Vehicle Ride

All About Electrical Connections in Your Car

2009-05-24T14:24:00.000-07:00

Poor electrical connections are probably the most common dilemmas with cars. Whether it is your engine playing up or it is the radio in your car that is not working, it could be due to bad electrical connections. You don’t have to take your vehicle into a mechanic's store in order to determine the problem if you know what is wrong and can possibly do it yourself, especially if it is nothing but a connection difficulty. Sometimes it is something simple you could have done yourself, but you took it to the mechanic down the road and it cost you a fair amount of money.

Instead of using the term "electricity" when it comes to a vehicle, some words that are better to describe it are resistance, voltage and amperage. With voltage, just think of it as a little shove. Provide an electrical circuit with voltage and all it will do is shove the certain electrons down to the wires. For example, if your car has a battery that consists of 12 volts connecting it to an electrical system, this can be done by turning the key in the ignition. What will happen now is the voltage will stand still, and absolutely nothing further will happen. The more voltage there is, the more push is offered, and if that voltage is enough, like lightning or even spark plugs, it will even be able to jump up into the air.

An easy way to explain resistance is to say that it opposes flow. Just like driving over a pothole or into a ditch would slow down the speed of your car, electrical resistance will slow down the flow of certain amps. There are many areas of a vehicle that need resistance in order to work. The motor from the windscreen wipers need resistance so that the maximum speed at which it wipes is limited. Inside a light bulb in your car there is a high resistance thread that is able to heat up when there are amps flowing straight through it. Some car parts that have resistance in them are relays, bulbs, motors and solenoids. These are good sources of resistance, but you do get bad ones too.

Amperage, or just amps, is nothing but the flow of electrons. It is the amperage that does all of the hard work when it comes to an electrical circuit. With a vehicle, the starter motor can use anything up to 400 amps, and sometimes even more can be used when trying to start a car with a cold engine. Another one of the car parts that uses amperage is the heater fan; it can use approximately 15 amps where the defogger for the rear window will use about 20 amps. The amps will flow with no problem while there is voltage in the circuit, but if you add the resistance in all the wrong places the amperage will no longer flow as it is supposed to and will probably stop flowing all together.

Resistance may be present anywhere in an electrical circuit. It can be with the ground connection, the battery, the switches or even the power wire. In many cases the body of the vehicle as well as its frame offers the path for the correct amount of ground connection. The places in which there are most likely to be connections will be where there is also high resistance.

Ground connections play a big role in electrical connections and it is thanks to them that all electrical aspects in your vehicle can work. Some car parts use electricity while others don’t. It might also depend on your car in order to determine the type of connections that are present. Car accessories also sometimes use electrical connections; it all depends on what accessories you are interested in. Make sure your car will be able to handle these accessories before you go out and buy them. Car accessories are available in many different forms. It is up to you to decide what you like. There is something out there to suit every person and every vehicle.

Your electrical connections determine what will work in your car and what won’t. So make sure you are aware of these specifications before you go and make purchases that you might regret.

An Example of a Driveability Problem

2009-05-15T15:12:00.000-07:00

When it comes to driveability problems, know that you have something that needs to be seen to. It can cost you a lot of time as well as money, and the longer you leave the problem the worse it is going to get. It is vital that you see to it as soon as the problem arises. If you go to a mechanic store and ask the technicians what is the most difficult problem to diagnose on a vehicle and if they do not answer with noisy engines and other vibrations, squeaks and rattles, they will tell you it is driveability problems.

Compared to other car parts, driveability problems occur more often. There is a wide range of these problems. They can be anything from difficulty with transmission shifting to something as simple as starting the car. A common problem that occurs with driveability is when your vehicle hesitates when you go up to about eighty kilometers per hour. A problem like this normally seems worse when it is a hot day. Cruising steadily at a speed of approximately 80 or 90 kph will encourage the problem, but as soon as you step on the gas the car should go fine. This is a typical driveability problem.

If this has happened to your car and you take it in to be checked the sparkplugs should have been changed, the timing would have been checked, and every other routine inspection would have taken place. Then you are told that everything in your vehicle is A for away and you can hit the road again, only to be driving on a hot day again and you feel the same stumbling happening in your car. So you decide to take it to a different mechanic instead of the one that “fixed” the so called problem car parts in the first place. You tell them what is going on and also that you have taken your car in and it has recently had a service, so there shouldn’t be any further problems.

Many people think that they need to get rid of their car accessories when they take their vehicle in, but if it is a trusted dealer you are taking the vehicle to that will not be necessary. If you have problems with certain car parts, you can sometimes buy them separately and have them installed without having to go to a mechanic that will cost you extra money. So now that you have found a second mechanic to see to your problem, you take the car to them to see if they can determine the root of the problem because obviously the other mechanic couldn’t. They check everything the previous guys did and then did what they didn’t do. They monitored the car over a few days, taking it for a drive every day until they experienced the stumbling themselves. They discover that the problem stems from when the clutch is engaged in the torque of the transmission converter when you go in the range of 80kph, so the problem apparently lies in the transmission. The problem has now been diagnosed, but not solved. Now to a repair shop.

At least you know what the problem is now. Now you just have to have it repaired. No, apparently not. The mechanic at the repair shop takes the car for a test drive and he reckons that it is not the transmission but rather the engine. Now you are starting to get rather mad. After all this money spent, you still don’t have answers. So where to now? An auto technology repair centre. You get there and tell them the whole story. By now you are fuming, so they agree to sort your car out for real this time.

It is not normally the car parts that need to be seen to when one talks about driveability problems, but rather the fuel pressure. Everything in the car was re-checked for the third time; camshaft lift and timing, vacuum leaks, spark plugs and wires, cylinders, fuel injectors, you name it, everything was checked. After hundreds have been spent on all of these different mechanics, it takes one to tell you that the problem in fact was the distributor. Inside the distributor cap there was a small carbon track that had occurred from the jump of the spark plug. This is why the car would jerk and stumble when not driven fast. Problem solved, finally!

The moral of the story; do not immediately assume that your car parts are acting up and that car accessories play a part in the problem. With driveability problems you have to dig deep into the source of the problem to find where it comes from.

An Example of a Driveability Problem

2009-05-11T06:13:00.000-07:00

How To Deal With A Dead Car Battery

2009-05-08T16:10:00.000-07:00

Your battery is one of the most important parts of your car. Even if you have a great, efficient vehicle, or one that offers top performance, it's not going anywhere without a working battery. Unfortunately, leaving the lights on, or simply having too many electronic devices hooked up to a car that hasn't moved for a while could result in a dead battery. You may not discover it right away, either. One day, you put the key in the ignition, and all you get is a ticking or dragging noise, or only the lights will come on. You might have a dead battery.

Of course, there are a few other things that could be wrong, too. There are other car parts that could be the trouble. A bad alternator could cause your battery to go dead, but it's not the battery's fault, or the problem might be the starter, and not a dead car battery at all. You'll need to find out before you buy a new battery, because otherwise, it'll be a waste of money and time. If the car has simply been allowed to run down, you may also be able to jump start the vehicle and recharge the battery by running the car. Some newer vehicles, such as hybrids, cannot be jump started, so you should know your car.

In any car, the battery should be checked regularly to make sure it's working well. Cables need to be correctly connected and battery posts should be clean. If you're unable to jump start your car, you'll need to have it towed to a service station, so try everything else first. Don't just assume your battery is dead and you need a new one. There are battery chargers and similar car accessories that plug into an outlet. These can be used to fix your dead battery, or you could try jumper cables. Just make sure you follow a few basic safety precautions before doing anything with the battery.

If you're going to be working under the hood, you'll need to make sure it's secure to prevent it from falling unexpectedly. A falling hood probably won't injure you, but it can hurt! Remember to check your manual to find out the correct way to deal with your battery, especially if you'll be installing a new one. Your car manual can tell you more about what to do with your specific make and model than any general article or piece of advice from a friend. The newer and more advanced your car is, the more likely it is to have some kind of special instructions for dealing with a dead car battery. The price of car parts, such as a new battery, will also depend on the type of car you have. Some batteries are much more expensive than others.

Be extremely careful if you'll be jump starting your car in the cold, since a dead battery can freeze if the temperature is below ten or fifteen degrees. Jumping the car at this temperature could result in an explosion! If you need to jump in this kind of weather, allow the car that's being used to jump yours to run for a few minutes, with cables attached, to warm the battery. If it's very cold, you should stand ten feet or more from the car and wait up to half an hour. Don't be tempted to rush this - if you can, find a warm place to stay while you're waiting for the car to start.

No matter what weather you're jumping in, be sure not to make the final connection on the battery terminal. That's because dead batteries can off gas and sparks may ignite this gas. Make the last connection on a metal surface in the car, instead. Wear safety goggles if you can, and if they're not available, don't look at the battery when you make the connection - if an explosion occurs, this will protect your face. Start both cars at once, and if yours is sluggish, let the other car charge your dead car battery for a few minutes. If your headlights burn brightly, you should be able to start your car.

If you need a new battery, check for a store that sells car parts and car accessories, and be prepared to pay for it. Installation can be done on your own, but remember the basic safety precautions and remember that you'll be responsible for disposal of the dead battery after it's removed. A fresh battery in a car that's in good working condition should last for years. If it doesn't - something else may be wrong, and different car parts may need to be replaced. That's one reason to have a professional check your car if you're having battery problems. He or she can recommend the right car accessories to fix the problem.

1969 Alpine A-110

2009-05-03T09:36:00.000-07:00

In 1961, the Alpine A110 made its introduction, as an improved and updated A108. Most of the Alpines of the time made use of Renault parts that are mass-produced. The A-110's predecessor the A-108 was designed for Dauphine components, while the A-110 was the updated version made to use the R8 parts. The A-110 was first available with "Berlinetta" body works then with Cabriolet.

The A-110's fiberglass body sat on a chassis with a backbone of steel, the Lotus Elan influenced this design. The Alpine designers used Colin Chapman as a primary origin for their inspiration. The A-110 was outfitted with a 1.1 l R8 Major or with R8 Gordini engines, which had 95 hp SAE at 6500 rpm.

The engine is why, early in the 1970s, it achieved the majority of its renown as a winning rally car. This was after the 1960s when the A-110 won a number of French rallies using the iron cast R8 Gordini engines. This car was then outfitted with the Renault 16 TS engine, aluminium block. With two dual-chamber Weber 45 carburetor, this engine was capable of 125 hp DIN at 6000 rpm, which is why it reached 130 mph in speed.

