Anyone wanting to explore ‘the real Buenos Aires’ could easily spend a pleasant few hours wandering the streets of Almagro, an underrated middle-class neighborhood in the heart of the city.

Las Violetas Cafe

Almagro’s number one tourist attraction is the grand Las Violetas, a 125-year old confitería that instantly transports visitors to a more congenial time period.

Almagro has much more to offer than just afternoon tea.

San Carlos Church & Basilica

The San Carlos Cathedral

A short walk from Las Violetas is the imposing Romanaque revival style Inglesía y Basílica San Carlos Borromeo. Completed in 1878, is considered one of most beautiful churches in Buenos Aires.

While there, stroll Pasaje San Carlos, a charming 50-meter footpath alongside the cathedral.

Plaza Almagro  & Sunday Book Fair

From there, head to the unimaginatively named square, Plaza Almagro the neighborhood’s only plaza. Here kids giggle on the merry-go-round, old men are engrossed in games of chess on the checkered tables and carnival troupes practice their dancing or drum beats.

On Saturday mornings in the plaza there is a food/second-hand goods market and on Sundays there’s a book fair.

A centerpiece in the plaza plays monument to the Argentine flag and a headstone represents Vicente San Lorenzo, author of the tango song named after the barrio, a favorite of crooner Carlos Gardel.

Tango in Almagro

Tango-lovers can dance the night away at the bohemian milonga La Catedral, or head to Lo de Roberto for some cramped authentic warbling. Serious tango aficionados may want to check out the Fundación Casa de Tango, founded by Osvaldo Pugliese, for seminars, classes and shows.

Almagro Flower Market

Close to the main square along Acuña de Figeroa is the Almagro flower market, purported to be the largest in Latin America. Argentina is the third biggest consumer of flowers in the world and Almagro’s market moves 400,000 baskets of flowers per year.

The shops are open 24 hours just in case you really need a bunch of roses at four in the morning to apologize for some tango-related disaster.Rumors persist about the availability of illegal substances at the market, which helps to explain how it could be economically feasible to keep a flower stand open all night.

Murgas and Miscellaneous

Seasonal party-goers should take note that Almagro has one of the biggest corsos (parades) in the city during February’s carnival season. Head to Corrientes and Medrano to see murga groups dancing, singing and chanting and soak up the party atmosphere.

Though not really a tourist destination Almagro is also home to Latin America’s first library for the blind. Today the library offers an abundance of activities for the seeing-impaired and participates in the Buenos Aires’ largest yearly event, the Feria del Libro.

Another source of neighborhood pride is the famous and the very old school, Almagro Boxing Club. This is the seat of the Argentine Boxing Federation and is where world champion Pedro Decima trained.

Much of Almagro’s pride is wrapped up in the home team, the San Lorenzo soccer club, considered one of the city’s top five teams. The club is currently in a legal battle to try to reclaim their stadium in the area. They say they were forced to sell the stadium during the military dictatorship and are now demanding it back. The problem is there is now a large supermarket on their beloved ground. Club members can be seen protesting about this issue in the center of town.

Getting to Almagro

Subte: Take the B line till Medrano, or the A line until Castro Barros.

Buses: 2, 5, 7, 8, 19, 24, 26, 36,  56, 65, 71, 75, 84, 85, 86, 88, 92, 96, 99,  103, 104, 105, 109,  115, 124, 127 128, 132, 141, 151, 160, 165, 168, 180, 181

San Carlos Church & Basilica
Quintino Bocayuva 144

Plaza Almagro
Sarmiento & Juan Domingo Perón

La Catedral
Sarmiento 4006

Bar de Roberto
Bulnes 331

Fundación Casa de Tango
Guardia Vieja 4049
Tel: 4863-0463

Almagro Flower Market
Acuña de Figeroa y Sarmiento

Almagro Boxing Club
Diaz Vélez 4422

Almagro, an area which borders no less than eight other neighborhoods, is often overlooked by tourists. It therefore remains an unspoiled, authentic and appealing slice of middle-class porteño life. It is safer than San Telmo, less pretentious than Palermo, and centrally located.

Enjoying the sun in Plaza Almagro

Almagro is a high-density sector where everyone knows their neighbors. It’s chock-a-block with everyday specialist shops, grocers, butchers, hardware stores, toyshops and launderettes as well as a multitude of cafes and ice-cream parlors. While drab in spots, a huge flower markets on Acuña de Figeroa street gives the neighborhood a splash of color.

