Are you thinking of planting Cordyline australis in your garden? Tropical plants are a great option for any garden, creating a touch of paradise in your own backyard.

Cordyline australis are remarkable tropical plants, suitable for both indoor and outdoor growth. They’re easy to establish, easy to propagate and fairly easy to grow.

If you have ever wondered how to grow Cordyline australis, here is absolutely everything you need to know about planting and growing Cordyline australis plants in Australia.

When to plant cordyline australis

The best time of year for planting cordyline australis is in the spring, after the risk of frosty morning temperatures has past. Cordyline australis falls under the category of warm and cool temperate cordyline.

Warm and cool temperate cordylines prefer full-sun to part shade. They are adaptable to most soil types, but good drainage is essential, and will be relatively tolerant of dry and hot conditions once established. Some forms can tolerate frost and temperatures down to -15°C.

Tropical and sub-tropical cordylines will tolerate sun through shade, but can become leggy in too much shade. They like a rich, well-drained soil and reliable moisture, but can tolerate dry periods. However, one thing it is important to note is that cordylines will need wind protection.

Cordyline australis varieties

Cultivars of Cordyline australis have been produced in a variety of colours and styles including the below commonly available types of Cordyline australis:

• Cordyline australis ‘Green Star’ – This beautiful dwarf Cordyline displays glossy green, strap-like foliage that weeps slightly as it matures. It can produce scented cream blooms above the foliage at times. Cordyline ‘Green Star’ is popularly used as an architectural plant.
• Cordyline australis ‘Red Sensation’ – Perhaps the most popular of the Cordyline. Cordyline ‘Red Sensation’ features bold earthy red shades and a formal upright growth habit. Robust and hardy. Wonderful in pots or for accent planting.
• Cordyline ‘Kaspar Green’ – Known for its broad lance shade green leaves and fragrant flower spikes. Cordyline ‘Kaspar Green’ is a stunning choice for Mediterranean and tropical gardens. Cordyline ‘Kaspar Green’ is equipped with a round branching habit forming more compact and dense foliage.
• Cordyline australis ‘Red Star’ – Cordyline ‘Red Star’ is an attractive species of Cordyline that forms a single trunk and long broad foliage coloured red to burgundy. It is not noted for its flowers but creamy white panicles form on older trees that later produce berries.
• Cordyline australis ‘Albertii’ – Cordyline ‘Albertii’ is remarkable with a head of sword shaped green leaves that have a cream variegation with pale red toward the trunk, it isn’t a new plant but has been quite rare to find. This plant will add the wow factor to your garden, it’s classy and stylish!
• Cordyline australis ‘Sundance’ – Cordyline ‘Sundance’ provides an excellent green and red accent colour in your garden all year long. Sundance has an upright habit, strappy foliage and develops a trunk over time. It produces large panicles of small, sweet-scented flowers in late spring to summer.
• Cordyline australis ‘Sunrise’ – Cordyline ‘Sunrise’ is a stand out plant in any landscape. It has vivid pink and maroon foliage and is far more heat tolerant than other pink Cordylines. It takes some time to form a small tree, and if you desire a plant without a trunk you can be cut back and it will re-shoot well from a lower point.
• Cordyline australis ‘Sunset’ – Cordyline ‘Sunset’ is an attractive strappy leaved perennial, with red and green variegated foliage on an upright slender central stem. A very hardy, it is popular choice for coastal locations. Its broad upright leaves contrast magnificently with the horizontal lines of hedges, and against light coloured rendered surfaces.
• Cordyline australis ‘Cabernet’ – Cordyline ‘Cabernett’ is a stunning new architectural plant. It is mainly multi stemmed. It features wonderful foliage coloured just like a Cabernet red wine. This foliage is sword shaped and can reach lengths of 1.5 metres. After time, in summer, Cabernett blooms with white to cream flowers.
• Cordyline australis ‘Peko’ – Cordyline ‘Peko’ is an elegant plant that produces year round displays of striking lime green strappy leaves creating a stunning feature and contrast to any garden. It produces a bright pink strip on the foliage which runs on the underside of the leaf, further adding to the plants beautiful display. Cordyline australis ‘Peko’ is ideal for planting near pools, in pots or garden beds and also perfect for a feature plant.
• Cordyline australis ‘Purpurea’ – Cordyline ‘Purpurea’is a single trunk, slender, evergreen tree with a palm-like appearance. Native to New Zealand, this Cordyline will slowly grow to a height of 10m. Each branch has a cluster of purple brown sword-like leaves that do not have sharp terminal spines. In spring, panicles of small creamy-white flowers are produced followed by small purple berries. Very hardy, which makes it a popular choice in coastal zones.
• Cordyline australis ‘Black Knight’ – Cordyline ‘Black Knight is a deep purple cordyline with strappy leaves make for a dramatic accent plant. It’s tough and hardy despite its good looks. Striking against silver leafed foliage or as an eye-catching mass planting.
• Cordyline australis ‘Torbay Dazzler’ – Cordyline ‘Torbay Dazzler’ has striking green and cream striped pointed leaves and an upright habit. Compared to other Cordyline australis varieties it is one of the lightest and brightest in colour. It is therefore well-suited to situations that require a light contrast against darker garden backgrounds or dark building colours.
• Cordyline australis ‘Kirkii’ – Cordyline ‘Kirkii’ is a medium strappy leafed plant with green leaves. Suitable modern themed gardens. Plant in a full sun well drained position. It will tolerate some dryness.
• Cordyline australis ‘Paradise dream’ – Cordyline ‘Paradise Dream’ has an upright growth habit. The strappy leaves are dull green and pink. In late spring and summer it displays panicles of starry, white flowers. It prefers moist, well drained soil in a sunny to partly shaded position. It is tolerant of drought, strong winds and coastal conditions.

How to plant cordyline australis

Growing cordyline australis at home in the garden is pretty straightforward.

1. Dig the planting in a full-sun to part shade location with well draining soil.
2. The hole should be twice as wide and to the same depth as the root-ball. Remove the plant from the container, gently tease the roots and cut away any circled or tangled roots.
3. Position in hole and back-fill with soil, gently firming down. Form a raised or doughnut shaped ring of soil around the outer edge of the plant’s root zone. This helps keep water at the base of the plant. Always water in well after planting to settle the soil around the roots and keep the soil moist for several weeks while the new plant establishes.
4. Mulch around the base with organic mulch like wood chips, keeping it from touching the trunk.
5. Water deeply, once or twice a week, depending on weather conditions.
6. Feed in Autumn and Spring with a controlled-release fertiliser to promote strong root development, healthy colourful foliage and flowers.

How to grow cordyline australis in pots

You don’t need a large space to have your very own cordyline australis plant. Growing cordyline australis in pots is easy, fun and rewarding! In general growing cordyline australis in pots is a great idea. Below are the steps on how to how to grow cordyline australis in a pot;

1. Pick a variety that can be grown in a pot. Choose a pot at least 50 cm wide and deep. Position your pot in full sun to part shade location.
2. Fill chosen pot with premium potting mix. Remove the shrub from the container, gently tease the roots and cut away any circled or tangled roots.
3. Position in hole in centre of pot and back-fill with potting mix, gently firming down. Water in well.
4. Water deeply, once or twice a week, depending on weather conditions.
5. Feed in Autumn and Spring with controlled-release fertilise to promote strong root development, healthy colourful foliage and flowers.

