vintage workwear

Hat of the Week: 1960s Era Penney's BIG-MAC Balloon Top Engineer Cap

2014-01-29T14:58:00.002-08:00

First off, apologies to all the readers of this blog for the lack of posts this past year. While we have been sharing with INSTAGRAM @vintageworkwear, it can't take the place of this blog nor does it allow for the multiple photos or written word that help to share just a bit of information about the vintage work clothing we have a passion for. This vintage BIG-MAC denim engineer cap marks the first edition of our new weekly "Hat of the Week" installment and a renewed effort to share information and photos of the vintage workwear we love. Enjoy!

1960s era Penneys BIG-MAC six panel denim "balloon top" engineer cap.

The variation of fading seen on the different types of denim used to construct this cap result in an almost two-tone appearance. Reminiscent of traditional "Eastern" type railroad caps with their hickory stripe crown paired with a denim headband and visor.

Beautiful fade variations between the darker denim of the visor and headband and the lighter edge trim of the visor.

Close up of the lighter weight denim of the headband and visor along with the Penneys BIG-MAC UNION MADE size label.

Close up view of the heavier grain denim used on the six panel crown portion of the cap.

VINTAGE BROWN'S BEACH JACKETS AND VESTS AS SEEN ON HBO'S BOARDWALK EMPIRE

2013-10-07T02:12:00.000-07:00

Sunday night marked three weeks running that various Brown's Beach Jacket garments have been spotted as part of what surely can be said to be some of the if not the best wardrobe currently seen on television.

Four different Brown's Beach Jacket garments can be seen in this scene from the HBO series Boardwalk Empire. From left to right- early BB jacket in black with pointed collar, later blue BB jacket with rounded collar, what looks to be an early BB vest and finally an early BB collar-less jacket in black.

Three weeks ago we were provided a glimpse of Richard Harrow sporting a Brown's Beach vest under his coat and scarf. Last week we were treated to scenes of Richard wearing the same vest, seen below both with and without the wool coat.

Not to get all critical especially since the wardrobe and set dressing is always so good but with Richards vest being in what looked to be in near perfect condition some key details can be easily seen. This particular Brown's Beach vest is a later version as identified by its weave of dark blue, grey, black and white wool herringbone wool and the later Scovil or DOT conventional type snaps measuring 1/2" in diameter. A period correct vest would have been constructed of black, grey and white herringbone weave. The earlier garments sometimes included various shades of brown due to age and exposure to the elements. Another tell tale sign of earlier garments are the much less common larger 3/4" nipple type snaps that were used.

All said, a very good night of television indeed.

1930s Brown's Beach collar-less jacket or cardigan from the vintageworkwear.com collection

Side by side comparison of 1930's era Brown's Beach Jacket black, grey and white wool herringbone weave (seen on left) and 1950's era Brown's Beach Jacket blue, grey and white herringbone weave. vintageworkwear.com collection

Side by side comparison of 1930's era Brown's Beach Jacket 3/4" nipple type snap fastener seen on the left and 1950's era Brown's Beach Jacket 1/2" Scovil brand snap fastener seen on the right. vintageworkwear.com collection


Male portion of early nipple type snap on the left and later conventional type snap on the right. vintageworkwear.com collection


Backside view of female portion of early nipple type snap on the left and later conventional type snap on the right. vintageworkwear.com collection

Some very nice reproduction Brown's Beach Jacket garments can be found at one of our favorite shops, Speedway Haberdashery of Sendai Japan. Check out their online store or see their facebook page here. To view item available from their store in English check them out on Rakuten here.
Above images of Richard Harrow and Al Capone's "guys" courtesy of HBO / Boardwalk Empire .

SUMMERTIME

2013-06-21T21:52:00.000-07:00

Workingman's break time treat long before this summers must have

Watermelon flavor cream OREO'S

Vintage CANTRIPUM Two Pocket Selvedge Denim Jacket and Antique Flange Sign

2013-04-03T01:17:00.001-07:00

CANTRIPUM brand union made two pocket denim jacket manufactured by Hooker, Corser & Mitchell Co. of Brattleboro, VT.
This recent auction sale is constructed of narrow loom denim of which the selvedge edge can be seen on the back side of both right and left side button & button hole plackets. The closely spaced white stitching with a large count per inch contrasts nicely with the dark indigo denim. Additional details including wreath & star donut type buttons, Cantripum script loomed neck label and United Garment Workers of America union label likely date this jacket to the 1930's. A similar jacket seen here was featured in the Vintage Clothing Auction of Rin Tanaka's 4th Annual Kulture Recycling Show, Inspiration in February 2012.

