Voyages of Sea Trek

Guatemala

2024-01-22T16:04:00.001-05:00

Beginning at the river’s mouth at the semi-sheltered Bay of Amatique, off the southern tip of Belize, the gorge offers lush green vegetation of teak, mahogany and palm trees covering the high, shear cliffs and extending right down to the water’s edge. Along the riverbanks can be found howler monkeys, toucans, black cormorants and blue egrets. Watching the natives, including young children, paddling their hand-made log canoes called Cayucos up the river against the currents made us imagine a time long ago. The water depths can reach from 20 feet to 80 feet all along this area except for a hairpin turn about three miles into the gorge; it is deep but you must hug the turn so close in that you can almost reach out and grab the tree branches.

Once you are out of the gorge you find some very large and expensive homes alongside some modest, almost primitive local native dwellings. This can be quite a contrast for first-time visitors. Like any other main highway, there are also several restaurants along this stretch of the river, and about six miles in you can find a hot sulfur spring at the river’s edge. Actually, you will smell it before you see it. There are no signs marking the spot, but you might find a local panga or two tied to the trees with tourists enjoying a soak. An ever-present mist on the water also gives you a hint as to its location. The GPS position is 15.46.44N and 088.48.69W. You can anchor nearby if you decide to make a stop and two good restaurants can also be found right on the water’s edge nearby.

Just as you are leaving the lower stretch of the river and just before you enter El Golfete, you will find Cayo Grande to starboard. Behind the cay is a lovely and well-protected anchorage, which you may have yourself, and there is a restaurant there for dinner (reservations recommended). The local businesses — and most everyone else along the river — monitors VHF Ch. 68.

As soon as you enter El Golfete a series of small bays stretch out to port. The last bay is affectionately known as Gringo Bay because it had been settled early on by a few hearty Americans who built modest homes on the bay accessible only by boat. Cruisers familiar with the area will tell you to stop in Gringo Bay and visit with a local fixture known simply as Jennifer.

Always welcome

Jennifer and her husband came here several years ago and ran their charter boat in and out of the river. They bought a piece of property from a native family who wanted to move inland, so they built a house on the bay that sits out over the river. The husband sought another lifestyle and moved on, and the charter boat is gone, but Jennifer is still there. She makes her living selling her artwork as well as coconut oil and bee honey from her own hives. There are several moorings in the bay just off her house where she baby-sits boats for owners who go away for extended periods of time. She has some tropical gardens behind the house and large ponds, where she raises freshwater Australian Lobsters. She also sells both fresh and smoked roballo, which is a close relative to the snook, whenever it is available. To us, Jennifer is the embodiment of the original frontier woman. Most cruisers make a stop here coming into and going out of the river. Gringo Bay is about seven miles up river from Livingston. Close friends of ours in the United States had asked us to stop in and visit Jennifer since they knew her well and had not seen her for several years. We only stopped for an overnight and left the following day around noon with a promise to Jennifer to return and spend more time.

Fitting in

El Golfete is 10 miles long with water depths of 10 to 18 feet, depending on rainfall — almost up to its shores in most areas. There are many beautiful anchorages and the scenery in almost any direction is stunning. This is the home of Biotopo Chocon Machacas, which is a manatee reserve that covers the entire bay. The reserve also encompasses some 18,000 acres of land on the north side of the bay. Their purpose is to preserve the mangrove swamps and wildlife in the area. You may land your dinghy and visit anytime. The self-guided nature trails are a great way to spend a day. Expect to be asked to make a small donation of about five quetzals, or about 25 cents. The visit is well worth the price. You can virtually pull off to any side of the bay and drop anchor or settle in behind a few small cays along the northwestern shores depending on wind conditions. We rushed through here initially but returned later to spend some quality time.

Continuing across El Golfete you soon enter what is known as the Marina District. The river narrows and marinas are along both sides of the river. Unfortunately, this is about as far as most boats get after they arrive. If you arrive after mid-August, space at the marinas becomes hard to find.

Don’t expect to find U.S.-style marinas here. Almost all are set up for a Mediterranean mooring, or Med-moor, type of a tie up and not conducive to coming and going frequently. They are designed to cram as many boats as possible side by side. The process of getting in and out usually involves a day or two notice, a small boat or two to assist, and retying all your neighbors once you are out. There are no finger piers or pilings, with few exceptions, and the outer tie consists of lines run to something under the water. We could not find anyone to clarify for us just what that something is. Then you are tied in a crisscross fashion to your neighbors on both sides. Plenty of fenders are also required since, depending on where you are, the boat traffic and wakes can be constant and at times excessive. Since we had not been in a marina since Belize City we decided to stop and do some boat cleaning, laundry and a few other projects that are better done at the dock with electricity and water available.

We soon found out that the rates at the marinas here are so cheap we would spend almost as much for fuel, charging batteries and heating water than we would to stay at the marina. So we took the plunge and paid for a month even though our plans were to only be here for a few weeks. But as every day went by it became more and more obvious that a few weeks were not going to be enough, and our stay would most assuredly be longer. We chose a marina that was recommended to us by our friends who were already there. There are several marinas in different locations along this stretch of the river to choose from, and the prices and amenities can vary quite a bit.

A walkabout ashore

After we settled in and became familiar with our new locations, we set out to do some investigating of the area. Our marina sits directly under the large bridge that crosses the Rio Dulce between Fronteras and the small settlement of El Relleno. This bridge was built by the U.S. Army Corp of Engineers and completed in 1980. It stands 90 feet over the river. The mailing address for our marina literally translates from Spanish to “under the bridge.” An Internet café is directly across the street as well as the popular Reeds Tienda, a small grocery store that also stocks paint, boat parts and a variety of other products. If they don’t carry it, chances are good they will be able to get it for you in a short period of time. Chici has been the owner and operator for many years and most of the employees are family members.

The walk over the bridge to Fronteras on the other side of the river is a good workout and we learned early on not to do it in the middle of the day when the temperature can be brutal. You can also dinghy across the river and tie up at Bruno’s Marina or the town dock. Bruno’s is the preferred place to leave the dinghy since security can be an issue at the town dock, and the traffic from local boats coming and going can be damaging to small dinghies. This river is a main thoroughfare, and most facilities and homes are only accessible by water. At times of the day the boat traffic can remind you of being on a liquid freeway.

Pistols and livestock

Fronteras is small backwater town that at times reminded us of the Wild West. At first we were a little unnerved to see many locals packing pistols in holsters on their belts. But it soon became the norm and we accepted it. The town is on one of the main roads through Guatemala and there is often a lot of traffic on its two narrow lanes. This includes large 18-wheelers, cars and the ever-present cattle trucks. We were warned early on not to stand behind the cattle trucks or the baptism you might receive could be extremely unpleasant. Many times we were witness to that, and it became obvious whenever these trucks passed through town.

Along the main street there are a number of tiendas or small grocery stores, restaurants, open-air produce markets and variety stores selling toys, pots and pans, and a number of different items. Except for the middle of the day, the town is bustling with people, and every shop and market is crowded. On certain days of the week the produce is brought in fresh and on those days the town becomes even more crowded. You can also find a couple of hardware stores as well as pharmacies and repair facilities in the town, but most are very basic.

They also have a few banks in town complete with armed guards standing inside and outside the front door, and a small room where you can check your gun before entering. After you complete your business your gun is then returned to you on the way out. This is a different world and lifestyle than we have been exposed to for most of our lives but we found it more fascinating than fearful.

In addition, there is a bus station that is a central hub for travel throughout the interior of Guatemala, and to Mexico and Honduras. Later we would use the bus system to explore and further sample what this wonderful country has to offer.

All of this and we have only been in the country for two days. Our heads were spinning, and with the endless possibilities before us it wasn’t long until we wondered out loud just how long we were really going to stay here. By the end of this day we were exhausted and happy and looking forward to what tomorrow would bring.

Haul Out on the Rio Dulce

2024-01-22T16:03:00.000-05:00

Our original plan was to come in to the Rio Dulce for about two weeks. We also wanted to do three boat projects while we were here for those couple of weeks. The outboard was not running right so we wanted a mechanic to look at it. The depth sounder, which is an important piece of equipment, was acting up again and probably needed replacement. So if we had to haul out to replace the transducers we might as well paint the bottom, since it has been two years since the last time. We also discovered cracks in the corners of the windshield where it had been bent. We were concerned that they would spread and we would loose the integrity of the whole thing. So we wanted to build a strong support frame for the entire windshield.

Getting the parts and finally getting the outboard repaired only took 6 weeks. So far we have had two people LOOK at the windshield job but not a lick of work on it yet. We began the process of having the boat hauled about a month ago. There are two places to haul here on the river. One is the new Ram Marine on Shell Bay and the other is Abel's on the river itself near to old Spanish forts. We chose Abel's but this is not your typical yard that most are used to in the States.

Abel hauls your boat on a rail system. He has three, side by side that offer a wide range of adjustment for just about any size or shape of vessel, either power or sail. ( UPDATE, July 12, 2010, a new 85 ton travel lift and dry storage space is now available. ) We began by setting an "appointment" for hauling us. We were told that would be in about a week. Others had told us it would be smart to check on the status on a daily basis. This proved to be a daily exercise for us for weeks. One of the boats that was already hauled was an extremely large catamaran that was being painted. The other was a charter boat from Belize that was also being painted. Now keep in mind that torrential rains are common here every day. So imagine trying to paint a boat. Both of these were delayed by 3 weeks or more, which meant we were also delayed. In addition Abel gives preference to emergencies. And wouldn't you know someone tried to run their power boat over a reef in Belize.
On a Tuesday we dropped by for our almost daily update and were surprised to find the catamaran had been launched. We were told it would take a day to readjust the rail car from the catamaran. Also the charter boat from Belize was being sprayed so we might want to wait a couple of days for that to be finished. On Thursday we made another visit and the charter boat was still not painted yet. We decided not to wait any longer. So we got the OK to bring the boat over on Friday morning. Finally this was going to happen.

Friday morning we were up early and got under way. It is only a couple of miles from the Marina to the haul out. There was a power boat on the rail that was supposed to be gone by the time we arrived. So we just motored around for about an hour or more while they finished installing the cutlass bearings and launched it. The rail car was lowered into the water and the boat towed off by a small skiff. We were then signaled to bring our boat in. We drove in on the railway between four steel beams that stuck out of the water. Two of Abel's employees were in the water waiting for us. Once we were close to center over the car the guys in the water tied lines to the beams to keep us in position. Using only snorkel masks they swam under the boat and adjusted the beams tight against our rub rail. Next they set up the stands to prop up the hull. All of this is done by hand under water. Once they were comfortable that the boat was well supported a signal was given to another fellow on shore who fired up the diesel winch that slowly pulled us by a cable, out of the water and onto the service area. It is obvious they do this many many times. We never felt concerned at any time, but we were absolutely fascinated.

Once the boat was high and dry they power-washed the bottom and we began the removal of the old depth and speed transducers. The boat owners can do as much or as little of the work as they choose. We decided to have them do all of the sanding and painting and we would handle the transducers. We did get the transducers out on the first day. but because the bottom needed to dry out, not much else was done. We had taken a room at a small hotel about a block away so we checked in, had a nice dinner at their restaurant and enjoyed sleeping in an air conditioned room for a change.

The next morning the work began in earnest. We had four workman hard at the job of scraping loose paint and sanding. Meanwhile we went about installing the new transducers. The workers were very friendly, hard working and efficient. By mid day they had the boat almost ready for painting. We had also ask them to do a little cosmetic fiberglass work around the stern tube. It was done exactly as we had ask. By early afternoon the first coat of paint was applied and we were delighted with the way things were going. Since the workman usually started early, they didn't get the second coat on the same day. At the same time, we were doing some varnishing in the main salon, since we were off the boat. At the end of the day it was back to the hotel for dinner and air conditioning. If you haven't guessed, we don't have air conditioning on the boat.

The following morning the second coat of paint was being finished just as we arrived. We just needed to wait a few hours for it to dry before we were launched. So we did a final coat of varnish. At the designated time the boat and the rail car were released into the water. And I do mean released. As we came out it seemed like we were inched out a little at a time. But going back in seemed like they just cut us loose. But as we slid into the water the railway slowed to a stop. We did a thorough inspection to be sure nothing leaked. And once again the workers went under the boat with just masks and removed all of the stands. we slowly motored off the car and backed into the river. The whole experience was easy and painless. Except for the part were you have to pay for it all. It was quite a unique experience for us and that is what attracts us to this cruising lifestyle. But we have to remember to be patient here. There is the time on your clock and there is Guatemala time. There are days on the calendar and there are Guatemalan days. And they are not the same.

As an additional note, a new marina with a traditional travel lift has opened in Shell Bay directly across from Mar Marine. It is named Ram Marina and has room for storage on the hard, docks including fuel and other amenities. The Rio is constantly changing and new marinas and services are popping up everywhere.

The Jungle Medic

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Cruising does not always mean boisterous passages or cocktails on the aft deck at sunset. To the contrary, much of our time is spent exploring the country side and getting to know the local people. This approach for my wife Susan and I has enriched the experience far beyond what we expected when we moved aboard Sea Trek and started the cruising life almost 14 years ago. Beginning in mid April of 2005 the passage from the Florida Keys, down the coast of Mexico, and wandering through the many Cays in Belize has been wonderful. But that did not compare to our fantastic experience upon arriving on the Rio Dulce in Guatemala. We had heard from many sources, of the wonderful work done here by Bryan Buchanan and his wife Riechelle. Bryan is a certified paramedic and has done a residency here with a family practitioner and he has also done some dental training. Both he and Riechelle have been Missionaries in third world countries for several years, the last few here in Guatemala. They primarily travel to remote villages that do not have access to medical care and set up their clinic for the day, but they will offer care and medication to anyone that might need it, including the local cruising community. Bryan and Riechelle are known locally here on the river as The Jungle Medic.

Each morning here on the river at 07:30 there is a cruisers net on VHF channel 69. So when the call went out for volunteers for one of Bryan’s clinics we jumped at the chance, and so did several others. Crew from Nueva Vida, Dragonet, Island Time, Anon, T.O. Sea, Morenga, Balance, Rose of Sharon, Bold Venture, Pegasus and of course our own Sea Trek answered the call. Arrangements were made by Bryan to pick up the individuals at the various Marinas in his van on Wednesday and we all met at Bryan's home just outside of town. The turnout was great and we had 25 volunteers for our "team". Bryan instructed us as to what to expect and how to set up for the clinic. We were all also issued scrubs for the purpose of showing the villagers that we were part of the team and there to help them as opposed to just a group of Gringos. Bryan also noted that this was a very large village by comparison to others he regularly visits and it was also a very sick village. Because he had needed to assemble a large enough group, but until now had been unable, the village had not been visited for almost a year. He generally tries to return every few months to the areas he has covered.

The next morning at 08:00 we set out in two vehicles. Bryan's van with a trailer in tow, carrying all the medical supplies, and a Jeep loaned to us by one of the local Marinas. The village was approximately 45 miles away. Once we had left the main paved road the going was considerably slower. After about an hour we reached the village and began to set up tables and the supplies on the front "porch" of two buildings of the school. Immediately after our arrival the villagers began to line up for what proved to be a long day. It had rained that morning and all of the grounds were muddy and it continued to rain off and on several times that day. We all received thorough instructions on just what our assignments were and exactly how to perform them. Once everything was ready and we were sure of what to do the first villagers started down the line.

This is not a true Medical Clinic in the sense that most might normally consider. There are no Doctors here most of the time. We had one other certified paramedic and two experienced nurses as part of the group. No one tries to diagnose serious illnesses or treat those that should see a doctor or be treated in a hospital. Those people are told they must go to one of the larger cities for appropriate treatment and Bryan frequently assists them by providing transportation. Our purpose there was to treat the most common problems related to the lifestyles and environment in which these people live. The most significant issues are infections that needed antibiotics, treatment of various types of worms that affected most of the children, and getting everyone some type of nutritional supplement since the local diets are very poor and lacking even the basics. This is indeed simply putting a band aid on a wound but as we saw it does make a difference in their lives and they do respond to it.

This was a local village of the Kek'chi Mayan Indians. That does present somewhat of a language barrier since none speak any English and most do not even speak Spanish. And add to this the fact that there are over 20 different dialects. The few that spoke Spanish served as interpreters including the village Chief who helped in translating and keeping order as the day progressed. We could usually get the message across using some crude sign language. This village was very near a local tourist attraction so they were somewhat used to interacting with outsiders.

Each family was seen as group and at least one parent had to accompany any children. One thing that struck us right off was the lack of men waiting in line. We later found out that they usually won't come because it is not macho to stand in line with the women and children or to admit that you are sick. Many are also out working during the day. The line was very long and there were many children including some very young girls, only teens themselves, with three, four, and five children. These were the ones we were especially there to help. Riechelle kept control of the line and assigned numbers to each individual, but as a family group. The number was written on the back their hands so we could keep track.

Their first stop was at the table of either Bryan or the other paramedic, Mark. They determined the specific needs and wrote that down on a piece of paper with the number that coordinated to the one on their hand. They then moved to the next table, or station, and we would check their paper to see if they needed anything from our station. The paper needed to match the number on their hand since many mothers carried the papers for all their children. Most of the children required worm medicine which was liquid given orally. Next the children and adults were given vitamin supplements. They had been given instructions at the paramedic’s station by the interpreter as to when and how to take the pills or capsules. Next stop was for skin problems as well as eyes, and ears. Any needed antibiotics were applied by the team members. Their last stop was the pharmacy station. Each of the two pharmacy stations were manned by one of the two nurses on the team along with one helper that could at least speak Spanish. Since Susan speaks pretty good Spanish she was assigned to one of the pharmacy stations. Most of the items passed out there were some form of oral antibiotics to treat the infections diagnosed by the paramedics. There was a station set up in the middle of the school grounds at the town water pump. This station was to wash and treat the hair of the children infected with lice. We saw women and children from infants to ages I did not even want to guess.

