VW Passat B5 Guides

Passat B5 Air Box Drill Mod

2010-12-14T13:56:00.006+00:00

Drilling your airbox is the easiest and cheapest modification you can make. I did mine while changing the air filter, its a good alternative to replacing the air filter with an induction kit which will be exposed to the engine heat and often not do any better than the OEM air filter.

Tools required:

Drill
25mm drill head piece
Socket wrench
8mm socket head

Firstly remove the air flow plastic pipe that sits over the airbox by the passenger headlight. It will simply pull off from one end. Unclip the airbox housing cover, there are four clips, one by each corner. Lift the cover up and out of the way. You do not need to fully remove the top cover as it may still have the OEM locking clips holding the pipework together which will need to be replaced by jubilee clips if you do take them off. Remove any wiring or pipework that may sit in the way by lifting up and pushing to one side. You wont need to actually take off any parts but may need to negotiate them to avoid obstruction.

Lift out the old air filter which if it looks anything like mine did then can go straight to the bin. Next you will see a bolt to the inner wing from the airbox housing. Remove the bolt and lift out the bottom of the airbox which sits on two rubber bungs.

Clean up the bottom of the airbox and remove any debris and loose dirt. Its not adviseable to wash the box unless you have the time to leave it out to fully dry, but to be honest a good brushing and wipe with a clean cloth will achieve the same results. Now look at the sides of the airbox and select suitable positions for your extra holes. Try not to position your holes over the criss cross of the plastic as its the structure to hold it in its shape. I found several suitable positions which lined up with each other. These holes will not be visible once you have refitted the box but its a good idea to drill where it will gain the most natural air, near the front is best so the holes sit behind the passenger headlight. I used a standard 25mm drill tip which can be purchased from any hardware store. You can drill individual smaller holes if you only have small drill tips, and in this case it would be best to bunch the holes together and form a grid.

Once you are satisfied with your drilled holes use a stanley knife or curved file to remove any plastic bits still attached to the edges of the holes you have made. Refit the airbox housing and refit the 8mm bolt. Carefully fit the airfilter and refit the top of the airbox and clip down the four holding clips. Done.

Now take your car for a drive around the block. Depending on how many holes you made and how much surrounding noise you have you should hear a slight sucking sound from the air being drawn into the filter. This modification will not affect the fuel economy or give any negative effect to the engine, but also it wont give you turbo speeds and massive power hikes. Its a small mod that may free the air flow into the engine slightly and give a slightly smoother acceleration but for the time it takes and the cost its well worth doing especially if changing the airfilter anyway.

Check out this great business directory -> -> -> www.freebd.co.uk

Passat B5 Door Card Removal

2010-11-23T18:20:00.004+00:00

As usual VW don't do things by halves and the door cards are no exception. The door card is straight forward and I will show the removal with photos to guide. The inner skin however is not the usual plastic sheet held in place with a bit of sticky, these have a metal plate held in place by 10mm bolts instead. I will cover the plate in a seperate blog. View my about.me page here!

Tools required:

I have used a rear door card to remove as an example although the proceedure for the drivers and front passenger are almost the same. There is no need to worry about switches or speakers as the door card comes away with all the covers intact.

Firstly you will need to prise out the plastic cover over the inner door handle which conceals the two main screws that need to be removed. If you look to the inner side of the door handle right at the point where the plastic and the door card trim meet you may just about see the leverage point (see the second picture below). Place a small flat blade screw driver into the join and prise the plastic cover out from one corner. You may need a second screw driver to prise the plastic while the first holds the gap.

Now remove the torx bolt at the bottom of the door card located in the centre and is held in place with a T15 torx bolt.

Now you can unclip the door card using your fingers starting from the bottom. If you are unable to get the card to come away then a flat blade screwdriver strategically positioned will do the job. Be careful not to damage the door card or metal work if you use a screwdriver. As you pull the door card you will hear the clips pop as they break free, you will not cause any damage so don't worry here. From the bottom pull the door card out slowly and carefully, you may not break the clips but you can break the door card if you are too rough. Once you can feel the clips have free'd you will need to lift the door card upwards to free it from the door lock nib and the window seal that the card sits over. Now hold the card and keep it close to the framework as you still have all the internal electric connections attached.

