VW Passat Repair

How to check the Timing Belt on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T

2014-05-17T18:28:00.000-07:00

If you are nearing the 70-80k mile threshold, it would be a good idea to check the status of the Timing Belt on your VW Passat. The Timing Belt is located on the right side of the engine facing the antifreeze coolant tank. It upper part of the main cover has a removable plastic cover. It is fastened in place by a plastic screw in the upper right corner. You can easily access the Timing Belt compartment by removing this plastic cover and inspect the condition of the timing belt. You should look for tiny cracks, missing teeth, dust in the compartment from deterioration of the belt, etc. Inspect the belt's play by twisting it, if you can turn it more than half way around, it may not be as tense as it should be. Regardless, the safest way to ensure that your Passat's Timing Belt does not break on you or shred while driving is by replacing it according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Repairs can be extremely costly otherwise.

How to replace the Purge Valve on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T

2014-05-17T16:55:00.000-07:00

2006 VW Passat 2.0T EVAP Purge Valve

I had trouble starting my 2006 VW Passat 2.0T after refueling, especially when the gas tank was near empty. I started noticing that whenever I would stop to refuel my B6 Passat even at a quarter tank, it would take multiple attempts at starting and I would even depress the gas pedal a few times to get it started. However, I could drive it for a few minutes after refueling, turn off the engine, and it would start up without any hesitation for days, until the next refueling. So to make a long story short, I found out that the EVAP Purge Valve was causing this problem. I replaced it with a Genuine 2006 VW Passat 2006 Purge Valve and the starting problem was solved. The Purge Valve controls the flow of vapors from the EVAP system to the intake manifold. The OEM 2006 VW Passat Purge Valve is not expensive and can be found in the $20 price range. The VW Passat Purge Valve replacement is quite simple.

STEP 1: Remove the engine cover to expose the engine. The Purge Valve in located in the front left side of the engine. In the image below, you can see the Purge Valve in the lower mid right side of the picture. The Purge Valve connects two hoses, one from each end, which are fastened by the silver color hose clamps in the image below. Under the right clamp in the image below you can see the harness/colored wires that connect the Purge Valve to the ECM (the main computer of the car). Disconnect this plug and then remove the clamps that fasten the hoses from each end of the Purge Valve. After that, pull the Purge Valve forward, and it will slide off the prong that holds it from the top. In the second image below, you can see this prong protruding through the rectangular rubber holder on top of the Purge Valve.

STEP 2: Connect the new Purge Valve to the hoses from each end. Fasten the hoses by tightening the clamps gently (they don't need to be very tight), just enough to hold the hose in place. Then slide the Purge Valve onto the metal prong holder and connect the plug that links the Purge Valve to the ECM, Finally, put back the air filter/engine cover on.

How to replace the Diverter Valve on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T (000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation P0299 - 002 - Control Range Not Reached).

2013-06-19T20:12:00.000-07:00

At about 56,000 miles on my B6 Passat 2.0T , the CEL (Check Engine Light) came on, and when I scanned the car with VAG-COM, the following fault code was displayed:

000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 002 - Control Range Not Reached

When I first bought the B6 Passat 2.0T, it really had power when the turbo kicked in, and now it felt like the engine was revving but you couldn't feel that power that pushed you back in your seat. After some research, I found the following information at ECS Tuning stating that when the 2.0T was introduced, one of the first failing points was the rubber diaphragm in the original diverter valve, even under stock boost pressure. When the seal fails, the boost escapes past the turbo, causing a large boost leak, which reduces performance. After many revisions the entire unit was redesigned, and "D" version was introduced, with a piston in place of the rubber diaphragm. This is a mechanical design that is more durable and is a great upgrade for all stock or modified 2.0T FSI & TSI engines.

The part number for the Diverter Valve is 06H145710DKT , and the OEM Upgraded Diverter Valve (ES#:263879) can be purchased online from ECS Tuning.

You can see the torn rubber diaphragm at the base of the stock Diverter Valve which is the green one on the left compared to the OEM Upgraded Diverter Valve on the right.