We had started early in the morning and except for a quick lunch break finished up by mid afternoon. We saw, in all, almost 500 people. Several of us had brought along our digital cameras to photograph our experiences. The children were delighted to have us take their picture and then show them the results on the cameras LCD screen. Except for reflections in the water most had never seen an image of themselves. It was indeed a moving experience and we will jump at the chance to go again. At the end of the day we all had a good feeling inside and knew that we had made a difference in these peoples lives however small it might be. It also showed them that there were people out there that cared about their welfare. This was an experience that we will never forget. And the small space here really can not give it proper understanding.

At the end of the day we were all pretty tired but Bryan's offer to take us to the local tourist attraction, which happened to be a nearby waterfall, was too good to resist. We packed up everything in the vans and headed out. The waterfall is just across the river and a little up stream from the village. It originates from a hot spring on a cliff above that has a constant temperature of about 120 degrees. Pools at the top are better than any hot tub. The water fall tumbles into the very cool river below and the temperature difference leaves a mist on the water. You can swim from the very cool water in the river to the heated water as it runs down the waterfall. It is a great experience and we know why the tourists like to come here. This was the perfect end to an unforgettable day. As we were leaving the falls it rained again and we had a very cool drive back to our Marinas. We went to bed that night exhausted but satisfied that we had been able to give something back to these people that allowed us to share some of their beautiful country.

Bryan's clinics are not always conducted by layman. He has a group of Doctors from outside the country that participates on a regular basis and it is not unusual for him to have medical teams booked for a year in advance. He spends some time each year in the

speaking at various venues and is constantly finding medical folks willing to donate their time to this great cause. His funding comes from many private donations from folks that know of the good work he and Riechelle do, as well as a few churches that regularly donate to the cause. But funds are always needed and appreciated. Also many individuals as well as drug companies in the

regularly send donated medicines and vitamins. At the writing of this article Bryan is in the field with a full medical team for ten days.

Bryan and Riechelle also have a completely converted and fitted medical bus outfitted in the

and brought to Guatemala by the US Air Force

. It has complete diagnostic, treatment and lab equipment as well as examining rooms. The bus will greatly improve the quality of care that Bryan and his teams will be able to provide these wonderful people. The United States Air Force graciously agreed to fly the bus down on a military transport. You can find out more about the work that Bryan and Riechelle do and see some wonderful photos from some of the villages they have visited.

The website is http://www.junglemedicmissions.org and should not be missed. If anyone ever has the opportunity to come and visit here and participate in Bryan's clinic we highly recommend you do so. It might just be the experience of a lifetime. And you can sure bank a bunch of good karma. Chuck and Susan

Jennifer On The Rio by Susan

2024-01-22T16:01:00.000-05:00

Jennifer Lindeen is a 50 something woman living alone in Rio Dulce, Guatemala in the jungle home that she and her ex-husband built. Okay, so she didn’t go there alone, but the fact that she lives there alone now and survives on a modest income in what is still jungle, to us was fascinating. Let’s backtrack a little about how we found Jennifer and how she came to be at her place in life.

My husband Chuck and I had been planning a trip to Guatemala on our sailboat/home Sea Trek for over 6 years. For a number of reasons we were delayed, but finally got underway and headed South in the spring of 2005 from the Florida Keys down through Mexico and Belize. Good friends of ours from Minnesota/Florida, the Brands on the trawler Freelance, had suggested that when we arrive in the river, we should clear in at Livingston, Guatemala, then make the 10 mile run upriver and anchor in front the house with the red roof located in the third bay on the left. Jennifer and her former husband had rented a home from the Brands in Minneapolis almost 20 years ago. They had stayed in touch and had been reunited on the river about 10 years ago. That stirred our curiosity. A woman living alone in a house next to the river with no roads and a 15 foot open boat as the only means of transportation anywhere? We had to meet this person.

We arrived and anchored in Gringo Bay with another boat with whom we had been traveling. Our first call to Jennifer on the VHF radio was for advice. Kathleen from Nueva Vida had a scary bite on her knee of unknown origin and it was suggested that Jennifer, with her years of living on the river, may have some idea of what it was and how to treat it. Kathleen and her husband Tom went ashore to Jennifer’s house for a consultation. She inspected Kathleen’s knee and advised her to see the Jungle Medic further up the river. We decided to make our social call the next day after Nueva Vida had left to go upriver seeking further medical attention.

Jennifer greeted us warmly to her home and offered us a cup of coffee. Not only was it delicious, she had grown the beans and roasted and ground them herself. Although we knew some of her history, we asked her how she came to be in such a beautiful place and how she fared living alone in what can be a lonely and difficult environment. Jennifer had originally come to the river in the late 80’s aboard a sailboat with her ex-husband. They had been cruising for several years, starting in Lake Superior, Minnesota. They followed the Great Lakes to the Saint Lawrence, the Canadian Maritimes, and down the Atlantic coast to Florida. After some years in the Bahamas, Mexico and Belize, they fell in love with the Rio Dulce. They worked as river tour guides and charter captains for a number of years and eventually built the home that Jennifer lives in today.

The house itself is directly on the water in a cove known as Gringo Bay. The area got its’ name, naturally, because American expats had settled there. The first thing you see as you approach Jennifer’s house from El Golfete is the red roofs. The long front porch hangs over the water and runs the length of the house. The inviting couches and low chairs are casually arranged and beckon you to relax and put up your feet. I’ve never seen a prettier view of Sea Trek, our Mariner 40, than from this porch. This is also where Jennifer does her painting, inspired by her surroundings. She used to work out of a cottage up on the hill behind the house, but found it too confining. Now it sits empty, but makes a great backdrop for a photograph. She has a very serviceable kitchen and a large dining room table just steps away so she is never far from her guests. She is an avid reader and books line the shelves above the sitting area off to the left of the galley. There is also a small bathroom off the kitchen. Upon exiting the back door of the kitchen, one makes a left to go upstairs to the bedroom. This is the only screened in area of the house, surprisingly enough. The bedroom also has a cat door for LaVerne, a tabby shorthair, to have easy exit and entry, but occasionally is visited by other uninvited critters. The side of the porch is used for a dinghy dock with convenient steps to enter the porch. Jennifer also has a covered dock for her panga as well as her workers cayucos, hand carved canoes. Because the house is in and on the water, the lovely deck is perfect for afternoon socializing.

There are no roads or power lines and no public sewer or water. The river is the road and a dependable outboard engine is her lifeline. Electrical power to her home is supplied by golf cart batteries which are in turn charged by solar panels on the roof. Fresh water comes from a well on the back of the property, of which there is never a shortage due to abundant rainfall. This is, after all, the jungle. Jennifer’s home in the evening has the romantic glow of oil lanterns as she attempts to conserve power that is not needed. She grows apples and other fruit in the lush gardens behind the house to supplement her diet. When she needs supplies, she has to run 12 miles upriver to Fronteras or 9 miles downriver to Livingston in her boat. Cell phones have reached the jungle and although the service is unreliable, she can still make calls. The VHF radio, however, remains her main source of communication and she generally stands by on Ch. 68 and simply goes by “Jennifer”. She will also answer to “October”, the name of her former sailboat, which is no longer on the river. Recently she has added satellite radio to the house and thoroughly enjoys the programming, especially NPR and good old Prairie Home Companion.

Any inconvenience Jennifer may experience living here is offset by the sheer beauty of the place.

She has converted the back 40 into a lush garden with Jurassic Park size plants that is full of the most beautiful electric blue butterflies. Chico, her trusty assistant, will gladly take visitors on a tour of the garden to look for these elusive creatures. They don’t seem to like to have their picture taken and I can attest to after hours of stalking them with my camera. There are walkways that meander through flowerbeds, shaded by towering trees and the air is filled with the raucous calls of green parrots and other tropical birds. She has tamed the hill behind her house to a degree and one can walk for hours there taking pictures of the many species of flowers and plants, too numerous to name. At one point, she was even raising Australian freshwater lobsters in ponds toward the back of the yard. I have often gotten off the boat just to wander there alone. A more tranquil and peaceful place I have rarely found.

After 15 years, the spark of living on the river was gone for Jennifer’s ex and soon, he was too. Jennifer decided to stay on in the river after his departure in 2003. She loved it there and chose to stay and do what she could to provide for herself without having to move back to the U.S. Her mainstay is her wonderful artwork – oil paint on thick canvas, primarily of jungle scenes. Her reasonably priced work is beautiful as well as durable. She can also be found in the wee hours of the morning buying “robalo” or snook from the local cayuco fishermen, then filleting it to sell fresh to cruisers in “Gringo Bay”. She also has it available frozen to sell at the swap meet at Mario’s Marina every Saturday morning, where she offers all of her wares. She also sews courtesy flags, grows and sells fresh basil, coconut oil and killer bee honey from her own hives.

Many people come into the Rio Dulce with their sailboats to escape the Atlantic hurricane season. Jennifer will provide boaters with a safe haven in Gringo Bay on a secure mooring. She will then transport them in her “panga”, the aforementioned open boat, to Fronteras for connecting transportation to Guatemala City. She has also become the “accidental restaurant”. People have seen the house on the water with a number of chairs and tables on the porch and assumed it was a restaurant. On one occasion when a boater approached her late one afternoon and asked what time dinner was served, she said, “what the heck” and will now serve meals should weary boaters request her culinary services. We can personally attest to those skills after a dinner of pasta with fresh homemade pesto sauce and items from her garden!

Those are some of the things she does to survive, but the person is so much more interesting. She is a deeply spiritual, sensitive person and has decided to give back to the country and community that has given her a home. She is involved in local neighborhood projects such as sending a 5 year old deaf child to a special school where she can learn sign language and lip reading. She is also encouraging a group of Mayan Indian women who are interested in starting a cooperative to raise chickens by going to their meetings and disseminating information to parties that may be interested in investing in the project. Women in this country are not encouraged to run their own businesses. She also provides employment for a local couple who otherwise would have no income other than what they might earn selling a few fish per day. In a recent email from Jennifer, she had this to say about her current activities.

“I’m showing a lot of property for sale these days, and of course enjoying my new neighbors. The new school year has started and I distributed school supplies for 33 elementary kids whose families were not able to buy them. My goal is to get 100% attendance … no excuses for lack of money. And this year some of my new neighbors and I organized a “basico” (high school.) The local village has never had one before, and only the wealthier kids could go to private schools in other communities. Now there’re 6 teenagers going to a makeshift School in the village based on a radio program that’s broadcast for rural kids. We hired a teacher and are using the elementary school building in the afternoon. Cool, huh? And the little deaf girl is doing great!”

We didn’t just stop one afternoon to see Jennifer. Her little bay is an oasis from the hussle and bussle of the “marina district” of Rio Dulce and we would try to escape to Gringo Bay whenever we could. During one visit in October of 2005, she hosted a “croning ceremony” for women of a “certain age”. At 45, I was told I was too young so I observed. A group of 10 women from sailboats in the marina district spent the day together on the porch overlooking the river, sharing laughs and snacks. Some of the women took a dip in the fresh water river and did their best Ester Williams impersonations. As the day wore on into evening, the tone became more serious and the ladies dressed in sarongs for the ceremony. As darkness descended, we climbed the steps to the jungle garden and lit a fire in the large circular rock pit which had been constructed that afternoon. As each women held a candle and spoke of their dreams for the next year of life, camaraderie developed and we all embraced under the full moon. Afterward, everyone started howling to the delight of Jennifer’s “guard dog” Sandia who joined in with glee. After a dinner of roast chicken, salad and bread, the women spent the night draped over hammocks and sofas, while I quietly motored our dinghy out to my waiting husband and boat.

We hugged Jennifer goodbye before we left the river with a standing offer to return anytime and to keep in touch via email. When asked about herself, she admits, “Yeah, I guess my life is interesting!” Jennifer is a generous soul who seems to have found her place on this big rock we call Earth and that place is the Rio Dulce. She gives a heck of a lot more than she takes and Guatemala and the boating community are so much better for her presence.

Life on the Rio Dulce

2024-01-22T15:58:00.000-05:00

Cruising is not really a fitting description of what most boaters do once they reach this beautiful country of Guatemala. The area near the mouth of the Rio Dulce is one of the most popular and safest areas in the Western Caribbean during the hurricane season.

In our research, we had heard some disturbing accounts of security problems on the river. There were tales of theft, intrigue, drugs and even murder in the idyllic setting. Later, we would uncover the true nature of those reports. Most boaters arriving here immediately head for the Marina District. By doing so, they bypass some great opportunities to enjoy the lower part of the river and experience some of the native settlements.

We did an unscientific survey of the marinas when we arrived, and found to our surprise that around 80 percent of the boats were unattended and basically in storage for the upcoming hurricane season. Their owners had returned home or gone off for extended traveling elsewhere; as cruising sailors, we found this sad. Even the owners that stay aboard during the “season” rarely went anywhere on the boat. Yes, many did the typical inland exploration — as did we — since there is much to see in this beautiful country and we could have spent a lot more time doing just that if we in fact had the time.

Inland travel is fairly easy since there is a bus terminal in Fronteras, the main town here, to anywhere in the country you choose to go. We visited Guatemala City several times, the Lake Atitlan area, Antigua and the black sand beaches of the Pacific coast.

But we have always enjoyed exploring new places on Sea Trek and that is why we have lived aboard and cruised her for almost 14 years. So coming to a perfect and protected cruising grounds such as this and just parking the boat seemed almost sacrilegious.

Caution and common sense

When traveling inland for extended periods of time cruisers should leave the boat in one of the dozen or so marinas for security reasons. Petty theft can be a problem. Some marinas are not as secure as others, so be sure to ask around and get some first-hand advice; we found that unsubstantiated rumors do move up and down the river. It is, in part, those rumors that keep many from exploring any farther on their own. When we first arrived, we were warned not to go anywhere outside the marina area unless we buddy boated.

Even our outdated guidebook, which everyone uses, warns that anchoring in the Gorge or anywhere on the lower river can result in midnight boardings — banditos swinging from the trees down onto your boat from the jungle. In retrospect, we think they saw too many Tarzan movies as children. (Some of the Tarzan movies with Johnny Weissmuller were actually filmed here.) Over and over again we heard about the security issues of traveling alone here. We had to wonder then why so many cruisers came here after all.

From what we determined, no serious crimes have been reported here for years. However, incidents from years back are still retold as if they happened last week. The murder we had heard about was more than eight years ago. Even our embassy warned us about a “non-resident” being killed and a woman being raped. When we pressed, they admitted that it happened five years ago and in Guatemala City, far from the river. We were also told of boats being boarded and things stolen in the middle of the night when anchored off alone.

But then we discovered — after being here for four months — that there was not one incident of a boat being boarded or anything being stolen off any of the few boats that did cruise the river, including ourselves.

The people that live here seem basically happy and hard-working, but they are very poor. Simply put: you need to use a certain amount of common sense and caution. Lock the boat when you leave and don’t leave things just lying about, especially at night. Boat traffic is heavy on the river day and night and the locals are curious about us, so they often come right alongside the boat as they travel up and down the river. Once we determined that things were pretty safe we began to spend more time exploring and cruising.

Exploring the beauty

Every anchorage on the river — as well as El Golfete and Lago Izabal — is spectacular. Lago Izabal is 15 miles wide and 30 miles long. The average depth is about 20 feet but as deep as 59 feet. El Golfete is a 10-mile-long beautiful bay surrounded by mountains that are covered with jungle. The waters are deep almost right up to the shoreline and you are surrounded by breathtaking vistas. If you are anchored in the right places the jungle sounds at night are fascinating.

This whole area is unlike any cruising grounds we have visited. And because most other boaters don’t leave the marinas we had the entire river system to ourselves, with peaceful anchorages wherever we went. There is one village on the Lago Izabal called El Estor that should not be used as an overnight anchorage. This is a former mining town that has fallen to hard times. Here we suspect you might experience some theft problems, so a daytime visit only is recommended.

There are rivers running in to the entire watershed from the mountains almost everywhere. These are wonderful for dinghy exploration, but be sure and use lots of bug repellent and always keep in mind that you are in the jungle.

Of course there is much to do if you hang around the main marina area. Each morning the day starts off with the local VHF net on channel 68. New arrivals introduce themselves and folks leaving on their boats say goodbye. It is an opportunity to locate hard-to-find parts or sell something you want to get rid of. The local restaurants announce their daily specials and any upcoming social events. Every Saturday morning The Cayuco Club sponsors a swap meet on the grounds of Mario’s Marina – just in case you didn’t sell your stuff over the VHF. Even local handicrafts are sold by local indigenous people.

This is a good opportunity to catch up on river gossip as well as socialize. On almost every holiday some event is going on at one of the marinas, including Fourth of July celebrations and huge Thanksgiving dinners, plus everything from pot luck dinners with everyone invited, including the locals, to Hawaiian Luaus.

Guatemala City is a five-hour bus ride and at some time everyone makes the trip at least once. We made the trip two times and can’t tell you how much we enjoyed ourselves. A private van with a driver can be arranged that will take you to the Mayan ruins in Copan, Honduras or Tikal in Northern Guatemala. Trips to any of the country’s fabulous tourist destinations can be arranged in Fronteras. It does not surprise us that some boaters came here for a visit and have stayed, in a few cases for more than 10 years. Many more come back here year after year and say they never do the same things twice.

We are not sure if or when we might return, but we know that if there is a next time we will spend a great deal more time on the water than tied to a dock. If your plans bring you to Guatemala in the future, consider a long, slow cruise along the Rio Dulce.

Arriving in "The River"

2024-01-22T15:57:00.000-05:00

The weather was still holding for us but rain and thunderstorms were forecast for the Bay of Honduras for the next few days. We were also timing our arrival at the entrance to the Rio Dulce to coincide with an astronomical high tide to give us as much water as possible when we crossed the famous “bar” at the mouth of the river. Leaving New Haven Bight early in the morning meant the next high tide would not be until the next day.

There are a couple of choices when waiting to enter the river as to where you might want to anchor for the night. Most folks, it seems, anchor behind Cabo Tres Puntas, which is due east of the river entrance by about 10 miles. The prevailing winds in this area generally switch to the west at night and hold there until about late morning. This means the anchorage behind Cabo Tres Puntas is exposed to swells with a 10-mile fetch, which puts you on a lee shore if things get exciting. Not a situation we prefer, especially since the afternoon and evening thunderstorms can produce winds to 50 knots and some pretty uncomfortable seas.

