Vintage Hamilton Wristwatches

Undocumented Hamiltons can be identified if you know how - like with this Fero Feldman

2012-01-27T15:08:00.000-08:00

Fero Feldman Swiss Watch

This isn't a Hamilton watch, but it's an example of how you can miss out on a special Hamilton watch when a seller doesn't know what he has. I bought four undocumented Hamilton watches two years ago because the sellers thought they were replicas.

The Swiss watch pictured here is in Mint condition. It's approximately 60 years old. It's an automatic movement with a day-date.

I bought it for $2.25 on eBay. That's right two dollars and twenty five cents. Fero watches are collector items even in medium condition. I've seen them priced between $150 to 150 pounds.

The watch was advertised as a paperweight because it was shipped in a heavy brass case. It looked like a paperweight.

When you get into the movement, it was made by a Swiss manufacturer for Robert Feldman of Germany. His company failed in 2007.

Heavy Metal Presentation Case

Jewelers, themselves, originally cased Hamilton and Hamilton Bruen movements. The movements were shipped 'uncased'. In some instances, the Jeweler used a third party manufacturers, who made their cases to Hamilton specifications. I have found Hamilton movements in watches without a Hamilton brand. In August 2011, Mr. Poye explained how one of my 1920 Hamilton cases contained an Elgin movement.

You may have a Hamilton watch with a blank face.

This Fero Fedlman goes in my collection.

A decent researcher can identify the real manufacturer. A watch can say Croton on the face and movement, but the actual maker is another Swiss company. I love doing this kind of research, it's not that difficult for me and it makes the owners happy!

Hamilton Winthrop 1939-1940

2012-01-19T12:07:00.000-08:00

Enamel Face

Hamilton Withrop

From 1939 Catalog

The Hamilton Winthrop Wristwatch case was available in yellow or coral 14K gold-filled finish, bezel and back. You could chose the face with the Butler finish/18K applied gold numerals or two-tone enamel. It came with the 14/0 980 Hamilton movement. The dimensions are 20x42mm.

Review: New York Times Article: Fingers That Turn Back the Clock

2012-01-18T11:38:00.000-08:00

"Dimitrie Vicovanu, like a specialized surgeon, goes into the inner worlds of wristwatches, restoring the old and nonticking to near perfection."

One of the best articles I have seen about a great watchmaker. As rare as we are it's special when The New York Times publishes an article about a "73" year-old gentleman with magic fingers and magic eyes who came to the profession late in life.

According to the article he has a street-floor booth on West 47th Street and does repairs in a workshop in Queens.

For anyone interested in mechanical watches, this is a must read.!

Hamilton Cross Country Wristwatch 1956

2012-01-18T11:28:00.000-08:00

Cross Country

From 1956 Hamilton Catalog

Hamilton's Innovation strap version. The Cross Country kept time in five (5) time zones. Revolutionary for the time and difficult to read.

It came with an 18 Jewel Illinois Movement, Yellow gold filled case with a stainless steel back, color hands and 18 gold markers. It's part of the medalist line. Measures 33.4 x 41.2mm overall.

Hamilton Sentinel and Military Minute Men

2012-01-17T16:02:00.000-08:00

The write-up for the "Minute Men" 987 watches in the 1941 Hamilton Catalog says: In the air, on the land or the sea -where America's men in uniform, you will also find Hamilton's fine watch. Here are three rugged 17 Jewel models with easy to read dials especially designed to provide accurate time for America's armed forces.

Hamilton Minute Men

Here's a photo of the Sentinel Featured on the far left. It comes with a 987S movement unique to the Navy and Marines during World War II.

Hamilton Sentinel

Hamilton produced the 987S between 1940-1948. Serial Numbers were SS001 - SS87400.

Hamilton Sherwood

2012-01-02T12:29:00.000-08:00

Hamilton Sherwood

An mid-century hand wind Hamilton. It has a gold filled case, two-tone dial with numerals and markers. Manufactured in 1961 and has a 22 Jewel Hamilton 770 movement.

The Hamilton Sherwood also came with a wooden dial. In fact, you can find these available.

We found one for sale at http://www.bogoff.com/wrist/6141.html

It has the same case, but with a wooden dial. Bogoff has it listed at $2,750.

As a courtesy - not an advertisement:

What's Gold worth right now?

This link will take you to Gold Quote dot Net

Hamilton-Ricoh Electrics

2011-12-31T11:36:00.000-08:00

The Hamilton Ricoh was a joint venture. Electric parts were made by Hamilton. The company marked the movements as Ricoh 555E. I owned a Vantage watch with a 130E Standard Time Corp movement. I bought it in a lot of quartz watches on eBay, only the Vantage wasn't quartz. It cost me about $1.25.

When I did research on it, I found out that they were dumped on US military bases in Japan. The product didn't sell in Japan.

Notice the similarities

Hamilton- Ricoh Movement

Recast as Standard Time

The Vantage and Hamilton Ricoh backs look identical

For additional information click to go to the Hamilton Ricoh Watch Company site.

A restored Hamilton Martin

2011-12-30T15:14:00.000-08:00

I spent last summer at the Texas Institute here in Paris.