Replacing the Diverter Valve on the B6 VW Passat 2.0T is very simple. It is located behind the engine in front of the firewall, and you can access this part from under the car. An easy way to identify the Diverter Valve is that it is fastened by 3 silver Hex screws and it has an electric connector that plugs into it as displayed in the center of the image below.

Disconnect the electric connector first, and then unscrew the 3 silver Hex screws which will release the Diverter Valve part.

Attach the new Diverter Valve, fasten it with the 3 silver Hex screws and connect the electric connecter to the Diverter Valve. You may need to reset the fault code with VAG-COM.

How To Replace the Air Cabin (AC) Filter on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0 T.

2013-06-19T19:56:00.000-07:00

Changing the Air Cabin (AC) Filter on your VW yearly is a very good practice especially if you suffer from seasonal allergies or commute in an area with lots of construction and road work. The filter element is not an expensive repair at all. You can purchase an OEM Air Cabin (AC) Filter with discounted prices ranging from $11-$18 for a replacement part, and a yearly replacement interval. Why not eliminate unpleasant odors and enjoy cleaner fresh air while driving your VW.

OEM Air Cabin (AC) Filter

The Air Cabin (AC) Filter is located under the glove compartment in front of the passenger front seat.

Start by removing the 2 black plastic knobs that fasten the black foam cover.

This is the Air Cabin (AC) Filter compartment. You need to slide the black filter base cover to the right first and then pull it down to remove it.

This is the Air Cabin (AC) Filter Element.

Place a plastic bag or cover beneath the filter, then pull the Air Cabin (AC) Filter element down to remove it. By doing so, you will not have the dirt and debris from the filter falling on the passenger side foot compartment.

Insert vertically the new Air Cabin (AC) Filter Element

Place the filter base hooks into the filter slots as shown in the images below.

Push the filter into the compartment completely and then fasten the base by sliding it to the left side.

Put the foam cover back into place.

Fasten the foam cover by locking in the 2 plastic black knobs.

How to replace the Strut Mount & Spring Seat on a 2004 VW Jetta.

2012-05-12T10:29:00.002-07:00

An easy way to find out when you need to replace your Strut Mounts is by visually inspecting the Stop component of the strut from the engine compartment as illustrated in the images below. The first image shows the Stop Component of the strut elevated which indicates that the Strut Mount is worn out. While a healthy Strut Mount will not let the Stop Component of the strut move much as illustrated in the second image.

Elevated Stop Component of Strut (Worn Strut Mount)

Normally Positioned Stop Component of Strut (Normal Strut Mount)

Strut Mount Comparison (Worn vs. New)

STEP 1: Remove the tire to access the front suspension compartment.

This is the Spring and Strut of the front suspension.

Strut Spring Compressor Tool

STEP 2: Carfully place the Strut Spring Compressor Tool along each side of the Strut Spring. Then, start compressing the Strut Spring carefully by working both sides in an alternating fashion.

One thing to pay attention to is that the end of the Strut Spring has a designated groove that it ends in.

STEP 3: Now you need to remove the Stop Component of the Strut by using a special Socket Wrench as illustrated below and a 7 MM Torx Bit.

After removing the Stop Component of the Strut, you can now visualize the Strut Mount from the engine compartment side.

STEP 4: Detach the ABS & Brake Sensor Wire Bundle from the attaching hooks on the right side of the Strut.

STEP 5: Unscrew and detach the metal bracket carefully using a flat head screwdrive to prye it out of its attaching slot.

Now you have exposed the bolt and nut that fasten the Strut of the front suspension.

STEP 6: By using 2 Socket Wrenches in opposite directions undo the Bolt and Nut assembly that fastens the Strut into its seat.

STEP 7: You may want to spray some WD-40 where the Strut fits into its seat and then with the help of a prye bar, carefully pull it out of its seat by applying downward pressure on the seat to release the Strut.

You may want to remove one of the bolts that fasten the Sway Bar Link inorder to be able to press down the suspension with a prye bar to facilitate the removal of the strut from its seat.

STEP 8: After you have removed the Strut out, unscrew the nut with the 7MM Torx Bit & socket wrench. Then remove the Strut Mount, Strut Bearing, and Spring Seat in the following order.

