Visit Chile

El Colorado Hints and Tips for Skiing

2008-07-23T08:55:00.001-07:00

Photo title:Camino a El Colorado - Chile
via Flickr

Most skiers will stay above the base lodge at Villa Colorado. Below this point the trails are mostly rated beginner except adjacent to the Embudo lift where slalom training courses are often set. The highlight of the mountain is still the Silla Colorado which ascends to the top of the mountain. It is the only lift to reach the summit and often closes in inclement weather conditions. The double-griped chairs bounce radically over each of the 23 erector-towers, but the antiquated chair still runs almost as fast as the modern triple chairs that parallel it.

Beginner skiers will find the best trails alongside the Los Zorros T-Bars although Colorado Chico, Pinguino, and the Novicios Farellones lifts provide plenty of alternatives. The El Condor runs are wide, groomed trails with a consistent pitch which will appeal to intermediate skiers. Advanced skiers should try the Cono Este run for a long and steep pitch with a broad view of Valle Nevado.

Expert skiers will find more excitement at El Colorado than at any of the neighboring resorts. Two areas should be investigated. The first is low on the mountain, just above the lowest beginner lifts. Here, the narrow and vertical Corredores chutes and walls are perched side by side between the Embudo lift and the major chute called Falsoembudo (false funnel). Access this cliff area from the top of either the Embudo lift for the lower, shorter drops, or from Zorros for longer runs and Falsoembudo. If the snow is too thin at those lower elevations, explore the chutes to the skier's right of Cono Este. Do not go too far right as these chutes soon fade into unskiable cliffs.

Good moguls are found at the top of Cornisa although they are often interrupted with traverse trails and human obstacles. The best powder at El Colorado is found in the late opening but sheltered Cono Este which also closes early (4.00pm).

There is less backcountry access from El Colorado's lifts than at either of its neighbors. An area which could be explored is the long cliff area between Cono Este and the Embudo lift. This region can be thoroughly scouted from Valle Nevado's access road where a car could be parked for escape. The chutes and bowls are controlled by Valle Nevado's avalanche protection team since many of the snowfields threaten the road.

Geography of El Colorado - Ski Resort

2008-07-23T08:53:00.001-07:00

Photo title:Colorado
via Flickr

El Colorado is a red, cone-shaped mountain with south-facing slopes. It is bordered on the south by Farellones village, on the west by La Parva, on the north by Valle Nevado, and on the east by a long cliff-band that stretches from Cono Este to the base of the Embudo lift.

The western slopes that face La Parva are exposed to the prevailing winds and are thus undeveloped and usually rocky. The deepest snow is found in the Cono Este area which lies in the lee of the mountain. Excellent views of the surrounding ski areas and Santiago's smog blanket can be enjoyed from the upper slopes.

Ski El Colorado - Chile Resort

2008-07-23T08:51:00.001-07:00

Photo title:Last Light
via Flickr

El Colorado is Chile's biggest and most popular ski area with nearly twice the number of lifts as its nearest competitor. It is exceeded in size on the continent only by Cerro Catedral at Bariloche in Argentina. The mountain complex has the best ski runs in Chile with plenty of space for beginners and challenging terrain for experts. El Colorado is like Mammoth Mountain in California: both are real skiers' mountains which receive plenty of snow, and both are popular with the young, local skiers who spread throughout the vast and sunny slopes on winter weekends.

There are two base areas at the ski resort. The first, on the eastern edge of the town of Farellones, is used by beginner skiers, tobogganists, and non-skiing visitors. Villa Colorado is the more modern base area several kilometers past Farellones. It is here, at the main base lodge called El Parador, that most of El Colorado's skiers begin their day.

La Parva Adventure Skiing

2008-07-23T08:12:00.001-07:00

Photo title:View from La Parva slope
via Flickr

The most distinctive chute of any South American ski area taunts skiers from its high perch north of the ski area. La Chiminea is one of the world's most perfectly shaped chutes and is something of a rite of passage for the local youths. The typically firm windpack snow surface is sunken below high rock walls. La Chiminea is accessed by hiking a short and easy ridge left of the top of the new Aguilas chairlift. Ascend this ridge until high enough to traverse on a flat above a multitude of corniced chutes which loom over the Manantiales road.

Past La Chiminea is a steep, south-facing wall called La Cara. Another option is to head right from the corniced plateau mentioned above and continue up the ridge. There are two big bowl systems in this area, the farthest of which is called Galerias del Pintor. This can feed inattentive skiers into Valle Nevado. Check at the restaurant at 3,100m for more information or to tie in with locals headed for the area.