Here, gossiping neighbors catch up on corners, old ladies cluster round vegetable stalls to complain about the price of tomatoes and folks of all ages share the national drink mate in the main plaza, Plaza Almagro.

Nearby universities mean that Almagro is the barrio (area) of choice for many students. Catering to the student crowd are trendy bars and cafes, many of them clustered around the happening corner Guardia Vieja and Bulnes.

In recent years, new establishments have moved into Almagro, cemented the area’s reputation as one of Buenos Aires’ most liveable and up-and-coming barrios.

History of Almagro – Early Years

Almagro was once merely an extension of the San José de Flores neighborhood and was fertile, green and full of orchards and farm animals. Spaniard, Juan Maria Almagro y de la Torre bought 18 hectares of land in 1839, which was enough to get the area named after him. His family’s quinta, or country house was on the corner of Medrano y Rivadavía, where the historic cafe Las Violetas stands today.

He also donated the money to build Almagro’s first train station in 1857, which ran along the first railway line in Buenos Aires, inaugurated that very same year. This was crucial for the growth of the barrio and the train line ran for 30 years before it was closed. Later, a tramway run by horses on what is now the corner of Medrano and Corrientes, further increased connections with the rest of the capital.

The continuation of Medrano is the main street of Castro Barros, which was once one of the most important thoroughfares in Buenos Aires. The street was then referred to as ‘camino a los huseos’ (road of the bones) because carts that passed by coming from the slaughterhouses often left a trail of animal bones behind them. These days, this avenue is populated by buses and high-rise buildings and thankfully, any signs of animal remains are long gone.

Immigrant Arrivals and the Birth of Almagro’s Tango Scene

In 1870, Almagro’s land began to be sold off by the firm Rodríguez, Larrosa y Cía. As a yellow fever epidemic hit the center of Buenos Aires many of the upper class moved into their country houses in Almagro in an attempt to escape the fever. It worked, and many of these families are still in the neighborhood, generations later.

Another large wave of mostly Basque and Italian immigrants arrived in the area between 1895 and 1914. These groups lived in large conventillos (immigrant hotels), which soon became notorious for noisy late night scraps between residents before the neighborhood ceded to the middle class.

Along with the second wave of immigration to the neighborhood came tango. Buenos Aires favorite tango singer Carlos Gardel, who lived in neighboring Abasto, first sang to an audience in an Almagro bar — a fact many in the barrio will recount proudly. He also recorded a 1930 tango named after the neighborhood.

Although the tango legend was killed in a plane crash in 1935 his spirit lives on in Almagro. There are various milongas (tango halls) in the area and the Fundación Casa de Tango, a tango house on Guardia Vieja street was founded in 1967. The foundation promotes the role of tango in porteño life, and offers shows, classes and seminars.

The Arts in Almagro

Neighborhood pride: This is Almagro! —photos: Rosie Hilder

Almagro has long been bursting with creative types, aristocratic literari and political activists. The historic cafe Las Violetas is famed for the notable figures who used to gather here. Although more touristy today, the coffeehouse still holds a certain air of prestige, and its entirely possible that the next breakout novelist may be seen scribbling in the corner.

Almagro also has an abundance of small, independent theaters referred to as ‘teatro under’ or alternative theater. The small community playhouses here contrast starkly to the bright lights and big crowds of Corrientes, Buenos Aires’ mainstream theater district.

These theaters, music venues, cultural centers and bars means that wandering around the barrio it is easy to stumble upon crowds of people gathered in small spaces for live music, acting, poetry, photography or even stand-up comedy.

Cultural centers and schools in the neighborhood also offer courses in skills as diverse as clowning, Arabic dance or sculpture. —Rosie Hilder

→ Read more: Places of Interest in Almagro

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ArteBa is one of Latin America’s largest contemporary art fairs. Taking place over the course of five days, the annual Buenos Aires’ event attracts over 120,000 art junkies from across the planet and provides visitors the chance to hobnob with the Argentine elite, artists and celebrities.

Sponsored by The ArteBA Foundation and brought together with the help of a multitude of corporate sponsors and the Buenos Aires Culture Department, ArteBA provides visibility for established local artists and a platform for emerging artist to get their work noticed on the international level. The fair also aids in the acquisition of new works for some of Argentina’s top museums including MALBA.

The art fair takes place at the Palermo exhibition center, La Rural.

A piece by Pablo Zel in ArteBA 2012

Highlights for visitors include the ‘Barrio Joven’ section, designed to foster new talent in the Latin American art world and the U-TURN Project Rooms, a special exhibition area that brings together a variety of international galleries in an effort to put world class international art before the Latin American public.