How to propagate cordyline australis plants

You can propagate bird of cordyline australis from cuttings, simply follow these easy steps:

Ideally spring is the best time to prune and take cuttings from your cordyline australis . You will need clean, sharp shears or secateurs to prune your plant.

Cuttings are best taken from mature wood. After you take the cutting, remove the lower leaves leaving a few leaves at the top. This will reduce moisture loss from the plant while it is growing new roots. Allow the cutting to dry out for a couple of days in a dry shady spot before potting up. Use a high quality potting mix with dynamic lifter.

This will allow the roots to establish easily. In spring the cuttings will develop roots in about 4-5 weeks. You will need to stake the cuttings to prevent them from falling over as cordyline australis need protection from the wind. Once the cuttings have established a sufficient root ball, you can then plant them out in the spot where you choose.

How big do cordyline australis get?

A lot of people ask how tall do cordyline australis grow? The truth is the size of cordyline australis varies greatly but they can be known to to grow as tall as 20 metres high.

How much sunlight do cordyline australis need?

Cordyline australis fall into the category of warm and cool temperate cordylines. These are generally hybrids or varieties of Cordyline australis, the New Zealand cabbage palm, so are better suited to less tropical conditions. The general rule for Cordyline australis varieties is that they prefer full-sun to part shade.

Best fertiliser for cordyline australis

Cordyline australis are not a fussy plants Any fertiliser formulated for non-flowering plants will work. Organic fertilisers offer a gentler approach, while Inorganic provide high amounts of nitrogen, potassium and potash. A fertiliser with potash and iron will enhance the colours of the plant. You should fertilise every 6 months. To increase resistance to pests and disease, feeding with a good complete organic fertiliser in spring and autumn is a must.

When do cordyline australis bloom?

Cordyline australis flowers can be stunning. When they bloom depends a little on the hybrid however in majority of cases fragrant flowers may be seen in late spring to early summer..

Cordyline australis problems

Cordylines are a hardy plant in most cases but do get the odd problem, these include:

• Leaf spot – Leaf spot is a fungal disease. To treat, remove affected leaves and spray new leaves with copper fungicide.
• Aphids – A pyrethrum or a soap spray will kill these pests.
• Mealy bugs and scale – You can treat these with an oil-based spray.

Check out our other how to grow guides:

• Tropical garden plants for Perth
• Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees
• Cottonwood hibiscus trees

Viburnum odoratissimum, commonly called ‘sweet viburnum’, is a fast-growing evergreen shrub which is known for its powerful sweet fragrance. A low-maintenance plant, with it’s lush foliage and beautiful blooms a wonderful edition to any garden.

Viburnum odoratissimum is most commonly grown as a shrub, but it can also be grown as a free standing tree.

If you have ever wondered how to grow Viburnum odoratissimum then look no further. There are a few tricks to successfully growing Viburnum odoratissimum in Perth, Western Australia. Get these right and you will be laughing.

When to plant Viburnum odoratissimum

In general, it is best to plant the plant in the cooler months of the year, either in the spring or fall. This will give the plant time to become established before the hot summer weather arrives.

How much water do Viburnum odoratissimum need

Water the plant deeply once or twice a week, depending on the weather conditions and the condition of the soil. In hot, dry weather, the plant may need to be watered more frequently.

Check the soil moisture level regularly by sticking your finger about an inch into the soil. If the soil feels dry at that depth, it’s time to water the plant.

Avoid watering the plant from above, as this can lead to fungal diseases. Instead, water the plant at the base of the plant, near the roots.

If you are growing Viburnum odoratissimum in a pots, be sure to check the soil moisture level more frequently, as container plants dry out faster than plants in the ground.

How big can Viburnum odoratissimum grow?

The size of Viburnum odoratissimum will depend on a number of factors, including the plant’s age, the growing conditions, and the care it receives. In general, the plant can grow to be quite large, with mature plants reaching heights of up to 4.5 m and widths of up to 2.4 m. However, it is also possible to prune the plant to keep it smaller if desired.

How to prune Viburnum odoratissimum

Pruning Viburnum odoratissimum can help to maintain the plant’s shape and size, as well as promote healthy new growth. Here are some general guidelines for pruning Viburnum odoratissimum:

1. Prune the plant in the late winter or early spring, before new growth begins. This will allow you to easily see the plant’s structure and make any necessary cuts.
2. Remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches using clean, sharp pruning shears. Make the cuts just above a healthy bud or branch.
3. To maintain the plant’s shape, remove any branches that are growing out of bounds or crossing over each other.
4. If you want to reduce the size of the plant, cut back the branches by about one-third to one-half. This will encourage the plant to produce new, more compact growth.
5. Avoid pruning the plant too severely, as this can stress the plant and reduce its vigor.

How fast do Viburnum odoratissimum grow

Viburnum odoratissimum is known for its rapid growth rate, especially when it is grown in optimal conditions. The plant can grow up to 0.9 m per year, although its growth rate will depend on a number of factors, including the plant’s age, the growing conditions, and the care it receives. To encourage healthy growth, be sure to provide the plant with plenty of sunlight, well-draining soil, and regular watering and fertilisation.

How to grow Viburnum odoratissimum in a garden

To plant a Viburnum odoratissimum in the garden simply follow these steps:

1. Choose a sunny spot with well drained soil. Enrich the soil with a quality Dynamic Lifter and Soil Improver.
2. Dig the planting hole twice as wide and to the same depth as the root-ball. Remove the shrub from the container, gently tease the roots and cut away any circled or tangled roots.
3. Position in hole and back-fill with potting mix, gently firming down. Form a raised or doughnut shaped ring of soil around the outer edge of the plant’s root zone. This helps keep water where it’s needed. Always water in well after planting to settle the soil around the roots and keep the soil moist for several weeks while the new plant establishes.
4. Mulch around the base with organic mulch like bark chips, keeping them away from touching the trunk.
5. Water deeply, once or twice a week, depending on weather conditions.
6. Feed in Autumn and Spring with Dynamic Lifter and Soil Improver to promote strong root development, healthy foliage and flower growth.

How to grow Viburnum odoratissimum in a pot

Growing Viburnum odoratissimum in pots is a great idea if you want to grow a relatively small Viburnum odoratissimum. I love to grow Viburnum in pots because it gives you the flexibility to move them around the backyard to get the sun required.

1. Pick a variety that can be grown in a pot. Choose a pot at least 50 cm wide and deep. Position in full sun.
2. Fill chosen pot with quality potting mix.
3. Remove the shrub from the container, gently tease out the roots.
4. Position in hole and back-fill with potting mix, gently firming down. Water in well.
5. Water deeply, once or twice a week, depending on weather conditions.
6. Feed in Autumn and Spring with Dynamic Lifter and Soil Improver to promote strong root development, healthy foliage and lots of flowers.

