. Think the glorious tackiness of Roberto Cavalli's unapologetic animal prints and dramatic silhouettes. Think the heat of Art Deco-inspired retro Miami, Florida. This is old-school, retro glamour with a distinctly modern twist.

Above: Michelle Pfeiffer as Elvira Hancock in 1983's Scarface, a selection of Hermès scarves; below: various Roberto Cavalli campaigns, shots of vintage Miami

How to Style It: Dress for excess! The key is acknowledging the sheer irony of such a decadent print, without making a mockery of an undeniably sensual dress (the silk is so fluid, it looks like liquid). Offset the warm palette with a rich orange-red lip, courtesy of Dior's Rouge Dior lipstick in Trafalgar ($34), and smoke out your lids with Dolce & Gabbana's Eyeshadow Quad in Femme Fatale ($60). Then add some height with Prada's black suede platform sandals ($850), in a silhouette that's equal parts avant-garde and vintage-inspired. The final touch? A chunky bracelet with a sculptural edge, like Lele Sadoughi's gold-plated Arcade cuff ($415).

Throwback Thursday: Cutoffs Through the Ages

2014-08-14T12:48:00.002-07:00

The cutoff jean short: a longstanding symbol of deeply casual living, freedom to wear as much or little as you like, and relatively wholesome sex appeal. As all-American as apple pie (or should I say cherry? More on that later), Levi's are the obvious classic. But since rising to acceptability and consequent popularity in the late 1960s, hacked-off dungarees come in all brands, lengths, and personas, including the girl next door, bona fide bad girl, gritty rocker, modern femme fatale, and irresponsible rebel.

By 1966 and right into Woodstock three years later, everything was getting repurposed, especially old, ripped jeans.

Deena Martin, Michelle Burke, Joey Lauren Adams, and Parker Posey play tough in Dazed and Confused.

While the film came out in 1993, it famously takes place in the summer of 1976, aka prime Levi's cutoffs time. A perfect pairing with a "Seniors" sweatshirt.

Catherine Bach as Daisy Duke on The Dukes of Hazzard, 1979-1985

The origin of her itty-bitty jean shorts may have been a desire to beat the Southern heat, but the effect was a whole lot of attention. Needless to say, the nickname stuck.

Bob Weir, rhythm guitarist for the Grateful Dead, rocked short cutoff jean shorts throughout the '80s and '90s.

Lookups "Weirs" on UrbanDictionary.com and the definition reads: "a pair of very short shorts worn by a ale in the style of Grateful Dead guitarist Bobby Weir. Normally attired during the summer months and accompanied with a tank top."

Video vixen and rock-star girlfriend Bobbie Brown starred in Warrant's "Cherry Pie" video in 1990.

In her memoir Dirty Rocker Boys, Brown described the experience of filming: "I feel the heat of the stage lights on me and there's a radio playing in the background...Every eye in the room is on me, and I love it."

Drew Barrymore in Poison Ivy in 1992 (left) and on downtime during the same era

Remember the old Drew? Her style revolved around an explosion of slightly gelled blonde curls, piled-on silver trinkets, a downturned mouth, and of course, cutoffs.

Cindy Crawford in a Pepsi commercial in 1992

At Crawford's arguable peak, she exuded American-bombshell cool. And she made soda look sexy.

Chloé Spring 2000 runway show

Call it the success of shock value. There's something particularly jarring about spotting a pair of tush-revealing cutoffs on a reputable runway, but that was part of the gutsy brilliance of Stella McCartney's reign at Chloé.

Gisele Bündchen, featured in the July/August 2008 issue of V Magazine

Few could make overtly tacky, shredded-to-bits, butt cleavage-spotlighting, and thoroughly Euro-trashed shorts look chic, but, well, it's Gisele.

Let's Stretch Out Summer!

2014-08-13T12:58:00.002-07:00

Not so fast, people. Even though it is everyone's instinctive tendency to proclaim summer to be over mid-way through July, the freest, most unfettered season has not yet come to a close. And it doesn't end as of Labor Day, either. Despite what the world says, summer isn't officially over until the solstice on September 21st. So until then, live it up! Run free, in cutoff jean shorts that are on their last leg and sneakers that make you feel as bouncy as a little kid, with your hair breeze-blown and salty, your mouth capriciously bright, and your eyes at once smoky and oceanic.