The second option, and the one we chose, was to continue in along the coastline of Cabo Tres Puntas in a southeast direction into a well-protected bay called Bahia La Graciosa. By avoiding the uncharted shoal on your portside that extends off the tip in toward the bay at the entrance, coming in is easy and the entrance is otherwise very straight forward.

Local sights and sounds

We had arrived at about 4 p.m. along with our friends on the sailing vessel Nueva Vida. This is a couple from Alaska with three children aboard whom we had met in Tulum and had traveled with again for much of Belize. We positioned ourselves in the northern end of the bay for protection from the forecast winds. This bay is beautiful and affords 360-degree protection in just about any weather condition. We found ourselves anchored just off a native fishing village. As we sat in the cockpit enjoying the afternoon, we watched as they strung their nets between trees, and cleaned and repaired them. We also saw a group of natives fishing from a panga just off our stern. They tied the boat to shore and extended their nets out at right angles, then walked them in an arc to the stern of their boat. They were corralling the fish back toward the shoreline and the boat. Once the circle was completed and the nets were right along side their panga they simply reached down, grabbed the fish and threw them into the boat.

These were no small fish since some seemed to be almost as large as the fisherman. And, no, this is not a fish tale. We were totally fascinated and this was our first look at how the Guatemalan natives lived and worked. This area is very remote, with access only by boat. The closest town is Livingston, 10 miles across the bay. Near sunset the fisherman hauled in their nets and headed home. Just as the sun was going down we were treated to another first.

From the jungle we could hear the very distinctive calls of howler monkeys. Many cruisers that had come here before us had told us to listen for them just after sunset and as soon as the sun comes up. This is the time they are most active and vocal.

It was quite an experience the first time and Susan was really excited. She soon had the imitation of their call down, and could even get them to call back to her.

A weather window decision

Our plans were to leave around 5 a.m. the next day to be across the bar on the rising tide. During the night we had become surrounded by thunderstorms, but none drifted over our small bay. By the time we were ready to pull up our anchor they had positioned themselves directly between us and Livingston. The light show was pretty impressive. We talked on the radio with Nueva Vida. They had anchored about a quarter-mile from us and we told them we really did not feel comfortable with the storms out in the bay, and were concerned that one might sit on top of us as we tried to cross the bar.

We waited a couple of more hours, but the storms were holding and the clock was ticking for us. Finally we knew we could not make it to the bar with a good tide so we sat out the rest of the day right where we were. This was not a bad thing since the high tide was a little later and a little higher the next morning.

Other than a few sprinkles in the morning, the storms stayed outside the bay, so we enjoyed this beautiful place surrounded by jungle and flat calm water. We took some time to take the dinghy and get a little closer to the fishing village. The villagers watched us with curiosity and waved enthusiastically when we came by. Later that night they had some kind of celebration and turned on their generator and ran electric lights. They spent several hours playing guitars and singing until about 9 p.m., when the lights went out and all was quiet again in our world.

You really have to experience these kinds of moments to appreciate the feeling that one gets. These are the reasons we worked hard and planned hard to get out here to travel the watery part of our planet on a small boat. But even on this evening we could not imagine that the best was yet to come.

Cutting it close

That night and early the next morning we once again had thunderstorms in the vicinity and you have to see the lightning displays to truly appreciate them. We had encountered this off and on down the entire coast from about Tulum south, but it was obvious that from now on this was to be a nightly occurrence. The plus side in the morning was that the storms were over inland Honduras to the east and were not blocking our path.

So at 6 a.m. we hauled up the anchor along with our friends and headed across the bay to the bar and Livingston. We were making a little better time than we had planned so we slowed down a bit, but even then knew we would arrive well before high tide. If we did ground at the bar we would simply wait a bit for the tide to come up. Nueva Vida draws 6-1/2 feet and Sea Trek draws 6 feet. The bar is reported to be 5 feet at mean low water.

The tidal range here is not very much and is dictated by the depths of the river further upstream. This is determined by the amount of rainfall inland as well as over the river and the two lakes that make up most of the system.

Since our draft is a little less than Nueva Vida, we crossed first and stayed in radio contact to provide them with depth reports. Sea Trek crossed the bar at about 7:45 a.m. with no problems. We were in the Rio Dulce and had met one of our greatest goals for the trip so far.

I can’t describe the excitement we felt at that moment, but just crossing the bar is not all we needed to worry about. The river entrance is very shallow in many places in the Livingston Harbor so our excitement was short-lived. Once again we had a good set of waypoints provided by our friends on the sailing vessel Filia and followed them carefully to the commercial dock at Livingston. Filia has been in and out of the river every year for the last 10 years and their draft is also 6 feet. We have used their waypoints several times in the past and found them always to be extremely accurate. We are well aware that using anyone else’s waypoints should be done with caution, and with careful examination of charts and any other navigational references available. Situations and conditions can obviously change rapidly in the marine environment.

Nautical gymnastics

A sailboat with a deeper draft trying to enter the river system creates an interesting challenge that calls for a technique that can be a bit unnerving. It entails the assistance of two local pangas working in tandem with each other. One panga will attach halyards from the mast head to their vessel and pull straight out from your beam. This heals the boat over far enough to reduce the draft sufficiently to get you over the bar.

At the same time the second panga is attached to the bow with a tow line, and pulls the boat forward until it’s in deeper water. It sounds scarier than it actually is because these fellows do this all the time and are quite good at it. The cost to get you over is usually $100 to $125 (U.S.) for the assistance of both boats.

Once over the bar, the deeper water doglegs straight up river for about a quarter-mile and then makes a turn to starboard toward the concrete municipal dock, the area where you must anchor. We found the holding here to be poor for anchoring, so this should not be attempted in bad weather. It’s also a good idea to leave someone on the boat at all times while at Livingston, unless the conditions are totally calm. Luckily calm conditions were our experience as we finally dropped the hook.

A sincere welcoming

We found the check-in process here to be one of the most pleasant and easy we’ve experienced almost anywhere. The first step is to call the Port Captain on VHF Channel 16. He speaks only Spanish so if no one on the boats has a grasp of the language a call to the Customs agent, Raul, might help smooth thing along. Raul is extremely helpful and speaks English. We are fortunate that Susan speaks pretty fluent Spanish, which has made our travels along Central America much smoother.

Once contact has been made you need to wait on the boat and all of the appropriate officials will come to you. You will be visited by the Port Captain, Customs, Immigrations and Health. Of the four, only Raul from Customs speaks English. Their visit was short and very pleasant. No search or inspection was done. They sat in our cockpit and chatted a bit, collected our passports, gave us a map of the town showing where all of their offices where and told us exactly what the charge would be at each office. This was amazing since it eliminates the possibility of unexpected or unofficial charges coming up at any time during check-in. They welcomed us to Guatemala and expressed a hope that we enjoy our stay. We were instructed to go to shore to begin the process, and told our passports would be in Immigration. The whole process, including a stop at the bank to change our U.S. dollars to local currency, took 40 to 50 minutes.

Once officially cleared in, we were free to enjoy these fantastic cruising grounds. We made a few stops in town to purchase some supplies and returned to the boat. Because of the strong current, poor holding and wakes from the local fishing boats it was decided that we would immediately move up river.

Our first stop was to be a small bay only about 12 miles away and it was still early morning. So, without hesitation, we pulled up the anchor and headed toward one of our greatest adventures to date.

Wandering through Belize

2024-01-22T15:54:00.000-05:00

From our nice, protected anchorage behind the Drowned Cays about 10 miles east of Belize City, we called to see if the marina had any room.

“Cucumber Beach Marina, Cucumber Beach Marina, this is Sea Trek on Channel 16, over.”

Carlos, the marina manager, indicated they did and we could arrive any time that day. We decided to go into a marina — something we normally do very seldom when cruising — for several reasons. First, very strong winds were expected to develop over the next few days. Second, our outboard was cutting out at inconvenient times, such as heading downwind in a strong current. Good thing Chuck is a strong rower or he might have been blown to Belize City in a good easterly. Since we were in no hurry, we got the anchor up, motored out of our little “bogue” and headed just south of west across Belize Harbor. Once on course, we popped the jib and cut the engine. What started as flat-water sailing got progressively more boisterous as we left the lee of the Drowned Cays. By the time we approached Cucumber Beach, we were surfing down 4-footers. I thought it was supposed to be flat sailing behind the reefs in Belize, but this is a wide area with a 10-mile fetch in waters of only 25 feet or so.

From a few miles out, Cucumber Beach is very apparent with its red-and-white roofs, which stand in stark contrast to miles and miles of nothing but mangrove trees. The marina entrance coordinates had been provided to us by Carlos and we rolled up the jib about a half-mile from the waypoint. A jetty running diagonally to shore has been built at the marina entrance to reduce the amount of surge that is allowed to enter. We were guided in on VHF channel 68 to our slip, having cleared ahead of time which side we would be tied to and had fenders and dock lines ready. Smiling, friendly dockhands were on hand to assist us, and within minutes we were secure.

Repairs and provisions

Cucumber Beach Marina is truly an oasis along the mainland coast of northern Belize. Once a commercial port for the exportation of, you guessed it, cucumbers, the property has been converted to a marina, yard, restaurant and museum. Just five miles from Belize City on the Southern Highway, this is the perfect place to reprovision, do inland trips or get those repairs done that have plagued you since you left the United States.

Our first order of business was the outboard. Carlos and Paul know every mechanic, taxi driver, service provider, etc., in the area and within hours, had a mechanic respond to our boat. There are no services on the grounds, but someone can drive out from the city very quickly. The mechanic took our outboard back to his shop and delivered it the same afternoon in much better working order. We also needed propane and were concerned about riding the bus with our tank. No problem. The gas company came to the marina, picked up our tank, refilled it and also had it back in the same day for around $5 (U.S.). (Note: Belizean currency is $2 to 1 U.S. dollar, which gives you the illusion of getting everything half price.)

Now that the critical issues were resolved, we could move on to the more mundane concerns of laundry and groceries. With only one washer and one dryer, laundry took a while, but it was a short walk from the boat. Shopping was another issue with town being five miles away.

We happened to strike up a conversation with a Canadian woman whose cousin lives in Belize, and had lent her a car to use during her stay. I was able to hitch a ride to the store with her and top off Sea Trek’s stores with items from the Save-U and the wonderful produce markets directly across the street. We found local meats and produce to be fairly reasonably priced and of good quality. U.S. products could also be purchased, but for substantially more than at home.

Taking in the sights

Back at the marina we had finished all of our projects so decided to explore the grounds. From our vantage point on the northern side of the marina basin next to the office, we had to walk west and around the Travelift pit to get to the restaurant. Very noticeable are all of the very large ferry catamarans parked in the basin. They service the cruise ships that anchor out in the middle of the harbor, just south of the city. They begin early in the morning on days when ships are in port and take passengers to the ferry terminal in the city. (Should you make it into the city, there are wonderful duty-free shops and arts galleries near the terminal.) Also on the property is Old Belize, a museum with artifacts and historical background on this tiny country. On the waterfront is Sibun Bite restaurant.

The entire complex is owned and operated by Francis Cisco. A nicer and friendlier proprietor you will not find. He personally greets all boaters and is very open to suggestions. We should also mention that we found the food at Sibun Bite reasonably priced and delicious. Free wireless Internet is available in the marina and restaurant.

Francis has taken the area in front of the restaurant on the harbor’s edge and transformed it into a beach complete with tiki huts, kayaks and palm trees. It makes one feel like they are in Polynesia.

We got weathered in Cucumber Beach with very strong trades so decided to go inland. If your cruising kitty is well-stocked, you can hire a private taxi to take you virtually anywhere in the country, even to neighboring Guatemala to Tikal. (It’s closer from here than from the Rio Dulce.) The Belize Zoo is only 20 miles away from the marina and is an inexpensive, fun-filled day. With limited funds, we braved the country’s bus system and rode to San Ignacio. It was hot and crowded and lots of water is recommended. We had the small ruins of Cahal Pech, a Mayan city, to ourselves one bright morning. Hotels and restaurants are plentiful and reasonably priced. We spent three great days in this rustic small town that is loaded with tourist attractions.

Island hopping

We knew we needed to press on so continued south after saying goodbye to the friendliest, most helpful marina staff we had ever met anywhere. We broke the days up into short hops of 15 or 20 miles as the weather forecast looked quite good for the week. The first night was Bluefield Range near Rendezvous Cay close to the reef.

This defunct fishing camp is distinguishable from a distance with its light blue tiny stilt cabins. One can anchor in its lee, in between the cays for all around protection or on the Caribbean side in a westerly, with good holding. It is a short two-mile dinghy ride to the outlying reef for snorkeling, fishing or diving.

The next night we had chosen Coco Plum Cay near the Tobacco Cay reef pass. Although a beautiful little cay, broken up into three after numerous storms, the holding was terrible and we spent two hours trying to get either a CQR or Danforth to hold. The bottom was just too hard and grassy for anything to penetrate so we let out the 45-pound anchor and 150 feet of chain to hold us in place. We prayed for no squalls overnight and fortunately there were none.

Ordinarily we would have moved to a better anchorage, but the afternoon was wearing on and we didn’t want to get stuck in reef-strewn waters in the dark.

We moved on to Placencia the next day. I was very excited to see so many anchored boats through the binoculars as we approached from the north, but quickly realized the majority of them were charter boats. We did become reunited with some recent friends that had left us back in Cay Caulker.

Placencia is an interesting town at the end of a very long road. (See accompanying story, Page 11.) We cleared out of Belize in Big Creek, just south of Placencia. Chuck and the captain of the other boat dinghied the three or so miles there from the anchorage in Placencia. (It’s only three miles by water, but 45 miles by road.) They were chastised for not bringing the big boats to Big Creek as well as fined an additional $20 by the customs official. Live and learn.

A quiet anchorage

Our last stop before the Rio Dulce was New Haven Bight. This secure, protected anchorage on the mainland side of Belize is also part of the National Park system. We decided to spend two nights there to wait a weather window to cross the Gulf of Honduras to Livingston, Guatemala. Once the home of Hard Luck Charlie’s Boat Yard, this quiet anchorage is all but deserted. Hard Luck Charlie died some years back, as rumor has it, by getting drunk and driving his boat into the mangroves. You can’t get your boat hauled here, but there is a lovely mango tree next to Charlie’s old house that was spilling delicious fruit onto the ground.

A catamaran anchored in the little bay was occupied by an American couple looking to buy property in the cove and spend their retirement here. We found this to be true in many places in Belize and Guatemala.

Like much of Belize, this area is now designated as part of a park system. On our second morning there we were hailed on VHF 16 by the Port of Honduras. Two gentlemen in a panga approached our stern and advised us that we would need to pay $10 (U.S.) per day per person for our stay there. Chuck politely discussed this with them. We could not understand why this would be part of the park as it was mainland area and not reefs, and there were no moorings or services.

They couldn’t have been more courteous and accepted payment for one day instead of two. They told Chuck that some people refuse to come out of their boats to speak to them and others don’t let them touch their boats to hang on to talk.

Belize is a wonderful, beautiful country with friendly people. However, one should note before traveling through Belize by boat that much of the country, mainland and cays, is part of the park system and as such is subject to a per-person charge to anchor. Tropicat, a cruising boat out of San Francisco, reported to us in December 2005 that at Lighthouse Reef the charge is $30 (U.S.) per person per day.

For those of us on tight budgets these costs can become prohibitive so, unfortunately, we did not see as much of Belize as we would have liked. Hopefully, the government there will reconsider some of these charges and the effect they might have on future tourism.

Having said that, we loved the time we spent in Belize and the new friends we made. But it was time to move on and experience Guatemala.

Placencia Belize

2024-01-22T15:53:00.001-05:00

The quaint village offers Caribbean flavor and more services than cruisers might expect

For cruisers in the Western Caribbean going north to Mexico and the United States, or heading the opposite way to Guatemala, Honduras and points south, a very logical and popular stop is at Placencia, Belize. The nearby Port of Big Creek is becoming more and more of a choice to either check in or check out of the country. Big Creek is a commercial port just west of Placencia. This is a port for large ships so the channel is deep and well-marked with red and green buoys. You must bring your boat to the port for either checking in or out. The Customs official will not clear you if you try to simply dinghy over. We found it’s a good idea to call Belize Port Control on Ch. 16 to find out if there will be any ship traffic as you enter or leave. The river is at least 20 feet deep, but it is also very narrow.

Travel up the river and drop anchor just beyond the commercial docks past a series of white floating buoys in about 8 to 10 feet of water. Anchoring beyond the buoys will put you out of the way of any ships or commercial vessels. Do not tie up to the commercial docks or you’ll be charged for docking as if you were a commercial ship. You can dinghy in past the commercial seawall to a small wooden dock with a roof and tie up for clearance. At this point you may very well be met by Elvis. OK, not that Elvis. But this Elvis has been working here at Big Creek for many years. He operates all of the heavy equipment at the port, but most importantly to the cruisers, he is a cab driver and his cab is almost always available. If he is unloading or loading a ship you might have to wait a bit.

Your first stop needs to be Immigration, and that is where the cab will come in handy. It is at least a couple of miles away and hard to find, so sharing a ride with fellow cruisers can save some money. As of Dec. 1, 2005, the fare was $25 (Belize) round trip with $1 (U.S.) equal to 2 Belize dollars.

Our immigration charges were $25 (Belize) for two passports. After returning to the port, the next stop is customs, which is right outside the front gate for the port. Paperwork is quick and easy, and if it is not a holiday or overtime hours there is no charge. Next you’ll need to go to Health and Agriculture, which has offices directly across the street from customs. Their process is also quick and easy and their charge is also $25 (Belize). After that, the Health and Agriculture inspector and Customs inspector will come to your boat for an inspection. They are looking for the usual things plus contaminated fruits, vegetables and meats that might be harmful to the agriculture and poultry in Belize. Small amounts for personal consumption are OK. You will need to ferry them back and forth in your dinghy. Remember that this port is primarily to receive large ships.