After two weeks, I realized that Frank Poye provided me with what I came here for. I could tear down a watch, put it back together and it ran. Some of the watches he gave me, didn't run and by the time I put them back together they did. Now, for me, that's was cool.

Afterwards, I started looking at the next phases. The knowledge base for watches is massive. Now, I want it all. Unfortunately, an large number of individual tools and expensive equipment is required to have even a small personal shop is. That's something to think about. Now, I wish I hadn't sold the equipment I had before I came here. Though I am a serious collector, it isn't my full time job. Or is it? Hmmm

I could go into specifics, but I'll have to do that in other posts. I need a new camera so capture what we did.

Now I know why the Institute here is so highly thought of around the planet. Frank is an absolute sponge when it comes to soaking up any knowledge he can; and he never rests. When you see how easy he transfers knowledge to the people it's remarkable.

click on photo for an expanded view

I want to add a special watch to the photos here. This is a Hamilton Martin. It is listed in the 1941 catalog along with the Myron and Essex. It has distinctive \lugs that some people call rabbit ears. That's not a flattering description. It's a beautiful watch. It came with a 987A movement the case is a Coral colored gold filled. I restored this one two years ago.

I found this one for sale at Captain Hucks.

Hamilton Military Lexington

2011-09-12T10:04:00.000-07:00

The Lexington came with a 17 Jewel Movement and retailed for $42.50. These came with 987A and 987F movements. In 1942, Hamilton ceased manufacturing consumer watches and dedicated its resources to US and British Military use.

You can find excellent information on World War II and other military watches at this link. Unfortunately some of the photo's are missing.

Hamilton Barry - New in 1941

2011-09-12T09:51:00.000-07:00

In the 1941 Catalog. The Barry came with a 982 Movement. 14K Gold Filled with 18K applied gold dial. Retailed for $55.

Finding Fewer Vintage Hamilton Wristwatches

2011-08-30T10:13:00.000-07:00

What's happened?

People have bought-up many watches for parts. Collectors and hobbyists have grabbed as many items as possible. The available inventory from estates and antique malls has started to disappear. Sellers didn't raise prices quickly enough considering demand. Older quality watches of all brands disappear over time.

I bought a 1938 wristwatch for $135 plus shipping. I checked with Fast Fix Jewelry and they wanted $395 plus parts to clean, oil and adjust the watch. They also wanted four months to turn it around. Price disparity? Yep.

I have a bit of advice. Wake up.

Morley

Hamilton Nielsen

2011-08-16T10:09:00.000-07:00

While this watch appears like several others including the Endicott, Prescott and Haddon to mention a few, it has some distinguishing features.

The main identifying marks include the second subsidiary dial, the movement and it's appearance in a 1954 Hamilton Catalog. Let's look:

To the side is the Nielsen and on the bottom you can see the Haddon, which many people confused as the Nielsen.

The Haddon is a cld model.

Hamilton American Classics

2011-08-15T10:54:00.000-07:00

Have you noticed a shortage of vintage Hamilton watches? Unless you're a collector, you may find that the 2011 selection of new Hamilton's would serve you best, especially if you're looking for a "retro" watch to wear.

I'm happier with this year's offerings than any I've seen since I purchased my last "new" Hamilton in 1985.

Take a look. They're nice as is the web site. By the way, the ETA movements are the better "new" movements.

http://www.hamiltonwatch.com/en/gents/american-classic/timeless-classic/#

Restaffing a Balance

2011-08-11T11:00:00.000-07:00

Basic watchmaker's skill involves restaffing and poising a balance then reattaching it to the bridge. The watch should run and keep time within +- 1 second and will need adjusting once the movement is re-assembled and mounted in the case.

I found a fabulous article on restaffing a balance on Tin Connor's web site. You have to look at it. Click here. Notice that he's working on a Hamilton 982 M movement. He goes through the process I followed.

If you had mentioned restaffing a balance before I got to Paris, I would have thought: that's not possible. I restaffed, trued, poised, reattached the roller table and balance spring on nine watches. With Mr. Poye's help, I not only restaffed the hairspring, I took bends out of hairsprings and wheels, tore down and put mechanical watches back together, learned to identify watch manufactures, calibers and appropriate parts by "finger printing" - which means matching a detent or clutch level with the True Fit system. Watches that sat in a box of mine, became viable because I could find the part number I needed and ordered it. I never had that skill before.

Second, I evidently ruffled some feathers by attempting to help people identify Hamilton watches. I can't imagine someone would feel challenged. Interesting.

Hamilton Contour - 1938

2011-08-05T07:09:00.000-07:00

Hamilton produced the "Contour" for one year 1938. Called a "drivers watch" because of the hinged lugs Collectors consider the Contour very collectible due to the limited production and unusual design. Hamilton designed the watch with the crown at 12 o'clock.

The "new" contour is made of stainless steel and has a Quartz movement.

Hamilton Grant and Lee -1934

2011-07-29T10:36:00.000-07:00

Hamilton offered their first strap watches in 10K gold filled in 1934. In this series they offered new dials. The company considered these high grade watches at former minimum prices.