Entrance to the art fair, which can be purchased online or at La Rural, includes a free audio guide.

Visitors can download the Spanish-only MP3 here or borrow a set of headphones at the fair. An Ipad application is also available through the foundation’s website, linked below.

Before making an important art purchase, visitors may want to read up on the legal steps necessary to export art from Argentina.

ArteBA 2012
May 18—22
La Rural
Avenida Sarmiento 2704
-Blue and green pavilions
Palermo
Tel: 4816-8704

• Hours: 1:00 p.m.—9:00 p.m.
• General Admission: $50
• Seniors and Students: $25
• Kids under 12 free

The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (MNBA) is the home to Argentina’s largest national fine art collection.

Situated along the greenery of Libertador Avenue in the ritzy neighborhood of Recoleta, the National Fine Arts Museum 1870’s façade alludes to the primarily 19th century European pieces found inside.

Bella Artes is one of Argentina’s oldest museums and in contrast to the more modern Latin American Art Museum, MNBA has a vast permanent collection. There are 688 major works and 12,000 minor works, mostly donated by private collectors. The pieces are displayed on two floors of labyrinth-like rooms with a total of 34 exhibition halls.

Best of all for visitors on a budget, admission to this world-class museum is free .

European and international art from the middle ages to the 20^th century make up much of the first floor with portrayals of female nudes splayed on grassy knolls and somber religious iconography. There are also pieces by Édouard Manet, Henri De Toulouse-Lautrec, Paul Cézanne, Vincent Van Gogh and Camille Pissarro, along with a room of Francisco De Goya.

A considerable amount of space is dedicated to decorative Spanish art and sculpture, revealing the genre’s popularity in Argentina at the end of the 19^th century.

 Argentine Arts and Temporary Exhibitions

The National Fine Arts Museum opened the contemporary Argentine art pavilion in 1980. Today MNBA houses the world’s largest collection of Argentine art with works by undervalued national artists such as Benito Quinquela Martín, Antonio Berni, Ernesto de la Cárcova, and Xul Solar.

Some of the museum highlights are Auguste Rodin’s sculpture, ‘The Kiss’; Pío Collivadino 1903 work, La Hora Del Almuerzo (The Lunch Break); Cárcova’s 1893 ‘Sin pan y sin trabajo’ (No Bread, No Work); and ‘Two Dancers in Red and Yellow’ by Degas.

Works by Jackson Pollack and three whimsical pieces by optical and kinetic artist, Martha Boto demonstrate the acquisitions department’s desire to round out their collection with an array of international contemporary works from recent decades.

The Buenos Aires Fine Art museum also offers something for the more anthropologically inclined. In the pre-Colombian arts room ornate decorations are found in everyday objects. Tucked away in a back room is a unique assortment of silver bombillas (straws for drinking the famous national drink, yerba mate). There is also a collection of peinetónes, elaborate decorative hair ornaments that were considered high fashion for women at the beginning of the 19^th century.

Upcoming temporary exhibitions include a panorama of Argentine cinematography with a focus on work produced between the 1950s to the ‘70s.

Art Library and Sculpture Garden

The Museo de Bella Artes also has an extensive fine arts library with 150,000 visual art magazines, journals, and books. Annexed alongside the galleries on the first floor, the public library overlooks the sculpture garden outside.

The library and the museum offer a wide range of classes, seminars, and workshops for the community, including an interactive tour for the blind and activities for kids.

A nifty gift shop can be found between the two floors, spiraling upwards with books on art and the city.

There is no on-site café but Modena Design, located behind the museum, allows visitors to gaze upon the contemporary sculpture garden while enjoying a post-museum coffee. — Alana Fichman

photos: Hernan Jourdan

Museo Nacional de Bella Artes
Libertador Avenue 1473
Recoleta

• Museum Hours
Tuesday-Friday: 12:30 pm to 8:30 pm
Saturday and Sunday: 9:30 am to 8:30 pm
-Closed Mondays & national holidays

•Library Hours
Tuesday-Friday: 12:30 pm-6:30 pm
Saturday: 10:30 am to 3:30 pm

• Admission: Free (except for temporary exhibitions)
• Digital audio tours are available in English and Spanish upon request

Ezequiel Martel
Air Force Reserve Officer/PR and Electronic Warfare Dept.
Age: 30
Lives: Palermo

Q: So, for people who aren’t familiar with your story we’ll rehash it. Your father, Capt. Rubén Martel was killed in the Malvinas-Falklands War in 1982 while serving in the Argentine Air Force. You were only ten months old.