STEP 9: After removing the Strut Mount, Bearing, and Spring Seat in the following order, remove the compressed Strut Spring. Then remove the Strut Boot and inspect the Bumper and shaft surface to make sure they are not damaged and that the shocks are not leaking oil.

STEP 10: Place the Strut Boot back on the Strut and then place back the compressed Strut Spring onto the Strut and into its designated groove at the bottom of the Strut.

STEP 11: Then place the Spring Seat, Strut Bearing, and Strut Mount in the following order and fasten them using the Socket Wrench and 7MM Torx Bit.

STEP 12: Place the Strut back into its normal position and lower it down completely into its seat until you can see a patent passage for the bolt that fastens it into position.

STEP 13: Place the Bolt and Nut that fasten the Strut into position carefully and tighten them accordingly.

STEP 14: Reasseble the Stop Component of the Strut from the Engine Compartment side and tighten with the socket wrench and 7MM Torx Bit accordingly.

STEP 15: Reattach the ABS & Brake Sensor wires into their designated attachment sites at the top and bottom.

STEP 16: Reattach and srew in the metal bracket into its designated attachment site.

STEP 17: Tighten the Sway Bar Link Bolt back into postion. This was removed earlier to allow the suspension to be pressed down with a prye bar inorder to facilitate the removal of the Strut from its seat.

STEP 18: Tighten the nut that fastens the Stop Component of the Strut from the engine compartment. Then place back the plastic round cover that goes on top of it.

STEP 19: Perform a final inspection on all the srews, nuts, bolts, ABS & Brake sensor wires to make sure that everything is tightened and in its proper place.

STEP 20: Put on the tire and tighten the nuts. Finally, lower the jack carefully and observe the Stop Component of the Strut from the engine compartment. It should barely move and shouldn't have a gap as illustrated in the images at the begining of this article.

How to Replace the Air Cabin (AC) Filter on a 2004 VW Jetta.

2012-04-22T18:44:00.000-07:00

Changing the Air Cabin (AC) Filter on your VW yearly is a very good practice especially if you suffer from seasonal allergies or commute in an area with lots of construction and road work. The filter element is not an expensive repair at all, with discounted prices ranging from $15-$37 at Parts Train for a replacement part, and a yearly replacement interval. Why not eliminate unpleasant odors and enjoy cleaner fresh air while driving your VW.

Air Cabin (AC) Filter Element.

STEP 1: The Air Cabin (AC) Filter of the 2004 VW Jetta is located on the left upper corner of the engine compartment at the base the the front windsheild.

STEP 2: Unscrew the four screws shown in the image below that fasten the Lid that seals the Air Cabin (AC) Filter compartment.

STEP 3: Remove the rubber lining in front of the Lid inorder to facilitate its removal.

STEP 4: Remove the Lid inorder to access the Air Cabin (AC) Filter compartment.

STEP 5: Carefully remove the Air Cabin (AC) Filter out.

STEP 6: Make sure the Air Cabin (AC) Filter Compartment is clean before installing new filter.

STEP 7: Insert the new Air Cabin (AC) Filter element into the filter frame.

STEP 8: Carefully reinsert the Air Cabin (AC) Filter properly into its designated position. The small plastic extension which fastens the Air Cabin (AC) filter into position should be facing you when you insert the filter, and then lock into position as shown in the third and fourth images.

STEP 9: Place back the Lid that seals off the Air Cabin (AC) Filter compartment and fasten it into position with the 4 screws as shown in the image below. Finally, put back the rubber trim into position.

How to Replace The CV Joint Boot on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0 T.

2012-03-09T17:28:00.005-08:00

This article shows how to replace the CV Joint Boots on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0 T. It is a good practice to examine the CV Joint Boots on a yearly basis or when rotating the tires. It is a lot cheaper to replace the boot in time instead of the actual CV Joint.

Original 2006 VW Passat Outboard CV Joint Boot Kit

STEP 1: Loosen the five lug nuts that fasten the rim and remove the center VW cap. Then remove the center bolt and jack up the car to remove the tire.