How to propagate Viburnum odoratissimum

There are a few different methods you can try to propagate Viburnum odoratissimum:

Stem cuttings: One of the easiest and most common ways to propagate Viburnum odoratissimum is by taking stem cuttings. To do this, follow these steps:

1. Select a healthy, non-flowering stem that is about 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) long.
2. Cut the stem just below a leaf node (the point where the leaf attaches to the stem).
3. Remove the lower leaves from the stem, leaving just a few at the top.
4. Dip the cut end of the stem into rooting hormone, if desired. This can help to promote root formation.
5. Fill a small pot with a well-draining rooting medium, such as a mixture of peat moss and perlite.
6. Plant the stem cutting about an inch deep in the rooting medium, making sure to firm the soil around it.
7. Water the cutting well and place it in a warm, well-lit location out of direct sunlight.
8. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not waterlogged. The cutting should root in 4-6 weeks.

Seeds: Viburnum odoratissimum can also be propagated from seeds, although this method is more challenging and may not produce plants that are true to the parent plant. To propagate Viburnum from seeds, follow these steps:

1. Collect seeds from the plant when they are ripe, typically in the fall.
2. Clean the seeds by removing any debris or pulp.
3. Stratify the seeds by placing them in a damp paper towel and storing them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for 3-4 months. This simulates the natural cold stratification process that the seeds would experience in the wild.
4. After stratification, sow the seeds in a well-draining seed starting mix. Cover the seeds lightly with soil and water them well.
5. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, and place the seeds in a warm, well-lit location.
6. The seeds should germinate in 4-8 weeks. Once the seedlings have reached a few inches in height, transplant them into individual pots or the garden.

How to transplant a Viburnum odoratissimum

Autumn is the best time for transplanting evergreen shrubs like Viburnum. The heat is a lot more forgiving in Autumn and the soil is still warm enough to encourage the roots to grow once you have transplanted your plant.

The first thing you must do is look and see how wide your plants canopy is. This enable you to determine how big your root ball is. Once you know this you can carefully dig in and gently around the Viburnum plant in a circular fashion building off your root ball.

It is important to not try to lift your plant too early. Once it feels loose you’re ready to lift the plant up out of the ground taking care to maintain as much of the root ball as possible.

The new hole should be about the size of the root ball, it’s very important not to plant the plant too deeply, if it is too deep you might have troubles down the track. I recommend you fill in around the plant with the soil that you dug out rather than new soil. Firm the top soil so you have good soil to root contact. Make a small raised donut around your plant to all water to reach the base of the plant. Water it in and then your Viburnum odoratissimum is ready to thrive in its new location.

How to fertilise Viburnum odoratissimum

If you are wondering what to feed Viburnum odoratissimum? I recommend to fertilise your plant in Spring with a slow release fertiliser. Its best for plants to have mulch applied also to help retain moisture in the soil. If your plant already has a base of mulch temporarily removed it to apply the fertiliser and replace once done. I like to water it well after fertilising but be sure to check the direction on the fertiliser you select also.

Viburnum odoratissimum common pests

Thrips and spider mites are key pests to keep an eye out for when it come to Viburnum. If you see your plants foliage starting to turn silver then look for these pests under the leaves and use an appropriate insecticide to control them.

Check out our other how to grow guides:

• Best full sun plants for Perth
• Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees
• Australian hedging plants

It is easy to grow, hardy, and architecturally dramatic with some of the most stunning and unusual looking flowers you will come across. If you are after a plant that give you the most amazing results even if it’s all but neglected? Then the bird of paradise is the plant for you! Once established it will happily flower away with very little attention and care.

Birds of Paradise look great planted in a tropical style gardens, poolside, grassy borders or as a feature plant.

When to plant Bird of Paradise

If you have an established bird of paradise plant or a division from friends or family, the best time to plant is in spring or early summer. Plant your Bird of paradise in a full sun location which has well-draining organic soil. Amend the soil with compost when planting to get it off to a strong start.

When planting in pots, use a well-drained potting soil and add compost to the mix to improve the soil fertility. Place pots in a full sun, warm location from spring until fall and then in a greenhouse if you have one for winter months. If you don’t have a greenhouse inside the house next to a window which receives good light is another option. Bird of paradise plants like high humidity so group houseplants together and place them on pebble trays filled with water to increase the humidity in winter.

How to plant Bird of Paradise

Growing Bird of Paradise at home in the garden is pretty straightforward.

1. Choose a full sun to partly shaded spot with well drained soil. Enrich the soil with a quality Dynamic Lifter Soil Improver.
2. Dig a planting hole twice as wide and to the same depth as the root-ball. Remove the plant from the pot, tease out the roots and cut away any tangled roots.
3. Place the bird of paradise in hole and back-fill with soil, gently firming down the soil afterwards. Water in well after planting to settle the soil around the roots and keep the soil moist for several weeks while the new plant establishes
4. Mulch with an organic mulch, such as bark chips or pea straw ensuring to keep it away from touching the base of the plant.
5. Feed with a Dynamic Lifter Soil Improver and Plant Fertiliser every 8 weeks from spring until mid autumn.

How to grow Bird of Paradise in pots

You don’t need a large space to have your very own bird of paradise plant in Australia. Growing bird of paradise in pots is easy, fun and rewarding! In general growing bird of paradise in pots is a great idea. Below are the steps on how to how to grow bird of paradise in a pot;

1. Choose a pot at least 40 cm – 60 cm wide (or larger, depending on the size of your bird of paradise). Position in sunny location.
2. Fill with quality potting mix for plants.
3. Remove the plant from the container, tease the roots and cut away any tangled roots.
4. Place the bird of paradise in new pot and back-fill with soil, gently firming down the soil afterwards. Water in well.
5. Help protect your plants against fungus gnats by applying a layer of Gnat Barrier to the top of the soil in the pot. You can find Gnat Barrier at your local nursery or gardening supplier.
6. Water when the potting mix feels dry to the touch. Gently dig around in the top few centimetres of potting mix. If potting mix sticks to your finger and feels moist, watering is not required yet. If it feels dry, it’s time to re-water. A plant thermometer is a good way to keen an eye on it also.
7. Feed the plant fortnightly during spring and summer with a liquid plant food suitable for indoor plants.

How to propagate Bird of Paradise plants

You can propagate bird of paradise plants from cuttings, simply follow these easy steps:

1. First, gather some stem cuttings from an existing Bird of Paradise plant. Look for stems that are at least a few inches long and don’t have any flowers or buds on them.
2. Next, cut the stem into sections that are about 6 inches long. Each section should have at least one leaf and one node (a bump on the stem where a leaf or flower bud grows).
3. Once you have your cuttings, fill a small pot with a well-draining soil mix. Water the soil well and let it drain.
4. Dip the end of each cutting into rooting hormone. This will help the cutting grow roots more quickly.
5. Plant the cuttings in the soil mix, making sure that the leaf and node are above the soil line. Water the soil again, then cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to create a humid environment.
6. Place the pot in a warm location with bright, indirect light. Water the soil as needed to keep it moist, but be careful not to over-water.
7. After a few weeks, the cuttings should start to grow roots. Once the roots are a few inches long, you can transplant the cuttings into larger pots or into the ground in a sunny location.

