Vet Reflections

A Bite and Torn Pants

2012-01-25T21:19:00.000+08:00

Got these courtesy of a Siberian Husky patient today - punctured palm and torn pants. I don't mind the bite so much as I do the torn pants.*Sigh* I loved those pants. But kidding aside... if ever there was a reason for socialization and conditioning your dog for handling, well, this would be it.

Invest some time in actively getting your dog used to being handled. Both your dog and your vet will love you for it.

For information about FIRST AID for bites read http://vetreflections.blogspot.com/2011/03/common-rabies-and-puppy-bite-related.html

The Importance of Early Puppy Education

2012-01-22T00:52:00.001+08:00

Get Your Puppy An Early Education

Puppyhood is the best time to start your dog’s education – that means early training and early socialization. This period marks the peak of learning for dogs and is therefore described as the sensitive period of their behavioral development. During this age, and especially at about 8-12 weeks old, your puppy is like a sponge absorbing and processing all sorts of information which determines the kind of dog he is likely to become in adulthood. An example of this is how easy it is for young puppies to befriend different species of animals if they are exposed to them during this time. Dogs can become great friends with cats, birds, rabbits and all sorts of animals if they are introduced to these animals early on and allowed to regularly socialize with them. Socialization is also important for getting puppies used to being around different kinds of people: men, women, children, teenagers, people of various builds, height and weight, skin color, etc.

Some families who own puppies get lucky and unwittingly socialize their dog without putting any thought into it. In general, well-socialized puppies belong to big families, or families with homes that always have lots of visitors, or to owners that take their puppy on lots of outings. However, not all puppy owners are lucky enough to have such a perfect setup for socialization. For the puppy-owner who would rather not leave things to chance, Puppy Classes are a very proactive way to expose your young dog to a variety of people and experiences, thus setting him up to be a confident adult dog who is not easily frightened or overwhelmed by new places, people or experiences. This is what some trainers refer to as a dog having developed good “bounce-back”, that is, the dog easily recovers from the initial feelings of uncertainty when faced with novel situations.

You want a dog that is confident and has good “bounce-back” because otherwise your dog could become shy, fearful and even aggressive – this can be dangerous for the people that he is around and that need to handle him on a regular basis. Take for instance your regular visit to the vet’s office: a dog that has no confidence for being outdoors or leaving the house will find even a routine check-up to be frightening, which makes the experience stressful for the owner, the dog and even the vet. With just some simple conditioning and training in puppyhood involving lots of treats when being handled and many positive experiences with your vet, you can set your dog up to accept and even love veterinary examinations, eliminating his and your stress for all future veterinary visits.

Another thing to teach your puppy early on is bite inhibition. I have written a more detailed article on the subject of puppy bites which can be found HERE. Basically, you want your puppy to develop a soft mouth – that means that your puppy should learn about regulating his bite force. This is a better thing to teach than simply forbidding or punishing a puppy for nipping. A dog who develops a regulated bite is less likely to inflict serious injury on someone in the event that he does bite out of fear or on instinct to defend himself. This is an especially important lesson for dogs that are around children a lot, because kids move and play with dogs in unpredictable ways and may unintentionally hurt and startle a dog into biting.

Lastly, your puppy needs to learn about where to poop and pee. House soiling is one thing that a lot of owners complain to me about. The odd thing about a lot of Filipino dog owners is that they actually prefer for their dog to do their business in their crates or cages, instead of in a designated spot in the garden or yard, and they wonder why their dog will just hold it while he is inside his place of confinement. But the thing is dogs will on instinct NOT soil where they sleep. Dogs that soil their crates have been forced to do so because they couldn't hold it any longer. Over time crate-soiling becomes a habit. You see this a lot in puppies who have been confined in petshops for very long periods of time. These are often the puppies that can be difficult to potty train because they have lost the aversion for soiling their living areas. Before your puppy gets into the habit of having accidents in his crate and around your home, it is best to give him lots of opportunities during the day to visit his designated potty spot and reward him with treats and praise when he does it in the proper place. Over time, your puppy will develop greater and greater bladder and bowel control so that you'll only have to take him out for his potty business about three times in a day.

To summarize, Puppy Education is IMPORTANT. If you want an awesome dog - a dog that is confident, behaviorally stable or balanced and trustworthy around family members and around your friends, then give him a solid foundation for his learning and behavioral development by starting his education and training early in life before bad behaviors become habits that will be very hard to break.

For more tips on these and other topics about puppy-raising, early socialization and early training you are invited to join Pet Centrics Puppy Classes. Click HERE for more information and current schedules.

Pet Centrics Puppy Class (Feb. 4 & 11, 2012) - OPEN for Registration

2012-01-20T17:12:00.000+08:00

PUPPY CLASS: For Early Training & Socialization

For Puppy's Early Education

Attending Puppy Class with your puppy enhances the bond between owner and pet and makes early puppy training an enjoyable, shared experience for both of you. In Puppy Class, you will be taught about how your puppy thinks, how to communicate with your puppy, how to teach your puppy your house rules, and how to prevent and/or manage common puppy behavior problems such as house-soiling, nipping, chewing and jumping up.

For Socialization

Regular visits to the veterinarian are a must for safeguarding your puppy's physical health and preventing him/her from getting sick. But ever thought about how to prevent your puppy's social retardation? Socialization sets your puppy up to become a confident and trustworthy companion around family and friends, and prevents him/her from becoming overly shy, fearful or even aggressive. Puppy Class also exposes your puppy to handling experiences thereby reducing the stress of future life experiences such as vet and groomer visits, alone time, meeting new people and dogs, or visiting new places.

For Puppy Fun!

Puppies have lots of energy that without an outlet can leave your house and belongings in complete chaos. In Puppy Class, your puppy will burn off loads of puppy energy. You will also learn how to provide your puppy with different kinds of physical and mental exercises at home. In other words, expect lots of Puppy fun and games!

For more information about the importance of your puppy's early education CLICK HERE.

Come and Join Pet Centrics Puppy Class! Visit www.petcentrics.ph for more information.

Who can join Puppy Class?
Puppy class is open to puppies approximately 3 months old and with updated vaccinations.
Each puppy may be accompanied by the owner and 2 other people. Education about your pet is for everybody, therefore household helpers (such as yayas, boys, maids, drivers etc.) are also encouraged to attend class.

What else will you learn?

Aside from learning about important puppy-raising topics such as house training, chewtoy training and bite inhibition; and how to prevent and manage other common behavior problems, Puppy Class will also tackle health topics such as the proper vaccinations, nutrition, exercise and first aid for your puppy.

What will your puppy learn?

Your puppy will have lots of fun while learning to socialize with other puppies. He/she will also be exposed to handling and gentling experiences to help him/her gain confidence and get used to situations which the puppy is likely to encounter in the world at large. Puppy Class provides a great foundation for future training and lessons in basic obedience because it develops your puppy's learning skills during the peak of his development.

Come and Join Pet Centrics Puppy Class! Visit www.petcentrics.ph for more information

PET CENTRICS: 2-session Puppy Class, Feb. 4 & 11

2012-01-15T23:19:00.000+08:00

Great news! First Pet Centrics Puppy Class of the year is set to start in February!

Reserve a slot by visiting http://www.petcentrics.ph/Feb2012puppyclassinfo.html

Please feel free to pass this information along to any puppy-owning friends. :)

2011-12-30T09:27:00.000+08:00

I am hoping that as responsible pet owners, all of us have made the decision to not use or at least to reduce the use of firecrackers to welcome the New Year. Bear in mind, noises are perceived by dogs with about four times greater intensity compared to humans! Because it is unlikely that there won't be a single firecracker going off within range of your pet's hearing this New Year's Eve... here are a few tips to get your pets safely through the New Year's celebration:

Lots of play and exercise before the fireworks get started – really let them burn off that energy, it helps them to stay calm.
Make sure they all get a chance to eat and go potty hours before they have to deal with the noise.
If your dog (or cat) has an indestructible, hollow chewtoy like a Kong that he loves to chew on, prepare these in advance loaded with some great stuffing – this provides them with a welcome distraction throughout the noise. But don't force your pet to play or engage the toy if he doesn't want to. Just leave it near him in his hiding spot.
Give your pet a spot in the house where he can curl up in – if your dog chooses to hide, just leave him there in peace, and don't try to coax him out. If your dog hides or cowers, be neutral, don't amplify his anxiety by coddling him. Just go about your New Year's Eve preparations and celebrations as if nothing is the matter. Once in a while, but without speaking to him, look in on your pet just to make sure he's still in his hiding spot.
Make sure your pets will be secure inside the house – panicked animals may try to flee or escape and could get lost.
If your pets have ID tags, make sure they are wearing them so that in case they do get lost, any person finding them can contact you or bring them home safely.
Also remember to take a good photo of your pet so you have something to put up in case you need to make a "Lost" or "Missing" poster.
After the fireworks, keep a close eye on your pet for the next few days to see if the noise stress had any effects on his health. If in the next 24 hours, your dog does not eat, pee or poop following his normal routines; if he has difficulty in breathing or seems exercise intolerant or if there is anything else seemingly off about your pet consider having him checked up by a veterinarian.
Regularly change any exposed drinking water with fresh water – with all the smoke from New Year's Eve, water that is left out may not be safe to drink after a few hours.
Make sure to clean up any firecracker remnants and other debris outside your house that the dog might play with or ingest when you let him outside.