M14 Center Bolt

This is the left outboard CV Joint Boot. The boot is actually torn to left side of the smaller CV Joint Boot band (clamp) groove (removed in this image) from the top.

STEP 2: Remove the bolt that fastens the Outer Tie Rod End.

These are the three bolts that fasten the outboard CV Joint.

STEP 3: Unscrew the bolts of the outboard CV Joint Seat.

STEP 4: Lift the outboard CV Joint off its seat. You can use a pry bar carefully to do so if it is difficult to move.

This is where the center bolt fastens to the output shaft of the CV Joint in the hub. You may need to spray some WD-40 into it inorder to be able to pull out the output shaft of the CV Joint from the hub because it may be a little rusted.

I clipped off the outboard CV Joint Boot Band (clamp) in this image for viewing purposes. It is preferable that you don't remove the large band (clamp) until you have removed the whole shaft with both outboard and inboard CV Joints.

Inboard CV Joint

STEP 5: Some cars have the inboard CV Joint fastened by 6 Hex bolts, but on the 2006 VW Passat 2.0T, there are no bolts. Remove the inboard CV Joint carefully with the help of a pry bar.

Whole CV Shaft with outboard and inboard CV Joints.

This is where the inboard CV Joint Output Shaft connects to the gear box.

Fasten the center of the CV Shaft between two pieces of wood, to avoid damaging the CV Shaft.

Before we go any further, I would like to point out something that can save you some time. In my case, only the outboard CV Joint Boot was a little torn, but when I removed the whole CV Joint Shaft and examined the inboard CV Joint Boot, the rubber was worn out as well eventhough it wasn't torn. Therefore I recommend that you change both CV Joint Boots at the same time. Also, if the CV Joint Boot isn't completely torn and no debris has damaged the CV Joint, you can replace both boots by only removing the inboard CV Joint and sliding the outboard CV Joint Boot down the shaft from the inboard CV Joint side as I did in this case without taking apart the outboard CV Joint.

STEP 6: Now, remove the inboard CV Joint large band (clamp) and slide out the metal housing above a drip pan to capture the grease that may drip from the boot.

STEP 7: Remove the round Snap Ring at the outer edge of the shaft and slide off the Spider & Rollers assembly from the shaft (mark the Spider & Roller assembly with a marker to ensure proper reassembly on the CV Shaft). Then remove the inboard CV Joint Boot and the outboard CV Joint Boot as well by sliding it down the CV Shaft. Clean all the parts from the grease or debris if any with a parts cleaner solvent and blow dry them with an airgun.

STEP 8: Place the CV Shaft in a vertical position with the outboard CV Joint in the lower position. Then empty the tube of grease as shown onto the CV Joint making sure you lubricate the crevices and avoid getting grease outside the rim to ensure clean assembly. Pay attention to the grease tubes if you are replacing both boots, because the outboard CV Joint grease is thicker in consistency and color than the inboard CV Joint grease. So don't mix up the tubes!!!

STEP 9: Slide down the outboard CV Joint Boot with the large band (clamp) until it slips into the designated groove on the metal housing. Now make sure that it is in the right position and then tighten the band (clamp) with the CV Boot Clamp Pliers.

STEP 10: Slide the smaller end of the outboard CV Joint Boot into its designated groove on the CV Shaft. Then slide the smaller band (clamp) into position, make sure everything is correctly positioned and then tighten the band (clamp) with the CV Boot Clamp Pliers.

STEP 11: Now, slide the small band (clamp) down the CV Shaft followed by the inboard CV Joint Boot.

STEP 12: Reassemble the Spider & Rollers onto the CV Shaft.

STEP 13: Then put on the round Snap Ring to lock them into position.

STEP 14: Now, place the round Spring Clip on the outer end of the Output Shaft that extends from the metal housing of the inboard CV Joint. This way you will not forget it.

STEP 15: Place the inboard CV Joint Metal Housing vertically. Then empty the whole tube of grease that came with the inboard CV Joint Boot Kit into the metal housing of the inboard CV Joint. You can see in the following image that the color and consistency of the grease for the inboard CV Joint differs from the outboard CV Joint.

