http://www.naturesearth.com/vetchat en slabuskes@getconcentric.com Copyright 2009 2009-08-03T14:33:38+00:00 http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/take-your-cat-to-the-veterinarian-its-important/ http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/take-your-cat-to-the-veterinarian-its-important/#When:14:33:38Z To many cat guardians, cats are independent creatures who only need food, water and affection. It’s not uncommon for cats to never set a paw into a veterinary hospital after they have been spayed or neutered and received their first vaccines as kittens. Years pass and one day the kitty needs to be seen by a veterinarian. Most times, that exam finds a number of problems that could have been addressed simply (and inexpensively) years earlier. Unlike dogs, who are typically brought to the veterinarian at least annually for heartworm testing and some vaccines, many cats don’t receive the same type of care. However, the annual exam for cats is really the cornerstone of a sound, preventative health program and can add years to your cat’s life and improve his or her well-being. This month, Feline Pine will sponsor the first National “Take Your Cat To The Vet Day,” on August 22nd, with the goal of getting the word out that our cats need to be seen by a veterinarian at least once a year. The annual event is part of Feline Pine’s overall commitment to cat health. Travel to the Vet While it’s true that most cats don’t relish car rides, taking the cat to the veterinarian need not be a feat that requires super-human strength and will. Acclimating your cat to the carrier, by having it out and available for “cat naps,” helps to minimize the fear that many cats have when they see the carrier brought out once a year. Placing treats or catnip in the carrier and using a pleasing pheromone spray all can help to make the carrier tolerable to most cats. Most cats resent being forced and pushed into the carrier. An easier way of loading the kitty into the carrier is to stand the carrier up on its back end and, while holding the kitty in a vertical position (with the front limbs and hind limbs gently held together), easing the cat down into the carrier. Cats who cannot be safely loaded into a carrier, as well as those who live with guardians who either cannot leave the home or have no transportation, can be examined by one of an increasing number of veterinarians who provide house call services. How the Exam has changed Until recently, veterinarians stressed the need for vaccines – and not the annual exam – for cats and dogs. However, modern veterinary medicine, spearheaded by the efforts of the American Association of Feline Practitioners, now recommends fewer vaccines, often given at three-year intervals, for most cats. The exam, in part, helps the doctor establish what vaccines should be administered, so that the exam “leads” the vaccines, not the other way around. For most cats, a non-adjuvanted rabies vaccine is administered annually, with adult cats receiving vaccines for feline distemper (panleukopenia) and upper respiratory tract infection every three years after the initial kitten series and boosters at about one year of age. Depending upon the cat’s lifestyle and age, feline leukemia vaccines may be given either annually or at a longer interval. A thorough physical exam is much more than taking a cat’s temperature, opening the mouth and examining the teeth and listening to the heartbeat. Prior to beginning the exam, the veterinarian typically asks about any problems the client has observed with their kitty. Have there been any changes in urination or defecation? Has the appetite been normal? Has there been any coughing or sneezing? Has the cat vomited food, fluid and or hair? A weight is taken and checked against previous ones. If weight loss is demonstrated and there has been no need for a weight reduction program, that increases the veterinarian’s suspicion about the possibility of hyperthyroidism (due to overproduction of thyroid hormone in older cats), gastrointestinal disease, kidney disease and/or diabetes. Additional questions should be asked regarding the type of diet that is being fed, how much is fed during the day, and whether snacks or other treats are given. Although every veterinarian has his or her own way of conducting a physical exam, this is the approach I use for each and every patient. I do address the client’s major concerns (if any) in the start of the office call, but continue with a complete exam, regardless of the presenting problem: Beginning the Exam I begin my patient’s exam by looking at the kitty’s eyes, ears, nose, mouth and throat. I look for eye discharge, redness of the eyes, and signs of cataracts. Is there nasal discharge? Using an otoscope, I evaluate the ear canals for redness, discharge, signs of ear mites, tumors or polyps and examine the ear drums for indications of inflammation. The mouth is gently opened and the teeth and gums are examined, as well as the tongue (top and underside). Tartar, periodontal disease and masses are identified and noted. The gum color may give an indication of anemia (pale gums), fever (brick red gums), liver disease (yellow-tinged gums) or difficulty with the heart or lungs (purple or lavender gums). The underside of the neck is palpated for the presence of possible thyroid goiters. Lymph Nodes An exam should include the gentle palpation of lymph nodes that are located under the jaw, in front of the shoulders, under the arms, between the hind legs and behind the knees (stifles). Swellings In these areas may be due to inflammation in the area of the body that these nodes drain (those under the jaw, for example, may be enlarged due to dental disease), tumors (such as lymphosarcoma) or infectious diseases. Heart check The heart and lungs are then examined. Unfortunately, cats with heart disease don’t always have a murmur or rhythm disturbance. However, the finding of a murmur would prompt me to suggest radiographs of the chest and perhaps an echocardiogram. Decreased lung sounds may be due to fluid outside the lungs (pleural effusion). Cats with asthma often have wheezes and crackles (which sound like the rustling of cellophane). Abdominal Check A thorough, gentle abdominal palpation allows the veterinarian to assess the liver, kidneys, intestines, associated lymph nodes, pancreas, bladder and, sometimes, the spleen (if enlarged). Small kidneys may prompt additional testing for kidney disease, thickened intestines may be due to inflammation (IBD) or cancer. Areas of tenderness are evaluated more carefully. Coat The skin, nails and fur of the cat are evaluated next. Light finger touch helps to identify even very small masses that need to be further evaluated. Patterns of hair loss are noted. Often times, cats who are over-grooming their abdomens have inflammatory conditions of the bladder (FLUTD) or intestinal tract. Cats who are licking the insides of their front limbs may have allergies to airborne substances. Often times, cats who have a very focal area of pain will over-groom that one area. Any masses that are found are measured and noted. The haircoat is examined for dandruff, greasiness, dryness and broken hairs. The nails are examined for discharge, masses and discolorations. Finally, the back is gently palpated for signs of pain and all four limbs are moved, to assess mobility and to check for decreased range of motion and pain. Exam Conculsion At the conclusion of the exam, I shut off the room lights and examine the back of the cat’s eyes, using a small light and a special lens. This exam helps me to look for signs of past or present inflammation, assess the blood vessels, which may be thick and tortuous, due to hypertension (high blood pressure) or sparse, even absent with central retinal degeneration. The final step in the exam is to take the patient’s temperature. As you can see, a thorough physical exam takes time, but provides a tremendous amount of information. It serves as a springboard for the rest of my time with the client, as we discuss any findings, additional diagnostics that are necessary and recommendations for further care. For a new patient, 60 minutes is generally what we allow for the office call. The examination takes easily half that time. Because our veterinary patients can’t talk, we need to use of senses of touch, vision and smell to give them a “voice.” I am often asked by physicians and others in the human healthcare field how veterinarians can possibly know what’s wrong with our patients. I generally explain that it’s no different that working with humans who are unable to articulate their problems to us. Despite rapidly developing medical technology a thorough physical examination never goes out of style. I hope that your kitties have had thorough exams this year and ask you to join the efforts of Feline Pine by spreading the word to your friends, family and co-workers that now is the time to bring their cats to the veterinarian for a physical exam. 2009-08-03T14:33:38+00:00 http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/the-purr-fect-kitten-is-definitely-pawsible/ http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/the-purr-fect-kitten-is-definitely-pawsible/#When:20:24:24Z Summer is “kitten season.” That’s because most unspayed female cats start heat cycles in the late Winter, as the days get longer. With a feline 63-day gestation period , that means most kittens are born during the Spring and Summer. If you are considering adding a kitten to your household, some thoughtful planning needs to be done prior to bringing home your new little friend. As a cat specialist, I am particularly interested in making sure that the kitten is not only healthy, but is socially, mentally and behaviorally sound and an excellent companion. With many cats now living well into their late teens and even to the