In the course of the 1970 through 1972 racing seasons, the car gained international fame when it attended the new International Championship for Manufacturers and won a number of events throughout Europe. Among the most noteworthy was the car's victory in the 1971 Monte Carlo Rally driven by the Swedish Ove Andersson.

In 1973, Alpine was bought out by Renault and the International Championship, at this time, was replaced with the World Rally Championship. Renault competed with the A-110, the team consisted of Jean-Pierre Nicolas, Bernard Darniche, and Jean-Luc Therier as the permanent drivers. Once in a while, there would be "guest stars" drivers such as Jean-Claude Andruet who had won the 1973 Monte Carlo Rally. This made the Alpine the first of the World Rally champions.

Around the world, there were other manufacturers of the Alpine, using various other names. Like in Brazil, it was Interlagos, which was driven by Emerson Fittipaldi in a few races. In Mexico, from 1965 through 1974, it was the Dinalpin, produced by Diesel Nacional that, by the way, also manufactured the Renault cars. In Bulgaria, from 1967 through 1969, the Alpine A-110 was produced and called the Bulgaralpine. This car was produced through the partnership of ETO Bulet and SPC Metalhim, this partnership also produced the Bulgarrenault.

By 1974, the Alpine A-110 had reached its end of being developed any further. At first A-110 was outfitted with fuel injection but it didn't produce any further performance improvements, then the DOHC 16-valve head was tried but that was unreliable. Next was a chassis modification using an A310 double wishbone rear suspension along with A-110 1600SC but that was no better.

Here is a rundown of the A-110 various engine types though out the years.

A-110 1100 "70" 1000 VA R8 Gordini type, 804 1108cc 95 hp SAE from 1964 to 1969
A-110 1100 "100", 1100 VA R8 Major type, 804 1108cdc 95 hp SAE from 1965 to 1968
A-110 1300 S 1300 VB tuned R8 Gordini type 804 1296 cc 120 hp SAE from 1965 to 1971
A-110 1300 G 1300 VA stock R8 Gordini 1300 type 812 1255 cc 105 hp SAE from 1967 to 1971
A-110 1500 stock Lotus Europa engine: R16 block 1470 cc 82 hp SAE from 1967 to 1968
A-110 1600, 1600 VA stock R16 from 1969 to 1970
A-110 1300 V85 1300 VC R12TS 1289 cc 81 hp SAE (68 hp DIN); from 1969 to 1976
A-110 1600S, 1600 VB tuned R16 TS 1565 cc 138 hp SAE (125 hp DIN); from 1970 to 1973
A-110 1600S, 1600 VC, SC R17 TS 1605 cc 140ch SAE (126ch DIN); from 1973 to 1975
A-110 1600S SI, 1600 VD R17 TS with fuel injection 1605 cc 140ch SAE (127ch DIN); from 1974 to 1975
A-110 1600S SX stock R16 TX from 1976 to 1978 type 843 1647 cc 93 hp DIN

The chassis was a steel backbone
Body panels were fiberglass
Weight was 1367 pounds
Length was 159 inches which 13.5 feet
Width was 59.1 inches, which is 4.925 feet
Wheelbase was 89.4 inches, which is 7.45
Track (front to rear) was 48 inches to 49.2 inches, which is 4 feet to 4.1 feet
The top speed was 139 mph at 6000rpm
Had front and rear brake discs
Has a 5-speed manual transmission

Currently, a fully restored French built Alpine 110 was located in Maryland and it is available at 60 thousand dollars.

1935 Alta 2-Litre History

2009-04-14T18:11:00.000-07:00

While the cars in modern racing always seem to be manufactured by major car companies, this was not always the case. In racing, for example, some independent teams built their own cars and the 1935 Alta 2-Litre vehicles showcase their innovation. Below you’ll find information on this historic car and its importance to racing.

Some Background

Before you can understand this particular car, you need to understand a little bit of the background surroundings its development. The team known as Alta (a shortened version of Alberta) was headed by Geoffrey Taylor (1904 to 1966). He had a strong background in automotives thanks to building components for motorcycles and other vehicles when he was still in his late teens.

In 1928, Taylor built his first car. He used a chassis frame from the A. B. C. auto parts company for whom he worked. He also added a 1,074 cc engine with an aluminum block – the engine was fabricated completely from scratch by him when he was just 24 years old. He raced the car, known as PK4053, in a London race in 1930 and did place in the race.

After this incredible success, the car was put into production in 1931. Taylor’s engine was used in the production but the chassis was replaced with one from Rubery Owen. All of these early models were open bodied, two-seaters. They weren’t about giving the rider a smooth ride but instead getting the fastest speeds possible. And they succeeded. The vehicles could reach speeds of between 85 and 110 mph – an impressive accomplishment in the 1930’s.

However, the cars weren’t just about speed. They also had amazing acceleration which made them an ideal choice for sprints, races, and trials. In 1934, the Alta car even broke a speed record.

Big Changes & Success

Just one year later, the original car went through some modifications. One-seater bodies were developed so the car could hit other racing circuits. Plus, two more versions of the engine were put into production – the 1,496 cc and the 1,961 cc. Both of these models included chain drven camshafts – another important innovation to the model. Just two years later, the 1,496 cc model was altered to be “supercharged.” What this meant was changes in the car’s design had significantly reduced its weight. And lighter cars are capable of reaching faster speeds in less time so the car was believed to be headed for greatness on the race track.

Thanks to the improvement in the weight of the car (mainly due to changes in the nose of the vehicle) the Alta vehicles were able to win a number of races and showed tremendous promise as a front runner for racing dominance in the years to come. Taylor was already hard at work on new designs and a new chassis that he thought would make the machine an even more impressive powerhouse. Unfortunately, things were not too turn out that way for Taylor.

The Unhappy Ending

All of Taylor’s plans were brought to a halt thanks to World War II. Because of a shortage of the very supplies Taylor needed for these vehicles, he was unable to continue building or designing. All of those materials had to be used for the manufacturing of weapons. However, he continued planning and was intending to pick up where he left off as soon as the war ended.

Of course, the war did not end quickly. The war lasted from 1939 to 1945. Even after the end came, however, shortages on the materials Taylor needed kept him from getting back to his work immediately as he had hoped. By the time he did manage to return, the car he managed to design and develop was sadly under classed by those being created by major manufacturers. His car would no longer be able to take the limelight on the race track.

Eventually, Taylor gave up the car making business. When Formula 1 racing debuted, the idea of independent car makers like Taylor developing their own vehicles was a thing of the past. Although the engines he had designed continued being manufactured under a different name for a long time, Taylor was not involved and after being ill for a long time he died in 1966 without any further victories for his Alta vehicles.

However, the achievements of his 1935 Alta 2-Litre did leave quite an impression on the history of racing and on car enthusiasts for decades to come.

1950 Allard J2…the best of Mid 20th Century Euro-American Automotive Engineering

2009-04-10T13:37:00.000-07:00

If you have been looking for a stunning sports car that exemplifies the best of English and American technological innovation and design the 1950 Allard J2 tops the list. These cars were produced during the 1950s and they were incredibly popular during this time period. What was even more amazing is that the cost of these cars was quite moderate. These cars enjoyed a popular appeal in both Europe and America when they were first produced and still today they are one of the most highly sought of older sports car models. This roadster was only produced as a limited series of 99 vehicles between the years 1950 and 1951.

The J2 Allard gave a driver an impressive amount of speed and performance and the handling was smooth enough to make them suitable for highly experienced or novice handlers. When the 1950 Allard J2 was put onto the racing circuit the sporty vehicle quickly earned first place listings in race courses on both continents. Sebring and Bridgehampton were only two of the places where this little speedster earned its reputation. Today these well built coupes are perfect specimens to be used on road rally courses and of course the cars are highly desirable by people who only want them placed in show competitions.

One of the best known construction features of the 1950s Allard J2 is the split I- beam axle used in the front end design. This gave the cars that fiercely distinct elongated nose; but it also made it possible to attach the special telescopic shock absorbers and heavy coiled springs that created an exceptional ride. There was a track rod at the rear of the split axle design and it was fashioned from three separate sections. In addition there were two idler arms at the rear and two radial arms which were also attached to the axle beams. To give the vehicle additional stability and suspension assistance there was a de Dion axle connected to the axle at the rear with the same style of coils and telescoping shocks that were used at the nose assembly. The incredible power of the J2 Allard in 1950 was made possible by a special Ford torque tube which was very much different from what other similar speedsters were using.

When the very first of the 99 1950 Allard J2 vehicle models were being rolled off the assembly line they were made with the souped up V8 Mercury flathead engines. These engines gave the cars incredible power and speed but as the racing legend of the Allard J2 models grew the increased need for even better speed was a must. This need was answered by installing new V8 engines in the Allard vehicle line including the Ardun OHV flathead and the Chrysler Company’s powerful Hemi V8 model.

The chassis of the original 1950 J2 Allards all had exceptionally deep sides and these were interconnected with four big bore tubing assemblies. The cars transmissions had more bracing than just the four large diameter tubes and this gave the vehicle outstanding stability but still the overall weight was quite light. This made these roadsters one of the speediest sports car designs on the road.

The lightweight bodies of the 1950 Allard J2 sports coupes were constructed from featherweight aluminum sheets that were molded and then attached with specialized bolts and fasteners. The fasteners were designed for quick and easy release and together the bolts and fasteners made stripping the car easy and fast. This meant that if the cars needed to be worked on by a mechanic, upgraded, or repaired it could be done in the shortest time frame possible. Even road, in-house or mechanical testing on the vehicle was able to be accomplished in unusually fast turnover times due to the innovative engineering and design of the cars.

There were some specific 1950 Allard J2 vehicle models that were only built for competition on the racing circuit. These powerful workhorses were equipped with the strongest V8 engines and tanks designed to hold 40 gallons of racing fuel. You could always tell one of these cars because the place the spare tire is mounted is not at the tail end of the car but on the side midway between the driver cockpit and forward fender.

A J2 Allard in 1950 was an amazing machine with some superior statistics including a 331 cc Cadillac V8 engine. This powerhouse could knock out 300 horsepower without flinching, and remember this was almost 60 years ago. The automotive engineers were forward thinking and highly innovative when it came to creating power and speed for the 1950 Allard J2 cars. In addition to a 331cc engine the Allard used triple, double barrel carbs and meticulously designed camshafts that combined to deliver some of the most powerful roadsters of the mid 20th century. Sports car enthusiasts pay dearly whenever they have a chance to purchase one of these rare cars from the 1950s.