Have a Safe and Happy New Year, Everybody!

Doc Marose

Spay and Neuter: Excuses Debunked

2011-06-15T14:28:00.000+08:00

(In support of the UPVTH Spay and Neuter Campaign on June 25, 2011 I'm reposting this entry from June 2010.)

When discussing spaying or neutering with a client I often find that the pet owner either has absolutely no idea what I'm talking about, or that the he is averse to the idea of subjecting his dog (or cat) to what seems to him is an unwarranted surgical procedure.

For those that do not know what spaying or neutering means here are the simple definitions:

Spaying is the surgical removal of the reproductive organs of a female pet – this means that the uterus and the ovaries are taken out and that the female will no longer be able to get pregnant and produce offspring.
Neutering, on the other hand, is the surgical removal of the testes of a male pet– to stop the production of sperm by that animal rendering it incapable of impregnating a female.

Why do this to a pet?

Spaying and neutering – also referred to as sterilization or having your pet fixed - are humane measures taken to control animal populations by preventing animals from “accidentally” getting pregnant and giving birth. Accidental or unplanned pregnancies of pets give rise to unwanted puppies or kittens (or offspring of other companion animal species) which end up as unfortunate strays that roam the streets when they are unable to find good homes.

Upon finding out what spaying or neutering are all about, many Filipino pet owners will give one of many common excuses for why they don't let their pet get sterilized. Let's take a look at these excuses – some applicable to cats, some to dogs, and some more applicable to one gender than the other - and see if we can't debunk them one by one:

Excuse #1: “It's dangerous for my pet to get operated on.”

Spaying and neutering are procedures that are routinely done by veterinarians on dogs and cats (and other companion animals). Rarely do complications arise after a spay or neuter. Certainly no surgery is ever 100% risk free, but a competent veterinary surgeon will take all measures to ensure that the risks are reduced to a minimum. Expect that before your veterinarian even considers surgery she may require pre-operative blood tests and a complete physical examination. Also expect that the surgery will take place in a clean operating room and using clean surgical instruments and aseptic techniques. After the surgery, your vet may prescribe antibiotics and provide instructions for wound cleaning and post-operative care. Will your pet feel pain? With proper anesthesia your pet should feel very little to no pain as the surgery is taking place. Following surgery, discomfort is to be expected. Pain killers are not always prescribed because pain in itself is a useful restraint to keep the pet from moving about too much while in recovery. However, if you feel your pet is in too much pain and think that he would benefit from pain killer medication consult your veterinarian.

Excuse #2: “My pet won't be the same after he/she gets neutered/spayed.”

It is true that sterilization may have some effects on behavior. In fact, spaying and neutering are often recommended by vets as a solution for behavior problems such as aggression and territorial urine marking. But in general, as a result of reduced hormonal surges following sterilization your pet will likely become calmer, less territorial and consequently more manageable, especially if you couple the sterilization procedure with good training.

Excuse #3: “But puppies would be so cute to have around!”

Yes, puppies (and kittens for that matter) are cute and lovely to cuddle. But they also eat, pee and poop in growing amounts as they grow older. Puppies and kittens don't stay puppies and kittens forever. Despite our promises to love them for the entirety of their lives, very few of us actually have the resources to support more than the one pet that we originally planned for. Be fair to your pet and to yourself and do not add to your family of canine or feline companions unless you have the time and resources to do so, and even then I would urge you to choose adoption over reproduction as there are already so many strays and shelter animals that are searching for a home.

Excuse #4: “My dog is so awesome, it would be a shame not to let her pass her genes down to her puppies. I want something to remember her by.”

An awesome dog does not guarantee awesome puppies. I have heard it countless times before: dog owners complaining that their dog's offspring are nothing like her. In my opinion, the “awesomeness” of your dog is defined by the great relationship you have with her and that is something genetics plays no part in. Furthermore, I believe that this need to have our dogs provide us with offspring is more a reflection of our fear of losing our beloved pet sooner than we are ready to let go. Value your pet for her uniqueness and her unique relationship with you and remember her by making as many great memories as you can with her. Your next dog will be just as awesome in its own way if you are as devoted to her as you are to the one you have now.

Excuse #5: “I don't want to deprive my pet of the pleasures of having sex!”

Believe it or not, I have heard this excuse from owners, many times in fact. A common joke we vets make to owners who give us this excuse is that your dog (especially male dogs) can still engage in these carnal pleasures with the added bonus of being free of commitments after the act. The sexual drive of many neutered male dogs still remains intact even after they have their testes removed. And in general, machismo does not suffer from the loss as many male owners of male dogs are inclined to think. Really all you are taking away are the sperm!

Excuse #6: “It costs too much.”

Spaying and neutering are preventive measures that will spare you from future vet bills accumulating when your dog or cat gets sick because of a disease associated with its reproductive organs. Therefore, it is a worthwhile investment, especially considering that it could lengthen and improve the quality of life of your dog. Many good veterinary clinics in the Philippines do spays and neuters at reasonable costs, some even have free spay-and-neuter days that many pet owners can take advantage of.

Excuse #7: “She never leaves the house anyway.”

Regardless of whether or not your dog is the only dog in your household, and even if you can make guarantees that she will never mate, it is still better for your pet's health that she be sterilized. An un-mated female can in adulthood succumb to a disease called pyometra in which the uterus becomes infected as a result of hormonal imbalances in the dog. When I explain this to my clients who own female dogs that they do not intend to get mated, the client will often counter saying that in that case they will have her get pregnant at least once then just to circumvent the risk of pyometra. It is a humorous suggestion at best, because the risk of pyometra does not end with one pregnancy. And what about the puppies born from this pyometra-preventing pregnancy? You are better off having your dog spayed than letting her get pregnant just to keep her from getting sick.

In summary, most of the excuses that we vets hear regarding spaying and neutering are based on a lack of awareness, misinformation and client fears. But the fact is spaying and neutering are part of responsible pet ownership and should be one of the primary considerations when acquiring a companion animal. The procedures are routine and generally safe for pets if done by a qualified veterinary surgeon, and they are acceptable, humane ways to control dog and cat populations, which spares many puppies and kittens from becoming strays.

Be a responsible pet owner. Have your pet spayed or neutered. :)

The Caged Dog

2011-05-21T17:30:00.000+08:00

Life Behind Bars: Imagine yourself living in a cage, the dimensions of which don't allow for you to comfortably stand up to your full height, nor stretch out to your full length when lying down. The floor is made of hard plastic slats placed over rusted metal. You eat in this cage. Against your instincts to soil your sleeping place, you are forced to also defecate and urinate in this cage. Once in a while, somebody comes along and hoses you and the cage down so you at least don't have to worry about your crap piling up. Come rain or shine you stay in this cage. Occasionally, people pass by. You call out, wave and say “Hi!”, some answer back, but most keep moving on as if they don't even see you. You escalate your attempts to call their attention but still you don't get the reaction you want and still they walk by, leaving you unnoticed. Over months and years of this going on, you decide that everyone passing by your cage is evil, and they have all become the object of your anger and frustration. You've now taken to screaming hateful words at people every time you see them and find this provokes more varied and interesting reactions, and it at least gives you an occupation and a release of your pent up energy. On quiet days when there is no one around, you amuse yourself by banging your food bowl against the cage bars, biting your nails and pulling out the hairs on top of your head. And when that no longer does it for you, you turn to the one other thing in your cage that's left to interact with - your feces – well, now it's time to get creative!

