Photos Tell The Story.

2009-12-09T22:58:00.000-05:00

We are back with more photos showing the results of what the weather elements can cause. The media blasting has removed the softer weathered wood leaving the log surface very irregular along with the old caulking. Notice the log ends. These will be sanded down to a smooth surface as well as the knots. All of this can be easily prevented with observation and a little maintenance. The windows can be ordered with a special depth sill or modified on the job to drain water away from the log surface to avoid decay problems.

Things are slowing down with the Holidays approaching not to mention the consistent rain delays. Please check back and maybe we will have made some progress.

Rain Delay

2009-11-12T23:56:00.000-05:00

Well folks the rain has put a damper on the restoration.. We hope to be back to work this weekend. Thanks for following..

Restoration Continues

2009-11-09T23:01:00.027-05:00

The restoration project continues with a review in new pictures and an update on the progress in log prep and caulking techniques. As you can see there is quite a difference in the condition of the original finish in the upper gable area and the section of logs below. The removal of the finish with the media basting not only removed the old stain, but some of the weathered softer wood of the logs leaving the log surface very uneven. This required grinding and sanding the log surface to reach good solid wood to achieve consistent stain color and lasting effects of the whole finishing process. Notice the two replacement logs just under the gable windows and the shorter logs to the right of the chimney. The area to the lower right of the chimney also shows some of the log area that has just been sanded with an angle grinder. We use an angle grinder for best results especially when sanding down open knots until tight and other blemishes. Once we had made some appreciable progress with log prep we wanted to test the caulking technique.

First we used compressed air to blow off all the log surfaces of the area we plan to caulk to remove the sanding dust. We then wet the logs with a low pressure sprayer (garden sprayer) filled with water. While still wet, we use a low pressure sprayer to apply a "Ready To Use" borate solution. This premixed borate solution will prevent wood ingesting insects from attacking the logs. The solution also prevents fungus spores from forming and multiplying in the wood crevices which is the beginning of wood decay. The "Ready To Use" solution is also environmentally safe. Once the borate solution has dried we can proceed with testing the caulking technique.
We are using Energy Seal brand of caulking material by Permachink. About the only thing Energy Seal has in common with conventional caulking is the tube that it's packaged in. Energy Seal is high a performance sealant that SEALS. Energy Seal is designed to adhere to the log surface and remain flexible. This allows for expansion and contraction of the logs without the sealant pulling away from the logs.
Before we could start the Energy Seal caulking we insert a backer rod in between the logs. The backer rod is a closed cell foam that's available in various diameters. The backer rod actually works in conjunction with the Energy Seal to seal the joint between the logs. The Energy Seal does not adhere to the backer rod just the log surface.
We are using a 3/8" diameter rod in this application due to average crack size between the logs. Using a painters tool or dull putty knive, the backer rod is pushed about 3/8" to 1/2" into the crack between the logs (above). In some cases the crack will be too small for the backer rod so we will continue caulking without rod at that point. In some cases the crack is too wide for the backer to fit snuggly. When this occurs we twist the backer rod together (this is our own technique) and insert it to the same depth as above. This Energy Seal system not only seals out the elements, it accepts the stain color giving the log home a consistent finished appearance.
Caulking is an art. Don't rush it. Fill the log joint with caulking moving the caulk gun slowly. Speed will follow as you develop your technique. Don't exceed 6 feet in length of Energy Seal. It may start to skin over and won't remain workable. After a length of caulking is applied. Use a spray bottle (household cleaning product spray bottle) filled with water. Mist the just caulked area. Wet a small #6 artist brush gently brush the now wet caulk (above). Work on your technique here too. Have shop rags handy and a small pail of water (coffee can works great) for occasional clean-up and wetting the artist brush.
Check back later for more detailed photos and info on restoring this log home. Thanks for visiting.

Restoring a Log Home

2009-11-05T21:58:00.008-05:00

Maintaining a log home is easy.......but ignoring the maintenance requirements can pose many problems that could have been prevented. I am currently restoring a log home that needed attention for sometime. Fortunatly only a few logs needed replacing. Most of the time only the face of the log needs to be removed and a replacement half log is sized and fitted into place. The old finish (ABOVE) is removed with a sand blaster type of equipment using glass beads or even corncob media (BELOW). If the wood is badly weathered as the case here, the logs will need to be sanded with an angle grinder with an 80 to 100 grit sanding disc. It's a slow, messy, dusty job, but to achive the proper finish you have to prepare the surface first. Remember a paint job is only as good as the prep work. The same is true here. Check back later when I'll cover in more detail surface prep and caulking.

VIRGINIA APPALACHIAN LOG HOMES

Photos Tell The Story.

Rain Delay

Restoration Continues

Restoring a Log Home