1992 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce Weaves a Web of Mystery over Buyers

2009-04-09T15:46:00.000-07:00

Alfa Spiders have always been considered to be much more than just a vehicle. These cars were produced from the 1960s to the 1990s and they were always available only in limited production numbers. The highest number of these cars produced in any one year was just over 5100. This rarity added to the allure and mystique that always accompanied the Alfa Romeo name. The Alfa Spider Veloce convertible that was marketed in 1992 remains a favorite for many today and when one is advertised for sale it will not stay on the market very long.

These exquisitely crafted machines have always been regarded as being special Italian racing cars. They come with an illustrious pedigree and an automotive DNA history rich with speed, luxury and dashing looks. To own one of these cars has brought an owner a certain amount of cachet and to drive one has been a privilege of some and a fantasy of many sports car enthusiasiasts around the world. The 1992 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce is one of the rarities in this famous line of automobiles because it has clout, speed and visual appeal to both sexes of all ages.

Beginning with the earliest Alfa Romeo cars their reputation was described as a sports car for gentlemen and was not considered the type of vehicle that one would take slogging about in the forests or on off road tracks. Ideally one would not subject the Alfa Romeo cars to rough handling or excessive speeds just for the sake of showing off in front of others. These cars were pampered and coddled by their owners and were known to be a bit a bit balky and petulant if maintenance or care was neglected or postponed. Given proper consideration and treatment the Alfa Romeo would deliver a quality ride to a gentle and generous owner or driver.

The sexy sleek lines of the dashing Alfa Romeo had always attracted attention and the 1992 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce was certainly no exception. The chassis of these cars have a uni-body design that has proven to be extremely durable and imparts a particular elegance to the feel and handling of this automobile. When you factored in the lightweight, aerodynamic build of the car, the high tech engineering design and the flashy look of the vehicle it was easy to see why drivers from many countries lusted after them. Even the price tag placed on the vehicles was very affordable, especially when compared with many other luxury sports cars from Italy, Germany or even the United States.

When the 1992 models were placed on the market they were greeted by an enthusiastic group of sports car lovers. The interior and dash components were covered with real leather in the upscale Veloce vehicle, although there were some suede accents made for inserts in both the seats and the doors. The base units of the same year had only vinyl covering for their seats. The small amount of plastic that was used in the interior dash components was well constructed and very little cracking was seen, even today, many years after the original manufacturing date.

These 1992 Spider Veloce models came with toneau covers made of leather and they also had canvas tops that were surprisingly resilient in many different kinds of weather. Mechanically these speedsters were cars that you could rely upon to get you where you needed to be with style and elegance to spare. The engines were twin overhead cams with four cylinders and although regular maintenance was a mandatory for the best performance, the engines in these cars were amazingly easy to work on.

The last of any major changes to the Spider car line came with the Series 4 line up that lasted from 1990 through 1993/94. The largest of the design differences was in the mechanics of the car. An electronic Bosch Motronic fuel injection unit was installed complete with its own electric fan. The Spider also had the spoiler removed from under the front bumper as well as the spoiler that usually graced the top of the trunk. New lights were installed in the back of the vehicle and they stretched the entire width of the rear end. The physical changes to the North American models began in 1991 and they included power steering, new plastic bumpers, driver airbags and the loss of the beloved spoilers.

There were two choices of Spider convertible created by the Alfa Romeo Company. The base model and the upscale Veloce roadster were the options available. There were not many differences in these cars. The Veloce vehicle had leather seats instead of the vinyl units and slightly larger wheels. The Spider Veloce model had 15” alloy wheels with special hubcaps. If you selected the upgraded vehicle you also received great air conditioning units and a canvas top as standard equipment. In 1992 almost 4000 of these cars were made and sold in Europe and North America and today collectors avidly seek them out and will pay top dollar for an original 1992 Spider Veloce vehicle in mint, or nearly mint, condition.

2004 Acura NSX Sport Car Magic

2009-04-07T15:31:00.000-07:00

The 2004 Acura NSX was a beast of a vehicle when it was first released. The price tag on this car hovered around $90, 000 and there were plenty of buyers anxious to put one of these vehicles their garage. The NSX by Acura was originally brought to the American and Canadian markets in 1989 and the concept car took everyone by surprise. The design was aerodynamic and ultra modern and there were new materials being used that were making these cars a hot topic among sports car enthusiasts.

The 2-door style of the vehicle made it clear that it was built as an engine muscle car and not a family sedan. The lightweight top was removable if you accessed the two levers located on the interior of the roof. Although the first year was definitely a peak year for sales, the car continued to do well throughout its annual reincarnations. When the 2004 Acura NSX debuted, it was being pitted against well-known muscle cars like the Lamborghini, Aston Martin, Corvette, Porsche, and Dodge Viper.

This was a powerful speedster that came in a 3L, V6 engine with a 4 speed automatic transmission. The transmission of the vehicle did have a stick shift feature that you could choose to use to add some flair and excitement to your sports car driving fun. There was also a 3.2L V6 engine with a 6 speed manual shift. The addition of 6 gears was the most coveted model by most who were adding this vehicle to their personal line-up. The V6 engine contained a 10.2 compression ratio, 78 mm stroke and a 90mm bore. There was also a double overhead cam on all of these vehicles with variable valve timing/camshaft and 4 valves per cylinder.

The 3.0 L 181 cc engine was somewhat outclassed by the 3.2L 194 cc engine. The 3L model could provide 252 Horsepower at 6600 rpm but the 3.2L version delivered 290 Horsepower at 7100 rpm. The difference is torque was also notable with the 3L giving 210 lb/ft at 5300 rpm and the 3.2L providing 224 lb/ft at 5500 rpm.

Traction control, anti-lock4 wheel disc brakes, and dual front airbags were standard equipment on the vehicles that gave drivers a little extra safety and stability when on the wide-open roads. The mileage for this 2004 Acura NSX sportster was 17/24, which was not too shabby considering that it was built to be pushed at high speeds.

Knowing that this car would be a hot ticket item there were plenty of available color options for both interior and exterior. A customer could take what model happened to be at the dealer that day or choose Grand Prix White, Berlina Black, Silverstone Metallic, Indy Yellow, Long Beach Blue Pearl, Imola Orange Pearl, or New Formula Red as their exterior color preference. The Yellow, Red, and Blue were the most commonly seen colors for this car. Interior color options included orange, yellow, camel, onyx, silver, blue, white, and red.

This all aluminum uni-body car construction provided a lightweight build that could deliver on both unleashed power and responsive, exquisite handling. The engines of all of the 2004 NSX sports cars were created to provide the least amount of friction at all times. These engines were known to be phenomenal workhorses no matter the punishment they were subjected to. The driver remained the focus of this design and this was perhaps the biggest draw for people looking to make the purchase of this super star vehicle. The deep seats kept the driver riveted to the center of gravity and made driving this sports car a truly memorable experience.

The sound system in this sports car is everything you could have requested if you had been the design engineer in charge. The CD changer was then a new feature in 2004 and was mounted in the trunk. There was 165 watts of power provided through a subwoofer at the passenger’s foot, a midrange tweeter that was positioned to the rear of the seats, and speakers mounted low on each door. If music was what you wanted to hear as you drove this vehicle to work then the dynamic sound system delivered the goods.

The Acura 2004 NSX has a rear wheel drive that is stable and dependable. The unique heavy-duty design of the clutch reduced up to 50% of the shifting loads on the vehicles by using the integrated dual and triple coned synchronizers. There was also a Torque Reactive Differential which gave additional control and stability to a driver by decreasing the inside wheel spin whenever the sports car would corner a turn.

The interior of the car was luxury and speed all wrapped up in one glorious package. A full leather upholstery job was only the tip of the design iceberg. There was a Bose AM/FM cassette player; fully powered 4-way bucket seat; keyless entry; 6 CD changer, telescoping sports steering wheel; windshield wipers with variable control; and power windows-doors-mirrors and locks. Add to these a tachometer, floor mats, climate controlled air conditioning, power steering, and cruise control. Even this long list still does not cover all of the features presented on the 2004 Acura NSX vehicles.

2009 KTM X-Bow Winter Drift

2009-04-03T14:05:00.000-07:00

KTM Motorcycles came out with their first sports car at the Geneva Motor Show in 2007 with the KTM X-Bow. There was a limited edition of the X-Bow as well...The X-Bow Dallara (there are only going to be 100 made.) This is in honor of Dallara, the Italian specialist in racing and sport cars. This Italian company is also involved with developing and tuning of the chassis. The chassis itself is a double wishbone and has push rod suspension in the front. An extra option is a racing chassis that has an altered suspension and settings and has a pre-loaded adjuster so you can adjust the ground clearance.

The X-Bow is a lightweight mid-engine vehicle that has a carbon fiber monocoque (Greek and French word meaning single shell.) This is a construction technique that supports the structural load by using the object's external skin instead of using an internal frame or truss that then is covered with a non-load-bearing skin. Another term for this technique is called Uni-body construction.

This is a highly developed technique for Formula 1 racing, racing cars and those expensive and exotic sports cars. This particular shell is manufactured by specialists in Wethje, South Germany. It has a crash box located in the front and a "solid sandwich structured floor pan." Because of the carbon fiber shell, the vehicle is only 2,370 pounds. Because it has such a low weight, it can outperform many of the other super cars that are more powerful.

This sports car was designed for wintertime fun, so it is equipped with four-wheeled drive. It is also equipped with two liter Audi TFSI Inline-four. The engine weighs 1742 pounds. Torque is 229 pounds per foot. Horsepower is 240 or 7.3 pounds per horsepower. Top speed is 0-62 in 3.9 seconds.

This vehicle, with its radical and advanced technological solutions, is designed for the ultimate true open-air car driving experience. So this means that there isn't a roof or windshield. At least, not in the conception phase, when it was first introduced in 2007 at the Geneva Motor Show. That was so the focus was to be on the deliverance of the driving experience that only can be found riding a motorcycle. There have been very small alterations from the prototype and the production model that was on exhibit in 2008.

There it was seen that that, for the most part, the biggest change was to enlarge the central air intake located between the headrests. This is to allow for greater engine cooling during demanding activities.

Another obvious change is the new instrument arrangement. Originally, all of the indicator and controls along with a display on the steering wheel, which was proven not too be such a good place for them. So now the display, which is shower-proof, is now located on the center console top. And the control buttons are still on the steering wheel.