The Cantripum Brand Overalls Coats and Khaki Goods flange sign seen at the top of this post was pulled from the web some time ago and helped in identifying the script label of this jacket.

THE N.& W. MANUFACTURING CO. Manufacturers of Union Made Overalls, Coats, Dungarees, Etc.

2013-04-01T22:54:00.000-07:00

Early 20th Century N & W invoice for goods and NOS Dungarees as seen in LIGHTNING MAGAZINE February 2013. From the vintageworkwear.com collection.

Photo credit: Tadashi Tawarayama

Markwardt's POLKA DOT "Your Daily Bread" Vintage Work Apron

2013-03-04T22:24:00.000-08:00

Vintage work apron for the MARKWARDT'S POLKA DOT BREAD. A bit of research reveals Markwardt's did business in the state of Missouri from the 1930's through the 1950's possibly a longer period of time.
This work or bakers apron is constructed of light colored convert or salt & pepper twill. The apron measures 34" in length and utilizes both sides of the the selvedge edge of the 36" width of fabric. One side of the selvedge edge is seen on the lower hem, the other side is located on the backside of the top of the apron. The upper portion of fabric is folded over and stitched horizontally along the selvedge edge which allows the neck tie enclosed inside the tunnel of folded over fabric to move from side to side or be removed if needed.
The apron features single stitch construction and bar-tack reinforcement and includes attached side ties made of salt & pepper twill. The heavy duty upper neck tie is constructed of grey cotton twill with the ends finished in a triangular fold with triangular stitching. A single patch type pocket also utilizes the finished selvedge edge for the pocket opening.

Vintage BIG YANK Chambray Work Shirt with Sweat Proof Pocket

2013-03-02T11:52:00.001-08:00

1950s era BIG YANK Union Made Sanforized Chambray Work Shirt featuring unique pocket sometimes referred to as a cigarette pocket. The BIG YANK sweat proof pocket design is a classic example of form follows function, having been used on various RELIANCE BIG YANK work shirts since the early 20th century. This rare example is deadstock or new old stock having never been tried on or worn let alone unpinned or opened.

Below the same model shirt with character and fade from years of wear and tear is seen for comparison

1950s era collar was significantly less pointed than its predecessor from the 1940's. This shirt also features signature BIG YANK diamond embossed buttons. Their thicker shape and raised detail were much easier for working men to button and unbutton.

Left side squared off sweat proof pocket with flap closure shares the same basic size and shape as the conventional right side pocket, setting this version apart from previous incarnations with their "big pocket and triangular topped little pocket" design.

Lower hem reinforcement gusset with exposed selvedge edge, again form following function

BIG YANK signature arched upper yoke with two layers of fabric. The dual layers add additional protection while carrying loads on the shoulder in addition to added life to the garment, another example of form following function.

About the only pet peeve is that The BIG YANK UNION MADE SANFORIZED neck label found on shirts from this era were attached with glue and have a tendency to become detached after many washings. Color variation between the deadstock and used versions of the same shirt can be seen in the photo above.

1950s OSH KOSH B'gosh UNION MADE SANFORIZED Indigo Denim Lace Back Dungarees

2013-02-27T14:56:00.000-08:00

SOLD via The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co.

Vintage 1950s SWEET-ORR Yarn-Dyed Flannel Work Shirt

2013-02-13T22:08:00.000-08:00

SWEET-ORR Union Made flannel work shirt constructed of heavy weight yarn-dyed SANFORIZED cotton with pointed collar, black convex two hole buttons and lower hem side reinforcement gussets.

Perfectly pointed collar.

Patch type chest pockets, each with a slightly different shape and plaid pattern. Interesting detail in that the front placket buttons only run about half the length of the shirt, likely due to the high-wasted style of pants worn during the same 1950s time period . The wider lower hem portion of the shirt back likely helped in keeping the shirt tucked in during physical work.

Lower hem side gussets.

Antique FINCK'S "DETROIT-SPECIAL" OVERALLS "Wear Like A Pigs Nose" Advertising Whistle... For Mike

2013-02-12T13:16:00.000-08:00

Today we share this FINCK'S UNION MADE "DETROIT-SPECIAL" OVERALLS advertising whistle in fond memory of Mike Hersh. His wonderful blog UNION-MADE set the bar high for vintage workwear advertising, promotional and print material. While we were proud of the fact that many of the pieces Mike so graciously shared were also in our collection, his knowledge, insight and obvious passion for the art and history set him (and UNION-MADE) apart and reminded us on so many occasions as to just why we love this stuff. Mike's frequent positive comments on this blog were always appreciated and provided food for the soul and fuel for the fire in the quest to find time and motivation in the busy schedule to post and share. I never got the chance to meet Mike up close and in person but truly considered him to be a friend, brother-in-arms and much valued member of our little blogging community. News this past weekend of Mike's passing hits hard and reminds us of just how precious life is and to appreciate the time and interaction we have with those whose light burns bright... we never know when that light will dim and no longer be with us.
R.I.P Mike and Godspeed.