Unplug the puddle light connector and window switch. The final part to remove is the inner door handle wire. To do this I found it easiest to look into the door card through the window from the outside so you can clearly see the wire. It only needs to be pulled back slightly and it will come away from the plastic guide, then you can lift out the hook that connects to the back of the inner door handle. Now it will be free the door card can be put to one side.

If removing a front door card there is no need to pull away the wing mirrors internal cover as it does not get in the way and the proceedure remains the same and even the plastic holding clips are the same. When refitting the door card the process is the reverse of the above guide. When the door card is in place but not fitted take a look along the sides of the door card to make sure the clips line up with the locking points on the door frame as this is where you can end up breaking the clips off if not careful. Use the palm of your hand or back of your fist to press down where each clip sits so you can hear it pop back into place.

Here is a picture of the rear door minus the door card but with the metal plate in place. As you can see all the components sit on the plate and not the back of the door card trim which makes things a little easier when taking the card off. However the metal plate cover holds in place the window mechanism and electric motor so I will remove it and document it at a later date.

If you find my information useful please feel free to make any comments. Thanks.

ABOUT ME

Passat B5 Exhaust System

2010-11-11T15:38:00.005+00:00

The Passat B5 exhaust system is made up of three main parts so unless the whole system needs changing it shouldn't be a big expense when a section starts to blow and needs replacing. Have a look at the information below and the exhaust diagram. I have included several links for information purposes but the first place you should go is to a local exhaust fitter for a quote.

Starting from the engine end check the exhaust manifold and cylinder head for any leaks of exhaust gas. The gaskets between the parts can and will wear over time from the constant expansion and contraction of the heat from the system.

With the engine running listen for any hissing or popping sounds as you can often identify the location of the leak this way. Look for any discolouration or burns from the heat near the exhaust ports on the cylinder head.

Inspect the area that connects the head pipe and exhaust manifold as the movement from the engine caused by drive torque can lead to movement at the joint where these meet. Look out for any indicators of discolouration from any escaped exhaust gases.

Look along the exhaust pipe system from under the car as you may be able to identify any damage or corrosion. Place the palm of your hand over the tailpipe with the engine running and listen for any changes in the engine sound. The suffocation should force the engine to drop in revs and change the sound, if there is no difference with your palm covering the exit pipe then there is clearly a hole or break somewhere in the exhaust.

If you still cannot find the cause of the fault then speak to a mechanic or local exhaust fitter and ask them to read your engine intake manifold vacuum as low readings will indicate a blockage. But don't get caught out with a big repair bill as the components of the exhaust system are not very expensive. Check the system reference below.

System reference 930691

321338..........CAT. EuroCar + FR Pipe.....£119.47 + vat

380213..........CAT. MetalCat + FR Pipe....£63.83 + vat

401659..........CAT. Fix Kit..........................£2.26 + vat

SYA10..........Clamps.................................£0.91 + vat

SYA23..........Clamps.................................£0.74 + vat

VAG4............Gaskets................................£1.48 + vat

VAR34..........Rubber Mounting..................£1.48 + vat

VAR36..........Rubber Mounting..................£2.09 + vat

VW465C.......Box + Tail Pipe....................£54.84 + vat

VW466B.......Box + Centre Pipe...............£120.06 + vat

www.cats-direct-shop.co.uk

www.onlineautomotive.co.uk

www.andysautosport.com

Have a look at my hubpage for my experience with my Passat exhaust problem -

Exhaust-Repair-vs-Replacement

Submit

Resor K�penhamn

Passat B5 Gear Knob Removal

2010-11-10T17:21:00.001+00:00

All manufacturers have different methods for attaching a gear knob and gear gaiter. The VW variant is very simple and requires no tools to remove. As is not dependant on lifting the gear knob to engage reverse gear any type of upgrade or replacement can be used. Most aftermarket heads will fit on in minutes with no modification necessary.