With that, here's some summer style inspiration, followed by some of the best products for achieving mermaid hair, blazing-hot lips, deep-sea eyes, and skin that looks like the sun gave it a soft air kiss (as opposed to a sunburnt open-mouth smooch):

1. VMV Hypoallergenics Know-It-Oil ($26)

Coconut oil has been getting a lot of attention lately, and for good reason. But instead of wasting this top-notch, 100% USDA-certified organic virgin coconut oil by swishing it around in your mouth, apply this as a rich moisturizer all over your body and hair, too.

2. Tom Ford Beauty Lip Color in Wild Ginger ($50) or NARS Semi-Matte Lipstick in Heat Wave ($26)

Both colors pack a punch that's a little bit orange, a little bit red, and a whole lot of energy. Genius with bronzy, glowing, slightly shimmering skin, for a "I just slapped this lipstick on for dinner after a long day rolling around in the sand."

3. Dolce & Gabbana Beauty Crayon Intense Eyeliner in Emerald ($30) or Marc Jacobs Beauty Highliner Gel Eye Crayon in Ody(Sea) ($25)

After rimming your eyes in black liner (whether it's a rich kohl pencil or eyeshadow applied as liner with a thin, angled brush), swipe one of these on top or simply along the inner edges of your eyes and blend for a hint of exoticism that speaks of a life by the seashore.

4. Oribe Après Beach Wave and Shine Spray ($39)

Many brands make beach-wave spray (Bumble and Bumble is heralded for the favorite original), but none smell as good or make you feel as luxurious - in a bohemian kind of way, of course - as the fine mist produced by Oribe. Beware: pressing the nozzle is vaguely addictive, so you're likely to finish a bottle sooner than you should.

5. Nuxe Multi-Purpose Dry Oil for Face, Body, and Hair ($39)

Have fantasies of frolicking in the South of France? Get one step closer with the help of this Vitamin E-enriched dry oil. Normally, stuff that makes your skin shimmer brings to mind products of the Victoria's Secret variety, but this just makes you feel like a sexy sun kitten.

Trend-Spotting: Mod-ern Love

2014-08-12T12:55:00.002-07:00

The Trend: The Fall 2014 collections reveal a particular sense of nostalgia for a bygone era: the Swinging Sixties continue to offer endless inspiration to current-day designers. While there's nothing new about referencing the dolly-bird dress, the initial rise of the miniskirt, or anything Twiggy-related, this year, it's more about the subtle hint than an all-out throwback. Think relegating it to an A-line angle or an element of minimalism.

Nicholas Ghesquière made an unsurprising splash at Louis Vuitton with a debut that juxtaposed a perfectly retro silhouette with hyper-modern techniques and uncompromising craftmanship, while Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent imbued his typical rock 'n' roll angle, complete with glitter and jet-black eyelids (no one ever said his work at the house has been original, that's for sure). Valentino reveled in bouncy, buoyant, bright prints inspired by Italian Pop art; Tom Ford payed homage to the slinky, groggy, pre-psychedelic babes of London's mid-'60s, with the help of monochrome black velvet; and the house of Paco Rabanne, who was the original l'enfant terrible of the '60s French fashion world, harked back to their iconic spirit.

From left: Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Tom Ford, Paco Rabanne

The Pieces: There's no need to invest in major pieces from the new-season runways to appropriate the look for yourself. Obviously, there's no more authentic way to channel vintage-era appeal than with a true vintage dress, whether it's from the first era or a later generation. Here, three different ways (and silhouettes) to wear the trend:

1. This rare Stephen Sprouse piece blends gray-and-black-contrast paneling with a lightly body-sculpting fit for a sensual take on the mod mood. Dress it up with structured pumps or turn it down with a pair of chunky Chelsea boots. Circa 1990s. Available now for $490.

2. Few executed color like Gianni Versace, and his electrifying royal-purple shift is no exception. A neck-to-sleeve zipper detail completes this layer-ready tunic's sense of mod-inspired ease. Set it off against matte-black tights, once the temperature drops, and a searing bright lip to show you really don't shy away from color. Circa 1990s. Available now for $398.

