Voyages of Sea Trek

Merry Christmas And A Very Happy New Year

2011-12-24T15:44:00.001-06:00

Susan and I would like to wish all of our readers and friends a very merry Christmas as well as a happy, healthy and prosperous New Year for 2012. We're looking forward to continuing the preparations for our next cruise aboard our Trawler Beach House and sharing those preparations with you all. We look forward with even more excitement to sharing our cruising experiences and reporting on our travels. Drop by the site from time to time and please leave us a few comments. Let us know how we are doing, what you think of the site and what you would like to see posted. Sincerely, Chuck and Susan.

Mustang Survival IPFD Recall

2011-11-21T19:53:00.004-06:00

We have been users of the Mustang Inflatable Vests for many years and have been very satisfied with them. But we have recently been made aware of a recall due to a problem that might keep them from fully inflating. Here is the official recall notice...

November 2, 2011

MUSTANG SURVIVAL ISSUES VOLUNTARY RECALL NOTICE ON MD2010 & MD2012 model 22LB Inflatable Personal Flotation Devices

In keeping with Mustang Survival’s commitment to the highest levels of product quality and safety, we are voluntarily recalling all model number MD2010 and MD2012 inflatable Personal Flotation Devices (PFD’s) sold in the United States during 2011. To determine if you are impacted by this recall please reference the images below:
Image 1: Any inflatable product with multiple white sewn on safety labels on the back is OK and is not affected by this recall.

Image 2 If your inflatable does not have white sewn on safety labels, please check for model number MD2010 or MD2012 on the back of the PFD, then refer to Image 3.

Image 3 MD2010/MD2012 models with an “MIT” (Membrane Inflatable Technology) stamp (in black or color) above the CO2 cylinder are OK. Any MD2010 or MD2012 missing the “MIT” stamp should be returned to Mustang!
This recall is being issued for the inspection and repair of an inflator installation inconsistency that may prevent some units from fully inflating. Mustang Survival has developed a solution that corrects any affected product and prevents re-occurrence of this issue. The inspection and repair can only be performed at a Mustang Survival factory.
This recall notification is for only the MD2010 and MD2012 22LB buoyancy inflatable PFDs. No other Mustang Survival products are affected as they utilize different inflator mechanisms.
All MD2010 and MD2012 PFD’s without the stamped MIT logo as shown in Image 3 (above) should be returned to Mustang Survival for inspection. All other Mustang PFD’s are okay for use.
Distributors and consumers are urged to contact Mustang Survival’s Customer Service department at 1-800-526-0532 between 7:30am and 4:30pm PST, Monday through Friday for specific shipping instructions. If you have questions, please first refer to the Frequently Asked Questions below:

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Q: Why do I have to return the product?
A: Our QA team has discovered an installation inconsistency with the inflator system that needs to be tested and corrected if necessary.
Q: How do I know if my inflatable is one of the affected products?
A: The model number is screen printed onto the back panel above the UL mark and will begin with the characters MD followed by four numbers. Affected products are MD2010 and MD2012
Q: When will I get my product back?
A: We are striving to have all products returned to dealers and consumers within 3-4 weeks (including shipping time to and from Mustang).
Q: What are you doing with my returned product?
A: All units will be tested and if necessary, repaired, before being returned. We will stamp the inside of the product above the CO2 cylinder with “MIT” to indicate that it has been tested and is OK.
Q: Are the re-arm kits affected by this recall?
A: Re-arm kits are not affected by this recall. The problem is isolated to the inflator assembly on the inflatable PFD.
Q: Is this a problem caused by the M.I.T. (Membrane) technology?
A: No, the problem is with the inflator installation on the affected units.
Q: Does this recall impact any other Mustang inflatable PFDs?
A: No, the recall is limited to only the MD2010 and MD2012 models due to its unique inflator components and installation method.
Q: How do I return my product?
A: Contact Mustang Survival’s Customer Service department at 1-800-526-0532 between 7:30am and 4:30pm PST, Monday through Friday with any questions or concerns regarding this voluntary recall notice.
Q: What are the shipping and repair costs?
A: Mustang Survival will pay for all testing, repair and shipping costs.
Q: How are you notifying the public about this issue?
A: A detailed communications plan is being executed to notify all affected dealers, distributors, consumers and industry partners.

Moeller Marine Product Review

2011-11-06T20:07:00.003-06:00

Over the years we have often used Moeller Marine products, also sold under Tempo, and found them to be of fairly decent quality. But our most recent purchases have changed our opinion considerably. Here on the Beach House site we often post the specific product we are working with and links to where it can be found. When we use a product we like, it gets a good mention and we will often recommend it to others. But when we find a product we consider of poor quality we feel just as obligated to let others know of our experience. Three recent products made by Moeller have made our "Never Again" list.

Each of these was purchased only a few months ago and only used a couple of times. The first is a pad that goes over the transom of our dinghy to cushion it when the outboard is mounted. This has only been used one other time with the outboard on and when we mounted the outboard again this weekend, here is the condition we found the pad to be in. It has split completely in half. The dinghy is mounted horizontally on our swim platform and it is impossible for anything to come in contact that might cause this problem.

The next is the premade fuel line that connects the outboard to the fuel tank. The squeeze bulb that lets you prime the line and the outboard is made of such a hard rubber material that you can't squeeze it to prime anything. You must virtually step on it to get the bulb to compress.

The hose itself is starting to collapse from the inside. We are always very careful not to crimp the hose but this one has already developed a crimp on its own, right at the end fitting. Also note the cheap crimped clamp on the end fitting since this too is a problem.

Both ends leak where the hose attaches to the end fitting connectors because the crimped clamp does not clamp down tight enough on the hose. You can easily spin the end connectors and if you can get enough pressure on the priming bulb the ends leak and will continue to leak when the engine is running and pulling fuel from the tank.

The biggest disappointment has been the brand new 3 gallon fuel tank that we purchased about a month ago. We use three gallon tanks for the dinghy so that the gas in the tanks get turned over quickly and we don't have to throw away bad gas, especially as expensive as it is now. The first time we filled up the tank and carried it down the dock we found it was leaking all over the place. Upon further inspection it was determined that the threads for the plastic cap that holds the pick up tube was split in half where the threads meet the mounting.

After disassembling the fitting, I used the handle for the pliers to hold open the split to show how bad it was. Note the other tank sitting next to the broken one. This older tank is a couple of years old and is also a Moeller tank. It has shown no signs of problems and continues to be leak free. I can only make the assumption that the manufacturing process has changed and quality control has gone down the tubes. The colors of the tanks are not the same further indicating to me that things have changed. Perhaps if it had been a single product we might have just taken it back for exchange. But three different products from the same manufacturer all failing in such a short period leads me to only one conclusion. We don't want this product on our boat. This time we will take the hit and reorder all three of these from another manufacturer. I invite Moeller to come on the site and comment on this if they care to.

Our Navigational Notices and Other Work Related Stuff

2011-11-02T15:04:00.001-05:00

We haven't been totally neglecting Beach House, but W-O-R-K has been interfering with our boat work a little. Our new projects for Marinalife are coming along nicely. We have quite a few Navigational Notices and Alerts posted that cover the eastern U.S. coast from Maine to Florida and the Gulf Coast, Great Lakes and inland Waterways that include the Great Loop Route. We have even posted a few from the west coast, but not as extensive as the rest. We are also putting together cruising itineraries based on some of our previous cruises that include marina stops and anchorages for a leisure cruise south on the ICW, with stops at about every 50 miles. We will have another cruise template for the ICW from the Georgia border to the Florida Keys, but that will probably not be up for another week. If anyone wants to receive my Navigational Notices, you can go to the Marinalife website and register, and then sign up for whatever areas you want on your dashboard page. It is all free and I send out the Notices as soon as I receive and verify them. They can be read on the website or sent right to your email box. The notices are also linked to our Nautical Chartviewer so you can see the exact area where the notice is posted.

We have also done a few articles for Marinalife Magazine and Susan has an article that has just been picked up by Cruising World. We've compiled many of our anchorages and included them in the Marinalife Chartviewer, plus we have an article for anchorages along the ICW that we will be posting later. Keeping up with all of our other writing has kept us off the blog for a while, but we will make it up soon. Besides working to build the cruising Kitty, we are renovating the flybridge and will post on that as soon as we're a bit farther along. Our plan is to replace the old fiberglass seats, Awlgrip areas we have not done yet and redo the non-skid on the decks. It's still a work in progress, but we are moving along.

We are in our third marina since we arrived in south Florida. We have always wanted to be able to sample different locations rather than just park in one spot as we have often done. Being able to do this is not only fun, but it lets us feel more like we are still boating rather than just sitting and working. More on that later too. The big projects are yet to be done. The autopilot will be next after we finish the flybridge. After that, and a few smaller things, we will tackle the generator. So stick around and sign up for Marinalife updates through email or RSS feed, and we will keep on keepin' on.

Plotting Your Course

2011-10-10T16:18:00.000-05:00

In September of 1987, I sailed my 30-foot Hughes Columbia sailboat south to Little River, South Carolina. After a few days of waiting weather, I exited the Little River Inlet and pointed the bow towards Bermuda, some 1,000 miles away. To find that small speck in the middle of the Atlantic, I had the most up-to-date navigational instruments of the time. They consisted of a compass, VHF radio, a sextant with complete tables, paper charts and a radio direction finder. Seven and a half days later, I tuned the RDF to the radio signal for St. Georges Harbor and my feelings of accomplishment were beyond explanation.

Flash forward to the year 2000 as we were planning a trip through the Bahamas, Hispaniola and Cuba. We bought our first on-board computer with state-of-the-art navigational software and the most current electronic charts. We thought we had gone from the Santa Maria to the Starship Enterprise. Now, just 11 years later, that first navigational setup seems almost primitive. Today, we have a full complement of electronics, including our favorite, the chartplotter. We didn’t install our first chartplotter until our cruise from Houston, Texas to Beaufort, South Carolina in 2007. Once we had it on board, we wondered how we had navigated all those thousands of miles for all of those years without one.

Plotters are arguably the most popular piece of electronic equipment found on boats today. The advancements of plotters and GPS integration over the last 18 years are nothing short of astounding. In the early 90s, most all of us were still plotting our course on paper charts and using dividers, protractors, parallel rulers and a sharp number two pencil. Some time around 1993, all of that changed and the race was on for high tech, highly accurate electronic charting. In 1993, Raymarine introduced the Raychart 600 as an add-on to their radar system. The unit displayed on a CRT screen and the radar had to be switched off to view the crude monochrome display with little detail. In 1995, Garmin introduced the GPS Map 220. It boasted of viewing in 16 colors and retailed for over $2,000. These early chartplotters required expensive data cards or “chips” with limited storage space. A long distance cruiser might need up to 10 or more of these chips to cover all of their navigational areas. These chips were not updateable, so to have the most current, we would often have to purchase new cards if significant chart updates had been made.

In 2003, Raymarine once again made major headway with their introduction of the C Series and E Series displays with the ability to integrate other onboard electronics to the same screen. The term chartplotter was already becoming a thing of the past. True chartplotters are getting harder and harder to find today as system integration becomes the norm even on small recreational vessels. Today’s multifunction displays or MFDs can display almost every other instrument connected to the system. This includes radar overlays, wind speed and direction, boat speed, depths and much more. All of this while providing a position on the electronic chart with accuracy within feet of where your boat actually is on the planet.

The current offerings for MFDs are as spectacular as the improvements from 15 years ago. The new Raymarine e7 series, released in July 2011, contains a dual-core processor, touch screen technology and dedicated graphics for incredible speed and detailed display. The e7 has built in WiFi that will communicate with the Apple iPad, allowing it to be used as a repeater and much more. With the new LED backlighted screen, the e7 is incredibly bright and colorful, even in direct sunlight. The e7 can be integrated with Raymarine radar, night vision cameras, Sirius weather receivers, autopilots and other instruments and contains a 48-channel GPS receiver.

Not to be outdone, other manufacturers are also bringing out some outstanding products. Simrad has introduced their new touch-screen NSSSport Series. The NSS Sport comes in three sizes and offers touch-screen, keypad and rotary control to provide the user with a variety of user controls to fit their comfort level. Ensuring ultimate flexibility, the NSS Sport can be networked to the Simrad NSO and NSE multifunction displays, as well as Simrad Yachting’s comprehensive range of innovative performance module options, including the award-winning Broadband Radar™, StructureScan™ Sonar Imaging, SonicHub™ marine audio server and WM-2 SIRIUS^® satellite weather/radio module. The NSS Sport is also preloaded with Insight USA™ inland and coastal cartography, and is fully compatible with the complete range of Navionics chart options on microSD.

Garmin’s new GPSMap 6000/7000 touch-screen offers state-of-the-art G motion technology and built-in worldwide maps, XM weather radio compatibility and allows support for radar, sonar and more. The G motion technology give the user unprecedented viewing of navigational charts.

Many of the current displays include built-in charts for the entire United States coastal and inland waters. The need to purchase individual charting chips is also becoming a thing of the past. Satellite overlays, 3D imaging, weather overlays and video displays are but the beginning of more features, added capabilities and expansion we will see from all of the major manufacturers. As users demand more integration with other mobile devices and more computer-like capabilities, companies like Raymarine, Garmin, Simrad and others will quickly introduce new and more exciting products, a long stretch from my first sextant and radio direction finder.

A big word of caution is also needed with all of this technology. The temptation is great to fire up all of the electronics and head off into the sunset staring at your MFD and feeling you’re getting all of the information you could possibly need to navigate around the world. As great as these electronics are and with all of the information they can provide, they are by no means perfect. Nothing compares to a set of eyes constantly on watch for hazards and potential problems. No display can tell you if a log is floating in your path or if channel markers have been moved due to shoaling. Blindly following a plotter is a sure-fire recipe for disaster, and overly depending on any piece of equipment for the safety and security of your vessel and crew is foolish. We still keep paper charts on board because we have learned from experience that electronics can and do fail. When we want to look at the “big picture,” we can only do that on a set of the most current, up-to-date charts. We use a variety of sources for information and confirmation, and years of cruising and tens of thousands of miles under our keel have taught us that anything is possible. We want you all to stay safe out there.

Our New Outboard Lift And Back Saver.

2011-09-05T21:02:00.000-05:00

During our cruise along the south coast of Cuba several years ago, I did a really dumb thing. We were Med-moored to the dock at Santiago, next to our friend's Vagabond 47 and there was a bit of swell running in the harbor. We both decided to set out an anchor from our bow to keep us from banging together and used our dinghy to do just that. I sat in the dinghy with our CQR 45 and about 50 feet of 3/8 BBB chain in my lap ready to deploy the anchor, and that is when it happened.

It was right about then that I heard the loud pop, and the pain shooting up my back was excruciating. It almost ruined what turned out to be the best cruising we have ever done. From that moment on, it meant I had to be very careful when doing any kind of lifting. That has not stopped me from forgetting over the years and doing more stupid things to aggravate my back problem from time to time. A few weeks ago, we wanted to get out and use our new dinghy for a trip around the local waters. This means lifting the dinghy from a bracket on the stern of the boat, down onto the swim platform and then onto the stern of the dinghy. This is something I have only done a couple of times. then paid for it later with back pain. If we did not resolve the problem, it was obvious we would not use the dinghy very often and there would always be the potential for disaster. Our outboard was given to us by a friend. It looks rough, but runs like a champ. It is a vintage 1999 Johnson 6 horsepower and is pretty heavy to be lifting around on the swim platform.

After considerable research and feedback from other boat owners, we decided that an outboard lift was the answer to our problem and the savior of my back. We decided on the St. Croix 175 Little Crane mounted on the stern corner of the boat just above the outboard. It was not the least expensive, but we liked the sturdy build and the ease to disassemble and stow it when not needed. Another trawler owner highly recommended it and has been using the same model for years. We found the best price on-line at Marine Warehouse in Miami and it arrived about a week after we placed the order.

The installation is very simple and straightforward, as straightforward as anything on a boat can be. The first obstacle to overcome is the mounting bracket that holds the upper part of the lower mast pipe. This is designed to be used on a one inch horizontal rail and or course our rail is teak. But after a little study, I concluded that it would still work on our rail with the use of some slightly longer bolts. You can see how it luckily fit very well and was pretty sturdy.