Start by prising the back of the gear gaiter which should just clip off, then do the same for the front and the gaiter should come free completely. Lift the gaiter so it sits by the neck of the gear knob and simply unscrew it by the head anticlockwise. Do not pull upwards as you may detatch the gear lever linkage from underneath. If you need to seperate the gaiter leather from the gear knob itself now is the time as it is held in place with a circular plastic barrel and can just pull off.

To refit simply turn the gear gaiter fully inside out and holding by the gearknob place over the gear lever screw thread and screw on clockwise until the gear knob is tightly fitted and the correct way around. Don't push down on the outer gear gaiter as you want to leave the leather sitting up slightly which makes it look fresh and nice, if you push down on the gaiter leather you can sink it completely and it will look worn and tired by comparison.

Feedback and comments welcome.
If you found this guide useful please click on my sponsored links.

Passat B5 Fusebox Location

2010-11-10T16:24:00.001+00:00

Blowing a fuse is not an expensive repair but if you don't know how to access your fusebox you can end up spending unnecessary money at a garage to do something that would take seconds to do yourself. The Passat uses standard sized fuses and are clearly labelled on the accompanying fusecard if you have one, if not don't worry as I have pictures below.

If you blow a fuse but don't have a owners manual you may be left scratching your head looking for the fuse box as VW have integrated it and hidden it very well. Open the drivers door and at the side of the dash you will notice a plastic cover. Using either a flat blade screw driver or if you are careful your fingers prise the curved part of the cover and pull forwards. As well as pictures of the fuse box I have also added some of the fuse location card which obviously won't be present in all cars. Have a look at the pictures below as they do all the talking.

The fusecard lists the function and position for each fuse and contains information on both sides. It is located on the inside of the fusebox cover. Here is the card for your reference.

Feedback and comments welcome.
If you found this guide useful please click on my sponsored links.

Passat B5 Modifications

2010-11-07T22:43:00.011+00:00

Here is my list of recommended modifications and upgrades for the Volkswagen Passat B5 including web links and contacts. As an enthusiast and owner this is like a wish list and many of the suggestions on this page have been done myself already or are in the pipe line of changes I intend to make. If anyone has any new ideas or suggestions please feel welcome to post a comment and I will add it in.

Exterior Mods

Numberplates

I have always used 'the plate man' for my first Euro styling mod when doing up a VW or BMW and find this supplier very good. They offer 100% authentic metal pressed Euro and German number plates from Celle Germany (pressed in the same factories that supply the European Motor Industry). I have never personally had a problem with these plates although technically they are illegal so may cause a problem with a picky policeman or MOT tester, but if you have any reservations then try Dubmeister who offer guaranteed UK legal plates complete with the all important BSAU145D stamp.

www.theplateman.com

www.dubmeister.co.uk

Wheels

Alloy wheels always come down to personal preference but I think that keeping things OE are a always a good way to go, but if you prefer something different why not go the euro way with wider deep dish rims and a nice drop on the suspension to compliment the look. Personally I think that lowering the suspension should be the next consideration after alloy wheels as often the standard ride hight can make your nice new wheels look incomplete. My recommendations for alloy wheels for the B5 Passat are the Schmidt TH or BBS RS or for a nice classy look go with a set of Maybach rims.

www.rimstyle.com

www.german-wheels.com

www.wheel-whores.com

Suspension

When it comes to suspension you have two main choices, springs alone or full coilover setup. This decision is usually made by your wallet as a set of lowering springs around 40mm will cost about £110 whereas a full coilover set starts from around £225. However unless you are fitting yourself you will also have to take into account the fitting costs which is usually around £100-£150 to fit springs and around £100 for a full coilover set. The springs are more expensive to have fitted as the existing suspension struts have to be dismantled for the new springs to go on, and it can be a dangerous undertaking as compressed springs are not fun to work with. Personally I feel that as long as your existing dampers are in good health then only a set of springs need be added. A quick way to test your suspension damper is to push down on one corner of your car and see how it bounces. It should only bounce back once and then level, if it feels very easy to push down on or bounces several times then you might as well push the boat out and buy coilovers.