It’s important to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, as too much moisture can cause the cuttings to rot. Be patient, as it can take several weeks or even a few months for the cuttings to grow roots and become established.

How long do Bird of Paradise take to grow

Bird of Paradise plants can take several years to reach their full size and start blooming. When grown from seed, it can take up to 5 years for a Bird of Paradise plant to produce its first flowers. If you propagate Bird of Paradise plants from stem cuttings, it will still take several months for the cuttings to grow roots and become established.

Once established, Bird of Paradise plants can grow quite quickly, especially in warm, sunny conditions. In optimal conditions, a Bird of Paradise plant can grow around 90 cm per year. However, the rate of growth will depend on factors such as the plant’s age, the climate and growing conditions, and the type of soil it is grown in.

Overall, it’s important to be patient when growing Bird of Paradise plants, as they take some time to reach their full potential. With proper care, however, they can become a beautiful and long-lasting addition to your garden

How big do Bird of Paradise get

A lot of people ask how tall does bird of paradise grow? The truth is Bird of Paradise plants can grow quite large, depending on the species and the growing conditions. Some species of Bird of Paradise can reach heights of up to 3 meters or more, while others are smaller and more compact.

In general, Bird of Paradise plants have a clumping growth habit and can spread up to 1.2 meters or 1.5 meters wide. The leaves of a Bird of Paradise plant can grow up to 0.9 meters or 1.2 meters long and are dark green in color.

The size of a Bird of Paradise plant will depend on factors such as the plant’s age, the type of soil it is grown in, and the climate it is grown in. In general, Bird of Paradise plants prefer warm, sunny conditions and well-draining soil. With proper care, they can grow to be quite large.

How much sunlight do Bird of Paradise need

Bird of Paradise plants prefer bright, indirect light and can tolerate full sun, but they will do best in a location that receives morning sun and afternoon shade. Too much direct sun can cause the leaves to yellow or scorch, especially in hot, dry climates.

In general, Bird of Paradise plants prefer warm, sunny conditions and will thrive in a location that receives at least 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. However, it’s important to protect the plants from intense midday sun, especially in hot climates.

In areas with cooler climates, Bird of Paradise plants may benefit from a bit more sun to help them grow and thrive. In these cases, it’s best to place the plants in a location that receives full sun for at least part of the day.

Overall, the amount of sunlight that a Bird of Paradise plant needs will depend on the specific climate and growing conditions, as well as the age and size of the plant.

Best fertiliser for Bird of Paradise

There are a couple of options when it comes to ferteliser. At a minimum it is reccomended annual application of controlled-release fertiliser.

Feed with a diluted liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the April and November blooming season. Alternatively, if outdoors you can cover the soil with a layer of organic compost approximately 3 cm thick. Place the compost into the top layer of soil, then water thoroughly!

When do Bird of Paradise bloom

Birds of paradise flowers typical appear between April and November, however plants typically do not bloom until they are around 4 to 5 years old.

When to prune Bird of Paradise

Wondering how to prune a bird of paradise? Bird of paradise can be trimmed at any point, but serious pruning should wait until early spring. You should look to remove old plant matter, thin the leaves, and take out damaged stems.

Using a pair of sharp loppers or hand pruners take all leaves and stems back to just above the ground. Remove dead flowers to the base of the plant and clean up any dead or dying leaves and stems in or around the plant.

Are birds of paradise poisonous?

The Bird of Paradise plant is poisonous to cats and dogs if eaten, so if your pet has a habit of chewing on your plants it would be advised to avoid planting.

Companion plants for Bird of Paradise

Bird of paradise plants make a statement, so should be positioned where their vibrant flowers can be featured prominently in the garden. They also work well with plants such as, cycads, daylily, kangaroo paw, sago palm and succulents.

Bird of Paradise common problems

• Leaves Splitting – Some people worry that the splits in the leaves of the Bird of Paradise are a sign of something wrong, but in reality split leaves in this plant are completely normal. The splits are there by design and allow wind to pass through the leaves without bending or breaking the plant. While it is less common to see splitting with birds of paradise grown indoors, it is still completely normal for this to occur.
• Brown Edges (Under-watering) – Crispy, brown edges, can be a sign that you are under-watering your bird of paradise or the environment is too dry. This plant likes a lot of humidity — do not place this plant near the vents of an airconditioning unit which is blowing hot dry air. Ensure regular watering, and also add misting to your routine to boost humidity levels for the plant’s foliage (even if it is just a couple times a week!).
• Yellow Leaves (Over-watering) – Yellowing wilted leaves, can be that your plant is over-watered. Check the roots to make sure there is no root rot. If the roots are damaged, you will need to re-pot your birds of paradise plant. If the roots are fine, simply let the plant dry out before watering again.
• Curling leaves – Inward curling leaves are most often the result of under-watering. Give it a thorough watering, but ensuring that you have adequate drainage to minimise the chance of root rot.

Check out our other how to grow guides:

• Tropical garden plants for Perth
• Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees
• Poinciana trees
• Kurrajong trees

If you have ever wondered how to grow Chinese hibiscus in Perth then look no further. Chinese Hibiscus is a relatively easy tree to grow, however can be a somewhat high-maintenance plant, in my opinion they are well worth the effort. The below write-up attempts to summarise everything you will need to know.

When to plant Chinese Hibiscus trees:

Chinese Hibiscus can be planted most months of the year, but it’s best to plant Chinese Hibiscus during autumn. This will allow your plant time to establish roots before winter.

How much water do Chinese Hibiscus trees need:

To ensure the best care for your hibiscus plant, keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Water daily during the first week after planting, then, reduce frequency to every other day in the second week. In general, aim to water the hibiscus twice a week, unless there is no rain or the weather is particularly hot and dry, in which case you may need to water every other day. By maintaining the right balance of moisture in the soil, your hibiscus will thrive.

How big can Chinese Hibiscus grow?

Chinese hibiscus can grow to be quite large, with some varieties reaching heights of up to 4.5 m and widths of 3 m. However, it is more common for Chinese hibiscus to reach a height of 2-2.5 m and a width of 1.2-1.8 m. The size of your plant will depend on various factors such as the growing conditions, the type of soil, and the amount of sunlight it receives. Chinese hibiscus is generally a fast-growing plant, so it can reach its full size within a few years if well cared for.

How to prune Chinese Hibiscus:

Pruning Chinese hibiscus can help to shape the plant, promote healthy growth, and encourage the production of flowers. Here are some general guidelines for pruning Chinese hibiscus:

1. Use sharp, clean pruning shears or scissors.
2. Prune away any dead or damaged branches, as well as any branches that are growing in an unwanted direction.
3. Thin out the plant by removing some of the older branches to allow light and air to reach the centre of the plant.
4. If you want to encourage new flowers, prune back the branches that have already bloomed. This will help to stimulate new growth and encourage the development of new flowers.
5. Avoid pruning more than 25% of the plant at one time, as this can stress the plant and slow its growth.
6. After pruning, water the plant well to help it recover from the pruning process.