Last year, on the Metro 95.1 radio program, Perros de La Calle (audio in Spanish), you talked for the first time to the British pilot, Nigel Ward, who shot down your father’s airplane. Since then you’ve maintained a friendly relationship with him.

At first, it is a bit surprising that you would have sought out Nigel Ward, or that you wanted to talk to him, how did that come about?

I first was interviewed on the program in early April of last year about the story of my father. When they discovered that I knew who had killed my father from seeing his photo in a book one time, they asked me if I wanted to talk to Nigel, if they could reach him. I said ‘Yes.’

So they arranged the on-air interview a few weeks later. I wanted to talk to him. It was opportunity to understand the details of what happened to my dad.

• Some have said that the shooting down of your father’s plane wasn’t honorable, or didn’t fall within the guidelines of war, because the Hercules plane your dad piloted didn’t have the capacity to save itself and had already suffered damage when Ward fired the cannons. What do you think about this now and how did you overcome that to talk to Ward?

It’s war, so air force, naval — all are susceptible. In this case my dad was on a reconnaissance mission and he was inside the area of war. They didn’t have any fallen soldiers on-board or anything, so it was fair game. My dad’s plane was a threat to the British soldiers since it was conducting a spy mission.

They criticized Nigel, because he threw one missile that injured the plane but then he threw the cannons and it was in this moment that my dad’s plane lost stability, inclined and started to fall in a spiral. Everyone died upon impact with the water.

Seven died in total and my father was the commander.

• But on the first interview with Perros de La Calle — before you spoke with Ward you mentioned that you had read his book, ‘Sea Harrier Over the Falklands: A Maverick at War.’ At that time you said it seemed unfair that his plane threw the cannons because your dad’s plane was already on fire, and those onboard might have had a chance to survive.

I was angry at the time — the kind of anger one would have in this situation, knowing that he left me without dad. But after talking with him, and hearing him explain the situation and ask for my forgiveness, I accepted it. He gave me his email address and we’ve remained in contact.

Since then he’s sent me a second copy of the book, Sea Harrier over the Falklands: The Black Death as a present.

The surprise was that in the dedication of the book he mentioned my dad, Rubén Martel. He also wrote that after 29 years he had the chance to meet me and that we stay in contact.

He also put four photos in the book: a wreath that he sent in honor of my dad with a dedication banner, a photo of my dad, a photo of me in front of the type of plane that my dad flew, and one of me in a flight suit in front of the memorial for my father in Palomar.

• How did your sisters and mother feel about you having a conversation with that British soldier who killed your dad?

They were fine with it. It was emotional. Most of all peace came from knowing that my dad died doing what he loved to do.

• The comments on the article about your story that came out in the daily newspaper, La Nación, were very diverse and interesting.

One of them reads, “It’s understood that they killed his father in the war. What is difficult to understand is why he would cultivate a relationship with the man who killed him. It’s an asymmetrical relationship with erroneous motives.”

 What do you think about that comment?

There are people that are still resentful about the war. They would have to walk a mile in my shoes to understand where the impulse came from.

They criticize me because I talked with the man who killed my father. What I always try to get across is: What would have happened if I had been in his place? What if I had to do something even worse, and then, in the future, the kids looked for me? I would have to respond. It was a war. It was what he had to do. It was his job.

Unfortunately, the warplanes and ships don’t pilot themselves — there are people at the helm of the craft. It helped me to receive the explanation from him that he was just following orders.

Today I could go to a bar and have a beer with him. What he did, he did because he was ordered to do so.

• Did you ever get in contact with the colleagues of your father? It seems like it would be more comforting to speak with people who knew him rather than the pilot who killed him.

The colleagues of my father weren’t concerned. They ignore the kids who lost their parents in the war. They discriminate. I have a connection to Nigel. Out of all the people, he was the one who wanted to know how I was doing and how my family was, when the others didn’t.

• Who are ‘the others’ in this case?  

The armed forces and the government. I’m one person who suffered, but there are many more like me.

• Do you plan to continue in the armed forces for your whole career?

I think I will stay in the force for a few more years and then I’m going to do something else. It’s been 11 years since I’ve served in the Air Force so far.

• How do you like working in the Argentine armed services? Is it a good career?

I‘m proud of being in the military. I am where my dad was.

The number one function is to protect the country. There are peace missions. Operationally speaking, we have a good relationship with England.

• You are also a pilot. Do you get to fly a lot for your job?