early twenties, there is the potential for your new kitten to be part of your life for the next two decades. Starting off on the right “paw,” gives the best chance for a great life-long relationship with your new friend. First Things First Much has been written about the importance of establishing proper veterinary care, feeding schedules and cat box routines in our kittens. Regardless of where you get your kitten from (and I do hope that you’ll check your local shelter for homeless kittens and cats), taking him or her to the veterinarian within the first 72 hours is important. Feeding your kitten a proper diet, which most veterinarians now recommend as including a larger amount of canned food and a smaller amount (if any) of dry food, also is a must for the new kitten. Because intestinal upset can result from a diet change, keeping your new kitten on the diet that was fed at the shelter or in the home from which he or she came from during the first week or so, will eliminate the potential for problems. Any new diet, which should be chosen in conjunction with your veterinarian’s recommendations, can be slowly added. Choosing the proper cat box (having one more box than there are cats in the home and using an uncovered one that is roomy enough for the kitten to turn around in) will help to establish proper elimination habits for your kitten. Using a soft, scoopable cat box filler, like Feline Pine Scoop, will aid in your kitten’s consistent use of the box. Remember that no one — including your kitten — likes to use a “dirty bathroom,” so removing wastes at least once daily and cleaning the box completely once a week is mandatory. In previous columns Cat Box Blues, I have addressed how to trouble-shoot cat box problems and ensure that your kitten or cat is properly using the boxes. What often is missing from most kitten care recommendations is how important it is to choose a social kitten and what steps to take to make sure that the joys of having a kitten in the home won’t be marred by shredded curtains, destruction of cherished household objects (your Mom’s beautiful antique vase) or a life-threatening emergency with your baby feline. Is Your New Kitten’s Brain Properly Hard-Wired? Regardless where you get your kitten (shelter, private home , cattery or pet shop), it’s important not to make an impulse “purchase.” Kittens are some of the cutest beings on the planet, and it’s easy to fall in love with one (or two) and bring them home; only to have second thoughts about the lifetime commitment. Fortunately, most adoption agencies and catteries screen interested parties well, to try and avoid “buyer’s remorse.” Making sure that your kitten has interacted with other kittens and has been lovingly handled is key to choosing a well-socialized new friend. Kittens who lack proper socialization with other kittens often make very poor companions. The rough-and-tumble play of the litter actually “hard wires” kittens appropriately. The little orphan kitten who had to be bottle fed or the one who was an only kitten (singleton) often develops into a cat who is needy, afraid of humans and other cats, high-strung, poorly trainable, responds poorly to novel sights and sounds, and is very “high maintenance.” Love Is The Answer Gentle stroking and handling of kittens by humans actually accelerates their physical and central nervous system growth, makes them less afraid of humans, causes them to approach strange toys and people more readily. Kittens are most receptive to socializing from other kittens/cats and humans from two to seven weeks of age. The more gentle handling they have from people at this stage, the friendlier they will become. A kitten who is older and who didn’t have this type of handling often can make a very good companion, but it generally takes a bit more time and more patience. I generally do not recommend adopting kittens younger than eight weeks of age, since that ensures proper time spent with litter mates, full voluntary control of elimination, and that weaning has been completed. Look at a litter of kittens and you’ll probably see three distinct personalities: There’s the confident and easy-going kitten; the timid and nervous one; and the active playful and aggressive one. It is thought that the father’s genetics play a very important role in personality development of kittens. Play Time Is Kitten Work Time Kittens need to play and if not provided with appropriate play opportunities, can resort to very aggressive play, destructiveness and excessive night-time activity. In households where there is no adult or older, responsible child home during the day, a kitten can languish and become destructive. Because of this, most shelters will not adopt out kittens to households where there is no human presence during the day. Multiple play sessions not only help to bond the kitten with the family, but also provide a much-needed outlet for the little one. Kittens (and cats) generally love toys that can be batted, swatted at, or rolled. Feathers on a stick, ping-pong balls, wiggling ropes, etc. all are great kitten toys. Avoid all toys with parts that can be loosened (and swallowed) , as well as those that contain yarn, string or ribbon. Medical catastrophes can result from a kitten ingesting these. Allowing kittens to explore large paper sacks, purchasing a “cat tunnel” or “kitten activity center” provides excellent stimulation. Because kittens engage in much stalking and other predatory play behavior, they are prone to ambushing feet and legs of humans in the household, biting hands and climbing up the legs of humans. Shaking the leg or arm in an attempt to remove the kitten, typically only reinforces the biting and hanging on. It’s much better to stand still, remove the kitten and either give him or her a “time out” for several minutes in a quiet room or re-direct them with a toy. Faster Than A Speeding Kitten… Many new kitten companions are dismayed to find their kittens leaping up on draperies, jumping up on countertops and tables and sliding across shelves and mantles. The fact is that kittens and cats do jump and climb. If you cannot supervise your kitten at given times, placing him or her in a quiet room or a large cage with food, water , toys and a cat box is an option. Jumping up on countertops and tables can be discouraged by using double-sided sticky tape or using a water pistol or loud noise (pennies in a can) when the unwanted activity is seen. Physical punishment (hitting, slapping or shaking) a kitten should never be done. Punishments must be done at the time of the unwanted behavior. Late punishment is confusing to the kitten and often counter-productive. Your kitten’s penchant to climb can be addressed by the purchase of a tree. Many of these also have built-in tunnels or cubby holes for relaxing or sleeping. Kitty Yoga At The Scratching Post Scratching is a normal behavior and is used to mark territory, remove nail sheaths and provide some exercise (think of it as “kitty yoga”). From Day One in the new home, kittens should have access to one or more large, rope-covered scratching posts and should be shown how to use it. Scratching is typically done first thing in the morning and upon waking a kitten should be taken to the scratching posts and gently have their claws moved up and down . Kittens who use furniture or other off-limit objects to scratch should be taken to the post and shown how to use it. Using a synthetic facial marking pheromone spray (available at many pet supermarkets, on-line or through your veterinarian) can make the scratching post your kitten’s favorite go-to spot. Cats rub their faces on preferred areas and these sprays mimic that “feel good” aroma. Learning to trim your kitten’s nails and/or having your veterinarian show you how to use plastic nail caps for cats, will keep destructive scratching to a minimum. Declawing should be done as a last resort. With a bit of effort on your part, your kitten will be able to keep his or her claws and you’ll have furniture that won’t look like the work of a kitten “fiber artist.” Kitten Kindergartens Many veterinary hospitals and animal shelters are now offering kitten kindergartens, where new kitten companions can join others and learn about their new friends, while the kittens interact with one another. These programs not only allow for kittens to socialize with others, but give the humans an opportunity to learn about those endlessly entertaining little balls of fluff who eventually do grow up and become the graceful, loving, always fascinating companions we know as cats. 2009-06-15T20:24:24+00:00 http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/how-does-your-garden-grow-spring-summer-toxic-plants/ http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/how-does-your-garden-grow-spring-summer-toxic-plants/#When:13:30:04Z Spring brings a number of holidays (Easter, Passover and Mother’s Day) and flowering gifts are often part of the celebration. For those of us who garden, Spring also is the time for getting out in the dirt and planting Summer gardens. However, many common – and beautiful – plants are deadly to cats. Before you bring floral arrangement into your home, gift a friend with a bouquet, plant a border of day lillies, – or allow your cat to wander through a “green thumb” neighbor’s yard – it’s wise to know which plants to avoid, to keep our kitties safe and healthy. Lillies – including Easter lillies, Tiger lillies, Stargazer, Rubrum or Japanese showy lillies and daylillies – are particularly toxic to cats. In fact, just the pollen or a few bites of a leaf are enough to cause acute kidney failure within hours of exposure. The poison has yet to be identified. Cats with lilly poisoning often will vomit within a few hours after exposure. The cats can then appear normal, only to become very ill 24-72 hours later, with loss of