As a veterinarian and dog trainer in the Philippines my biggest frustration has always been seeing this: The Caged Dog a.k.a The Tethered Dog, or the Unwalked Dog. The Caged Dog is one that spends the greater part of his life confined to a small cage, and is terribly under-exercised and under-socialized. At its worst, a Caged Dog is better off dead.

Owners of Caged Dogs can be described as one of the following:

a) Unwilling dog-owners or those that entered into pet-ownership without knowing what they were getting into. These are owners that suddenly found themselves stuck with a dog without knowing how to handle or care for one. While the dog was a puppy, all was well, until one day they found themselves with a grown dog that continued to act like a puppy by jumping up, play biting and doing all sorts of crazy behaviors that were simply too much for the owner. Not knowing of any solution or maybe even not caring enough to try and find a solution, the owner resorts to buying a cage and locking the dog up in it. Problem solved. For the owner at least.

b) Those that might be good dog-owners in theory but then turn out to be always too busy to spend time with their dogs. Similar to the first, those who never find time for their dog are those that did not plan dog-ownership through well enough either. And once again the dog must suffer for it.

c) Those whose idea of dog-ownership is to place a dog in a cage near the house so he can bark at strangers and act as a deterrent for would-be trespassers. Many dogs in the Philippines are kept not as companion animals but as “guard dogs” - mind you, not referring to trained protection dogs here. They are dogs that are kept to scare people and to bark at people, because the common idea is that a house with a dog is less likely to get burglarized.

Despite whatever bad or good intentions an owner may have in keeping a dog in a cage, a Caged Dog to great degrees lacks physical and mental stimulation, and much needed social contact. These dogs although technically alive and functioning, don't actually live a life at all. As I said before: at its worst, a Caged Dog is better off dead – he'll get there eventually, but you might as well not prolong his misery.

What's to be done? Simple. DON'T OWN A DOG! Filipinos get dogs for all of the wrong reasons: as status symbols; as “guard dogs” (as previously defined); because the puppy was cute; they saw it in a movie; young couples playing house with the dog playing the role of a baby, etc., etc. Occasionally, these people really make an effort at responsible dog-ownership and do get it right. Hurray for the dog that lives with them! Mostly, however, as I've seen countless of times, they lose interest, find that the expenses are not within their budget, find that that puppy they bought doesn't automatically grow up to become that awesome dog they saw in the movie, etc., etc. If I could convince more people not to enter into dog-ownership in the first place, I would consider myself a very effective veterinarian and trainer. I certainly try.

But if people cannot be convinced not to get a dog, then it should be demanded of them to get educated. Know what you are getting into and know if you actually have the means to stick with it for the long haul, which means the entire lifetime of the dog. Or if you are already adrift in that boat (with a dog in it), then it should be required that you change your routines to incorporate the dog in them. Happily, some dog-owners do make the attempt. I've met them and I applaud them. In my own small way I try to help however I can for them to be successful in their efforts by providing training and health care for their dogs and education for the people. But overall, the fact is that there is a long way to go in elevating the standards of pet-ownership in the Philippines.

Mostly I write this as an outlet for my own frustrations. Quite possibly the message will go unread by the hundreds of “Caged Dog” owners that ought to be reading it and leave nothing changed for the better. I do my work one dog and owner at a time regardless. But if it happens that you who are reading this have a dog that is currently living in a cage or tied up in some corner of your home then I ask you to consider the ways you can improve your dog's life:

First, a change in mindset is in order. Filipinos have it too easy – we are allowed to stick our dogs in cages and forget about them. We are allowed to discard our duties as dog-owners and turn them over to the yayas and manongs (the household helpers). We are allowed to be neglectful and abusive and say “It's just a dog.” The sad thing is that it is acceptable, and many Filipinos don't even recognize themselves to be doing anything wrong or inhumane to the pets that they have. But it's never just a dog, just a cat or just a hamster. Never just an animal. It is life - sacred and beautiful, and we ought to recognize animals as such and treat them accordingly or else be lesser humans for doing them wrong.

Second – speaking here to the professionals - solutions should be made available. For those owners that are ready to get it right, Filipino pet care professionals must themselves be educated, be good examples and be ready to answer questions and help provide guidance to pet-owners where needed. We think it is only the affluent that can take good care of their dogs, but I know people of little means who make it work and have healthy, happy dogs. Also, there are many pet care professionals who offer quality service at reasonable costs, and owners need not always wait for the free vaccination drives and seminars, or expect substandard service for cheap prices.

Third, prepare to make some changes in your life. This is where many falter and give up – now realizing that time and effort are required, the cage always seems the easier option, especially because actually spending time with the dog, for some, requires making drastic changes to one's daily routine. Stick to your resolve to make things better. Get the family involved, plan things out, share responsibilities. Begin with giving 5-10 minutes of your time to your dog in a day. If possible, hand-feed his meals and get to know him – this in itself is a major improvement from what his life was before. (NOTE: Caged dogs are unbalanced and often frustrated dogs that need special attention from a trainer or behaviorist. Please consult a professional and be properly guided.)

Lastly... Learn, grow from and enjoy the experience of having a dog. This is not always about you spending for your pet's needs just to keep him happy. There is a reason we call them companion animals and man's best friend. If we allow them into our lives and let our bond with them reach its full potential, dogs can be our greatest friends even on our darkest days.

"We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals." ~Immanuel Kant

Documentary: Dogs Decoded

2011-03-24T11:31:00.001+08:00

An interesting documentary I discovered about dogs and our relationship with them. Definitely worth watching.

Here's the original description:

Dogs Decoded reveals the science behind the remarkable bond between humans and their dogs and investigates new discoveries in genetics that are illuminating the origin of dogs – with surprising implications for the evolution of human culture.
Other research is proving what dog lovers have suspected all along: Dogs have an uncanny ability to read and respond to human emotions.
Humans, in turn, respond to dogs with the same hormone responsible for bonding mothers to their babies.
How did this incredible relationship between humans and dogs come to be? And how can dogs, so closely related to fearsome wild wolves, behave so differently?

(If you are having trouble viewing the embedded video just click on the title and it should open a new window of the original post on dailymotion.com.)

Dogs Decoded (1/3) by xSilverPhinx

Dogs Decoded (2/3) by xSilverPhinx

Dogs Decoded (3/3) by xSilverPhinx

Of Dog Training, Responsible Owners & Healthy, Happy Dogs

2011-03-15T18:00:00.003+08:00

People who get new puppies seem never more excited as in the first few months of the new puppy entering into their lives. Unfortunately, the excitement fades all too quickly and the commitment to be a responsible pet owner is soon forgotten. Mostly, it's because the puppy turned into a menace and started acting like puppies ought to – the puppy plays rough, bites, chews on everything, cries when he wants something, pees and poops wherever, whenever he needs to go, and so on. A few months after I've completed the first series of puppy vaccinations for a certain puppy, I often hear that my client has now resorted to tethering or caging their pup – now a young dog - because of the behavior problems they are having with him.

In the Philippines, a dog with behavior problems rarely becomes a shelter dog, which - as you may know - is common in developed countries in Europe and in the US. In our case, it is more likely the owner will opt to keep the animal confined or tied up in some part of the house, which leads to neglect and then disease. This is probably the single most compelling reason for why animal behavior and training should be considered highly relevant to the practice of veterinary medicine.

But what does it mean to train a dog? The common image conjured up by the word “training” is that of a bomb sniffing dog or a protection dog like those we often see in malls and at the metro railway stations. And yes, these are highly trained working dogs. But even companion or family dogs need training to understand human rules and house manners: knowledge which dogs are not born with.

Training is to communicate with your dog. It not only enhances the relationship between dog and owner, and spares a lot of dogs from life in a cage or at the end of a tether, but it is also an important preventive measure against diseases resulting from neglect, abuse and even just a simple lack of awareness. Training addresses a dog's need for physical and mental stimulation, which is important for maintaining overall good health.

Vets don't often emphasize the relevance of training to a dog's health because commonly veterinarians are confronted with already severely disease-afflicted animals. But pet care professionals should not overlook dog training and owner education for its potential to prevent disease. It should be an integral part of any vet's prophylactic program to educate people as to the roles of a responsible dog owner, and to emphasize that responsible dog ownership does not end with puppy vaccinations and daily regular meals.