Antique FINCK'S "LOUD AD" advertising whistle manufactured by F.G. Fawkes & Co. Chicago U.S.A. Patent in U.S. and Canada 1909 & 1910.

"A tune can be played, a Parrot or Rooster imitated, etc". After one hundred years give or take it still works!

Vintage Buddy Lee Union Made Child's Playsuit

2013-02-07T01:48:00.000-08:00

Awesome vintage Lee "Buddy Lee" two-tone denim child's playsuit with shawl collar and fold down front pockets recently found and shared by one of our friends. Hefty bar-tack reinforcements in red thread located at the bottom of the pocket and side opening, best seen in the fourth photo. This piece likely dates to the 1920s-1930s

Vintage Carhartt Brown Duck Winter Cap

2013-01-09T23:53:00.000-08:00

Deadstock Vintage Carhartt Union Made Brown Duck Winter Cap. Grainy dark brown SANFORIZED duck canvas with fold down ear flaps and flannel lining and to help keep you warm and toasty on those cold winter days. United Cap & Hatters Millinery Workers Union label can be seen hiding behind the original size tag. Originally priced at $4.25, likely dates to the 1960's based on the cursive script label. From the vintageworkwear.com collection.

BASKETBALL JONES... Cheech and Chong

2012-12-26T22:54:00.000-08:00

It's that time of the year when the seminal Cheech and Chong Christmas track Santa Claus And His Old Lady is in full rotation and our thoughts turn to another slice of classic old school humor.
The 1973 song and 1975 animated short film Basketball Jones by Cheech Marin and Tommy Chong hits the mark on so many levels, lets hope everyone "gets it" and enjoys it as much as we have for nearly 40 years. The fact that the film was produced at a time (pre MTV) when there were no traditional outlets for these types of music videos along with the "who's who" involved with both music and animation makes the Basketball Jones legacy all the more special. Some of the names who contributed will both surprise and impress. Enjoy!

Cheech Marin - Falseto Vocal as Tryone Shoelaces
Tommy Chong - Keyboards on original demo
George Harrison - Guitar
Klaus Vorman - Bass
Jim Keltner - Percussion
Carol King - Electric Piano
Nicky Hopkins - Piano
Tom Scott - Saxophone
Billy Preston - Organ
Darlene Love - Vocal
Michele Philips - Vocal
Ronnie Spector - Vocal
Lou Adler - Producer
Paul Gruwell - Animation

BEST WISHES FOR THE HOLIDAYS 2012

2012-12-25T20:16:00.003-08:00

VintageWorkwear, Parnelli Jones and Andy Granatelli wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Early 1900's CARHARTT Union Made Clothing Fabric Sample Mailer

2012-12-02T23:21:00.000-08:00

Turn of the century Hamilton Carhartt Manufacturing Co. illustrated Union Made Work Clothing brochure with fabric samples.
Cloth swatches include denim, heart print indigo dyed wabash, yarn dyed black cotton twill and a long time favorite pin-check referred to here as "highest grade and favorites in the south". The swatch of blue twill with grey and white twisted yarn warp or fill seen in the upper left corner is especially interesting. The taupe or olive colored twill seen in the lower right corner was used for New York state work uniforms. A similar color is found on vintage NYC workers uniform garments manufactured by Sweet-Orr.
In addition to the various fabrics, the illustration of the rail worker holding the oil can (seen in the middle of the fabric swatches) and THE TROLLY CAR-HEART BRAND Union Made Pants and Overalls box logo are also seen in various Carhartt Railroad Time Books dating from 1900 to 1907 and help to date this mailer to the early 1900's.

All photos courtesy of pakagr

Sundays Best... Vintage Workshirts

2012-11-26T00:14:00.001-08:00

A trio of super vintage work shirts recently brought to market dating from the early 1900's to the 1940's. These new old stock beauties will soon be to be on their way to new homes after decades of storage.

THE MOORE brand childs shirt with chin strap. Made from indigo dyed polka dot STIFEL cloth. Photos via graciemay0

MONITOR brand 7oz. cotton flannel work shirt. Photos via unpack

IRON ACE brand SANFORIZED grey chambray work shirt. Photos via unpack

THANKSGIVING 2012

2012-11-21T13:41:00.001-08:00

A couple of vintage Thanksgiving post cards featuring workwear and patriotic themes along with the prerequisite tom turkey including Anvils, Airships, Labor, Overalls, Trains and Stars & Bars Shield.
Wishing everyone a Happy Thanksgiving.