www.spax.co.uk

www.v-maxx.co.uk

Body upgrades

VW really got the look of the Passat right when they built it but there are a few changes that are worth considering if the budget allows. My favorite body mod for these cars is R32 style bumpers. The front bumper has a much more agressive motorsport look about it and does make a big difference. If the budget is tight then you can totally transform the appearance of your car by painting all the black plastic parts around the bumpers and skirts black again which not only makes it look fresh but also gives a subtle modified look. The other main area for change is the badgeless front grille, again its down to taste but I don't really like the mesh grille as you can see straight through it and from afar looks like the grille is missing.

www.ubtuning.com

www.bumper-body-kit.co.uk

www.carstyleplus.co.uk

Lights

Lighting upgrades can be an expense but will totally transform the front end of the Passat. Halo rings are a bit last year but still look nice if they are CCFL quality rather than just a set of cheap LED's which are never bright enough, but again saying that some of the newer style LED light units look amazing. I think the best look is the black chrome, a look you can achieve yourself at home. I will be posting a guide for this modification soon so keep checking this page.

www.nicedeals.co.uk

Interior Mods

Seats

Being a four door saloon the options for aftermarket seats is quite varied as you don't need to worry about the seats having to tilt forward as you would with a two door car, this also makes the fixed seats a little cheaper. Thankfully my interior is the charcoal velour which looks nice and is very hard wearing, however if I was unfortunate enough to have bought a Passat with the light grey interior things would be different. Seats are readily available and can be bought with or without the mounting frame which gives even more availability.

www.demontweeks.co.uk

www.carnoisseur.com

Gear knobs & gaiters

Changing the gear knob and gaiter is a five minute job and refreshes the interior to no end. The gaiter is usually the first thing to wear from the constant use and a scruffy one will make the car look scruffy. There are hundreds of aftermarket ones available with the cheapest on places like eBay. The gear knob is attached to the gaiter but is removeable and simply screws into place so any knob should go. My preference is always either Momo or Isotta when it comes to gear knobs and steering wheels and there is lots of choice, but in this case I opted for a knob and gaiter from a newer model which avoided the situation of having to modify unnecessarily. Have a look at my guide on how to remove the gear knob and gear gaiter -> -> click here.

www.motorspeed.co.uk

www.edgeperformance.co.uk

www.momo-uk.co.uk

www.isotta.com

Audio

To me the most important feature is the audio. A good quality headunit will radically improve the sound quality of the existing factory fitted speakers which is often overlooked by the boy racer who upgrades the speakers first. I have an Alpine headunit in my Passat but there are so many brands to chose from. The only real consideration you need make is to try and buy a headunit with the best matched illumination to your dash guages. A few manufacturers specialised in colour matching the bluey purple of the Passat but I never saw any top end varieties. My second consideration when buying a headunit is that I prefer a dot matrix display over the old calculator looking digits. Dot matrix will allow any combination of pixels so can easily produce images as well as defined text and numbers. Finally make sure you buy a stereo with MP3 playback and with an AUX input as well as phono connectors for an amp should you want one at a later stage.

www.alpine-electronics.co.uk

www.pioneer.co.uk

www.jvcmobile.co.uk

www.caraudiosecurity.com

www.theloudest.com

Engine Mods

Exhausts

www.powerflowexhausts.co.uk
VW Passat B5 Exhaust System

Air induction kits

www.knfilters.com

Chips & remaps

www.responsechips.com

www.dcptuning.com

Check out this great business directory and shopping website -> -> -> goomad.co.uk

Passat B5 Blog, Forum & Web Links

2010-11-06T13:32:00.041+00:00

This is a compliled list of my favorite forums, blog links and useful web sites for all things Passat. If you have a VW blog page please post a comment with your URL and I will be happy to add it to the list. Im always on the look out for new sites so if you have a favorite not listed here let me know. I will keep adding sites and links as I find them.