STEP 16: Make sure that you have already slid the small band (clamp) and inboard CV Joint Boot onto the CV Shaft as mentioned in STEP 11!!! If you have done so, now place the inboard CV Joint into the greased metal housing slowly until it reaches the bottom of the metal housing

STEP 17: Slide down the inboard CV Joint Boot until it fits into its designated groove on the metal housing of the inboard CV Joint.

STEP 18: Inspect the large end of the inboard CV Joint Boot to make sure it is in the groove correctly, then put the Large Boot Band (clamp) into position and carefully tighten it using the CV Boot Clamp Pliers.

STEP 19: Slide the smaller end of the inboard CV Joint Boot into its designated groove on the CV Shaft, then slide the Small Boot Band (clamp) into position. After inspecting that everything is properly positioned, carefully tighten the smaller boot band (clamp) with the CV Boot Clamp Pliers.

Completed CV Joint Boot Replacement.

STEP 20: Insert the output shaft of the inboard CV Joint into the designated gearbox hole carefully, until it is fully pushed in.

STEP 21: Now, insert the Output Shaft of the outboard CV Joint into its designated hole in the hub carefully, until it is pushed in completely.

STEP 22: Place the CV Joint & Hub assembly onto the CV Joint seat and fasten the the bolts.

STEP 23: After making sure that the Output Shaft of the outboard CV Joint is positioned properly in the hub, place the center bolt back into position and tighten it with a Torque Wrench according to VW specifications of your car. For the 2006 VW Passat M14 bolt, tighten to 85 ft-lbs/115 Nm, then turn an additional 180°.

STEP 24: Reattach the Outer Tie Rod End and tighten its attaching bolt.

STEP 25: Finally, place the tire back on the hub, tighten all the lug nuts, and install the center VW Cap over the center bolt.

VW Warranty Extension for Intake Manifold Runner Control Motor and Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve.

2011-12-05T18:25:00.000-08:00

Just recieved a letter from VW of America stating that they are extending the warranty for these parts on certain 2.0L TFSI engine vehicles (Engine Code BPY), for 2006-2008 model year Passat, Eos, Jetta, and GTI.

The letter states the following:

     As part of VW's ongoing commitment to customer satisfaction, we are informing you of our decision to extend the warranty for your vehicle's intake manifold runner control motor and the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve under specific conditions to 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle's original in-service date.

    The vehicle's original in-service date is defined as the date the vehicle was delivered to either the original purchaser or the original lessee; or if the vehicle was first plaed in service as a "demonstrator" or "company" car, on the date such vehicle was first placed in service.

What is the Problem?

     VW has determined that under specific conditions the intake manifold runner control motor and the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve can be susceptible to degraded performance.

If this happens, the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the istrument cluster may illuminate due to the presence of specific fault codes. (The MIL is part of your on-board diagnostic system. Please refer to your owner's manual for additional information about the MIL). In some locales, an illuminated Malfunction Indicator Lamp could cause your vehicle to fail a smog check program, and your vehicle registration application could be denied.

Please be aware that other conditions (unrelated to the problem described in this letter) may cause the MIL in you vehicle to illuminate. Customers should be prepared to cover all diagnosis and repair costs for these other, unrelated conditions.

How to replace the G62 Coolant Sensor on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T

2011-11-23T21:21:00.003-08:00

VW Passat G62 Coolant Sensor.

The CEL (Check Engine LIght) came ON and after scanning the car with VAG-COM by Ross-Tech, the report displayed the following fault code:

008577 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 84971 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.09.24
Time: 16:47:51

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1491 /min
Load: 27.4 %
Speed: 52.0 km/h
Temperature: 74.0°C
Temperature: 42.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.097 V

This fault code could result from various causes. These causes could range from a faulty thermostat, G62 Coolant Sensor, radiator fan, or even a discrepancy in the antifreeze concentration. In my case, it was a faulty G62 Sensor.

STEP 1

First of all, the G62 Coolant Sensor is located on the right side of the engine at about mid level. It is a black plug in the middle of the image below with a green and brown wire attached to it.