Yes, but a lot of what my job entails I’m not at liberty to talk about.

• Can you talk about the state of the Argentine Armed Forces today, compared to the ‘70s and ‘80s when the war was going on?

Compared with then we have declined a lot. There is a hatred of the military because of the ‘70s.

I was born in ‘81, so I have nothing to do with the military of the ‘70s. It’s common in this country — among Argentines — to generalize to the extreme.

• What is your opinion about the Malvinas-Falklands conflict today?

Personally, I feel this government is becoming very similar to that of ‘82. And that was a military government — now we have one that is democratic. Instead of being more humane about it, they are attacking the British. We need to respect each other.

I remember that time the president criticized Prince William when he was sent to the Malvinas. This was a perfect example of the government painting itself as the victim. The president said that he came in the uniform of a conquistador (conqueror), but it was the same bomber jacket that I wear to fly.

The president’s comments were out of line and lacking respect for the prince. He could one day be the person to decide that they are returning the Malvinas to Argentina – you never know.

• What do you think of the controversial new video that shows Argentine athletes training in the Malvinas, doing push ups on a British war memorial and that ends with the words, ‘To compete on English soil in the 2012 Olympics, we’re training on Argentine soil’?

Pathetic. The government says it doesn’t want to attack England but that is exactly what they are doing with this video.

• What do you think should happen with the Malvinas? What about auto-determination — the idea that the islanders should decide for themselves what they want to do?

I think understanding and respect is what is needed. Kelpers (as those from the Falkland Islands are called) complain about Argentina and I understand and respect this, but they shouldn’t forget that Argentina helped them before the war.

If the current government could lessen the tone of the propaganda, relations with them might be better.

 • How do you feel if you hear someone refer to the Malvinas as the Falklands? Most of the foreigners here learn that Falklands is a ‘bad word’ in Argentina.

It’s okay for the British to say it — to them it is the Falklands. I say Malvinas-Falklands. That’s better than saying Falkland-Malvinas.

• Can you explain how the situation is for veterans of the Malvinas? Not long ago they were engaging in protests on 9 de Julio. Are they treated justly?

There was never help for them. Everyone is talking about the Malvinas, but I don’t know exactly how much help they receive. For many people in the government it is in their favor to bring attention to the issue, to use it to try and leverage more power, but it’s all talk.

• So you don’t think the government would ever take military action again over the Malvinas?

No way, they don’t even have the capacity.

 • What do you believe is the government’s motive in using the Malvinas for political leverage, as you say, while not giving much attention to the children of dead soldiers or veterans?

Because the current government is anti-military. They are the victims and those of us in the armed services are the bad people. But I’m a service member and I have nothing to do with the generation of the junta (military rule).

 • What do you want to do with your life after you leave the Air Force?

I want to continue growing, as a citizen, a person, a human being. I would maybe like to enter into politics. I want to be at peace more than anything.

I would like to continue to bring attention to the Malvinas, for the kids who lost their parents. The soldiers who died were the parents of a lot of kids. It doesn’t reach the hearts of many people. The war was painful, but I’d like to ease the pain of the situation in order to go forward with a respect and caring that hasn’t yet arrived. I admire the U.S. because there is a lot of respect and love for their soldiers lost in war.

• Except for those who came home after the Vietnam War, as you probably know. Do you see a correlation between those soldiers and veterans of the Malvinas?

Yes, they are united in that.

• You clearly are not a fan of the president and current administration. Considering that, as an active member of the Air Force, what would you do if you were called to war? Perhaps for a cause you didn’t support?

I would go. I would defend my country and the flag. I wouldn’t go for her, but for my country.

• What is your relationship with Nigel Ward like today?

I ‘m really at peace now. I am enjoying the relationship with him.

We’ve shared things. His aviator call sign is ‘Sharkey.’ Mine is ‘Facha’ because they say I’m a fachero (good-looking) and also because there is an actor who has the same last name as me who is called Adrian ‘Facha’ Martel.

At one point on the radio program Nigel said to me, “Ezequiel is an officer and a gentleman.” That he said that to me bowled me over. It flipped a switch for me.

He said things that even the people here have never said. It comforted me. He left me without a dad, but he said that I’m an officer and a gentleman and it meant a lot.

• After the various comments that you’ve received including those in La Nación, what do you want people to know about your story, what would you like to add?

I am very happy that people demonstrated so much caring after the programs were aired. I want to thank the people that commented on the articles.

