While summer is slouching toward its conclusion more and more of this new season’s ski film trailers come around. Perhaps the most interesting film of this autumn is ‘AZADI: Freedom’ produced by b4apres.com. The enthralling thing about ‘AZADI’ is that it goes beyond the mere ski or powder film concept. Instead it is a cultural documentary about Gulmarg in Kashmir (India) featuring not only the amazing landscape and backcountry options of this Himalayan region but explicitly focusing on the dreadful history of this region in the 1990ies when Kashmir turned from ‘paradise on the earth’ to a nightmare of military conflict (then labelled as ‘the most dangerous place in the world’ by Bill Clinton).

With peace resumed in 2003 Gulmarg soon became famous (at least in certain cycles) as a near perfect freeride paradise. Situated in the Pir Panjal Range of the Middle Himalayas Gulmarg and its ski resort (2600-3900 m, served mainly by a POMA cable car finally finished in 2005) offers abundant off-piste and backcountry skiing.

The film AZADI:Freedom will be released within the next few weeks and can already pre-ordered at b4apres.com).

“AZADI: Freedom” Official Trailer from b4apres media on Vimeo.

The exact dimensions of the world’s largest digital picture are incredible 404864 x 124832 pixels. The picture was shot last July by Julian Kalmar and stitched together from more than 3600 single images. The images were shot in July 2010 from the observation platform of Vienna’s Donauturm (Danube Tower), about 170m above ground.

Donauturm in Vienna

Since the Donauturm is located just in the opposite (with the Danube river in between) of Vienna’s City Centre it offers a breathtaking panoramic view over Vienna. The mega-sized image covers the whole 360 degree panorama. Thus, it is possible to look at the green suburbs in the north of Vienna as well. Zooming in allows exploring innumerable details, water lilies at the ‘Alte Donau’ (a backwater of the Danube and a popular recreative area) or people sitting at the deck of a river cruise ship, for example.

The only drawback is that the images were shot in summer and not in autumn or winter when the clear views are usually much better. However, it is a perfect tool for exploring Vienna and its surroundings:

Panoramic View of Vienna (Photoartkalmar)

Photo credits Donauturm

Portland-based ON3P is a start-up ski manufacturer founded last year by Scott Angus. Though still in their infant period they boast an interesting array of skis geared to freeriding and freeskiing.

Ski: ON3P Billy Goats model 2009/2010
Shape: tip rocker: 23cm x 2cm, tail Rocker: 13cm x 1.5cm , full twin, 140-115-120 mm, 20,3 m radius
Weight: about 4.5 kg
Available lenghts: 176 cm – 186 (tested in 176cm)
Mounting point: Right at the mark (white mark at the sidewalls) as recommended by ON3P
Bindings: Dynafit ST
Boots: Dynafit Zzeus

ON3P Billy Goats

My very first run with the Billy Goats was back in February this winter (in the French resort Puy de St. Vincent). Snow conditions were ridiculous bad with some new, extremely wet snow. The run started with a narrow, bumpy slope. Despite the challenging snow conditions I immediately felt the great agility of the Billy Goats. They are really just as advertised. With their ability to make fast and easy turns they are a really playful tool. Soon the bumpy run led to mellow meadows with only just a few tracks. It seemed that no one was eager to leave the groomed pistes in these almost surreal snow conditions. First, I could not imagine that it would be possible to have fun in this slushy snow. Not so with the Billy Goats! They floated perfectly on top of the slush. Just this one run was enough for me to fell in love with the Billy Goats as skis and not only as perfectly designed art-work.

A few days later I had the chance to test the Billy Goats in more winter-like conditions. A very welcomed storm system has deposited about 20-30 cm new snow and temperatures have fallen significantly. Though the fairly strong winds resulted in wind-packed snow higher up we expected to experience fine powder in the abundant larch woods of the Haute Queyras. Just as advertised the Billy Goats excel in soft snow. They are extremely easygoing. Changing the rhythm of the turns needs almost no efforts. The larch woods happened to be the perfect playground. The easy turn-ability of these skis makes them perfect for tree skiing. Though I did enjoy the Billy Goats in windpacked I did not feel that secure as it was with Pmgears Lhasa Pows (see my Lhasa Pow review).