This is a close up of the G62 Coolant Sensor Plug.

STEP 2

Remove the black G62 Coolant Sensor plug. After that, you must remove the fastening clip in the 2nd image below. This clip slides into a groove that is perpendicular to the G62 Coolant Sensor, and holds it in place. It prevents the G62 Coolant Sensor from popping out and leaking all the antifreeze. You can see the groove in the 1st picture below, on the top part of the black part where the sensor plugs into.

STEP 3

Now, there is an easy way to replace the G62 Coolant Sensor without flushing out all the antifreeze. You put a few folded towels under the sensor, pull out the old sensor and insert the new G62 Coolant Sensor. Before doing this, make sure that the new sensor is ready with a new O Ring on it. When you pull the old sensor out, antifreeze is going to start leaking out, but it only takes a few seconds to plug in the new sensor and stop the leak. ***One problem that might arise when you pull out the old G62 Coolant Sensor is that the O ring may slide off the sensor, so you have to stick your finger in the opening and pull it out.*** So make sure that the engine is cold so you don't burn yourself with hot antifreeze.***

STEP 4

After inserting the new G62 Coolant Sensor, place the fastening clip into its groove and make sure the sensor can't be pulled out. Then insert the plug back into the G62 Coolant sensor until it clicks into a fastened position.

Step 5

Finally, check the level of antifreeze and add coolant accordingly to adjust for the loss during the replacement of the G62 Coolant Sensor. Scan the car with VAG-COM again and clear the fault code. Then start the engine and check for any leaks.

How to replace the Steering Wheel Clockspring on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T (Part 1).

2011-11-20T14:00:00.002-08:00

VW Passat 2.0T Steering Wheel Clockspring.

While making a turn at an intersection, the airbag light came ON in the dash and then the MFD (multifunction display) showed Airbag Fault. Also, the buttons on the steering wheel stopped working and wouldn’t even light up when the headlight switch was turned to the ON position. I scanned the car with VAG-COM by Ross-Tech and the following fault codes showed on the report.

01587 - Igniter 2 for Airbag; Drivers Side (N250)
001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
00588 - Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N95)
001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON

Due to the fact that the steering wheel multifunction buttons stopped working and lighting at the same time as the airbag fault light came ON, it narrowed it down to the steering wheel Clockspring. Below are step by step illustrations showing how to replace the steering wheel clockspring on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T.

STEP 1

First of all, you need to start by placing the key in the ignition and pressing it in until the dash icons light up only without starting the engine. Making sure that the steering wheel is in the center position, turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to the left. Now leave the key/steering wheel in this position, and disconnect the battery cables. After disconnecting the battery, don’t start working on the car for about 20 minutes to make sure all circuits are off. Otherwise, there is a chance that the airbag may deploy when it is being disconnected. Now the reason why we left the key in the ignition is to avoid the steering wheel from locking up when we turn it with the battery disconnected.

STEP 2

Now, start by prying open the top cover of the steering wheel with a flat head screwdriver and cloth to avoid scratching the plastic. It pops right off because it is held on by clips. After you remove this cover you will be able to see the steering wheel clockspring right behind the steering wheel and it will make the steering wheel clips easier to access.

This is the steering wheel Clockspring from a vertical view. It is the first part right behind the steering wheel with a white rectangular sticker on it.

STEP 3
Place a small mirror on the dash so you can get a rear view of the steering wheel. You will see the metal steering wheel clips that hold the steering wheel airbag.

STEP 4
Place a small screw driver on top of the metal clip and press it down to release it from the black latch. After doing so, the steering wheel airbag will come loose and pop out from one side. After releasing the first airbag clip, turn the steering wheel 180 degrees so the second airbag clip is in the vertical position and release it as well. Now the steering wheel airbag should be full detached and only connected by the yellow wire harness.

STEP 5
Now the yellow airbag connecter harness has an organge part on the right side. Inorder to disconnect it, you need to slide the orange part toward you in an upward dirction and it will detach.