The next step is to mount the base bulkhead bracket to the combing on the stern. This was thru-bolted to a substantial piece of teak as a backing plate and large fender washers. A healthy dose of caulking behind both the bracket and the backing plate on the inside will keep the water out.

Once these two brackets are installed, the section of the mast pipe with the notch in the bottom to accept the bulkhead mount is slid into the rail mount and down to the bulkhead mount. The mast is a fine piece of polished stainless and looks very nice. It is also thick walled to handle the weight of the outboard.

The upper section of the mast pipe is fitted into the top of lower section. Both of these can easily be removed and stowed away until they are needed, which is one of the points we liked about this unit.

The lifting arm is, again, a separate piece and can be very cleverly attached and removed if not needed. There are two tabs welded to the top of the upper mast section, and the arm is inserted in the tabs. The arm will swing over and allow us to use the lift on the side of the boat as well as the stern. The crane arm has about a 30-inch reach, and both the arm and the upper section of the mast will swing and rotate as needed.

The final steps in the process is the lacing of the line provided through the three rollers at the end of the arm and the 3-purchase block, also provided. There is a clear diagram in the instructions that makes it easy. A snap hook is attached to the block or can be left attached to the outboard. That is all there is to it. Careful consideration needs to go into the exact location for mounting. I always check and recheck everything before drilling any holes. The outboard is heavy so everything is through bolted and not screwed. All that is left is to hook it to the outboard and lift away. Except that the one thing I forgot was the strap that is attached to the outboard to lift it off the bracket. Oh well, another trip to the supply store. Until next time.

Is It Really Hard To Install A Single Side Band Radio?

2011-08-14T12:50:00.003-05:00

First, a complete disclosure. I have installed a dozen or more SSB radios as a service technician over the years. But my first two installations were on our own boat and I started with no previous knowledge and only the manufacturers manual. To make matters worse, we had no internet to do any research on and most installers would have us believe that there was some kind of magic and mystery to installing an HF radio. We quickly found out that was not the case, and installing one of these radios was no more difficult than installing any other piece of equipment. Eighteen years later, we are installing the most current Icom offering, the 802, on Beach House in preparation for future cruising. And once again, it was not all that difficult.

First, we needed to decide where the rig would be mounted. This does take some consideration since the ease of access when using the radio, the wire runs, where to mount the main unit, the automatic tuner and the ground or counterpoise connections are all factors. We chose the forward cabin as our "radio shack" because it would have the radio out of the way of all other equipment, give the operator some separation from all the other noise in the boat and give us easy access to running the necessary cables. We also chose to use the mounting brackets for the remote control head and speaker rather than flush mount them. Flush mounting would mean cutting some pretty big holes in a bulkhead and if we every decided to remove the radio or find we had to move it, we would be stuck with the holes.

This is also the same area we have set up as our office and computer work station with our printer, separate hard drive storage and all of our supplies. The radio would need to be connected to the computer for retrieving email and weather information over our Winlink system, so this made perfect sense. A small, one and 1/2 inch hole saw cut, through the bulkhead up in a corner under the shelf, gave perfect access to an unused compartment behind a hanging locker. The cables from the remote control head, speaker and Pactor Modem could pass through the hole with enough space to allow for the plugs on the ends.

The main unit of the Icom also comes with a mounting bracket, and our choice was to mount the unit on the other side of the bulkhead. A big consideration for mounting the main unit is to be sure it is in an open and dry area. This unit is not waterproof or even water-resistant. It was within a little more than a foot from the remote control head and speaker. The cables that attach them do allow for a considerable distance if needed. One word of caution, the OPC cable that connects the main unit to the automatic tuner is not very robust. Care should be exercised so as not to damage the plugs or to pull any of the wiring away from the pins in the plugs. This is a common problem during installation. An RG 8U coaxial cable with PL259 connectors on both ends runs from the main unit to the automatic tuner. Another common problem is improper soldering of the PL259 connectors. Positive and negative wires from the main unit to a DC power source are also needed. I always run the power cables directly to the battery bank and fuse both the positive and negative wires at the battery. I have found that connecting an HF radio at the distribution panel almost always creates RF issues in other electrical equipment. The wire should be sized based on the overall run to the battery and back so that voltage drop is kept to a minimum. I don't connect the power cables until the very last, after everything is installed. All wires and cables should be well-secured so they can not chafe or accidentally disconnect. We have had the Pactor Modem cable come out on its own and it took a while to figure it out.

The Icom 802 requires an automatic tuner and, of course, Icom recommends their AT-140. Other cruisers we know have used other manufacturers tuners with great success. We tend to stay with what we know and we have had the AT-130 and AT-140 in the past. We also decided to try a different approach with the ground or counterpoise for this installation. This was my first install on a powerboat, so the antenna setup was a little different than past installations. The typical SSB installation will have a copper foil strap, about two to three inches wide, run from the ground lug on the tuner to a Dynaplate and/or thru-hulls that are in contact with the water. This is how I have done our own and others installations in the past. But in researching how we planned to do this on board Beach House, we found a radial-type counterpoise called KISS SSB. The reviews and feedback from others were very positive and the idea of not having to run copper straps all over the boat was very appealing. The copper straps will corrode over time and degrade the radio's signal strength. We are so pleased with the KISS SSB system that we have become suppliers and can offer them at a good discount.

The KISS SSB is a bundle of wires designed to be radials that are connected to the tuner via a short length of wire. It is all bundled in a waterproof vinyl covering and sealed on both ends. It is a self-contained, counterpoise radial ground system. The Kiss can be run just about anywhere on the boat, clear of electrical wires and electronics, and can even be looped without affecting the performance. Our choice was to run the KISS around the perimeter of the forward V-berth and secure it to the frames just under the top. It is out of the way, but fully stretched out, without being near any other electrical items. This was almost too easy and I did not know what to expect when we finally fired up the radio.

The AT-140 was mounted in the same compartment as the main unit except on the horizontal at the bottom of the compartment. This made connections between the tuner and the main unit about 2 feet, and getting to anything to troubleshoot would be easy, with all connections in the same place. In practice, all of the plugs and connections are coated with a dialectic silicone grease, and all of the coax connections are wrapped in a vulcanizing tape for added protection. An important note here: There is a green ground wire on the OPC 1147n cable, and the Icom manual tells you to connect that ground wire to both the main unit and the tuner. There is even a special lug for this. DON'T DO IT. It will cause additional noise and interference on the radio. With the remote controller, speaker, main unit and tuner all connected, it was time to work on the antenna.

In the past, all of the installations I have done were on sailboats. The mainmast backstay was always used as the antenna by cutting the backstay and putting insulators near the top and bottom. The entire length between the insulators became the antenna. Since there are no backstays to speak of on Beach House, we would need to install a whip antenna. HF radio whip antennas come in two sizes; 16 feet and 23 feet. The longer the antenna, the better and we did not want to skimp on the installation, so we ordered the 23-foot whip. We also chose the Morad Antenna System after much research. You'll find the Morad on U.S. Coast Guard and Navy vessels because they are very strong and well built. Morad's website has been down for quite a while, but the antenna can be ordered directly from them by calling them in Seattle, Washington at (206) 789-2525. Ask for Ken. You will get all the information you will ever need on their units, and he will be sure you have all of the bits and pieces to install the antenna properly.

Because the antenna would be sticking up 23 feet in the air, we had to give careful consideration to where it would be mounted. If it was placed on the side of the flybridge, it would be about 17 feet above the bimini and not exactly ideal for us. Another issue would be the run of the cable from the tuner to the antenna itself. Since the radio produces high voltage to the antenna when tuning and transmitting, a special high voltage cable is needed to connect it to the tuner called GTO 15. Only the inner core wire is used and a simple crimp on connector is attached at one end to the tuner via an insulated connection and a wing nut on the opposite end from the connections to the main unit. The important factor here is that the GTO cable MUST be kept away from all other electrical wiring, panels and electronic equipment, especially autopilots. The GTO connection cable is also part of the antenna itself and puts out significant RF. For our installation, we were able to run the GTO from the tuner, behind a space along our main salon settee, to an unused open space behind the medicine cabinet in the aft head. There was also access to this space to mount the base of the antenna. The base that we purchased from Morad allows us to lay the antenna down when transiting under bridges. This same area allowed us to mount the antenna almost at the deck level, so it only rises above the bimini about 7 feet. It looks better esthetically and functions as it should.

At 23 feet in length, an intermediate support is needed as high up as possible. Since our installation put the antenna behind the bimini frame, the next logical place was the rail at the aft end of the flybridge. The support supplied from Morad was very well made and they even made us a special attachment for the one-inch rail since the support was designed to fit a two-inch tube. This put the support at about 8 feet and made the antenna quite secure. There is a simple latch that allows the antenna to be released and lowered down to the deck if needed. We ordered the UPS version of the antenna, so named because it came in three pieces, the two longest being eight feet. This allowed us to ship it UPS without expensive extra charges. The two lower sections are powdered coated aluminum and the top section is stainless steel. The whole antenna is very well made and very robust. We don't envision any problems, even in high winds and heavy seas. With the tuner now connected to the antenna, it was time to connect the power to the radio. When the positive and negative wires are connected to the battery, you will get a spark. This is normal.

One additional piece of advise for the installation. We have found that no matter how well the install, there always seems to be interference to or from other electrical equipment. Our 12-volt fans were the only culprit this time, but in the past, other equipment has caused problems. Refrigeration, alternators and most electric motors will make a lot of noise on frequency. Keeping all of the cables and wires as far away as possible will help as will connecting the power cable directly to the batteries. If all else fails, we find the clip-on ferrites can help with the noise and leaking RF. These ferrites on both ends of any cables, as close to the attachment point as possible, makes a significant difference. Attached to the power cords for fans and motors near the motor itself will help, and sometimes several will be needed. Ferrites can be found at almost any electronics supplier and should be sized to fit the wire as snugly as possible. To find the source of any interference, turn on the radio and tune it to the noisiest frequency. Then, turn the power off one at a time to each electrical source on the boat. The noise will go away as soon as you find the culprit. Then, either move some wiring or add the ferrites. With everything in place, it was time to test the rig.

We were absolutely delighted that our first radio check on frequency from another boat about 300 miles away got us a "loud and clear." Since Susan is a licensed Ham operator, she has been able to check in on the Maritime Mobile Net and also received good signal reports. This is especially good since we are at the dock and broadcasting from a marina with lots of sailboat masts, a large metal building, etc. which can be problematic. It appears that the rig and installation works as advertised and the only thing left is the connection of our Pactor Modem. The Pactor allows us to connect the Icom to our computer and send and receive emails, as well as weather fax and other weather products from NOAA that are broadcast by the U.S. Coast Guard. The Pactor is connected to the Icom via a special cable that is attached to the back of the Pactor and the ACC connection on the Icom main unit. This allows the Pactor to communicate with the Icom, but another cable is needed to connect the Pactor to our computer. Our Pactor is an older IIe model that connects to the computer through a serial port. Since most computers today, especially laptops, don't have serial ports, we need a USB to Serial cable to make the connection. The cable must be compatible with our computer operating system and have the appropriate drivers. The newer Pactors are capable of connecting directly via USB.

The Pactor and computer communicate through a great software program called Winlink Airmail. This is free to Ham operators as long as it is not used for business purposes. It will also function with a SSB through a service called Sailmail, which is a paid service. We have used Airmail for years and although it has limitations, we find it invaluable when we are in out of the way areas and need to send or receive emails from family and friends. It will also give us the ability to download weatherfax and Grib files to make our passage planning safer and more comfortable based on the weather. Susan like to participate in several of the SSB and Ham nets and we can even get phone patches through other Hams if we are in very remote anchorages where no other communication is available. All in all, we are extremely happy with our new installation and one more piece of equipment is checked off the list.

Here are some Cruisers Nets for the Caribbean from Noonsite....

Bahamas Cruiser Net
VHF Channel 68
08:15 local time for Marsh Harbour Abaco, Bahamas.
Bahamas Weather (BASRA)
4003 kHz at 1100 UTC
Caribbean
6215 kHz at 1000 UTC (Uncontrolled 1000-1200).
Caribbean Maritime Mobile Net
Run by Lou, call sign KV4JC, on 7241 kHz at 1100 UTC. At 1115 UTC weather forecast from St. John (USVI). Following this report on 7086 kHz FAX, Slow Scan TV and other weather info etc.
Caribbean SSB Weather Net
Controller Dave. 8104 kHz at 1230-1300 UTC and 12362 kHz at 1300-1330 UTC. Comprehensive Weather for Caribbean region.
Caribbean SW Net
8107 kHZ at 1330 UTC. Weather and information Caribbean coast of Panama and Colombia.
Caribbean Safety and Security Net http://www.safetyandsecuritynet.com, SVSecondM@aol.com
An interactive high frequency radio network of cruising yachts which meets each morning on SSB 8104.0 at 1215 UTC for the purpose of exchanging information with regard to safety and security concerns while cruising in the Eastern Caribbean. More info at their website.
Marine Weather Centre
Chris Parker
Tel: 001 863-248-2702 www.mwxc.com, info@mwxc.com
Opening Hours: Telephone Best times 10am-2pm EST (except Weds 10-1)
Custom weather reports for the Carribbean, Bahamas and Eastern Atlantic Ocean via SSB, phone or web. See website for more details.
Maritime Mobile Service Network http://www.mmsn.org/
The Maritime Mobile Service Net is operational every day from 12:00 p.m. until 9:00 p.m. Eastern Time, and from 12:00 p.m. until 10:00 p.m. Eastern Time during Daylight Savings, on a frequency of 14.300 MHz., in the 20-meter amateur band. The network also operates on the alternate frequency of 14.313 MHz. The Maritime Mobile Service Network immediately follows The Intercontinental Traffic Net. Coverage extends via relay stations to most of the Atlantic Ocean, Mediterranean Sea, the Caribbean Sea and the Eastern Pacific Ocean.
Salty Southeast Cruisers Net www.cruisersnet.net
Up-to-date information about cruising southeastern United States and the Bahamas.
Southbound II - Herb's Weather http://www3.sympatico.ca/hehilgen/vax498.htm
12C (12359) kHz at 2000 UTC. Covering the North Atlantic and the Caribbean. Limited coverage is available for the South Atlantic and the Eastern Pacific subject to HF propagation.

Possible GPS Outages

2011-07-14T13:32:00.001-05:00

There has been a lot of discussion recently on how the U.S. government could possibly allow LightSquared, an independent 4G LTE provider, to put up 4,600 transcievers sending broadband data services in the L band with such power that could significantly interfere with nearby GPS frequencies. Possibly causing complete failure for a high quality civilian GPS like your automobile GPS, even under an open sky, and for critical units such as those used in aviation. The GPS units on our boats that we have become so dependent on can also be affected according to major GPS manufacturers that have been doing extensive testing. There has been quite a discussion over at the Panbo Website for a few months now and there is a lot of details on the current status. This morning I received an email from the Coalition To Save Our GPS with an urgent Call To Action. I think everyone might want to read this and consider responding.

With all of the twists and turns presented by Lightsquared, it may be time for all of us as boaters to voice our concern and let our Representatives in Congress know we are less than pleased with the possibilities. Here is Mary Hanley's email.......

We hope will take a moment to file your comments with the FCC about the LIghtSquared proposal. Please also feel free to share the information below with your employees, members, colleagues and other concerned GPS users. The link provided will take them to an easy-to-use express filing form. If you want to file more extensive comments at this link you can do so at this link: http://www.fcc.gov/ecfs-expert. Be certain to personalize your comments. The FCC may discount mass and duplicate submissions. The Coalition to Save Our GPS will also be filing comments. The “reply to comments” period is August 1-15.

HELP SAVE OUR GPS!

Please Submit your Comments to the FCC by July 30

Background

In January, the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) conditionally allowed a company called LightSquared to offer wireless broadband services in radio frequency bands adjacent to those used by GPS receivers. Based on feedback from public and private sector GPS users, the FCC told LightSquared that it could not launch service until testing could be completed to determine the extent of the problems that LightSquared would cause. The report of that testing was submitted to the FCC on June 30^th and it showed that there would be massive interference to GPS from LightSquared’s proposed operations. The FCC has asked for feedback from the public on the report. Comments will be taken until Saturday, July 30.

What can I do?