Another big change was the addition of small polycarbonate side windows and a smaller windshield. Also new is the seating upholstery. The seat shells have to be rigid and are made from carbon so that the seats can be fixed right to the monocoque, so the cushioning is necessary and comes in different sizes to fit the drivers. Also available is a pedal box that is mechanically adjustable so the driver can set up a driving position that is comfortable. And if you like the "sporty sound" the KTM X-Bow has a silencer with twin exhaust pipes for fine-tuning. Many of the options that are also extra in the Dallara edition you can order for the standard KTM X-Bow except for the Dallara plaque and the special graphics.

Currently, it is certified for being road legal in most of the European countries. The "European Small Series Homologation Regulations" that is set for the first part of 2009 will make it road legal in all of Europe.

Speaking of Europe, even though authorities do not require that the driver of the X-Bow to wear a helmet, KTM stresses that they recommend that you do. At the Geneva Show, they had two available (both had the X-Bow branding). The models were the Arai Closed Racing Helmet and one from Schuberth, a German company. The Arai meets requirements from motor sports authorities by providing comprehensive protection whereas the German one has better peripheral vision.

2006 Adrenaline Murtaya

2009-04-01T18:09:00.000-07:00

On April 11Th 2006, Adrenaline Motor-sports in Cornwall launched a kit car, The Murtaya. A kit car is basically like a modular home except it is a car. The kit comes complete, meaning that it comes from a single donor. This happens to be the 1993 to 2000 Subaru Impreza so you don't have to search hard for extra additions to tweak the performance of the car. In that case, the WRX and the STi models make great extra donor parts in either design, the normal aspirated or turbocharged. But if you are going whole hog then the Impreza Type R or Type RA will go a long way to making your standard package into a great sports car.

People can purchase the kit and assemble it themselves. This was done for financial reasons. It comes in different packages. The main two packages are road spec and the race spec. and the road spec. The road version has a full windshield, air conditioning, leather interior, sound insulation, central locking, and power windows. If you decide to modify the car it is suggested to purchase if possible a whole car (good place to look is the local junk yard.)

To design this car so to ensure that all parts fit as they should, they used CAD modeling and a lot of analyzing. The main concern was the chassis. It needed to be strong so it would be capable to handle the extreme stresses that it will be under.

The basic kit package has these components.

Main Monocoque, Trunk lid, front clam shell, both doors, dashboard, door trim panels, center console, front sub-frame, gear selector rod modifications, steering column modifications, prop shaft, pedal box bracket, steering column bracket, door hinges, pitch stop mount bracket, trunk hinges, bonnet hinge (the protective hinged metal cover over a motor vehicle's engine.)

So the rest of the car that is needed you would need to get from another donor car. A great place to look for whole donor cars is auction houses. You could just go to the local junk yard just for a partial car but a whole car is best you never know what part you need to use or just do some extra modifications. This kit was designed for the home mechanic who is looking for an exciting project for home assembly.

There are three versions of the road version. Standard, WRX, and STi Type-RA or Type R. The standard has all wheeled drive with a 5 speed manual transmission. The WRX has horsepower in the lower 200 range and is a 5-6 speed manual transmission. The WRX STi version will have horsepower in the upper 200 range. The STi Type-RA has a 6-speed transmission, driver controlled central differential. The five-speed Road car's weight is 2035 pounds. The six-speed road Car's weight is also 2035 pounds. Whereas the track car has the lowest weight at 1870 and that is with it being a 6-speed manual transmission.

All of the car versions feature "a composite monocoque tub with GRP front clam shell." There is a multi pointed space frame that is bolted to the main tub where the engine and the front suspension is bolted in. Whereas the rear suspension, gearbox, prop shaft center bearing are bolted right on the monocoque. This to allow a stiff platform for the suspensions to keep the wheels on the ground.

The exterior of the car was also the result of extreme designing work that took in the visual impact. While also taking into account things like plenty trunk space. Overall, when it is finished the car has great visual appeal with every day practicality to do things like shopping, weekend trips, going to work, or going camping.

Before it was even considered ready to sell, it went through a battery of circuit testing at the "Brands Hatch International Circuit", which was viewed by the public and where it was clocked at 400 miles per hour. This car project was under the supervision of these three men, Neil Yates...the managing director, Daniel Muir...head designer and Tom Taylor...head engineer. Which, by the way, is where the name of the car came from these men's last names..."Mur from Muir, Ta from Taylor, Ya from Yates."

"True Concept Cars" is handling of the distribution of the cars in Europe. "True Concept Cars" is located in Budel, Netherlands. Their target customers for worldwide markets are in North America, China, and Russia.

1910 Adler Tourer

2009-03-30T09:06:00.000-07:00

In 1900, Mr. Adler started a company in Frankfurt, Germany to produce bicycles, which lead to motorcycles, cars, and typewriters.

By the time the company produced their first car, "A Renault influenced, De Dion powered Voiturette in 1900," it wasn't long before the company was up and running making their own engines that were single or two cylinder. However, by 1910, that was increased to four cylinders. At that point, some of the engines were enormous; they went as large as seven point four liters. Six and the straight eight cylinder engines were added shortly afterwards. However, the 1910 Alder Tourer was best known as the "Rolls-Royce 40/50 HP Silver Ghost". In those days, automobiles were still considered unreliable and were looked on as noisy, smelly, and dirty. Many people still preferred the horse and buggy. Only the rich had cars at that time.

The company continued to work on this car and had entered it in the Scottish Reliability Races in 1907. The reason it was called the "Silver Ghost" was the Managing Director Claude Johnson decided to fit a silver colored 40/50 horse powered chassis that had silver plated details with a matching tourer body.

The engine is located in the front with a manual transmission. It has a wheelbase of 102.5 inches with four doors. The Scottish Reliability Race was a race that took forty days and the distance was fourteen thousand miles nonstop. And that was before it was in need of service. This was unheard of at the time so it caused quite a stir worldwide. This also caused the British magazine Autocar, considered the best-known magazine, to write in an article that the Silver Ghost was "the best car in the world". This is still the motto of Rolls-Royce. There were 8,416 of this car made. The one that was in the race was the only true "Silver Ghost"; all of the cars of the 40/50 chassis were referred as "Silver Ghosts".

Issues with Damaged or Broken Wheels

2008-12-24T07:40:00.000-08:00

One of the main things that people seem to neglect on their vehicle is the wheels. People normally do not spend their time looking at the condition of their wheels so it goes without saying that this area on a vehicle suffers for long periods of time before anything is done about it. Below is a list of some of the most common problems that you may encounter when it comes to the wheels on your vehicle and suggestions on what you should do if you have any one of these issues with your wheels.

• The wheels are out of balance. This is perhaps one of the most common issues that people come across where their wheels are concerned. You will notice this especially when you are going at higher speeds as the front end of your car or truck will start to vibrate. Some people say that the vibration will then go away once they level off at a certain speed. This is not the safe way to handle this situation. You need to get the wheels checked so that you can get them properly balanced so that you will not end up with an unwanted accident.

• Need a front-end alignment. This is a problem that will cause your vehicle to pull more to one side. You will see this if you are holding the steering wheel and you have to pull the wheel in the opposite direction to keep the vehicle driving correctly. This can make the vehicle to pull more to either side. You will need to have the alignment on the front end checked and adjusted if necessary. This can be very dangerous if you are not paying attention and holding on to the wheel tight. Sometimes you may find that driving on certain surfaces such as a bridge can affect the steering of the vehicle so be sure that your wheels are aligned properly.

• You may also notice that the vehicle is not driving correctly if the tire pressure is off so be sure to check the pressure in all tires frequently. You do not want to drive around with tires that are different sizes. If you find that you have a wheel that is of different size then the rest then you will need to make sure that you have all four wheels matching.

• If you notice that your wheel is loose or wobbly then you may want to check the lug nuts to make sure that they are all tight. This will be real noticeable when you are driving down the road and you feel the wobbliness in the steering wheel. The front end of the car may seem to be shimmying or shaking. You need to get this checked as soon as possible.

• Be sure to check the wheels for lumps and bumps. You may need some help to get this done as you will have to drive forward a little bit at a time and have someone look at each wheel for abnormalities. You also want to be sure that the tread on the tires is in good shape as you can have a blow out if the tread is too low.

• You may have the wrong wheel size of you notice that your wheels seem to wear down rather quickly. You can keep track of this by making it a point to check your wheels on a weekly basis. This way you will be used to what they need to look like when they are in good shape and you will quickly notice if something is not right with them.

Take care of your vehicle is up to date with proper maintenance and this includes the wheels. The wheels are what move your vehicle around on the road and if you do not have the wheels the way they need to be then you can run the risk of getting into an accident. This can do harm not only to your vehicle but also to yourself as well as others.

You should try to plan on regular maintenance to your wheels each month to ensure that they are functioning as they should. You want them to be all the same size with no abnormalities. You also want to make sure that the air pressure is up where it should be and that your front end is properly aligned.

Engine coolant

2008-12-23T07:16:00.000-08:00

It is so easy to get wrapped up in day-to-day activity that sometimes you forget to do one important thing and that is checking the maintenance of your vehicle. This plays a huge part for many people having to rush around getting to work, school, shopping, for example, and it is necessary to keep your vehicle in tiptop condition.

Checking the engine coolant on your vehicle may be one of those jobs that sometimes it is easy to forget, but this is very important for your vehicle to run smoothly from day to day. Changing your engine coolant regularly can be very important even if you take for granted things are running smoothly.

Corrosion to vehicles can be a silent killer and if this happens because of forgetting simple vehicle checks to the cooling system then you may have a costly repair bill to pay, with the added inconvenience of no vehicle while repairs are done.

The cooling system itself is a complex assembly of materials and components of, cast iron, aluminum, copper, stainless steel, steel, rubber, plastic, brass the engine coolant has to have compatibility with all of these. Also the coolant has to stop corrosion, efficiently transfer heat as well as lubricating water pump seals.

This may sound an easy task until you realize that two different metals, for example, different alloy wheels, come into contact with an acidic liquid like used anti freeze, this becomes a crude battery that has been built. It is the electricity that is produced by the cooling system that accelerates corrosion of the materials. This is why it is important to change coolant when necessary to prevent the excessive build up of any acidic in the system helping to prevent corrosion.

There are three different types of antifreeze that are most commonly used for light duty vehicles. If using the first one ethylene glycol, which has a sweetish taste, then care must be taken as it can be deadly to children and small animals proper precautions must be taken when draining or storing antifreeze.

The second, propylene antifreeze, is slightly less toxic having a slight bitterness to the taste to make it not as attractive to pets, but again, caution should be taken when storing. The two antifreezes, propylene and glycol both contain phosphates, borates, and/or silicates, all of these being corrosion inhibitors keeping the coolant solution alkaline, the color of these antifreezes is the typical green.