Tickets punched

After the clear-in process is completed the move to Placencia is a short trip. Once you’re clear of the last set of channel markers coming out of the river you can turn Northeast to the anchorage easily seen just off the village. There are no marinas here. We usually anchor just west of the small cay, also called Placencia, in about 20 feet of water. This gives good protection from the north to the east. If a swell works in from the south it will get a little rolly no matter where you anchor. Placencia, or Placentia as it is also spelled, has undergone quite a change over the last several years. This was originally a small fishing village with just a dirt road and a few amenities. It has since become quite a tourist destination with many resorts, guesthouses, restaurants and endless opportunities to snorkel, fish, dive or trek in to the mountains. Resorts both large and small are nearby with some still under construction — by film director Francis Ford Coppola.

Eco-tourism is the word we hear over and over again and the Europeans have definitely discovered the area. Most small hotels and guesthouses are full of what are affectionately known as “backpackers” — young folks who travel the country visiting out-of-the-way places with all of their belongings in their backpacks.

Many of the guesthouses and restaurants can be found along the “sidewalk.” This is just what you think — a continuous sidewalk that extends from the waterfront near the Fisherman’s Co-op to the north end of town. It parallels the white sand beach lined with palm trees as it meanders past quaint homes and commercial establishments. The amazing thing about this particular sidewalk is that it took the local residents 30 years to complete. Different dates and names can be found embedded in the cement all along its length. The sidewalk is connected to the main road by many footpaths and short dirt roads. There are many hidden treasures along these footpaths, like John the Baker Man. Each morning the line forms for his breads and cinnamon rolls fresh out of the oven. You must look closely for the signs directing you to his bakery.

Tips on food and fuel

As cruisers we are always interested in the ability to replenish provisions and other necessities. There are two small grocery stores on Main Street. They can provide almost anything that might be needed. Good supplies of frozen meats are always on hand, along with plenty of canned goods, cleaning supplies and personal hygiene products on the shelves. Fresh vegetables arrive every couple of days and, in addition to the grocery stores, there is at least one fresh vegetable stand with excellent products just next to the smaller of the two groceries. Fresh seafood as well as ice by the pound can be purchased at the Fisherman’s Co-op just off the waterfront, but you must bring your own bag for the ice.

There is a fuel dock at the end of Main Street where you can also land your dinghy. As with any fuel docks in the Caribbean we suggest that you take an empty, well-marked 5-gallon container and ask them to put five gallons only in it. We have been very surprised at the results many times, but it helps us determine the “actual” cost we will be paying for fuel and has helped us determine in some cases whether we might want to fuel up elsewhere.

The gate at the fuel dock is locked after 6 p.m., so if you will be later be sure and tie up on the inside of the gate at the dock. We know of no security problems here with dinghies but we usually lock the dinghy to the dock no matter where we go.

Local flavor

If you nail down any cruiser that has been to Placencia before as to why they come back time after time, you will time after time get two reasons. One is the Tuttifrutti Ice Cream shop and the other is Skip and Magda’s Smoothie Shak. Skip is a transplant from Los Angeles looking for a simpler life and Magda is from Honduras, but has lived in Placencia for 20 years. Their colorful shop makes great iced smoothies using only fresh fruits and you can find flavors from mango to seaweed. (Don’t knock it until you try it.) They also serve fresh vegetarian, chicken and fish lunch dishes. You won’t find any red meat on their menu.

The other delicacy in Placencia is Tisiana’s Italian homemade gelato ice cream at Tuttifrutti. Tisiana is truly Italian and the recipe has been in her family for generations. The flavors sometimes change, but never the quality. She also serves fantastic shakes and sundaes made with flavors of your choosing. If you hang around long enough you will notice some people coming back several times a day.

There are many restaurants in town serving all types of food. With names like the Purple Space Monkey, the Pickled Parrot, Yoli’s and De’tach, the atmosphere and cuisine is quite diverse. We always ask around town where the locals tend to eat and get a pretty good idea who has the best menu and prices. You can dine right on the beach or find a place with Caribbean flavor. Some of the restaurants now offer Internet service with your meals and one is free if you are eating there. Placencia even has a Wendy’s (not the fast food chain), which serves a great breakfast and lunch and dinner with a down island flavor. Fresh seafood and local dishes are found on most menus, as well as some more familiar items.

Fun in the sun

Eating and provisioning are not the only reasons to stop here. Each year the village puts on a number of annual events that should not be missed.

Each February for the last three years the village has put on a Side Walk Arts Festival. The festival has been so successful that artists from all over the world, as well as some wonderful local artists, come to show off their latest creations. Paintings, sculptures, jewelry and just about anything you might be interested in is on display.

In June the tourism center sponsors a Lobster Fest that is now in its eighth year, and well-known to cruisers that come to the western Caribbean on a regular basis. Seafood and entertainment are the order of the day and the celebration goes on for the entire weekend.

The annual Placencia Fishermen’s Day Saltwater Fishing Tournament is also held in June. The tournament covers fishing for Kingfish, Barracuda, Wahoo, Dorado, Tuna, Rockfish and Mutton Snapper. Prizes run from $750 to $1,000 for certain categories. Most folks come down for the fishing and the fun, and not necessarily the prize money. This year will be the seventh year and the number of entries gets larger and larger every year.

A new festival held for the first time this year is the Jambalaya Carnival Parade. Street vendors, music, dancing, entertainment and, of course, the parade made this first year such a success that planning is already in the works for next year.

Each Halloween a big celebration is put on for all of the local children; everyone is welcome. It is designed to give the kids a fun evening and all proceeds go toward the local humane society. This is a major source of their funding. The adults seem to have as much fun as the children.

The Annual Mistletoe Ball is held each December. Everyone dresses in their most formal wear and celebrates the beginnings of the Christmas season. Music and dancing along with contests make this a favorite for the folks all around the village as well as all visitors.

Celebrations are also planned for national holidays with parades, music, dancing and a whole lot of fun. Add to that the wonderful snorkeling and diving on the reefs and outer atolls and the great year-round fishing and Placencia is truly an undiscovered jewel in Belize. There seems to be something going on almost any month here. More details for dates, times and events can be found at www.placencia.com and also www.placenciabreeze.com. Information can also be found by doing a search for Destination Belize.

We have found this a wonderful place to stop and relax and highly recommend it to cruisers coming this way. We also know in doing that we take the chance on spoiling a great location but we felt the need to share Placencia with all of you. If you see a very pretty traditional ketch with red stripes and a white hull in the anchorage, stop by and see if it is Sea Trek. I suspect we will be here again and again.

Belize Begs For Exploration

2024-01-22T15:53:00.000-05:00

The spring trade winds have been very kind to us along the entire Mexican coast, sometimes too kind since we have spent more time motoring than sailing. The upside is that we haven’t spent a lot of time waiting for weather windows. So far we have pretty much been able to move to our next destination whenever we were ready.

By now our routine was well developed and at 9 o’clock Sunday morning we hauled up anchor and headed back out through the reef at Bahia Ascension, Mexico. We used the GPS track that we came in on to also leave. We always go out the same way we came in. If we get in OK then, logically, we should get out with no problem. This time was no different and we had very light northeast winds at about 5 knots.

The run out of the bay to cross the reef was more than 5 miles. For the next 26 hours we would sail a while, then motorsail a while, off and on for the 128 miles to our next port in San Pedro, Belize.

Around noon we hooked another tuna on the fishing line and shortly after that a barracuda. With that we hauled in the line for the rest of the day.

All along the Mexican coast we had played the currents to our advantage. By staying less than a mile off the reefs during the day and keeping a careful watch on our position, we were able to avoid the strong north-setting current that can run 2 to 3 knots at times. But in this area we were not able to avoid it and had to deal with a 1- to 1-1/2-knot counter-current. Even with that, we found ourselves just outside the reef break at San Pedro on Ambergris Cay Belize at 10 a.m. Monday morning.

Once again we had good waypoints outside the reef and through to the inside anchorage, but we arrived to find the area busy with boat traffic and dive boats anchored all along the reef. The entrance was still easy as long as we avoided the partially submerged portion of the reef that extends inside the break and required us to make a sharp turn to the north just after we entered. This cut would be treacherous in strong easterly winds.

The entire area shallows quickly, so we did not have much choice in where to anchor. With our 6-foot draft it was strange to have to anchor in 6-1/2 feet of water. The occasional wakes from the boats coming and going actually caused us to bump on the bottom. As we anchored we discovered that two other boats we had briefly met along the way were also anchored and had been there for several days.

Settling in

Ambergris Cay was once attached to the mainland. About a thousand years ago the Mayans dug a canal and cut the cay off from the mainland. The north side of this ancient cut is actually Mexico. This is a major tourist destination and is the largest and most developed island in Belize. Diving the reef is the biggest draw, but boats carrying tourists on snorkel and fishing trips are constantly in and out all day; and dive boats even run at night. San Pedro has its own airport and crewmembers can be flown in and out. We had timed our arrival for Monday morning to avoid any overtime charges by officials. The check-in is simple and only takes a visit to the immigration office, and then to customs, which are next door to each other. Occasionally, we’re told, the agricultural department folks will come out to inspect your foodstuffs and look for infestations.

To our surprise we learned that we had entered on a national holiday and had to pay the extra fees to clear in anyway — so much for careful planning. Because of the holiday, we had to wait for about a half-hour for the customs worker to come from her house. No matter, we just went and had ice cream while we waited. We enjoyed our visit, but because of the heavy boat traffic and wakes, we decided to move on after only spending one night.

Playing the tides

Heading south into Belize there are two options. One is to go back outside the reef and head for the Belize City ship channel 30 miles to the south. This option is especially appealing if the sea state is too rough to allow safe entrance through the reef at San Pedro. The other option is to run south on the inside. Because of the outlying reef that runs almost the entire distance of Belize, a boat will encounter small seas while sailing on the inside. The problem for us — with our 6-foot draft — is shallow channels in several areas along the inside route, but only as far South as Belize City. We choose this course anyway and decide to play the tides to get to Cay Caulker, about 15 miles south of San Pedro.

Almost as soon as the anchor was up we bumped bottom, but were able to continue on our way. We had timed this to keep us about an hour ahead of high tide just in case we ran aground. With the exception of touching bottom at the anchorage, the average depths along our route were around 7 feet. We arrived at Cay Caulker three hours later.

Island life at its best

Cay Caulker is actually two cays — after being cut in half by Hurricane Hattie in 1961. Today its primary source of income is tourism as are most of the outer settlements of Belize. The lobster industry that was once its mainstay is still present, but not as predominant as it used to be. The best word we could think of to describe Cay Caulker is “funky.” Its few streets and roads in the settlement are sand and the primary means of transportation is golf cart. The carts are so quiet that you don’t hear them come up behind you as you walk down the streets.

Restaurants line most of the streets as do the dive and fishing charters. The most famous eatery is the SandBox Bar and Grill, which serves great meals, sandwiches and even vegetarian food. We also found a post office, hardware and grocery stores, a bank, gift shops, a soda-and-beer distributor that sells to the public and one of the best bakeries we have found so far. Susan often bakes bread and other goodies on board, but we still found ourselves visiting the bakery almost every day. We also found a coin laundry — a rarity in our travels.

There is a large commercial dock where the supply ferries come in on a regular basis. Cruisers can tie their dinghies here on a side dock built especially for that purpose.

After a couple of days we regretfully started our leisurely cruise south through the cays. Our next destination, Cay Chape, was a short 7 miles south. The cay has been bought by private developers and converted to a high-end resort and golf course. Landing here is discouraged, although we did explore the resort by dinghy. The marina area is sadly unused and would make a nice secure overnight stop. Instead, we anchored near the marina entrance in the lee of the island. From this point on cruisers can move from anchorage to anchorage in minutes or an hour or so. There is no shortage of cays to visit and enjoy. Most are close enough to dinghy to the reef for diving or snorkeling, and the fishing is some of the finest we have found. Anchoring here can be a challenge because of the heavy growth of sea grass around the cays so looking for sandy patches is essential.

In search of deeper water

To get to the Belize City area we would have to pass through the infamous half-mile-wide Porto Stuck channel between Montejo Cay and Hicks Cay. It is called Porto Stuck for a good reason. This is a winding, shallow channel with little in the way of markers (actually tree branches with plastic bottles hanging on them) and a 5-1/2-foot depth at mean low water. That meant we must pass through just at high tide.

We left Cay Chapel at 8 a.m. and passed through Porto Stuck at 9:30 a.m., just about 20 minutes before the scheduled high tide. Some of the shallow depths were nail-biters, but we navigated through without parking Sea Trek. We only touched bottom in the trough of a wave just north of Porto Stuck.

There are also narrow, shallow channels that we needed to clear just south of there before we found ourselves in the deeper waters east of Belize City. One must use Ships Cay Bogue and not Swallow Cay Bogue unless you want to spend time waiting for high tide to lift you off the shoals. We settled on a great anchorage at the Drowned Cays behind Gallows Point. We picked our way carefully in until we had protection from all direction but west. These are mostly mangrove cays with many channels called bogues that can be explored by dinghy. We found several rusting wrecked barges in one of the bogues near our anchorage. These channels can be deep and, if careful, can be navigated and offer good all-around protection if bad weather threatens. We stayed here for two days.

In just six days we had traveled about a third of the way through the outer cays. All of the reports we had gotten before we arrived in Belize were all accurate. This is truly a wonderful tropical cruising ground that could take months of exploration.

Off The Beaten Path

2024-01-22T15:52:00.000-05:00

By 8:30 a.m. we had crossed the reef line and watched with regret as the beautiful beach at Tulum faded behind us. The weather forecast was for another perfect day with the exception of predicted light wind. Our destination was only 35 miles south of our current location, but it would be a motorsail all the way. As with our arrival, we were holding our distance from the reef line to approximately one mile, and as a result a favorable current of 1.5 knots helped move us along. Since we were under power and charging batteries from the engine we used the time to run the watermaker and fill our tanks. The system is 12 volts and takes around 25 amps, so the assist from the alternator was welcomed.

At around 10:30 a.m. I did my usual visual inspection of the bilge and engine compartment with no surprises. The autopilot was steering us effortlessly to our next waypoint and all was good with the world. It is days like this that make all our hard work and efforts to prepare for this trip totally worthwhile.

Around noon we were sitting in the cockpit contemplating lunch when the familiar sound of the fishing reel set us into action. We had done well on this part of the coast so we knew what to do. Susan eased the throttle back to idle and I grabbed the reel. Within a few minutes we had landed another blue fin tuna. We were beginning to wonder if any other species roamed these waters but we were not complaining. Once again, fresh tuna would grace the captain’s table for dinner. And fresh tuna salad is always one of Susan’s favorites for lunch.

A dramatic reminder

The break in the reef at Bahia Ascension is very wide and there are few or no breakers to show us the edges at the entrance. As we approached the bay we first noticed something large and white some distance off to our starboard. As we moved further along the reef we both determined what it was at about the same time. The shining white hull of a pretty good-size sailboat was lying on its side on the top of the reef — a dramatic reminder that a mistake along this coastline could be serious and disastrous.

We wondered aloud how the wreck might have happened. Did the boat lose steering and drift up on the reef? Did the crew make a fatal mistake in navigation? Was a storm responsible? The hull seemed pretty much intact so it must have only been there a short time. Anyone who has spent any time cruising will understand the feeling you get in the pit of your stomach anytime you encounter such a sight.

Now it was our turn to cross that same reef without mishap. We had been provided a set of waypoints by a friend in Isla Mujeras that had been in and out of here only a couple of weeks before. Even with first-hand waypoints we are always cautious and a little apprehensive. We had plotted them on our paper charts, and on the electronic charts on the computer as well as entering them into the GPS as part or our route. All seemed in agreement that we would enter with a good margin of safety.

The first waypoint was outside the reef line and put us in a good position to maneuver to the second waypoint inside the reef line. Even with good coordinates we still always maintain a watch on the foredeck and, when entering a pass, will even climb the rigging using our mast steps to get us high enough to get a good visual on the depths and the periphery of the reef pass. Our third waypoint put us well inside the bay. Our anchorage was a good five miles once we had crossed over the reef line. From our third waypoint the rest was all eyeball. We knew from information we had gathered and from our guidebook of the area that there was a shallow bar that extended almost a quarter-mile off the north end of Culebra Cay, where we planned to anchor. So from our third waypoint we headed directly for the north end of the cay, then maintained the quarter-mile distance once we were close in. We saw no less than 12 feet of water all the way to our anchoring spot on the west side of the cay. There we would have good protection from the swells that worked in from the sea as well as the prevailing easterly winds. As usual, things were going too easily.

An uninvited guest

It became apparent from the thick grass on the bottom and a few attempts to set the anchor that our CQR was not going to grab. Both our primary and secondary anchors are CQR so that meant switching one out for our Danforth. This takes a little time since we always make sure the anchor shackles are wired closed for safety. But by 3:30 p.m. local time we were anchored, and began to open the boat up and settle in for a few days of rest and relaxation. Almost as soon as we had the cockpit stowed and went below we heard a scratching sound on deck. We both noticed it and went topside to inspect. We both know that new sounds unfamiliar to us sometimes mean problems.

As we came out on deck we found a pigeon had landed on deck and was walking around as if disoriented or not well. This has happened in the past when a stray bird came in contact with our wind generator. This one did not have any visible injuries. But we also knew what kind of a mess birds make on the deck and canvas. So we made an attempt to coax her off and convince her to fly away. She would have none of it and ran around the deck staying just out of our reach. The end of any passage, no matter how short, is time to just relax, so we decided to leave the bird be for now and perhaps she would just leave later.

We went below and started planning dinner for the evening, and doing a few boat chores. Not giving the bird another thought we finally sat down at the table for dinner a couple of hours later, and suddenly noticed the bird standing outside the companionway screen watching us eat.

Since Susan is an old softy she insisted on giving her food and water. I warned her that if we did, the bird would move aboard, and reminded her of what the decks would look like the next morning — but she insisted. The bird stayed with us for another day and a half, then just flew away. No thank you or anything, just little deposits everywhere.

Questioning the guidebook

For the next couple of days we just relaxed and enjoyed our quiet and peaceful anchorage. The VHF radio is always on and we had picked up the conversations of two boats that were heading into the bay. They were happy to hear that we were already inside, and we gave them our waypoints in. We had also picked up a boat on the Northwest Caribbean Net that morning that was heading in, and we shared our waypoints. The anchorage was soon to get crowded. By that evening we were sharing the anchorage with two trawlers and a large motorsailer with friendly crews aboard. We found that we were all heading in the same general direction, for Belize. The folks on the motorsailer had just made a five-day passage from the United States.