Everyone who cares about GPS should let the FCC know about the threat that LightSquared poses. In writing to the FCC, we encourage you to cover the following points in your own words:

· How you use GPS technology in your business and/or personal life

· What would happen to your business/personal life if GPS became unavailable or unreliable

· While more capacity for wireless broadband services is important, it should not come at the expense of GPS, which is critical to our country’s economy

· The results of the testing that were performed at the FCC’s request are conclusive – they show that GPS reception would be wiped out by LightSquared’s proposed service.

· Now that the test results have shown interference to GPS, the FCC shouldn’t allow LightSquared to keep trying out modified versions of its plan to use the spectrum near the GPS band. LightSquared’s operations and GPS are fundamentally incompatible and the FCC should order LightSquared out of that band.

How do I tell the FCC to save GPS?

The FCC has an easy-to-use portal on its website to submit feedback on the testing results:

(1) Click on this link for the FCC’s Electronic Comments Filing System (ECFS): http://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/ecfs/upload/begin?procName=&filedFrom=X

(2) In the box which says “Proceeding Number,” type: 11-109. It is important to include this docket number with your comments.

(3) In the designated boxes, enter (a) your name or your company’s name, and (b) your mailing address/city/state/zip.

(4) In the box which says “Type in or paste your brief comments,” do so. Click “Continue”.

(5) A review page will load listing all of the information entered. If correct, click “Confirm.” (6) If you have trouble, contact the FCC ECFS Helpdesk at 202-418-0193 or e-mail at ecfshelp@fcc.gov.

Mary F. Hanley

Prism Public Affairs

1825 Eye Street. NW – Suite 600

Washington, DC 20006

O: 202-207-3664

C: 202-258-9048

mhanley@prismpublicaffairs.com

www.prismpublicaffairs.com

NOAA Encourages Boaters to Get Up-to-Date Nautical Charts

2011-06-14T12:03:00.004-05:00

NOAA charts available free online and through “print-on-demand” service

Nearly 13 million registered boaters in the U.S. are priming to hit the water. As part of their preparations, boaters need to make sure that they have the latest NOAA nautical charts on hand to avoid groundings or accidents while navigating along the coast. With modern technological advancements, obtaining the latest chart is easier — and more important — than ever.

“Sailing the oceans and Great Lakes doesn’t have to be a voyage into the vast unknown of ages past,” explained Capt. John Lowell, director of NOAA’s Office of Coast Survey. “Obtaining the latest charts that provide increasingly precise depths and up-to-date navigational features can be as easy as clicking a link on a website.”

Because storms alter seafloors, and water depths constantly change due to shifting shoals and submerged hazards, NOAA’s Office of Coast Survey is charged with maintaining the nation’s suite of over 1,000 nautical charts, covering about 3.5 million square nautical miles of ocean coasts and the Great Lakes.

NOAA updates its charts weekly using hydrographic survey data that is collected by the agency, along with the most current U.S. Coast Guard Local Notice to Mariners, National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency Notice to Mariners, and other critical safety information reported by commercial mariners or other sources. Recreational boaters may also submit information or chart discrepancies through the Office of Coast Survey’s website: http://nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/.

While some traditionalists enjoy manually applying important new changes made after the chart was published, applying updates to paper charts can be time-consuming, tedious and error-prone. One of the most important and convenient navigational products is the official “print-on-demand” (POD) nautical chart.

“Recreational boaters, unlike commercial mariners, are not required to carry nautical charts. But as more demands are put on our waterways, busy coasts mean more risk for accidents,” Lowell said. “By using print-on-demand paper charts that are updated by NOAA cartographers, people have a better chance of avoiding potential groundings and other accidents.”

Through a private-public partnership between NOAA and chart publisher OceanGrafix over the past 10 years, boaters can purchase “print-on-demand” nautical charts that cover the latest updates, issued as recently as the prior week. This year, the NOAA partnership has expanded and, for the first time, boaters can purchase National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency (NGA) charts covering the open ocean from OceanGrafix.
“Conscientious boaters know nothing replaces the peace of mind that comes with having an accurate paper chart on board,” explained OceanGrafix president Ron Walz. “Whether you’re sailing in familiar waters or charting a more elaborate course, nautical charts serve as a trustworthy complement to electronic systems — and they’re important insurance when the unexpected happens.”

A POD chart is printed at the time of purchase and contains chart updates up until the time of purchase. When a customer orders a chart from an OceanGrafix agent, the chart is printed and shipped within one day. NOAA certifies OceanGrafix print-on-demand charts for navigational use.

NOAA is a proud sponsor of Alliance for Safe Navigation, which maintains a website that lets mariners check to see the latest changes to NOAA charts.

NOAA’s mission is to understand and predict changes in the Earth’s environment, from the depths of the ocean to the surface of the sun, and to conserve and manage our coastal and marine resources. Visit us online at www.noaa.gov or on Facebook at www.facebook.com/usnoaagov.

Coast Guard Urges EPIRB Owners To Upgrade

2011-06-10T09:09:00.000-05:00

May 20, 2011 Advisory 02-11
Take the Search out of Search and Rescue

Upgrade to GPS enhanced EPIRBs

When Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons (EPIRB) are activated in emergency situations the system transmits vessel identification information to rescuers. Traditional EPIRBs rely on satellite Doppler Shift to identify the distress location. There are a wide variety of Coast Guard approved EPIRBs on the market but many do not have the most up-to-date feature: the ability to transmit the EPIRB’s GPS location.

Several recent casualty investigations have revealed that EPIRB owners are largely unaware that rescue efforts are significantly improved and your vessel’s location transmitted more quickly and accurately when distress signals are initiated by GPS enhanced EPIRBs. GPS enhanced EPIRBs normally save 30 to 100 minutes in obtaining an accurate location. This is a significant amount of time and may mean the difference between life or death in cold water situations where the survival rate is decreased as each minute passes. New GPS enhanced EPIRBs provide a location accurate within 100 meters in 50 to 120 seconds. The GPS enhanced EPIRB not only alerts immediately, but also directs rescuers to a more exact location, allowing helicopter flight time to be devoted to rescue operations rather than conducting search operations.

An illustration of the effectiveness of GPS enhanced EPIRBs was the March 23, 2008 sinking of the F/V ALASKA RANGER in the Bering Sea 120 miles west of Dutch Harbor with 47 people on board. The vessel’s Category I EPIRB was not enhanced with GPS which resulted in a delay in analyzing the data. In contrast, a personal EPIRB carried by a fisheries observer on board was outfitted with GPS, and it took only 11 minutes to identify that EPIRB’s distress location. Fortunately a distress call was also made using the single side-band radio and rescuers immediately responded.

Since May 30th 2008, the Commercial Fishing Safety Advisory Committee has recommended that all new EPIRBs installed onboard commercial fishing vessels include an integral GPS receiver to permit automatic inclusion of position in the distress alert.

The National Transportation Safety Board in their recent Marine Accident Brief on the sinking of the commercial fishing vessel LADY MARY recommended to the Federal Communication Commission that for commercial vessels required to carry 406-MHz EPIRBs, those EPIRBs be required to broadcast vessel position data when activated.

The Coast Guard strongly urges vessel Owner/Operators to replace and upgrade existing EPIRBs with GPS enhanced EPIRBs.

This advisory is for informational purposes only and does not relieve any domestic or international safety, operational or material requirement. Developed by the USCG 13th District Prevention Staff. Questions may be forwarded to HQS-PF-fldr-G-PCA@uscg.mil.

Distributed by: office of Investigations and Analysis Http://marineinvestigations.us To subscribe: Kenneth.W.Olsen@uscg.mil

What Cruisers Want To Know About The Bahamas

2011-05-05T19:59:00.000-05:00

This is not usually the time of year most cruisers think about going to the Bahamas. But this is the time of year that a few adventurous cruisers know the anchorages will be a whole lot less crowded and the marinas will be offering deals. What got me thinking about the Bahamas was a presentation that Susan and I recently gave to the MTOA (Marine Trawler Owners Association) in Stuart Florida for their Southern Rendezvous. This year the Rendezvous was held at the Hutchinson Island Marriott Beach Resort & Marina. MTOA functions are well-attended and this one was no exception. The presentation covered some of the important questions that cruisers heading over for the first time ask.

Preparations.
To get to the Bahamas, the boat and crew need to be prepared well before the departure from the U.S. First and foremost, the boat must be ready for an open-water crossing of the Gulf Stream. Make no mistake, this is a serious transit and should not be taken lightly. A full complement of current safety equipment needs to be on board and in good working order. The usual equipment, such as flares, signaling devices and flotation devices, to name a few, are a must. Good communications equipment is also essential. Unless you are in sight of another boat, at some point, the VHF and cell phones will not help in contacting someone should you need help. An HF radio is a very good option.

The crew needs to be prepared as well. Are some prone to seasickness and will this be their first crossing? If so, are there seasick remedies on board. Nothing is worse than a debilitated crew when you need them. If specific medications or prescriptions are needed, be sure to fill all of those beforehand. Does anyone on board have any special needs that might not be available in remote areas of the Bahamas? All of this needs serious consideration and should be addressed well before heading off.

Provisioning the vessel is another daunting task. Many items are cheaper to purchase in the U.S. and much easier to find. Other items are cheaper in the Bahamas due to government subsidies. Any special dietary requirements should be well-stocked.

What Should I Know?
The big questions are, where should I cross, what weather is best to cross and can I get cell phone service in the Bahamas? In years past, the big questions included, what direction should I take to cross the banks, where are the best anchorages and where can I get provisions? Now everyone wants to know about cell phones and Internet service. Is that what cruising has become? How do we stay online and still be able to call home? I did my best to answer some of those questions, especially for the several boats that planned to cross for the first time.

Where Do Your Cross From?
That depends on where you want to go. If heading for the Abacos, the best place to leave might be Ft. Lauderdale. Many cruisers cross over to West End from Lake Worth Inlet. While that is the shortest distance, you will have to take a heading south to go east, and since West End is slightly south of Lake Worth you will actually be working against the Gulf Stream and you don't want to do that. The Gulf Stream is a river of water that runs from south to north between the Florida coast and the Bahamas. The currents can run from 2 1/2 knots up to 4 knots. Going against the current will slow you down and make the trip longer. But if you take advantage of the current, you can get a boost in speed and cover a longer distance in less time. Lake Worth to West End is about 56 miles, while Ft. Lauderdale to West End is about 69 miles, but can be done in less time. Of course, this also depends on how fast your boat can go. Likewise, it is a better run from Ft. Lauderdale to Freeport rather than Lake Worth. The same applies for transiting to Bimini or Cat/Gun Cay. Miami is a much better angle to cross, and Key Biscayne, even better.

What is the right weather to cross?
We have often sat behind Key Biscayne for days waiting for the right weather window to cross over. If I can offer any advise on weather to make the crossing, it can be summed up in three words. Wait, wait and wait. We had the opportunity to spend some time with Bruce Van Sant (Gentleman's Guide To Passages South) and he gave us some excellent advise for making the crossing. Wait until the weather forecast is appropriate and is the same for at least today, tonight and tomorrow. That means a good forecast for at least 48 hours, with no fronts or significant changes in wind strength or direction. Crossing the Gulf Stream can be anywhere from uncomfortable to downright dangerous if attempted under the wrong conditions. A crossing should never be attempted with winds out of the northern quadrant and over 10 to 12 knots. Even 10 knot northerlies blowing for a couple of days will make for a very uncomfortable ride. Also, allow 24 hours for the seas to lay down after a northern blow. A north wind against a strong southerly current can make for some nasty seas.

So what is the right weather? Ideally, southerly winds in the northerly flowing Stream are best, as long as they are not blowing too hard. Wind and current should be running in the same direction. But as we all know, as boaters, ideal almost never happens. What you will find more most often is easterly winds, and occasionally westerlies. As long as these are light to moderate, you can make a safe crossing and still be fairly comfortable. For sailors, this means motoring all the way over in east winds. We much prefer a crossing that would have us motoring, since it means light conditions. Typically, we would leave from behind Key Biscayne at around 5 a.m. and cross over onto the banks in the early afternoon. This puts the sun behind you when arriving in the shallow waters of the banks and gives you better visibility to read the water for depth. Once you have crossed the Gulf Stream, unless you have a very fast boat, you will spend several hours crossing the banks to get to your first destination. Slips are available at West End and the marina at North Cat Cay if you get caught with the weather changing. But those marinas are very expensive and you could get trapped for several days, unable to go anywhere. Again, depending on boat speed, it can take another day to get to the Berry's, New Providence or well into the Abacos. That is the need for a full, two day weather window.

Clearing into the Bahamas.
The current fees for entry into the Bahamas for a boat and crew is $150.00 for a boat up to 35 feet and $300.00 for a boat over 35 feet. The boat is issued a cruising permit valid for 8 months. But the crew is issued visitors visas that technically, by law are good for 30 days. After the 30 days, your stay can be extended. But there are some rules. You must apply for your extension two days before your time is up, and not sooner, and there are specific locations where you can apply for an extension. But as with all things in the Bahamas, this is not always the case. Bahamian Immigrations Officers can, if they choose, give you a visa for 90 days or even 120 days. Where you check in and which Immigration Officer you get will determine how long of a stay you will get. Remember, this is for the crew. The check in fees include a fishing license. It is also important that there be both Customs and Immigrations Officers at your check in. If only a Customs Officer is present, you will only get 30 days since that is all they can legally issue. The best places to check in to get a longer stay are Bimini, Nassau, Chub Cay, West End, Port Lucaya, Marsh Harbor, Freeport or Georgetown. Extensions will not exceed 8 months.

Can I use my cell phone in the Bahamas?
Believe it or not, this is the biggest question I get when discussing cruising in the Bahamas. Verizon probably won’t work and neither will Sprint. Both use CDMA technology which is only supported by BTC in Nassau (for the cruise ship passengers I guess). AT&T and T-Mobile use GSM, as does most of the rest of the world. To have cell phone service in the Bahamas, you will need an unlocked quad band GSM phone. Verizon does have "Global" phones that use both CDMA and GSM, but they will be locked to Verizon. The reason the phones must be unlocked is to allow the purchase and use of BTC Sim Cards. With these Sim cards, you will be able to make calls within the Bahamas with a Bahama's phone number and make and receive calls from the U.S. and elsewhere at a fairly cheaper rate than you might pay in roaming charges should your cell phone from a U.S. provider work. These unlocked phones can be purchased in the Bahamas or in places like Walmart in the U.S. Additional minutes can be added to these Sim cards as needed. You can also rent phones, but this adds the rental charge to your phone expense. To use cell phones in the Bahamas, you will need to be close to a cell tower. Beside major cities like Nassau, Freeport and others, cell towers are located in the Exumas at Highbourne, Staniel, Black Point, Farmers and Great Exuma Cays. Outside of these areas, you can probably not count on service. The Abacos do seem to have better coverage.

Internet Service.
You can get connected in the Bahamas in many areas, but again, the remote Cays will not have WiFi service. There are several paid services available in many populated harbors, and you can pay as you go for a day, week or subscribe for longer service. This will be expensive compared to what might be found in the U.S., but if you must get online, it is worth it. Don't count on high speed connections equal to broadband. And don't count on always keeping a connection. Free WiFi connections can still be found in some areas, but these are few and far between and should not be counted on. You should also take care in protecting your WiFi connections, and see our post here on some ideas to protect your computer. Internet Cafes are still available in larger settlements, and you can carry your laptop and connect or use the Cafe's computers. Care should be taken to keep your computer dry, especially if you are out in your dinghy. Care should also be taken when using secure sites or transmitting personal information at Internet Cafes.

It truly amazes me that these are the subjects most new cruisers are now interested in prior to their first time in the Bahamas. In previous presentations, folks wanted to know about the availability of provisions, what the best anchoring spots were and where the best snorkeling places could be found. We always had questions about the best course and time to cross the banks and where the really shallow passages were. But things have changed quite a bit and cell phones and Internet Service are the topics of the day. My how times have changed. We have touched on only a few of the things boaters need to know to head over to the Islands. If anyone has any additional questions, you can post them in the Comments section and we will be happy to answer them as soon as we have another WiFi Connection. Good luck, stay safe and above all else, have fun.