Prune the plant in a way that preserve its natural shape and balance, and try to avoid over pruning.

How fast do Chinese Hibiscus grow:

Chinese hibiscus is a relatively fast-growing plant that can quickly reach its full size under the right growing conditions. In general, Chinese hibiscus plants can grow up to 1-1.2 m per year, although this will depend on factors such as the type of soil, the amount of sunlight and water it receives, and the overall health of the plant. If you provide your Chinese hibiscus with well-draining soil, plenty of sunlight, and regular watering, it should grow at a steady rate and reach its full size within a few years. It’s important to keep in mind that Chinese hibiscus is a tropical plant and will not tolerate frost, so it’s best to plant it in a warm, sheltered location where it can receive plenty of sunlight.

How to Chinese Hibiscus at home:

To plant a Chinese Hibiscus tree in the garden simply follow these steps:

1. Choose a spot in the garden that receives full sun or part shade (depending on species). Enrich the well draining soil with a quality soil improver. If your soil is clay based, add gypsum and fork in well.
2. Dig the planting hole twice as wide and to the same depth as the root-ball. Remove the shrub from the container. Gently tease the plants roots. Position the plant in the hole and back-fill with soil, gently firming down.
3. Form a raised or doughnut shaped ring of soil around the outer edge of the plant’s root zone. This helps keep water where it’s needed. Always water in well after planting to settle the soil around the roots.
4. Mulch the base of your plant using wood chips (or similar). Keep the wood chips from direct contact with the trunk to avoid the spread of diseases.
5. Water deeply, one to two times a week, depending on weather conditions.
6. Feed every 6-8 weeks from spring to mid autumn with a soil improver and dynamic lifter and weekly with a liquid plant food for flowers.

How to grow Chinese Hibiscus trees in pots:

Growing Chinese Hibiscus trees in pots is a great idea if you want to grow a relatively small Chinese Hibiscus tree. I love to grow Chinese Hibiscus trees in pots because it gives you the flexibility to move them around the backyard to get the sun required.

1. Choose a pot at least 60 cm wide.
2. Place the pot in a full sun to part shade and fill with quality potting mix.
3. Remove the hibiscus from the pot and gently tease out the roots.
4. Position in hole and backfill with potting mix, gently firm down the topsoil. Water in well.
5. Once planted, keep the plant well watered, but don’t let the water sit in a saucer at the base of the pot.
6. Feed weekly with liquid plant food for flowers during the spring.

How to propagate Chinese Hibiscus trees:

here are several ways to propagate Chinese hibiscus. Here are three common methods:

Cuttings: This is the most common and probably easiest method for propagating hibiscus. Take a cutting from a healthy stem that is about 10 – 15 cm long. Remove the leaves from the lower half of the cutting and dip the cut end in rooting hormone help increase the likelihood of success. Plant the cutting in a well-draining seed raising mixture, water it, and keep it moist. Place the cutting in a warm location like a window with bright, indirect light.

Air layering: This involves rooting a stem while it is still attached to the parent plant and is a more advanced method. Choose a stem that is at least 1 year old and has healthy, mature leaves. Make a slanted cut through the bark on the stem and coat the cut with rooting hormone. Cover the cut with moist sphagnum moss, and wrap the moss in plastic wrap to keep it moist. When the roots are 1-2 inches long, cut the stem below the rooted section and plant it in soil.

Seeds: Propagating hibiscus from seeds can challenging. Start by soaking the seeds in water for 24 hours to soften the seed coat. Then, plant the seeds seed raising mixture and keep the soil moist. Place the seeds in a warm location with bright, indirect light and cover them with a plastic dome to create a greenhouse effect. When the seedlings are large enough to handle being moved, transplant them into individual pots.
Regardless of which method you choose, it’s important to keep the soil moist and the plant in a warm location with bright, indirect light until it is established as hibiscus like the tropical warm conditions.

How to transplant a Chinese Hibiscus:

Sometime your hibiscus will outgrow its current home. This might lead you to want to transplant your hibiscus to a different spot.

Thankfully the process is pretty straightforward. First take a look and see how wide your plants canopy is. This is a good way to try to determine how big your root ball is. Carefully dig gently around the hibiscus plant in a circular fashion building off your root ball.

Don’t try to lift your plant too early. Once it feels loose you’re ready to lift the plant up out of the ground. It is important to be careful to maintain as much of the root ball as possible.

Make sure the new planting hole is about the size of the root ball, it’s important not to plant the plant too deeply, if it is too deep you can have troubles later on. It is also best to fill in with the soil that you dug out of the original hole rather than fresh soil. Water it in and then your Chinese Hibiscus is ready to thrive in its new location.

How to fertilise Chinese Hibiscus trees:

Hibiscuses like to be planted into fertile, slightly acid, well-draining soil. Heavy clay or light sandy soils will need to be improved with compost and animal manures. When planting a new hibiscus I recommend adding a soil improver regardless of the soil conditions to give your soil a boost and kick start your plants growth.

The key to healthy hibiscus is to mulch generously and water regularly. Chinese Hibiscuses are thirsty plants, and require a deep watering once a week. Conserve the moisture by covering their roots with a thick layer of mulch (but avoid contact with the trunk of the plant).

Well-maintained hibiscus plants produce a large volume of flowers over many months of the year. To promote healthy growth and blooms fertilise about once a month with a liquid plant food, which is suitable for hibiscus (there are some brands specifically for hibiscus available). Move the mulch around each plant to lightly pour the liquid fertiliser evenly on the soil beneath the plant, water well in, and replace the mulch once done.

Chinese Hibiscus common pests:

Hibiscus beetle causing holes in flowers can damage hibiscuses. Metallic flea beetle can cause holes in leaves and aphids can damage the buds and new shoots.
However, many people prefer to put up with a little damage rather than using pesticides.

Is Chinese Hibiscus poisonous?

No, It’s completely safe. No part of the Chinese Hibiscus plant is poisonous to humans, so it is safe to have the plant around children, toddlers, and babies. This is not to be mistake with the Norfolk Island Hibiscus which can cause skin irritations.

Check out our other how to grow guides:

• Cottonwood Hibiscus trees
• Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees
• Poinciana trees
• Kurrajong trees

It has attractive pink to mauve flowers in spring and early summer. It is a plant that copes with exposure to salty sea winds, making it suitable for coastal areas.

Unfortunately, there are a few negatives to Norfolk Island Hibiscus. The tree’s seeds are poisonous if eaten and touching the plant might cause an allergic reaction or skin irritation. The seedpods contain very irritant hairs, and they are often referred to as the ‘itchy bomb tree’ as a result! Once the pods open the irritant hairs are released and blown on the wind, and often cause complaints. As a result some local government areas in Western Australia they are actively removing them from street verges.

If you have ever wondered how to grow Norfolk Island Hibiscus in Perth then look no further. Norfolk Island Hibiscus is a relatively easy tree to grow, however there are a few pros and cons to growing Norfolk Island Hibiscus. So it’s important to weigh these up prior to planting.