The settlement at Punta Allen was about three miles due north of us in the bay. Our guidebook suggested it was unimpressive and not worth a visit. In addition, there was a naval base there and a visit could result in a hassle from officials.

One morning we happened to pick up a conversation on the VHF from a couple of boats that sounded close by. So we jumped in and introduced ourselves. We were surprised when they told us they were anchored near the settlement, and it was really a great little place and we should visit before we left. Within the hour we’d hauled up anchor and moved the three miles to the anchorage behind Punta Gorda.

After we splashed the dinghy we stopped to chat with one of the boats we had communicated with earlier. They gave us the scoop about the town and where everything could be found, including the new town-built dinghy dock, the local tiendas — or grocery stores — and the all-important Internet cafe.

We found the town delightful, and the people friendly and helpful. We learned they are trying hard to attract tourists since this area is famous for its fishing, and diving and snorkeling on the reefs. As evidence of their sincere intentions, it appeared they had converted every other house on every street into a restaurant.

We stayed another two days just to enjoy the settlement. The navy presence was never a problem, and they were always friendly and polite when we met them on the street. But we knew it was time to continue pushing south.

Be Flexible

2024-01-22T15:51:00.001-05:00

For years I have dreamed about visiting Mayan ruins — ever since I dug up that first tooth in my mother’s flowerbed at the age of 10. I thought I had found some wonderful artifact, but it was, in fact, an old cow’s tooth. Our property used to be pastureland. Oh well. I was still interested in archaeology and decided one day I would immerse myself in history. Tulum, about 80 miles south of Cancun on the Yucatan peninsula and until the 1960s accessible only by sea, seemed like the place to start. Chuck and I pored over the charts of the Mexican coast to decide our next stop after Punta Maroma. The number of good and accessible anchorages is few and far between on this part of the coast and getting caught in the wrong place in bad weather here can be downright dangerous.

Our weather reports indicated very light winds and no rain for the next several days. We had heard from a number of people that the anchorage at Tulum had poor holding and was good only in settled weather. Still, after talking to the vessel, Nueva Vida, on the SSB one morning and getting waypoints and a thumbs-up on the weather, Chuck agreed to go there.

We were told the reef pass was easy to navigate and the holding was better than at Punta Maroma. The ruins of Tulum sit up on a hill directly on the Caribbean Sea in Mexico.

Charting a course

Before we leave even for a daysail, my job is to get out the charts and plot our waypoints, being careful to ensure our course line does not go over any hazards or shoal spots. I draw lines with the parallel rulers between the waypoints, and measure and label the distance and compass heading, noting whether the course is magnetic or true. Sometimes we use the GPS in true mode to navigate to our waypoints. The waypoints are then written in the top of our logbook for that day and entered into the GPS to determine our route for this leg of the passage.

I picked a waypoint a bit offshore to stay away from the reefs, but remain close enough into shore to avoid the counter current. The waypoint was a half-mile or so from the reef pass. The next waypoint would be just outside the reef at Tulum and the last where we passed through the reef. From there, we would just turn north and run parallel to the beach, as instructed by the guidebook.

Making way without wind

We had little wind the morning we left Punta Maroma. We’d had a nice time there, but it was definitely time to head farther south. After crossing our earlier waypoint outside the reef, we turned to head southwest toward Tulum. We motorsailed all day, never having enough wind from the right direction to turn the engine off. Any time the engine is running for a period of time, it is our practice to do a visual inspection of the engine compartment and bilge every two hours, and make a note in the log. While cruising along like this it is customary for us to stream a fishing line behind the boat. Chuck will decide what lure he thinks will attract the fish that day, and put it over the side. We have a rod holder secured to the starboard stanchion amidships. Once the line is let out about 100 feet, Chuck ties the rod to the holder. It didn’t take long and we were reeling in a nice plump little blue fin tuna for dinner.

It was a beautiful sunny day and by mid-afternoon or so, the ruins of Tulum began to appear in the distance. I got the binoculars out and tried to make out the different buildings.

Navigating the pass

As we got closer, we realized a sailboat was heading north and about to enter the reef pass as well. Lady Galadriel had been a vessel we spoke to on the Northwest Caribbean Net on 8188 a number of times in the morning. Being polite, we told them to go ahead and go first. OK, so I’m a chicken. I wanted to follow someone else in. This time, Chuck stayed at the helm and I crawled up on the main boom to get a better look at the bottom as we came through the reef.

The “flat awash rock” reported in the reef break was somewhat visible and right where it was supposed to be. The reef pass was much wider than I had imagined. I always have these visions in my head of going through these narrow passes with 2 feet on either side of the boat and big aggressive coral reaching up to hole the hull.

In reality, the pass was probably 100 yards across. Once we cleared the reef Chuck turned to starboard and began to head north toward the ruins.

Lady Galadriel made her turn again to starboard and was preparing to anchor just behind the reef. We passed well behind them to stay out of their way, and went a little further down the beach. At that point, we switched positions and I was back on the helm to anchor. We then turned toward the reef and dropped the hook.

Pitching and rolling

After our usual routine of dropping anchor, paying out a good deal of chain, letting it settle, then backing down, we realized it was not holding. We pulled up, found a sandier patch, dropped the hook a second time and got it to hold.

That’s when we realized we had a problem. No, nothing was wrong with the boat, the engine, or the sails, it was the anchorage. The wind had died down leaving us sideways in the swells; we were rolling, pitching and yawing like crazy.

Lady Galadriel had asked us to stop by for a visit before we realized what kind of anchorage this was. We called them back on the VHF and politely declined. It was actually too rough to launch the dinghy from the davits and, at one point, Chuck asked me to cook dinner earlier than usual because he thought if he waited any longer, he might be seasick. We considered a stern anchor to keep us bow to the swells, but decided against that because of the rocky bottom. Plus our secondary anchor is rode with a short piece of chain, so we might have a problem with the line chafing through from the motion.

The problem here is that the reef is too shallow to break up the swells as they roll in toward the beach. They come unimpeded for hundreds of miles and, unless it has been flat calm for many days, this anchorage would not be comfortable. The difference between here and Punta Maroma was that the reef there was higher and actually almost dried at low tide. We had even tried to get behind a patch of reef that we thought was breaking more than the rest, to no avail. At this point I realized I would not be seeing Tulum on this trip. The word “untenable” comes to mind. If this is considered a fair-weather anchorage we could only imagine what it must be like in a hard blow with large seas.

Reality and the rules

I sat out in the cockpit until sunset and looked at the spectacular view of the beach, huts, ruins and people frolicking. There was a small palapa-style restaurant right on the beach. It was a beautiful place and we were saddened to know we could not spend one more night in this place. If we stayed to visit the ruins the next day we would not be able to get out in good light. The rolling continued all night and moving about below was quite an exercise in balance. We got up at sunrise, raised the anchor and made all due haste to the reef opening as soon as we had light enough to see it. I think next time I will follow the advice of other cruisers who stayed the night at Puerto Aventuras, a marina about 20 miles North of Tulum, and take the bus to the ruins. Live and learn the hard way, I always say. But enjoying ourselves while cruising means sticking to two important rules: Never keep a schedule and always be flexible.

As we left Tulum behind, for another time, we wondered what new experiences we would find at our next stop.

Seeing and Being Seen

2024-01-22T15:51:00.000-05:00

We had been anchored in the harbor at Isla Mujeres for two weeks. This was short by some others’ standards since many boats had been here for months and some even for years. This Caribbean island has much to offer so we do understand why many linger. From the tourist shops and restaurants in town to the reef at El Garrafon and the excellent beaches, the days are filled with all sorts of activities. But for us it was time to move on. A few days prior to departure we began the process of restocking the boat. This means provisioning for food, filling the water and fuel tanks, including the extra jerry jugs on deck. We also wanted to take an extra couple of days to finish a protective cover for the dinghy. Monitoring the weather forecast for several days finally gave us a departure date.

The departure drill

We have a pre-departure routine that is always followed without exception. This simple routine is done whether we are just planning a daysail or crossing an ocean. Some tasks we can take care of the night before, but usually we wait until just before we haul up anchor.

All necessary charts and guidebooks for the passage are at the helm or the nav station. We go through a checklist in our log, which includes checking all fluid levels in the engine, checking that all electronics and radios are working properly, and all through-hulls are secure.

In addition we note current as well as expected weather conditions. Our forecast was for east-northeast winds at 10 to 15 knots — absolutely perfect for our move to the south.

The anchor washdown system is activated and the time we begin to haul up the anchor is noted in our log. We also note how much fuel and water is on board. We turn on and test our two-way radio headsets for communicating between the helm and the foredeck. The engine is fired up and allowed to warm up for a few minutes. A visual inspection of the engine compartment and bilge is performed.

Under way again

At 7 a.m. we hauled up the anchor and got under way. By the time we had the chain and anchor washed off and hauled aboard, and moved out of the harbor, the morning net on VHF had begun. We said goodbye to all those we had met during our short stay, and motored south along the island on the same course we had come in on two weeks earlier. As usual at this time of the morning, the breeze was very light. Once we were out of the lee of the island it began to freshen, and we shut down the engine and raised all sails. Going past the beaches and hotels on Cancun we were amazed at how it reminded us of Miami. This resort area has prospered since its days as a small fishing village in the 1970s, and it is evident even from offshore. This would be a short run, since our destination of Punta Maroma — also affectionately known to cruisers in the area as Hut Point — was only a little more than 40 miles to the south.

The entire coast of Mexico here is paralleled by one of the longest barrier reef systems in the world. Any stops along this coast mean finding a break in the reef and negotiating it safely. That would be our challenge all the way to Belize. The other issue we would have to deal with is a strong 2- to 3-knot current running north along the coast. When you average 5 or 6 knots under sail in light conditions this can be a big factor. But if one follows the reef line at about a mile or two off, you can actually find a counter-current setting south of 1/2 to 1 knot. This passage is best done in daylight hours and during settled weather since the onshore winds could set a boat on the reef. Surf breaks on the reef almost the entire way down the coast, so even by sight you can see its location, and we found it did show up well on our radar screen. This was to be one of those perfect days that you read about in the cruising magazines.

Making the move

Around 2 p.m. we were at the GPS coordinates that had been given to us by our cruising friends for the break in the reef. Since this was to be our first run through a reef break we were a little apprehensive. With Susan at the helm, I climbed the mast steps to the spreaders to get a better read of the water and reef location. We could obviously see, even from deck level, where the reef stopped breaking. We had been told to stay about 200 feet south of where the breaking waves stopped. My climb up the mast confirmed this.

Each time we are in a situation like this we realize the value of our two-way radios. We would have liked to have had the sun behind us, but since we were heading west behind the reef that could not be. Still, everything went smoothly and we crossed behind the reef with 10 feet of water under the keel. About two-thirds of the way in toward the beach we turned north and ran parallel to the reef. Our guidebook noted the best anchorages were north of the resort located there and in the sandy patches. The bottom here is a thin layer of sand over hard coral, and there is a lot of turtle grass covering the bottom. The water is crystal clear so it’s easy to tell where the sandy patches are. Finding sandy patches would be our routine for anchoring for some time to come. After three attempts, following our usual anchoring procedures, we finally were able to set the anchor just before 3 p.m. The water behind the reef was flat and comfortable. We made sure we were anchored behind an area that was breaking fairly heavily since that meant the swells were being knocked down by the reef. We began shifting into our at anchor mode, not yet realizing this would prove to be an interesting anchorage.

Taking in the sights

On cue the winds dropped after sunset and we had a very peaceful night. The next morning dawned an almost perfect day. After the morning SSB nets, retrieval of weather faxes and breakfast, we began to explore. As is found along this entire coast, we were anchored off a beautiful white beach. Tall palms waved in the wind and the occasional Casuarina Pine dotted the coastline.

There is also a small resort here. We saw several large catamarans and tied to their dock, and a series of small powerboats with large outboards beached. Shortly after we were up and about, the first of the catamarans came out to the reef loaded with tourists for a snorkel excursion. They would be ferrying the tourists back and forth all day. On our first day we had designated one of the cats “the naked boat” since it had obviously been chartered by a group of nudists. They came close by us and invited us to “take it off.”

Circle the wagons

Suddenly, all of the small outboard powerboats on the beach launched one after another. They seemed to be playing a game of follow the leader with an employee of the resort as the leader. He would take them out and have each one follow in his wake as he did figure eights, circles and other geometric shapes, all at maximum speed. At some point another boat would station itself in a designated spot and the leader would bring his followers close in to the stationary boat. At that point the tourists would have their picture taken as they sped past the photo boat. This, too, went on three or four times a day. We found they took great delight in making our boat a tourist attraction, which made us think of what the early settlers must have felt like as their circled wagon trains were surrounded by the Indians. However, the boaters were always friendly and everyone waved as they went past.

Observing the tourists

We decided to do a little snorkeling on the reef and exploring of the beach and resort ourselves. We were disappointed with the condition of the reef. It was obviously distressed and damaged, and fish were scarce. A trip to the beach offered a few more surprises. The resort has a very nice restaurant right on the beach. The rooms looked inviting and all of the grounds were well-kept. At the far end of the resort area on the beach we found a line of tourists standing next to a couple of horses. Each tourist would get on the horse, which had no saddle, and a resort employee would walk the horse into the water. When the horse and rider were walking back out of the water after circling a piling, another employee took their picture, but they never actually rode the horse anywhere. We finally figured out how the package worked. The tourists were bussed in each day in shifts. When they arrived they were taken to the reef for snorkeling. On the way back to the dock the boat would anchor and the spinnaker would be raised. Anyone could sit on a plank attached to the spinnaker and ride it up as the wind filled it. There was lots of screaming and squealing with delight. Next they returned to the dock and hit the beach where the powerboats were waiting. They would then play the follow the leader game for maybe 20 to 30 minutes. After returning to the beach they would then be taken to the line for the horse in the water ride. After that they ate and drank in the restaurant, boarded their bus and returned from whence they came. This process continued all day until about 5 p.m., then we would have the anchorage back to ourselves.

This was amusing to watch, but after five days of swimming, beach walks, and boat wakes, we were ready to move on again, especially since we had only planned to be here overnight. More new experiences awaited us.

Let It Begin Florida Keys to Guatemala

2024-01-22T15:50:00.000-05:00

We crossed the bar at 7 a.m. just as we had planned. Well, almost, since we originally thought we would be here yesterday. But today worked out even better after our rain delay because an astronomically high tide of a little better than 2 feet gave us more water to cross over and transit the shallow harbor into Livingston, Guatemala

Sea Trek’s full keel and 6-foot draft make playing the tides an important part of our navigation process. We don’t run aground like other boats — we park.

By 7:30 a.m. the anchor was down off the Municipal Dock and the Q flag was up. All we had to do was wait for the officials to come out to us to start the clearance process. It all went quickly and the officials were the friendliest we have met in all of our travels. After a short trip to town to finish the paperwork process, and the purchase of a few items at the grocery store, we headed back to the boat and hauled up the anchor. We motored across the harbor toward “the gorge.”

As we entered this narrow lower part of the Rio Dulce we were awestruck. Shear cliffs rose above our masts to more than 300 feet, but they were covered with lush green tropical foliage that reached right down to the water. Even with the drone of the engine we could hear the sounds of the jungle above us. Sitting at the helm, and with Susan on the bow watching for river debris, I tried to absorb it all. The contrast of the emerald water, the dense green vegetation and the narrow strip of crystal clear blue sky above was almost overwhelming. It was at that point that I really began to reflect back to the beginnings of our adventure.

Getting started

After waiting for parts, weather, and taking care of last-minute preparations, we untied the dock lines for the last time and pulled out of our slip in Marathon, Fla. We actually began this cruise six years ago, but for a while seemed doomed by last-minute health problems, family issues and financial setbacks that delayed us time after time. At one point this included a 1,200-mile detour in the opposite direction.

The marina was quiet that morning: No fanfare or bands playing to our farewell. We just quietly pulled out into Hawks Channel and motored about seven miles west to Boot Key Harbor.

One last problem needed our attention. During the insurance survey for this trip it was determined that the cutless bearing was worn. We decided to have it replaced now so it didn’t create a problem later. The stop was short and the repairs quickly made at Marathon Boatyard. Sea Trek moved out of the Travelift bay and made a short trip out into Boot Key Harbor where we again anchored and waited for weather.

After a day or so of strong winds coming from the direction we were going and a few squalls now and then, the weather turned calm and we motored the 50 miles to visit with friends in Key West and say goodbye. Living in Marathon we had forgotten the throngs of boats coming and going in Key West Harbor. Cruise ships docking at the main piers, tour boats in an endless parade and the ever-present sportfishing boats (waking everything and everyone) greeted us as we made the turn and headed for our anchorage behind Garrison Bight.

Boats of all sizes and shapes were anchored everywhere outside the channel. Our plan was to spend a few days here, then move on to the Dry Tortugas 70 miles west of us. There we would wait for a weather window to cross to Mexico. Our go-to guy for weather, Herb Hilgenberg on Southbound II, was telling us that the forecast did not looking promising for some time. So we waited another 10 days for things to improve.

During that time, our daily discussions with Herb on the SSB radio about the weather patterns and Gulf Stream currents brought us to a change in our direction to reach Isla Mujeres.

The accepted route is to cross the Gulf Stream twice. Heading south from the Keys, most boats cross directly to the coast of Cuba, find the counter currents that usually run about 12 miles out, then follow the coast until just due south of Cabo San Antonio. From that point, most turn west and make a run for Isla Mujeres, crossing the Stream again, except it is now the Yucatan Current. But Herb’s research of the currents in the areas that we would cover revealed that the currents were very close to the Cuban coast and would be against us most of the way. Instead, we determined that a better plan would be to go due west into the Gulf of Mexico until we reached a waypoint of about 24 degrees north and 088 degrees west, then turn to the south heading for Isla Mujeres.