While we may call ourselves “owners” dogs are not simply possessions, they are lives that we are responsible for, not to be acquired on a whim nor discarded whenever their care becomes too difficult for us.

"He was sooo cute that I just had to get him!” are words that can eventually lead to a miserable, tortured life and a slow death for an adult dog. Think before acquiring a puppy or dog. It is after all a life long commitment that if one is willing to take on the responsibilities, can be fun and rewarding for both dog and owner.

Teaching Bite Inhibition

2011-03-09T18:00:00.002+08:00

Dogs can acquire the ability to bite softly if they are given plenty of feedback about bite strength during the first few months of life.

Puppies can and should play-bite continually in supervised social interactions with other puppies. Suppressing puppy biting too early means the puppy doesn't get repeated doses of feedback on his jaw strength. Allow at least some puppy biting to give the puppy information about his bite strength and to rehearse a soft mouth.

When a puppy bites down a little too hard, screech or yip as though it hurt much more than it actually did and call a time out, ceasing all interactions for a few seconds. Resume play after a minute or two. Be prepared to repeat this procedure over and over. If you are consistent your puppy will learn that if he bites too hard he will end up playing by himself.

Allowing a puppy to playbite may seem counterintuitive for most Filipino pet owners, especially those who still erroneously believe that puppies are born with rabies (read more on rabies and puppies here). But practicing bite inhibition with your puppy is one way to prevent a grown up dog from doing more serious damage in a moment of excited play or if ever the dog should act on reflex when surprised or frightened.

To add to your puppy's education, join in fun and structured puppy socialization and training available in Puppy Classes to help you bond with your puppy and help him/her grow up into a well-mannered adult dog. Visit www.petcentrics.ph for more information on available Puppy Classes.

Common Rabies and Puppy Bite-Related Questions

2011-03-05T08:00:00.013+08:00

The scenario is usually this - a puppy, playful as can be expected, nips an owner during play, hard enough that blood is drawn or a bruise is formed. Usually it is just a scratch, barely more than a welt, and sometimes not even bad enough to break the skin. I have seen paper cuts that are more severe. Panic follows. Fear of rabies infection sets in. Many times, Filipino pet owners come to me in a panicked state with the usual questions:

Q: What should I do as first aid for the bite?

A: 1. If a puppy bites or scratches you, immediately clean the wound with soap and running water.

2. Thoroughly scrub the wound for around 5 minutes.

3. After rinsing, apply povidone iodine OR 70% alcohol solution to the wound.

4. Consult a medical doctor or visit a bite clinic.

Q: Do you administer anti-rabies shots for people?

A: No, I'm a veterinarian, an animal doctor. I don't treat people nor carry vaccines for human use. The anti-rabies vaccines that I have are for animals and are given to animals to prevent them from contracting rabies from animals that are infected with the rabies virus.

Q: Do I need post-exposure rabies shots from a medical doctor?

A: That is a question that should be answered by a medical doctor. (However, I feel it must be mentioned here that there are some medical professionals who, in my opinion, are too quick to inject bitten or scratched owners with post-exposure rabies injections without asking questions about the circumstances surrounding the bite nor explaining anything about the rabies virus to their patients. More frustrating than hearing about the sometimes unnecessary cost that a pet owner incurs from availing of this treatment is that this then promotes ignorance in pet owners and creates an unwillingness of owners to interact with their pet because of these exaggerated fears.)

Q: Could you please inject our puppy with anti-rabies vaccine now, just in case our puppy bites us again?

A: I can inject the puppy with anti-rabies vaccine if it is healthy, if it is of proper age to be vaccinated (3 months and older), and if it hasn't had the antirabies shot already. The rabies vaccine does not cure rabies nor get rid of some inborn rabies toxin, as many Filipino pet owners mistakenly believe. The rabies vaccine protects a vaccinated dog from becoming infected if it ever is bitten by a rabid animal.

Q: Should I be worried? Am I going to get rabies from the puppy bite?

A: It is difficult to answer the question with one all-encompassing absolute answer, especially because there are so many factors to consider:

Why did the puppy bite?

Is the puppy healthy?

Has the puppy been vaccinated against rabies?

Does the puppy roam outside?

Has the puppy recently been bitten by another animal (a dog, a cat, a rat, etc.)

How severe is the wound? etc., etc.

A vet and medical doctor needs to know the answers to these questions because they provide important information about the seriousness of the bite wound and the risk of infection in the puppy and risk to the patient.

Q: Can you clip our puppy's teeth so we can prevent this from happening again?

A: No. This is a practice used in swine farms on newborn piglets. It is not done on puppies (or shouldn't be done on puppies). Puppies change teeth at around 5 months of age at which point the sharper teeth are replaced by the duller permanent set of teeth. You can prevent this from happening again by teaching your puppy bite inhibition and how to properly play and interact with people.

Q: Do you think our puppy could have rabies?

A: Puppies kept indoors and that have no interaction with other animals are unlikely to have contracted rabies, because rabies is generally contracted through bites from infected animals.

Q: Why does our puppy bite?

A: Puppy biting and nipping is normal. It should not surprise you that your puppy bites because the fact is puppies do not have hands with which to explore and interact with the world so they use their mouth and their teeth. However, you can teach your puppy to regulate the strength of its bite by teaching it bite inhibition, and play with your puppy using toys instead of just your hands so your puppy learns that these are the proper things to chew and nibble on.

Agility!

2011-02-21T16:18:00.002+08:00

Traveling with Tramp, Part 2: Transporting Your Pet from the USA to the Philippines

2011-01-20T10:29:00.045+08:00

Like me, you might be the type of person who likes to know what to expect in new situations such as transporting a pet via airplane. So here is a somewhat detailed account of Tramp's homeward bound trip - from Dallas, Texas USA to Manila, Philippines, including pictures of his travel papers and descriptions of the airport procedures, as well as some tips for traveling with a pet.

Read up on pet travel tips!

PREPARATIONS FOR THE FLIGHT:

With all the requirements prepared, the next step was to gather together everything I would need to check Tramp in at the airport, and what he might need on his more than 20 hour long flight from Texas to Manila.

As mentioned in the earlier part of this blog, together with Tramp's crate, I also purchased a travel kit which included the "Live Animal" stickers, another sticker label on which to write the owner information and feeding information, plus the split-type water and food dish attachment that clips on to the crate door.

Since I was still awaiting Tramp's ID and rabies tags to be mailed to me from the shelter in Houston, I decided to buy him a new ID tag, and had it engraved with his name and my information on it.

Laser engraving

The picture on the left (though somewhat blurry) shows the engraving process. Very cool! All I had to do was purchase the tag at a Petsmart in Dallas. Once paid for, I was given a code which I could use to activate an easy to use do-it-yourself laser-engraving machine. I typed in the info I wanted engraved on the two sides of the tag and within a matter of minutes the tags were done!

With the limited space provided for letters, I decided that the best information to put on the tag was Tramp's name on one side and then my name, home phone number, and my home country. on the other. Thus it reads:

MAROSE
MAGPILY

632-XXXXXXX

PHILIPPINES

Other items that I placed inside Tramp's crate were a blanket and an appropriately sized Kong. The blanket served the dual purpose of bed and absorbent material in case Tramp should have a potty accident during the flight. He is potty-trained but 20+ hours is a lot to ask of his tiny bladder so I expected the worst. The Kong was to keep him occupied and give him something to chew on in transit.

Tramp's crate with stickers and food dish attachment.

I also prepared a ziplock bag with some of Tramp's food and a small plastic water bottle, both of which I planned to tape onto the crate at check in and with the airline personnel's approval. I also waited until check in before I stuck on the stickers - but that's just because I wasn't sure if there was a particular way that the airline wanted them on there.

Keep all your pet travel papers organized.

I also prepared a colored folder in which to place all of Tramp's papers, that I could easily stuff into and pull out of my carry on backpack. What can I say, I like things organized. ;p

THE MORNING OF:

I woke up extra early to take Tramp for an extra long walk.Thankfully, it wasn't as cold as it usually was on previous December mornings in Texas. I made sure he did his potty and when we came back home I fed him a small amount of food and just enough water. That would be his last meal for the next 20+ hours.

When it was time to leave I had him go inside his crate, making sure the food dish was properly attached and that his blanket and Kong were in there with him.