Website Links

www.passattuning.co.uk
www.volkswagenhouse.com
www.volkswagen.co.uk
www.gtiinternational.co.uk
www.vwvortex.com
www.volkswagenracing.co.uk
www.vagowners.com
www.freebd.co.uk
www.squidoo.com

Forum Links

Passat World Forum
VW Audi Forum
UK Passats
Volkswagen Forum
Club GTi Volkswagen Chat

Favorite Blog Links

VW-Passat-B5-Self-Study-Guide-SP191
dorbritzdesigns.blogspot.com
boostedorbust.blogspot.com
madaboutgoo.blogspot.com

Feedback and comments welcome.
If you found this guide useful please click on my sponsored links.

Passat B5 Specifications

2010-11-05T17:34:00.010+00:00

The Passat introduced a new design language, first seen on the Concept 1 concept car, for the latest generation of Volkswagens such as the Mk4 Golf, Bora and Polo Mk4. The smooth lines, heavily raked windscreens, and smooth underpinnings helped give the B5 Passat an low coefficient of drag, rated at 0.27 (saloon model).

Specifications

Manufacturer	Volkswagen Passenger Cars
Production	1996–2000
Assembly	Emden & Mosel/Zwickau, Germany
Class	Large family car / Mid-size car
Body style(s)	4-door saloon/sedan 5-door estate/wagon
Layout	Front engine, front-wheel drive or four-wheel drive
Platform	Volkswagen Group B5
Engine(s)	Petrol engines: 1.6 L I4 ADP/AHL/ARM 1.8 L I4 ADR/APT 20v 1.8 L I4 AEB/APU/ANB 20v Turbo 2.0 L I4 AUZ 2.3 L VR5 AGZ 2.8 L V6 ACK/APR 30v	Diesel engines: 1.9 L I4 AHU/AHH TDI 1.9 L I4 AVB TDI 1.9 L I4 AFN/AVG TDI 1.9 L I4 AJM/ATJ TDI 2.5 L V6 AFB TDI
Transmission(s)	5-speed manual 5-speed 5HP19 automatic 6-speed manual
Wheelbase	106.4 in (2703mm)
Length	184.1 in (4676mm)(saloon) 183.8 in (4669mm)(estate)
Width	68.5 in (1740mm)
Height	57.4 in (1458mm)(saloon) 59 in (1499mm)(estate)
Kerb weight	1,406 kg (3,100 lb)
Related	Audi A4

Performance Information

1.6 8v Engine ADP/ AHL/ ARM/ ANA
0 - 100km/h - 12.5s
top speed - 192km/h 119mph
power - 100 PS (74 kW; 99 hp) @5300 rpm
torque - 140 N·m (100 lb·ft) @3800 rpm

1.8 20v Engine ADR/ APT/ AVV/ ARG
0 - 100 km/h - 11.1s
top speed - 206 km/h 128 mph
power - 125 PS (92 kW; 123 hp) @5800 rpm
torque - 168 N·m (124 lb·ft) @3500 rpm

1.8 20v Turbo Engine AEB/ APU/ ANB/ ATW/ AUG
0 - 100 km/h - 8.9s
top speed - 223 km/h 139 mph
power - 150 PS (110 kW; 150 hp) @5700 rpm
torque - 210 N·m (150 lb·ft) @1750–4600 rpm

2.0 8v Engine AUZ/ ASU/ AVA
0 - 100 km/h -11.1s
top speed - 203 km/h 126 mph
power - 120 PS (88 kW; 120 hp) @5600 rpm
torque - 175 N·m (129 lb·ft) @2600 rpm

2.3 10v v5 Engine AGZ
0 - 100 km/h - 8.9s
top speed - 223 km/h 139 mph
power - 150 PS (110 kW; 150 hp) @6000 rpm
torque - 205 N·m (151 lb·ft) @3200 rpm

2.8 30v v6 Engine ACK/ APR
0 - 100 km/h - 7.7s
top speed - 238 km/h 148 mph
power - 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp) @6000 rpm
torque - 280 N·m (210 lb·ft) @3200 rpm