appetite, vomiting, dehydration, low body temperature (hypothermia) and swelling of the face and paws. If aggressive treatment is started within 18 hours of exposure, the prognosis is generally good for saving the kitty’s life. Waiting more time, however, often results in death or a gravely ill patient who must be euthanized. If there is any chance that a cat has been exposed to any of the above lillies, seek veterinary help immediately, as even a few hours can make the difference between life and death. The veterinarian will get a blood sample, to check various chemistry values, and will obtain a urinalysis. Inducing vomiting, treating with activated charcoal and hospitalization with intra-venous fluids and other medications is necessary. To ensure that the patient is recovering, bloodwork is often repeated every 12 hours for approximately three days. In some cases, peritoneal dialysis is necessary to maintain the patient during the acute renal failure. If you are sending flowers via an on-line service or by calling in an order to a florist, it should be stipulated that these lillies should not be used in an arrangement. Since it’s sometimes not possible to direct the type of flowers that are included in a bouquet, sending non-toxic flowers (tulips or roses, for example) is a safe and lovely alternative. Remember that outdoor cats can be exposed to toxic lillies if they roam among daylilly borders. It may be worthwhile to discuss this danger (in addition to others) with family, friends and neighbors who allow their cats outside. Not every plant that has “lilly” in its name is poisonous, however. Lillies of the valley, for example, are not poisonous. Calla lillies, Peace lillies, Diffenbachia (mother-in-law’s tongue, dumb cane) and Philodendron, are among plants that contain oxalates. The oxalates are bundled as small needles in the plant and are released when the leaf is chewed. This results in inflammation, and, at times, swelling of the mouth and oral cavity. Cats who chew on these plants generally have immediate problems with increased salivation, swelling of the mouth and surrounding tissues and pawing at the mouth. In severe cases, vomiting, inability to eat, difficulty breathing, abdominal pain and diarrhea can occur. Cats who have eaten these plants should be evaluated by a veterinarian. Rinsing the mouth with cool water or milk can help to relieve the local irritation. More severe cases may require hospitalization, intravenous fluids, anti-vomiting drugs and various stomach and intestinal protectants. With the oxalate-containing plants, signs are generally mild and subside with a few hours. Azalea, Rhododendron, Rosebay contain grayanotoxins, which can cause severe intestinal, heart and central nervous system dysfunction. Grayanotoxins are found in the stems, leaves, flowers and nectar. As little as two leaves are enough to cause serious problems in cats. Vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, changes in heart rhythm, low blood pressure, shock and abdominal pain typically begin within 4-12 hours after ingestion and can persist for several days. Cats who have eaten these plants should be taken immediately to a veterinarian. Initial treatment includes inducing vomiting and treatment with activate charcoal. Intravenous fluids and other medications, as warranted by the clinical signs, are necessary. Onions and garlic are favorite flavor enhancers for humans, but these plants can cause cat red blood cells to burst (hemolysis). The blood can become brown (methemoglobinemia), with reduced oxygen carrying capacity, and a special type of anemia (Heinz body) can result. All parts of onions and garlic plants are toxic, as are powders and dried formulations. Feeding cats baby food flavored with onion powder can result in Heinz body anemia as well. The National Animal Poison Control Center lists other poisonous plants on its website: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/ The Center is staffed 24 hours a day, seven days a week and can be reached at 888-426-4435. There is a $60 consultation fee that is payable by credit card. 2009-04-14T13:30:04+00:00 http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/feline_hyperthyroidism_when_theres_too_much_of_a_good_thing/ http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/feline_hyperthyroidism_when_theres_too_much_of_a_good_thing/#When:22:10:40Z Maybe one of your older cats has seemed to have a “new lease of life.” He or she may be more active – even acting like a kitten – eating well, “chattier” than normal and perhaps losing some of that extra weight. Chances are that your kitty hasn’t found the feline “Fountain of Youth.” You may be living with a cat who has hyperthyroidism, the most common endocrine (glandular) disease of cats over seven years of age in the United States. The thyroid gland is shaped like a bow tie and lies on the trachea (windpipe). Thyroid hormone (thyroxine) helps to regulate many bodily functions, including, the metabolic rate, fat metabolism, the excitability of the heart, gastrointestinal tract motility and muscle function. When thyroxine is in excess, several things can occur: Fat stores decline (and the patient becomes thin), the heart rate increases, the appetite increases and the motility of the gastrointestinal tract speeds up. Without treatment, the typical hyperthyroid cat is a very active, thin kitty with an excellent appetite, a very fast heart rate and often diarrhea or vomiting. Many cat guardians mistakenly think that cats with these signs aren’t ill (in fact, many are thrilled that their once-sedate older friend is now acting like a youngster) and don’t take them to the veterinarian for an examination and labwork. That’s a mistake, as uncontrolled hyperthyroidism can have serious consequences, including high blood pressure, stroke and heart failure. Veterinarians who are presented with a kitty who is suspected to have hyperthyroidism will take a detailed history and conduct a thorough physical examination. Most cats with hyperthyroidism will have enlargement of one – or both – thyroid glands. As the veterinarian carefully palpates alongside the trachea with his or her thumb and first finger, the enlarged gland will often “pop” as the fingers gently pass over it. Cats also can have thyroid tissue anywhere from the base of the tongue to the base of the heart. Not all cats with enlarged thyroid glands are hyperthyroid. For the overwhelming majority of hyperthyroid cats, the thyroid gland enlargements are benign; only a small percentage of cats have malignant thyroid tumors. Hyperthyroidism is diagnosed on the basis of the clinical signs, a physical examination and labwork. Cats with hyperthyroidism most often have an elevated thyroid hormone (TT4) level and may also have elevations of liver enzymes. If your kitty has another disease (including kidney disease or gastrointestinal disease, for example), the TT4 may not be elevated and can be at the high end of the normal range. Additional lab tests and a radioisotope study may be necessary to definitively diagnose hyperthyroidism. There are three treatments for hyperthyroidism: 1. Drug therapy (methimazole) allows us to control the cat’s hyperthyroidism, but does not provide a cure for the disease. Hyperthyroid cats generally begin methimazole twice daily. 2. For cats who cannot be pilled, the veterinarian can prescribe a methimazole cream that is rubbed on the inside of the kitty’s ears. This transdermal formulation allows patients to be treated properly and avoids the cat guardian having to chase the kitty twice daily for administration of tablets. Transdermal methimazole is available through compounding pharmacies and is generally not readily available through local pharmacies, as the tablets are. Treatment with either methimazole tablets or the transdermal formulation is life-long and cannot be stopped. Often, cats require higher doses of the medication over time. Methimazole therapy can cause serious side effects, including elevation of liver enzymes, low white blood cell counts, low platelet counts (these are the cells that help the blood to clot), itchiness of the face that can lead to self-trauma, and gastrointestinal problems, including vomiting and loss of appetite. If these signs occur, the medication has to be discontinued and other treatments pursued. Generally the side effects occur in the first 90 days of methimazole therapy. 