AT THE AIRPORT:

Our flight was at 10a.m. so I asked to be dropped off at DFW airport at around 7a.m., at which time the Korean Air check-in counter would open. Checking an animal in may add about 30 minutes to an hour to your check-in, possibly longer if the airline staff attending you is unfamiliar with the procedure for checking in pets, so come as early as possible to alot for any delays.

Notice of indemnity

Excess baggage receipt

At the counter, I was asked to present the vaccination records and international health certificate and to fill out a declaration of indemnity - basically, it's a waiver of liability should anything happen to the pet during the journey. I was also asked to pay the extra baggage fee of 320.00USD. This fee is weight and size dependent so larger pets would cost more to transport. The airline agent then issued me a receipt for payment, and the baggage claim stickers. She then made a copy of the international health certificate and stuck the other copies onto the crate. When she was finished, I asked to attach my stickers and the packaged food and water for Tramp. She said it was ok but mentioned that the animal would not be fed during the flight by any of the on board personnel. And I said that was ok - mostly it was just for in case of emergency stopovers or whatever that might delay the flight.

Baggage claim stickers

Once we were done taping all the items onto the crate, I was instructed to take Tramp over to Oversized Baggage (I asked a porter to help me out with this). There, an airport security officer asked me to take Tramp out of his crate so he and his crate could be given a visual inspection since he wouldn't be going through any X-rays. I thought that the officer might tell me that the Kong and blanket couldn't be allowed to stay in with him (some airlines don't allow them for some reason) but he made no mention of the items and put them back in, then secured the crate with plastic ties so the door couldn't be pushed open by Tramp.

Then it was time to say our momentary goodbyes. As expected, Tramp started to bark once the officer carried him away in his crate, and I said a silent prayer that Tramp would calm down and be safe during his long flight home. Then I made my way through passenger security check and waited another hour until my flight was ready to board.

Unfortunately, my flight had already been booked long before I knew that I would be bringing a dog back with me from my trip. So I wasn't able to get us on a direct flight and Tramp had to suffer an additional 3 hours in transit.

A few more hours and we would be home in the Philippines. Hold on, Tramp, I thought. Just a few more hours to go.

ARRIVAL IN MANILA:

Finally, finally, we landed safely in Manila! Getting off the aircraft and going through passenger checks could not happen fast enough as I was so eager to finally claim my baggage and Tramp. Mostly I was worried about his bladder because I knew he would hold his pee throughout the entire trip.

At last, at the baggage carousels I looked around for airport staff and asked where I could pick up my dog. The person I spoke to said he would be coming out with the baggage. I was shocked. -Tramp would bounce around in his crate with all the rest of the baggage on the conveyor belt?? Thankfully, that person turned out to be mistaken and didn't know what he was talking about, he disappeared for a while saying he would check with Korean Air about the dog. I collected my other bags and a moment later the guy reappeared having collected Tramp from the Korean Air personnel.

Tramp was alright and excited to see me! I poured some water into his crate dish, but couldn't yet open the crate because of the plastic ties. After loading him onto a cart with my other baggage I rolled him over to another customs officer who was in charge of animal imports.

Receipt

Notice of quarantine

At this point, I still wasn't sure if I would have to leave Tramp at customs for a 30-day quarantine. I was asked for his papers (vaccination record, international health certificate and import permit) and asked to pay the 350.00PHP inspection fee and was issued a receipt. The customs person barely even looked at Tramp. Though he issued me a notice of quarantine, there was no actual mention of quarantine whatsoever. For my purposes - great! I wasn't keen on having Tramp be stuck at the airport.

After everything, we at last made it through customs and out of the airport. My brother was waiting to pick us up. As quickly as we could, we removed the plastic ties on Tramp's crate and found a grassy place in the parking lot where he could pee - it took him about 5 minutes - and that's only a slight exaggeration.

And then we were off and bound for home. :)

Tramp and me at Banfield Pet Hospital in Dallas

In no particular order, here are some pet travel tips that might make your travels with your pet easier and safer...

Pet travel tip #1: Read up as much as you can on pet travel tips found on the internet or pet store/clinic brochures.

Pet travel tip #2: Make sure your pet is wearing ID tags with your name and contact info. Have him/her microchipped if you can.

Pet travel tip #3: Place absorbent bedding to line the crate floor, in case of potty accidents.

Pet travel tip #4: If airport security will allow it, leave a chewtoy such as a Kong in the crate with your pet to occupy him during the flight.

Pet travel tip #5: Make sure your pet's crate is labeled with your name, contact info and destination address. Attach "Live Animal" stickers and a label with feeding information as well.

Pet travel tip #6: Prepare a ration of your pet's food in a sealed bag and some water in a plastic bottle. If the airline will allow, tape these onto the crate with the feeding instructions. In case of emergency stopovers or flight delays, your pet will have some food and water to last him for a while.

Pet travel tip #7: Keep all your pet travel papers organized and in a separate, easy to access folder in your carry-on luggage.

Pet travel tip #8: Thoroughly exercise your pet a few hours before the flight so he is sleeping for the most part of the journey. Make sure he gets to potty before he is placed in the crate. Feed and give water to your pet about an hour before check in at the airport. If possible, have your pet potty again somewhere in or around the airport..

Pet travel tip #9: Arrive for check in around 4 hours before boarding. Checking your pet will add about an hour to the process.

Pet travel tip #10: Carry your pet's leash in your carry-on bag with you. This way you can quickly put him on leash and have some way to control him and keep him out of trouble when you arrive at your destination.

Pet travel tip#11: Have scissors or nail cutters handy in your checked baggage so you can immediately remove the plastic ties on the crate once you've arrived at the destination and let your pet out.

Traveling with Tramp, Part 1: Transporting Your Pet from the USA to the Philippines

2011-01-19T20:25:00.004+08:00

This is based on my personal experience in transporting my adopted terrier mix Tramp from Dallas, Texas USA to Manila, Philippines via Korean Air in December of 2010.

Before anything, find out all the requirements:

Call the destination country (Philippines)

Ask for the requirements for importing a pet into the country

Call your airline (Korean Air)

Book your flight (direct flight is recommended when traveling with a pet)
Inform them that you intend to fly with your pet
Ask for all the requirements

Call the country of origin (USA)

Ask if there is anything they need on their end before you can transport an animal out of the country.

After getting all that information, here is the list of requirements I found I needed:

Philippines Customs & Korean Air Requirements (as of December 2010):

Vaccination records/certificate
International health certificate
IATA approved crate and crate dimensions
Import Permit from the Philippines Bureau of Animal Industries

And here's how I went about acquiring/accomplishing each requirement:

Vaccination records/certificate

Tramp's vaccination record

This should be accomplished at least a month before the intended travel date.

Tramp's vaccinations were already 2 months old by the time I was taking him to get his international health certificate. If your pet's vaccines are not updated get this done immediately.

IMPORTANT:

Once your pet's vaccinations have been updated, make sure that his vaccination record/certificate is updated as well and that it contains the vaccine lot numbers and manufacturers.

Detail of vaccination record

International health certificate

Scanned copy of health certificate

In the US this can be acquired from an accredited veterinarian. I had it done by a veterinarian at Banfield Pet Hospital at one of the Petsmart outlets in Texas. Call them first before going there to book an appointment. When you tell them that you need an international health certificate made for your pet, they may ask if you have already called the destination country's embassy about the requirements for import, and if you have all of your pet's necessary records, so be ready with that information.

Press hard while writing.

Don't forget to bring all of your pet's previous records with you to the clinic. Your vet will ask for those and might also require the contact information of your pet's previous vet in the US. Press down hard while filling out the certificate that they give you, you'll be making 6 copies.

When you're done, remember to ask for all your records back. The clinic that I went to forgot to give me mine back. Fortunately, I was able to have them fax me the papers that I needed before our departure.

Banfield Invoice

Exam Report

The physical exam and certificate cost a total of 101.95USD. It's quite possible that you could get better rates from a different vet clinic in the US so it doesn't hurt to ask around before booking an appointment. Since I wasn't familiar with the area I simply picked the one that was located nearest where Tramp and I were staying in Dallas.

Crate & crate dimensions - the dimensions are required by the airline for reserving a space for your pet (Height x Length x Width; weight without animal inside)

Obviously, you will need to contain your pet for transport. Even smaller pets that can be brought on board as carry-on luggage need a small crate that fits under the seat. Your pet's crate needs to be airline approved, so if purchasing a crate look for ones that say IATA approved or that follow these guidelines (as copied from the IATA Traveler's Pet Corner page )

Know your pet's crate's dimensions including Length, Width, Height and Weight with and without the pet actually in it. The airline will need this information when you call them to reserve a space for your pet in cargo. You could measure these yourself, ask the store where you purchased the crate from, or look it up on the crate's packaging or online if the manufacturer had a website.