On April 20, with the outlook for good weather, we left Key West behind and had a great sail with winds on our port quarter to the Marquesas Keys about 25 miles west. Again we planned to go to the Tortugas for a few days and visit with our friends who bring the tourists out to the fort on the big catamarans. A check with Herb that evening told us our weather window was now and might not look better. So the following morning we pulled up the anchor and changed our plans. We were heading for Mexico.

Promises kept

Our first day out was a perfect sail: Wind on the starboard quarter, as promised, and soon after we left the shallow waters of the Keys the seas flattened out. Herb had been right on the money regarding the currents, and we did indeed have a favorable current with us for all but six hours of the entire passage.

On Day 2, also as predicted, we lost all of our wind and the Gulf of Mexico took on the characteristics of a swimming pool. That meant motoring. One of our under way routines is to do a check of the bilges and the engine compartment about every three hours. This has headed off many problems in the past. During one of these inspections the gauge on the Racor fuel filter was starting to show a vacuum. This means the filter is dirty and will soon clog. So off went the engine and I did my first filter change in the Middle of the Gulf of Mexico. Since sea conditions were calm, the change went quickly and easily.

The rest of the passage went smoothly. A combination of sailing, motoring and motorsailing brought us off the southeastern tip of Isla Mujeres at around 2 a.m. We had excellent waypoints to get us up the channel on the western side of the island and with a bright full moon that you could almost read by, we dropped anchor about a mile off the island. With the moon and crystal-clear water we could see the anchor drop in the white sand below, even though it was still only 3 a.m.

The entire passage took us 68 hours — short by offshore standards — so we did not have the time to get into a good rhythm for sleeping and watch standing. Although very tired and looking forward to a good night’s sleep, we both just stood together on deck thinking that if we really closed our eyes we might wake up in our slip in Marathon and once again this was just a dream. But not this time. Our adventure had finally begun.

Preparations For Cruising

2024-01-22T15:48:00.000-05:00

The true meaning of cruising plans are “made in jello” came to live with us several years ago. We had quit our jobs in the Florida Keys, sold our car and were ready to get underway when we had one parent die and the other become injured and need to go into nursing care. That idea that cruisers need to be flexible and change their plans at a moments notice was clearer to us at that moment than at any other since we moved aboard 17 years ago. Instead of turning right outside of our channel, we turned left and started heading North. After getting things settled up North, we were then underway in the ICW heading South after putting our cruising plans on hold for a year and a half and working in the Baltimore/Annapolis area.

You can generally predict the first question people ask you when you tell them you are quitting your job. “Oh, where are you going?” To be able to predict their response when you tell them you are sailing your boat from the Chesapeake Bay to San Diego is not quite so simple. The responses have ranged from “That is so cool!” to simply looks of amazement and open mouths. Once the shock has passed, another barrage of questions begins.

How much money do you have to save to cruise per year?

The answer to that differs for each person. If you have a bottomless pit from which to pull dollars or pesos, you really don’t need to read this, but for most of us, cruising is a break from reality to which we eventually have to return. Unfortunately, we still have a boat payment, so that is a given each month before we even begin to consider other expenses. What we did do in the past few years was to take advantage of the lower interest rates and refinance our boat, making our boat payments $110 dollars less a month! Any payment like this is automatically deducted from our money market account so we are not trying to mail payments from small islands with questionable mail service. (We sent “certified” mail from the Dominican Republic a few years back and it never made it back to Baltimore.)

A trusted friend or relative might also handle payments that need to be made on a regular basis. If the payments and dates are fixed, a good solution might be to write out the checks for each month, put each in an envelope pre-addressed and stamped and date the bottom left hand corner as to when it will need to be mailed. This eliminates the guesswork and makes the process easier for the person assisting you.

Back to my original question, how much do you have to save? We take our monthly fixed expenses and add about $1,250 to that and get our budget. We have talked to many people who are living on $800 per month pensions and do okay as long as they don’t have any major breakdowns. We traditionally have had expensive problems so budget that into each month, then hope we don’t have to spend it. Some months cruising in remote places have seen us spend only $500. If there is no place to spend money, it gets to stay in your pocket. We don’t go out to dinner, but chose lunch on occasion instead. It is cheaper and we still get to treat ourselves. We are also much more comfortable being back on the boat at night. Due to our set monthly obligations, spending habits and past experience, I like to have $1750 in the bank per month for each month you anticipate cruising, with a $3 –4000 buffer to set up camp when you reach your destination. That should hopefully cover a used car and dockage until you can find work and get some money rolling back in. For those of you who are permanently retired, the buffer will be good for those unexpected surprises or airfare.

What do you do about health insurance?

We have made the decision to cruise without health insurance. Some people think that is crazy and foolhardy, but for our budget, $350 per month means the difference between going and not going. That is each person’s decision. What we do is try to anticipate what medications we may need for the duration of the cruise and stock up on them. Most doctors will get on board (no pun intended) with the program if you let them know you will be in remote places for a long period of time and need to have antibiotics, anti-malaria drugs, etc. on board. We keep a Merck’s medical manual, an emergency medical advice book as well as some homeopathic remedy books on board. If one of us comes down with something, we research the symptoms until we figure it out if a medical person is not available. We have also found that good medical care is indeed available outside the US at a fraction of the cost. We don’t encourage others to adopt our philosophy, since each must determine their own needs and expectations.

How do you know what to provision? What do you take with you?

This would be another, of many times we have gone cruising for a year or more. We have learned to only take what you use. Extra stuff just takes up space for things that you really need. I start by buying a ton of paper towels and toilet paper. Almost everything comes out of our big hanging locker and it becomes the paper product locker. We also purchase cases of already cooked canned meats from a company called Werling and Sons in Ohio. There are a number of other companies that folks use; we just have always used Werling. The delivery is prompt, the product is good and the cost is reasonable. I ordered 4 cases for our last cruise and had a lot left over so only got 3 this time. We rarely are unable to find food. We also take canned vegetables and fruit, enough to last about 6 weeks. If we get to a place we really like, we don’t want to have to leave for lack of provisions. We stock our small Adler Barbour freezer with as much frozen meat as we can. Take ground beef, etc. out of its original packaging and place in freezer bags to maximize space, which allows you to fit more in. Sea Trek also gets stocked with cereal, snacks, sodas, and whatever other items you really like and are afraid you won’t be able to find outside of the country. Always eliminate extra cardboard and packaging and try to store as much as you can in zipper storage bags or airtight containers. You may want to try inserting a bay leave into each baggie of food to deter bugs. (They tell me that bugs don’t like bay leaves, but who knows.)

Because we like particular hygiene products, I buy enough of those to last us for the duration - razors, deodorant, shampoo, toothpaste and those sorts of things. I also purchase enough vitamins, cotton swabs and balls, stomach remedies and the like to last the entire length of our trip. This action was spurned on by the cost of Pepto Bismol in the Bahamas!! I also don’t want to have to look for sensitive toothpaste in a 3rd world country. We keep a storage list of where everything, and I mean everything, is on the boat. If we forget where we put something, we simply look it up in the computer or on the hard copy that we print out. After you bury things deep in your bilge, you will be glad you took the time to take inventory.

What kind of gear and safety equipment do you have on board?

This is an area unto itself, but I’ll try to keep it short, starting from the bow. Check your ground tackle. We didn’t like the looks of our 1st 100 feet of chain a decided to replace it. It was a bit too rusty and we could not find anyone in a multi state area to re-galvanize. Also make sure your ground tackle is adequate. We use a 45-pound CQR with 200 feet of chain and 150 feet of rode as our primary, with a 35-pound CQR with 25 feet of chain and 150 feet of rode as our secondary. This has served us well except for the one time we got lazy in Georgetown South Carolina and didn’t back down on it like we usually do. We had a close encounter with a shrimp boat at 3:00 am and got the engine on and SeaTrek moving forward just in time! Sea Trek survived Hurricanes Georges in the Florida Keys, Floyd on the Wye River in Maryland and Irene in North Carolina on this tackle.

We added a life raft after our trip to the Bahamas. It is a 6 person raft. We figured if we got stranded, we might as well have some room to move about. It is serviced and repacked according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. We hope we never have to use it and that it was an invaluable insurance policy.

After 10 years and at least 2 biminis, we went with a hard top. It is built out of ¾ inch starboard with an aluminum frame built by a local welder. We then constructed side curtains led through tracks attached to 1 x 3 teak strips, which are screwed to the hardtop. There are side panels as well as a back panel. Two separate smaller panels cover the walkway areas to connect the sides to the windshield by snaps. The dodger also had been replaced at least twice and was replaced with a clear, heavy duty plastic windshield with a starboard hard top. Now we just have to remember not to stand up quickly! The hardtop is not as forgiving as the bimini.

In order to be able to communicate more effectively with people from long distances, Susan got her General Class ham license with the Morse code endorsement. We had a SSB, but now have a radio capable of both ham and single side band.

Additionally, we need an email fix on a regular basis so we also purchased a Pactor IIe modem. It works like a charm and we can keep in touch with loved ones from afar. This is very beneficial for those of us with elderly parents. It also provides us with valuable weather information.

We have asked a lot of our little autopilot that gets connected to the wheel steering in the cockpit so decided on a heavy duty below decks hydraulic autopilot. After having the smaller one shipped back to the US last time and hand steering from Mayaguana to Luperon, we decided we needed to upgrade as the one we had wasn’t quite up to the task for heavy weather steering. Although costly, it is well worth the expense and is like having another crewmember on board without the messy bunk and stomach to feed. We made the decision to upgrade to a unit considerably larger than needed. We are sure this will pay off later.

Besides new equipment, much of the existing equipment received maintenance and repair. The watermaker got a thorough cleaning and check. The radar unit was not working properly and went back to the manufacturer for service. The wind generator came down. It was vibrating a bit and we know now small things lead to bigger problems later. We corrected the vibration, lubricated the bearings and gave the housing a fresh coat of paint. When that was not sufficient, it went back to the manufacturer, who did a much better job than we did and it is now working wonderfully. All onboard systems received a thorough check. Anything suspect was corrected or replaced. Every battery operated item on board got new batteries and we made sure an adequate supply was on hand. Pumps, alarms and safety equipment were priority issues. All outdated equipment in the life raft was replaced with the repack but there is still the boat equipment to consider; replacing expired flares, old life jackets and more.

On board electrical demands is a concern for all cruisers. A wind generator, solar panel and the engine alternator had served us well for many years. But our demands have grown. One of the decisions to add the hard top over the cockpit was to enable us to add additional solar panels. Four would have been preferred, but two were settled for. We also opted for a larger alternator on the engine. Cost was a big factor. At some point you have to stop spending and adding to, and go. The addition of 12-volt refrigeration, below decks autopilot, computer and more made the decision for us.

We have chosen to run our AC appliances from an inverter rather than add a generator. Aside from the noise factor, we don’t want another system to maintain. Our 110-volt needs are few. The 1500-watt inverter will power the TV, VCR, microwave and all of our power tools.

Our family car (the dinghy) had proven to be dependable but very wet in most conditions we encountered. We upgraded to a RIB with larger tubes and a flare at the bow. This proved to be a much drier ride. It only followed that our outboard was too small so it too was upgraded.

This is one piece of equipment that some cruisers don’t give serious consideration until well into their journey. It becomes the most used equipment on the boat and can make the difference between some very enjoyable times or sitting on the boat watching others have all the fun.

The electronics received a complete check and cleaning. Yes cleaning. All connections, plugs and battery terminals were cleaned and tested. We carry two GPS units since this is a very important navigational tool. We have also gone high tech and have a laptop, which allows us to use the latest chart and navigation software, receive weatherfax over the HF radio and be able to do email wherever we are on the planet. Consequently, we have a back up laptop also. Radios, antennas, ground planes and potential interferences on the boat were all checked and corrected as needed. It is so much easier to do it now, than when parts and assistance are not readily available. We also decided to update our VHF to the latest version with the remote mike for the cockpit.

We decided to take down the spars, repaint them and replaced any suspect rigging. This was a lengthy process and is deserving of its’ own space. As you can see, the preparation appears daunting, but don’t let that stop you and keep you at the dock. We want to cruise while we are fit enough to enjoy it and young enough to have the energy needed to make such a long journey. Also, don’t forget to prepare your family and friends for your departure. Sometimes, that is the hardest preparation of all.

About The Boat

2024-01-22T15:46:00.000-05:00

Sea Trek is a Mariner 40 Ketch designed by Clair Oberly and built in the Tayana yard in Taiwan. Her keel was laid late in 1978, she was finished in 1979 and shipped to the United States and commissioned by her first owner in 1980. She is a very traditional, heavy displacement (15 tons) extremely well-built offshore cruiser. We purchased her in March of 1992 of moved aboard almost immediately. The previous owner had not abused her but also had not used her much. The equipment list was short so we pretty much started from scratch. She has a lot of teak on deck to keep us busy and a beautiful all-teak interior.

Short trips on the Chesapeake Bay showed us the basics we would need. Our first weekend brought about our first addition. Bringing up the anchor from some muddy bottoms encouraged us to immediately install a good wash down system on the foredeck. The basic electronics such as speed, depth and wind instruments came very soon after. She had a VHF but it was old and also was replaced. Our first cruising plans were to head down the ICW to the Bahamas for an initial shakedown. Creature comforts as well as safety equipment took priority. The previous owner believed that the only way to cook on a boat was with an electric skillet and a microwave. He had a large microwave gimbaled in where a stove should go. We made the decision right from the beginning to do all of the installations ourselves as long as it did not endanger the safety and integrity of the vessel. Our first major project was a three burner propane stove with an oven. That meant we needed to completely install the entire propane system. This and all following installs were done according to all manufacturers and AYBS standards of safety and gave us a head start on repairs should something break.

We tried different types of dinghies from the hard rowing type to our final decision for a rigid hull inflatable. One of our friends came walking down the dock one day with a pair of beautiful stainless steel dinghy davits they had just remove from their boat. They ask us if we wanted them and before he finished asking I had them off his shoulder and sitting in our cockpit. The dinghy has almost never spent an night in the water since then.

Other than the normal and required safety equipment we were still pretty basic. But those creature comforts are what makes a cruising experience a pleasant one or a camping trip on the water. We installed a power inverter to run our small appliances and tools as opposed to a generator. We decided we could always change this later on. We never did. New cushions and blinds on the ports had the boat looking much more homey. With the inverter and more electronics we knew we would need a better source to keep the batteries up. Initially we installed a Four Winds wind generator as a starting point. It kept up on that first Bahamas trip but as we added over the years we also added three 85 watt solar panels.

That first cruise taught us a lot. We needed a good source of weather when not available through VHF or TV. At first, a small transistor SSB receiver hooked to our laptop got us weatherfax and text weather forecasts. As our cruising expanded we joined all of our fellow cruisers with a SSB which of course did much more than our tiny receiver. Even later Susan received her ham license and we added ham radio to our communications. The 406 EPIRBs came into their own and we added those. A liferaft was next since we knew longer offshore passages were on the horizon. Over the years we have added new full batten sails to replace the originals. Our Perkins 4-108 proved to be woefully underpowered for the boat so a new Yanmar took a big bite out of the cruising kitty. We have added a microwave, DVD/VHS recorder and player and a new LCD HD TV. Our original outdated autopilot did not survive that first trip down the ICW so we installed a heavy-duty below decks hydraulic pilot that was designed for boats up to 75 feet and it has paid for itself over and over. One lesson we learned right off was not to buy cheap, ask others who have been out there, and always go bigger than you think you will need.

On this last trip we replaced the canvas bimini and dodger with a hardtop that I designed from aluminum frame and Starboard, with a clear Lexan windshield. This has been a fantastic improvement. It allows us to completely enclose the cockpit like a pilothouse and gives us a good place to mount some of the solar panels. A plus lets me climb on top of it to deal with the mizzen. Radar, dual GPS units, a chartplotter, a new stereo set up and just recently a new central AC/Heat unit rounds out just some of the improvements we made along the way, The AC only runs when plugged into the dock by the way. We also found that a watermaker was much needed after that first trip. These are only some of the upgrades we have done. She has custom non skid decks, electric windlass, custom seats on the foredeck and in the cockpit and the list goes on and on.

We carry 78 gallons of fuel which gives us a cruising range under power of about 400 miles. We carry additional plastic jugs on deck with extra fuel for long passages or when in areas where fuel stops are few and far apart. Our water tank hold 100 gallons and can be refilled endlessly from the watermaker. Our draft is 6 feet and although sometimes a bit of a concern, it has not kept us form any cruising grounds. Over the years we have AwlGripped the boat form the waterline to the masthead. She has never experienced the problems many Tawain boats have had with leaks and deck problems. Perhaps that is due to our diligent maintenance or testimony to her solid construction.

To us she is the perfect cruising liveaboard and although she is unlike the new modern "cruisers" with 5 cabins that sleep 12 and can entertain 16 at dinner she is for us, very comfortable, and not too overwhelming should something happen and perhaps only one of us would need to get her home. Her solid construction give us that feeling of safety and well being no matter what the conditions. She has kept us safe and sane through 15 named storms, a few offshore gales and just a bunch of crappy weather. Don't know if you can tell but we kinda like our boat. Fair Winds

Ice Cream Stops Along the ICW

2013-11-07T20:52:00.000-05:00

By Susan Landry, Published in September 2012 Issue Cruising World Magazine.

How many of you will admit to planning your overnight stops along the ICW to coincide with your favorite ice cream shop? I know there are more than just the two of us who think about that creamy, delicious cone waiting at our next favorite stop. After cruising up and down the ICW for almost 20 years, we have definitely found some yummy temptations.

But first, some interesting ice cream tidbits. Although the Chinese have been making flavored ices well before the birth of Christ, the Italians and French claim to have made the first containing milk or cream in the 1600s. Ice cream’s first mentions in U.S. history were around 1700.

Also, have you ever wondered why the ice cream you get in parlors is so much tastier than anything you ever find at the supermarket? That is because many of those creamy concoctions never see the inside of a grocery store. Ice cream manufacturers, such as Greenwood in Georgia and Working Cow in Florida, produce their ice creams only for restaurants and parlors. But now, down to the business of identifying those special places to feed your cravings.