3. Geoffrey Beene's drop-waist dress comes in a glimmering navy knit, and delivers ample amounts of swing, for a refined take on sweater dressing. Toss a heated leather motorcycle jacket over it to throw off the feminine glittery texture. Circa 1960s. Available now for $248.

The New "Me" Generation: Selfies, Selfishness, and the Unending Desire for Instant Gratification

2014-08-05T12:35:00.000-07:00

The fact that the word "selfie" is not only now in our everyday vernacular but also in the dictionary says it all. We are living in an age when children to grandparents and especially everyone in between is totally comfortable announcing they want attention and they want it now. From Instagram "likes" to Facebook friends (though it's clear Facebook is at the end of the race here) to Twitter retweets, we seem to have answered the age-old forest/tree question. Indeed, if no one sees you smiling with your friends...or popping bottles in Ibiza or looking hot in your bikini on the beach or eating your blueberry-topped oatmeal for breakfast, it may as well have not happened. And what good is doing something, even if it's literally just living your life, if you're not getting credit for it? Apparently, none at all.

Self-portraits were once reserved for photographers like Cindy Sherman and fine artists on a quest for deeper introspection. No more. In honor of the unapologetically (and often sickeningly) self-absorbed, contentedly, comically voyeuristic world we live in, where those who reign on social media ("How many followers do you have?") are instantaneously named king, and already-made celebrities are still at the top of the totem pole, here is a mini-retrospective of "selfies," from conscious commentary to the commented upon:

"Meiselpic" by Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia, December 2009

"Selfie Absorbed" by Emmer Summerton for W Magazine, March 2014

Miscellaneous celebrity selfies (self-taken and otherwise), via Instagram and Twitter

Lindsay Lohan

Rihanna

Amanda Bynes

Candice Swanepoel

Demi Moore

Miley Cyrus

Jessica Simposon

Cara Delevingne

Kim Kardashian

Taylor Swift and Hailee Steinfeld

"Pillow Tweets" by Mert & Marcus for W Magazine, March 2014

The Commencement of Kate: From Corinne Day to Calvin Klein

2014-08-04T13:23:00.000-07:00

Before Kate Moss turned 16, her toothy grin and crinkled nose were on the cover of The Face. Kate and Corinne met on a casting in 1990, and shortly after they were creating soon-to-be-historic images in Camber Sands. It was self-taught Corinne Day, once quoted as saying, "I just do what I love, and I don't really care what anyone else thinks," who discovered Kate and launched her career.

Three years later, Day photographed Kate for her first Vogue UK cover, the March 1993 issue, followed by June's Vogue UK story, entitled "Under-exposure." The mood was light, airy, soft, sheer, and quietly feminine, Kate's bare porcelain face set off by lacy underthings, ice cream-shop pastel streetwear, and deliberately un-styled hair.

The below image is undeniably the most iconic, with Kate in a Liza Bruce tank top and Hennes (a brand now known as H&M) underwear. Corinne later noted she shot it when Kate had been crying after a fight with her then-boyfriend. Controversy ensued: hello, "heroin-chic" and accusations of an unhealthily thin body.

"She used to deliberately walk away from the camera, and wait for the model to start fidgeting and get bored. Really, she'd be keeping one eye on them all the time, waiting for them to put their fingers out in a funny way or pull a face, and then she'd click. It was about capturing people being themselves, and Corinne saw that as beautiful." -Neil Moodie, hairstylist and Corinne's longtime friend

A year before the Vogue cover, Kate landed her big Calvin Klein contract. "The big girls were there — Cindy, Nadja. And then Kate Moss walked in. She put on this beige chiffon slip dress, and it just fell on her body. I got goose bumps. We all knew we were witnessing one of those fashion moments." -Nian Fish, publicist for KCD

"Despite the storm that erupted over Kate Moss' thin and 'unshapely' physique, which some critics called borderline anorexic — complex issue, wrong target — she found a champion in Klein." -Vanity Fair, "Calvin to the Core," April 2008

""With advertising, people respond very quickly, and you can measure it very easily. We just saw the sales take off. They were sick of fake boobs." -Calvin Klein

That wasn't the end of Calvin's tryst with controversy. Obviously the brand was so pleased with the history made with young Kate, they were determined to keep it going. In 1995 , he attempted to recreate it with Steven Meisel's grungy, basement rec room-set ads (apparently inspired by a shoot Meisel had recently done for L'Uomo Vogue).
They weren't just maligned as "kiddie porn" by many. The Clinton White House administration spoke up, with Bill calling them "outrageous" and Hillary saying they "pushed the envelope of gratuitous sex and exploitation of children," and the photos were investigated by the FBI under suspicion. The Justice Department eventually concluded "no laws had been broken."