When to plant Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees:

Norfolk Island Hibiscus can be planted most months of the year, but it’s best to plant Norfolk Island Hibiscus during autumn. This will allow your plant time to establish roots before winter.

How much water do Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees need:

In the warmer parts of Australia recommend watering Norfolk Island Hibiscus deeply, one to two times a week, depending on weather conditions. It will perform best in well draining sandy coastal soil.

How big can Norfolk Island Hibiscus grow?

Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees can reach a height of 10 – 20m. Typically they have a width of 5 – 7m. It is suggested that Norfolk Island Hibiscus can grow to be over 50 years old.

How to prune Norfolk Island Hibiscus:

If you’re tree has pods on it I always recommend wearing gloves to avoid the itch. To control the shape of your tree it is best to prune suckers soon as they appear, make sure you use a very sharp pair of secateurs and cut as close to the trunk as possible. It is best to remove the suckers whilst the stems are still green. Allowing them to become woody removal will tend to encourage more suckers to grow. In general trees will send out suckers when they are under stress, this can occur as a tree reaches the end of life, change in conditions or pests or disease.

How fast do Norfolk Island Hibiscus grow:

Norfolk Island Hibiscus is a relatively slow growing tree, however it can eventually reach heights of approximately 20m. It is worth noting that it doesn’t flower until its 3rd year, and then prolifically every spring.

How to Norfolk Island Hibiscus at home:

If you are wondering how to plant a Norfolk Island Hibiscus tree in the garden then look no further. Growing Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees has become a bit less popular due to aforementioned itchy partials it releases from its seeds. However if this doesn’t put you off the flowers are quiet pretty.

• Choose a spot in the garden that receives full sun or part shade. Enrich the well-drained soil with a high quality potting mix or soil improver. If your soil is clay based, add gypsum and fork in well.
• Dig the planting hole twice as wide and to the same depth as the root-ball. Remove the hibiscus shrub from the pot, gently tease out the plants roots. Position in hole and backfill with soil, gently firming down the topsoil.
• Form a raised or doughnut shaped ring of soil around the outer edge of the plant’s root zone. This helps keep water where it’s needed at the base of the tree. Always water in well after planting to settle the soil around the roots.
• Mulch around the base with organic mulch like bark chips, keeping it away from the trunk to avoid the risk of any diseases.
• Water deeply, one to two times a week, depending on weather conditions.
• Feed every 6 – 8 weeks from spring to mid autumn with a Dynamic Lifter Soil Improver Plant Fertiliser and weekly with liquid plant food for flowers.

How to grow Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees in pots:

Growing Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees in pots is a great idea if you want to grow a relatively small Norfolk Island Hibiscus tree. I love to grow Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees in pots because it gives you the flexibility to move them around the yard, which can be handy if you have children or pets, and want to be able to move it to avoid contact with the pods.

• Choose a pot at least 60cm wide.
• Place the pot in a full sun to part shade and fill with quality potting mix.
• Remove the hibiscus from the pot, gently tease out the roots.
• Position in hole and backfill with potting mix, gently firm down the topsoil. Water in well.
• Once planted, keep the plant well watered, but don’t let the water sit in a saucer at the base of the pot.
• Feed weekly with liquid plant food for flowers during the spring.

How to propagate Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees:

The best time to propagate cotton hibiscus is in early spring or with temperature of 20-26C and better before the plant start to grow after the dormant period over winter.

The most common method of propagation is by seed. No special pretreatment is needed but care needs to be taken in removing seed from the pods so that the irritant hairs do not contact your skin.

Propagating Norfolk Island Hibiscus by cutting is also an option if you have a friend with a tree.

Choose stems that not going to bloom, cut a stem around 20-30cm in length. Plant your cuttings in a high quality potting mix with moist peat soil. Dipping the end in some root hormone will help the root growth. If you have a greenhouse then I recommend to use green house or a makeshift version plastic box with holes it. It should take 3-4 weeks for you cutting to start to grow. Once it has established fro 3-4 months you can then transplant to the desired location or to a new pot.

How to transplant a Norfolk Island Hibiscus:

Sometime your hibiscus will outgrow its current home. Many people look to move these trees due to their itchy nature. Whether it is for this reason or other reasons might lead you to want to transplant your hibiscus to a different spot.

Happily the process is pretty easy. First take a look and see how wide your plants canopy is. This is a good way to try to determine how big your root ball is. Carefully dig in and gently around the hibiscus plant in a circular fashion building off your root ball.

It is important to not try to lift your plant too early. Once it feels loose you’re ready to lift the plant up out of the ground. It is important to be careful to maintain as much of the root ball as possible.

Make sure your new hole is about the size of the root ball, it’s very important not to plant the plant too deeply, if it is too deep it can have troubles later on. It is also best to fill in with the soil that you dug out of the hole a lot of people want to fill in with new fresh soil but your plant will perform better with the existing soil which was around it. Firm the soil so you have good soil to root contact. Water it in and then your Norfolk Island Hibiscus is ready to thrive in its new location.

How to fertilise Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees:

Fertilise with hibiscus fertiliser or use a complete organic fertiliser. Look for one that’s fairly high in nitrogen and potassium and follow the directions on the bag.

When do Norfolk Island Hibiscus trees bloom:

A common question a lot of first time planters will ask is when does a Norfolk Island Hibiscus tree flower? The Norfolk Island Hibiscus, typically flowers prolifically during the springtime, however in some regions this will extended into early summer. The flowers are generally a pink to mauve but deeper coloured forms are in cultivation.

How to care for Norfolk Island Hibiscus:

As previously mentioned Norfolk Island Hibiscus is hardy and will grow across a wide variety of climates and soils, from tropical to temperate. There are really only three things required to care for Norfolk Island Hibiscus. First mulch and water well, second prune after flowering (noting this will stimulate fresh growth) and lastly fertilise in spring. Do these three things and your Norfolk Island Hibiscus should thrive.

Is Norfolk Island Hibiscus poisonous?

Yes, the mature trees will produce seedpods that contain orange seeds that have fine hairs that can be a skin irritant and are toxic to both humans and animals. It’s important to keep a close eye on children when playing near a tree, and if handling the pods it is recommended to wear gloves.

Check out our other how to grow guides:

• Cottonwood Hibiscus trees
• Chinese Hibiscus trees
• Poinciana trees
• Kurrajong trees

Ground cover plants are often used in areas where grass is difficult to grow, such as on slopes, in dry or shady areas, or in areas with poor soil. They can also be used to fill in gaps between other plants or to create a border or edge. There are many different types of ground cover plants, including annuals, perennials, and shrubs, and they can be chosen for their foliage, flowers, or other ornamental features.