The third type of antifreeze also contains ethylene glycol as a base but also has organic acids that help to provide protection for the engine from corrosion. This antifreeze was used by General Motors in 1996 under the Dex-cool name; it has a five-year lifetime of 160,000km against the two years lifetime of other antifreezes. The color of the lifetime antifreeze is orange, but don’t be mislead by the red or orange coolants in the non-GM vehicles. It is far better to check in the owner’s manual whether it needs to be changed in a five or two year interval.

Never mix long life with regular antifreeze, this will shorten the life of antifreeze to two years. It is better if having to add antifreeze, to mix it with water following the ratio on the container. Normally the ratio recommended is 50/50 although some cheap antifreeze may use the ratio 60/40 mixture.

If the coolant levels are low, this can indicate a leak. If visibly, there are no signs of corrosion or stains on the outside of the components or engine, then the leak could be internal into the engine oil. This needs to be checked by a mechanic as soon as you can since it can cause damage to the engine bearings quickly.

It is far easier to change the antifreeze on your vehicle by taking it to your nearby garage or repair shop. This causes you less mess and is environmentally friendlier taking your vehicle there, as most garages and repair shops use antifreeze recycling machines. These machines will flush the cooling system, clean the old coolant and lastly fill the vehicle with rejuvenated coolant.

What happens with the cooling system flush is that all the old coolant will be removed to a recycling machine; water is then forced all through the system and drained. The old coolant that was removed is filtered, testing for its strength (freezing point) and the pH balance.

If needed, new antifreeze will be added to raise the coolant's strength. To balance the pH level, an additive is added so it no longer causes corrosion. Last, a package of chemicals is added that has extra corrosion protecting materials and added water pump lubricant. The recycled coolant can now be put back into the cooling system.

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Getting Your Vehicle FREAKY SQUEAKY Clean

2008-12-17T16:48:00.000-08:00

If you are serious about keeping your car show room shiny, then there are several things you need to be aware of when it comes to getting and keeping your vehicle clean.

BUG OFF!!!

As you are driving along a country road, or even in the middle of the city, you'll undoubtedly encounter bugs innocently flying across the road, when SPLAT! They come head on into the front of your car. It is impossibe to keep bugs off your car entirely, but it is important that you not let them sit for too long on your car's finish. The result could be very damaging to your car's finish as they are baked on by the sun or as the acid in their body reacts to the clear protective coat of your vehicle.

SAY NO TO SNOW!!!

If your vehicle is caked with snow grime and salt and you know that there will be snow for days, weeks, and months ahead, getting your windshield clean enough to see through and leaving the rest for when the weather lets up a bit is a BIG MISTAKE! The salt, grese, and grime that coated your vehicle as the melting snow splashed all over is very dangerous for your vehicle's finish. Clean it off every few days to give your vehicle's finish a break from the eroding effects of the snow grime.

THE EARLY BIRD GETS THE WORM, AND THEN HE POOPS ON YOUR CAR!!!

When your car is bombed by bird droppings, clean them off as soon as convenient. The acidic nature of the bird droppings can wear away the clear coat on your car. Avoid parking under trees of telephone lines that are frequent perching places for your fine feathered friends.

RUB YOUR EYES. RUB YOUR BELLY. BUT NEVER RUB YOUR DIRTY CAR!!!

When you start to clean your car, it's imperative that you first spray any dust, dirt, bugs, and grime off with a high pressure spray prior to rubbing the surface of your car with anything, even your hand. If you start wiping the surface of your car prematurely, you will potentially cause permanent damage to the clear protective coating of your car. If you are tempted to use a little elbow grease to remove stubborn bug splatters or grime, then instead practice patience and soak them to softness instead. To help with especially large areas of your car that may need some soaking power, spread a 100% cotton flannel sheet over the surface of your car. Then spray the sheet covered car with water, and take a twenty to thirty minute break allowing the water soaked sheet to aid in loosening stubborn stuck on grime. On especially hot days, you may want to respray the sheet after about ten to fifteen minutes.

After removing the sheet, respray the car and, using water pressure only, remove the now loosened bugs and things.

ONLY BRUSH THE PAINTED PARTS OF YOUR CAR THAT ARE COVERED WITH HAIR

Very few brushes that you will use have soft enough bristles to avoid damaging your car's finish. If you happen to have one of those brushes, be sure to thoroughly clean all dirt that is in the bristles off before using it on your car's surface.

THE BUGS AND TAR ARE HERE TO STAY ... NOT.

When soaking alone just won't do the trick, apply a bug and tar remover to the residual spots. It is imperative that you get a remover that is formulated especially to work on a car's delicate surface. After letting it soak for a few minutes, gently rub the area with a soft cloth, sponge, or car washing mitt that is made of a material deisgned to not scratch the car's surface.

WASH, RINSE, AND REPEAT.

After you have performed the steps necessary to leave your car sparkling clean, rinse the car thoroughly. Then carefully enspect the vehicles surface for any spots that you may haev missed. As you find them, repeat the steps above for bug and tar removal.

GO, SPOT! GO!

Adding a rinsing agent to your final rinse water can help your car rinse spot free. You can also buff your car with a super soft water absobant chamois cloth. Avoid the temptation to let your car dry in the hot sunlight, and the direct sunlight can actaully burn the paint as it is magnified through water droplets on a hot day.

WAX ON. WAX OFF!

Several times throughout the year, you will want to protect your car's finish by a high quality wax deisgned specifically for the protection of the clear coat on many cars today.

BE COOL!

As you roll down the road in your high polished show-room perfect vehicle, smile, and BE COOL!

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Simply Cleaning Fuel Injectors Might Fix Those Engine Problems

2008-11-26T15:27:00.000-08:00

One of the most common mechanical problems that will happen with cars today is that they have fuel injectors that have become dirty and clogged.

When cars have fuel injector faults they will exhibit problems starting or they will run in a very ragged and rough fashion. Some of them will misfire and idle roughly before smoothing out. This is very common as cars age and start racking up high miles, but can also occur if you have a car that is left to sit for long periods of time.

While the modern fuel injection system has transformed the way engines start up in cars this system does have some built in design points that have to be watched and maintained to prevent problems. Today almost every automobile engine will start up when the ignition key is turned to the on position.

When this occurs, the fuel injectors spray a fine mist of fuel into the runners of the intake manifold, which creates an immediate vaporization of the fuel spray. This must occur because liquids cannot be used to power your engine, only the vapor that is produced will burn. The spray pattern from the injectors must be an extremely fine mist. The lighter and finer the particles that are contained in this mist, the easier it is to be turned into burnable vapors. When your engine has dirty fuel injectors they cannot spray a fine, evenly distributed pattern of mist.

Sometimes the injectors will spray more fuel in only one direction, or the spray may be more of a drip or a thick stream instead of the fine mist that is needed. The spray of fuel from the injectors may also come out continuously if they are not able to close off completely.

If you have an automobile that refuses to start, it may be due to fuel injectors that are stuck and unable to open at all. With cars that are running roughly and have cylinders that are misfiring, the problem may be traced to an uneven air-fuel mixture to for the cylinders. This means that some may get too much or too little of the necessary fuel and this creates problems in the overall firing cycle.

Misfiring with cylinders means that the available oxygen they contain is not being used for combustion purposes. Instead, the oxygen is being pushed out of the exhaust pipe on the next exhaust stroke.

On cars today, there are computerized oxygen sensors that measure and track this unused oxygen and this will cause the computer to react as if the engine is running extremely lean. What happens then is that the computer that controls the fuel injectors will attempt to compensate by adding more fuel to all of the cylinders by keeping the injectors on for longer periods of time.

This situation then causes even the cylinders that receiving the right amount of fuel to get too much fuel, which will make them, begin to seem too rich. Now the system that was supposed to correct the problem has mistakenly overcorrected and has made the operation of your engine worse than before. This will continue to deteriorate until you fix the original culprits, which are the dirty fuel injectors.

Since fuel is supposed to be clean and there are additional filters that are in place throughout the vehicle’s fuel system to trap impurities like dust and dirt particles it seems hard to understand how the injectors can get so filthy. Usual fuel filters are made to trap particles that are between 10 - 30 microns in size.

To show you what this size means, you should know that a single micron is only a millionth of an inch in size. So you can see that these filters are busy trapping lots of particles. They can even get overloaded themselves, but ordinarily they can keep most dirt out of the injection system. Still liquids can carry very small impurities through a filter.

At slower engine speeds, you will not have a great deal of fuel that is coming through the fuel injectors and sometimes there are very small particles and impurities that might become lodged in the small valves contained in the tiny nozzle tips that release the spray. Drivers may find that a few revs of the engine with the foot feed can flush these deposits out.

There is also a problem with the injectors sticking or becoming dirty from the residue deposits that normally build up in the spray nozzles. After an engine is shut off, the fuel evaporates on the tip of injector nozzles. The tops of the nozzles will be the first to experience the evaporation process, which will leave a sticky residue behind. You may be able to rev and run the engine for a few minutes and flush some of these deposits away, but usually a little chemical cleaning help is your best bet.

Drivers often notice that gas companies advertise the fuel-cleaning additives included in their products. There are some fuels that contain more additives that can run more cleanly than regular fuels. This will also help keep the injectors clean, but almost all gasoline products have at least some of these clean fuel additives.

You can purchase a variety of additives that will clean your fuel and clean your fuel injectors if you follow the directions carefully. Usually you will use a container of one of these products to a tank of gas, do not add more than is called for and do not use it any more frequently than is advised. If you do so, you can actually break down many of the rubber components in your car’s fuel system. Mechanics can also clean the fuel injection system for you.

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Properly Breaking in a New Vehicle

2008-11-24T17:51:00.000-08:00

Breaking in the new vehicle is important – there is a process. The idea that breaking in the new car is just beginning the wearing process is far from true. Most manufacturers provide a manual with the specifics of the particular make and model including the ideal way of breaking it in. If there is not one included in the purchase, it is highly recommended to download a version of it from their website. As each vehicle is different, including the parts, it is imperative to pay attention to the manufacturer’s suggestions.

The main reason that stands behind breaking in the new engine is to allow parts to seal properly – namely the piston rings. The idea is to prevent future oil burning. During the process of breaking in the vehicle it is not uncommon, however, to have the aroma of burning oil. This is caused by the parts not being sealed as of yet – this should not be an issue in the future. If it does continue longer than expected refer to the manual first, and then contact the manufacturer if the issue remains unresolved.