Hamilton Vintage Watch Restoration: Cases

2011-07-26T15:48:00.000-07:00

Texas Institute for Jewelry Technology

Restoring Vintage and Antique Hamilton Watches often requires case repair. I'm investigating what I need to learn to do bench work. Here's an example of a watch that needs serious case work.

You might want to check out the Institute's web site. Here's a quote:

Designing and crafting a piece of jewelry or learning the specialized arts of gemology or horology could be your path to an exciting, challenging and financially rewarding career. If you're looking for technical and artistic opportunities, for the prestige and profitability provided by the jewelry, gemology and horology professions, TIJT's program is for you.

Bench work for me involves working with various tools. Though the technician covers much more than I expect to use, here's what I'm looking for:

Cleaning castings (sawing, filing, emery, polishing and drilling).
Soldering
The bezel set
Repairing catches.
Fabricating bearing bezel pendants and lockets.
Stretching and shrinking

All the work is hands-on and is done in 14k gold, platinum or silver.

Here's an example of a previous restoration piece I did from scratch.

I would like them all to turn out like this.

1950's Hamilton Illinois Bumper

2011-07-26T10:27:00.000-07:00

Click on image for larger view

I'm displaying a Hamilton Illinois automatic wristwatch. After World War II, a deep recession hit the US and Hamilton had to scramble to come up with new ideas. This is one of them. I've never seen it in a catalog.

Hamilton Ward

2011-07-24T11:46:00.000-07:00

Click watch for expanded view.

Hamilton listed this watch in their 1955 catalog as 10K yellow gold filled with a stainless steel back. Black numerals and yellow gold dots. This is a mid-century through back retro watch. Originally priced below the automatics.

What's Your Grandfather's Hamilton Watch Worth? Where's the Gold?

2011-07-23T11:00:00.000-07:00

1914 Advertisement Harper's

New collectors of Hamilton watches have found that the watches for sale on the Internet have come out of estates and garage sales. Gold smelters in the 1970's destroyed approximately 90% of all wind-up vintage watches. If you see a "production" figure of say 2000 units, then maybe 200-250 of that model remain. Here's what happened.

After the United States deregulated gold in 1971, the price increased markedly, briefly reaching more than $800 per troy ounce in 1980. From 1980 to 2007, the price has remained in the range of $320 to $460 per troy ounce. The rapidly rising prices of the 1970's encouraged smelting of anything with gold in it. That meant "gold-filled" watch cases. Why? The gold filled on top of brass and it was significant in amount. Solid gold also laid over brass, but in higher quantities. A $20 used wristwatch became a $200 piece of gold in 1974. My grandfather's jewelry stores would give a customer a trade in allowance when the surrendered their old watch for a new one. Those watches went into a barrel and prior to 1971, like other Jewelers selling Bulova Accutrons, no one thought anything of it.

Then came the on-rush. A firm called Southwest Smelting had a process for leeching the gold out of those watches. The barrels made their way to downtown Dallas, Texas. Off went what we call vintage watches. Who knew? If I could look into the future, I would have held on to my "used" 1957 Chevy.

Recently, a friend of mine sent her grandfather's 1930's Hamilton watch to a relative who pawned it for $10. Maybe the relative didn't care that it belonged to her great uncle. Hamilton didn't make that model in solid gold, so the pawn broker didn't give it much value.(But $10?)

If you reach this entry, leave me a post and I'll write you back. Don't pawn it. I promise to offer fair value.

As a courtesy - not an advertisement:

What's Gold worth right now?

This link will take you to Gold Quote dot Net

Hamilton Seckron Doctor's Watch

2011-07-23T10:46:00.000-07:00

Hamilton produced this watch beginning in 1941. I've seen it describe as a Secron also. It's also known as a doctor's watch and looks very similar to doctor's watches by Longines, Elgin and Sydney. The case measures 21mm x 41mm. It has a 980 series caliber movement (980-B). 10K Gold filled and beginning production date of 1941.

Hamilton Sectometer

2011-07-23T10:26:00.000-07:00

Hamilton released this watch with a 987S movement with sweep second hand. (Sectometer). It has a hack setting for synchronization.Gold field with night glow hands. This watch differed from traditional models with the subsidiary second hand.

Hamilton Sutton

2011-07-23T10:17:00.000-07:00

Hamilton introduced the Sutton in 1936.One of the long tube lug editions. 14K gold filled with a 980 movement. It has a Butler finish dial with individual 18K gold hands and numerals.

Hamilton Judson

2011-07-23T10:01:00.000-07:00

Hamilton issued several models called the Judson. Hamilton produced this model in 1940. It was a 14K gold filled case and the 980 movement. The owner had the face re-dialed with a Butler finish. It came with
applied gold numeral dial. 25mm x 28mm.

Hamilton Langley 1929 Solid Gold

2011-07-23T09:47:00.000-07:00

Hamilton Langley

Hamilton produced 1,800 units. Beginning in 1929. It has a 17-jewel 987 movement. 37mm X 27mm with a three piece case. In 1934, they changed to the 979 movement with a two piece case.