The story of Nigel and me can help to ease the drama over the conflict and the war to try and arrive at better communicate. Mine is only one little, tiny story related to the Malvinas, there are many more. The Malvinas War should have more of a place in the national discourse.

It was a huge battle. The air force lost planes. The navy lost important ships such as the General Belgrano.

From a place of humility my desire is that that the national discussion about it grows and doesn’t stay stagnant, like it is today.

The latest full moon of May 5, over the Buenos Aires neighborhood of San Telmo.

‘Super moons,’ or Perigee moons as scientists call them, take place an average once per year, when the moon is closest to the earth. On May 5, 2012 the moon was 15,300 miles closer to the earth than normal. As it was near the horizon it lined up with the earth and the sun, making it 14% fuller and 30% brighter than normal, according to NASA.

This full moon caused the highest tides of the year due to increased lunar gravity. Popular folklore maintains that full moons cause an increase in crime, deviant behavior and hospital admissions. Did anything crazy happen to you on Saturday night? Tell us about it on the Wander Argentina Facebook Page.

The Buenos Aires International Circus festival, hosted by the Buenos Aires Culture Department in conjunction with the French Embassy and Institute Français, is a 12-day extravaganza dedicated to avant-garde circus arts.

Acrobatics, trapeze, mime, adagio, aerial straps and physical theater shows take place in venues across the city with the big tops in Parque Patricios as the focal point.

2012 Buenos Aires Circus Festival

The festival’s fourth addition, taking place from May 3-12, will feature 51 events and 18 circus troupes, including nine international companies from as far away as Australia and Sweden.

Previous editions have welcomed more than 130,000 spectators. Special events cost AR$60 for plateau seating and AR$30 for general admission.

Free Events at Polo Circo

Every day of the festival from 12 p.m until 8 p.m at the Centro Municipal de Exposiciónes in Recoleta there is a free show entitled, Monstración (La Motte). The presentation is by Cirque Ici, headed by acclaimed French circus artist, Johann Le Guillerm.

Every night, one hour before the main event there will be a free open air performance by the Chilean trapeze troupe, Compañía de Paso at the Polo Circo tent in Parque Patricios.

From 10 p.m. the public can enjoy free live music at the ‘Bar del Circo’ in the same location.

Buenos Aires Polo Circo Festival
May 3-12
Buenos Aires

• Tickets to the Buenos Aires International Circus Festival on sale every day from 11 a.m. until 7 p.m. at the following locations:

Buenos Aires Polo Circo
Combate de los Pozos 1700
/Av. Juan de Garay 2051
Parque Patricios

La Casa de Cultura
Av. de Mayo 575 (downstairs)
Microcentro

Teatro 25 De Mayo
Av. Triunvirato 4444
Villa Urquiza

Centro Cultural San Martín (CCGSM)
Sarmiento 1554
Downtown

• Purchase tickets online or by phone (surcharges apply)

-Tuentrada.com
Tel: 5533 – 5533

Festival Polo Circo Event Venues

Buenos Aires Polo Circo
Combate de los Pozos 1700
Parque Patricios

Centro Municipal de Expocisiónes
Couture 2231
(Av. Figueroa Alcorta & Pueyrredon)
Recoleta

Teatro 25 de Mayo
Av. Triunvirato 4444
Villa Urquiza

Espacio Cultural Julián Centeya
Av. San Juan 3255
San Cristóbal

Centro Cultural Carlos Gardel
Olleros 3640
Chacarita

Centro Cultural Adán
Av. Asamblea 1200/ Av. Eva Perón 1400
San Cristóbal

Centro Cultural General San Martín
Sarmiento 1551
Downtown

Typical telo customers

The range of sex hotels runs from low-end, basic and frequented by prostitutes to full-blown luxury suites with two floors, a kitchen, garden and a pool table — there is a telo out there for everyone.

Ask any group of Argentines, and a deluge of telo stories about their ‘friends’ soon arise.

“I had a friend who was there with her boyfriend when they were teenagers. As they were leaving they bumped into the girl’s dad’s friend, with a woman who was not his wife. They exchanged a look — she, ‘don’t tell my dad’ and he, ‘don’t tell my wife,’ ” says Majo, a 29-year-old teacher who did not want to give her surname.

This story is typical of an embarrassing lobby encounter and highlights the two groups of main users — young people who live with their parents, and older married adults having affairs.

For many patrons, the telo is the only place they can get some privacy. “Many young people go to telos because they’ve got nowhere else to go. When I was younger I used to live with my parents, grandma and shared a room with my brother,” says Gustavo Guntren, 28.