Below is Tramp's crate that I also purchased from Petsmart. With it, I also bought a travel kit that contained the "Live Animal" stickers and the split-type water and food container that attaches to the crate door.

Tramp's crate. The travel kit containing the stickers and water and food dish attachment is purchased separately

Import Permit from the Bureau of Animal Industries

Approved import permit

This is the requirement of Philippine customs that they will ask for at the destination airport in Manila. You can apply for this over the internet by sending them the filled out pet import application form found here.

E-mail the filled out form to quarantine_bai@yahoo.com.

I was fortunate because they're reply to my application came back within just a few days, but a friend of mine who was transporting her pets home from Malaysia said that she had to send them a follow up e-mail in order to get the permit processed, so I suggest that if you don't hear from the BAI in a couple of days, call them or if possible have someone in the Philippines follow up on your application. Otherwise, the approved permit might take too long to get back to you.

Once approved the BAI will send you the approved permit which you must print out and -together with your pets vaccination records and international health certificate - present at Customs at the airport upon your arrival.

And that's it! Those are all the things I needed to get Tramp checked in at DFW airport in Dallas and out of Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Manila.

NOTE: I called the US Department of Agriculture just to make sure there weren't any requirements that they might need on their end, but there were none. However, they did advise me that in case the destination country needed to see the USDA's endorsement on my pet's health certificate, then I should mail them the certificate using overnight express delivery and they would be able to mail me back the endorsed health certificate within a week.

IMPORTANT: You have to reserve a space for your pet in cargo on your flight. The slots for pet carriers in cargo per flight are limited so as soon as you have all the airline requirements immediately call them again to make that reservation, and then call them again on the following day to confirm your pets reservation on your flight.

If you have a connecting flight with the same airline make sure the airline agent you speak with checks that your pet is also clear to be transported on the connecting flight as well. If your connecting flight is with another airline, be sure to call them as well to make separate reservations with them.

USA 2010

2011-01-18T20:45:00.005+08:00

Since this is my personal blog, allow me to share a few videos of my September-December 2010 USA Trip. Although the trip was about attending a program on dog training and canine behavior, it was also time for some rest and recreation. Thanks for watching! Not to worry, pet stuff coming up!

Ollie

2010-08-22T09:28:00.000+08:00

Just a short video I produced using my new digital camera: Ollie and me having a little training exercise. Even the cat wants to participate! The outtakes will reveal our performance was actually less than perfect ;p.

Campaign for Cats

2010-08-22T09:16:00.000+08:00

In support of the Philippine Animal Welfare Society's campaign for shelter cat adoptions, here is an entry about my own adopted cat Milka and some thoughts on being a cat guardian.

My guess is Milka was around 6 months old when I first saw her – a talented black and white hunter. I would often come home to find her hiding in the wild grasses that grew around my boarding house, stalking her prey – a bird or rat usually. I liked watching her, admiring how frequently successful she was at hunting. For a long while, that was the extent of our relationship – mild interest and passing glances without further thought. I vaguely remember how it progressed from that, perhaps I'd left some leftovers out more times than could be overlooked by a homeless stray, or maybe I was grateful for how she took care of the rat problem indoors as well and wanted to repay her for her hard work. In any case, one day she just decided to move in and for some reason I suddenly found myself each day worrying about where to find that fish I know she loves and never coming home without one.

Cat guardians, especially those caring for the common domestic short hair or Pusang Pinoy, often get odd looks from people who have never owned or been owned by a cat. After all, we must be a little bit crazy for sharing our homes with an animal that by many is regarded as little more than a pest found in abundance roaming the streets. Even crazier for giving a damn about an animal whose affections are seemingly so hard won. Why not just care for a dog who will love you even with little effort on your part, whose usefulness is apparent in how he guards our homes and barks at strangers, and makes us constantly feel good because by just looking at your dog you know you are needed and loved?

Dogs have been in my life since my childhood, so before Milka, I never imagined myself a cat person. When you have been living in a dog-exclusive home and find it suddenly occupied by a cat, you will find that applying the measure of a dog to a cat is an exercise in futility and frustration. Where once you could count on immediate affection you will learn to be patient for it. Where once you expected obedience and respect, you will learn to give them first. To say the least, for myself it was an interesting and educational transition. An expansion in fact, because as much as I am a dog person, now I am also a cat person. Heavily and happily afflicted by the cat crazies.

The misconception often is that you can only be one or the other - either a dog person or a cat person. I say, if you are a dog person, then you are an animal person, and thus you have it in you to open your heart just as much to cat whiskers and purrs as you do to lolling tongues and wagging tails. Get a little cat crazy! Trust me, you will be better off dropping the labels and limitations on where you choose to place your affections.

Eight years and many, many cat tales later, Milka still lives with me in Quezon City – healthy and plump, one of seven of my adopted strays.

Open your heart and home
to a shelter cat.

Adopt from PAWS.
or
Read and spread the word
about cats for adoption
at the PAWS Shelter.

If you have cat tales you would like to share please e-mail me at dvm@marosemagpily.com. (Maximum of 600 words and two images only; articles may be subject to editing.)

Adopt a PAWS Shelter Animal

2010-06-23T23:21:00.081+08:00

Fund for Animals founder and author Cleveland Amory wrote a book called "The Cat Who Came for Christmas" wherein he humorously relates his life with Polar Bear a stray white cat that he rescued from off the streets of New York. The last paragraph reads

"...I hope even more that those of you who have never had an animal will hie yourselves to the nearest shelter, and adopt one. If you do, you will surely find that that animal will give you, every day of his or her life, not only joy and companionship, but also that very special kind of love which can be understood...only by those fortunate enough ever to have been owned by one."

A second noteworthy quote is from a sign posted beside the entrance to the Black Beauty Ranch - an animal sanctuary established by the Fund for Animals:

"I have nothing to fear. And here my story ends.
My troubles are all over, and I am at home."
- Last line from Black Beauty by Anna Sewell

As best expressed by Amory and Sewell, we continue to hope for a guardian and a good home for every shelter animal and stray still out there.

Please visit the Philippine Animal Welfare Society Adoption Page if you are interested in adopting one of the adorable cats or dogs from the PAWS Shelter. Featured here are a few of the more than 200 shelter cats in desperate need of a loving home. (Original text and images displayed below were provided by PAWS.)

If you are not personally looking to adopt a shelter animal at the moment but would still like to help, then please do share these shelter cats' stories with your online social networks.

A NOTE FROM PAWS: Shelter cat numbers have reached an all-time high of 243. And what a time to have an all-time low in terms of cat adoptions - so far - only TWO cats have been adopted for the month of June. Please help us get more cats adopted.

PAWS is also in need of

CAT FOOD DONATIONS - Shelter cats consume 22kgs of dry cat kibble a day. PAWS buys "Princess" cat food because it is the cheapest at P1,900 per 22kg sack
DOG COLLARS - Aspin size
DOG LEASHES
CAT QUARANTINE CAGES - We need to buy a specific size of cage and can get a discount from the cage supplier. One cage is approximately P2000 and you may ask possible donors to coordinate with philpaws@yahoo.com if they want to be purchasing the cages themselves and bringing them to PARC.
FRONTLINE SPOT-ON - for medium-sized dogs.

Contact information for donations

PAWS is located along Aurora Blvd., Katipunan Valley, Loyola Heights, QC. Map is available on the PAWS website www.paws.org.ph. You can drop off your donations in kind during office hrs of Mon - Sat , 10am to 5pm.

Paypal donations accepted online. Click on the Paypal button on the PAWS website

Deposit directly to PAWS bank account: Philippine National Bank (PNB) - 072-830174-0

under the name "The Philippine Animal Welfare Society (PAWS)"

Better a Growling Dog...

2010-06-10T21:06:00.004+08:00

When our own dog growls at us we have the tendency to feel angry and disrespected. And feeling the need to assert dominance over our pet, many owners might go so far as to punish the dog by beating him or subjecting him to some other harsh penalty such as locking him up in a cage or leaving him outdoors for the night. But did you know that it is actually inadvisable to punish your dog for growling at you?