La Parva Ski Tips and Strategy

2008-07-23T08:10:00.001-07:00

Photo title:Cordillera de los Andes
via Flickr

La Parva has a longitudinal orientation. Many runs will thus be accessed with more than one lift. Local skiers shun the comfortable chairlifts for the speedier and less crowded poma lifts which seem to shoot off in every direction on the mountain.

Beginners can ski undisturbed at the northern base of the ski area below the village. Intermediates seem to enjoy the super-wide Las Flores bowl which boasts a consistent drop for long, cruising, GS turns. Advanced skiers should try the south-facing bowl under the return traverse from the Tortolas chairlift. This is probably La Parva's best mogul and powder area. Experts are advised to venture out on the Manantiales traverse and ski the Mirador and Pared areas which then feed into the Super-G terrain of Barros Negros.

La Parva Geography - Ski Chile

2008-07-23T08:08:00.001-07:00

Photo title:august 2007 santiago snow 10.jpg
via Flickr

La Parva's lifts ascend a narrow, rolling slope between the valley which separates it from the cone of El Colorado and the flat, featureless, and snowy plain to the north. La Parva was the highest ski area in Chile until Valle Nevado accessed the Tres Puntas ridge in 1989. With five lifts above 3,100m (10,170ft), La Parva has had several late seasons with closing dates in mid-December in 1983 and 1984. Under poor snow conditions, the area operates from the 3,100m level which is reached via the Alpha quad chair. La Parva translates to "The Haystack" which is the name of the peak that overlooks the ski area.

Ski La Parva - Santiago Ski Resort

2008-07-23T08:07:00.001-07:00

Photo title:Centro de ski La Parva
via Flickr

La Parva is the northernmost and smallest of Santiago's three ski resorts. The village climbs parallel to the lower slopes and has limited tourist services. La Parva is reminiscent of a small village in the European Alps but is really Chile's answer to Aspen. The ski area is like a private club for Chile's wealthy families, most of whom maintain a second (or third) home in the village. Like Aspen Highlands, the ski area climbs a long ridge. With the completion in 1990 of the Las Tortolas chairlift, skiers are now able to traverse easily into Valle Nevado in addition to El Colorado.

Las Aguilas is the quad chair that's installed on the north side of the resort in the Barros Negros area. This was a much needed addition and eased access to and from much of the adventure skiing in the sector. An elegant but small restaurant called La Pirea was also added at the top of this lift. Many of the base facilities have also been remodeled and upgraded.

The La Marmita restaurant was resurrected in the last decade, at the base of the resort giving La Parva three excellent luncheon alternatives.

You can also now purchase a joint lift ticket combining access to both La Parva and Valle Nevado. Like Whistler-Blackcomb, this provides a nice additional value for your money and gives you more choice during a long trip.

Ski La Parva Official Website

Ski Season in Chile

2008-07-17T03:40:00.001-07:00

Photo title:Cerro Aconcagua
via Flickr

Of course, being south of the Equator, ski season in Chile is the opposite of ski season in North America. This is the same as Argentina and New Zealand.

Generally, the seasons are as follows.

High season: (mid July to end of July)
Middle season: (beginning of July to mid July) and (end of July to end of August)
Low season: (mid June to early July) and (end of August to early October)

Most resorts open in mid-June and close by the middle of October.

Portillo Ski Resort Geography

2008-07-17T02:18:00.001-07:00

Photo title:Portillo, la laguna del Inca
via Flickr

Portillo sits in the heart of the southern Andes a mere 40km (25 miles) from the base of Cerro Aconcagua, the highest point in the Western Hemisphere. Portillo translates to "narrow pass" which aptly describes the main corridor between Chile and Argentina. The pass was first crossed by mules and horses and later by the Trans-Andean international train, reputed to be one of the most spectacular rail journeys in the world. Once the international road was built, the train service became uneconomical and obsolete and ended in the mid-1970s.

The hotel was built at 2,890m (9,480ft), 1km below the Chilean customs station at Los Libertadores and 6km from the Argentine border. It is 69km (43 miles) from the bottom of the pass at Los Andes and 149km (93 miles) from Santiago. Many guests also come from Mendoza in Argentina. Note that this remote location means that there is nowhere else to stay or eat in the region except at Portillo's own facilities.

Storms approach from the southern Pacific Ocean. Suddenly cooled by the extreme elevation and unable to penetrate the Andean barrier, the heavy clouds dump loads of snow throughout the area. The weather conditions are either clear and sunny or snowing and blowing with few days finding a compromise. The high altitude dryness insures light snow and no rain and provides ideal conditions for making artificial snow. In 1991, Portillo thus installed South America's only snowmaking system. The resort may operate weekends outside of the normal season if snow conditions permit.