STEP 6
Now turn the steering wheel back to the center position. Pay special attention if there are two markings 1)on the top edge of the center shaft and 2)on the opposite side of the first marking on the steering wheel part is your second marking. When you remove the steering wheel and want to put it back, these two markings have to be aligned inorder for the steering wheel to be centered. It should have these markings already, but if it doesn't, then mark them before removing the steering wheel.

STEP 7
Remove the center bolt that attaches the steering wheel.

STEP 8
This is a close up of the markings mentioned in the earlier step. Make sure they are there before removing the steering wheel.

STEP 9
Unscrew the two screws on the sides of the Clockspring to remove the lower steering column cover.

Beneath the Clockspring is the electronic module (with the yellow sticker on it), which the Clockspring plugs into.

STEP 10
On the right side of the electronic module are two black plastic clips. You need to unlatch them with a small flathead screwdriver to release the electronic module below, causing it to drop and detach from where the Clockspring is plugged into it on the front right side (where the yellow sticker is in the 2nd picture).

STEP 11
Now, remove the steering wheel Clockspring by simply pulling it out.

How to replace the Steering Wheel Clockspring on a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T (Part 2).

2011-11-20T12:16:00.002-08:00

STEP 12

Now, pay special attention to the red safety cover on the steering wheel Clockspring. It's purpose is to keep the Clockspring in a center position until it is installed. Place the steering wheel Clockspring into position.

STEP 13
After you have placed the steering wheel Clockspring into position, remove the red safety cover and make sure you don't turn the Clockspring at all until final assembly of the steering wheel. Now lift the electronic module upwards until it plugs into the steering wheel Clockspring and it's clips latch on into position.

STEP 14

Now, elevate the lower steering column cover and fasten it into place with the two screws on each side.

STEP 15

Place the steering wheel into position paying special attention to the center markings on the steering wheel and center column. Make sure they are alligned to ensure proper installation. Also, make sure the top brown wires are snuggly fit into their designated space, so they don't get pinched when you install the airbag.

STEP 16

Now, fasten the steering wheel by tightening the center bolt back into postion. Plug the yellow steering wheel airbag plug into it's harness, and make sure it clicks into position for proper connection or else airbag may not deploy.

STEP 17

Place the top steering column cover into position and press down on it until it clicks into a fastened position.

STEP 18

Place the steering wheel airbag into position, making sure the connector wires of the yellow plug are not going to be pinched and press it into position until the metal clips snap into place on both sides.

STEP 19

Now, ***with the steering wheel assembled and in the center postion, remove the key from the ignition***. Then reconnect the battery. Now, arm and disarm the alarm system to inactivate the engine immobilizer. ***When you start the car keep the steering wheel in the center position as we mentioned earlier.*** The ESP light and the yellow steering wheel light on the dash may come ON, because the steering wheel angle calibration must be done. Now turn the car off, push the key in until the dash lights up and scan the car at this time with VAG-COM. It may give you multiple fault codes because the battery was disconnected and due to the steering wheel maintenance. Clear all the fault codes and the one that will remain is the following:

1 Fault Found:
8 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation

The ESP and Yellow steering wheel lights on the dash will still be there after clearing the codes. Now, we will calibrate the steering wheel angle.
With the engine running and the steering wheel in center position, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right first, then all the way to the left, then back to the center and then drive the car forward at no more than 20 MPH. This should turn off the EPC, yellow steering wheel light, and calibrate the steering wheel angle. If this doesn't do it then you will need to calibrate with VAG-COM.

How To Replace The PCV Crankcase Vent Valve On A 2006 B6 VW Passat 2.0 T (008583 - Bank 1; System too Lean at Idle, 008825 - Leak in Air Intake System)

2011-10-28T13:14:00.001-07:00

One morning when I started my passat, the engine started shuddering at idle like it was trying not to choke. When I drove I couldn't really feel anything, but it was very obvious during idle. Then the CEL (Check Engine Light) came on, so I scanned the car with VAG-COM by Ross-Tech and the following fault codes listed below where displayed on the report.