Growling is a dog's way of communicating displeasure. It usually precedes snapping or biting at the source of the displeasure – such as your hand coming too close to the food bowl, especially if your dog is not used to this. Growling is your chance to step away before the dog's displeasure escalates to physical aggression. If you punish your dog for growling at you by reprimanding or beating him you are setting yourself up for trouble. When you punish your dog for growling, he will learn not to growl, consequently not giving any indication of what is likely to follow – a snap or bite. Veterinarian and behaviorist Dr. Ian Dunbar refers to this as “a bomb without its tick”. It goes off without warning.

Before I started to study canine behavior, I had a Chow-Chow patient with a skin problem. I approached the animal and seeing no indication of him being upset or anything, I bent down to inspect the animal, parting the hair around his head and neck to check his skin for lesions. In a flash, he was on me. Teeth sank into my wrist and then into my thigh before the owner managed to pull him off and away. Never the slightest growl, just the sudden attack.

Granted, I was less sensitive to dog warning signs for aggression then, but this incident left me with something to think about when months later I would learn that punishing for growling is a big mistake. This knowledge combined with a suspicion that the Chow-Chow had been subjected to abuse now lead me to believe that the animal might have been beaten for growling at his owner, and had consequently learned to eliminate growling from his repertoire of communication behaviors.

Your dog growling at you in a way communicates a certain distrust of your intentions towards your dog, and could indicate poor conditioning to handling or to being approached by humans. It is best addressed by gradual counter-conditioning. A behaviorist or experienced trainer should be able to help you with this.

In the meantime, if your dog growls at you for any reason, it may be better to just simply step away from the dog.

About Puppy's Vaccinations

2010-05-25T10:35:00.015+08:00

Your veterinarian considers a lot of factors when deciding on the appropriate vaccination protocol for your puppy. Thus, you should expect that apart from giving your puppy a physical exam, your vet will first look over your puppy's vaccination record if available, and ask many questions that can give the veterinarian clues about the current immunization status and susceptibility to disease of your puppy.

The following is a list of some of the questions veterinarians generally ask before formulating a vaccination schedule and how the information these questions provide is important:

Question: How long since you acquired the puppy from its previous home, petshop or breeder?

If your puppy's recent history (from before he came under your guardianship) is unknown, or if he came from a questionable source, a short observation period may be warranted to determine if the puppy is not presently incubating a disease the symptoms of which may become apparent within a week or so. Vaccinating a puppy that may already be infected with a disease may cause added stress to the immune system and aggravate the illness, and may also result in poor immune response to the vaccine.
Also, if your puppy was transported from a distant location before arriving at your home, the puppy may still be recovering from the stress of travel and from suddenly being separated from all things familiar. The puppy needs to have adequate time to rest and get used to his new environment before receiving his next shots.

Question: Was the mother vaccinated before her pregnancy? And did the puppy suckle from its mother in the first 24-48 hours of its life?

Your vet needs to determine if the mother of your puppy developed antibodies through vaccination or exposure to the disease. Antibodies are good, they help fight disease.
IF the mother has developed antibodies for a certain disease, AND the puppy is then able to suckle the mother's milk within the first 24-48 hours of its life, THEN the mother will have passed maternal antibodies for that disease down to her puppy providing it with protection from the said disease.
However, maternal antibodies also block effectiveness of a vaccine:

Lots of maternal antibodies in the puppy = Vaccine is not effective
Few to no maternal antibodies in the puppy = Vaccine is effective

Question: How old is the puppy? What is the puppy's date of birth?

Over several weeks following birth, maternal antibodies in the puppy decrease in number, thus, a Window of Susceptibility is opened. This is when maternal antibodies are too low to provide protection, but too high to allow a vaccine to work. During this time, puppies can get sick even if they have been vaccinated.

Immunization is different from vaccination: A puppy is said to be vaccinated if it has received the vaccine shot. Depending on the response of the puppy's immune system to the vaccine, the puppy may then become immunized or protected from a certain disease.

According to scientific research, generally, at 6 weeks of age, maternal antibodies are low enough in number that vaccines can work. Vets may decide to start vaccinating around this time.
At around 3-4 months of age, when the last shot is given the puppy's immune system will have “kicked in” and is now able to protect the puppy without need for boosters until about a year later.
The anti-rabies vaccine is given only once, generally at 3 months of age or older, and repeated annually. Read Puppies Are Not Born With Rabies for more information.

Question: Has the puppy received previous vaccinations from any other vet?

Repeated vaccinations / boosters are given every 2-3 weeks, generally starting at 6 weeks until the puppy is around 3-4 months old. This ensures that the amount of antibodies (from vaccination) are brought up to protective levels.
If a puppy has been vaccinated by a previous vet, the vet presently attending to your puppy will need to know how long ago the puppy had received the last vaccination because over-vaccination may cause hypersensitivities and have other adverse effects on your puppy's health.

Question: Where do you live? Where do you keep the puppy? Do you live with a lot of people, dogs or other animals?

These questions can help the vet identify what diseases your puppy is at risk of contracting. She may then recommend additional vaccines for your pet outside of those usually given.
The risk of exposure to disease may be greater if your puppy is often exposed to possible disease-carrying agents such as humans, other dogs and other animals. Your vet may make adjustments to the vaccination protocol depending on this.
It is a reality that not all Filipino pet owners can afford or are willing to spend on the series of shots that a puppy requires to protect him from disease. (I would argue that people who have not figured pet health care bills into their budget should not be owning pets in the first place, however, that point is moot when the client already arrives at your clinic with the puppy in hand.) Because of this reality, some vets – sometimes at the insistence of the client - may try to come up with a vaccination schedule that figures in financial concerns. The puppy's surroundings and general quality of life are important factors to consider for the vet when formulating a vaccination schedule for your puppy. Your vet should always inform you of the risks of going against a recommended vaccination protocol.

Please bear in mind that, although based on scientific findings and recommendations as well as on standard veterinary practices, this article contains generalizations, and simplified information and explanations. It is meant for the understanding of pet owners and laymen and should not be taken as a scientific guideline or a statement of scientific fact.

Vet Reflects

2010-05-24T09:31:00.002+08:00

If you really must have a reason for being kind to animals, consider that it might be your own humanity that is saved when you show kindness towards an animal, and respect and value life in whatever shape or form it may come.

"My Puppy Bites! My Puppy Chews!”

2010-05-21T12:23:00.014+08:00

This is a common complaint among new pet owners who have just acquired a puppy. The puppy started out cute and cuddly. The first day they took him home with them, all they could think about was how adorable and harmless he looked.

But once the puppy had adjusted to his new home and family, the under-prepared pet owner realizes to his great dismay that he has opened his doors to a creature capable of wreaking havoc upon his furniture, his clothes, and even upon the human family members.

A puppy's sharp little teeth can turn into a menace if left unchecked. It only takes a minute for a puppy to tear up that slipper you left on the floor, or to shred the newspaper or the mail that was left at your gate. In the blink of an eye a puppy will have reduced the legs of your dining room chairs into toothpicks, and your favorite sneakers into his favorite chewtoy.

Worst of all is when the nipping and chewing wrath is turned on you.

Is this normal behavior?

Absolutely. Puppies bite. Puppies use their mouths to explore the world because they do not possess hands with which to touch and feel, they bite because this is how they would play with other puppies.

Sadly, when the puppy biting starts. many unprepared Filipino pet owners decide to get rid of the puppy, stuff him in a cage or tether him in the backyard or in some other secluded area of the house, avoiding the issue altogether. Many misinformed Filipinos, resort to this because of the fear of contracting rabies because many still believe that puppies are born with rabies and that it is some kind of poison that dogs possess. (Read The Truth About Rabies for more information regarding this.)

The worst thing you can do once you have recognized the nipping problem in your puppy is to stuff him in a cage and avoid playing with him, hoping that he will grow out of it eventually.Rather than stuffing your puppy in a cage as punishment for doing what is natural to him, you need to

Manage the situation
Redirect the chewing and nipping behavior
Give time-outs for nipping on humans, and chewing on No-No items
Praise when puppy gets it right.

1) Manage the Situation

A messy living space will not help your cause. Keep items that are tempting chewables for your puppy off the ground and out of reach. If you complain that puppy eats your slippers, don't give puppy the opportunity to be alone with your footwear. If the sala has a carpeted floor that puppy would love to tear up, never leave the puppy in the sala unsupervised.