Extended Use Fuel Tank For A Honda Generator In 4 Easy Steps

2011-04-21T21:33:00.001-05:00

One of the pieces of equipment on our to do list is a generator. We much prefer to anchor out when cruising and at times we can get weathered in for days. During those extended stays we still like coffee in the morning, still have the need to recharge the batteries and like to watch TV. All of this uses power and we have been using our handy Honda 2000 portable generator until we can have a more permanent installation. The Honda will handle most of our power needs, with the exception of the air conditioning system. But that suits us just fine for now. One of the things I don't like to do is to fill the built in tank every day when the generator is in constant use and for long term when charging that batteries it might mean shutting the generator down, filling the fuel tank, and starting it again. It is also hard to fill the tank without spilling gas on the deck, especially if the boats gets waked. So, the need for a remote extended fuel tank. To build one of these only takes a few inexpensive fittings, a fuel tank and about an hour of your time, at the most.

The first thing that I did was to buy a spare cap for the built fuel tank in case I messed up doing this, or if I wanted to run without the extended tank. I found it locally for $15.00 from a Honda dealer in the area. Next was to get all of the miscellaneous parts. We decide on a 3 gallon tank instead of the larger 6 gallon since we don't run the generator that much. We already have a 3 gallon tank for the dinghy outboard so this could also be used as a spare. We also decided we wanted to be able to use the same fuel line as the dinghy outboard so we would not have to carry different fuel lines and again it could do double duty. To accomplish this we would need the attachment fitting that would be the same as on the one on the dinghy tank and on our Johnson Outboard. The two fittings totaled about another $15.00 and then another $4.00 for a brass hose barb. The plastic fuel tank was another $25.00. The assmebly was pretty easy.

Step 1.
Remove the inner workings of the fuel cap and drill out the center to fit the connector. Be careful to not drill the hole too large. It should be slightly under sized to allow the fitting to be screwed into the plastic cap.

Step 2.
Fill a thin amount of epoxy around the threaded base of the fuel line fitting inside the cap and screw on the female brass hose barb. Allow the epoxy to dry and them replace the rubber gasket inside the cap. The hose barb may or may not be needed but it makes the connection fitting stay in tight and I beleive it will help to draw the fuel into the generators built in tank.

Step 3.
Install the second connector fitting into the fuel tank.

Step 4.
Fill the fuel tank with gas, fill the generator built in fuel tank with gas, connect the fuel lines and start the generator. Be sure the vent on the fuel tank is open. That's it.

It is very important that the cap be completely sealed. If any air can leak at the cap, the generator will not pull fuel from the extended tank. As the vacuum builds up in the internal fuel tank for the Honda, it will pull fuel from the extended tank. Mark the generator tank so that oil will not get added to it by mistake like the outboard tank. The Honda does not require a fuel/oil mix. The Honda will now run for a much longer time and annoy your neighbors for hours.

There are many variations for doing this, using a 6 gallon tank, installing only hose barbs, putting an inline filter in the fuel line. But the basics are the same. This should work just fine for us until the permanent genset is installed.

Adding and Re-installing Switches

2011-01-19T13:36:00.001-06:00

With the main electrical panel now replaced, there were a few small things that were unfinished and now is as good a time as any to get those done. The bilge pump switch for the secondary mid-ship bilge pump has been out for some time now. It was temporarily mounted in the forward hanging locker after the smaller secondary electrical panel was installed, but it was not convenient to get to. We did the installation for the anchor windlass some time back, but the helm switches to raise and lower the anchor from the steering location has not been done.

These are the kinds of small projects that I like to do over the winter months to have everything ready for any spring cruising we might want to do. The bilge pump switch will be mounted directly over the sub panel for the Air-Conditioning. The switch was originally mounted where the electrical panel is now, but whoever installed the switch did a really sloppy job of cutting the hole, and that was another consideration when deciding where to mount the AC panel. But I did want to keep it close to that location because it was easy to see, and I can reach the manual switch, even when standing in the front of the engine compartment. And because this is a toggle switch, it will be behind the steering wheel, so it can't get bumped accidentally.

The first thing that I did was to make a template out of a piece of cardboard so that I could get the hole exact and have everything lined up straight. With the template in place, I can trace out the area that needs to be cut out for the switch and LED light with a marker. I then tape around that area with easy release tape so that the wood is not damaged when the cuts are made. Teak plywood can be tricky to cut, and if you are not careful, the plywood will splinter and leave a ragged edge. So I first score the plywood surface with a utility knife to eliminate splitting and chipping, and drill a hole in the center of the cut out area.

The next step is to cut the hole, and my favorite tool for this, and many other small projects, is my Dremel Tool. I have the saber saw attachment that can be used directly on the Dremel or can be attached to the
flexible shaft attachment. I am always careful to make my cuts inside the area that I scored with the utility knife. This is the method I use for mounting any switches, electronic displays or gages.

Once the hole is cut I like to insert the switch to be sure there is enough clearance for the inner workings and that the switch can be aligned with everything around it. One work of caution, BEFORE drilling or cutting, check the area behind the spot to be sure you will not drill or cut any plumbing or electrical wiring. Once I am satisfied with everything, a thorough vacuuming is in order. Usually Susan is standing next to me with the vacuum running as I am cutting, sanding or drilling. But this time she was not on the boat, so I have to do a good job in the clean up.

Next step is to connect up all of the wiring. The tools are basic - a good pair of wire strippers, wire cutters, crimpers, my multi-tip screw driver, some wire ties, my favorite wire tie cutters (fingernail clippers), and a tube of silicone grease. With all of the electrical work on the boat, a good coating of silicone grease is added to both sides of every connection. We have almost never had a corrosion problem with any connections over the years using silicone grease. Just as with the larger electrical panels, before I removed the wires from the switch, I labeled them so it would be easy to put them back correctly.

I also like to be sure all of the wires are just long enough that should I have to work on the switch again, I can pull it a distance out of the hole to make working on it or rewiring easier. A bit longer length of wire allows for repairs should the need come up to cut and replace the ends with new connectors. At this point, everything is secured with wire ties to keep it neat.

The final step is to mount the entire switch. I use a small carpenters level to be sure it is aligned and mark the location of the screw holes. I then drill a small hole where the screws go to keep the wood from splitting. Everything is mounted and looking just as I planned.

The next switch is the anchor up and down switch, and the process to locate and install that is exactly the same as the bilge pump switch. This one needs to be in a location that is easy to reach while at the helm and since both of us are right handed, the right side of the helm seemed natural. We can also reach it from just outside the sliding door to the main salon, at the steering station. This one took a bit more wiring, since it needed to be run to the reversing switch for the windlass. But it was still simple and straightforward, and now two more items are off the to-do list. On to the next one.

Replacing The Boats Main Electrical Panel

2011-01-10T18:52:00.002-06:00

One of the major projects on my to-do list is finally finished. The original 30-year-old main electrical panel is now a thing of the past, and several of the upgrades I have been wanting to do are finally finished. Before I even begin, let me add a strong word of caution here. If you are, in any way, unfamiliar with the electrical systems on a boat or unsure of your capabilities, don't try and tackle this yourself. I have been doing this for a living for many years, so I have already made all of the mistakes, and a misstep in working with either the DC side or the AC side of a boats electrical systems can have devastating affects for not only yourself, but every other boat nearby.

A terrible marina fire at McCotter's Marina, Washington, NC has been traced to an electrical issue on board one of the boats in a covered slip. Doing any electrical repairs or upgrades to your boat can have disastrous consequences if not properly done. These kinds of projects should not be taken lightly considering the potential for disaster. Having said that, the replacement went rather well with few surprises, after all this is a boat.

Rather than try and list all of the proper tools, I consider a picture worth at least a thousand words. If you plan on doing any electrical work on the boat for repairs, upgrades or additions, I highly recommend that you spend a few extra dollars and get the proper tools and not cut corners. Your average inexpensive hardware store crimpers and strippers may not be the best choice. At a minimum, I like to use a pair of strippers that allow me to be specific with the wire size and will not damage the wire itself while removing the outer covering. Most of the wiring problems I have encountered comes from two issues. One is corrosion which is a constant battle on a boat, and the other is from faulty connectors. Faulty connectors are usually a result of poor crimping in the installation process. For just this reason, I never used the typical hardware store variety of wire crimpers. It is my opinion that only a quality pair of ratcheting crimpers should ever be used on a boat. I actually have a couple of different pairs depending on what and where I am working. In addition, I have a heavy duty crimper for large cables, but they are very expensive, and unless you plan to do a lot of this type of work, not worth the expense, in my opinion. Another invaluable tool, is a circuit tester, especially working on older boats where previous owners have added and removed wiring without any identification. It allows me to chase down both ends of any wire and determine if it should be connected somewhere or removed. And of course, a good multi-meter is a must have on the boat at any time to troubleshoot or do repairs.

My first step was to be sure all power to the existing panel was disconnected. The shore power cord was completely disconnected and the main battery cables also removed. Since the battery cables were scheduled for replacement anyway, now was a good time to start the removal process. The biggest challenge is to keep track of which wires go where. The new panel was made for me by Paneltronics and is their 5401 analog model. I chose this one for several reasons. I have used Paneltronics line for a long time and always found them to be of very good quality. The 5401 would allow me to customize the breakers in any fashion I needed, and most importantly, the panel fit quite well in the space where the old panel came out. This meant I would not have to make any modifications to the bulkhead, which would add a lot of additional time and work to the project. In the process of removing the existing wiring, I carefully labeled each wire as to what load it feeds and was very careful to keep the DC and AC separated and easily identifiable. The original panel had the battery switch included, but the new panel would not, so all of the connections for the batteries were completely removed. This is very tedious, but an extremely important process. A small label-maker is very helpful at this time. This is also a good time to separate and organize the wiring if it looks like a plate of spaghetti before you start. It is also a good time to have a close look at all of the connectors and give each a good hard yank to be sure they are secure. Any that look suspect should be replaced, and all of them should get a cleaning and coating. I like CRC product for cleaning the connectors and adding a protective coating. Once all of the wiring was removed and sorted out, the old panel could be removed. The next step was to mount the new panel, and since the dimensions were very close to the old panel, this was the easiest part of the entire installation.

Once the new panel was mounted in place, all of that wiring had to be reconnected. If I had the time, I would do a complete rewire of the entire system. But since this would be a massive undertaking and that good old work thing takes up much of my time, I chose to only replace wiring that was suspect or that obviously needed to be replaced. There were quite a few, but fortunately, during many of our other projects, we have already replaced many runs. I generally start from the top of the panel, which in this case is the DC side, and work down. Once all of the DC is re-installed, the AC side is done. I did upgrade some of the wiring from the shore power inlets, from the number 10 wiring to number 8 on one of the inlets. Of the two, on the one we installed, we used number 8 wire. The shore power is connected via a transfer switch that feeds the panel from the shore power or from the inverter. The second shore power inlet only feeds the smaller AC sub panel that we installed earlier. This smaller panel only feeds the circuit for the air conditioning at this time, but we can add other circuits later if need be.

During the replacement of the panel, I also added new Blue Seas bus bars for the AC ground (green wires) the AC neutral (white wires) and the DC grounds. This cleaned up the wiring considerably, made all of the connections neater and gave me the chance to replace all of the connectors. Once all of the wiring was reconnected, everything was checked and double checked to be sure the right wire was connected to the right breaker and everything on the AC side of the panel was indeed AC, and the same for the DC side. With all of this completed it was time to move on to connecting the batteries to the DC side of the panel.

The battery cables were the original copper wire cables that were installed by the boatbuilder. They were probably too small and were connected via two battery banks. My new house bank is combined to have all of the batteries make up a single large bank. This improves the efficiency of the house bank and increases the longevity. With this set up, there only needs to be a single cable from the house bank to the DC panel and a single on and off switch, rather than a 1,2 or a "both" switch that was on the old panel. In each installation, this might be different depending on the set up and the needs of the owner. Some like to have the start battery on the switch so it can be combined with the house bank in an emergency. I prefer to have the start battery totally separate and have a set of jumper cables in the engine compartment should this be necessary. With this set up, there is no danger of me forgetting to change the switch and killing all of the batteries. But this is a matter of personal preference. The run from the house bank to the panel is a short one, and #2 wiring is more than sufficient to make the connections. Both the positive and negative cables were replaced as was the battery switch. In calculating wire size, the maximum amps that can be carried on the wiring and the length of wire round trip, from the battery bank to the panel and back to the batteries, need to be factored in. Likewise the battery switch needs to be sized properly. An excellent calculator for wiring size can be found here. What works in our installation may or may not be correct for another. A good solid connection on the cable ends is also very important in making up these cables. Some installers like to do a combination of soldering and crimping on battery cables. Myself, I prefer crimping only, but it must be done right. This is where my serious cable crimpers come in to play. I also use a heat shrink tube on every cable connection to prevent internal corrosion and to keep the connections neat and clean. This is done on all connections to the batteries and with any wiring used in the bilge or a wet area. For smaller wiring I use heat shrink connectors. I do not use heat shrink connectors on smaller wire, other than battery cables, that connect on the panel. But that is just my choice, since these connectors are considerably more expensive. I also installed fuses on the battery terminals for added protection and security. These fuses must be sized correctly.

With all of the connections completed, the moment of truth is at hand. Everything has been checked, double checked and triple checked. For me, there is always a bit of anxiety in firing up an electrical panel for the first time, no matter how many times I have done it. For me, the DC is the least scary, so that is the one I check first. It was simply a matter of throwing the battery switch and then the DC main on the panel. The voltage meter registered fine, and there was no smoke or sizzle. You need to be cautious with electricity or electronics since they are driven by smoke. If you let out all of the smoke, they won't work. So far so good, and one circuit breaker at a time was switched on. Once again, no smoke escaped. Now it was time to check all of the connections and the entire DC side of the panel with my multi-meter to look for problems and anomalies. Everything looked just fine, and the battery voltage was holding correctly for the loads applied. Every circuit was tested and inspected. Next came the really scary part. The AC panel.

With all of the AC circuit breakers off and the transfer switch in the off position, the shore power cord was plugged in. Oh good, no smoke or sizzle. If that were to happen with either DC or AC, the power must be turned off immediately and the problem solved. Once the shore power was plugged in, the transfer switch was changed to the shore power setting and the main breaker turned on at the new panel. Once again, so far so good. One at a time the new breakers were switched on and the voltage meter monitored carefully. All circuits were tested with the multi-meter. This is where it is very important that you know what you are doing since you will be dealing with live 120-volt power. This is no place for the inexperienced and can in fact be life threatening. All of the circuits on the panel checked out fine, and each outlet on the boat was tested for correct polarity and for faults. A simple outlet tester will work just fine, however, some cheap hardware testers may show a fault when none exists. So be sure the problem, if one shows, is in fact the circuit and not the tester. All of the outlets on the boat checked out and none of the GFCI plugs tripped, a good thing. All of the appliances on board were turned on to be sure they all worked. The final step was to transfer from shore power, unplug the cords, and transfer to the inverter. The entire testing process was repeated until I felt comfortable that the system was operating safely and correctly.

A couple of reference books that have been very helpful to me over the years is Nigel Calder's Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual and The 12 Volt Bible. Both are good for both getting started and for planning more advance work.

Finishing a major project like this gives me a real sense of satisfaction and a new comfort level that the electrical system is now even safer that it was before. There are many aspects of the system that still need some work and over time will get done. But for now, we are secure in knowing that a major portion of it is up to date and the components are new. In addition, should anything need to be repaired or any troubleshooting need to be done, we now have intimate knowledge of the systems and where everything can be found. Maybe for the next project I will tackle something a little smaller.

Welcome To 2011 And A Happy And Prosperous New Year

2011-01-07T10:20:00.002-06:00

This comes a little late, but we would like to say Happy New Year to all of our readers and followers. The pace has not slowed down a bit from the end of last year until right now and if anything it has picked up. Our work at Waterway Guide has been both a great experience and very time consuming, and we are about to embark on several new projects for the 2011 boating seasons. We will have lots of announcements to come in the next few months. And of course, all of this slows down the progress on the boat projects, but that was to be expected. I have completed the replacement of the original AC and DC electrical panel and quite a bit of rewiring. I really wanted to post the project by now, but I left the camera on the boat and have not been down to the marina to retrieve it so I can post the photos. I will try and do that over the weekend, since I have received several emails asking when it would be posted. I have been doing some traveling for work, so that is another reason things are behind here on the site. Never enough hours in the day.