Typically the cars that are made these days do not take longer than just a few hundred kilometers (approximately two hundred miles) to be broken in - to play it safe drive carefully for the first three hundred miles. Once this has been passed it is safe to drive normally again

There are a few things to pay attention to while breaking in the new engine:

- During this process avoid letting the car sit in an idle position. When the car is idling very little oil is filtering through the engine to the various parts. Some parts require a little more oil while they are still new.

- Avoid punching on the gas. Drive as if you are attempting to save gas. Once in motion, slow acceleration is acceptable. Typically for the break in duration you should begin the car at thirty miles per hour and then slowly accelerate to fifty.

- Other parts of the engine are also settling during this process, so being gentle to the vehicle in the beginning will play a large role in assisting.

(Note: Ideally a driver should be gentle to his or her car always – not just during the break in process. The life of the parts and engine as a whole will extend if proper care is in act at all times. The break in process does not guarantee life of the vehicle. It only helps in the proper settling of the parts.)

- Most parts of the vehicle being manufactured are in such shape that the break in process does not take near the length of time it did in previous years. During the early years of vehicles the break in process could be expected to take thousands of miles for proper settling.

- Also consider the time we are in. We are far more advanced than they were years ago. Many times the manufacturers will break the parts while the car is still in their hands. This should be stated in the manual. If it is not contact the manufacturer, they should be able to answer any questions you may have regarding this process.

- Today engines are made with higher tolerances. During past years cylinder clearances were typically in the thousands of an inch…today they are in the ten thousands. Babying an engine today could actually cause some harm. Be sure to read the manual if there is ever a question. Understand that in order for the bores to be shaved properly for perfect fitting a little cylinder pressure is necessary to drive the rings out. If there is too much babying during the beginning stages, the rings will not be pushed out. This will cause them to rub and burnish the surface. The proper settling will not occur.

- Avoid towing anything of any size during the process. The break in period is short lived. Once completed everyday wear and tear may proceed.

This day and age cars are made a lot more durable than they were in previous times, so the break in process does not take near the length of time that it used to. If an indication is not given whether the new vehicle needs to be broken in or not, and no one can answer yes or no, assume that it needs to be. It is better to be safe.

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Brake noises

2008-11-23T05:34:00.000-08:00

One of the most important aspects of driving for anyone is being able to stop their car correctly; if you encounter a problem with this procedure then it has to be dealt with properly before an accident occurs. If a noise sounds when putting pressure on your brakes when slowing down or stopping this could indicate a problem with your brakes and needs attention for safety reasons.

There may be those of you who have heard a passing car squeak/squeal as it goes past, this is the type of noise that happens when their brakes may be faulty or worn and need attention. Considering the length of time cars are driven on the road until the fault is found, a lot of time and money may be used trying to correct the problem.

Most garages may do a complete break overhaul hoping to correct the problem which can be successful. The way they do this is to replace the brake pads on disc brakes then the brake shoes on the drum type brakes. It is the surfaces between the brake drums and rotors that causes friction example the part that is clamped by the brake pads, these more often have been machined providing a smooth flat surface allowing the brake friction material to push against.

This may mean even though the brakes seem to work well the squeaking or squealing may come back shortly after. The disc brake where the noise comes from is due to brake pads vibrating at a high frequency in their mounts whilst the brake rotor slides past. The noise that comes from this can be spine chilling similar to someone’s fingernails scratching a blackboard.

The noise will normally appear when driving away from the stop position or when braking on the pedal lightly, if breaking quickly the noise will normally stop. If the noise persists when driving around then it is probably best to get the vehicle checked. This can be something as simple as a stone trapped in your brake mechanism, a worn or seized brake caliper.

There are though, some manufacturers who have a metal wear indicator which touches the rotor and screeches if the brake pads are worn out. It is far better for the safety of both the driver and passengers if there is a constant noise to have the breaks tested by a professional brake specialist.

The break pad materials can cause intermittent squeaking noises. Years ago the material used for these was asbestos, the car was quiet and stopped but all the dust it generated was bad for the lungs. Material that is used today could well be classed as organic or metallic the two materials both act differently and one quieter than the other.

The pads made with organic materials can be a lot quieter but will wear a lot faster; these are not beneficial if the brakes are to be used severely. While the metallic ones can be used for severe breaking conditions of which a high break heat will be generated. Metallic material gives a better brake performance when severe and repeated braking is needed and will last longer, but these will make a lot more noise of squeaking and squealing.

It will all depend on what cars are intended or suggested for as to what materials a manufacturer will use but still use both types of brake fiction material. If for example brake pads made of organic material were replaced with metallic this can cause the vehicles brakes to squeak. Manufacturers like to use original brake pad materials to help reduce noise and better still increase durability.

It is virtually impossible to emit brakes from screeching and most manufacturers will state in owner’s manuals that the odd squeak from a brake is normal; even so there are still some ways that the noise can be reduced. It is known for instance that there are some foreign manufacturers who use stainless steel shims behind pads to reduce vibration; these are not normally added to un-shimmed vehicles.

The other causes for brake noises can be brake pads loose in their mounts; these can be tightened sometimes if they have metal tabs which are then bent to tighten the pads. The problem can also arise if the pad has become loose due to wear on the break caliper positioning surface. If this is the problem then the brake caliper will have to be replaced to correct the problem as there is no alternative.

It is possible sometimes to be able to reduce or eliminate the squeak or squeal through coating the back side of the pad using an anti-squeak material. Manufacturers have brake parts made of several types of material; one is like a silicone rubber which cushions the brake pad to the caliper stopping the pad from vibrating. Other types of material are similar to lubricants allowing the pads to vibrate without screeching. If you feel you have a problem with your brakes it is safer to ask your local garage to investigate the problem.

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Brake vibration

2008-11-22T09:04:00.000-08:00

On a number of newer vehicles these days there is a concern regarding brake pulsation, there may be those of you who have experienced this problem, when new the vehicle may stop smoothly. It is later perhaps when you have driven a several thousand kilometers the brake pedal begins to pulsate during braking.

The brakes, for instance, may seem as though they are grabbing and releasing and to stop smoothly is impossible. The problem may have arisen following the removal of the wheels. This was virtually unheard of in the late 70’s and 80’s and you may ask why it happens now.

It is all to do with the weight. The idea is that by increasing the fuel efficiency in new cars, this will help to decrease manufacturing costs, so the accounts department or “bean counters” as they are sometimes referred to, tries to ensure that each part of a vehicle is reduced in weight as much as possible.

This may sound fine and for the majority of parts, it works well. But a brake system engineer may say that for brake rotors, heavier is better. The heavier the brake rotors the more heat they absorb fading less giving a better braking performance, are more stable and rarely warp as this is a cause of pulsating brakes.

Brake engineers may sometimes get their own way. Unfortunately, it is the accountants that win and brake rotors are built to weigh less. Then the problems may start. It is possible to make brake rotors that are light, stable and powerful.

On racing cars carbon fiber/ceramic rotors can be obtained and used, but for the average passenger vehicle the cost would be too high. The Porsche 911 Turbo model offers a higher performance brake option, and stops in an amazingly short distance with its stock brake system.

Many are stuck using standard cast brake rotors. But if these aren’t handled properly, they will warp and then it’s the start of pulsating brakes. When the rotor becomes warped, it wears from side to side unevenly, causing it to rub against the brake pads. Eventually, the sides of the rotor cannot remain parallel to each other any longer.

Tolerances for parallelism quite often are less than 0005 inch maximum or for example ¼ of a hair's thickness. If rotor sides aren't parallel, this will cause the pistons in the brake calipers to make the brake pads push in and out at a rapid pace. It is this fast motion being transmitted via the break system into the pedal that you feel as a pulsation.

Something as simple as changing a tire can cause rotor warpage. For instance, when changing the tire, if there is rust, dirt or corrosion in-between the wheel and the brake rotor when putting it back, it will be clamped unevenly and this can cause the rotor to warp.

When tightening wheel nuts, care has to be taken. If tightened incorrectly, this can also warp the rotor. It is far better when fitting a wheel to tighten the wheel nuts in two stages by doing an alternating in a criss-cross pattern. On modern vehicles a torque wrench is critical; there are some wheel shops that tighten the nuts using air impacts.

Torque sticks are used by many as these are designed to limit the torque on nuts. Neither one is sufficiently accurate for today’s modern cars. Try to make sure that a torque wrench is used. Any brake pulsations after the wheel has been changed may mean having to loosen the wheel nuts and re-torque. This is best done sooner rather than later and the rotor will normally correct itself, leaving it longer may result in it staying warped.

Brake rotor run-out can also be a cause of pulsing brakes. There are many manufacturers that allow a rotor and hub to wobble up to 003 inch due to machine tolerances and it will wobble too much, acting as though it has warped. There are cars that are sensitive to rotor run-out if more than 001 inch, which will cause brake pulsations will occur.

Probably it is better to correct a run-out to less than 001 inch. An answer to this is to machine rotors in their place whilse on the car rather than using the off-car brake lathes that most workshops use, this way run-out for both rotor and hub will be corrected. It is due to the cost of these machines that many repair shops unfortunately don’t have one.

It is better to take certain steps in trying to prevent or correct brake pulsations, mounting surfaces should be kept clean, if machining rotors make sure sides are parallel, rotor run-out should be kept to a minimum, to torque wheel nuts always maintain to use the proper procedure, hopefully brake pulsations will be in the past for your vehicle.

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Putting a STOP to Common Brake Problems

2008-11-21T15:37:00.000-08:00

Are you interested in putting a STOP to common brake problems? The brake unit of an automobile is essential when it comes to proper vehicular use and reliability. This system allows you to control when the forward and/or reverse motion of the vehicle is slowed, or completely halted. There are many different components that work in conjunction with one another when it comes to the brake system of the standard automobile. If you own and operate a motor vehicle, it is in your best interest to ensure that you become familiar with these components, as well as some of the common brake problems that may occur during use. Here, you will be introduced to just that!

Components of the Brake System

The average brake system consists of many different components that work closely together in order to provide a sound means of slowing and stopping when necessary. The following indicates the various components that you are likely to find when maintaining and/or repairing your vehicle’s brake system:

1. There is a set of brakes on the front that are referred to as “disk”. You may also find that these types of brakes are on the rear of the vehicle. In some instances, the back brakes may have “drum” type brakes.

2. On each wheel of the vehicle, there are a number of hoses that connect the brakes on the wheels to the unit that is typically located in front of the driver’s side of the vehicle on top of the motor, called the “master cylinder”.