But nearly two decades later, with Moss' career (and persona) still thriving, these are little more than moments in time, representative of a somewhat more innocent era now passed.

Current Mood: Models Who Love Vintage

2014-08-01T13:27:00.004-07:00

It's no surprise high-profile models are often lauded for their killer personal style. Frequently serving as muses to the designers with whom they work (a classic give-and-take relationship in which both parties tend to win), they have access to awesome clothes before we plebs can even thinking about buying them at full retail price. Additionally, many are as close with stylists and other helpful tastemakers as they are their designer pals.

That's why it requires a special breed of model to seamlessly blend top-of-the-line, new-season designer wares with vintage finds and unique scores. Let's pay homage to the ladies who know not to take fashion too seriously and who have cultivated their own brand of the high-low, old-new, offbeat-and-semi-chic mash-up...because style is nonexistent if it's not unique. Who's your favorite?

Abbey Lee Kershaw: The Witchy Woman

Erin Wasson: The Nouveau Hippie Chick

Cara Delevingne: The Urban Wild Child

Hanne Gaby Odiele: The Wacky Risk-Taker

Anja Rubik: The Dark Horse

Kate Moss: The Eternal It-Girl

Throwback Thursday: She's With the Band

2014-07-31T13:21:00.003-07:00

Kate Hudson as Penny Lane in Almost Famous

Known for hanging around (and having sex with) famous men, the groupie, aka band aid, is something of a lost character, a seductive, often sloppy creature out a bygone era, what would seem to be rock 'n' roll myth. A sexist situation? Of course. But let's put that aside for the moment, if only for the sake of glamorizing a past we are all likely too young to fully grasp.

Their true heyday: the late sixties to late seventies, when the music was fresh, roaring, raucous, and pulse-quickening. Their loves: lavish hotel rooms, a freewheeling life on the move (sure to get old fast for less hearty types) and fringes, drugs both hard and soft, a high degree of shock value, lots of attention. Their purpose: to provide all the comforts and benefits of a girlfriend and none of the nagging annoyance inevitably delivered in the package of a "real" relationship. Their style: whether copping goods from their stage-swaggering guys or inversely, inspiring their looks, it was as wild and uninhibited as their hijinks, at once referencing and personifying glam rock, pre-grunge, tomboy grit, bad-girl edge, stereotypical "slut," and disheveled appeal.

Here, a selection of those who could hang with the best of them (or worst of them, depending on how you look at it):

Lori Maddox

Her Guys: Jimmy Page, David Bowie

Sable Starr

Her Guys: Iggy Pop, Jimmy Page, David Bowie, allegedly others

Bebe Buell

Her Guys: Steven Tyler, Elvis Costello, Rod Stewart, John Taylor, Todd Rundgren, Mick Jagger

Pamela Des Barres

Her Guys: Jim Morrison, Mick Jagger, Jimmy Page, Keith Moon, Nick St. Nicholas, Gram Parsons

Need Now: Comme des Garçons Play Breton Striped T-Shirt

2014-07-30T14:05:00.003-07:00

The Piece: Trust Comme des Garçons Play to put an offbeat and yes, playful spin on an iconic wardrobe staple. This all-cotton crew-neck T-shirt, as seen on Frida Gustavsson and Diane Kruger (below), features a vaguely boxy fit and lightly cropped long sleeves for a modern update on the timeless Breton striped shirt.

The Backstory: On March 27^th, 1858, the Act of France introduced the striped Breton shirt as we still know it today. Originally known as marinière or matelot, the navy and white-striped knitted shirt was the uniform for all navy seamen in Brittany. The bold pattern was easy to spot on the waves, and it featured precisely 21 stripes, one for each of Napoleon’s victories.

By 1889, it was manufactured by Bretagne, Tricots Saint James, and towards the close of the 19^th century, it became popular with Breton workers because it was so easy and practical.