3. Cats can be cured of hyperthyroidism through surgery or radioactive iodine therapy. Surgical removal of the affected part(s) of the thyroid is possible, although many hyperthyroid cats are not excellent surgical candidates, due to their high heart rates. Thyroidectomy (removal of the affected thyroid gland) should only be done by an experienced surgeon, as there are potential serious complications with the procedure, including the inadvertent removal of the parathyroid glands, which control calcium metabolism. The “gold standard” of treatment for hyperthyroidism is I-131 therapy. This curative treatment involves the administration of one sub-cutaneous (under-the-skin) injection. Because this is a radioactive compound, the kitty is required to remain in the hospital for a specified period of time (generally 5-7 days). The cat is then released to his or her guardian with some requirements (no sleeping on the bed with his or her human for a specific period of time, avoidance of very young children, etc.) Because I-131 therapy requires certain requirements for the facilities where it is offered, it is generally found in veterinary referral centers, veterinary medical teaching hospitals affiliated with veterinary schools and specialized hospitals that only offer this therapy. Cat guardians who opt for surgery or I-131 therapy for their cats will typically have to administer methimazole for a period of time (generally several months) prior to each of these therapies. The reason for this is that it is important for the veterinarian to assess how well the kitty’s kidneys handle the decrease in thyroid hormone. When a cat is hyperthyroid, there is increased blood flow to all organs, including the kidneys. This increased blood flow can, ironically, benefit the kidneys, and in the case of cats with underlying kidney disease, can result in falsely normal values for the BUN and creatinine (two blood tests that are commonly assessed to check on kidney health). When the excess thyroid hormone is treated, the “hidden” kidney disease can be “unmasked.” For this reason, cats on methimazole are generally checked every three weeks for the first three months of treatment with labwork consisting of a complete blood count (CBC), urinalysis, chemistry profile, platelet count, TT4 and blood pressure check. After the initial three month period, the kitty is check periodically (generally every 4-6 months, depending on his or her general health). The prognosis for cats with hyperthyroidism who are treated appropriately is generally very good and most respond well with appropriate weight gain, reduced heart rates and a normal appetite. What causes hyperthyroidism? Over the years, a number of possible causes for this disease have been postulated. At present, there is increased interest in the possible link between flame retardants used in furniture and carpeting and hyperthyroidism in cats. Another possible link is the white film coating present on many pop-top cans, including those used for cat foods. As veterinarians and cat guardians are becoming more proactive with laboratory testing at wellness visits, hyperthyroidism is being diagnosed earlier in many cats. In fact, it’s possible for cats with normal weights (even obese ones) to have early hyperthyroidism. Prompt treatment of hyperthyroidism results in a kitty who doesn’t have to live with a racing heart and gastrointestinal upset and enjoys every single day. 2009-03-05T22:10:40+00:00 http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/for_the_love_of_cats/ http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/for_the_love_of_cats/#When:15:40:00Z February may be the shortest month, but it does have a big holiday in it : Valentine’s Day. If you’ve perused the Valentine’s Day greetings cards selections (like I have), you’ll see that cats and kittens are prominently featured on many of them.  And, why not?  Cats are important parts of many of our lives. What special things do YOU do to show your kitty that he or she is special?The cat-human bond is a huge part of both my professional and personal lives.  I spend the majority of my clinical time taking care of cats, from the youngest of kittens to very geriatric cats and also provide consultations in feline internal medicine to other veterinarians on the Veterinary Information Network (VIN). Every other month, I have the opportunity to share some information on cats and their health and wellness issues in this column for Feline Pine.  This month, I thought I’d use this column to let you know a little bit more about myself, and the importance of cats in my life.  Also I thought I would share some very simple tips on how you can show the cats in your life how much you love and appreciate them for all they do. Believe it or not, I share my home with five cats, all of whom provide laughs, coziness and that special “cat vibe.”  And, although I came rather late to being “owned by cats,” I wouldn’t trade my present situation for the world.  In fact, my life would be the poorer if I didn’t have a feline or (five) in the mix.  Probably like you, I can’t imagine life without cats! Although I didn’t grow up with cats in the home I enjoyed the few that graced the neighborhood of my childhood. It wasn’t until my college years that I met a family of cats that gave me my first inkling of how special the feline species actually is. When I met my husband, he had two cats and they were the first of many who have graced our home over the years.  I think I’m a better person for having known, loved (and been loved by) all of our cats. Like all of you who are reading this column, my cats have added so much enjoyment to my life through the years and I have always tried my best to give back to them in some small way.  After all they do for us, isn’t it our responsibility to make their lives as happy and healthy as possible? So in honor of cats, here’s a small list of things that YOU can do for your cat to show your love and appreciation everyday, besides of course the very basic one – providing proper veterinary care. 1. Put play into Everyday While we’re away from the home at work, school or performing our numerous duties, our cats are often sleeping the day away at home. The problem is that when we walk into the house, tired from the day’s commute and activities, our cats are raring to go!  No matter how tired you are, try to get in at least five or 10 minutes of playtime with your kitty everyday.  If you’re bright-eyed and bushy-tailed in the morning, that might be a better time to pick up your cat’s favorite toy and get him (and you moving).  That small amount of aerobic activity can benefit even our older cats. 2. Groom Daily Speaking of grooming, the loving act of actual brushing and massage is appreciated by most cats. Although our feline friends are generally excellent at daily upkeep, few say “No” to a daily spa time.  Use a soft brush or comb (the Furminator is a wonderful tool that really is a boon, especially to longhaired cats) and gently work at tangles and mats. Daily grooming allows you to keep on top of unusual changes in your cat’s skin and coat. Grooming should be a relaxing time for both your and your cat, and respect those “private” areas of their bodies where more TLC is necessary (typically the belly, armpits and inside thighs).  These short, daily sessions can help to release endorphins —natural “feel good” chemicals.  And, as you groom your kitty and hear his or her purr in contentment, chances are you’ll feel a release of the day’s tensions, too. 3.  Choose the Right Food I know you’ve heard me say it before – but 1 of the 2 MOST important things that you can do to positively effect the health and well being of your cat, is to provide them with healthy foods. Cats were designed to eat a meat-protein based diet, not just a dry food. Certain healthy can foods not only increase moisture in a cats diet, but they also love it. It’s a real treat for them. 4.  Choose the Right Litter In addition to food, the 2nd most important aspect of a cats overall health is litter.  We all know maintaining a clean cat box is important, but providing a safe, 100 % all natural litter, like Feline Pine Scoop ensures your kitty isn’t accidentally inhaling unnecessary dust and ingesting harsh chemicals when they groom themselves. 5.  Give your cat some “space.” Many of our indoor cats suffer from the stress that comes from being confined. However, living safely in your home need not be detrimental to your cat.  Make sure that there are places around the home where your cat can safely climb, explore and take a snooze.  Naptime in a quiet bed away from the noise and traffic of the household can greatly reduce your cat’s stress level and make for a happier cat.  Further recommendations can be found at The Indoor Cat Initiative website :  http://www.indoorcat.org Here’s hoping that love fills your home this month and every month.  I’ve shared with you some ways to show your cat how much you love him or her.  What special things do YOU do to show your kitty that he or she is special?  Let me know. 2009-02-18T15:40:00+00:00 http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/ring_in_the_new_year_with_a_healthier_happier_cat1/ http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/ring_in_the_new_year_with_a_healthier_happier_cat1/#When:18:46:01Z Many of us make resolutions for the New Year hoping to become healthier and happier. For those of us who are “owned by cats,” the New Year also may be the right time to assess your cat’s lifestyle and make 2009 his or her best year yet. As with any lifestyle change, slow and steady progress is the goal. Making even a few healthier changes may result in significant, positive impacts on your kitty’s overall wellness. I recommend taking the following to heart in order to make sure that the New Year is purr-fect for your feline friend: 1. Easy Does It. To most of us, our cats seem to have the easy life: good food, a cozy place to nap and none of the workday stresses we encounter. However, even in that seemingly blissful lifestyle, your cat can experience stress. This can result in lower urinary tract disease (FLUTD; formerly FUS) with straining to urinate and producing small amounts of bloody urine. The Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine’s Indoor Cat Initiative (http://www.indoorcat.org) has a wonderful website that helps cat guardians troubleshoot and decrease areas of stress in their cats’ lives and increase the quality of their lives. 2. Get the 411 on a Kitty 911. It’s important to know when you have a cat emergency. Vomiting, diarrhea, bleeding, changes in appetite, skin masses, pale or yellow gums, weakness, and hiding all can be seen in the sick cat. Because cats hide their illnesses well, by the time even the most dedicated cat guardian recognizes something is amiss, the kitty is usually quite ill. Make it a point to check that your cat is eating daily and that her urinations and defecations are normal. Straining to urinate in a male cat (which may look like he’s constipated) warrants a visit to your regular veterinarian or the local veterinary emergency service. When you pet your cat, check for changes in the skin and coat, as well as areas of discomfort. 