The landscape of the region is completely treeless and has a barren, lifeless appearance. Although you are unlikely to see the small foxes that sniff about at night, their tracks are found everywhere in the virgin snow. Andean condors are seen daily soaring along the cliffs and chutes of Portillo.

The Laguna del Inca is one of the very few lakes in this remote region of the Andes. The lake is so named because the Inca Illi Yunqui is said to have buried his princess there after she was tragically killed on a hunting trip. According to the legend, at that moment the lake's water "turned emerald, dyed by the color of the eyes that the son of the Sun could no longer awaken." It is also said that on certain still winter nights you can hear the low moans of the heartbroken Inca.

Portillo Adventure and Nordic Skiing

2008-07-17T02:17:00.001-07:00

Photo title:Avalanche at Portillo Ski Resort
via Flickr

Portillo has the continent's best avalanche warning system. There is a flagpost in front of the hotel's pool on which the current danger level is indicated with either a red, yellow, or blue flag (explained on a large board in the hotel). In addition, rope and sign closures are often painstakingly set for skiers' protection, an uncommon service in South America.

Many of the local skiers seem to favor the steep hikes in the chutes above the Va et Vients. While a great view of Aconcagua can be had from above the Roca Jack, there are better places to ski that don't require so much exertion for so few turns. The best examples are the lake descents from the Va et Vients. Of the two, Condor provides a slightly longer vertical drop, drier snow (especially in the morning), and greater variety. Conditions are optimum when the lake is frozen and someone has already "broken trail" back to the lifts. On the Roca Jack side, return to Conejo via a traverse across the face of the last knoll above the lake surface.

Another excellent option is the Cancha del Tren. This can be spotted and the route planned by looking right while riding the Juncalillo chairlift. It is the obvious snowfield that fans out to the road with the old railroad tunnel crossing the middle (big air). Access this run with a high traverse from the Condor lift to a point below the border checkpoint where the highway is crossed. At the bottom, cross the road again to return to the Juncalillo chair.

Because of its high elevation and steep terrain, Portillo is not a good place for cross-country skiing. Avalanches frequently threaten the few areas where nordic skiing might be possible. The only terrain really apt for this activity is the frozen lake surface or the area around the Los Libertadores customs station.

Portillo Skiing Tips and Strategy

2008-07-17T02:16:00.001-07:00

Photo title:Portillo Ski Resort
via Flickr

Portillo's slopes are split into two unintegrated halves. To access the Juncalillo (west) side, you need to skate over to the base of the new quad chair which will take you to the base of the Roca Jack. The Plateau chair on the east side provides the easiest and quickest access to skiing though. It loads just a few meters from the hotel and ascends to the top of a wide bench under foreboding cliffs.

The recommended way to ski Portillo is to start on the Juncalillo side in the morning. The dawn illuminates the upper east-facing slopes of the Roca Jack first, softening the pistes with the early morning sun. After lunch, explore the Plateau side as it softens and warms.

The best beginner run is Canarios. It is close enough to the hotel for security but far enough away that less successful efforts are not visible to the critical sundeck crowd. Intermediates will find their greatest pleasure on Juncalillo which rolls over shelves and through valleys. The Los Túneles section of the run passes over two long tunnels which the government had to build over the road because the ski run "was here first." Powder and corn snow are handily tested on the sides of this run before venturing above to some of the more advanced runs.

The clear favorite at Portillo for advanced skiers is the Roca Jack. In the heart of winter, the Roca Jack is surrounded by feathery new snow. On a good spring day, the north side will have glittering corn snow, the middle slushy bumps, and the south side firm, dry wind pack. Another recommended advanced run is Garganta, a steep chute that opens into a wide bowl north of the Plateau chair.

Expert skiers will need a full week to explore Portillo's vertical secrets. The greatest opportunities lie to the south of the Roca Jack. A high traverse left (away from the lake) leads to a series of four major ridges where numerous possibilities of varying width and pitch await. Skiers who are lulled into believing there's no more untracked powder simply are not looking hard enough.

See the resort page here: Ski Portillo

Ski Portillo - Chile Ski Resort

2008-07-17T02:15:00.001-07:00

Photo title:Lake at Ski Portillo Chile
via Flickr

Portillo probably provides the most comfortable and relaxed ski experience in South America. With nearly all the guests lodged together in the grand Hotel Portillo, you really get to know your fellow skiers, and most people who frequent Portillo tell you they return year after year for this congenial atmosphere. And, since the resort is owned and operated by North Americans, communication for English speakers is easier here than at any other South American ski area.

Portillo's greatest asset is, however, outside. Crisp, sparkling days are the rule with Andean condors soaring in the crystalline blue skies and skiers floating in thigh-deep styrofoam-snow between pointy, shadowed rock outcroppings. When the glassy Laguna del Inca isn't frozen, it perfectly reflects this pristine scene as if the spectacular sight needed repeating.