At least in soft snow skinning is really easy with kickturns posing no problems. However I would hesitate using the Billy Goats over steep traverses in very hardpacked or even icy conditions.

Cruising wind-packed snow with the Billy Goats (Haute Queyras)

Performance on (hard) groomed runs was o.k. but carving the groomers is certainly not what is intended with these skis. I felt the BGs were a little bit ‘fickle’ and giving no assurance at higher speeds.

Later on this winter I used the Billy Goats everytime when I expected to encounter the typical dense woods (with the associated bushwacking) of the local Vienna hills.

The Billy Goats are a perfect choice for having fun in the dense woods of the Viennese hills

To sum up: A playful and very agile ski with a strong focus on powder snow. The design and graphic layout is truly eye-catching. The quality of the handicraft seems to be top. Given the relative low price (especially for a handmade, boutique-like ski) a widespread success of ON3P’s Billy Goats seems to be guaranteed. Note that the shape of the 2010/11 model has been slightly changed due to feedback of the freeride community (especially over at TGR) with the aim to improve their performance on hardpacked snow. The design has been changed as well and it is again an example of wonderful art-work.

It is time to say good bye to the 2009/10 winter season. However there are still some snowfields to find which seem to be worthwile to ski. Though it is more of a hiking with some (relatively short) skiing in between than a real ski tour. Basically there are two different locations for summer skiing in the direct vicinity of Vienna.

The first location is to be found at the Schneeberg and is easily accessed via the cog railway from Puchberg and a short (30 to 50 minutes) hike to the summit of the Schneeberg. It is called the Hacker bowl and is just beneath the two different summits of the Schneeberg (Klosterwappen, 2076m and Kaiserstein, 2061m). It is a wide, open bowl which is filled with snow usually until June. The skiable vertical is about 150 m. There is even a summer ski race each year (usually at the beginning of May).

The Fischer hut near the summit of the Schneeberg

The second location is the Lange-Mann-Couloir at the Rax. From Preiner Gscheid (1070m, parking lot) it is a hike of about 1.5 – 2h to the area around the Predigtstuhl summit (1903m) at the Rax massif. There, a narrow chute, called “Lange Mann Rinne”, is filled with enormous amounts of snow during the winter. Usually it is skiable (about 300-400 m vertical) until May (sometimes even until beginning of June).

Skiing the Lange Mann (Rax), May 2010

PMGear is an independent boutique-like ski manufacturer based in Reno (Nevada) with roots in the freeride community around the TGR forums. With its deep embededdness in the U.S. and (more and more) worldwide freeride community PMGear produces a whole bundle of skis developed entirely for the needs of the off-piste crowd.

One of their latest ski models is the Lhasa Pow. Last summer I used the pre-sale conditions and ordered a pair of 186 Lhasa Pow in its carbon type model (there is a fiberglass model on offer as well). After one winter (I used the Lhasas as my “first choice” from February to April) on these skis I think that I do have enough experience on them to write a review.

Just some basics about their features:

Ski: Lhasa Pow Bro model 186 Carbon 2009/2010
Shape: tip-rocker, semi pintail, 3 mm positive camber, 140-112-122 mm
Weight: about 4 kg
Available lenghts: 186 cm – 191 cm – 196 cm (tested in 186cm)
Mounting point: Right at the mark (red line) as recommended by pmgear

Lhasa Pow Bro model (pmgear)

Rigged with Dynaft Comfort bindings (about 1 kg) the skis are comparatively lightweight for their size making them perfect backcountry touring skis.