3. Say “Ahhhhhh.” Dental disease, particularly gum disease, not only causes bad breath and pain, but the chronic inflammation of periodontitis can adversely affect many organs. Chipping off tartar with a fingernail or instrument without polishing makes the tooth surface more likely to accumulate tartar afterwards. If you kitty requires a dental cleaning, your veterinarian will discuss with you the reasons for pre-anesthesia lab work, the need for intravenous fluids during the procedure, along with heart, respiration and blood pressure monitoring that is standard in modern veterinary practice. 4. Cats Are What They Eat, Too. Our cats were designed to eat a meat-based diet, not a bowl of dry kibble. Many cats who are on a dry, high-carbohydrate diet pack on unnecessary pounds and become at risk for diabetes, as well as joint disease. Offering canned foods, increasing the moisture in your cat’s diet through circulating water fountains and adding low-sodium chicken broth, tuna or clam juice, can reap dividends. Avoid fad diets (such as those that are only meat) and other feeding choices, which may be unbalanced and place the cat at risk for calcium and phosphorous imbalances. When in doubt, contact your veterinarian or a nutritionist at the nearest veterinary school for recommendations. Because cats have unique dietary requirements, home-cooked diets can be problematic. Remember that cats can and will starve themselves when offered a diet they don’t find palatable. 5. An Active Cat Is a Happy Cat Even indoor cats can exercise. Aim for at least 20 minutes of playtime with your kitty every day. Does she like to watch the birds outside? A feather on a stick may be just the ticket. Does he chatter at the squirrels in the backyard? If so, think of toys that are pulled along the floor. Brown paper bags make inexpensive hiding places and by rotating safe toys throughout the week, your indoor kitty won’t turn into a bored couch potato who sleeps his or her life away. Avoid toys with small parts that can be swallowed, as well as string, ribbon and yarn. Swallowing these objects can be life-threatening for your cat. 6. Vaccinate. Just Don’t Over Vaccinate. Your veterinarian will assess your kitty’s lifestyle and discuss appropriate vaccinations. Most cities and towns require rabies vaccinations even for cats living indoors. Non-adjuvented rabies vaccines are recommended for cats. Vaccinations for upper respiratory disease and distemper are generally given to cats at three-year intervals, once they have had the kitten series of vaccinations and a booster one year afterwards. Feline leukemia vaccines are only given to cats whose lifestyles put them at risk for the disease. Vaccinations for feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) and feline infectious peritonitis (FIP) are not recommended. 7. Keep Your Vet in Your Kitty Circle of Friends.  It’s important to your cat’s health to stay current with veterinarian exams. Cat physicals help to identify problems early, when appropriate treatment often has the best chance of a successful outcome. Annual veterinary exams for cats under seven years of age and twice-annual exams for older cats are recommended. Your cat’s veterinarian will discuss diet, disease risks (such as heartworm) in your area and help you make decisions for appropriate care. Does your kitty hate traveling in the car? Many veterinary practices offer in-home care and there are veterinarians whose practices are strictly limited to house calls. With many options available, every cat can have the benefit of a thorough veterinary examination. 8. Vet the Internet. The world wide web allows anyone with access to a computer to search almost any topic imaginable. While that allows cat guardians the ability to help their cats, it’s important to realize that just because information is on the internet, that doesn’t make it correct or legitimate. Be wary of beginning at-home treatments (often described as unknown to the veterinary community or cure-alls for a number of problems). Even so-called “natural” treatments can have serious side effects. With alternative medicine booming in veterinary medicine, there’s almost certainly a veterinarian near you who is familiar with acupuncture, herbal remedies, nutraceuticals and other alternative treatments. Veterinary Partner (http://www.veterinarypartner.com) is an excellent website for accurate, up-to-the-minute cat care. 9. Green Is More Than Fashionable. Many of us are trying to incorporate “green living” into our homes and lifestyles. It’s important to your cat’s health to keep your home clean and odor-free. For cats, a clean cat box that is free of wastes and odors is a top priority. Choosing the right litter is very important, as cats clean themselves often and ingest the litter into their system. Feline Pine is America’s best selling all natural litter—100% natural. It’s chemical free, and made from all natural pine, making it a safe, healthy choice for cats. 10. Enjoy Your Feline Friend. Our satisfaction with any relationship depends on the amount of time and effort we spend with the other individual. Our companion cats are no exception. The more we understand the cat or cats with whom we share our lives and respect them for the individuals they are—with their special endearing features, as well as their quirks—the better our relationship with them becomes. How fortunate each of us is to be able to truly “caress the tiger” in our own homes! During the upcoming year, I will write a cat health or news column every other month. Stop by the website often to check out special information on keeping your kitty healthy and happy. My best to each of you and those kitties you hold dear in the upcoming New Year! 2009-01-05T18:46:01+00:00 http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/life_with_your_new_adopted_feline/ http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/life_with_your_new_adopted_feline/#When:19:18:24Z If you have other cats in your home you need to test your new friend for FeLV or FIV if shelter hasn’t. FeLV and FIV are retroviruses that depress the immune system opening the door to secondary infections and diseases. (The most common contagious infection is upper-respiratory. The most common non contagious disease is cancer.) What to Expect After Bringing Home Your Cat or Kitten. There are lots of wonderful emotions new owners of adopted cats or kittens feel when they bring their new feline friends home. Remember that your new cat has been through multiple stressors in a short amount of time: They have lost their home (or been out on the streets), they have been in a shelter with many new people, animal scents and noises to which to acclimate and they are now in your loving care. With all these stressors, some cats develop signs of upper respiratory tract infection (URI). Think of this as a “common cold” of cats, with sneezing, eye and nasal discharge and sometimes coughing. It’s important to know that if your new cat comes down with these clinical signs and symptoms, that the shelter hasn’t provided you with a “sick cat.” The viruses that cause URI take time to develop, so your kitty could have appeared perfectly healthy at the shelter. Many shelters provide medical care for these type of illnesses either through their clinic, participating veterinary hospitals, or through your own veterinarian. Because untreated URI can be contagious to other cats in the home and result in chronic eye and nasal issues, these infections should be treated promptly. Introducing the New Member of the Family If you have another cat (or cats) in the home, it’s generally recommended that you place your new cat in a quiet location behind closed doors for 7 to 10 days. This little home (a spared bathroom is ideal) should have a cat box, cat food, water and toys. Cats don’t care for visual surprises and this visual separation allows the newcomer to get acquainted with the smells and noise of your household, while allowing the resident cats to “learn” about the newcomer by sniffing under the door, batting paws under the door, etc. While your kitty is being isolated, you and the family can spend quiet time with him or her in the small room. At the end of the isolation period, allow the newcomer to come out and meet the family—on his or her terms. Don’t carry the new cat around and put his face into the faces of the other cats. I tell my clients that when cats meet for the first time, it’s not like going to a cocktail party and “working the room.” Expect some hissing, some posturing and perhaps some chasing. Always give the new kitty plenty of space to hide. In due time, the resident cats will consider the newcomer to be part of the family. By doing introductions slowly, the cats may eventually bond, but if not, will at least tolerate each other in a peaceful manner. If you have a dog, always have the dog on a leash when the cat is introduced. Even if your new cat has had experience with dogs in his or her previous home, a new dog can be frightening. Don’t pick up your new kitty and place him or her near the dog where your canine friend will slobber and/or “mouth” the newcomer. It’s always a good idea for the first two weeks to completely separate the cat from the dog(s) in the home when you’re not present to control the meetings. Taking Your Cat to the Vet Most shelters require that the new cat or kitten be seen by a veterinarian within a specified amount of time after the adoption. If you have other cats in your home you need to test your new friend for FeLV or FIV if shelter hasn’t. FeLV and FIV are retroviruses that depress the immune system opening the door to secondary infections and diseases. (The most common contagious infection is upper-respiratory. The most common non contagious disease is cancer.) While it’s true that FeLV takes prolonged saliva contact and that FIV is spread through bite wounds, you don’t want to be in the heartbreaking situation