Portillo seems small on arrival because the ski area is split by the hotel complex and because the lifts don't even approach the surrounding 4,300m (14,000ft) summits. The highest lift-serviced points on both sides are about half way up steep avalanche chutes and are reached by Portillo's own lift, the Va et Vient. The best skiing is found by sneaking over ridges and around corners on high traverses from the tops of these surface lifts. It is here, in the snow pillows, wind pack, and corn deposits of Portillo's upper slopes, that Portillo justly earns praise from skiers around the world.

Far from being a tired and stodgy resort, Portillo has been continually upgraded by owner Henry Purcell over the years. In the early '90s, the grand old hotel (built by the state-owned railroad in the 1940s) was completely remodeled and Juncallilo was converted into a triple chair. In 1995, two new lifts were added: a quadruple chair in the Las Lomas beginner area, and a surface lift to ease the return to the hotel after skiing the Juncalillo side. In 1998, a new quad chairlift was added. It carries skiers from the hotel on the Juncalillo side to the base of Roca Jack. This chair solves an old access problem and replaces two old poma lifts.

Portillo also remains the king of snowmaking in South America. The million dollar investment insures an early July opening and draws from the clear waters of the adjacent lake. Their modern system covers over 30 acres of ski terrain on the Plateau side of the mountain. In this season's dry weather, this system makes Portillo the only resort with reliable skiing throughout the year.

See the resort page here: Ski Portillo

Wine Train & Wine tasting in Chile

2008-07-16T16:42:00.001-07:00

Photo title:Red Wine Grapes
via Flickr

It's very easy and feasible to do a wine tasting day trip or overnight trip from Santiago. The roads are very nice in Chile - you'll have no problem and they're nothing like the awful roads you read about in Bolivia where accidents happen.

There's also a wine train from Santa Cruz. Be careful that you check in advanced with your hotel, as it only runs on weekends in the low season.

In the Colchagua Valley the Vina La Playa Hotel is most highly recommended for it's central location among wineries and a vineyard. The drive is about forty minutes from Santa Cruz and there are wineries along the way.

Also, a day trip to the Maipo Valley is very feasible as well. You can get a van tour to handle multiple vineyards in a day, which makes things a bit easier so you don't have to worry about driving drunk.

Wine Regions of Chile

2008-07-16T16:34:00.001-07:00

Photo title:White Wine Grapes
via Flickr

See the wine regions of Chile:
Wine regions of Chile, from Stephen Paul on Flickr.

Google Maps Chile

2007-09-15T18:00:00.001-07:00

L1000016_flickr.jpg
Originally uploaded by Pablo H

Google Maps is now available for Chile!

Free Chile Pictures on Flickr

2006-09-24T23:55:00.000-07:00

hdr toribio

You can find tons of interesting pictures of Chile, for free, on Flickr. Check it out - it's an amazing site:
Chile pictures

Airport Shuttle in Santiago

2006-08-03T15:02:00.000-07:00

The best way to get from the airport downtown is a private taxi. This should cost around $10 or so - it's a good deal.

When you go through Passport Control, you should see a kiosk on your left for Turbus. You should go there and either take a Turbus or use TransVIP, which shares the booth. TransVip is a hair cheaper than Turbus and both are good quality.

http://www.transvip.net is the TransVip website - note that their online booking doesn't always work. You can book via email w/ them though.

Just be sure to avoid the assertive taxi drivers everywhere! They're persistent.

Santiago Hotel Choices

2006-08-03T14:46:00.000-07:00

Santiago nocturno

Santiago has great hotel choices - among the best in Latin America.

In the less-than-$100 range, the Four Points (by Sheraton) in el Centro is among your best choices for a good property. The Sheraton Inn is a little further along the beaten path but is also nice and has periodic deals bringing it < $100.

On the pricier side, in Las Condes, a little more upscale neighborhood and business district, you'd do well at the Hyatt Regency or the San Cristobal Towers, both of which are usually < $200. If you're going to splurge, the best in town is the Ritz-Carlton but it usually goes for well into the $300's.

Weekend in Santiago

2006-07-01T19:44:00.000-07:00

Some suggestions for a weekend in Santiago

Day 1 afternoon - Concha y Toro winery tour on a day-trip from Santiago

Days 2 and 3 - Wineries to the south like Montes and Cas Lapostolle. Santa Cruz hotel is a good choice to stay

Day 4 - Vina del Mar and Valparaiso on a day trip from Santiago

Welcome

2006-07-01T19:41:00.000-07:00

Bienvenidos a Santiago