3. On top or to the side of the master cylinder is a plastic casing that holds and distributes brake fluid through the hoses that connect to the wheels of the vehicle.

When addressing common brake problems, it is important that you are comfortable with the various components of the system. If so, troubleshooting and resolving complications can be done with ease.

Common Brake Problems

One of the most common issues that many people experience when it comes to their brakes is that they make a loud, squealing sound when pressed with the foot. Ultimately, this is not a serious issue and can be resolved relatively quickly and easily. The following represents some common culprits:

1. The first thing you may want to consider is that the brake pads may be worn down to the point where the “metal is hitting metal”. The noise that is heard is basically a warning to drivers that it is time to throw on some new brake pads.

2. If you take a look at the brake pads and they have a lot of “meat” on them, and they seem to be “healthy”, the issue may be that you are missing what is called a “gasket”. You will need to look to the side of the brake pad, and right before the piston. If you do not see a small, metal gasket, then it may be time to replace this component.

Lack of brake pressure is another issue that may occur when it comes to the brake system of your vehicle. You can tell when this occurs because when you press on the pedal that controls the brakes in the car, you find that the pedal easily goes straight to the floor. There are typically three issues that may be occurring, ranging from a mild issue to a severe complication that may result in hundreds of dollars in repairs:

1. The first thing that you will want to do is check the brake fluid in the automobile. There is a reservoir that sits atop the master cylinder, or maybe to the side. Ensure that brake fluid goes all the way to the fill line. If it doesn’t simply add more fluid.

2. Now, there may come a situation in which air actually enters into the brake fluid in the reservoir and works its way into the brake lines and moves throughout the system. This can be a challenging situation. The best solution for this problem is to take the brake system and “bleed” them.

3. The most complicated and expensive of all possible scenarios is that the actual master cylinder component of the brake system may be faulty. There is no quick fix or easy repair kits for this situation. You will need to actually replace the master cylinder, and this is not cheap – especially if it is professionally done.

In Conclusion

The brake system of the motor vehicle is an essential and intricate system that works to assist you in slowing and completely stopping the vehicle when it becomes necessary to do so. There are many common brake problems that may occur. The two mentioned here are among the most experienced situations by drivers. By learning what you can about the issues that occur within this system, you can save yourself hundreds, possibly thousands of dollars. In addition to this, you can rest assured that you and others on the road are safe.

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The importance of brake fluid checks

2008-11-20T15:34:00.000-08:00

The one feature your vehicle has that is very important is the brakes, without these functioning properly a serious collision or accident could occur. There are so many vehicle owners who may admit that they don’t keep a check on their vehicles brake fluid as much as they should.

Manufacturers themselves never seem to give out the necessary information regarding when to change brake fluid. As long as you check the fluid level and it is up then this is okay, changing the fluid when necessary can protect the braking system from corrosion.

There is some country’s for instance like Canada where the specifications of brake fluid come under regulation by transport Canada. They don’t actually define brake fluid but they set the necessary criteria it has to meet. For example, it has to be able to flow in cold weather, compatible with different components in the braking system, and boil at high temperatures. In the U.S.A, they too have similar specifications from the Department of Transport, (DOT), and the brake fluids are labeled as to how they meet different classes.

Many vehicle makers use DOT 3 type fluid although there may be some who prefer to use DOT 4 type fluid because this fluid has a boiling point that is higher. These two fluids are both glycol-based and are hygroscopic, this term simply put means they will both absorb water. If a container is left open, it absorbs moisture from the air, whilst the brake system, over years, will slowly absorb water through rubber hoses and other parts.

There is another brake fluid that is silicone based. This is classed as DOT 5.0 or 5.1 types. These fluids have a blue dye put in that makes it visibly different to other brake fluids. The advantage of silicone-based brake fluid is that it isn't hygroscopic and therefore won't cause damage to any painted parts; however, it will pass through smaller pores and won’t provide as good a seal.

The majority of vehicle manufacturers prefer to use DOT 3 fluid in their factories. Mixing two different types of fluids should never be done. Those who wish to use a silicone based brake fluid will have to clean the entire system of glycol-based fluid.

There are many who ask the question when should brake fluid be changed or flushed, there may be no definite answer as there are different opinions to this question. In the U.S.A, for example, research has been done by Maintenance Services Task Force of the Automotive Maintenance Services and Repair Association (AMRA) and the same opinion applies.

As mentioned before, water in brake fluid can cause corrosion, leaving deposits of sludge in the brake system. Many also believe that dark colored brake fluid should be changed to a light amber color. AMRA may surprise a lot of people with their surprise findings and for many sorts out the difference of opinion.

The myth regarding the color of brake fluid can quickly be solved in that this is not an indicator of the brake fluids quality. The color of several brake fluids can change naturally when the fluid is in contact with the brake systems rubber components. Tests that have been carried out shown that dark is still good and light amber fluid was poor.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and having water in the brake fluid will lower the boiling point and therefore may not work as well. Water causes problems with corrosion but there are no tests available to check the water content of brake fluids. Through research, it has been found only a small amount of water is absorbed into the brake system. The rubber materials have improved greatly, therefore helping the seal to keep moisture out a lot better. The plastic see- through reservoirs limits the brake system being open to the air.

It is corrosion inhibitors in brake fluid that help to reduce breaking down of materials in the brake system. These inhibitors eventually wear out with age, water content, heat from the high braking system, and the copper in the brake lining will start to corrode. As the amount of copper ions build up in brake fluid, these act as oxidizers and other parts will begin to corrode. These can be the ABS valves and the master cylinders.

It is possible to check for copper content using paper strips that will change color if there is a high content of copper. Most service shops may use these but there may be some who don’t. If not, then they won’t actually know whether the brake fluid is good or should be changed. To be on the side caution in a situation like this, it may be better to have the brake system flushed and clean brake fluid put in. This can save you a lot of money as corrosion related repairs are very expensive and more important, you want to be sure your brake system stops works as you want it to.

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Safe and Successful Vehicle Boosting

2008-11-19T15:45:00.000-08:00

You know the scene. You walk to your car, open the door, climb in, and insert your keys into the ignition. Click, click, click, click. Nothing. You whisper a prayer, "Please, God, make it start this time." Click, click, click, click. Nothing. You glance at the fuel gage. Half a tank left. You glance at the headlights. Grrrrr! You left them on. Your battery is dead. You need a boost, a.k.a. a jump-start, to get you moving.

Fortunately for you, this is not a major car repair. But it is a repair of sorts that should never be taken lightly. The smart driver will know that this day is bound to come at some time or another and will be already prepared with a set of high quality booster cables that are at least fifteen feet long, so they will easily be able to reach from the boosting car’s battery to the dead battery.

Before starting the boosting procedure, turn off all accessories on both vehicles such as the headlights, radio, air conditioner, windshield wipers, et cetera. This will help prevent any power surges that could affect these items, but more importantly, it will keep these accessories from consuming more available power than the alternator is producing while the engine is idling. You should leave the boosting vehicle at an idle.

When you look under the hood of each car, you will locate the battery by looking for a plastic bright red cap or post labeled with a "+" sign. Close by, you will also see a black post or cap labeled with a "-" sign. Lift up any post-covering caps, and inspect all battery posts to make sure they do not have loose, dirty, or corroded connections. If they are loose, tighten them the best that you can and then get them completely tightened as soon as you are able to prevent future discharging of the battery. If they are dirty, you can wipe them with a rag. If there is corrosion, then you can pour an acidic drink such as soda water or a carbonated beverage over the post.

Now it is time to start connecting the cables to the posts. In order to ensure maximum safety, you should be careful to always put the cables on and take them off in a very specific order. IMPORTANT! Once you start making the connections, never let the ends of the cables touch each other or any other unintended metal. Many batteries have full plastic handles used for lifting them. You can opt to carefully attach the cable ends to the plastic handle to prevent accidentally touching any unintended metal.

STEP ONE

Attach the red, positive + cable to the post of the DEAD BATTERY! A good way to remember which goes first is by remembering this rhyme: Red to dead.

STEP TWO

Attach the other end’s red, positive + cable to the post of the BOOSTING BATTERY.

STEP THREE

Attach the black, negative " - " cable to the post of the BOOSTING BATTERY. If the boosting vehicle’s battery does not have an exposed negative " - " battery post, then connect the cable clamp to an unpainted piece of metal eighteen inches away from the battery. (The engine block is usually a safe alternative.)

Be very careful not to allow the cable or the clamp to come in close contact with any moving parts such as the radiator fan or any of the belts.

STEP FOUR

Attach the black, negative " - " cable to an unpainted piece of metal eighteen inches away from the DEAD BATTERY. (Again, the engine block is usually a safe alternative.) If all cables are properly connected, this final negative cable should produce a slight spark. If it doesn’t, go back and check the connections of each clamp.

It is important to ensure that neither the cable nor the clamp come in close contact with any moving parts such as the radiator fan or any of the belts.

STEP FIVE

Rev the engine of the boosting battery to 2000 RPM and hold it for two minutes. (This step may not be necessary, but it is helpful for speeding up the charging of an especially discharged battery.)

STEP SIX

Attempt to crank the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery. If it does not start, wait an additional two to four minutes before trying again.

STEP SEVEN

Once the car is started, remove the cables in the reverse order of how you put them on. First, you will remove the black, negative clamp from the previously dead vehicle. Second, you will remove the black, negative clamp from the boosting vehicle. Third, you will remove the red, positive clamp from the boosting vehicle. Fourth, you will remove the red, positive clamp from the previously dead vehicle.

STEP EIGHT

Run the newly boosted vehicle for a minimum of fifteen minutes to adequately recharge the battery before turning it off.

Now that you are an expert vehicle booster, keep your eyes out for other stranded motorists. They will be so grateful!

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Bolt Tightening Technique

2008-11-17T15:39:00.000-08:00

Time and technology has changed the way many cars are put together these days, there have been many new introductions for example like plastic clips, adhesive and Velcro, replacing trim nails and screws that normally held panels together in the past. There is still the use of bolts when assembling mechanical components, but even some of these has changed. Today, on major assemblies, torque to yield bolts are used in engines.

These bolts stretch to the yield point when tightened; the bolts are often used when exact clamping loads are needed on parts, they can be used on connecting rods, crankshaft main bearing caps, cylinder heads, front engine dampers and even flywheels. Torque to yield bolts will no doubt be used if the shop manual indicates a bolt needs to be discarded and replaced with a new one.