of having an undiagnosed FeLV or FIV cat infect one of the other cats in the home. So, be safe (rather than sorry) and make sure your new kitty has been tested and that the results of the tests have been explained to you. Your first trip to the veterinarian with your new cat will involve a review of the vaccination and deworming records, with recommendations for further treatments. After a complete examination, your veterinarian will address behavior issues, health issues and provide dietary advice. Feeding Your New Cat To avoid intestinal upset (diarrhea and vomiting), that often occurs when the diet is changed abruptly, it’s a good idea to ask what type of diet the cat was eating at the shelter and provide this diet for the first 7-10 days. During this time, you can slowly transition your new cat to the diet you are currently feeding your other cats. Training (Retraining) Your Cat Over the first few weeks and months, your new cat will be learning how you and your household operate. It’s a lot to take in. Encourage the use of the cat box by offering your new cat one more cat box than there are cats in the home, provide large and uncovered cat boxes, and scoop wastes at least once daily. If the shelter wasn’t using Feline Pine cat box filler, you can gradually transition the newcomer within the first few weeks. It’s often helpful to provide some of the cat box filler that that cat was using in the shelter, to ease the transition. What If The New Cat Doesn’t Work Out? I’ve worked in two “no-kill” shelters and two large “open door” shelters over the years and there are very few cat adoptions that don’t work out. At times, the cat adoption process may appear lengthier and more involved than the adoption of a child! Of course, this isn’t the case, but shelters want to make sure that the cat is going into a permanent home. So, checking with your landlord for their pet policy, having all human family members present for the interview and even checking with your veterinarian regarding the medical care of your current pets is just part of a process to ensure that every new home is a life-long home. With this extra attention to detail, few cat adoptions fail. If you run into problems with your cat or kitten, don’t hesitate to pick up the phone and talk to a shelter worker. Increasingly, shelters are employing specially trained personnel, including behaviorists, who can work with you and troubleshoot issues. What shelters don’t want is for new cat guardians to wait until a situation appears to be beyond assistance. If in doubt, give the shelter a call. Patience is key to making sure that your new cat is part of the family. Your new cat has been through a tough time, although with your kindness, he or she will learn that your house finally is “home.” 2008-12-01T19:18:24+00:00 http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/adopt_a_cat/ http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/adopt_a_cat/#When:21:43:00Z There’s no doubt that kittens are cute, cuddly and active, but don’t overlook adult cats who often make the best feline companions.Choosing the “purr-fect” cat or kitten from your local shelter can be a daunting experience.  However, with a little education and thought, you’ll be able to find that feline who makes your house complete. To help the cat adoption process go smoothly for you, your cat and your household, here are a few questions to ask yourself: Cat or Kitten? There’s no doubt that kittens are cute, cuddly and active, but don’t overlook adult cats who often make the best feline companions. Especially in shelter situations, adult cats are passed by all-too-frequently, as all eyes are on the kittens and their antics. Adult cats are generally over the “terrible twos” of kittenhood, so you won’t find them hanging off your drapes. Many would-be adopters are concerned that adult cats are set in their ways, but cats are highly adaptable, intelligent creatures and most cats with a bit of patience, are able to join a household and become “one of the family” in a short amount of time? A kitten may be too active for an adult resident cat, although young male cats often delight in having an energetic kitten for a playmate. Male or Female? The choice is really yours here. Some cat guardians believe that neutered male cats are more outgoing and are more apt to be “cuddlers,” than female cats. However, we all have known female cats who are bona fide lap cats, too. It’s imperative that the entire human family spends an adequate amount of time with any cat that you are considering for adoption. Most shelters offer small, quiet “get acquainted” rooms, where you can visit with your potential new feline family member. Should We Just Get One? Many single cats are surrendered to shelters and are absolutely able to become part of a new cat family or remain as a solo cat. However, pairs of adult cats are often brought to shelters, so if your heart and home are large enough, don’t overlook these bonded buddies. Because even the best of shelters are overwhelmingly stressful places for cats—particularly those who have enjoyed life in a household—most cats who come with a buddy won’t be separated. That’s a good policy that takes into account the emotional health of the cats. What Questions Should We Ask About Our New Cat? Many shelters now provide a “Purr-sonality Profile” of cats who are available for adoption.  Stray cats, of course, don’t often come with a “resume,” but most of the previously owned ones will. You should ask why the cat was surrendered to the shelter, but remember that many cats find themselves in shelters through no fault of their own. Divorce may have forced a newly single Mom and children to give up their friend in a move to a “no pets” apartment, the cat may not have done well with the family’s large (and maybe playfully aggressive) dog. You should get a file regarding the medical treatments that have been done to your new companion, including dewormings, vaccinations, testing for feline leukemia (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency (FIV) viruses and surgical procedures. Most shelters offer free or reduced medical care for a short period after adoption, to cover such things as upper respiratory tract infections and minor illnesses. Still other shelters offer short-term “pet health insurance,” to cover even major expenses for new cats. Before your leave the shelter, be sure to know what your financial responsibilities are regarding your new cat. Shelters want each and every adoption to work for the cat and the family. Remember that shelter personnel are working to make every adoption for the life of the animal. There’s a lot more that goes into picking out the right cat at an animal shelter than merely looking at and falling for the heart-melting faces and outstretched paws of cats and kittens hoping to find humans to love. Listen to your heart, but ask the right questions for you and your family, and you will have a happy home with your new feline friend. 2008-10-30T21:43:00+00:00 http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/scratch_scratch_wheeze_sniffle_lick_is_your_cat_allergic/ http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/scratch_scratch_wheeze_sniffle_lick_is_your_cat_allergic/#When:14:33:00Z It is important to note that allergies develop over time.  Typically it’s repeated exposure to a substance that triggers an allergic response…Summertime finds many cat companions suffering from various allergies but our cats can also have allergies to many substances, including foods, pollens, molds and fleas. Clinical signs of allergies in cats can be different than those in other species (including dogs and humans), so it’s important to learn to recognize these symptoms in order to keep your kitty comfortable year-round. It is important to note that allergies develop over time.  Typically it’s repeated exposure to a substance that triggers an allergic response from the immune system.  We’ll talk about allergy testing and treatments a bit later in this column. Food Allergies Cats with food allergies typically have waxy, itchy ears (often confused with an ear mite infestation) and also are itchy (pruritic) over the face, ears, neck and upper third of the body.  Gastrointestinal signs, including vomiting and diarrhea, also can be seen.  An individual cat can be allergic to any food or combination of foods.  Some of the more allergenic foods for cats include:  Beef, lamb, seafood/fish, corn, soy, milk and wheat gluten.  Cats with signs of otitis (ear infection or inflammation) should have a few simple tests performed, including the following: • An examination for ear mites (a small amount of ear debris is placed under the microscope and the slide is examined for the presence of adult mites, as well as their eggs; many times ear mites can be seen with the use of an otoscope by the veterinarian) • Ear cytology (another specimen of ear debris is stained and checked for the presence of yeast, white blood cells and bacteria) • Skin scrapings (to check for mites) and a flea combing (to find fleas or flea “dirt”). Depending on the extent of the skin disease, your kitty’s veterinarian may choose to perform a test to check for ringworm (dermatophytosis) or even skin biopsies. If food allergies are suspected, a diet trial is generally recommended.  This involves feeding a food with a protein source and a carbohydrate that your cat has not eaten previously.  This often can be a challenge, since many cats eat a variety of foods and brands.  Generally, rabbit, venison or duck-based diets are used with the addition of green peas, barley or millet.  There are several prescription diets that are available for use and the selected hypoallergenic one is fed exclusively (no treats or table food) for at least six weeks, while the appearance of the skin is monitored.  