CRANKCASE VENT VALVE (PCV VALVE)

Fault Codes:

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 3C0 907 115 F HW: 3C0 907 115 F
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0030
Software Coding: 0404010A19070160
Work Shop Code: WSC 05089 444 84564
VCID: 234F829E9B45
9 Faults Found:

008583 - Bank 1; System too Lean at Idle
P2187 - 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 18
Mileage: 84055 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.09.19
Time: 13:59:26

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 890 /min
Load: 19.6 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 78.0°C
Temperature: 54.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.589 V

008825 - Leak in Air Intake System
P2279 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 5
Mileage: 84071 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.09.19
Time: 15:27:57

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 856 /min
Load: 16.1 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 87.0°C
Temperature: 68.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.208 V

000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Control Range Not Reached
P0299 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 84132 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.09.20
Time: 12:37:50

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2826 /min
Load: 78.8 %
Speed: 81.0 km/h
Temperature: 77.0°C
Temperature: 41.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.716 V

000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 6
Mileage: 84438 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.09.20
Time: 20:14:22

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 817 /min
Load: 14.5 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 81.0°C
Temperature: 61.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.589 V

000771 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 6
Mileage: 84438 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.09.20
Time: 20:15:17

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 841 /min
Load: 14.9 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 82.0°C
Temperature: 63.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.335 V

000772 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 6
Mileage: 84438 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.09.20
Time: 20:15:17

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 841 /min
Load: 14.9 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 82.0°C
Temperature: 63.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.335 V

000770 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0302 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 5
Mileage: 84438 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.09.20
Time: 20:15:17

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 841 /min
Load: 14.9 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 82.0°C
Temperature: 63.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.335 V

000769 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected
P0301 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 84517 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.09.20
Time: 23:16:07

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1779 /min
Load: 31.4 %
Speed: 34.0 km/h
Temperature: 84.0°C
Temperature: 57.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.716 V

So after doing a lot of research, I found out that the Crankcase Vent Valve might be the cause of all these faults, and due to the leak in the intake, the cylinders are misfiring. One way to check if the Crankcase vent valve is faulty, is to start the engine and try to remove the engine Oil cap, and due to the very high suction, it is literally very hard to remove it. And that was the case with my car, I'm not saying its impossible to remove the oil cap while the engine is running, but you have to really pull on it to remove it compared to the normal situation where it comes off easy. Below are pictures and DIY steps for replacing the Crankcase vent valve.

STEP 1

Remove the plasic Silver Engine cover and locate the Crankcase Vent Valve to the right of the engine oil cap.

STEP 2

Remove the 2 hoses that attach to the Crankcase Vent Valve by carefully pressing on the lock rings that fasten them and pulling them back.

STEP 3

Unscrew the 4 screws that attach the Crankcase Vent Valve to the enginge.

STEP 4

This is the Crankcase Vent Valve Gasket. Pay special attention to the little tail at the bottom of the right ring. This is there for a reason, so the gasket is not installed upside down. This Gasket costs about $45 and the next question is "Does it need to be replaced?". Well, it is always best to replace with a new one, but in this case, you don't need to replace it if it is not damaged.

STEP 5

If you decide on replacing the old Crankcase Vent Valve Gasket, then make sure you clean the grooves that it fits in with a cloth and thin screwdriver from any scum or residue.

STEP 6

When installing the new Crankcase Vent Valve Gasket, pay special attention to the tail on the bottom of the right ring, and snuggly fit the gasket into the groove.

STEP 7

After carefully checking that the gasket is in place, attach the new Crankcase Vent Valve and fasten it with the 4 screws. Be very careful when tightening the screws, so you don't over tighten and damage the Crankcase Vent Valve. It is a plastic part and can crack. Then attach the the inner hose first and make sure it locks into position.

STEP 8

Attach the second hose and also make sure it locks into position. Then do a final check to make sure everything is connected properly and attach the silver engine cover.

STEP 9

Now reset the fault codes using VAG-COM and start the engine. Even if you start the engine before reseting the fault codes, you will definitely feel a big change in engine performance immediately. The CEL will not turn off by itself, so you will definitely need to use VAG-COM to turn it off.