We have had a great holiday spending a lot of time with the kids and our grandkids. That was one of the main reasons we returned to the Chesapeake and it has been wonderful. Everyone is happy and healthy. We have had time to spend with old friends we have not seen for a long time and have made some new friends since we have come back. The weather has been cold, but the snows have not been anything like last year (yet!), so we are thankful for that. We have a couple of trips planned to sunny Florida over the next few months so we will get a break now and then. In the meantime, we look forward to an exciting year and hope everyone has a super 2011! Chuck and Susan

Open WiFi On The Boat And Firesheep And Other Man-made Disasters

2010-12-12T18:49:00.002-06:00

One of the most visited pages on this site and our Sea Trek site are the postings for our simple and inexpensive WiFi system that we have been using for years. Many of our cruising friends use WiFi, as we do, to get online, gather weather information, send and receive emails and do all of the other things people do through the Internet. For years, we have used available WiFi, whether from an open access point or from a marina, hotel or restaurant. If anyone has been on a boating site lately, the discussion has turned to Firesheep, a program designed to allow anyone with it on their computer to access your Facebook page while you are logged in and do anything you can do. There is one fellow out there, I won't mention his name, that has been on every boating discussion board on the net, doing his absolute best to scare the crap out of anyone that will listen. This fellow is making some claims that would lead the less educated in all things computer to believe that if a 12 year old has Firesheep on his computer, he can steal your life, take over your identity and clean out your bank account. He would have you believe that if you use any open WiFi, the sky will fall and life as you know it will end.

I suppose there is some motivation for folks to do this and some folks are very good at it. By using these fear tactics, they can announce to the world that you are in great danger and they are here to save the day. I like to call this the Mighty Mouse Syndrome. For the minions that hang on to this individual's every word, it represents something akin to a savior. For the rest of us, it simply creates a lot of anxiety and confusion. Instead of "MY GOD, YOU ARE IN GREAT DANGER," how about, "there is an issue we should all be aware of and I might make some suggestions as to how you can protect yourself." Of course that does not make one seem so important and all powerful. But, I would like to make you aware of an issue and offer some suggestions on how to protect yourself. Now keep in mind that I am not an expert in this field and do not now, or ever have, proclaimed to be one. What I would like to pass on is what has worked for us, and if you would like to use some of our suggestions, great. If you are still confused or unsure, consult a true expert in the field. Be sure they are indeed a true expert and have no nefarious intentions.

First to Firesheep and how much of a threat it might be to you. As I understand this, Firesheep allows someone to grab the cookies from many of the social networks like Facebook, Twitter or Flicker and have the ability to do whatever the real user can do. Now, this is something to consider as a potential threat, to a point. Firesheep only works with Mozilla Firefox browsers. So if you use Internet Explorer, it won't work. This is a free, open source piece of software put out on the net for anyone to download by a fellow named Eric Butler, so he could prove a point and perhaps he has. What I have learned is that Firesheep cannot hijack your computer, get your bank records or allow someone to obtain a credit card in your name. It will allow someone to post on your Facebook page or other social network pages and add or delete your pictures, etc. It will not give them your password since the login page is encrypted. Susan has a Facebook page and I would not want someone doing that, but it would be an annoyance and not earth shattering.

Since the Internet went public, people have been designing ways to get into your computer and grab your personal information. This is nothing new and will probably not change in our lifetime. Firesheep is not one of these programs, but they are out there and it does not matter whether you are using an open WiFi, a secure WiFi or a wired connection. There are ways and people capable of getting in, but they are usually not interested in you and I, especially if we don't make it really really easy for them. So I did say I would share what we do to try and secure our computer and our online activities.

A couple of years ago, I researched a software product called Truecrypt that will encrypt your entire hard drive on your computer. The program is completely free and has had some good reviews and feedback. Once you computer drive is encrypted, no one can access any information without your password. That is important should your computer ever be stolen. It will not interfere with the operation of your computer in any way and is fairly easy to set up. This type of security is great for those of you that have really become paranoid with all of these doomsday reports lately.

One step we took some time back was to do a better job of securing our WiFi and Internet connections, no matter what we used. Sitting in an Internet cafe in Belize or Guatemala, we often wondered who was watching us electronically. We were careful not to do any banking or serious personal work over these connections and that is still good advise today. But we did find that there are ways to encrypt your Internet activities by using a VPN. VPN stands for Virtual Private Network, and a VPN is used to secure data across a network. Even if someone could intercept your data, all they would see is a jumble of gibberish. A VPN is a very simple and easy solution for boaters looking to protect themselves whether on an open WiFi or using your local marinas secure access point. It will also protect you on a wired Internet Provider. One short side of VPN is that the VPN provider itself will be able to see your activity. So knowing the provider is as important as using a VPN, maybe more so. This is complicated by the fact that there are hundreds of VPN providers out there and little in the way of reviews and user feedback. When you use a VPN, it activates an encrypted "tunnel" through your internet connection to the server of the VPN provider. Once it reaches the providers server, it is decrypted and sent on to its intended destination. When the data is being sent back to you, it goes through the VPNs server and is again encrypted before it is sent to you, so once again it can not be accessed by anyone. Many VPNs will also provide you with a spoofed IP address that can not be traced by anyone, giving you even further anonymity. All of this happens in nano seconds so you don't see any difference in your Internet experience. A VPN is a very easy and basic step to help secure your WiFi or other Internet data. If you did nothing else, this will help considerably. Do your homework and research before choosing VPN provider since not all are the same. We used a well known provider for over a year and then their service went straight to hell. Look for the most current reviews and feedback from users.

We also use several software programs on our computers, many are free. For overall Internet protection, we have used Comodo Internet Security for a few years now. It is totally free and has been a good performer in protecting us online. We don't tend to visit potentially harmful sites, but if we get redirected, Comodo has kept us safe. They have received many excellent reviews and recommendations from other trusted sites. The Internet Security suite contains an anti-virus program and a firewall, both needed to protect your computer. We also use a couple of Malware programs. We have used Ad-Aware for a long time and they too have a free version. Many of these free versions also have paid version if you need added security. We also use Malwarebytes and Superantispyware to round out our Malware software. Another recommendation we have just begun using and like very much is IObits which is a more comprehensive program with several useful tools. We use the free version of all of these and they do root out lots of things we don't want on our computer.

So, do we fear that our lives will be stolen if we use WiFi and open WiFi in particular? No we don't, but keep in mind, that is our opinion and we suggest the everyone make their own informed decision based on facts and not smoke and mirrors from another Mighty Mouse, here to save the day. Does that show my age? Now that these individuals have generated so much attention to products like Firesheep, there are probably thousands of people out there downloading it and trying it that would probably never have heard of it or considered it until now. There are always going to be people out there trying to steal your information by whatever means they can. You can do a couple of things to protect yourself and go on with life as usual. Or you could get off line forever and toss your computer into the deepest part of the ocean. As one poster suggested on another site, you could encase it in concrete and use it as a door stop. We don't let the fearmongers control our lives, we control our lives. Unfortunately, today there is too much misinformation and sensationalizing going on around everything we do. It is difficult to sort through the half truths, exaggerations and sometimes downright lies to know what is right and what is bull. I don't know if this information helps or makes things worse for you, but since being able to get online has become important to us and many other cruisers, I thought it should be something for me to share and comment on.

We are working on an upgrade for our WiFi system, that is how committed we are. I will be posting soon about that and how it has been working out so far. I plan to consolidate the two WiFi posts already up and the update very soon. So stay in touch and let us know what you think about this subject.

How do you feel about all of this? Are you concerned, frightened, don't really care? What have you done to make yourself more secure online? Leave a comment and let us know.

Marine Safety Advisory------Distracted Operators

2010-10-29T12:36:00.002-05:00

United States Coast Guard
Assistant Commandant for Marine Safety, Security and Stewardship
Marine Safety Advisory 01-10
October 29, 2010
Washington, DC

DISTRACTED OPERATIONS
Don't let it be you!

Throughout the United States, and across all transportation modes, safety initiatives are being established to address issues related to Distracted Operations. The Coast Guard recognizes the importance of this issue, understands the potential consequences caused by increased operational risk in marine operations, and is supportive of the goals and objectives of the U.S. Department of Transportation and other distracted driving safety initiatives.

With respect to vessel operations, the bridge team management approach to safe navigation is an essential element of risk management and safe vessel operations. The team approach to safe navigation requires the clear, frequent and accurate exchange of information between all crewmembers relative to the safe operation of the vessel. In other evolutions, such as discharging cargo, loading fuels, etc., full attention is required by all involved in order to prevent casualties or pollution incidents. Additionally, when mariners are navigating or working alone, the use of cellular or other devices unrelated to the operation at hand could impede the exchange of vital operational information, delay reaction time, or cause attention lapses of those involved which could result in unwanted circumstances having very serious consequences causing injuries and fatalities, material damage, and environmental impact.

NTSB findings in investigations involving other transportation modes have found that the use of cellular telephones and other wireless devices can degrade performance, slow response times, and increase attention lapses of those in safety-sensitive positions. A recent executive order signed by President Obama prohibits text messaging by federal employees, including contractors, when driving government vehicles or their privately owned vehicles on government business. Most states and the District of Columbia (DOC) have recognized the risk and banned texting while driving. Nine states and the DOC have banned the use of handheld cellular telephones while driving. Lastly, the United States Department of Transportation has established a national initiative focusing on Driving Distracted. (More information is available at http://distraction.gov.)

The potential risk associated with improper use of cellular telephones and other devices in the marine environment while navigating or performing other vessel functions should be apparent to vessel owners and operators.

Consequently, the Coast Guard strongly recommends vessel owners and operators to develop and implement effective operational policies outlining when the use of cellular telephones and other devices is appropriate or prohibited.

This advisory is for informational purposes only and does not relieve any domestic or international safety, operational or material requirement. Developed by the Headquarters Office of Investigations and Analysis. Questions may be forwarded to HQS-PF-fldr-G-PCA@uscg.mil.

+++++

Office of Investigations and Analysis: http://marineinvestigations.us
To subscribe: Kenneth.W.Olsen@uscg.mil

15 Steps To New Ports For The Boat

2010-10-03T20:27:00.004-05:00

Our original 30 year old ports were really looking pretty shabby and a couple of them had begun to leak. We did some temporary caulking, which I don't like to do, but it was obvious that it was time to replace them. After a lot of research, we found some very good looking stainless steel ports at New Found Metals and ordered the 5X12 Stainless with screens and all of the needed materials for installation. We have received a lot of positive feedback from other boaters that have installed their ports and were very happy. The price was pretty good, and the ports arrived in short order. It was time to start the replacement process.

Step 1. Removing the old ports is always a messy process. Ours had a teak trim ring on the outside that came off in pieces. It is hard to tell in the photo, but we used white duct tape around the trim ring so we could get a wide putty knife behind it and not damage the paint in the process. Beach House has had the cabin sides painted with AwlGrip so it is not just gel-coat.

Once the trim ring is removed, the old caulking and crud that has collected under it had to be thoroughly cleaned. We used Acetone and then carefully sanded where the new trim ring would go to help with the bonding of the new caulking.

Step 2. Next, the inside main section of the port had to come out. This is the worst one on the boat and also the one that began to leak again. (Not to mention the fact that it looked horrible.) That is why we started here. The screws came out fairly easily, but since the interior plywood is pretty thin, we had to be very careful to not damage the surrounding wood when pulling this off.

The wide putty knife was used again, and slowly and carefully, we coaxed it off without too much of the veneer on the plywood coming with it. It was actually surprising that it came off so easily. Next, the old caulking had to be gently removed and the wood repaired.

We taped a box over the opening in order to continue working without making a mess on the interior shelf just below the port.

Step 3. There were some spaces and gaps in the plywood core between the outer fiberglass and the interior plywood. We filled the space and gaps with an expandable water resistant foam. Once the foam had set, it was trimmed even with the old opening.

Step 4. We would need to make a template since the new ports were a different shape than the old ones. The new ports have a drain built in, and the corners are shaped slightly different. The overall size of the new ports is very close to the size of the old ones. We took a heavy folder and laid the trim ring on top. With a rubber mallet we tapped all around the trim ring and made an impression of the hub marks. This is where the fasteners will come through from the inside.

With the trim ring still in place, the ring is traced on the template materials. You can trace both the inside and outside of the trim ring, or do as we did, and only trim the inside. If you do this, take care to be sure the top of your template material and the trim ring are in perfect parallel. With the trim ring removed, trace out the locations of the hub marks. These will be used to drill your holes. Once the actual trim ring is traced, the inside perimeter will need to be offset about 3/16 of an inch as will the hub marks.

The template will need to be cut out and we used an exacto knife that can be found in any hardware store.

Step 5. Once the template is finished, it needs to be secured to the outside of the cabin. Take care that it is flat and will not move around as you trace it on the cabin side and also that it is lined up properly. You can take measurements from the surrounding area, or, as we did, use the top inside edge of the template and the top edge of the old cutout for alignment. The area for the drains and the minor adjustments for the corners were marked with a felt tip pen and the template removed. The minor cutting to make the new size fit was made easy with our new Dremel Trio. I have a feeling this is going to be one of my favorite tools. The holes for the fasteners are also drilled using a drill guide supplied by New Found Metals. The drill guide assures that the holes are drilled at the correct angle so that the outer trim ring and the port itself will line up perfectly for the fasteners.

Step 6. Once the opening was cut, we did a dry fit to make sure everything was going as planned. So far so good, and it was time to seal up the core between the outside fiberglass cabin side and the interior wood. This is a messy process so we make sure the inside is covered with duct tape to keep the epoxy off the interior wood and the outside is protected with heavy paper taped in place. The core is coated using West System Six10. A two inch strip of fiberglass tape wetted with West System is carefully laid around the opening to completely seal it and add strength. This is the same process we used in repairing the windows.

The one inch fiberglass strip should be trimmed with a utility knife along the edge of the opening, just before the epoxy kicks off completely. This is much easier than trying to cut and grind after the epoxy has hardened. Once the epoxy has set, it needs a thorough sanding and wiping down with water and a 3M pad. This removes the blush from the epoxy which can prevent anything from sticking to it and get the opening ready to accept the bedding compounds.

Step 7. The holes on the outside will also need to be counter bored about 1/2 inch to accept the trim ring. We also purchased the counter bore from Newfound Metals and it is of good quality. Be careful not to let the counter bore get away from you.

Step 8. The stainless trim ring and the port itself need a good cleaning with Acetone. This removes any dirt and residue left on the ports from the manufacturing process and assures that the bedding material will stick and seal the ports.

Step 9. The fasteners will probably be a little longer than they need to be and will bottom out before the ports are tight in the opening. We took careful measurements of how long they needed to be and cut them shorter with our handy Dremel tool and heavy duty cutting wheels.

Step 10. The bedding process is probably the most important step in the entire installation. Remember that beside them being ugly, they leaked and we did not want to go through this entire process only to have them leak again and start over. We did one final dry fit before applying the bedding compound. For bedding ports, our preference has always been butyl tape. The stuff is tenacious, lasts forever and is really really sticky. It can be found at most any RV supply store or it can be ordered with the ports. Newfound Metals recommends the ports be sealed really well on the inside and outside. We prefer minimal sealing on the inside and serious sealing on the outside. We want to keep the water on the outside of the boat. A single bead of the butyl tape around the inside of the port is all we used. The space under the drain portion of the port needs a few extra layers. This is more to hold the port in place than it is for bedding purposes.

We also put a thin bead of butyl tape around the hub marks on the trim ring to seal around our counter bore holes.

Step 11. The main section of the port needs to be clamped into place. It is very important that the port line up properly with the holes drilled for the fasteners and the outer trim ring. The port and trim ring should be lined up in place, the port clamped and the trim ring removed. Do this before you put the butyl tape on the trim ring. Tighten down on the clamps. The strip of butyl tape that was placed on the post should squeeze into the opening and allow the clamps to be removed for a short period of time to position the trim ring. But there is a little more that needs to be done first. Once the port is positioned where it should be, the space between the port and the opening in the cabin side has to be filled in with butyl tape. We added two complete rings. Running a ring around the entire port by using the paper that the tape comes on and a plastic handle from putty knife, we forced the butyl tape into the opening. Unfortunately, I was too busy with the project to take a photo. At a minimum, two rings should be forced into the opening. We pushed it in as far as we could, being careful to not leave so much along the outer edge of the port that when we installed the trim ring, it would squeeze out all over the port and ring.