Most cats with food allergies respond well to these hypoallergenic diets and are maintained on them. It’s important to know that cats generally do not get “ear infections” as commonly as dogs do.  If your kitty has a history of ear infections, consider discussing with your veterinarian the possibility of food allergies, as well as the presence of polyps (seen in younger cats) or cancer of the ear canal (typically seen in older cats). Feline Asthma In a previous Vet Chat, I wrote about feline asthma as an allergic disease of the small airways.  Last month, we learned that asthma in cats can be caused by heartworm disease as well.  If your kitty had been coughing and was diagnosed with asthma, in addition to proper medications (generally a steroid inhaler and a bronchodilator), environmental control can be an important part of disease management.  Using air filters, changing furnace filters, changing pillows (to reduce dust mites), avoiding indoor cigarette smoking and the use of candles and incense and keeping the home as dust-free as possible (including using a dust-free cat box filler, like Feline Pine) are all changes that can positively impact asthma management in cats. Inhalant Allergies Like their human companions, cats can be allergic to pollens, molds, grasses, weeds and indoor air contaminants.  Cats with inhalant allergies (“atopy”) often lick the insides of their forelimbs.  Some cats also over-groom the outsides of their front limbs as well.  Occasionally, cats with allergies can have watery eyes and a clear discharge from their nostrils (conjunctivitis and rhinitis), but these are uncommon signs.  Most cases of conjunctivitis and rhinitis are due to upper respiratory tract infections. Allergies tend to start with one season (summer, for example, if the kitty is allergic to outdoor allergens or winter, when the heat comes on).  Allergies can stay confined to one season or may worsen with time, so that allergies become multi-seasonal. For some cats, anti-histamines can provide relief.  However, anti-histamine usage in cats is often trial-and-error and there is not one reliable anti-histamine that works for all allergic cats.  As always, no medication, including anti-histamines, should be used in cats without the direction of the kitty’s veterinarian.  Some cats require a short course of a glucocorticoid (steroid), in addition to the anti-histamine, for appropriate relief. Cats presented for possible allergies should have a minimum dermatology work-up by the veterinarian that includes skin scrapings and cytology (to rule out mites), flea combing and a ringworm (DTM) test.  If your kitty has access to the outdoors or you have a dog in the home that spends time outside, your veterinarian may recommend application of a flea control product to rule out fleas as a cause of the clinical signs.  Fleabite dermatitis can be particularly severe and the saliva from only one flea can cause intense itching and misery in affected cats. Allergy Testing Cats who do not respond to symptomatic care or those with allergic signs that span multiple seasons are candidates for allergy testing.  Most veterinarians offer a simple blood test that can test for many allergens that are specific to the geographic area in which the kitty lives.  This serum testing is NOT reliable for the diagnosis of food allergies, however.  The allergy test results are sent to the veterinarian and can be used to develop hyposensitization injections that clients can give at home.  While many cats do respond to the allergy injections, it may take a year or more to see improvement.  Lab requirements vary as to whether the kitty must not have received anti-histamines or steroids for a period of time prior to the testing. The “gold standard” for allergy testing is the intra-dermal skin test (IDST)offered by veterinary dermatologists.  For this test, the kitty is shaved along one of his or her sides and very small doses of various allergens are injected under the skin.  After a short time period, the areas are examined for swelling and are graded.  Those areas with the largest amount of swelling generally indicate substances to which the patient is allergic.  Hyposensitization injections then can be developed from this information.  Generally, cats who are presented for IDST must not have received glucocorticoids (steroids) or anti-histamines for several (six) weeks prior to the testing. “Rodent Ulcers” Some cats develop large, red lesions on their lips, down the backs of their legs and on their abdomens.  The medical terms for these lesions are eosinophilic granulomas or plaques.  They are often called “rodent ulcers” since in the past they were erroneously thought to occur when cats fought with mice and rats.  These lesions, which can be very disconcerting to the cat companion, generally do not cause problems and are more of an aesthetic problem for the human, rather than an issue for the cat. These lesions are hypersensitivity reactions and contain large numbers of eosinophils, normal white blood cells that are seen with hypersensitivity and allergic problems. Although steroids often provide relief, the use of repository steroids (long-lasting injections) should be avoided.  Cats who have severe eosinophilic plaques or granulomas often can be treated successfully with cyclosporine.  Doxycycline is an antibiotic with anti-inflammatory effects that also can be used for these lesions.  Biopsies of the lesions may be necessary to ensure that the masses are benign and not cancerous. Allergies to plastic bowls may be responsible for some of these lesions located on the lips of cats.  Using glass or ceramic dishes and thoroughly washing them after each use may reduce the incidence of “rodent ulcers” on the lips of cats. 2008-07-24T14:33:00+00:00 http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/ready_set_and_go_traveling_tips_for_cats/ http://www.felinepine.com/vetchat/ready_set_and_go_traveling_tips_for_cats/#When:12:26:00Z ...planning for your absence and making sure that you’ve made the best decision for care for your cat will allow you to enjoy your time away with peace of mind.Most cats prefer a windowsill seat or a place on a comfortable chair (or bed) from which to watch the world go by, but there are times when our cats need to “hit the road”, so to speak.  Veterinary visits, moves to a new home and even relocation with their human companions to another country all require cats to leave their tried-and-true surroundings.  Making the trip as comfortable and as stress-free as possible (for the cat, as well the human) takes a bit of planning and attention to a few details. While most cats never seem to have that joy for the open road that dogs do, traveling for most kitties can be done without the trip becoming a noisy, stressful event.  It’s true that there is the rare cat who seemingly enjoys car rides; (there are pictures of cats who regularly accompany their long-distance truck driving humans or travel in RV’s with their retired companions) but for most cats, venturing outdoors and getting into a car and/or plane isn’t their favorite activity. Regardless of whether the trip is a few minutes to the nearest veterinarian or a cross-country relocation, it’s important to have a sturdy, reliable carrier that closes completely with sides and door locked.  Soft, lined bags are increasingly popular for cats who travel (and are very helpful for use on an airplane), but even those need zippers that can be closed securely.  A soft, thick towel or rug will provide additional comfort for the feline traveler. Every cat should wear two forms of identification:  An implanted microchip (typically placed under the skin of kittens and cats who are acquired from shelters; these can also be implanted by the veterinarian at the time of ovariohysterectomy (spay) or castration (neuter), or as part of an outpatient visit. Microchips have revolutionized the manner in which lost companion animals can be reunited with their human guardians.  Most shelters, veterinary offices and even municipal animal control agencies are able to read these implanted microchips with sensors, identifying the cat or kitten and beginning the process of returning them to their proper homes. The second form of identification is an identification tag with the cat and family name, address and telephone number that is attached to a “break away” collar.  These collars have elastic bands that will allow the collar to break apart, should the kitty get caught on an object.  They prevent the heart-breaking situation of a cat hanging his or herself on a fence, post or other similar object.  Consider having a cell phone number imprinted on the identification tag, so that you can be contacted even if you are not at home. For most cat guardians, car travel with a cat almost always involves the kitty engaging in some mournful moaning or calling.  Sometimes our cats vomit during car rides or defecate and/or urinate en route.  Motion sickness and overall anxiety are the causes for most of these reactions in traveling cats.  Some cats can be acclimated to car travel by taking increasingly longer trips.  Initially, these ‘training” trips should be fairly short, even starting with a car ride down the driveway and back.  However, some cats do benefit from mild tranquilization.  As always, using human medications not prescribed by a veterinarian, getting doses in cyberspace, etc., is unsafe and can’t be recommended.  Increasingly, veterinarians are able to provide safe medications that help “take the edge off” cats that need to travel.  By talking to the veterinarian prior to a trip, it’s often possible to give a test dose of a prescribed medication, so that the effects can be observed and changes made, as necessary.  We’ll discuss some of the disadvantages of sedation for traveling cats later in this column. There are some natural anti-anxiety preparations that also can be used for travel.  