2) Redirect the chewing and nipping behavior

Interact with your puppy using proper chewtoys, tug toys, and other dog toys that the puppy is allowed to sink his teeth into. So what exactly is a proper chewtoy? Veterinarian and animal behaviorist Dr. Ian Dunbar describes a chewtoy as being “indestructible and unconsumable”. That means the dog should not be able to tear it apart nor swallow and eat it. Therefore, by this definition rubber squeaky toys, tennis balls, stuffed or plush toys, etc. are NOT PROPER CHEWTOYS. While it is alright for you to let your dogs play with these, play using these or similar items should always be supervised. Never leave a destructible, consumable toy with your pet. Always put them away when the play session is over.

Examples of proper chewtoys include hard rubber toys, rawhides and maybe occasionally a bone. Please note, however:

Rawhides are sometimes prepared using harmful chemicals. Do not give these too often.
Cooked bones and bones that are inappropriately sized are dangerous to give to your dog, please educate yourself on this before giving your dogs any bones.

Hollowed out, hard rubber toys are my favorite thing to give to my dog. The Kong is one that I always recommend to my clients. It is a hard rubber chewtoy that can be stuffed with food or treats. If used properly, you can condition your dog to love gnawing at a Kong, while trying to get at the treats that you stuffed inside.

3) Give time-outs for chewing on No-No items, or for nipping too hard on hands, arms, feet, legs, etc.

A time-out is a penalty given to puppy when he is misbehaving.

Say you caught your puppy chewing on furniture: Call the puppy, if he comes offer him a proper chewtoy. If he ignores you or abandons the chewtoy that you offered and returns to the No-No item and chews that, pick him up and put him in his cage/crate for about 30 seconds before letting him out again. For larger puppies, confining him in a room where he can't get into any trouble, or tethering him work as time-outs as well. Repeat every time puppy misbehaves.

The same thing goes for puppy play biting. If your puppy gets too excited and accidentally bites down too hard on your hand that you feel it is painful, cry out “Ouch!” or “Aray!” and immediately end the play session and put him in time-out. I say to do this only when the puppy bites down too hard because we are also trying to teach him Bite Inhibition. But more on that later.

4) Praise when puppy gets it right

Do not strike or hit a puppy when he misbehaves. Harsh punishment works occasionally but often you are only setting yourself up for future behavioral problems in your dog if you persist in using pain inflicting methods to discipline him. Rather, don't hold back on the praises and the treats when you see your puppy chewing on what he ought to be chewing.

With proper management, redirection and lots of praise, puppy will soon develop a healthy addiction to chewtoys and your furniture and footwear will be safe from harm.

(Ollie enjoying his Kongs)

"Doc, Is This Really Necessary?" Forceful restraints during vet visits

2010-05-19T19:26:00.005+08:00

On a visit to the vet clinic it is sometimes distressing for an owner to see their precious pet get forcefully handled and restrained by the veterinarian, vet assistant or groomer. The pet that is not used to being handled by persons other than those of their human family is at a huge disadvantage in these situations – they have no confidence in the clinic setting, are easily stressed and often – to facilitate examination and treatment - are necessarily restrained by the veterinary staff through methods that some pet owners might find overly harsh and injurious. Muzzles, ropes, and a great many hands and arms are utilized to subdue the fearful, resistant animal – not a pretty sight.

Is this really necessary? Here are some of the reasons why it might be:

In an emergency situation where the speedy administration of medication is paramount.
To protect the vet and to protect the animal from itself
When vets do not have the luxury of time owing to the fact that other clients and patients are accumulating in the waiting room.
When the client is in a hurry.

3) and 4) seem rather cold and selfish on the part of the vet and the client but they are a reality.

In my opinion, forceful restraints should be tolerated and forgivable if the procedure is not routine, and when getting it over quickly may prove to be the less stressful option. But if you are uncomfortable with and unsure about what the vet is doing to your pet let her know (in as nice a way as possible) that you are distressed. We vets sometimes get so wrapped up in wanting to get the job done that we lose sight of the emotional state of the animal and its respective owner. At other times we overlook the fact that a client would benefit from having veterinary procedures explained to them in simpler terms so that you the client can be sure that forceful restraints are in fact necessary in the case of your pet.

Vets and clients, however, should be aware that for routine procedures (e.g. nail trimming, ear cleaning, handling for general check-ups, etc.) the animal could benefit from some conditioning exercises that will allow her to get used to being handled on a regular basis.

The best thing an owner can do to prepare their pet for a visit to the vet clinic is to condition the animal at an early age to accept being handled and examined. From puppyhood, practice handling, gentling and cradling exercises with your puppy.

One way to do it is this: Rest the puppy on your lap with her feet in the air and her back resting against your thighs. Let her nibble on treats in your one hand while massaging parts of her body with the other hand. Massage the head, both ears, the tummy and inner thighs, each leg and foot and even the tail. This way she will get used to your touch. Let other people handle your puppy as well, and schedule visits to the vet just for the purpose of conditioning. Explain to your vet what you are trying to achieve and I'm sure she will be eager to help you out.

Conditioning as was described above is also applicable to older dogs, however, it may take a longer time to get them used to this exercise especially for dogs in which negative conditioned emotional responses to vet visits have already been established.

To help you get the idea of handling and gentling, watch the following videos from dogstardaily.com:

Dog Aggressive for Toenail Trim: AskDrYin.com

2010-05-18T12:51:00.009+08:00

This video demonstrates how one can condition a dog that is aggressive for toe-nail trimming to accept being groomed. If you are bringing your nailtrim-fearful pet to a clinic for some minor grooming, bring along some treats and ask your vet or groomer if he/she could try this out with you, or you could start the conditioning at home with family members helping out.
Your pet will realize there is nothing to fear about getting nails trimmed and may even look forward to it knowing that treats are involved. Remember, patience is the key! This might take a longer or shorter time depending on the extent of the pet's previous negative conditioning towards nailtrimming. But it will be worth it, especially if you consider all the stress-free nailtrimming sessions that will follow. After conditioning, some dogs don't even react when the quick of their nail accidentally gets cut!

This conditioning technique can also be applied to other things the dog is afraid of. Take the time to do this with your dog and you'll both be happier for it!

Puppies Are Not Born With Rabies

2010-05-18T10:39:00.016+08:00

When a new puppy is presented to me for vaccinations, I begin by doing a physical exam, I ask the owner some pertinent questions and then write down my recommended vaccination schedule. More often than not, the pet owner is incredulous when he discovers that the Anti-Rabies vaccine is not the first vaccine on my list.

“Doc,” the pet owner will say, ”We just want the Anti-rabies shot for the puppy. We are just afraid that he might accidentally bite us and give us rabies.”

It is at this point that I invariably launch into my “Puppies are not born with rabies” speech, and beginning with just these six simple words I have been able to dispel a long held erroneous belief among many a Filipino pet owner.

Far too many Filipinos are still stuck with the notion that Rabies is a poison (or kamandag) that a dog is born with - much like a poisonous snake is born with the ability to produce venom.

This is NOT TRUE! Rabies is NOT a poison or venom.

Rabies is a disease. Just like the common flu, Rabies is caused by a virus. A person or animal can get infected with the rabies virus when the virus-laden saliva of an infected animal comes into contact with the mucous membranes of an uninfected animal. This generally occurs through animal bites.

All mammals can get infected with rabies. That includes dogs and cats, and other common pets such as rabbits, hamsters and guinea pigs to name a few examples of mammals that we live with. And, yes, that also includes humans.

An animal may be suspected of having rabies if it shows signs such as

depression, a general change from normal behavior,

difficulty in swallowing, which may manifest as an aversion towards water,

foaming at the mouth due to excessive drooling,

increased aggression,

biting or attacking everything it sees,

partial or complete paralysis, incoordination.

There is no cure for an infected animal and death soon follows when these clinical signs begin to show.

The good news is that rabies is a completely preventable disease. Anti-rabies vaccination administered through a subcutaneous injection at the appropriate age (generally 3 months old) protects the animal from getting rabies from other infected animals with which it may come into contact. This protection will last the animal for a very long time, and only needs to be re-administered once every year (as mandated by Philippine Law).

In summary, and because I have not said it enough, I want to make it clear:

Puppies are NOT born with rabies.

Rabies is caused by a virus.

The anti-rabies vaccination for dogs is given

to protect the puppy or dog from getting infected with rabies.

Puppies are NOT born with rabies!