During the winter I accounted a great range of snow and terrain conditions. I skied them from the dense woods at the Unterberg near Vienna to the wide, open glaciers atop of La Grave (France). Snow conditons varied from fresh powder over wind-affected snow and crust to slushy spring time snow.

Though it is fair to say that the Lhasas are powder-oriented skis they excel in all snow conditions. They even stood up to the test at the icy moguls of the home-run in the woods down to La Grave. Their versatility is incredible making them a truly one-quiver ski just as advertised. From big mountain lines to narrow tree runs and steep couloirs they performed really well. Even on groomed runs you would not believe to have 112 mm under your food.

Lhasa Pow at the entrance of the Narrndattl couloir (Schneeberg)

As expected their performance in powder is superior. Thanks to the tip rocker and the ski’s general shape they float perfectly in soft snow. Though I like them best using long lines they are surprisingly easy to turn even with narrower radius. Changes between different radius is easy and takes virtually no effort at all.

Floating with the Lhasas in fresh snow (Queyras, France), photy by gerrit

What is especially astonishing about the Lhasa Pow is their excellent performance in sub-par snow conditions. Crusty snow is usually quite detrimental to having fun. Not so with the Lhasas. The same holds true with wind-packed snow. Skiing the Lhasas in these snow conditions is almost as easily and as enjoyable as in real powder.

Each year the cog railway from the little town of Puchberg to the alpine plateau of the Schneeberg massif is opened around late April (it is out of operation during the winter due to huge snow drifts and avalanche danger).

Puchberg railway station with the Schneeberg

Then the many couloirs and chutes of the Schneeberg massif are easily accessible even for the lazy freerider who might be discouraged by the two to three hours approach during the winter. The train ride with the cog railway lasts about 50 minutes and then most of the entries of the various skiing runs are within a short hike up to about 40 to 50 minutes.

Earn your turns at the Schneeberg

Thanks to this short approach two (or even three) runs are easily possible. Usually we choose a warm-up run at the southern side in the forenoon. Though the conditions at the southern side (this time we chose the Saugraben for our first descent) were rather mixed. The below average snow cover of the winter combined with a general warm spring resulted in almost “early summer” conditions.

Late season corn in the Saugraben, Schneeberg

Then, at the afternoon the snow at the northern couloirs should be “corny” enough. My personal favourite is the Narrndattl Couloir which is an alternative entry into the massif snow bowl of the so called “Breite Ries”. It is a neat little couloir, steep and narrow but not intimidating and it holds the snow really long due to its northern exposition. After the couloir itself the wide slopes open up and provide almost perfect terrain for wide turns.

Entrance of the Narrndattl Couloir at the Schneeberg

The Narrndattl couloir is one of the lesser known descents of the Schneeberg. The steepest part of the couloir is about 43 degrees. It was first skied by Wolfgang Ladenbauer in 1973. Wolfgang Ladenbacher is the author of the standard ski guide book of the Schneeberg massif (highly recommended but in German only).

Temperatures have been roller-coasting during the last couple of weeks. Warm periods with significant melting have been interrupted by some colder days and even some snowfalls down to lower regions. Thus the spring skiing season around Vienna is surprisingly fine again this year. After the somewhat disappointing winter and some really warm periods in March we were quite nervous about the subsequent development. However, our fears have not materialized and everything is o.k. Most of the classic spring lines in the various higher mountain massifs (especially at the Schneeberg, Schneealpe and Veitsch massif) are good to ski. The avalanche situation is quite relaxed.

Again, our goal for the last weekend was the Niederalpl. A perfect spot not only for lift-assisted powder runs during the winter but also for some ‘classic’ ski touring in spring (the small ski resort is closed since April, 4).

We skinned up the northern slopes of the Kleiner Wildkamm (1757 m) which gave us a 500 m descent in fine spring corn. Just a small outing but enough for reminding us that the skiing season is still in swing here and there are more than enough possibilities worhtwile to harvest.