Wheel Fitment

Wheel PCD 5x112
bore 57.1
www.alloyguide.com

Awards

1999 Used Car Buyer Greatest Used Buy Awards — Most Sensible Car Award Overall & Best Family Car
1999 Auto Express New Car Honours — Best Family Car
1998 What Car? Car of Cars — Best Medium Car
1998 Which? Magazine Best Buy — Large family car market winner

view the update of this page

www.freebd.co.uk

Passat B5 Engine Service

2010-11-04T17:21:00.018+00:00

Getting your car serviced even at a back street garage costs a fortune these days, yet its such a simple proceedure and not half as expensive as you would think. No major special tools required and the servicing parts themselves are cheap when sourced correctly. If you haven't tried it yet have a go and be your own service technician and give yourself a pay rise.

Tools required:

AIR FILTER REPLACEMENT

I think its always best to work from the cleanest job through to the dirtiest last, so to begin with the first and easiest thing to do is the air filter, located on the left side of the engine bay. Simply unclip the surrounding metal clips that hold the air filter cover in place and sealed. Lift the cover up slightly to allow the old air filter to be removed. If you struggle to get access you can remove the air pipe that the filter cover is attached to and replace with a jubilee clip afterwards. I always take this opportunity to vac out the airbox to remove any debris that has built up. Simply slot the new air filter in place of the old one ensuring the fins are face down and the rubber seal meets up with the surround of the airbox. Reattach and reclip the cover in place.

SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT

Now remove the main engine cover which has screws to hold it in place. A good thick flat head screw driver is best so as not to damage the plastic screws. You will see two of the spark plug HT leads and a large coil pack which covers the other two. Working from the closest plug remove the HT lead holding the rubber cover securely it will just pop off. Now using a 10mm spark plug wrench or socket set which should have the right parts turn anticlockwise until its completely free. Don't worry if the plug feels tight when trying to undo as the heat from the engine can cause them to lock up. Fit the new plug and if doing an oil change take a small drop of oil and rub onto the new plug thread. Carefully tighten by hand ensuring the plug has correctly lined up as you don't want to end up threading the hole as this will be an expensive repair. Finally tighten with the wrench until it feels tight, you won't need to burst a blood vessel here so don't over tighten. Replace the HT lead pushing down on the head to make full contact. Repeat the process for the other visible plug. Now using a torx head remove the bolts holding the coil pack in place. Lift off and you will see the other two spark plugs which can be replaced with the above method.

OIL & FILTER CHANGE

Now for the dirty part of the service and a good time to put on some latex gloves. The best way to tackle this job is to jack the car on the corner where the sump plug sits under the engine lump so not only can you get clear access but also the oil will drain to the corner and get more of any sediment build up. Now open the oil cap on top of the engine. I always slacken the sump plug first just incase there is a problem and it wont come off after Ive started. The sump plug can be removed with a 17mm socket head. Place an oil basin under the sump plug and oil filter to catch all the dirty old oil. Now fully undo the sump plug and place it to one side as it should be reusable. Undo the oil filter using the oil filter wrench but if it refuses to budge you can stick a flat blade screw driver into it which usually gets it loose. Remove the filter by hand once loose enough. After all the oil has drained out and this can take some time, refit the sump plug and tighten. Smear a little oil on the new oil filters rubber surround and threaded hole to allow a good fit and retighten by hand in place of the old one. Once hand tight get a cloth and wrap it round the filter to give it a little tighten further. Its always recommended to check the oil filter a day or so after fitting to make sure you can't hand tighten it any more as you don't want it to come loose while driving. Now slowly top up the engine oil, any spillages are best cleaned up immediately with an old cloth otherwise you will have the smell of it burning off the engine block for a few days. I usually fill half the oil first and then check the dip stick adding small amounts with each check. Always reseat the dip stick fully before looking at the level. Do not over fill and when the stick reads just over half way stop. Refit the engine oil cap and give the engine a run then recheck the oil level on the dip stick and top up as required, three quarters is always more than enough. Also make sure the dip stick is tightly seated in place as any air getting in can affect how the engine runs.