“It’s bad enough having to explain who a girl is the next morning to your parents, but imagine having to introduce her to your grandma! There was just no way I could bring anyone back.”

Officially, those under 18 aren’t allowed in, in fact, the only time ID is required is to check the couple are of age. In practice, many teenagers have their first sexual experience in a telo and tend to be let in unchallenged.

The privacy of a telo also provides the perfect hideaway for cheating couples. Telos located downtown are those that tend to attract this type of regular. Suited-workers pop in for lunchtime quickies with their secret office-sweethearts.

Another group of users are faithful couples who have their own space yet choose to go to a telo to spice things up.

“It’s a way to get away from the daily routine. Some think that married couples don’t need to go because they can just have sex at home. But often with the children, and the problems of day to day life, it’s good to escape,”says Luis, 55, a married long-time telo patron.

As with regular hotels, frequent telo guests can collect vouchers, promotions and loyalty cards.

History of the Telo

Telos have been around in Argentina since the government officially closed whorehouses in 1937. It wasn’t until the 1960s that telos were formally classified alongside other ’normal’ hotels and got the name albergue transitorios.

At the time the establishments did not have the best reputation and were primarily used for those having affairs. Partly thanks to the 1963 film, ‘La Cigarra no es un bicho’ shot in famous ‘La Cigarra,’ telo, sex hotels have since hit the mainstream. In the 1970s middle class couples looking for a place to relight their relationship’s fire began turning to increasingly sophisticated telos.

Until 1997, telos were exclusively for male-female pairs. Today it is illegal for telos to refuse entry to same-sex couples. All couples — whatever their sex — must arrive and leave together, and it remains prohibited for more than two people to enter a telo room at once.

An Argentine experience?

Telo rooms often feature Jacuzzis photo: Jessie Akin

Telos are not unique to Argentina. Similar hotels can be found in Japan, Mexico and Brazil. For many Argentines, the concept of a telo is so normal, that they find it hard to believe that they don’t exist everywhere.

‘You don’t have them in Europe? What do you do?!’ asks Jimena Suarez a 27 year-old medical student upon discovering that this Argentine institution does not exist in Europe.

Overall, a rendezvous at a telo is as much an essential part of a trip to Argentina as a tango show with a glass of Malbec. After all, where else can a quick romp in a Jacuzzi be put down to cultural experience?

-Rosie Hilder

Five telo myths uncovered:

← continued from: Telos, an Argentine Institution

Legal, non-taboo and as much a part of Argentine daily life as the national drink mate, football and family barbecues, there are approximately 180 sex hotels in Argentina’s capital, boasting an estimated 5,000 rooms and 3 million yearly clients.

Commonly known by their lunfardo (slang) name telo —hotel backwards without the silent ‘h’ — telo rooms are rented by the turno, or turn. Turnos usually last three hours during the week and two hours during busy times such as Friday and Saturday nights. Late night guests can opt to stay the whole night and even get breakfast the next day.

Telo Rooms

photos: Jesse Akin

Couples can act out their fantasies in themed rooms such as, ‘Secrets of the Emperor,’ ‘Oriental’ or ‘Batman’s Cave’ and get it on in mock Roman chariots, strip clubs or even the gynecologist’s chair.

Jacuzzis, large mirrors on the ceiling, and porn channels on TV are common. The more features a room has, the more it will cost.

Most have a control panel allowing visitors to set the mood via lighting and music. The telo soundtrack is usually limited to cheesy ’80s hits or a romantic mix of Latin tunes but may be necessary to drown out the carnal screams and grunts coming from nearby rooms.

Room service is delivered through a two-door cabinet under or next to the door. Possible delivery options include drinks, snacks and sex toys — thankfully to buy, not to rent ­— and camcorders in case the porn channels inspire a home video. In all rooms, a complimentary condom lies waiting by the bed.

There have long been rumors about hidden cameras in bedrooms secretly filming the action, but these have never been proven and are likely telo myth.

Hygiene freaks shouldn’t be put off, rooms are normally meticulously clean, and always have a private bathroom with a ‘disinfected’ seal on the toilet seat. By law they should be ‘in a perfect state of hygiene.’ In general, the pricier the room, the cleaner it will be.

Entering a telo

To the untrained eye, telo entrances are difficult to spot. Officially, telos are called albergues transitorios, and they are obliged to display a sign advertising this name. Other dead giveaways are dim red lights, blacked out or mirrored windows and clandestine-looking entrances.

Legally, a telo must not be within 100 meters of a school or place of worship and has to have a minimum of 15 rooms.