Here are some popular ground cover plants for Western Australian gardens:

Ground cover plants for Australian gardens:

• Liriope (Liriope muscari) – A hardy, evergreen ground cover with grass-like leaves and purple flowers that bloom in summer.
• Blue Flax-Lily (Dianella caerulea) – A low-growing, evergreen ground cover with blue flowers that bloom in spring and summer.
• Kidney Weed (Dichondra repens) – A low-growing, evergreen ground cover with round, kidney-shaped leaves and small white flowers that bloom in spring and summer.
• Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata) – An evergreen ground cover, which is low-growing with fragrant, star-shaped flowers that bloom in spring and summer.
• Mexican Fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus) – A low-growing, annual ground cover with daisy-like flowers that bloom in spring and summer.
• Viper’s bugloss (Echium plantagineum) – A fast-growing, annual ground cover that is native to Europe. It has hairy leaves and blue or purple flowers that bloom in spring and summer.
• Yellow buttons (Chrysocephalum apiculatum) – A low-growing, evergreen ground cover that is native to Australia. It has small, narrow leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in spring and summer. This plant is drought-tolerant and grows well in well-drained soil. It is suitable for growing in full sun and is often used as a ground cover in sunny areas or as a border plant.
• Lobelia (Lobelia erinus) – A low-growing, annual ground cover that is native to South Africa. It has small, delicate leaves and blue or purple flowers that bloom in spring and summer.
• African daisy (Osteospermum hybrid) – A fast-growing, annual ground cover that is native to South Africa. It has small, hairy leaves and daisy-like flowers that bloom in a range of colors, including white, pink, purple, and orange.
• Woodruff (Asperula purpurea) – A low-growing, evergreen ground cover that is native to Europe and Asia. It has small, oval-shaped leaves and white or pink flowers that bloom in spring and summer.
• Native violet (Viola hederacea) – A low-growing, perennial ground cover that is native to Australia. It has small, heart-shaped leaves and purple, white, or yellow flowers that bloom in spring and summer.

When choosing ground cover plants that are suitable for your specific location in the garden and soil type be sure to check the water and fertiliser requirements.

In tropical gardens, you can expect to see bright, colourful foliage and flowers set against cool, green foliage, with a range of bold shapes and textures adding interest.

In order to have a tropical garden in Perth you will need the right garden and soil preparation as a foundation.

You don’t need a big area to create a lush, colourful tropical garden, but selecting the right plants for the conditions is a must.

There are many tropical plants that can thrive in Perth’s Mediterranean climate. Here are a few plants which I believe are some of the best tropical plants for Perth gardens:

Cottonwood Hibiscus (Hibiscus acetosella):

This tropical plant has deep red or purple foliage and small, yellow flowers. It does well in full sun and needs well-draining soil.

Golden Cane Palm (Dypsis lutescens):

This tropical palm has thin, yellow-green leaves and is a popular choice for creating a tropical look in gardens. It does well in full sun and needs well-draining soil.

Frangipani (Plumeria spp.):

This fragrant plant produces clusters of small, star-shaped flowers in shades of white, yellow, pink, and red. It does well in full sun and needs well-draining soil.

Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae):

This striking plant has large, colourful flowers that resemble a bird’s head and beak. It does well in full sun and can tolerate some drought.

Cordyline (Cordyline australis):

This tall, upright plant has long, slender leaves that come in a range of colours, including green, red, and purple. It does well in partial shade and needs well-draining soil.

Philodendron (Philodendron spp.):

This tropical vine has large, glossy leaves and can be grown as a houseplant or in a garden. It does well in partial shade and needs well-draining soil.

Lilly Pilly (Syzygium australe):

This tropical shrub has glossy, dark green leaves and clusters of small, white flowers. It does well in partial shade and needs well-draining soil.

Banana trees:

This tropical fruit has glossy, large green leaves and clusters of bananas will add an attractive feature to the garden. It does well in warm, frost free and wind protected spaces, that preferably receive at least six hours of sunshine per day.

It’s important to note that these plants may require extra watering and care during Perth’s hot, dry summer months, and may need to be protected from extreme temperatures. It’s also a good idea to research the specific care requirements of any tropical plants you are considering before planting them in your garden. I always recommend checking with your local nursery for tropical plants that are well-suited to your specific growing conditions.

There are loads low-maintenance plants that are ideal for West Australian gardens which thrive in full sun areas of the garden. However, Australian native plants are the first thing I think of when it comes to choosing full sun plants in Perth.

Here are some of my favourite sun-loving, low-maintenance plants:

Big Red Kangaroo Paw (Anigozanthos):

Kangaroo paws love living in a sunny position but be sure that they are planted in a location which has good soil drainage.

Their lovely green foliage adds a little height and cover to bare areas and their delightful red flowers will brighten up your garden during spring and summer.

Kangaroo paws are a drought-resistant plant and require very little maintenance making them ideal for full sun locations.

Saltbush (Rhagodia spinescens):

This hardy shrub has a lovely silvery-gray foliage and is a very low-maintenance plant. Saltbush is perfect for coastal areas as the name suggests as it can handle salty sea spray making it ideal for Perth’s coastal suburbs.

Saltbush is relatively compact and grows to a height of around 1.5 metres but will spread nicely to cover an area of around 4 metres. This means it can be used for hedging. Pruning the tips of the saltbush will encourage bushier growth. It produces pretty little cream flowers in summer.

Geraldton Wax (Chamelaucium uncinatum):

Geraldton Wax is an attractive native Western Australian shrub. It is a favourite in native gardens, with its needle-like leaves and waxy pink or red flowers that appear from later Winter to Spring.

Geraldton Wax is well-suited to Australia’s dry gardens and landscapes and the plants cope well with irregular watering and low soil fertility.

‘Kings Park Special’ Bottlebrush (Callistemon):

‘Kings Park Special’ Bottlebrush is a relatively compact, free-flowering bottlebrush with bright red/pink flower heads.

‘Kings Park Special’ is on of the most beautiful bottlebrush, it is very hardy and will handle a range of soil types and positions. A good feature or screen plant, it can be pruned to shape or allowed to grow naturally into a small tree.

‘Kings Park Special’ Bottlebrush will thrive in a full sun location.

Coastal Rosemary (Westringia Fruticosa):

Westringia Fruticosa is a hardy, low-maintenance plant that grows happily in full sun. This particular hybrid has lovely white flowers that cover the entire plant in spring.

Coastal Rosemary thrive in a sunny, light shade location and are perfect for planting in a low maintenance gardens, poolside, or in a coastal garden, as they are drought resistant.

Kalbarri carpet (Eremophila glabra):

Kalbarri carpet or Tah bush or Emu bush as it is also know is an attractive native ground-cover with dense silvery-grey foliage and an abundance of yellow-gold contrasting flowers in spring and summer.

A native Western Australian plant mostly found in the semi arid areas of Western Australia, such as Kalbarri as the name suggests. It’s flowers are rich in nectar and attract honey eaters and other birds to the garden.

A versatile plant you can mass plant to create as the name implies as carpet like effect, use on banks and retaining walls, or plant in large containers and use around the garden as features.

Kalbarri carpet is perfect for full sun locations and is drought and frost tolerant.

Moonlight Grevillea (Grevillea):

Grevillea Moonlight is tough and adaptable and also flowers all year round.

‘Moonlight’ Grevillea make a great feature plant due to its flowers, but also makes an effective informal screen or hedge.