THE DUST BOWL...A Film by Ken Burns

2012-11-20T13:13:00.001-08:00

A young boy in dust storm, Oklahoma, 1936. Photo Arthur Rothstein

Last night while program guide surfing I was fortunate to come across part 2 of the THE DUST BOWL the fantastic new film by Academy Award nominated producer /director Ken Burns. Having already been a fan of previous Burns' work including 1994's Baseball and 2001's Jazz, I figured his treatment of this subject would be top notch. The film far surpassed my expectations and put into perspective the plight of the mid west farmers of the Depression Era 1930's, the man-made destruction and restoration of the southern Plains along with the migration west to California in search of a fresh start and new life.

The FSA photography of Walker Evans, Dorothea Lange along with the film The Grapes of Wrath have long been a source of enjoyment and inspiration and Burn's Dust Bowl documentary helps to share some of the history behind those iconic images and story.

Migrant man working on a headlight. Oklahoma, 1939. Photo Russell Lee

Migrant boys in auto. Oklahoma 1939. Photo Russell Lee

Migrant man looking up at billboard. Iowa, 1940. Photo John Vachon

We highly recommend you check your local listings or hit the link for the PBS rebroadcast schedule of THE DUST BOWL including The Great Plow Up (part 1) and Reaping the Whirlwind (part 2).

Browse the Library of Congress Farm Security Administration photos here.

Also check out our friend Matt Strickland's informative blog RivetHEAD for his photo of the day, many featuring Depression Era thru 1950's American workers.

Vintage 1920's CARHARTT Chore Coat

2012-11-19T01:27:00.000-08:00

This exemplary Carhartt chore coat described as dating to the 1920's was recently offered for sale by the fine folks at IN VINTAGE WE TRUST and even priced at just under five big ones, this beauty didn't last long.
Some of the killer details seen in the photos below include angular watch pocket with primitive single stitching and rarely seen early Carhartt Master Cloth label, heart shaped "change" or removable buttons with patent date of 1918, sleeve cuff rivet reinforcement and early United Garment Workers of America union label.
While many of the same type of coats from the same time period featured chin strap collar closures, photos and description of this coat did not reference this feature which was also know as dust proof collar or military style adjustable collar. A similar coat is seen inside the Carhartt Universal Time Book from 1935.

Carhartt Chore Coat photos via In Vintage We Trust

Carhartt Universal Time Book part of the VintageWorkwear.com collection

CARHARTT PARK, KENTUCKY...Near the Birthplace of Abraham Lincoln

2012-11-17T02:17:00.001-08:00

Hamilton Carhartt has long been a source of inspiration, for amongst other things his honorable business practices and treatment of both employees and his fellow man. His respect for President Abraham Lincoln is seen in these vintage Carhartt promotional pieces.

Vintage "CARHARTT PARK" Post Card honoring the "Back To The Land" factory located near Abraham Lincoln's birthplace. From the vintage workwear.com collection

Backside of the "CARHARTT PARK" Post Card seen above, honoring President Abraham Lincoln.
From the vintage workwear.com collection

Information on the CARHARTT PARK Overall Factory located in Kentucky, near the birthplace of Abraham Lincoln taken from a 1935 promotional Carhartt Universal Time Book. From the vintage workwear.com collection

Copper etching portrait of Lincoln and his GETTYSBURG ADDRESS taken from a promotional 1935 Carhartt Universal Time Book. From the vintage workwear.com collectio

See the film LINCOLN in theaters now, directed by Steven Spielberg and staring the mega talented and much respected Daniel Day-Lewis in the title role as Abraham Lincoln.

Vintage PENNEY'S BIG MAC Coveralls

2012-11-15T12:51:00.000-08:00

New old stock PENNEY'S BIG MAC one piece work suit with original flasher. This vintage suit features two tone •SANFORIZED• herringbone twill fabric and was customized with company name and employee chain stitching. Details include ACTION BACK shoulder pleating for full range of movement, double stitched SAIL CLOTH pockets, BAR TACK stitching at points of strain and TWO WAY ZIPPER. The PENNEY's BIG MAC front pocket label dates this coverall to the early 1950's.

Sold via The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co.

Antique Cat's Paw Rubber Heel Promotional Postcard

2012-10-31T11:01:00.000-07:00

1911 Cat's Paw Rubber Heel promotional postcard from the vintageworkwear.com collection

Promotional postcard for the FOSTER RUBBER CO., makers of Cat's Paw Rubber Heels.
USPS cancellation stamp dates this one hundred and one year old postcard to Oct. 18 1911.