Although it is usually possible to enter on foot, over 60% of telos have parking lots. Some even have cocheras privadas (private parking) where users can go directly from car to room to ensure maximum discretion. The entrance may be different from the exit; those on foot might enter via the garage and leave through a separate door a few meters away. The focus of the telo is on anonymity; no ID is required to enter.

At peak times, guests may literally have to wait their turn. By city law, there should be no common waiting area but on weekend evenings several couples are often clustered in the lobby, nervously trying to avoid eye contact and desperately hoping they won’t run into anyone they know.

→ continue reading: Telo History & Myths 

The words ‘Book Fair’ have the potential to conjure up images of elementary schoolyards with tables of used paperbacks underneath kitschy tents.

Whatever mental representation arises, it is completely deceptive when it comes to Buenos Aires ‘Feria International del Libro.’

This annual celebration of the literary universe and its purveyors is the Spanish-speaking world’s largest book fair.

Inside the 45,000 square meters of Palermo’s Argentine Rural Society unfolds a city of books with author signings, conferences, discussions and lectures.

The book fair has flourished since its founding in 1975 – today it hosts over 1.2 million visitors and 1,500 expositors from 50 countries.

Spanning three weeks every autumn, the event is sponsored by La Fundación el Libro (The Book Foundation), a non-profit founded by the Argentine Society of Writers.

 Cultural Events and Controversial Writers

Cultural events include a poetry festival, a storytelling marathon, an interactive area for youth, a day dedicated to flash fiction and an April 29th party with games and live shows.

Previous additions have hosted writers such as Paul Auster, Ray Bradbury, Tom Wolfe, Susan Sontag and Muhammad Yunus.

Argentina’s most renowned contemporary authors also attend. Before their deaths, visitors included Jorge Luis Borges, Ernesto Sabato, Silvina Bullrichand Tomás Eloy Martínez.

¨Without question, the most popular activity is the writers talks,¨ says press secretary Paola Lucantis. “This year Eduardo Galeano (Uruguay), Daniel Cassany (Spain), Sandra Cisneros (U.S.A, author of The House on Mango Street), David Grossman (Israel), Norman Manea (Romania/U.S.), Daniel Pennac (France) will come, among others.¨

In recent years, Buenos Aires largest cultural event has also inadvertently been the center of  some newsworthy incidents. In 2010 Cuban dissident, Hilda Molina was interrupted by pro-Castro activists chanting, “Cuba yes! Yankees no!” before she was able to make a presentation of her autobiography, Mi Verdad (My Truth). The police intervened and Molina quickly exited. A shouting match ensued and a member of the public took the microphone and told the protestors to “go to Cuba if they loved Castro so much.”

In 2011 a public outcry emerged when the anti-Kirchner Nobel prize winner, Mario Vargas Llosa was invited to inaugurate the fair. The controversy played out in the daily newspapers until President Fernández de Kirchner stepped in herself to ask her supporters to withdrawal their protests.

2012 Theme – ‘The Future of Books’

Each year the Feria del Libro has a unique theme. The 2012 theme, ‘The Future of Books’ features a new digital space where visitors can sample e-readers and purchase electronic books – a practice that is still unfamiliar to most Argentines.

The best time to visit in order to avoid the crowds is during the week. Toward the end of the festival visitors can get great deals on books from vendors who want to unload their stock before going back home.

The 2012 Feria del Libro, its 38th edition, will take place from the April 19 until May 7. The first three days of the festival are reserved for professional editors and writers; doors open to the general public on the 19th of April. —Alana Fichman

Feria International del Libro de Buenos Aires
Argentine Rural Society
Santa Fe 4201
or Sarmiento 2704 (parking)
Palermo

Hours:
◦ April 19 6:00 p.m. until 10:00
◦ Sun until Thur 2:00 p.m. until 10:00 p.m.
◦ Fri & Sat 2:00 p.m until 11:00 p.m.
◦ Sun, April 29, 2:00 p.m. until 1:00 a.m. (La Noche de la Ciudad)
◦ Mon April 30 2:00 p.m. until 11:00 p.m.

Tickets:
• Can be purchased at the venue
Mon-Thur – AR$20
Fri, Sat, Sun & Holidays –$AR26
Children under 12 free

Getting there:
Subway: Plaza Italia stop, line ‘D’
Buses: 10, 12, 15, 21, 29, 34, 36, 37, 39, 41, 55, 57, 59, 60, 67, 68, 93, 95, 111, 118, 160, 161, 188, 197