The Chesapeake - Virginia

We found a new “add to the top 10” ice cream shop on our recent trip down the ICW – Chitterchats in Reedville, VA. We had been eating dinner in the nearby, Crazy Crab restaurant, and I had been tempted to try their Key Lime Pie (hmmm…another whole article on “Best Key Lime Pie on the Waterway”). Our dining companions said, “oh no, if you are craving sweets, you must go to Chitterchats.” This shop is exactly what one would expect from an ice cream shop. Plenty of tables and chairs, brightly painted and smiling faces behind the counter. The owner is usually there with her staff to great customers. Then, the big decision; which flavor to chose. My husband always goes for the chocolate. And the more chocolatey (is that even a word?), the better. I tend to go for really sweet and decadent. I overheard the word coconut, even though I hadn’t seen that particular selection as I gazed longingly through the glass at the creamy, dreamy selections. “Coconut?” I asked. “We have all of the flavors on the board, not just the ones in the display case,” the smiling young girl said. “I’ll have one scoop of coconut and one of peanut butter/oreo/white chocolate,” I replied. My husband went for, you guessed it, Chocolate Decadence. In retrospect, I think this shop may be in our top 5. Word has it, locals also go here for the latest gossip, hence the name. I’ll go back for the ice cream, thanks. What a treat!

North Carolina

After you come down the Cape Fear River, preferably not in rolling, breaking waves with wind and current opposed, and you pull into the Provision Company for some nice fresh seafood, why not top off your meal with, wait for it, ice cream! All you have to do is walk out the front door of the restaurant, which by the way has great food and service, turn left and you will see ICE CREAM, in big letters at Flava’s. You can’t miss it. This day’s selections would be Rocky Road for the hubby (chocolate all the way) and Birthday Cake for me. I have a confession to make. I really have a thing for Birthday Cake ice cream. You get the painfully sweet icing part, usually blue, little bits of yummy cake and, if you are lucky, some crunchy bits of brightly colored white chocolate. My granddaughter and I share this passion. I tried their Birthday Cake and it was good. A nice end to a seafood meal.

South Carolina

After you pass through the hustle and bustle of Little River and the Rock Pile, you’ll need to stop at Barefoot Landing. Otherwise, you’ll have difficulty passing the Maggie Moos beckoning you right next to the Waterway. You may save your waistline if there is no room to tie up, but rest assured, another stop awaits you less than a day’s cruise away.

I can not count how many times we have been into Harvest Moon ice cream in Georgetown, but there is a second shop, Sweeties, there as well. When nothing but a cold cone will do, either of these shops will fit the bill. Both shops are right on Front Street. The selections are plentiful and again, service with a smile. Who wouldn’t like working in an ice cream shop??

Beaufort has their ice cream shop, Southern Sweets Ice Cream Parlor, hidden in the Old Bay Marketplace on Bay Street. Across the street from the waterfront, you will enter the mall. Near the entrance on the right, tucked quietly away, is the ice cream parlor. They have many selections to chose from and this is a true, old-fashioned store. Marilyn and Jack Sheehy started the parlor in 2001 and are wonderful hosts. They serve Greenwood ice cream and Marilyn has even added a lunch menu with homemade salads. Stop by to say hello and sample one of the many flavors. You are also invited to create your own frozen concoction and have it named for you.

Georgia

It is well worth the trip up the Savannah River to sample Leopold’s Ice Cream. They have been in business for almost 100 years and all of the ice cream is made on the premises from their own secret recipes. A short walk down Abercorn to Broughton Street from the waterfront will have you there in no time. This place is a feast for the eyes and ears as well with 10 cent jukebox and original décor.

Florida

Fortunately, you don’t have to go far into Florida to get your first fix. Fernandina Beach houses probably one of the most visited ice cream shops along the Waterway. About four blocks from the marina, this gem, Fantastic Fudge, makes and sells fudge and other candy. Their Birthday Cake ice cream is some of the best that I have ever had. Fantastic Fudge proudly sells Florida’s own Working Cow ice cream. You will likely find a line here, which is fine. One, you get more time to make up your mind and two, you know it must be good if this many people are waiting in line for it. I have to recommend the Raspberry Haze.

You won’t have to walk far from the Stuart waterfront to find ice cream. It boasts a Kilwin’s, G&G Gelato and Kelly’s Kones all within a three or four block radius! One’s too crowded, keep going to the next one! We just can’t walk past Kilwin’s without stopping.

Although not technically ice cream, it is a frozen treat and also my other fave dessert - the frozen key lime pie on a stick dipped in dark chocolate. Of course, this had to have originated in Key West. The Blond Giraffe and other key lime pie companies sell this sweet feast for the taste buds. You can find this in the Keys at a number if locations. I had the good fortune to find dipped cheesecake on a stick at a boat show on the Chesapeake last summer. I suggested to the guy he might want to branch out into key lime pie…

So, I’ve come to the realization that I will never be skinny again and will have the perpetual muffin top, but darn, ice cream at the end of a long, hot day on the ICW sure is worth it. At least you have to walk to and from the boat to find it. That should be enough exercise to work it off, right? Meanwhile, this last trip has meant some extra pounds. Back to walking! And not past ice cream shops…

PROBLEM WITH MUSTANG INFLATABLE PFDS

2012-10-11T15:36:00.001-04:00

Distributed by the Office of Investigations and Analysis: Http://marineinvestigations.us

October 4, 2012 Alert 3-12
Washington, DC
PROBLEM WITH MUSTANG INFLATABLE PFDS

The Coast Guard has become aware of certain Mustang Survival Inflatable PFDs with Hammar MA1 hydrostatic (HIT) inflation systems which may not inflate and require a new re-arm kit to properly inflate by manual or automatic activation. This safety alert identifies which products are affected. Certain inflatable PDFs may be subject to delayed or non-inflations. To determine if you are impacted please follow the instructions below.

USCG Approval Mustang Product
N/A MA7214 HIT inflatable re-arm kit
N/A MA7218 HIT inflatable re-arm kit for LIFT
160.076/8611/0 MD0450 Inflatable Vest PFD with LIFT
160.076/5204/0 MD0451 Inflatable Vest PFD with LIFT (no harness)
160.076/5201/0 MD3183 Deluxe Inflatable PFD with HIT
160.076/8608/0 MD3184 Deluxe Inflatable PFD with HIT (with harness)
160.076/5300/0 MD3188 Inflatable Work Vest/PFD with HIT
160.053/116/0 MD3188 Inflatable Work Vest/PFD with HIT

If you have a re-arm kit MA7214 or MA7218 you need only to check the lot number on the CO2 cylinder label. If your CO2 cylinder is marked with lot numbers 404121 or 404122 please contact Mustang Survival’s customer service group at the number below.

If you have a PFD listed above refer to the sewn-in approval label to determine if it was “Made in Canada” and the “MFG DATE” is April or May 2012. If so, you will need to check the lot numbers of the CO2 cylinder. The CO2 cylinder lot number is visible through the yellow bladder fabric. Manually unpack your PFD by opening the zippers and unfolding your PFD. Find the CO2 cylinder that is attached to the round inflator within the yellow bladder. Press the yellow bladder fabric against the cylinder to read the label to view the lot number through the fabric. If your CO2 cylinder is marked with lot numbers 404121 or 404122, please contact Mustang Survival’s customer service group for instructions and to arrange for a replacement inflator assembly.

All other CO2 cylinder lot numbers are satisfactory. Repack your PFD so it is ready for use per the instruction manual. Mustang Survival Customer Service Group: 1-800-526-0532

Additional information is available at www.mustangsurvival.com/HIT. Please note the following photographs.

Distributed by the Office of Investigations and Analysis: Http://marineinvestigations.us To subscribe: Kenneth.W.Olsen@uscg.mil

Photograph showing view of lot number through fabric. Lot number on cylinder label.

This Safety Alert is provided for informational purposes and does not relieve any foreign or domestic requirement. Developed by the Lifesaving and Fire Safety Division, United States Coast Guard Headquarters, Washington, DC. For additional information contact Mr. Martin Jackson at Martin.L.Jackson@uscg.mil.

Can You Sink A Boat For Lack Of A One Dollar Bolt??

2012-09-21T14:03:00.002-04:00

I suppose theoretically it's possible. But can you really repair a 30-year-old radar unit for $30.00? I am here to tell you that you absolutely can, if the problem is the same as ours. Not long ago, I fired up our Raytheon RL70 radar unit and it all started fine. Once it was going, however, the beam was doing the sweeps, but there were no targets on the display. An internal self diagnostic showed everything was working okay, but obviously it wasn't. This unit is long past its manufacturing date and it's highly doubtful if Raymarine will even fix these any more or if it's worth it. So trying a few things couldn't hurt.

A short climb up our mast, and a little gymnastics, allowed me to remove the end of the cable from the back of the scanner. The weak link in these units has always been the fragile 8-pin plug that attaches the cable to the scanner and provides all of the data the display needs to function properly. The wires are very small and the flat plastic plug is very easy to damage. Upon further inspection, I found two wires that virtually came apart once I started moving them around. So the problem became obvious. But was the solution going to be simple? I considered doing some kind of direct connection between the wiring in the scanner and the cable. How complicated that would be was hard to tell without taking everything apart. So on to the computer for research. It seems this is a common problem and many folks either replaced the entire radar or replaced the cable with a used one purchased somewhere online like from Ebay or from individuals who were upgrading and had working units they wanted to sell. But well into about 10 pages on Google Search, I found a reference to a Raymarine part to repair the plug. But did Raymarine still sell the part?

It turns out that they do. An online search shows it's even available at Amazon.com and Raymarine will sell the product, part number R126, directly. It's only about $20, and with shipping, brought it to about $30.

The pins require a special crimping tool, which I don't have, but I was successful in crimping the pins with a pair of needle nose pliers. Care also needs to be taken to be sure that the wires are in the right sequence and that the pins are inserted into the plug in the correct orientation. They will actually snap into place and not be pushed back out when the plug is inserted if they are installed correctly. With the new plug attached and inserted in the scanner, and the power wires reconnected, it was time for the moment of truth.

And it works. Considering that a new radar unit would cost us about $3,000, I think this $30 investment really paid off. Sure we would like to have the latest and greatest in broadband radar. But we mostly use the unit for tracking rain squalls and keeping an eye out when we are running at night or in fog. Our aging RL70 will do that just fine, so we will use the savings for something more urgent or to splurge a bit while we're cruising.

Let us know what minors repairs you made that saved you major dollars. Click on the comments and share your story.

What Do You Do When You Get To The Bahamas?

2012-08-15T17:23:00.002-04:00

Is It Really Better In The Bahamas??

This is a follow to our post, What Cruisers Want To Know About The Bahamas.

You've done all of your homework. You've picked the perfect weather window. You were in awe as the dark blue of the Gulf Stream gave way to the crystal clear, but shallow waters of the Bahamas Banks. The feel of accomplishment just can't be describe. You have arrived, so now what? The answer is almost as endless as the Island chain itself.

Arriving on your own boat is by far the best way to experience the Islands. If you decide to do nothing else, just island hopping in your boat can take up an entire season. Visiting the cities and settlements from the small to the cosmopolitan. The Abacos, with their New England flavor, offer such settlements as Hopetown or Marsh Harbor, which have become the hub of the Abacos for the boating community. You can still visit the Artist Colony at Little Harbor founded by Pete Johnson, where is family still displays many works of art. If nightlife and excitement are your pleasure, Grand Bahamas and Freeport with their large casinos and resorts will occupy all of your time and a lot of your money. The protected shallow waters of the Northern Bahamas is wonderful for sailing, snorkeling, diving and some world-class fishing. Fishing is a big part of the Bahamas experience. Deep-sea fishing for Mahi-Mahi, Marlin, Tuna, Wahoo or Mackerel are but a few of the possibilities for the catch of the day. Enjoy fly-fishing for Bonefish, catching Jack or Snapper in the morning and cooking your catch on the grill in the evening is our definition of "the good life". Fish from your own boat, hire a guide or charter a fishing boat.

Fishing or Island hopping may not be your only choices. The diving and snorkeling in the Bahamas is some of the best in the world. And no place is better known for their dive sites than the Exuma chain. Dive or snorkel on patch reefs, do deeper wall dives, or try one of the well known Blue Holes for a dive experience you will never forget. We have snorkeled with sharks at the Land and Sea Park and Barracuda amongst the Elkhorn Coral off Concepcion Island. Bring along a kayak, or rent one from one of the vendors found in many Exuma settlements for a close up and personal view of the waters and environment that can be experienced no other way. Natural preserves like the Exuma Land and Sea Park offer nature trails to hike and undisturbed underwater habitats to explore. The southern Bahamas offers a real Caribbean experience, with deserted islands and white sandy beaches that rival any other in the Caribbean.

If golfing happens to be your passion, the Bahamas offers three world-class golf courses. The Abaco Club is a private golf club offering reciprocal privileges. Treasure Cay Golf Club at Treasure Cay and Grand Isle Resort on Great Exuma round out these challenging 18-hole courses with vistas that will at times be distracting to players. All of the clubs offer amenities that rival or surpass many golf clubs found in the U.S. The lower Exumas are often the seasonal destination for many boaters. During the winter months, the warm and balmy trade winds make for some very comfortable weather. Your options are almost endless. Feed the iguanas on Allans Cay, swim with the pigs at Pig Beach on Big Major Spot, snorkel Thunderball Grotto of James Bond fame at Staniel Cay or join in the festivities that run almost non-stop in Georgetown. Georgetown is home to the annual Family Island Regatta Week. We have counted over 400 boats in the harbor during regatta week and there was still plenty of room. There are daily volleyball games going on at, you guessed it, Volleyball Beach. A different cruisers activity is going on almost every day from sing-alongs to pot lucks, or boating seminars to local holiday festivities.

The biggest problem we have encountered on our trips to the Bahamas is when it is time to leave, we haven't done everything we planned to do. It truly is better in the Bahamas, and that's probably why boaters like ourselves are drawn back over and over, and over again. So go, enjoy and look for us the next time you find yourself wondering what to do today. Chuck Baier and Susan Landry

Wifi On The Boat Part 3

2012-08-15T17:21:00.000-04:00

We posted this on our Trawler Beach House blog and wanted to add it here for follow up info...

It has been a while since we have posted any additional information on our highly successful WiFi set up on the boat. To really see how we have arrived at this point, you need to go back and read our previous posts starting with Part 1 and then Part 2. Our original WiFi set up worked great right up until the day we took it down and switched over to this new system. We have been using this for some time now, but I am just getting around to posting the how to and our results to date. The reason for the change was nothing more than seeing what was new and trying out this system because we have had a lot of positive feedback from other boaters. Our experience has been very positive although not quite the "wow" we expected.

For the last few years, we have heard a lot of chatter about the newer Ubiquiti Bullet that cruisers and boaters have been raving about. From Mexico to the Bahamas to New England, everyone has been posting excellent WiFi access with the Bullet so we just had to see what all the fuss was about. It was a difficult decision because our Engenius adapter was still providing us with all of the access we needed and one of my top rules is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." But curiosity finally got the best of me and we purchased the Bullet M2 HP. A big plus was that the antenna for our original set up would work on the Bullet, so this part did not have to be replaced. Any money saved is always a good thing. The Bullet screws directly on to the antenna so no cable connection is required. The mounting components that we changed early on and have been using for years works great with the new hardware.

The Bullet fit perfectly in the PVC pipe mounting we have been using. This mount helps to overcome one of the problems with the Bullet - having it outside in the weather. It provides a waterproof housing that will keep moisture intrusion out of the cable. Unlike the Engenius adapter, the Bullet is attached via a Cat5 cable instead of an active USB. In this photo, we test fitted the Bullet and antenna to the cap to be sure the hole size did not have to be changed.

Once it was clear that everything would fit, a bit of sealant around the hole where the antenna passes through, and around the cap and bottom, made everything perfectly water tight. With the Cat5 cable, there is no restriction as to the length, so we carefully measured how much was needed to run from the mount, through the boat and to the computer. The computer is in our forward cabin where we have set up our "office." We do have another computer at the helm station and we want to be able to access that with WiFi also. A little more about that later.

The mounting looks clean and unobtrusive. In this location, it has done well for us, but on other boats, another location might work better. We have found that the higher up it is mounted, the better reception for the access stations. I also recommend that outdoor Cat5 cable be used or at least cover the cable to provide additional UV protection. Our cable runs down the bimini frame, into a vent near the bottom of the outside of the flybridge, down a wire run to the lower helm station and then into the forward cabin, starboard side.

The hardware installation is not quite done yet. Unlike the Engenius, the Bullet gets its power through a POE (power over ethernet) device. Be sure it is a 12-volt device since they can be purchased in various voltages. There are many sources for a 12-volt POE, including Pasadena Networks where we purchased our Bullet. The POE can be either 12-volt powered and wired directly to the boat's DC system or 120-volt powered, which means it will run off of the shore power, generator or inverter. The installation is simple. The incoming Cat5 goes into the input side and another Ethernet cable comes from the outlet to the computer, or as we did, a separate router.

Since we have multiple computers, we want to be able to access the WiFi on either computer and not have to plug and unplug them. We also want to be able to use the computers anywhere on the boat and not be restricted to the forward cabin. We chose the Cradlepoint Router, once again because of positive feedback from users. It isn't one of the least expensive routers, but we have found it to be of excellent quality. Our choice is the MBR 900 and it turned out to be a good choice for us.

Now here's where it gets tricky. Our Engenius was pretty much plug and play. If you are at all intimidated by setting up computer hardware, you might consider a couple of choices. These systems can be purchased, for a great deal more money, already put together and set up to run when you get them. Or you can use a system like our Engenius that is very simple to set up. There is a fair amount of extra effort to get the Bullet set up and running and even more to to add the router to the system.

If you still want to go for it, the next step is to set up the Bullet. An excellent how to can be found here and here. Although the second link is for a Nanostation, it works for the Bullet. The Cat5 cable needs to be connected from the Bullet to the POE and then directly to the ethernet connection on your computer. The POE must have power, either from your DC or AC system, in order to do any set up. Once you have followed all of the instructions for the Bullet set up and confirmed that it is working, the Router needs to be set up to work with the Bullet.