The Evolution: Out with the Belle Epoque and in with beachy sportswear: In 1917, the inimitable Coco Chanel (above, left), inspired by the glamorous seaside resort city of Deauville in Normandy (where she frequently vacationed with her lover, Boy Capel, and opened her second boutique), made the shirt fashionable by introducing it in her nautical collection. She paired it with long, flared trousers, and the look projected a sunny, south-of-France breed of ease. By the 1930s, women in the know were sporting it with cravats, blazers, and shorts.

The Outcome: From Rebel Without a Cause to the French New Wave and far beyond, the shirt's been worn by Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot, Edie Sedgwick, James Dean, Pablo Picasso, Jean Seberg, and Audrey Hepburn, as well as '80s-era Madonna and much-copied women in the 2000s, like Kate Moss, Alexa Chung, Emmanuelle Alt, and Ulyana Sergeenko.

Above: Brigitte Bardot, Edie Sedgwick, Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, James Dean, Jean Seberg, Madonna; below: Kate Moss, Alexa Chung, Emmanuelle Alt, Ulyana Sergeenko

The shirt has also been reinterpreted by the houses of Balmain, Meadham Kirchhoff, Clements Ribeiro, Junya Watanabe, and of course, Jean-Paul Gaultier (who has also made it a signature of his personal look) and reimagined in countless nautical-themed (and sometimes naughty) fashion editorials.

Below: Looks out of the Balmain Fall 2009, Jean-Paul Gaultier Spring 2013, Clements Ribeiro Spring 2010, Meadham Kirchhoff Fall 2009, and Junya Watanabe Spring 2011 Menswear collections; miscellaneous editorials

Tuesday Muses: Embrace the Heat

2014-07-29T12:15:00.000-07:00

Tips for Embracing the Heat: Take a plunge, ditch pants, don't curse the morning after, commit to white, escape to the grass, shred your denim...From white-sky morning, into the night. Find the air and suck it in, chest open, pushed into light.

Texture matters: denim is thick and rumpled, cotton fragile, lace yanked thin, colors scalding-hot or air-conditioner cool, shades over-saturated or bleached into oblivion, leather coarse and scaly, patterns clashed and disregarded

Need Now: Miu Miu Mosaic Collection Shift Dress

2014-07-28T08:49:00.000-07:00

The Piece: A lusciously fluid silk shift dress out of Miu Miu's Spring 2009 collection, it showcases a Roman tile pattern for an ancient-meets-modern mood. Think the crumbling Colloseum colliding with a languid summer sundress, high museum art blending with an easy date-night look, the toga-party frock upon receiving a dreamy upgrade.

The Collection: When she sent her collection down the runway, Miuccia explained, "It's an investigation of our history, of our European past." The result is an incredibly youthful revision of the old-school Italian mama turned art connoisseur. With a powerful mix of patterns and prints juxtaposed against pretty, airy silhouettes, equally suitable for a festive afternoon or rollicking cocktail party, the collection is deeply loyal to Miu Miu's original vision. Indeed, The New York Times has called Miu Miu "the master of the look of not-quite right."
The ad campaign featured Katie Holmes in an uncharacteristically sensual mode. Shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, it was inspired by the films of Frederico Fellini. The concept: a portrait of "a luminous female icon radiating a sense of mystery and theatricality."

How to Style It: Instead of going the expected route, with a Roman goddess-inspired, loose yet intricate updo, contrast the dress' old-world motif with sleek hair and a strong face worthy of a Helmut Newton vixen. Achieve a flawless complexion with Saint Laurent's new Fusion Ink Foundation ($60 at Barneys New York), and use Make Up For Ever's Aqua Black Waterproof Cream Eyeshadow ($22 at Sephora) to paint a heavy, deep-set, winged lid.

Tank Girls vs. Tees, Please: An Ode to Adorned Simplicity

2014-07-23T09:18:00.000-07:00

The simpler the better: We're paying homage to the two most classic and casual tops of all time, the T-shirt and the tank. While the collared button-down forever reigns as their polished big sister, tees and tanks hold their own when it comes to acting as foundations for styling. With jewels piled on top or left with a minimalist lean, roughed up (some argue the more holes, the better) or crisp and clean: there is no better way to reveal your personality than by illustrating the way you play with a plain shirt. Here, a miscellaneous mash-up of the dueling silhouettes. Which one's for you?