Northern slopes of the Kleiner Wildkamm, Veitsch massif, Styria.

This winter has been rather disappointing with a below average snow cover in the Vienna region. However, beginning with last weekend a significant dump delivered up to 100 cm new snow. Accordingly, total snow heights went up to the roof. Niederalpl (Styria) reported a total snow cover of 190 cm yesterday evening, Hochkar (Lower Austria) reported 220 cm and Brunnalm/Veitsch (Styria) reported 120 cm.

The region around the traditional ski resort Semmering (just about 70 km south of Vienna) was again a winter wonder land covered by a deep layer of fresh snow.

Hotel Panhans. Winter wonderland at the Semmering

Though the rising temperatures with freezing levels of up to 2000 m are soon going to degrade the new powder into heavy and wet snow a good spring ski season around Vienna seems finally to be secured.

Of course, the snow masses mean higher avalanche dangers. The avalanche service of Styria reports a danger level of 4 for the northern part of Styria.

It has been a long waiting. December and January were horrible months for powder-seeking skiers in Eastern Austria (and in almost the whole Northern Alps). However, a significant dump during the last two days satisfied all our desperate needs for powder. About 50-60cm of fresh new snow turned the hills of Eastern Austria into a winter wonderland. It was a pleasure riding the long awaited snow and enoying being back on the planks.

Fresh powder and winter sun - ingredients for a great outing

Our chosen location, the Niederalpl proved to be a good spot for harvesting the fresh powder. No crowds whatsoever and a fine combination of open runs, treeskiing and some bushwacking. Of course, due to the high degree of avalanche danger we had to stick to mellow terrain or fairly thick woods.

Powder in the woods around Niederalpl

Imagine a small village deep in an alpine valley. A single cable car going up high into the mountains. No groomed runs leading downhill. Only off-piste runs, perfect for the days after a big dump. And, of course, a huge alpine backcountry with gnarly couloirs and all this stuff.

“Bingo!”, you’ll say, “that’s La Grave in France, for sure.”
“Hold on”, I would say, “that’s Hirschwang at the Rax, just some 80 kilometres south of Vienna”.
And I would be laughing at you for your ignorance and I would tell you my fairy tale of an epic powder day.

Rax massif, seen from the valley around Reichenau, the cable car area is seen in the right part of the picture, photo credits see below

The Rax is a huge mountain massif forming a plateau just above 1500m and peaking in the Heukuppe (2006m) in the westernmost part of the massif. Steep walls surround the whole massif offering some of the best possibilities for alpine climbing in the Vienna region. Hirschwang is located at the easternmost part of the mountain.

Rax cable car near the valley floor, Hirschwang, Lower Austria

The Rax cable car was built as early as 1921 and thus being Austria’s oldest cable car. The total vertical of the cable car is about 1020m! The terrain around the cable car is rather steep with some chutes and couloirs leading down into the woods. At the mellow plateau itself there is a single T-bar offering some beginner slopes and some terrain for park-oriented skiers.

There are various downhill runs which have been skiing for decades now (Schöllergraben, Lahngraben, Seilbahngraben, Maschingraben). All these runs offer fantastic off-piste skiing if the snow is fresh and deep enough. Add some touring possibilities from the top of the railway station (for example Grosser Kesselgraben for the beginners or Grosser Wolfsgraben for advanced skiers) and you get a quite versatile off-piste ski “resort”. Of course, there are dozens of other ascents and descents around this huge mountain but most of them do have different starting points.

Skiing deep powder in the Maschingraben, Rax

Skiing deep powder in the Seilbahngraben, Rax

However, there is one significant caveat. Due to the minimal elevation of the valley floor (just about 520m around the valley station of the cable car in Hirschwang) the snow is only plenty and good enough at certain times during the winter. So the 1000m vertical runs in the vicinity of the cable car are to be enjoyed only a few times during a winter. So you have to be lucky enough to be there in the right time …

Photo credits Rax, view from the valley floor