Rather than make this a very, very long posting, I will refer you to a good set up how to for the CradlePoint router. If you had no problem setting up the Bullet, you won't have a problem setting up the router. These instructions are specifically for the CradlePoint, so if you are using another brand, you are on your own. Once the router is set up, the Cat5 cable from the POE is connected to the input for the router. You computer is then set up to connect via WiFi directly from your router. Be sure and enable your security for the router and choose a very difficult password so no one else can log in to your network. And that's it. Hopefully all went well and you are blogging like mad.

And now for our review. We've been using this system for about two years now. We find it to be an improvement over the Engenius system, BUT not a major improvement. If we had to stay with our original set up, I wouldn't have the slightest problem with that. We do seem to pick up a few more access points ON OCCASION than we did with the previous system. But most of them are secure access points so we don't really have more connections. We have received signals from access points at two miles away or more with the Engenius and don't seem to do better with the Bullet. Perhaps once we are cruising in locations where we have not been before and where there are weaker signals to work with, the improvements might show up better. In the end, time will tell. For now it works fine and we have the old system as a back up should we have a failure. I feel very comfortable and confident with both systems. Whether you should upgrade is a decision you will have to make. If your current system is not living up to your expectations, then by all means upgrade. If you are starting from scratch, I highly recommend that you go with the Bullet. Good luck and stay safe.

And be sure to read our post on securing your WiFi connections.

The Gentlemans Guide to Passages South, By Bruce Van Sant

2012-03-16T19:00:00.002-04:00

Now available.

We received an email from Bruce a week ago to let us know that he has the 10th Edition of his book out and that it would be available soon. Older copies have been offered on Ebay for as much as $800.00, which we find totally ridiculous. If anyone is looking to purchase the new 10th Edition, you can get it here for $29.95. This will be his absolutely last update. Bruce's website can be found here.

The 10th and last Edition of the popular directions for sailing south
to the Bahamas and the Caribbean

For more than twenty years Van Sant repeatedly surveyed nearly 200 anchorages between Florida and South America. He racked up well over 80,000 sea miles doing it, mostly single-handed. Why? You’ll find some interesting answers in his book of stories, Margarita Cat, but essentially, he did it because he liked doing it.

Sailing up and down the chain of islands so much and so often, he got to looking for shorter and easier ways to navigate between each link in the chain, and he kept refining detailed nav plans for every leg.

He has systematically taken the thorns out of the route they used to call the Thorny Path. For example, he exploits the calming effects on wind and sea which result from land cooling on each side of an inter-island passage. Applying his many methods, both sail and power can make safe, comfortable and pleasant progress even against normally impenetrable trade winds and seas.

Passages South offers an illustrated manual of instruction for specific passages and harbors down islands as well as a cruising guide for the Greater Antilles islands of Hispaniola and Puerto Rico. It has sailed aboard tens of thousands of boats passaging between the Americas. It should sail with you too.
About the Author During his 40 years of cruising the world, Van Sant worked as a consultant systems engineer as well as weriting and speaking in Asia, Europe, Latin America and the Middle East, picking up six languages along the way. He settled into cruising the myriad islands between Florida and South America. Read more about his adventures in his book MARGARITA CAT.

Available at www.ThornlessPath.com and nautical outlets

Mustang Survival IPFD Recall

2011-11-21T20:53:00.004-05:00

We have been users of the Mustang Inflatable Vests for many years and have been very satisfied with them. But we have recently been made aware of a recall due to a problem that might keep them from fully inflating. Here is the official recall notice...

November 2, 2011

MUSTANG SURVIVAL ISSUES VOLUNTARY RECALL NOTICE ON MD2010 & MD2012 model 22LB Inflatable Personal Flotation Devices

In keeping with Mustang Survival’s commitment to the highest levels of product quality and safety, we are voluntarily recalling all model number MD2010 and MD2012 inflatable Personal Flotation Devices (PFD’s) sold in the United States during 2011. To determine if you are impacted by this recall please reference the images below:
Image 1: Any inflatable product with multiple white sewn on safety labels on the back is OK and is not affected by this recall.

Image 2 If your inflatable does not have white sewn on safety labels, please check for model number MD2010 or MD2012 on the back of the PFD, then refer to Image 3.

Image 3 MD2010/MD2012 models with an “MIT” (Membrane Inflatable Technology) stamp (in black or color) above the CO2 cylinder are OK. Any MD2010 or MD2012 missing the “MIT” stamp should be returned to Mustang!
This recall is being issued for the inspection and repair of an inflator installation inconsistency that may prevent some units from fully inflating. Mustang Survival has developed a solution that corrects any affected product and prevents re-occurrence of this issue. The inspection and repair can only be performed at a Mustang Survival factory.
This recall notification is for only the MD2010 and MD2012 22LB buoyancy inflatable PFDs. No other Mustang Survival products are affected as they utilize different inflator mechanisms.
All MD2010 and MD2012 PFD’s without the stamped MIT logo as shown in Image 3 (above) should be returned to Mustang Survival for inspection. All other Mustang PFD’s are okay for use.
Distributors and consumers are urged to contact Mustang Survival’s Customer Service department at 1-800-526-0532 between 7:30am and 4:30pm PST, Monday through Friday for specific shipping instructions. If you have questions, please first refer to the Frequently Asked Questions below:

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Q: Why do I have to return the product?
A: Our QA team has discovered an installation inconsistency with the inflator system that needs to be tested and corrected if necessary.
Q: How do I know if my inflatable is one of the affected products?
A: The model number is screen printed onto the back panel above the UL mark and will begin with the characters MD followed by four numbers. Affected products are MD2010 and MD2012
Q: When will I get my product back?
A: We are striving to have all products returned to dealers and consumers within 3-4 weeks (including shipping time to and from Mustang).
Q: What are you doing with my returned product?
A: All units will be tested and if necessary, repaired, before being returned. We will stamp the inside of the product above the CO2 cylinder with “MIT” to indicate that it has been tested and is OK.
Q: Are the re-arm kits affected by this recall?
A: Re-arm kits are not affected by this recall. The problem is isolated to the inflator assembly on the inflatable PFD.
Q: Is this a problem caused by the M.I.T. (Membrane) technology?
A: No, the problem is with the inflator installation on the affected units.
Q: Does this recall impact any other Mustang inflatable PFDs?
A: No, the recall is limited to only the MD2010 and MD2012 models due to its unique inflator components and installation method.
Q: How do I return my product?
A: Contact Mustang Survival’s Customer Service department at 1-800-526-0532 between 7:30am and 4:30pm PST, Monday through Friday with any questions or concerns regarding this voluntary recall notice.
Q: What are the shipping and repair costs?
A: Mustang Survival will pay for all testing, repair and shipping costs.
Q: How are you notifying the public about this issue?
A: A detailed communications plan is being executed to notify all affected dealers, distributors, consumers and industry partners.

Moeller Marine Product Review

2011-11-06T21:07:00.003-05:00

Over the years we have often used Moeller Marine products, also sold under Tempo, and found them to be of fairly decent quality. But our most recent purchases have changed our opinion considerably. Here on the Beach House site we often post the specific product we are working with and links to where it can be found. When we use a product we like, it gets a good mention and we will often recommend it to others. But when we find a product we consider of poor quality we feel just as obligated to let others know of our experience. Three recent products made by Moeller have made our "Never Again" list.

Each of these was purchased only a few months ago and only used a couple of times. The first is a pad that goes over the transom of our dinghy to cushion it when the outboard is mounted. This has only been used one other time with the outboard on and when we mounted the outboard again this weekend, here is the condition we found the pad to be in. It has split completely in half. The dinghy is mounted horizontally on our swim platform and it is impossible for anything to come in contact that might cause this problem.

The next is the premade fuel line that connects the outboard to the fuel tank. The squeeze bulb that lets you prime the line and the outboard is made of such a hard rubber material that you can't squeeze it to prime anything. You must virtually step on it to get the bulb to compress.

The hose itself is starting to collapse from the inside. We are always very careful not to crimp the hose but this one has already developed a crimp on its own, right at the end fitting. Also note the cheap crimped clamp on the end fitting since this too is a problem.

Both ends leak where the hose attaches to the end fitting connectors because the crimped clamp does not clamp down tight enough on the hose. You can easily spin the end connectors and if you can get enough pressure on the priming bulb the ends leak and will continue to leak when the engine is running and pulling fuel from the tank.

The biggest disappointment has been the brand new 3 gallon fuel tank that we purchased about a month ago. We use three gallon tanks for the dinghy so that the gas in the tanks get turned over quickly and we don't have to throw away bad gas, especially as expensive as it is now. The first time we filled up the tank and carried it down the dock we found it was leaking all over the place. Upon further inspection it was determined that the threads for the plastic cap that holds the pick up tube was split in half where the threads meet the mounting.

After disassembling the fitting, I used the handle for the pliers to hold open the split to show how bad it was. Note the other tank sitting next to the broken one. This older tank is a couple of years old and is also a Moeller tank. It has shown no signs of problems and continues to be leak free. I can only make the assumption that the manufacturing process has changed and quality control has gone down the tubes. The colors of the tanks are not the same further indicating to me that things have changed. Perhaps if it had been a single product we might have just taken it back for exchange. But three different products from the same manufacturer all failing in such a short period leads me to only one conclusion. We don't want this product on our boat. This time we will take the hit and reorder all three of these from another manufacturer. I invite Moeller to come on the site and comment on this if they care to.

Plotting Your Course

2011-10-10T17:18:00.000-04:00

In September of 1987, I sailed my 30-foot Hughes Columbia sailboat south to Little River, South Carolina. After a few days of waiting weather, I exited the Little River Inlet and pointed the bow towards Bermuda, some 1,000 miles away. To find that small speck in the middle of the Atlantic, I had the most up-to-date navigational instruments of the time. They consisted of a compass, VHF radio, a sextant with complete tables, paper charts and a radio direction finder. Seven and a half days later, I tuned the RDF to the radio signal for St. Georges Harbor and my feelings of accomplishment were beyond explanation.

Flash forward to the year 2000 as we were planning a trip through the Bahamas, Hispaniola and Cuba. We bought our first on-board computer with state-of-the-art navigational software and the most current electronic charts. We thought we had gone from the Santa Maria to the Starship Enterprise. Now, just 11 years later, that first navigational setup seems almost primitive. Today, we have a full complement of electronics, including our favorite, the chartplotter. We didn’t install our first chartplotter until our cruise from Houston, Texas to Beaufort, South Carolina in 2007. Once we had it on board, we wondered how we had navigated all those thousands of miles for all of those years without one.

Plotters are arguably the most popular piece of electronic equipment found on boats today. The advancements of plotters and GPS integration over the last 18 years are nothing short of astounding. In the early 90s, most all of us were still plotting our course on paper charts and using dividers, protractors, parallel rulers and a sharp number two pencil. Some time around 1993, all of that changed and the race was on for high tech, highly accurate electronic charting. In 1993, Raymarine introduced the Raychart 600 as an add-on to their radar system. The unit displayed on a CRT screen and the radar had to be switched off to view the crude monochrome display with little detail. In 1995, Garmin introduced the GPS Map 220. It boasted of viewing in 16 colors and retailed for over $2,000. These early chartplotters required expensive data cards or “chips” with limited storage space. A long distance cruiser might need up to 10 or more of these chips to cover all of their navigational areas. These chips were not updateable, so to have the most current, we would often have to purchase new cards if significant chart updates had been made.

In 2003, Raymarine once again made major headway with their introduction of the C Series and E Series displays with the ability to integrate other onboard electronics to the same screen. The term chartplotter was already becoming a thing of the past. True chartplotters are getting harder and harder to find today as system integration becomes the norm even on small recreational vessels. Today’s multifunction displays or MFDs can display almost every other instrument connected to the system. This includes radar overlays, wind speed and direction, boat speed, depths and much more. All of this while providing a position on the electronic chart with accuracy within feet of where your boat actually is on the planet.

The current offerings for MFDs are as spectacular as the improvements from 15 years ago. The new Raymarine e7 series, released in July 2011, contains a dual-core processor, touch screen technology and dedicated graphics for incredible speed and detailed display. The e7 has built in WiFi that will communicate with the Apple iPad, allowing it to be used as a repeater and much more. With the new LED backlighted screen, the e7 is incredibly bright and colorful, even in direct sunlight. The e7 can be integrated with Raymarine radar, night vision cameras, Sirius weather receivers, autopilots and other instruments and contains a 48-channel GPS receiver.

Not to be outdone, other manufacturers are also bringing out some outstanding products. Simrad has introduced their new touch-screen NSSSport Series. The NSS Sport comes in three sizes and offers touch-screen, keypad and rotary control to provide the user with a variety of user controls to fit their comfort level. Ensuring ultimate flexibility, the NSS Sport can be networked to the Simrad NSO and NSE multifunction displays, as well as Simrad Yachting’s comprehensive range of innovative performance module options, including the award-winning Broadband Radar™, StructureScan™ Sonar Imaging, SonicHub™ marine audio server and WM-2 SIRIUS^® satellite weather/radio module. The NSS Sport is also preloaded with Insight USA™ inland and coastal cartography, and is fully compatible with the complete range of Navionics chart options on microSD.

Garmin’s new GPSMap 6000/7000 touch-screen offers state-of-the-art G motion technology and built-in worldwide maps, XM weather radio compatibility and allows support for radar, sonar and more. The G motion technology give the user unprecedented viewing of navigational charts.

Many of the current displays include built-in charts for the entire United States coastal and inland waters. The need to purchase individual charting chips is also becoming a thing of the past. Satellite overlays, 3D imaging, weather overlays and video displays are but the beginning of more features, added capabilities and expansion we will see from all of the major manufacturers. As users demand more integration with other mobile devices and more computer-like capabilities, companies like Raymarine, Garmin, Simrad and others will quickly introduce new and more exciting products, a long stretch from my first sextant and radio direction finder.

A big word of caution is also needed with all of this technology. The temptation is great to fire up all of the electronics and head off into the sunset staring at your MFD and feeling you’re getting all of the information you could possibly need to navigate around the world. As great as these electronics are and with all of the information they can provide, they are by no means perfect. Nothing compares to a set of eyes constantly on watch for hazards and potential problems. No display can tell you if a log is floating in your path or if channel markers have been moved due to shoaling. Blindly following a plotter is a sure-fire recipe for disaster, and overly depending on any piece of equipment for the safety and security of your vessel and crew is foolish. We still keep paper charts on board because we have learned from experience that electronics can and do fail. When we want to look at the “big picture,” we can only do that on a set of the most current, up-to-date charts. We use a variety of sources for information and confirmation, and years of cruising and tens of thousands of miles under our keel have taught us that anything is possible. We want you all to stay safe out there.

Our New Outboard Lift And Back Saver.

2011-09-05T22:02:00.000-04:00

During our cruise along the south coast of Cuba several years ago, I did a really dumb thing. We were Med-moored to the dock at Santiago, next to our friend's Vagabond 47 and there was a bit of swell running in the harbor. We both decided to set out an anchor from our bow to keep us from banging together and used our dinghy to do just that. I sat in the dinghy with our CQR 45 and about 50 feet of 3/8 BBB chain in my lap ready to deploy the anchor, and that is when it happened.

It was right about then that I heard the loud pop, and the pain shooting up my back was excruciating. It almost ruined what turned out to be the best cruising we have ever done. From that moment on, it meant I had to be very careful when doing any kind of lifting. That has not stopped me from forgetting over the years and doing more stupid things to aggravate my back problem from time to time. A few weeks ago, we wanted to get out and use our new dinghy for a trip around the local waters. This means lifting the dinghy from a bracket on the stern of the boat, down onto the swim platform and then onto the stern of the dinghy. This is something I have only done a couple of times. then paid for it later with back pain. If we did not resolve the problem, it was obvious we would not use the dinghy very often and there would always be the potential for disaster. Our outboard was given to us by a friend. It looks rough, but runs like a champ. It is a vintage 1999 Johnson 6 horsepower and is pretty heavy to be lifting around on the swim platform.

After considerable research and feedback from other boat owners, we decided that an outboard lift was the answer to our problem and the savior of my back. We decided on the St. Croix 175 Little Crane mounted on the stern corner of the boat just above the outboard. It was not the least expensive, but we liked the sturdy build and the ease to disassemble and stow it when not needed. Another trawler owner highly recommended it and has been using the same model for years. We found the best price on-line at Marine Warehouse in Miami and it arrived about a week after we placed the order.

The installation is very simple and straightforward, as straightforward as anything on a boat can be. The first obstacle to overcome is the mounting bracket that holds the upper part of the lower mast pipe. This is designed to be used on a one inch horizontal rail and or course our rail is teak. But after a little study, I concluded that it would still work on our rail with the use of some slightly longer bolts. You can see how it luckily fit very well and was pretty sturdy.

The next step is to mount the base bulkhead bracket to the combing on the stern. This was thru-bolted to a substantial piece of teak as a backing plate and large fender washers. A healthy dose of caulking behind both the bracket and the backing plate on the inside will keep the water out.

Once these two brackets are installed, the section of the mast pipe with the notch in the bottom to accept the bulkhead mount is slid into the rail mount and down to the bulkhead mount. The mast is a fine piece of polished stainless and looks very nice. It is also thick walled to handle the weight of the outboard.

The upper section of the mast pipe is fitted into the top of lower section. Both of these can easily be removed and stowed away until they are needed, which is one of the points we liked about this unit.

The lifting arm is, again, a separate piece and can be very cleverly attached and removed if not needed. There are two tabs welded to the top of the upper mast section, and the arm is inserted in the tabs. The arm will swing over and allow us to use the lift on the side of the boat as well as the stern. The crane arm has about a 30-inch reach, and both the arm and the upper section of the mast will swing and rotate as needed.

The final steps in the process is the lacing of the line provided through the three rollers at the end of the arm and the 3-purchase block, also provided. There is a clear diagram in the instructions that makes it easy. A snap hook is attached to the block or can be left attached to the outboard. That is all there is to it. Careful consideration needs to go into the exact location for mounting. I always check and recheck everything before drilling any holes. The outboard is heavy so everything is through bolted and not screwed. All that is left is to hook it to the outboard and lift away. Except that the one thing I forgot was the strap that is attached to the outboard to lift it off the bracket. Oh well, another trip to the supply store. Until next time.