To my knowledge the two HT leads and the coil pack only need to be changed if found faulty and should last many years on these cars. If you think there is a problem consult your dealer or a specialist. I will add photos shortly.

SERVICE PARTS LIST

1.6 Litre Engine:
Spark Plugs Set Ngk - x4 BKUR6ET-10
NEW O.E Quality Coopers Panel Air Filter
K&N Air Filter 33-2125
NEW O.E Quality Coopers Spin-On Oil Filter
CASTROL EDGE 5W-40 Synthetic Engine Oil 4 Litre

1.8 Litre 20v Engine:
Spark Plugs Set Ngk - x4 PFR6Q
NEW O.E Quality Coopers Panel Air Filter
Pipercross Performance Air Filter - PP1443
NEW O.E Quality Coopers Spin-On Oil Filter
CASTROL EDGE 5W-40 Synthetic Engine Oil 4 Litre

If you like this page check out this great business directory and shopping website -> -> -> goomad.co.uk

Passat B5 Service Inspection Reset

2010-11-03T14:36:00.009+00:00

This is a very simple proceedure to clear the service inspection due notice which appears when you start the car. If you have had your car serviced by an independant local garage or have done it yourself you will want to clear these messages. Although this method will clear the message it will still retain inspection data retreivable by the dealership.

Looking at the instrument cluster you will see two adjuster knobs protruding. The left one is to adjust the clock and the right is to reset your odometer trip mileage. With the ignition off completely press and hold the trip reset knob down while turning the ignition to the first position. Release the knob and the display on the right should change to displaying 'OIL'. Now turn the clock adjuster knob to the right, you will feel it click and the service inspection for the oil should change to three dashes '- - -'. Turn the ignition off.

To reset the 'INSP' follow the same method but hold down the right trip adjuster knob again until 'INSP' appears on the display. Again just turn the clock adjuster knob to the right and the display will change to the three dashes '- - -'. Turn off the ignition and the service inspection display will be reset
.

If you don't have a Haynes manual for this vehicle you can buy one here:

VW Passat (96-00) Service and Repair Manual (Haynes Service and Repair Manuals)

Next blog

Blog Directory - Directory, reviews and more. Your one-stop blog spot!

Feedback and comments welcome.
If you found this guide useful please click on my sponsored links.

Passat B5 Throttle Body & ECU Reset (Battery Replacement)

2010-11-02T14:25:00.014+00:00

This is a very simple guide but often overlooked, especially when having a flat battery that needs replacing as thoughts are usually around the cost of the battery and having to extract the old one and dispose of it. But this is the ideal opportunity to reset the ECU and throttle body which should optimise the cars running and clear any error codes.

Using a 10mm spanner remove the negative terminal from the battery and leave off for at least an hour, this will give the time for everything to reset internally. If you are replacing the battery you will obviously need to remove the positive terminal and the battery holding plate located to the side of the positive terminal. You will need a 10mm socket with a ratchet and extension bar for clearance. Refit the terminals positive first so as not to throw a spark from the battery and possibly short a connection which could blow a fuse.

Battery dimensions

Firstly I tried resetting the throttle body using the following method:

Leave the drivers door open and turn the ignition to the first position but do not start the car
Wait for approximately 3 minutes
Turn the ignition off

Secondly I used two methods to reset the ECU which seemed to do the trick:

Turn the ignition to the first position but do not start the car
Press down on the accelerator pedal fully and hold down for approximately 20 seconds
Release the pedal and turn off the ignition

Turn the ignition to the first position and do not start the car for approximately 5 minutes
Start the car but do not rev the engine
Allow the engine to idle for approximately 4 minutes while the rev needle hunts up and down
You will hear the engine note drop and the rev needle settle at around 900rpm
Turn engine off
Restart the engine and go for a good 10 minute drive around the block

Thats it! I had explored several ideas and recommendations for this and found that once I performed the above methods everything settled and the car seems to run smoother now as well. This is a very simple fix but to my knowledge hasn't been documented with any certainty but I can confirm that this worked on my UK 1997 1.8 20v SE model.