L-threanine is an amino acid that has calming abilities and is available in a liquid from a large veterinary nutraceutical supplier through veterinarians.  I do not recommend alcohol-containing compounds or essential oils, which can be harmful to cats.  Typically, these compounds are not helpful if given right before travel and are best administered over several days or weeks, in order to achieve acceptable results. Cats should not be fed right before travel.  In most normal cats, the stomach empties within four hours of feeding and by not feeding them right before travel, stomach upset and vomiting can be avoided.  Water should be offered up to the time that the kitty is placed in the carrier. Longer car trips take a bit more planning.  It’s advisable to contact hotels and motels ahead of time and identify yourself as traveling with a companion animal.  While most hotels allow cats in rooms at no charge, some chains do have a pet surcharge.  Unfortunately, most of these surcharges have resulted from human guardians not being good stewards of their cats and causing damage to hotel facilities.  It behooves everyone who travels with a companion animal to be responsible, clean, quiet and respectful of hotel property and other guests. If you are planning to travel in a car for one or more days with your cat, here is a short list of things to bring along: (1.) Veterinary records and medications.  The records should be more than a list of charges for office visits and procedures.  You need to bring proof of vaccinations your kitty has received, as well as doctor’s notes of physical exam findings and laboratory tests/procedures.  These records can be extremely helpful if you need to visit a veterinarian while on your trip and can save time that is often involved in getting records from a practice located in another city.  Keep any medications that you are giving your cat in a safe, easy-to-remember place.  Ideally, your cat’s veterinarian should perform a thorough examination prior to the trip.  This is especially advisable if travel will take place over multiple days. (2.) Familiar foods and water from home.  Bring sufficient foods, so that you’re not forced to purchase unfamiliar brands and flavors.  Offering familiar foods also reduces stress for the kitty and will help avoid stomach upset.  Because water taste and composition varies across the country, filling a few small bottles with water from home also is an excellent idea. (3.) Cat box filler and disposable cat boxes.  Rather than bring a large, plastic cat box on the trip, consider purchasing the very convenient disposable (and biodegradable) cat boxes that are available at most large pet supermarkets.  These can be used for one day, discarded, and a new one used the next night. (4.) Pheromone spray.  This “feel good” spray mimics the facial marking chemical that cats use to rub on their favorite people and household objects.  This spray can be purchased from veterinarians, as well as on-line, and can make travel much less of an anxiety-producing activity for cats. Once in the hotel room, it’s advisable to keep the kitty confined to a closed bathroom with food, water and the cat box.  This confinement often makes travel less overwhelming and also ensures that the human won’t be frantically searching under beds, behind dressers and in closets for a “lost” feline.  Offer a small amount of food and water when you arrive and feed the kitty again just before bedtime.  Oftentimes cats will eat less while traveling than they normally do, but your kitty should eat something each day he or she travels. While en route, do not allow the cat to leave the carrier and wander around the car.  Cats have a penchant for crawling under the accelerator and brake pedals and can leap onto the dashboard, with possibly disastrous consequences.  Adjust the car temperature so that the kitty appears comfortable.  Stressed (as well as overheated) cats will often pant.  Use common sense and do not allow cats to sit in closed cars—especially in hot weather, even with the windows opened—for any length of time. Airline travel has more restrictions than does car travel and generally requires even more advance planning.  If you are planning to travel by plane with your cat, make your cat’s reservation as soon as possible.  Some airlines will not accommodate companion animals at all and others have a limit on the number of companion animals (typically limited to small dogs and cats) that can be in the cabin.  Charges for traveling with your cat will vary, depending upon the airline. Most veterinarians do not recommend that cats travel in the cargo hold of a plane.  Temperature regulation of this section is often not standardized.  Cats travel best in an airline-approved carrier (generally a short rigid carrier, or one of the soft bags) that is placed under the seat.  Most cats adjust well to travel by plane and are able to sleep, or rest quietly during the trip.  Sedatives should be avoided in companion animals who must travel in the cargo hold, as they can interfere with the ability to regulate important body functions, such as blood pressure. If you plan to travel by plane with your cat, you will need a health certificate signed by a veterinarian accredited by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) who has examined your kitty no sooner than 10 days before travel.  The certificate will include the date, type of manufacturer of the last rabies vaccine administered and will state that there is no evidence of infectious disease.  The traveler needs to carry a copy of the health certificate at all times, as airline and airport personnel will ask to see the document.  Cats traveling without health certificates can be barred from aircraft. International travel of cats requires additional regulations and documentation.  Most foreign countries require not only proof of rabies vaccinations, but also acceptable rabies titers, which must be drawn at specific times in the pre-travel period.  Quarantine periods (which vary in length) once at the foreign destination can be required as well.  If international travel is in your kitty’s future, working with the embassy staff of the destination country (most have an officer who is experienced in travel requirements for cats and dogs) located and closely reviewing the requirements with your veterinarian will ensure that your kitty arrives safely and promptly with you with no snags en route. But what if you have decided to travel and leave the kitty at home?  Pet sitters are generally preferred to out-of-home boarding kennels, as most cats do best remaining in their familiar surroundings.  Since pet sitters can book up well in advance of peak vacation and travel periods, it’s advisable to contact these individuals and companies well before the need arises.  You should interview several pet sitters (ask for recommendations from your veterinarian; oftentimes veterinary technicians and assistants will be happy to pet sit for the cats of clients) and observe how each sitter interacts with your cat before arranging for in-home care.  Generally these services also give the home a “lived in” look while you are away and will often bring in the mail, open and close drapes, and make sure lamp timers are working. For most cats who do not need to be medicated, a daily visit from the pet sitter can work well.  However, some cats enjoy twice-daily visits from the pet sitter and twice-daily visits generally allow the cats to receive fresh feedings of canned food.  Your chosen pet sitter will typically require information on the kitty’s health, the name and phone number of the veterinarian and will often ask for a credit card number that can be used in the event that the cat is in need of emergency medical treatment.  It is not reasonable for the cat guardian to expect the pet sitter to pay for these expenses out of his or her pocket and await reimbursement. If the cat must be boarded, visit the exact location where your kitty will be kept.  Some boarding facilities and veterinarians offer “kitty condos” that provide perches and room for exercise, others use large cages that can be made comfy and quiet.  As you tour the facility, ask yourself these questions: Is the cat boarding area quiet and free of barking dogs?  Are the cats seemingly comfortable and at ease, or are they huddled in the backs of the cages?  Is there a strong odor of urine or feces and/or an overwhelming odor of bleach or other cleaner?  Are the cat boxes clean of waste?  Is there evidence that cat boarding is an important part of the facility’s offered services and does the staff generally seem to love cats?  Is there 24-hour care and if not, what are the staff hours (especially on weekends)?  How are illnesses handled in boarding cats and what are the policies regarding emergency care? Most boarding facilities require vaccines be up-to-date on entering cats.  Remember that the vaccinations for upper respiratory tract illnesses only lessen clinical signs and often times the stress of boarding can trigger an episode of upper respiratory tract disease in a stressed cat. In some cases, a trusted adult neighbor can be relied upon to care for your cat in your absence.  However, your neighbor should be able and willing to visit your cat at least once daily, monitor and clean out the cat box, observe your kitty for signs of illness and be able to take your cat, if sick or injured, to a veterinarian for prompt treatment.  If at all possible, the neighbor you choose should be a “cat person” too. Whether you choose to travel with your kitty, or keep him or her at home while you are out of town, planning for your absence and making sure that you’ve made the best decision for care for your cat will allow you to enjoy your time away with peace of mind. 2008-07-14T12:26:00+00:00