This can become expensive and a total waste of time if you have to buy new bolts all the time. Too many these old bolts may still look usable but beware looks can deceive, if using old bolts it may cause engine failure an expense nobody wants. Through the process of tightening bolts it pulls them to their elastic limit due to stretching, that’s why new ones are needed to give maximum force on today’s engines.

It is easy to understand if you tighten a bolt to much then the harder it is for it to become accurate on a clamping load. Friction occurs when tightening bolts these are like a ramp, when turning this has to slide against another thread or ramp in the bolthole. The tighter it goes the harder it becomes to move or push up the threads ramp.

When stationary the term used is stiction as against friction, as the bolt becomes tighter it is the station that will affect a torque reading. People may use lubrication to help threads slide easier but the quality between one lubricant and another can vary. It is far easier to follow manufacturer’s guidelines for the best type of lubricant that is needed for the bolt when tightening. This is important because if you use the wrong lubricant it may become too tight or not tight enough.

There are several stages to follow when tightening torque to yield bolts this is done using both a torque and turning angle. The first step is to tighten the bolt to a low torque specification, this is done to ensure even clamping load is in place when parts are assembled. The second stage is to tighten again slightly to the higher torque stage. This will still allow enough friction and stiction on the bolt threads as the torque is tightened very little. The normal procedure after this is too turn each bolt a specified number of degrees normally two to three steps. As an example, the bolt might be turned 90 degrees, and then another 90 degrees until a further 70 degrees has tightened the bolt sufficiently. This will ensure the clamping force that has been exerted by the bolts is both accurate and even.

Special tools are used that can measure the degrees a wrench or bolt has been turned, these are low cost protractors that has a movable pointer, whilst some tools use electronics when measuring a turning angle these can cost several hundred dollars. These two types both work well and though the electronic one is more expensive it actually can make the job go faster.

Some may ask the question why are the torque to yield bolts needed now? When perhaps they weren’t needed in the 1960’s or 70’s. The answer to that question is quite simple in that engine materials are different now. For example, the aluminum cylinder heads expand differently to cast iron blocks. When an engine warms up, all the parts bolted together have to be able to slide on their gaskets or move against each other. Because of the elasticity in the torque to yield bolts allows movement between the parts but still maintains even sealing and clamping loads.

Engine parts today are a lot lighter than decades ago, the heavy cast iron parts was able to take variations in torque without failing. Aluminum alloys and thin wall castings that are used today need accurate torque if this is incorrect then leaks or warping can occur.

Today the design of engines is changing due to the need of even clamping forces, the car manufacturer Ford have prototype engines where bolts which hold the cylinder head on can go all through the engine block threading into the bottom casting which holds the crankshaft. It’s hard to imagine that only a few bolts can hold a complete engine together. This would definitely change the way engines where assembled and disassembled in the future.

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Choosing the right body shop

2008-11-14T15:51:00.000-08:00

It may be one of many people’s nightmares to have to go and seek out the correct body shop, having to find a good body shop or fender bender as some may call them is not always easy. The possibility of having to go and see one at some point of your driving career is more than likely, maybe through no fault of yours it may be that someone has by accident scratched the paint on your car.

If you happen to have the paint scratched on your car then the first point of call is your local body shop. Or there are always those who want their vehicle customized, or adding extra parts to the vehicle that will have to be sprayed at the body shop. When customizing your vehicle, for example, and wanting a complete paint job, it is best to shop around before parting with any money to choose the right body shop.

Dark dank body shops are a thing of the past, although you may come across one down some back alley somewhere. Today though, the majority of body shops are clean, airy, quality tools on show with clean working environments. Having said this, you still have to ensure that even though everything looks smart and clean, at the end of the day, it is the work that matters.

Most of today’s body shops are very clean, neat and very well lit. These are usually the ones at the top end of the scale. It is normal for a well run body shop to have different areas of work designated. For example, there may be an estimating area; this is the area you will bring your vehicle to get an estimate on repairs and where your finished vehicle will be presented. This will normally be well lit so damage on the vehicle can easily be spotted.

If there is major damage on the vehicle then it will be removed to the area set up for disassembly and onto a frame machine. There are fewer cars now that have a true frame, the machine now is really used in straightening the uni-body construction this is typical on most of the modern cars. The term uni-body basically means that sheet metal is stamped, formed, and welded together, forming the structural part of the car's body.

It is critical to measure the vehicle's body for correct uni-body alignment. If, for example, there is one millimeter error then that is all manufacturers will allow. Many body shops use a laser measuring system alongside a frame machine these are used to make certain everything is properly straightened.

Once the uni-body is straight and correct the next stage is moving the vehicle to the area for metal work. Here, new sheet metal will be mounted and any panels with damage are straightened. This is accomplished by skillful technicians using dollies and hammers. Even today though, work done by technicians has changed by technology. If you look above, there will be vacuum lines connected to sanders and grinders; these are to pull any dirt and dust away from this area of the shop. It is amazing how clean these areas are kept.

Once the metal work has been completed, the next stage is the paint prep area, normally in this area dust extraction systems are used to remove any dust that occurs during sanding and paint primer spraying. Body shops use infrared light systems in this area to cure paint primer quickly. These lights usually speed up the drying time, allowing the primer to cure in 20 minutes rather than 24 hours; therefore, your car is ready to go a lot quicker.

The next step will be for the vehicle to move to the paint booth where all the final colors and clear coats will be applied. Many body shops will have different booths the best ones being “downdraft” units these have filtered fresh air entering the top of the booth, any over-spray is drained out through grates in the floor. This produces the best paint finishes, however, as with everything, it’s the operators that make the difference.

The most important thing at this later stage is that the vehicle gets finished in a paint booth that is clean and dust free. This outweighs a dirty booth of a fantastic design. This is when maybe you should ask to see any finished vehicles in the body shop to check the painters work before leaving your vehicle and any money is spent. The things to look for are, smooth finishes that have very few dust specs and ensure the colors match from one panel to another. These are evidence of a quality paint spray done by a professional.

The final stage for the vehicle is the area for final assembly where the trim is re-attached, after which the car will be thoroughly cleaned and readied for you to collect or be delivered. If you have a body shop in mind or have had one recommended then ask for a tour around their facilities. Most good body shops will be more than happy to oblige. If not, then beware.

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THE POWER OF POWER: KEEPING YOUR CAR READY TO REV

2008-11-13T15:41:00.000-08:00

With today's highly accessorized automobiles, there is a constant drain on our batteries even when the car is not in use. That, combined with cold weather and regular wear and tear on your battery, you may find many mornings that you go out to the car, crank it, and then hear that dreaded sound of your battery struggling to provide enough power to get your engine going. The longer it takes to get your engine started, the more drain there will be on the battery. Without the benefit of the alternator, it will not take long before your battery loses all power and starting your car will be impossible without a boost.

WHAT FACTORS CONTRIBUTE TO A BATTERY LOSING POWER?

While cold weather is certainly a strong contributor to power loss in batteries, there are many other factors that exist in all kinds of weather and all kinds of situations that could cause you to be suddenly stranded. An inside light may have been left on for an extended period of time. There may be electronic accessories left plugged into charging ports (a.k.a. cigarette lighters). Many cars have electronics and accessories that constantly use power while the car in a parked position. Sometimes, you may even be sitting in the car long after it has stopped listening to the radio, talking on the phone, or waiting for an appointed time to arrive and inadvertently leave your foot rested on the brake pedal, causing a drain on the battery as the brake lights are illuminated.

Something to take into consideration is that, even if your battery is able to start your vehicle every time, a battery that sits without a full charge will tend to reduce the battery's life span. This is especially true of a vehicle that is not used on a daily basis.

WHAT ARE MY OPTIONS SHORT OF KEEPING A SPARE FULLY CHARGED BATTERY IN THE TRUNK?

There are devices that are widely available called battery maintainers that specifically address these kinds of situations. There are various types of battery maintainers. Trickle chargers (a.k.a. Taper chargers), full electronic chargers, and solar panel chargers are the main options you would consider.

TELL ME ABOUT TRICKLE CHARGERS.

A trickle charger is a device that, when plugged in, will put one to two amps of current into your 12V battery. As the battery becomes fully charged, the charge rate reduces or tapers off. A potential problem with this form of battery maintainer is that current continues to flow into the battery even after the battery is fully charged. This can cause the battery to overheat, reducing the life of the battery. Some companies have started to acknowledge this flaw and have engineered measures into the device to prevent overcharging.

SOLAR PANEL MAINTAINERS SOUND ECOFRIENDLY; WHAT ABOUT THEM?

Solar panel maintainers actually harness the energy of the sun and keep your battery charged at optimal level. The obvious requirement for this type of maintainer is that you have access to the sun. This type of device will not work for a car that is parked in a garage, under a carport, or in any other area where access to direct sunlight will be restricted. That also means that nighttime maintenance will be limited to stored energy. If those constraints are not a problem, then this is a great option for battery maintenance, as the energy available from the sun is a sure thing!

These devices include a small solar panel that sits on your dashboard or any other place in your car with sunlight access. Look for models that have both a cigarette lighter charging option and alligator slips that connect directly to your battery. This will prevent problems if you use it in a vehicle whose cigarette lighter adapter only works when the vehicle is turned on.

HOW DO ELECTRONIC MAINTAINERS WORK?

This form of battery maintainer uses electronics that are in the actual unit to monitor the battery's voltage. As the voltage reduces, the maintainer will usually apply a charge of 14 volts to bring the battery to a full charge. It will then reduce the charging voltage to a charge maintenance level of approximately 12.8 tp 13.2 volts. The additional voltage maintained in the charged battery will help the maintainer device to overcome any resistance between the device ant the battery and keep the battery in a fully charged and active state without overheating and the resultant loss of battery life.

WHERE SHOULD I USE A MAINTAINER?

Any battery will discharge while not in use. A lead in a battery that is fully discharged for twelve hours will begin to sulphate. Eventually the sulfates will crystallize, preventing recharge. A battery that discharges completely WILL LOSE LONGEVITY. If you have a boat, motorcycle, classic collector car, an infrequently used car, a recreational vehicle, or a battery powered lawn mower, the use of a maintainer will help your battery to last the seven years or so that it was intended to last. Remember that it takes at least fifteen minutes for the typical alternator to fully charge a battery, so a quick crank every now and then is not going to be sufficient.

These inexpensive devices are easy to use and will pay for themselves over and over in reduced frustration, peace of mind, and the prevention of replacement costs. Everyone in your family should have one for every vehicle they own. I think I just heard someone say, "I just finished my Christmas shopping!" Happy motoring!

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