After replacing a dead battery you may find that you will need to reset the auto function for the electric windows, a feature that closes all electric windows and sunroof automatically. Refer to your owners manual if unsure.

Ensure all windows are fully closed (and sunroof if applicable)
Exit the car and lock it using the key
Unlock the car and lock again holding the key in the locked position until the alarm LED starts to blink
The function should now have reset and work again.

VW Transponder Key

If you have any ECU fault codes that will not clear then you may need to seek professional guidance. Alternatively you can purchase your own diagnostic code reader:

MAXSCAN VAG 405 VAG450 AIRBAG ABS OBD2 RESET CAN CODE READER SCANNER

Next blog

www.freebd.co.uk

Passat B5 Steering Wheel Removal

2010-11-01T18:26:00.027+00:00

Hi and welcome to my Passat B5 blog. I decided to start writing my own guides after having to trawl the internet in search of 'how to's' and useful instructional guides. I have been building cars for over 10 years and began after realising that I could often do a better job than the mechanic I would be paying. So here it is my first guide...

Tools required:

T55 Torx bit or 12 point bit (obtained from dealer)
Torque wrench
ratchet for torx bit
extension for rachet and bit
10mm socket head
10mm spanner
small flat head screwdriver

Ensure your wheels are pointing dead straight. I found it best to let the car roll into its parking space, not holding the steering wheel and allowing the car to find its own positioning.

Next use the 10mm spanner to remove the negative terminal from the battery located at the back of the engine bay. This is very important as you don't want the airbag accidentally going off while you are working. Remember that disconnecting the battery will reset your stereo, clock and ECU, I will cover these in more detail but if you have a factory radio you will need the security code (usually in the manual or you may need to contact the dealer).

Insert the key into the ignition and turn to the first click so the wheel won't lock as you will need the wheel free to rotate in order to get the airbag off. Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees one way to allow full access to the back. At the back of the wheel on each side you will find a small hole just big enough for a small flat head screw driver.

Insert the screw driver in the hole making sure its angled with the handle against the column. Push it until you feel resistance from the clip. You need to push the screw driver down on the clip within the steering wheel that holds the airbag locking latch in place. This may require a few attempts before feeling and hearing the catch release. The airbag should pop forward on one side. Remove the screw driver and turn the wheel in the opposite direction until you can access the second hole and repeat the process with the screw driver until you feel the airbag catch pop. You can then allow the airbag to come forward slightly.

Carefully unplug the yellow connector attached to the back of the airbag and place it somewhere secure. You can now see the centre nut holding the wheel in place and if you look just above the springs you will see where the screw driver releases the catches.

Using the T55 torx bit (or 12 point bit) you can now undo the centre nut. I used a T55 bit attached to a 10mm socket with 1/2 extender bar and torque wrench. The nut should be very tight so hold the steering wheel steady with one hand while turning the nut. If the steering wheel has seized onto the spline a good tip is to refit the nut 2 turns before pulling at the wheel, that will stop you losing any teeth as well as avoid damaging the wiring harness behind the steering wheel. Once free carefully pull the wheel forward and allow the wiring harness to free itself.

REFITTING

Place the steering whel onto the steering column ensuring the splines line up and the wheel is in the correct position. The centering mark on the wheel needs to line with the centering mark on the column. Using a torque wrench set to 50 newtonmeteres or 37ft lb you can retighten the nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can use a socket set wrench with a piece of pipe for leverage. Ive read that the nut has a life of 5 uses before needing replacement but as long as you don't overtighten or damage the nut it should be okay anyway. Plug the yellow airbag connector back into the rear of the airbag and push the airbag back into the steering wheel until you feel it click on both sides. Remove the key from the ignition and reconnect the battery with the 10mm spanner. Turn the ignition to the first position and check all warning lights go out correctly but don't start the engine yet.

You will need to enter your radio security code and reset your clock. Refer to your owners handbook if usure. At this point you will need to make sure you correctly reset your ECU to allow any fault codes to clear and the engine to run properly.

Now refer to my Passat B5 ECU Reset. > > > Click here < < <

www.freebd.co.uk