Current Mood: Tattoo You

2014-07-21T10:50:00.000-07:00

Charms of Comfort and Epic Etchings

Including: Henna in "Vogue-a-Porter,"Vogue Paris, February 2010/Lauren Hanawalt for "These Gray Days," off The Ones2Watch.com/Noot Seear for "Denim," Elle Italia, February 2010/Freja Beha Erichsen's lightning bolt/Rodarte Spring 2010's tribal art/Kate Moss for "The Fashion Icons," LOVE, Issue #3/some dude with Julia Nobis for "Julia Likes Metal & Making Out," Russh Australia, January/February 2010/Constance Jablonski for "Bienvenue a Gattaca,"Vogue Paris, October 2009

Need Now: Comme des Garçons Famous Bump Collection Dress

2014-07-18T06:05:00.000-07:00

The Piece: Out of Comme des Garçons' famed Spring/Summer 1997 "Dress Meets Body" collection, this iconic padded-bump knit dress is something of a study in avant-garde design. Three-dimensional, tactile, and most definitely conversation-worthy, this elevates the little black sweater dress into another realm. Available now for $598.

The Collection: Nicknamed "Lumps and Bumps" by critics, the collection received a seven-minute ovation when it was presented at Musee d'Art Afrique et D'Oceanie in Paris. When you know Rei Kawakubo's original inspiration for her Comme des Garçons label came from the concept, "The only way to make something new was to start out not wanting to make clothes," her rebellious, sculptural, creations, enlivened with voluminous, kidney-shaped pads, seem all the more intelligent and purposeful. The collection defies time, trends, and most importantly, the natural human body.

The collection also led to unique collaboration between Rei Kawakubo and leader of the modern avant-garde dance movement, Merce Cunningham. The wildly padded garments acted not only as costumes for a 1997 performance called Scenario, they became a center character in themselves.

How to Style It: This is the kind of dress that stands best on its own, with just a few strong accents to make it clear you know what you're doing - and that the dress isn't wearing you. Unadulterated confidence, a knowing smirk, and a slick pair of black ankle boots, like Givenchy's chain-topped take ($1,650 on Net-a-Porter) provide maximum swagger.

On Our Radar: 5 Cult Beauty Favorites

2014-07-17T07:43:00.000-07:00

Five products, from eternally beloved to brand-spanking new, to take you through the dog days of summer and beyond

1. Tom Ford Lip Shimmer: Lipstick lovers already rely on Mr. Ford for their obsession-worthy signature shades (Black Orchid, anyone?). Now they can add new Lip Shimmer to their oral arsenal,. A glimmering formula infused with Vitamins E and C, it's designed to be worn alone for a touch of seductive sparkle or layered on top of made-up lips for added dimension. Available in Solar Gold (above) and Moonlight at Tom Ford for $49.

2. Leonor Greyl Paris Voluforme: While this product isn't new, all it takes is a few spritzes to learn that it is almost essential (at least it makes it much easier) to attaining perfectly imperfect, tousled, textural yet smooth, naturally voluminous, beachy locks. Use it pre-styling, use it as your only form of styling, or use it as hairspray. At Leonor Greyl for $36.

3. Benefit They're Real! Push-Up Liner: While push-up bras feel quite passé, it's no surprise Benefit's new Push-Up liquid eyeliner is getting an insane amount of attention. Released at the end of June, this rubbery, click-able marker delivers idiot-proof application and a stay-put, matte finish that speaks of Sophia Lauren's and Brigitte Bardot's famous cat-eyes. At Sephora for $24.

4. RMS Beauty Cream Eyeshadow in Seduce: This is not your typical eyeshadow. Rose-Marie Swift is an organic beauty guru, and her makeup is brilliant for the anti-makeup set. This metallic, earthy brown hue is incredibly versatile; layer it endlessly with your fingertips (skip the brush) for maximum depth and contouring. At RMS Beauty for $28.

5. By Terry Tea to Tan Water Color Bronzer: Out of Terry de Gunzburg's French Riviera collection, this deems cakey powder bronzers obsolete. Designed for any complexion, just a couple drops of this radiant serum is all you need for a sun-kissed glow that speaks of a week spent frolicking in St. Tropez. Or at least a few days hanging in the Rockaways. At Space NK Apothecary for $58.