Postcard features an image of what was claimed to be the world's largest Black Cat. The cat appeared every afternoon and evening at the New England Industrial and Educational Exposition and was used to advertise Cat's Paw Non-Slip Rubber Heels. The Cat was operated by man power, and the eyes feature electric lights that could be flashed at will.
Cat's Paw salesman Mr. Noll is seen standing along side the cat to provide size & scale.

Happy Halloween.

Vintage BIG BEN Salt & Pepper Convert Cloth Work Jacket

2012-10-17T21:31:00.001-07:00

The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co. had the pleasure of hooking up customer and San Fernando Valley resident Kelly with this vintage 1960s era BIG BEN brand work jacket at The Rose Bowl Flea Market this past Sunday. A simple cossack style short jacket constructed of salt & pepper twist twill cotton fabric (originally referred to as convert cloth) with quilted liner and Talon zipper that will be right at home as part of Kelly's big rig working uniform.
It's always great to see a favorite piece matched up with an appreciative and knowledgeable buyer; it's precisely these type of customers that bring a smile and remind us of just why we work hard to share our passion for vintage workwear.

BLUE BELL / BIG BEN / Wrangler company history.

1897 - 20-year old C.C. Hudson leaves Spring Hill Farm in Williamson County, Tennessee seeking fortune in the emerging textile town of Greensboro, North Carolina. He finds work in an overall factory sewing on buttons for 25 cents a day.
1904 - Hudson's workplace closes. He and a few others buy several sewing machines from the closing company. C.C. Hudson and his brother Homer form the Hudson Overall Company, operating from a loft over Coe Brothers Grocery on South Elm Street in Greensboro.
1919 - Sales of Hudson overalls are booming. The company moves to a larger headquarters and changes its name to Blue Bell Overall Company.
1926 - Big Ben Manufacturing of Kentucky (Est. 1915) purchases Blue Bell for $585,000. The name of the merged companies remains Blue Bell; headquarters remain in Greensboro.
1936 - Blue Bell introduces Super Big Ben Overalls, featuring 100% Sanforized fabric that reduces shrinkage to less than 1%, setting a new standard for the industry.
1947 - Blue Bell Inc. files U.S. federal trademark registration for Big Ben on Oct. 7.

VINTAGE HEADLIGHT OVERALLS PATENTED BIB POCKET

2012-10-11T21:37:00.000-07:00

Vintage HEADLIGHT Overalls with patented bib pocket design

Talon brand brass heavy duty zipper opens to reveal large pocket located behind conventional bib patch type pockets

Close up of the right side patch pocket watch pocket opening shows denim red line selvedge edging

Proprietary bib pocket found on vintage HEADLIGHT Union Made Overalls. Pocket design, Talon zipper and HEADLIGHT loomed label most likely date this pair of overalls to the 1940's era, possibly as late as the 1950's. This particular pocket design was filed by inventor Oscar Berman on November 24th 1936 and was patented on April 18th 1939. The design provided four different pockets located on the front bib portion of the overalls including right and left side patch pockets, watch pocket (separated from the right patch pocket by sail cloth not seen in photo) and the patented larger pocket located behind the patch pockets and accessed via the zippered opening. Patent information is seen below.

QUINTRON AND MISS PUSSYCAT and the DRUM BUDDY: TREME Season Three, Episode 23

2012-10-01T01:50:00.000-07:00

HBO's most excellent BOARDWALK EMPIRE is a no-brainer for most folks who check this blog but the New Orleans based drama TREME stands tall as part two of HBO's powerful Sunday night one two punch. Much respect to series creator David Simon for his music heavy take on the culture and flavor of this neighborhood in The Big Easy as they rebuild post Katrina. Some favorite artists and musicians who have appeared on the show include Alan Toussaint, Dr John, Elvis Costello and The Rebirth Brass Band.
Another artist who is new to me and whose raucous live performance in Sunday nights episode 23 had me immediately both listening & looking for a name is QUINTRON AND THE PUSSYCAT.
The attention grabbing instrument that QUINTRON is seen playing at their Halloween gig is his self made DRUM BUDDY, a 4 oscillator, light activated, mechanically rotating synthesiser/drum machine. This contraption that could be described as part Drum Machine, part Synth, part Scratch Turntable and part Theremin. The ignition switch and key to turn it on and off is also a neat touch. The fact that Laurie Anderson and Nels Cline (two unique artists who over the years have provided much enjoyment and command much respect) own two of the only ten units made provides the proverbial icing on the cake.