A fantastic grevillea choice, especially for warmer climates.

Birthday Candles Banksia (Banksia spinulosa):

This lovely little banksia only grows to a height of around 0.5 metres and is perfect for rockeries or other small sunny garden areas. It is native to Western Australia, which means it is well suited to our conditions.

It has wonderful looking flowers in autumn and winter that are golden-yellow in colour.

‘Birthday Candles’ Banksia are both drought and frost-tolerant, making them ideal for full sun planting. They will attract a variety of birds and butterflies to the garden.

These are just some of the wonderful full sun plants perfect for Perth gardens.

Growing grapes in the backyard is an awesome idea if you have the space! Grape vines are one of the best fruit trees to grow in Perth because of our Mediterranean conditions which allow them to thrive. Having a plentiful harvest of fresh home grown grapes is a massive treat.

If you have ever wondered how to grow grapes in Perth then look no further. Grapes can be a challenging plant to grow, but there are still a few tricks to successfully growing grapes in Perth, Western Australia. Get these right and you will be laughing.

When to plant grapes:

The best time to plant grapes is in spring. In spring you can avoid some of Perth’s very hot summer, plant in October or November so that your vines begin to establish before the heat arrives.

How to prune grape vines in Australia:

Pruning grapevines is simple. It is possible to prune all grapes the same way, both wine grapes and table grape varieties. Ideally the finished vine should look like a letter ‘T’. To do this follow these simple steps.

• Pick the three healthiest appearing canes on your vine and remove all other canes back to the ‘trunk’ of the vine.
• With the first of the three canes, count the spurs up to ten and prune the rest off.
• Tie the cane along the training wire.
• Do exactly the same with another cane, tying to the wire in the opposite direction. (The other cane is the fallback cane in case one of the canes snaps when it is tied to the wire).
• If both canes have been successfully pruned and tied to the training wires, then cut the spare cane off.

How often to water grapes in Perth:

In the Perth region, regular watering of vines is required from early November to late March in most seasons. Applying mulch will help retain moisture in the soil during summer months.

How big do grape vines grow:

Grape vines are long-lived in most cases, which require strong support structure to grow up and long. They can grow up to 4m tall and wide, so ensure you have plenty of room.

How to grow grapes:

Growing grapes in the backyard is really quiet simple.

1. Choose a full sun location with well-drained soil and a strong support structure, such as a trellis. Enrich the soil with a quality dynamic lifter and plant fertiliser. If the soil is clay based fork in some gypsum.
2. Dig the planting hole twice as wide and to the same depth as the root-ball. Remove the vine from the container, gently tease the roots and cut away any tangled roots.
3. Position your grape vine in the hole and back-fill with soil, gently firming down the top-soil. Form a raised or doughnut shaped ring of soil around the outer edge of the plant’s root zone. This helps keep water where it’s needed at the base of the vine. Always water in well after planting to settle the soil around the roots and keep the soil moist for several weeks while the new plant establishes itself.
4. Mulch around the base with organic mulch like straw or wood chips, keeping it away from touching the actual vine base.
5. Water deeply, once or twice a week, depending on weather conditions. While grapes are drought tolerant once established, they will benefit from regular watering during flowering and fruiting periods.
6. Ensure the vine is well watered during Perth’s hot spring and summer and feed every 6-8 weeks with a dynamic lifter to encourage healthy leaf and stem growth. Early training and regular pruning will help maximise your grape harvest.

How to grow grapes in pots:

Growing grapes in a pot is a great idea. This means you can grow your own grapes in almost any size garden or balcony. Grapes can be grown in large pots as long as there is a strong support structure, such as a fence that they can grow over.

1. Choose a pot at least 60cm wide. Position in full sun and partially fill with quality potting mix.
2. Remove the shrub from the container, gently tease the roots and cut away any tangled roots.
3. Position in pot and backfill with potting mix, gently firming down. Water in well.
4. Mulch around the base with organic mulch like bark chips, sugarcane or pea straw, keeping it away from the trunk.
5. Water deeply, once or twice a week, depending on weather conditions. While grapes are drought tolerant once established, they will benefit from regular watering during flowering and fruiting.
6. Ensure the vine is well watered during spring and summer and feed every 6-8 weeks with a dynamic lifer to encourage healthy leaf and stem growth.
7. Early training and regular pruning will help maximise the harvest of quality grapes as the vine focuses its efforts.

Can you grow grapes from cuttings?

Yes, grapes are one of the easiest plants to propagate, and they will easily root from either hardwood or softwood cuttings. All you need is a piece of grapevine, trimmed to include viable buds which is around 10 cm in length.

When to fertilise grapes in Perth:

Applying mulch will help retain moisture in the soil during the hot Perth summer months.
Mature grape vines require around 500g of NPK fertiliser with trace elements each season. This should be applied as a 350g dressing at the start of budburst and a 150g dressing four weeks after this.

Grape vine problems:

Powdery mildew, downy mildew and botrytis bunch rot are considered to be the top three disease concerns for West Australian vineyards. It’s important to get on top of these three problems as quickly as possible.

Check out our other how to grow in Perth guides:

• Growing lime trees
• Growing passionfruit
• Growing apricots

If you have ever wondered how to grow River Dog Rose then look no further. River Dog Rose are relatively straightforward to grow, but there are a few tricks to growing River Dog Rose in Australia. Get these right and you will be laughing.

How big can River Dog Rose grow?

Bauera rubiodes x sessiliflora River Dog Rose can grow to a height between 0.3 ~ 0.5 metres and grow to a width of 0.3 ~ 0.5 metres. Make sure that you have the right amount of space for your River Dog Rose in your chosen planting location.

What colour flowers do River Dog Rose have?

River Dog Rose have wonderful flowers which can be pink. River Dog Rose will flower during spring, summer, all year.

Where should you plant River Dog Rose?

River Dog Rose thrive in a light shade, half shade location and are perfect for planting in a low maintenance garden, courtyard, container growing, cottage garden, flower garden, coastal garden. They thrive in the following climate zones sub-tropical, warm temperate, cool temperate.

River Dog Rose can be planted in a variety of soil types such as clay, loamy, sandy loam, clay loam, potting mix. They can handle a variety of Ph level including acid, neutral. River Dog Rose likes it’s soil soil moisture levels to be moist moderate drainage, boggy poorly drained.”

Are River Dog Rose perennial?

Yes, River Dog Rose are perennial. A perennial plant is a plant that lives more than two years. The term is often used to differentiate a plant from shorter-lived annuals and biennials.

Are River Dog Rose frost tolerant?

Yes, River Dog Rose will tolerate light frost.

How to propagate River Dog Rose

The best way to propagate Bauera rubiodes x sessiliflora is by cutting.

What are River Dog Rose used for?

Bauera rubiodes x sessiliflora River Dog Rose can be used as a groundcover. Other special uses for River Dog Rose include being used bonsai, playground friendly. River Dog Rose are great at attracting wildlife such as bees, other insects.

Check out our other how to grow guides:

• Eriostemon australasius
• Persoonia pinifolia
• Callistemon phoeniceus