Step 12. With the butyl tape added to the hubs wrapped with butyl tape, the rest of the trim ring needs to be well caulked. For this, we used 3M 4000 UV just in case we will ever have to remove the trim ring in the future. I can't caution enough on the butyl tape. Use enough to completely seal everything, but not so much that it will squeeze out from behind. The stuff is really sticky and hard to clean off.

Step 13. Remove the clamps and bolt the mainframe of the port and the trim ring together. We put a dab of 4000 on the beginning of the threads and a dab of Tef-Gel just under the bolt head. This seals the threads in the trim ring and keeps the head of the fastener from seizing when it comes down to tightening. We tighten down each fastener a little at a time, going round and round until the port and trim ring are tight. We try not to over tighten so that all of the bedding will squeeze out. There should be enough bedding to form a gasket.

Step 14. The 3M 4000 should be applied so that it DOES squeeze out from all around the trim ring. For that, we tape around the ring and the mainframe flange to make clean up easier. But the excess caulk needs to be removed right away before it dries. We use a caulking knife to remove most of it and then Acetone and lots of rags for the final clean up. If any of the butyl tape did squeeze out, it can be cleaned up with metal polish or car wax.

Step 15. Give the entire stainless mainframe and trim ring a good cleaning with a quality metal polish. The finished port will look fantastic.

The interior wood had suffered some damage and the teak had been water-stained from the leaks. No matter what we did, it was not going to look nice, and with the new port, we did want it to look good. Since this area is a storage shelf and in a corner, we decided to try and paint just this area and see how it would look. It could not be any worse. We were very pleased in how the paint turned out, and except for some wiring that needs to be covered, we are declaring this project a success. So, one down and four more to go.

The Okeechobee Waterway

2010-09-17T15:05:00.007-05:00

Excerpt from the 2011 Southern Edition Waterway Guide :

The Okeechobee Waterway is considered by many to be the dividing line between Central Florida and South Florida. When traveling from the north, this is where you will begin to see greater changes in the climate and vegetation, and even in the people—more “Northerners,” either seasonal “snowbirds” or full-time transplants, and a decided increase in the Latino culture.

Opened in 1937, the Waterway offers a chance to see rural Florida, with small towns much as they were early in the last century. The scenery varies as the passage progresses from east to west from river to canal, to lake, to canal, and back to river again. On the Okeechobee Waterway, ranches and big commercial farms alternate with moss-hung wilderness, while bustling boomtowns coexist alongside sleepy villages that popped up long before Miami was built. With its backwaters and “bywaters,” its islands and coves, and its flora and fauna, the Caloosahatchee River was once the only way to get from the Gulf of Mexico to Central Florida, via small steamers and freighters. Some still consider the Caloosahatchee (76.6 miles) the most scenic part of the Okeechobee Waterway, thanks to the old river’s off-channel oxbows. Small cruise ships now occasionally make the trip.

For the boater, the Okeechobee Waterway and Lake Okeechobee provide quite a transition from the pace of busy coastal cities to the tranquility of Florida’s heartland. The Waterway is also a tremendously efficient route from the east coast to the west coast of Florida, the only alternative being the long trek down around the Keys and up across Florida Bay, or vice versa. The Okeechobee Waterway is 154 or 165 statute miles (134 or 144 nautical miles), from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico, depending on whether you take Route 1 across Lake Okeechobee (8.6-foot depths in 2010) or the Rim Route (6.0-foot depths also in 2010; use at your own risk because of debris) along the lake’s southern shore. The Waterway can be divided into three distinct sections:

1. From Mile Zero (the intersection of the Okeechobee Waterway and the Atlantic ICW at St. Lucie Inlet) up the South Fork of the St. Lucie River to the St. Lucie Canal to Lake Okeechobee.
2. Lake Okeechobee itself (either the “Open-Water Route” directly across the lake, or the “Rim Route” along the lake’s southern shore).
3. From Clewiston through the Caloosahatchee Canal and down the Caloosahatchee River to the end of the

Okeechobee Waterway in San Carlos Bay, at Mile Zero of the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW) heading north.

On Lake Okeechobee, a skipper has the choice of two routes for crossing. The first, Route 1, is an open-water crossing (39 statute, 34 nautical miles, 8.6-foot controlling depths at publication), and the second, Route 2 which is also referred to as the Rim Route (50 statute, 44 nautical miles, 6.0-foot depths at publication; use at your own risk), follows the shoreline south from Port Mayaca, on the eastern shore, before entering a tree-protected rim canal and running past Clewiston to Moore Haven.

Cruising Characteristics
Chart 11428 covers the area from the intersection with the Atlantic ICW to Fort Myers, and Chart 11427 continues down the Caloosahatchee River to the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW) and the Gulf of Mexico. From that point, cruisers have the option of moving north on the GIWW to the Sun Coast, outside in the Gulf to the Big Bend or the Panhandle, or south to southwest Florida and the Keys.

Caution: Much of Chart 11428 is at a scale of 1:80,000; this is different from the charts adjoining at either end, 11472 and 11427, both at 1:40,000, the usual Waterway scale. Chart 11428 has two insets at its eastern end and one where it reaches Lake Okeechobee, plus an extension at its western end—all of these are at various larger scales.

Navigating Locks
The water level in Lake Okeechobee is higher than anywhere on the Atlantic Ocean or Gulf ICW. Whether you are headed east or west, you ascend through the locks to Lake Okeechobee, and then descend after you leave. The Waterway has five modern, spacious and well-handled locks and more than 20 bridges, ranging from electronic-controlled to hand-operated. Normally, locks operate between 6 a.m. and 9:30 p.m., but check ahead for current lock-through schedules.

Locking through is simple compared to procedures necessary in the northeastern U.S. canal systems. Lock personnel furnish all necessary lines and regular fenders will suffice when locking through. Allow approximately 15 minutes once inside a lock. The Okeechobee Waterway locks are easier to transit when you are the only boat locking through, and if the lock attendant gives you the windward dock line first when winds are strong. Gusty winds can set up a surge in the locks, so use caution. The attendant also might warn you that you could be locking through with a manatee or an alligator. Lockmasters on the Okeechobee are usually helpful and courteous.

Note: The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers requires boat operators to turn off radar units during lockage to avoid exposing lock personnel to possible radiation risks. It is recommended, however, that engines be left running.

When you reach the dolphins and the sign ARRIVAL POINT before each lock, contact the lockmaster on VHF Channel 13, give your vessel’s name and direction, and request lockage. At that time, they will inform you of the current lockage status and estimate your wait time. It could be as long as 45 minutes to an hour in the unusual case where they have just started locking through from your side. The lockmaster will also instruct you as to port- or starboard-to, indicating which side of the lock to steer to and how to arrange your fenders; see the Bridge Tables in the Skipper’s Handbook section for the side normally used. The lockmaster will then indicate for you to enter when the traffic light is green.

If you receive no response on VHF, sound two long and two short blasts. (Not a part of the Waterway, Clewiston Lock is used to leave the Waterway and reach the facilities at Clewiston; it is the only lock without VHF radio.) At each lock, for the smallest of craft, there is a pull-cord hanging down by a sign marking its location. The green light is your signal to enter the lock. The lockmaster will then hand you, or drop to you, a bow line and a stern line, or the lines will be hanging down from the top of the lock’s sidewall and you will have to steer to them and pick them up (in this case, keep a boathook handy).

When your boat enters at the lower level and is to be raised in the lock, take care that the line does not hit you in the face when it is dropped by the lockmaster. Be prepared for moderate turbulence as water rushes in or out of the lock. Two people can safely handle a small or medium-sized boat, but an extra pair of hands is always useful on large boats. Single-handing through the locks is not safe and is strongly discouraged.

Check when you are doing your pre-cruise planning, and recheck again at the first lock, to make sure the entire Waterway is open. Maintenance on the locks is normally done each summer, and through-passage from the East Coast to the Gulf Coast may not be possible for as long as several months. During such times, Lake Okeechobee may be accessible from one side or the other, but not both. During a drought, lockage may be restricted depending on water supply. Call the Corps of Engineers at Clewiston (863-983-8101) for information or go to the Internet at www.saj.usace.army.mil and use the “Coastal Navigation” selection from the menu, followed by the link to “Navigation Projects and Studies.”

Depths and Clearances
The depth of water in Lake Okeechobee can vary widely as a result of rainfall onto the drainage area to the north and the lake itself. As a result of an ongoing drought, the level fell to a record low of 3.36 feet in mid-2007 — the lowest level ever recorded — but lake levels had recovered to 8.6 feet in early 2010, due to hurricanes in 2008 and a tropical storm in 2009. The Corps of Engineers and the South Florida Water Management District manage the level of the lake. There are a variety of ecological, environmental and economic reasons for various levels, and some of them conflict with others.

The depths charted in Lake Okeechobee are based on a datum of 12.56 feet. If skippers know the lake level, they can determine the difference between the datum and the current level and modify the charted depths accordingly. Depths in the sections between dams on either side of the lake vary slightly with lake level changes, but the differences are seldom enough to affect navigation.

The Port Mayaca Railroad Bridge, Mile 38.0, sets the 49-foot controlling vertical clearance of the Waterway. If you have any questions about clearance, call the Corps of Engineers at Clewiston (863-983-8101). Sailboaters can have their masts unstepped at Stuart, or wait and have it done at the Indiantown Marina, which is closer to the Port Mayaca Bridge.

Navigating the Okeechobee Waterway
With the exception of a lake crossing in imperfect weather, passage along the Okeechobee Waterway is easy, piloting is simple and navigational aids are adequate for daytime running. Aids to navigation are numbered in several sequences from east to west all the way across; even-numbered red aids are on the starboard side (as they are southbound along the Atlantic ICW). Conversely, leave red aids to port eastbound on the Waterway, as you would when northbound on the ICW. Reservations are recommended at marinas on the Okeechobee Waterway.

Nighttime navigation is not recommended, because shoals and deadheads (partially submerged objects) are obscured. Fortunately, ample facilities and occasional anchorages make after-dark travel unnecessary. Some of the bridges operate daily from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. and require a minimum of three hours notice to open at other times. Phone numbers are posted on each bridge; calls are best made during normal office hours. You can use adjacent dolphins for tie-ups. Anchoring in approach areas to some of the locks is also possible, and the lockmasters can provide local knowledge concerning depths and conditions. As mentioned before, aids to navigation are the same as the ICW pattern: going west, keep red aids to navigation to starboard, green ones to port; yellow squares and triangles are shown on dayboards and buoys.

Currents are not a problem in the Okeechobee Waterway, except for the turbulence that occurs when locks are opened. Average tides at the mouth of the St. Lucie River are 0.9 feet; 1.2 feet at Fort Myers; and 2.4 feet at Punta Rassa (at the western end of the Okeechobee Waterway) near Mile Zero of the GIWW heading north.

Weather
Central Florida weather is generally benign. In winter, the prevailing wind is north to northeast, as opposed to summer, when wind is normally east to southeast, with very little rain except when cold fronts from the north pass through. Summer days are calm in the mornings, with occasional patchy fog; winds pick up at about 10 a.m. Afternoons often bring showers and thunderstorms, particularly late in the day, so it is a good idea to plan on getting in early. Hurricanes do occur in season, June through November.

Since Lake Okeechobee is the second largest freshwater lake located wholly in the continental United States. (Lake Michigan is the largest), it can get nasty. You should know which forecasts cover the area. The continuous NOAA marine weather comes from West Palm Beach and Fort Myers on VHF Channel WX-3, and from Belle Glade on WX-2.

A New Dinghy And A Big Change

2010-08-28T09:31:00.003-05:00

We posted this on our Beach House blog and we thought we would share it here since our sailing friends might be interested also.

Cruisers know that the dinghy is the same as the family car when we live ashore.It gets you to shore to buy groceries, visit with friends, and reach those beaches and snorkel spots that can't be reached with the mothership. Ask ten cruisers what the best dinghy is and you will get ten different answers. It will turn out to be one of those discussions like anchoring or cleaning the holding tank. The opinions will fly and the discussion will go on for a long time.

Since we began cruising almost 20 years ago, we wrestled with what type of dinghy would be best for us. After a couple of shake down cruises it became obvious. We first tried a very nice fiberglass skiff that was capable of sailing, with a mast and boom, rowed well and looked very elegant. But in a short time we grew to hate it. We could not carry more than two people and it would only hold a small outboard. It was so tippy getting in and out from the boat that we stopped using it. It was always banging against the hull and dinged everything.

We sold that dinghy and bought an inflatable. Our first inflatable had a soft floor with wooden inserts and standard size tubes. It was a big improvement, more stable, carried more weight and let us up the horse power of the outboard. After our first cruise to the Bahamas, we realized that although better, the design made for a wet ride across the harbor in even a small chop. In Georgetown we had to wear foul weather gear to ride across the harbor on bright sunny days.

It was obvious that we needed an inflatable, we just need a better one. Our next purchase was a RIB from Caribe. It proved to be perfect, it was stable, carried even more weight, used a larger outboard that allowed us to get up on plain, reach our destinations much faster, and with the larger tubes and flared bow, it was a much drier ride.

That dinghy lasted us for ten years and we put a lot of miles on it. It was used and abused all over the Caribbean. It was sold along with our sailboat and the new trawler had an inflatable exactly like our first one only not in as good condition. This was not going to do so the hunt began for a new one. We carried the Caribe on davits on the stern of the sailboat the entire time we owned and cruised the boat. But we did not want to carry a dinghy on the back of the trawler this way, we prefer carrying it on its side on the swim platform. This is doable but not ideal with an inflatable. We had seen a pretty nifty fiberglass dinghy in our travels made by Livingston Boats in Tarboro, North Carolina. We had met a few cruisers with these boats and they really liked them. We started doing research on line and and asking questions of owners and the end results seemed to be that this was a good option for us. The twin hulls gave the stability we needed, the boat would move along quite well with a smaller outboard, which means carrying less weight, it is very well built and it looks really nice. On the website it is referred to as the 8 but is actually 7.5 feet.

There is also a mounting option for dinghy mounting brackets made by Weaver Davits that would make mounting on the swim platform easy and secure. It also makes launching and retrieval easy, which is very important to us. It took at the most a couple of hours to install the Weaver Davits and have the boat resting on the swim platform. We just love it when a plan comes together.

12 Small Boat Projects That Made Large Improvements

2010-08-08T16:37:00.002-05:00

Sometimes it is the little things that can make a big difference. Most of the posts here cover our projects and improvements and while many are serious undertakings, some are simple, quick and easy, but once finished, solve a problem or shortcoming we have encountered. With any new boat, there are always those little things that drive you crazy sometimes. Here are a few things we felt needed doing that paid off.

Changing the raw water pump impeller can be challenging at times when tied to the dock, but when under way and in certain conditions can be downright harrowing. We have had impeller failures in some strange and unplanned circumstances. The last thing one wants is to have to be in the engine room after running for hours, deal with the heat while the boat is rolling in a seaway, and have to take any more time that is necessary to change the impeller and get moving again. Been there, done that. I have serviced boats over the years that had the SpeedSeal raw water pump covers and always liked the ease in which the impeller could be changed. So this was a natural solution should we be in that situation again. It makes the change fast and easy with no tools necessary and no worries on replacing gaskets. We really like this option.

You may or may not consider this a small project, but after our first oil change on our Ford Lehman 120, we knew that our old practice of sucking the oil out through the dipstick tube was just not going to work for us. Once again, I relied on past experiences while servicing other boats, and we installed the X-change-R oil change system. It took some work, since first we had to get all of the oil out of the engine using the suction method. Then the drain plug in the bottom of the oil pan needs to be removed. A line is run from where the old plug is in the oil pan to the oil changer pump. Finally, power needs to be run from the breaker panel to the pump. It can take a day or a weekend to complete, but in the end, we found it has paid off big. The oil change now takes minutes, and the mess is minimal. The oil can be extracted from the engine and then the engine filled from the oil containers. No pouring and spilling.

We are not big on air-conditioning when cruising, although with all of the 100 degree days here in the Chesapeake, it has been nice at the dock. While traveling or at anchor, we prefer to have the boat open as much as possible. We have been in places where the mosquitoes were large enough and aggressive enough to carry away a small animal. We have been in places where no matter what we did, the cabin was invaded at night with either mosquitoes or no-see-ums and we had to lather down with repellent. Needless to say, screens are a must, and we have had to get creative at times to have a screen in the entry way so that we could get in and out faster than the bugs. Traveling through parts of the ICW, the dreaded green-headed flies that bite make screens an absolute must. We cover the entries, opening windows, ports and all opening hatches.

The side door on our trawler presented us with a slight problem. It slides aft to open, and there is a space between the door and the side of the cabin of a little more than an inch. Now this does not seem like much, but in fact, an inch can let in all manner of creatures. From creepy spiders, to bees and other flying insects, to small rodents, which we have never had and never want to have. We needed something to fill the space, but also allow the door to slide and not chafe against the side of the cabin and leave marks. The answer came to me standing in the weather stripping aisle in a hardware store. A common door sweep for the bottom of a door to keep out drafts was perfect. It is an aluminum strip with a piece of rubber inserted in it, and if properly placed along the back edge of the door, was just the ticket and it looked like it belonged there.

If you have the screens up, the natural next step is to have fans to circulate all of that air that can now get into the cabin. We have found that the 12 volt Caframo fans give the most bang for the buck, or air if you will. They move the most air for any 12 volt fan we have used, and at around $30.00, are a great deal. We have run them 24/7 when in the Caribbean, and they last for years. They are also very quiet, which is important when you need them at night and also need to sleep. The draw on the electrical system is only about 1/2 amp, and they have a two-speed setting. We prefer the model 757, but there are several others. These can be strategically placed around the boat to give you full circulation in every cabin. They also help circulate either cool or warm air from the heating or air-conditioning system.

On our cruise from the western Caribbean to Texas, we spent a lot of time anchored along the Gulf Coast ICW. We found that the tug and barge Captains traveled day and night, and often they passed us as we were anchored. We always display an anchor light, but often wondered what else we could do to make ourselves better seen. We had read on a few boating forums about boaters that had used the solar powered garden lights for anchor lights. While we do not feel comfortable relying on these as anchor lights, it occurred to us that they might help with getting us seen at night in addition to our anchor light. We placed four of the inexpensive lights we purchased from Home Depot at four corners on the boat, on the rail down low enough that they would be easily seen from the water. They recharge themselves during the day in the sun and will generally last from sunset to sun up. We are not sure how effective they have been, but in our cruise from Houston to the east coast, we were passed by a lot of commercial traffic at night, but none ran over us. We have had several put a spotlight on us, though, as they passed by. We simply attach them to the rail with a hose clamp, and if placed properly, will also give you some light when moving around on deck at night.

And while we are considering lights for anchoring, our anchor light is also another important item we had to replace on this boat. The old Perko anchor light had corroded and pretty much fell apart. One item we had looked into quite a bit was a photocell to turn the anchor light on and off at dusk and dawn. Too often, we came back to the boat after dark when socializing lasted longer than expected and had no anchor light on or, if we knew we would be back late, had to turn the light on in the afternoon and have it use up precious power during the day. Doing some research brought us to the Web site for Bebi Electronics. They make an anchor light called the Owl which fit the bill perfectly. It has a built in photocell that is just what we wanted and as a matter of fact, once we installed it, we turned on the breaker for the light and forgot to use the breaker again to turn it on and off. Two other benefits we found was that when we turned the light on, our battery monitor showed almost no amps being used, and it proved to be considerably brighter than any of the traditional anchor lights we have used in the past. It is made of PVC and encased in epoxy, so there is little to corrode other than the connections we made to the wiring.

Safety when moving around the deck under way has always been important to us. We have had to deal with sails and rigging in gale conditions and anchors during late night storms. A trawler with a flybridge is a new experience for us, and running up and down from the flybridge was a concern. The steps are teak with stainless hand rails and we like our teak finished. If they are wet, they can be slippery, and a fall could be serious. A simple and logical solution is good old-fashioned vinyl or rubber stair treads. But boy are they hard to find anymore. We first tried to apply them with outdoor carpet tape which is sticky on both sides, but as soon as the sun warmed them up, they slid off the step. Our solution was to use aluminum strips like those used at the edge of carpet or vinyl flooring to secure the treads. This worked out better than we expected, as it made the steps even more slip proof. It also does not look too bad.

Another safety issue is moving around the interior of the boat at night. Our new boat has a cabin down forward and a cabin down aft. We wanted a way to light the steps without being too bright or obnoxious. Small LED lights mounted just at the doorways so they they can be turned on before going down the steps were a good addition. These lights are not terribly bright, and they draw very little amps. So if we want just a little light, they do double duty. They also make excellent lights for inside hanging and storage lockers where you might need to find items at night, or even during the day.

Another project that might not be considered small is adding stereo speakers. It all depends on the complexity of running the wires. For us, this was fairly easy, and the Clarion Stereo we installed allowed us some options. It has a six disc CD changer and audio inputs that allow us to run our TV sound through it. With the four speakers mounted in each corner of the main salon and the stereo set to Aux, we have surround sound that sounds really good and we don't have to power a 110 audio system or find a place to mount all of that equipment. We also have a pair of speakers run to the flybridge so we have to be careful to turn them off or all of our neighbors will know what we are watching on the TV.

Previously, we have written about installing the vents in various places throughout the boat. This has proven to be a very good modification. It has really dried out the inner parts of the boat that normally stay damp and can generate mold and mildew if left as is. The odors that these dark and damp places generate are no longer a problem, and the items that are stowed away are less likely to rust, corrode and just get nasty. We are very pleased that we made this decision.

Finally, it is amazing how a small item like door latches can make a big improvement. We learned long ago that the standard latches most builders put on a boat will not keep the contents in the lockers once the boat gets rolling or if you find yourself in some heavy seas. One particular cruise off the coast of South Carolina found the entire contents of most of the cabinets in our main salon on the cabin sole. These cabinets also had finger holes that needed a single finger inserted to open the locker. This begged for a broken finger in a seaway. That is when we discovered that a simple hook type latch takes minutes to install throughout the entire boat and kept all of the doors securely closed no matter what the motion of the boat is.

That is about it for now. We certainly hope we have offered a few ideas that might help on board your boat and make life aboard a little more pleasant. We certainly would like to hear any ideas you might have and I am certain others would also. Just click on the comments following this post and leave or read what others have to add. Happy Boating!

Cooking Aboard – Tips Tricks and Recipes by Susan

2010-07-26T14:55:00.004-05:00

You would think after living aboard for 18 years, I would know all of the tricks to cooking aboard. I only know what worked for us, and maybe some of my ideas and tips will work for you, too.

We started out on a 40 foot sailboat with a large galley and a lot of storage. Whether you are planning for a long trip of many months or a week on the river or bay, you will need to buy provisions for the boat. We have done both kinds of trips.

For long trips, I cram every space available with items of food. After our first trip through the Bahamas, I realized we didn’t eat any differently, really, than we did at home. Those cans of asparagus wound up being taken to a potluck in Exuma Land and Sea Park after being in a locker for 6 months. I would like to tell you that we ate healthy every day – beans, rice, fresh greens – but we didn’t. I have a spouse who eats only potatoes, meats/fish and a few isolated vegetables. We ate healthier than we would have at home without access to processed foods, but still pretty much ate the same. I say all of that to say, don’t stock up on things you think you might eat. It is a waste of money and space. Unless you plan on overhauling your diet – many of us probably should – buy what you know you will eat.

The next consideration is storage of the food. You do not want to bring cardboard on to your boat. It may look innocent enough now, but critters lay their eggs in cardboard and in no time, you will have them on board. You should also bring items such as soda and beer on board separately after you have isolated it from the cardboard case boxes and looked around each six-pack for critters hiding between the cans. It is easier to do that than chasing them around the boat at 3 a.m. (Do I sound like I’m speaking from personal experience? I am!)

A second and more important factor is that you will need to dispose of that cardboard at some point when it may not convenient. Do it at the dock when you can take it to the recycling center. If you need directions off of the box, cut off just that small section, and put the contents and the little piece of cardboard in a sealable plastic bag or plastic jar with a lid. (If using a jar, place a bay leaf in the jar and plastic wrap around the top of the jar to seal it and keep out bugs.)

With regard to cans, mark what they contain with a permanent marker on the top of the can, and then stack them neatly in crates or cupboards. You will be able to see what they are from the top, and, if the label comes off for whatever reason, you won’t have to guess what is inside.

Those green bags for storing veggies and fruit really do work, either in the fridge or somewhere cool on the boat. They increase the life of the food three- or four-fold. Hanging bags for breads, snacks and cookies are also very handy to keep that delicate stuff from getting flattened when your boat is heeling or rolling. When you put meat in the freezer, wrap portions separately in plastic wrap first, then put like meats in a large resealable bag to help keep them from getting freezer burnt. Layer your freezer with what you plan to use first on the top.

Now comes the cooking part. Unless you have a ton of storage, and endless amounts of power, you will want to leave those crock pots, bread makers, blenders, etc., in your storage locker or give them to friends. They take up a bunch of room and use more power than you will likely want to spare. Substitute them with a pressure cooker, some good bread pans and a small hand operated chopper.

One of my favorite cooking tools aboard is the grill mounted to the stern rail. There isn’t one piece of meat that doesn’t taste better cooked on the grill. It is also handy for grilling veggies. On hot days when you don’t want to heat up the boat, put your whole dinner in some lightly greased foil with some liquid, fold it up and grill it on the lowest setting. Usually, I separate the meat from the veggies. Use herbs, butter, cooking wine - whatever will enhance the foods’ flavor.

We have always had a microwave on board, but only use it for heating up leftovers (2-3 minutes tops), baked potatoes, quick steaming veggies and that occasional bag of popcorn. After roasting everyone inside the boat while cooking in the oven, we found that many things can be cooked on top of the stove. My more pressing reason for doing that now, since we live on a 34-foot trawler with much less storage space, is that the oven is used for storing roasting pans, muffin tins, etc. and all of the “stuff” has to go somewhere while I’m cooking in the oven. Many things can be cooked top side. I now make roasts in large pans on top of the stove, putting the burner on the lowest setting possible. Things that need to be baked for 20-30 minutes in the oven can be cooked in a frying pan with a lid for 10-15 minutes on top of the stove. The boats heats up less, you use less fuel/propane and they are done more quickly. Pressure cookers do the same thing a crock pot does much more quickly.

I haven’t tried baking bread on the stove top, so that may be the exception. I know that there are pressure cooker bread recipes, however. On the subject of bread, I acquired a starter years ago and have been baking our bread ever since. This frees you up if you want to be out for long stretches and can’t live without bread. Bread is also the best ice-breaker on the planet. You will make fast friends if you show up at a potluck with fresh baked bread or give a loaf as a thank you.

Jumping back to storage for a minute, you do not need to refrigerate ketchup, mustard, many salad dressings, soy sauce, etc. It takes up too much room in your fridge and really doesn’t need it. Those same sauces are also a nice touch to have to vary the flavor of your meals. There are many marinades on the market that can give you a garlic lime accent, teriyaki and every kind of barbeque sauce imaginable.

Don’t forget treats. Hide something yummy in a cupboard on board to find when the crew needs a morale booster. A bag of snack size candy bars will raise spirits when it has been raining for three days. If the weather is chilly and you purposely want to heat up the boat, stash brownie mix on board so you can bake some while out on the hook. Nothing will cheer up your crew like the smell of brownies baking.

Cooking tips and tricks definitely are needed on a boat. You don’t have the room and power you have in a house, but you can still cook and make enjoyable meals.

Banana Chocolate Chip Muffins

These muffins are to die for. I don’t know that I’ve ever met anyone that didn’t like them.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees, line muffin tin with 12 paper baking cups:
¼ cup melted butter
1 cup sugar, ½ white, ½ brown
Cream butter in sugar in a bowl

Add 1 beaten egg, 2 very ripe bananas and 2 teaspoons of cider vinegar.
Add 1 cup of self-rising flour or 1 cup regular flour and ½ teaspoon of baking soda and 1/8 teaspoon of salt. I also frequently substitute ½ cup of white flour for whole wheat, which gives the muffins a nice texture.
Finally, add 1/2 cup of semi-sweet chocolate chips to the batter.

Pour into mixture into muffin baking cups and bake for 15-20 or until tops begin to brown. Let cool a bit before attempting to pull the paper off of the muffins, if you can stand to wait!The batter is so good, you may not wind up with 12 muffins.

Maryland Crab Soup

1-12 ounce can beef broth
1-8 ounce can tomato sauce
2 cups mixed vegetables and potatoes
8 ounces of crab meat
1 Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 Tablespoons Old Bay or more to taste

Pour a 14 ounce can of beef broth in a large saucepan or use same amount of water and 2 bullion cubes. Add frozen mixed vegetables or chopped fresh. As the veggies start to become tender, add the remaining ingredients. Simmer for another 15 to 20 minutes and serve hot.

This easy recipe can be made with fresh ingredients or with all canned if you haven’t been to a store for awhile. Either way, it will taste great. Serve it with whole grain bread and butter, and it is a complete meal for 2. You will also have a bowl leftover for lunch the next day.

Savory Shrimp

1 pound of peeled and de-veined shrimp
2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoons key lime juice
2 Tablespoons barbecue sauce
¼ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper
½ teaspoon minced garlic
1 bay leaf
1 spring fresh rosemary

Add all ingredients except shrimp to a large saucepan and simmer. When it starts to bubble, add the shrimp and cook until just cooked. These shrimp have a nice kick to them and taste great served over a bed of brown rice with a salad on the side. You should have enough leftover for one portion. I love leftovers. It saves having to cook another entire meal each day. Save the crab soup and shrimp leftovers and flip a coin to see who gets what!

Cooking on a boat does not always have to be like camping out. Enjoy.

Hurricane Preparations For The 2010 Season

2010-06-21T11:09:00.003-05:00

Have you ever had the experience of sitting out a hurricane on your boat? Have you had to leave your boat and wait out a storm, wondering if it would survive? We have done both and neither are experiences we want to go through again. Sitting on board, listening to the wind howling in the rigging and climbing on deck during pelting rain just to adjust dock lines and anchor rode is not our idea of cruising fun, and the anxiety factor is off the charts. Sitting in a hotel room hundreds of miles away, not knowing if the boat made it through or if your next contact is the insurance company. June is just the beginning of the hurricane season, but it is also a good time to get yourself and your boat prepared. With our former boat Sea Trek, we have been through fifteen named storms, twelve of them hurricanes. So we do have some first hand knowledge for preparing and we thought this a good time to share our experiences.

Given a choice, our preferred place to have the boat ride out a storm would be in a well protected, open anchorage, shielded from wind and wave action. In our opinion, the place you would most likely expect to have the boat damaged is in a slip. It is almost impossible to adjust dock lines to compensate for storm surge and not have lines so long that the boat could be slammed against the dock and pilings. During hurricane Georges, in the Florida Keys, we tied the boat up in the middle of the basin of the marina, with an anchor out at the bow and several long lines ashore. After the storm passed, we were the only boat in the marina undamaged to some extent. We rode out hurricane Floyd anchored in the Wye River in the Chesapeake and the wind howled for two days. We were at the head of the river so there was very little wave action and since we are always confident of our ground tackle, we were never concerned about the anchor dragging. We did have two anchors set, and having the proper anchors and rode are very important to your success and the boats safety. One of our biggest concerns is other boats dragging or breaking loose and fouling our anchor. We look for safe harbor in the most remote spot we can find, far away from where the other crowds gather. In Belhaven, NC we rode out hurricane Irene in a large creek with just two other boats while another smaller and narrower creek just north of us had twenty or more boats sheltered there.

If a good safe harbor is not available nearby, our next alternative is to haul out the boat. In some cases your insurance policy may pay part or all of the haul out costs if they offer this option and you have taken advantage of that option. We also look at the location of the marina and the professionalism of the yard before we make the call. And of course if you are in an area prone to hurricanes, you will need to make arrangements well in advance. Some marinas will charge to put you on their haul out list. One of the downside of this is, the marina will begin hauling for a storm well in advance because of all of the work involved and they will also have to prepare their facility. If they notify you a week in advance of the storm that you must get the boat to the yard for haul out, the storm track can change considerably in a weeks time. We have been in these situations and based on our experience decided not to haul that early and made the right call. The storm took another track and missed the area completely. You have to pay for the haul out whether the storm comes or not. This is a tough judgment call and everyone has to do what they feel is right.

Some times you will just need to leave the boat and go. As a matter of fact, in most cases this is what you will need to do. As much time and emotions as we have invested in our boats, the reality is that they are just a thing. And things can be replaced but lives can not. It is foolish to try and ride out a storm on a boat when safer alternatives are available. So you prepare the boat as best you can and you seek shelter ashore. If you have a home or just seek a safe public shelter, there is much preparation that needs to be done in this case also.

You need to have a plan.Where will you go, and will your family need to meet you there? Be sure you have phone number handy for friends, family members, doctors, and any others you feel will be important, and possible contacts you might need for up to a week after the storm. If your phone will allow you to send text messages, they sometimes will get out when a call will not. Be sure you know your evacuation routes if needed and cars are fuel up and stocked for emergencies. Is your emergency kit accessable to you in a hurry? Make sure family members understand what circumstances determine whether you stay for a storm or evacuate. The local authorities might require a mandatory evacuation.
Prepare an emergency kit. You can easily buy everything you need at your local storms, but the shelves might be empty just prior to the storm. So put your kit together NOW.

You may need to survive on your own after an emergency. This means having your own food, water, and other supplies in sufficient quantity to last for at least three days. Local officials and relief workers will be on the scene after a disaster, but they cannot reach everyone immediately. You could get help in hours, or it might take days. In addition, basic services such as electricity, gas, water, sewage treatment, and telephones may be cut off for days, or even a week or longer.

Recommended Items to Include in a Basic Emergency Supply Kit:

Water, one gallon of water per person per day for at least three days, for drinking and sanitation
Food, at least a three-day supply of non-perishable food
Battery-powered or hand crank radio and a NOAA Weather Radio with tone alert and extra batteries for both
Flashlight and extra batteries
First aid kit
Whistle to signal for help
Dust mask, to help filter contaminated air and plastic sheeting and duct tape to shelter-in-place
Moist towelettes, garbage bags and plastic ties for personal sanitation
Wrench or pliers to turn off utilities
Can opener for food (if kit contains canned food)
Local maps
Cell phone with chargers, inverter or solar charger

Additional Items to Consider Adding to an Emergency Supply Kit:

Prescription medications and glasses
Infant formula and diapers
Pet food and extra water for your pet
Important family documents such as copies of insurance policies, identification and bank account records in a waterproof, portable container
Cash or traveler's checks and change
Emergency reference material such as a first aid book or information from www.ready.gov
Sleeping bag or warm blanket for each person. Consider additional bedding if you live in a cold-weather climate.
Complete change of clothing including a long sleeved shirt, long pants and sturdy shoes. Consider additional clothing if you live in a cold-weather climate.
Household chlorine bleach and medicine dropper – When diluted nine parts water to one part bleach, bleach can be used as a disinfectant. Or in an emergency, you can use it to treat water by using 16 drops of regular household liquid bleach per gallon of water. Do not use scented, color safe or bleaches with added cleaners.
Fire Extinguisher
Matches in a waterproof container
Feminine supplies and personal hygiene items
Mess kits, paper cups, plates and plastic utensils, paper towels
Paper and pencil
Books, games, puzzles or other activities for children

Find out how to keep food safe during and after and emergency by visiting: http://www.foodsafety.gov/keep/

Stay informed through as many sources as possible. Have online sources for weather and hurricane tracking and forecasts bookmarked on your computer. Stay tuned to local weather broadcasts and national information like The Weather Channel. Power failures will be common so battery operated devices will help, just be sure you have lots and lots of batteries. Cell phones will work if land lines go down, but you will need to keep the batteries charged. A small portable generator will make a considerable difference in the days to come if there are major power outages for long periods of time. Have enough fuel for the generator to last a week and store it safely. A WORD OF CAUTION, never run one of these generators inside or in any enclosed, confined area. You could survive the storm to loose your life from carbon monoxide poisoning. We have a portable Honda 2000 Generator that has been invaluable during these storm conditions on many occasions.

We have posted on our Sea Trek site, a few occasion where we prepared the boat for less serious storms. These preparations can be used in many cases, but for major storms, additional care will be needed. You can read those posts here;
http://sea-trek.blogspot.com/search/label/04.%20Hurricane%20And%20Storm%20Prep

http://sea-trek.blogspot.com/search/label/0028.%20Dealing%20With%20Hanna It is our hope that some small piece of information here will help in getting you prepared for this coming season and we also hope that all of your preparations will be a total waste of time.

Installing A Marine Electrical Panel In A Day

2010-06-12T18:21:00.002-05:00

Prior to purchasing Beach House, we had a thorough survey done by Bob Dulce from Hilton Head South Carolina. Bob knows the Marine Traders intimately, as he has been involved with them since the first hull was imported into the U.S. He is also an excellent and knowledgeable surveyor that understands what can happen when a survey reaches an insurance company with a lot of "recommendations." They immediately become "requirements" as soon as a clerk at the insurance company sees them. So items that were not major, but needed attention at some point, were made known to us during the survey, but did not find their way on to the final report. One of those items was an electrical panel that a previous owner had installed in the hanging locker for the forward cabin. As was the practice during the late 70s and early 80s, a household electrical panel had been installed to service the added air-conditioner, some 120-volt lights and an added outlet in the engine compartment. The panel was in good shape and wired correctly so there was no urgency to replace it immediately. So it went on our to-do list. In time, it finally rose to the top of the list, and the weather cooperated so that neither the heat or the air-conditioning would be needed for an entire weekend--plenty of time to complete the project. So it began.

The first item of business was to find the appropriate spot to mount the panel. We had considered putting the new one back inside the locker where the old panel had been. It was out of the way and the wiring was already there, a tempting prospect. But it was also a pain having to go in the locker behind all of the hanging clothes, we could not see to monitor the gauges and breakers, and we did not like having clothes hanging right next to an electrical panel. Outside the locker did not leave a lot of options. The panel needed to be accessible, yet not in an area where it could get bumped and the breakers accidentally turned off. At first glance, we ruled out anywhere on the front of the lower helm station. But after some study, we decided that this would actually be a good spot since we had instant access, and by putting it high enough and slightly behind the wheel, we would have to try very, very hard to bump it or come in contact with the panel so as to be a problem.

The next step was to cut the hole to fit the connections and breakers that stick out from the back of the panel. We chose the Blue Seas panel because we knew from past experience it was of good quality. They provide a template with the panel to make cutting the hole easier. An important issue is to be sure there are no wires, plumbing or anything else that will interfere with the mounting on the back side of the bulkhead. We used the template on the inside to determine where the panel would be mounted by tracing it on the inside wall, then drilling small holes in the corners. We could then transfer the template to the front of the bulkhead by using the small holes as a guide. The entire area where the panel was to be mounted is covered with easy release blue tape, and then the template is drawn on the tape with a fine tip marker. I like to drill holes in the corners with either a small hole saw of drill bit large enough to accept the blade for my jigsaw. Once this is finished, the hole is carefully cut for the panel and all of the sawdust vacuumed. In addition to replacing the panel, we were also replacing the shore panel outlet mounted on the outside cabin side. The old outlet was plastic, quite old and beginning to deteriorate. This is actually what started us on this project. The new stainless outlet would match the other Marinco outlet that we had previously installed.

The panel is put in place to be sure it will fit the cut out, and to make sure it is straight and not mounted on an angle. It is also the time to check that all of the wiring that needs to be connected will reach the panel and be clear of obstructions in the back. Any slight trimming of the cut out or a little sanding to make a better fit can be done now.

With the hole cut and the tape removed, the holes are drilled slightly smaller than the screws that will hold the panel in place and the fitting checked one more time. There is usually lots of sawdust and debris on both sides of the bulkhead, so a good vacuuming and wipe down is in order. We usually like to take this time to sand and varnish the area around where we are doing the work to avoid taking everything apart later.

Before doing any work on the boat's electrical system, the power must be turned off at the breakers on the dock and the shore power cords disconnected. The old shore power outlet was removed, and as is our practice, the core material around the cut out is sealed with West System, and then a thickened epoxy is used to fill in uneven spots and holes. The epoxy is sanded smooth before the outlet is installed. This insures that any leaks will not work their way into the core and cause rot and other problems. Even the screw holes get an injection of epoxy.

The new outlet is installed, and even with the gasket provided from the manufacturer, we use additional sealant to prevent water intrusion. Everyone has their favorite brand, but we like to use SikaFlex for most of these projects. Prior to re-installing the outlet, it is wired with long enough wire to reach the new panel. This panel would feed the air-conditioner, hot water heater, a few outlets and 110-volt lights. It is a fairly heavy load, so care needs to be taken in using the proper wire size. I used a #8 wire on both of our outlets to connect to the panels, even though the run from the outlet to the panel is only a couple of feet. The green earth grounds from both outlets go into our galvanic isolator and then to the panels. The hot and neutrals go directly to the main circuit breaker for each panel.

The wiring can be done with the panel in place from the back, or in some cases I prefer to connect up everything before the panel is put in place if there are not too many connections. I would add a word of caution here. Unless you have a complete understanding of the proper methods for wiring a boat, I highly recommend you hire a professional. I have been doing this for many years as a profession, so it is fairly simple for me. The wrong connections or improper installation can have catastrophic consequences. Once all of the connections are made and the panel secured in place, all of the wiring needs to be secured. We tend to use lots of wire ties and wire straps to keep everything neat, organized and from moving around, which can cause connections to come loose and wire to chafe through.

This time, because of the time it would have taken to make some repairs to the wood and varnish the surrounding areas, we did not refinish. That will get done later. With everything in place and all connections tested to be sure they were secure and tight, it was time to connect the shore power. Our practice is to make sure everything on both panels is turned off. The dockside breaker is also turned off, and the shore power cords are plugged in at the dock and the boat. The next step is to turn on the breaker on the dock, and check the voltage meters on the panel for proper voltage. The reverse polarity lights should not be on on either. If they are, something is wrong, and the power should be turned off immediately. If all goes well and looks good, the circuit breakers on the panels should be turned on one at a time, waiting a brief moment between turning each on. Watch the voltage meter for sudden voltage drops, since this could mean a short or other problem. Watch the reverse polarity light as each breaker is turned on. If everything was done correctly, the appliances, etc. can now be switched on. This is a small, relatively simple panel, but if a larger panel with more complicated wiring and DC breakers are included, a much more comprehensive approach is needed. But if a small auxiliary panel is needed, this will get you back in business without a great deal of expense. If you are not sure of your abilities, get the advise of a professional.

US Naval Academy Commencement Week

2010-05-27T21:24:00.005-05:00

Commencement Week for the US Naval Academy in Annapolis Maryland is a major event for both the Graduates and Midshipman at the Academy, and also for the city of Annapolis. Besides the influx of families and friends of the staff, instructors and the Midshipman, it attracts tourists from all over the United States and the rest of the world. Probably the biggest draw and most anticipated event is the flight demonstration performed by the Navy's Blue Angels precision flying squadron.

Some History

At the end of World War II, the Chief of Naval Operations, Chester W. Nimitz, ordered the formation of a flight demonstration team to keep the public interested in Naval Aviation. The Blue Angels performed their first flight demonstration less than a year later in June 1946 at their home base, Naval Air Station (NAS) Jacksonville, Florida. LCDR Roy "Butch" Voris led the team, flying the Grumman F6F Hellcat.

Two months later, on August 25, 1946, the Blue Angels transitioned to the Grumman F8F Bearcat. The 1947 team, led by LCDR Robert Clarke, introduced the now-famous "Diamond Formation."

By the end of the 1940s, the Blue Angels were flying their first jet aircraft, the Grumman F9F-2 Panther. In response to the demands placed on Naval Aviation in the Korean Conflict, the team reported to the aircraft carrier USS Princeton as the nucleus of Fighter Squadron 191 (VF-191), "Satan’s Kittens," in 1950.

The team reorganized the next year and reported to NAS Corpus Christi, Texas, where they began flying the newer and faster version of the Panther, the F9F-5. The Blue Angels remained in Corpus

Christi until the winter of 1954 when they relocated to their present home base at NAS Pensacola, Florida. Here they progressed to the swept wing Grumman F9F-8 Cougar. The ensuing 20 years saw the Blue Angels transition to two more aircraft, the Grumman F11F-1 Tiger (1957) and the McDonnell Douglas F-4J Phantom II (1969).

In December 1974, the Navy Flight Demonstration Team began flying the McDonnell Douglas A-4F Skyhawk II and was reorganized into the Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron. This reorganization

permitted the establishment of the first commanding officer (CDR Tony Less) instead of a flight leader, added support officers and further redefined the squadron’s mission, to enhance the

recruiting effort.

On November 8, 1986, the Blue Angels completed their 40th anniversary year when they unveiled their present aircraft, the McDonnell Douglas F/A-18 Hornet, the first dual-role fighter/attack

aircraft, which is still serving on the nation’s front lines of defense. In 1992, more than one million people viewed Blue Angels’ performances during a 30-day European deployment to Sweden, Finland, Russia, Romania, Bulgaria, Italy, the United Kingdom and Spain. This was the first European deployment in 19 years.

The 2009 show season brought out more than 8 million spectators. Since 1946, the Blue Angels have performed for more than 463 million fans.

Each year, LetsGoCruising Charters, our neighbor at Yacht Haven Marina, and our publisher, Jack Dozier, work out an agreement to charter a boat for the day and get the entire Waterway Guide staff and their families and friends out on the water to view the Blue Angels performance. Bringing a boat into Annapolis Harbor for this event is not for the faint of heart or for inexperienced boaters. Even with the event held on a weekday instead of a weekend, the harbor is jam packed, and we often joked that one could almost walk from boat to boat and get across the harbor. This year was no exception, and the crowds were almost as spectacular as the air show. If maneuvering in very close quarters and anchoring one boat right next to the other makes you nervous, than perhaps seeing the show from shore would be your best option.

We were given a brand new sailing catamaran that had just joined the fleet and we would be the first users. The boat had lots and lots of space for the some 14 of us and all of our food, snacks and drinks. We left the dock at noon after loading the provisions and crew on board, and maneuvered the 22-foot-wide cat out of the inside corner slip, out through the close pilings of the docks to the channel and through Annapolis Harbor. Many boats had come in the day before and filled the first-come, first-served moorings in the Harbor. Quite a few more had found their favorite anchorage spots all over the Harbor. The US Coast Guard, Coast Guard Auxiliary, Maryland DNR and local law enforcement were out in force to control the crowds and maintain the established security zones. A channel through the Harbor was kept open, as well as the area immediately in front of the Naval Academy grounds.

We meandered through the crowds, weaving in and out of the anchored boats and vessels still looking for a good spot. Just getting the big cat around some of these spots without fouling someone's anchor rode was a fun exercise, but after a short time, we found a hole and dropped our hook. You really need to have a relaxed attitude for events like this, but unfortunately the folks in the boat next to us were just a bit uptight. They were not comfortable with this huge catamaran swinging close to them, and although they did not come out and say anything to us, the remarks could be easily heard on board our boat. So being the polite, considerate boaters that we are, we hauled up the anchor and moved over a bit, even though there was never any danger. Soon after we settled into our new spot, a 45-foot power boat dropped the hook right next to us, closer than we had been to the previous boat. The skipper politely asked if we were okay with where he anchored, and we simply joked that time would tell, and we could both keep an eye on each other. We even suggested that if it became a problem, we could raft up and the other skipper agreed. We did comment that before we would consider that, we would have to know what goodies they had brought with them.

It turned out to be a great time enjoyed by everyone, and our two boats were fine next to each other. (We did put the fenders over the side just in case.) The flight demonstration was spectacular, and no matter how many times we have seen the Blue Angels perform, each time is as exciting as the first. It is truly awesome how these skilled pilots can handle these incredible flying machines at speeds and maneuvers that would probably render most of us unconscious. The event is broadcast and narrated over the radio on AM WNAV Radio, and it was obvious that the entire Harbor was tuned in. It added a nice touch to the event, as details and information on the planes and pilots were presented as they flew over. Everyone had a great time, and it seemed it was over all too soon. We waited for a while to let the crowd thin out, then pulled up the anchor and headed back to the dock. We followed in a large Coast Guard buoy tender and slowly threaded our way through the still large armada of boats, which included Coast Guard and Navy vessels. By around 4:30 p.m., we had the boat back in the slip, and were packing up and unloading what we had not consumed during the afternoon. It was agreed that the day had been a great success, and we needed to find an excuse to do this again soon, especially since the boss was paying for it.